IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


126 


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I.I 


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ua.  120 


11.25 


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6" 


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HiotQgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporalion 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145«0 

(716)  •73-4503 


■^ 


/J 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notoa/Notoa  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chaekad  balow. 


D 


Colourad  covara/ 
Couvarturo  da  coulaur 


r~1   Covara  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagia 


□  Covara  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataurto  at/ou  pallicuMa 

□   Covar  titia  miaaing/ 
La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 


r~~|   Colourad  mapa/ 


D 
D 

n 


n 


Cartaa  gAographiquaa  mn  coulaur 

Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  Maua  ou  noira) 

Colourad  plataa  and/or  llluatrationa/ 
Planchaa  at/ou  illuatrationa  1%  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
RalM  avac  d'autraa  documanta 

Tight  binding  may  cnuaa  ahadowa  or  diatortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

Laroiiura  aarrte  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
diatoraion  la  kmg  da  la  marga  intAriaura 

Blank  laavaa  addad  during  raatoratlon  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  poaaibia.  thaaa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  qua  cartainaa  pagaa  Manchaa  ajoutiaa 
lora  d'una  raatauration  apparalaaant  dana  ia  taxta, 
mala,  ioraqua  cala  4tait  poaaibia,  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
paa  At*  filmAaa. 


Th< 
to 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilm*  la  maillaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  *t*  poaaibia  da  aa  procurer.  Laa  ditaiia 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  aont  paut<*tra  uniquaa  du 
point  da  vua  Wbliographiqua,  qui  pauvant  modif  iar 
una  imaga  raproduita,  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dana  ia  m*thoda  normala  da  filmaga 
aont  indiqu*a  cl-daaaoua. 


0 


D 
D 
D 
D 


Colourad  pagaa/ 
Pagaa  da  coulaur 


□  Pagaa  damagad/ 
Pagaa  andommagiaa 

□   Pagaa  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Pagaa  raatauriaa  at/ou  palliculiaa 

0   Pagaa  diacolourad.  stainad  or  foxad/ 
Pagaa  dteoloriaa,  tachatiaa  ou  piqu*aa 

Pagaa  datachad/ 
Pagaa  d*tach*aa 

Showthrough/ 
Tranaparanca 


rn   Pagaa  datachad/ 
FT]   Showthrough/ 


Quality  of  print  variaa/ 
Qualit*  {n*gaia  da  I'impraaaion 

Includaa  auppiamantary  matarial/ 
Comprand  du  matirial  auppl*mantaira 

Only  adition  ava;iabla/ 
Saula  Mition  diaponibki 

Pagaa  wholly  or  partially  obacurad  by  arrata 
alipa,  tiaauaa.  ate.  hava  baan  rafiimad  to 
anaura  tha  baat  poaaibia  imaga/ 
Laa  pagaa  totalamant  ou  partiallamant 
obacurciaa  par  un  fauillat  d'arrata.  una  palura, 
ate.  ont  *ti  filmAaa  i  nouvaau  da  fapon  k 
obtanir  la  maillaura  imaga  poaaibia. 


Th 
po 
of 
fill 


Or 

ba 
th( 
aic 

oti 
fir 
aic 
or 


Til 
ah 

Z 

m 

dV 

an 
ba 
rifl 

ra( 
m( 


r~7|   Additional  commanta:/ 

h/j    Commantairaa  tupplAmantairaa; 


Wrinkiad  pagM  may  filmad  tiightly  out  of  focus. 


Thia  itam  ia  filmad  at  tha  reduction  ratio  chaekad  balow/ 

Ca  document  eat  film*  au  taux  da  riduction  indiquA  ci*deaaoua. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


2SX 


aox 


y 

12X 


ItX 


2BX 


a4x 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  lMr«  has  bMn  raproducMl  thanks 
to  tho  gonoroaity  of: 


L'axamplaira  film4  f ut  raproduK  griea  A  la 
g«n4roait«  da: 


Library 

indian  and  NorthMm  Affain 

TIm  imagas  appearing  liara  ara  tha  iMat  quailty 
posaibia  conaidaring  tha  condition  and  iagibiiity 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  Icaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apacif icationa. 


Original  eop^aa  in  printad  papar  covara  ara  fUmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  iliuatratad  imprea- 
sion,  or  tha  back  cover  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  begmning  on  the 
first  pege  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, end  ending  on  the  laat  page  with  a  printed 
or  iliuatratad  Impression. 


The  lest  recorded  frame  on  eech  microfiche 
shell  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meening  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


BibHothkiua 

AfMrst  iiNHsnnaa  at  du  Nord 

Lee  Imegee  auhrantes  ont  4tA  reprodultes  evec  le 
plus  grend  soin,  compte  tenu  de  le  condition  et 
do  la  nettetA  de  rexemplaire  filmA,  et  en 
conformM  evec  lea  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Lee  exemplalres  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
pepler  eat  imprimto  aont  filmto  en  commen^nt 
par  la  premier  plet  et  en  terminent  soit  per  le 
demlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
dimpreeslon  ou  dlllustretlon,  soit  per  le  second 
plat,  saton  le  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exemplelres 
originaux  aont  filmto  en  commen9ant  par  ta 
premiere  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impreeelon  ou  d'iNustretlon  et  en  terminent  per 
ki  demlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suhrents  apparettre  sur  la 
darnlAre  imege  de  clieque  microfiche,  selon  le 
caa:  la  symbde  -^  signifle  "A  8UIVRE".  le 
symbols  ▼  sIgnHle  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  citerts,  etc.,  mey  be  filmed  et 
different  reduction  retios.  Those  too  lerge  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  comer,  left  to 
right  end  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framea  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrams  liluatrate  the 
method: 


Lea  cartes,  pienches.  tableeux,  etc..  peuvent  *tre 
fllmte  A  des  taux  de  rMuctlon  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reprodult  en  un  aaul  ciichA,  11  eat  filmA  A  partir 
de  I'engle  aupArleur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droKe, 
et  de  heut  en  bes.  en  prenent  le  nombre 
d'Images  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammes  sulvants 
lllustrent  ki  mAthode. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

\ 


C5 


-^A 


SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN 


AKD 


THE  ARCTIC  REGIONS: 


WITH   DETAILED 
NOTICES  OP  THE  EXPEDITIONS  IN  SEARCH  OF  THE  MISSING 

^  VESSELS   UNDER   SIR  JOHN   FRANKLIN. 

■at,  ♦ 


BY  P.  L.  SIMMONDS, 

MAMT  TEABS  EDITOB  OF  THE  COLONIAL  MAOAZINK,  BTO.  ETC. 


TO  WmOH  TS  -ADDED  AN  AOCOimT  OF  THE 

AMERICAN    EXPEDITION. 

T7NDEB  THE   FATR0XA6E  OF  .    ^ 

HENRY   GRINNELL,  ESQ., 

WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION   TO  THE   AMERICAN  EDITION, 

BY  JOHN  C.  LORD,  D.  D. 


Miserable  they 
¥rho  here  entangled  in  the  gathering  ioe, 
Take  Cheir  hurt  looli  of  the  descending  son. 


r 


CoWtEB. 


BUFFALO: 
GEO.    H.    DERBY   AND    00. 

1852. 


t- 


;•# 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  C!onj?res8,  in  the  year  1852,  by 
!      GEO.    H.  DERBY   AND  CO. 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Northern  Diatriol 

of  New  York.       >  . 


'li.. 


Btertat;pi>d  by 

B  E  A  D  L  K    A    FJ  K  t)  T  H  E  E, 

B  ('  F  F  A  L  O  . 


# 


•■        .,.,-#- 


TO 


f 

Diatdol 


aENRY  GRINNELL,  ESQ., 

THIS  PIBST  AMEBICAN  EDITION 

Of 

MB  JOHK    FBANFXIN  AND  THE  AROTIO  BEGIONS, 

IS  BESPECTFCLLT  DEDICATED 

BY   HIS 

HUMBLE  SEBVANTS, 

THE  PUBLISHERS. 


•J 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTICE 


The  explorations  of  the  Arctic  Regions,  made  during  the  last 
three  centuries,  ha\e  been  prompted  by  the  most  commendable 
spirit,  and  have  called  into  requisition,  and  strikingly  developed, 
traits  of  character  of  a  high  order.  The  Arctic  navigators  have 
usually  been  men  of  extreme  daring,  wonderful  perseverance 
and  sublime  fortitude ;  and  a  digest  of  their  heroic  toils  in  the 
path  of  geographical  discovery,  abounds  with  scientific  facts, 
and  examples  of  manly  courage  and  exalted  virtues,  potential 
in  their  nature,  and  highly  salutary  in  theu*  tendency. 

These  considerations  have  impressed  us  with  the  importance 
of  republishing  this  work.  But  as  the  English  edition  contain! 
but  slight  reference  to  American  enterprise  and  zeal  in  tht 
search  for  the  long  absent  ships,  under  the  command  of  Sh 
John  Franklin,  we  have  deemed  it  proper  to  add  an  account  of 
the  expedition  sent  out  under  the  patronage  of  Henry  Grinnell 
Esq.,  who  is  doing  more  than  any  other  man  in  our  country  to 
entitle  modern  merchants  to  the  appellation  given  to  those  of 
Tyre,  in  her  best  days — "the  honorable  of  the  earth."  The 
account  of  the  expedition  which  he  sent  out,  is  copied  from 
Lossing's  article,  in  Harper's  New  Monthly  Magazine.  The  other 
additional  matter  will,  we  trust,  be  found  pertinent,  entertaining, 
and  valuable.  The  work,  in  its  present  form,  must,  we  feel 
assured,  meet  the  approval  of  a  discriminating  public 


4 


r'jk; 


|V' 


/• 


.■•!^, 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  interest  aroused  both  in  this  country  and 
Europe,  in  regard  to  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
associates,  has  in  no  degree  diminished  by  the  fail- 
ure of  the  various  Exploring  Expeditions,  to  ascertain 
the  fate  of  the  great  navigator.  His  well  kiKiVv'n 
intrepidity,  his  great  experience  and  knowledge  of 
the  Arctic  regions,  the  abundant  supplies  with  which 
he  was  furnished,  the  various  casualties  which  may 
have  excluded  him  from  the  observation  of  subse- 
quent navigators,  and  above  all,  the  traces  which 
have  been  discovered  of  him,  have  kept  alive  hopes, 
which,  under  other  circumstances,  in  the  long  lapse 
of  time  would  .have  been  utterly  extinguished,     Th^ 


XIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


heroic  woman,  whose  devotion  to  her  gallant  hmband 
has  made  her  name  a  household  word  in  two  conti- 
nents, whose  appeals  in  his  behalf  have  touched  all 
hearts,  and  filled  all  eyes  with  tears,  whose  conduct 
has  added  another  illustration  of  conjugal  aifection, 
of  indomitable  perseverance  and  courage,  to  the  lonj; 
list  of  examples  of  woman's  faith  and  woman's  forti^ 
tude,  the  wife  of  the  lost  Franklin  still  hopes.  Sho 
cannot  believe  that  the  sea  has  swallowed  the  gallant 
company  under  the  guidance  of  her  husband,  or  that 
the  frosts  of  the  Pole  have  benumbed  their  energies; 
no  mounds  of  snow  and  ice  are  seen  by  her,  as 
marking  the  place  where  they  await  the  voice  of  the 
Archangel,  and  the  trump  of  God ;  before  the  vision 
of  her  mind,  the  frost-bound  voyagers  still  appear, 
watching  for  some  friendly  sail  in  the  open  channels 
of  the  frozen  seas,  still  husbanding  their  resources, 
etill  hoping  against  hope.  She  beholds  them  man- 
fully struggling  with  the  difficulties  of  their  position, 
seeking,  during  the  short  summer  of  the  high  latitudes, 
an  avenue  of  escape,  and  engaged  in  the  winter  in 
protecting  themselves  from  the  cold^  by  walls  of 
enow,  and  renewing  their  clothing  with  the  spoils 
of  the  shaggy  monarch  of  those  solitudes,  the  polai 
bear,   whose    capture  stimulates  their    energies  and 


INTRODUCTION. 


I 
XV 


invigorntcs  their  powers.  Wliile  such  a  hope  is  strong 
in  tlie  soul  of  this  noble  woman,  it  will  live  in  the 
hoa'-ts  of  all  Christendom  until  the  lost  are  restored 
to  homo  and  kindred,  or  their  graves  are  found,  and 
their  forms,  untouched  by  decay,  recognized  by  the 
hardy  mariners  who  brave  the  dangers  of  an  Arctic 
Sea.  Who  can  tell  if  this  lost  company  have  not 
broken  through  into  that  open  Ocean  which  is  said 
to  spread  out  beyond  the  barrier  of  ice,  and  found 
there  a  new  world  from  which  they  cannot  return  to 
relate  the  story  of  their  nuxrvelous  voyage?  Who 
knows  if  they  are  not  now  reposing  upon  some  island 
of  that  unknown  Sea,  wliere  a  modified  climate,  and 
a  fertile  soil  furnish  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  or 
are  vainly  coasting  tilong  that  wall  of  ice  through 
which  they  unexpectedly  entered,  and  from  which 
they  hope  to  escape  by  some  opening  like  that  in 
which  they  came  ?  Perhaps,  curiosity  overcoming  love 
of  home  and  kindred,  they  have  explored  or  are 
now  exploring  the  unknown  world  upon  which  they 
have  been  permitted  to  enter,  mapping  its  islands 
and  bays,  or  passing  on  to  the  pole  itselfj  full  of 
high  thoughts  of  the  undying  fame  that  will  reward 
their  toils,  when  the  story  of  their  return  and  their 
discoveries    shall    astonish  the  world,   as  when  the 


XVI 


INTBODUOTION. 


danng  Genoese  brought  back  to  Spain  and  Europ*. 
the  proofs  of  the  existence  of  the  continent  which 
should  have  borne  his  name. 

The  discovery  of  a  northwest  passage  to  the  Indies, 
was  the  first  object  of  the  daring  navigators  who 
explored  the  northern  seas  ;  the  pursuit  of  the  whale 
has  since  led  a  multitude  of  vessels  among  the  ice- 
bergs and  ice-fields  of  the  frozen  ocean.  Any  furthei 
expenditure  of  treasure,  or  hazard  of  life  for  th* 
former  purpose  is  uncalled  for  —  a  mere  waste  of  ma 
terial  and  a  tempting  of  providence.  Enough  is 
known  to  settle  the  question  that  any  passage  forced 
through  those  seas  to  Asia,  would  be  too  hazardous 
and  too  uncertain  to  render  it  of  the  least  com- 
mercial advantage.  The  path  to  China  marked  out 
by  nature,  or  rather  by  the  God  of  nature,  is  by  the 
isthmus  which  separates  North  and  South  America, 
and  all  ideas  of  an  available  northwest  passage  are 
simply  Utopian.  For  the  perfecting  of  the  geography 
of  the  earth,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  whether 
an  open  ocean,  and  a  modified  climate,  and  a  pro- 
ductive soil  are  to  be  found  beyond  the  fields  of  ice, 
may  be  worthy  the  efforts  of  civilized  nations,  yet  it 
might  be  questioned  whether  the  hardships  of  the 
navigation,  and    tlie    risk    of  life    in    those    remote 


INTKODUOTION. 


XVll 


Bolitndes,  would  not  justify  an  abandonment  of  a  re- 
gion guarded  by  such  awful  barriers,  which  could  only 
be  passed  occasionally  in  the  lapse  of  years.  If  it 
should  appear,  that  a  land  like  the  garden  of  Eden 
lay  beyond  the  domain  of  frost,  how  could  it  be 
made  practically  accessible,  or  used  for  the  benefit 
of  mankind  ?  Would  it  not  forever  remain  like  that 
hidden  city  in  the  desert,  which,  according  to  the 
eastern  fable,  is  concealed  from  all  passers  by,  and 
only  some  favored  traveler  is  perhaps  once  in  a 
century  permitted  to  gaze  upon  its  deserted  streets 
and  behold  its  towers  and  palaces;  or  like  the  lost 
A-tlantis,  would  it  not  be  discovered  only  to  disap 
pear  forever? 

For  the  rescue  of  the  long  lost  company  of  Sir 
fohn  Franklin,  or  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
heir  fate,  too  much  can  hardly  be  done.  In  such 
an  enterprise,  the  noblest  sympathies  of  our  nature 
cannot  fail  to  be  enlisted,  and  higher  and  more 
worthy  of  remembrance  than  the  conflict  of  arms,  or 
the  rivalry  of  the  nations  in  their  fabrics  at  the 
recent  great  fair  of  the  world  in  the  modem  Baby- 
lon, has  been  the  competition  between  England  and 
the  United  States,  in  the  voyages  of  discovery  for 
the  great  arctic  navigator,  and   his  companions.     In 


•  ft 

XVlll 


I N  T  K  O  D  U  0  T I O  N  . 


■I 


Uf 


such  a  contest  the  bonds  of  national  brotherhood  are 
strengthened,  the  friendship  of  the  two  great  branches 
of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  who,  descended  from  the 
same  ancestry  and  speaking  the  same  tongue,  have 
been  intrusted  by  the  divine  providence  with  the 
guardianship  of  civil  and  religious  freedom,  is 
cemented  and  made  to  soar  above  the  petty  rivalries, 
and  the  petty  provocations,  which  have  heretofore  so 
often  disturbed  the  good  understanding  which  ought 
ever  to  prevail  between  those  who  are  brethren  in 
blood,  who  have  a  common  ancestry,  a  common  lan- 
guage, and  a  common  faith.  Despotism  like  a  dark 
cloud  is  gathering  over  Europe ;  France,  after  numer- 
ous revolutions,  and  a  multitude  of  grandiloquent 
protestations  for  freedom,  has  tamely  yielded  to  a 
military  dictatorship  more  degrading  than  the  rule 
of  her  most  despotic  monarchs,  and  nothing  marks 
her  incapacity  for  liberty,  her  profound  social  cor- 
ruption and  the  utter  loss  even  of  the  heroic  element 
that  characterized  her  in  the  worst  days  of  the  Bour- 
bon dynasty,  than  the  character  of  the  man  who 
has  seized  the  reins  of  government.  The  shadow,  or 
rather  the  mockery  of  a  great  name,  with  no  repu- 
tation as  a  soldier,  with  no  ability  as  a  statesman, 
the  dissolute  and  degenerate  nephew  of  the  gre*t 


INTKODDCTION. 


XIX 


Warrior,  holds  France  under  a  rule  more  disgraceful 
to  her  than  that  of  Louis  XY.,  of  whose  vices  he  is 
an  apt  imitator.  Under  such  circumstances,  the  con- 
tinued friendship  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United 
States,  is  essential  to  the  highest  interests  of  our 
common  humanity.  Together  they  may  defy  the 
world  in  arms,  and  blockade  the  ports  of  all  the  des- 
potic powers  on  the  globe,  and  every  generous  con- 
cert of  action,  every  noble  rivalry  like  that  which  sent 
our  ships  in  search  for  the  lost  Franklin,  is  an  omen 
of  good  to  the  world,  and  a  pledge  that  despotism  is 
not  to  shroud  the  i^ations  in  darkness,  superstition, 
and  ignorance.  The  vast  conspiracy  which  is  now 
organizing  from  St.  Petersburg  to  Paris,  and  from 
the  Baltic  to  the  Caspian,  against  a  free  press,  free 
government  and  free  speech,  can  only  be  defeated 
by  the  constant  friendship  and  united  resistance  of 
the  Anglo-Saxon  race  on  both  continents. 

It  is  not  a  little  remarkable  that  the  American 
expedition  should  have  originated  in  private  benev- 
olence, and  that  to  the  enlightened  liberality  of  a 
single  individual,  the  country  owes  an  enterprise 
which  reflects  so  much  credit  upon  our  republic. 
We  read  in  the  Scriptures  of  ancient  nations  and 
cities    "  whose    merchants    were    princes : "    if   this 


KX 


INTBODUOTION. 


1^ 


expression  in  the  Bible  implies  what  it  does  in  mod 
em  parlance,  we  may  congratulate  ourselves  that  we 
possess  a  similar  description  of  citizens — merchants 
who  are  princes,  not  in  the  magnificence  which 
apes  the  pomp  of  royalty,  but  in  the  large  and 
liberal  spirit  that  exhibits  itself  in  acts  of  generosity 
and  munificence,  which  may  be  termed  princely  in 
respect  to  the  grandeur  of  their  conception,  and  th© 
efficiency  of  their  execution. 

The  true  genius  and  character  of  a  people  may  be 
tested  by  the  examples  of  individuals,  no  less  than 
by  their  institutions  and  laws.  The  illustrious  citi- 
zens of  the  ancient  republics  are  the  memorials  and 
proofs  of  their  national  greatness.  As  the  Eoman 
mother  said  of  her  children, "  these  are  my  jewels," 
BO  the  Commonwealth  may  say  of  her  distinguished 
eons,  for  they  are  the  glory  and  the  crown  of  the 
State.  The  name  of  Henry  Geinnell,  in  connection 
with  the  expedition  in  search  of  Franklin,  will 
survive  all  the  marble  and  granite  of  the  city  of 
his   residence.     He  might  say  with  truth  with  the 

Latin  Poet, 

"  Exegi  monumentum  sere  perennius." 

"Whatever  is  done  for  truth  or  for  humanity,  sur- 
vives in  the  remembrance  of  all  ages ;  the  star  of 


INTRODUCTION. 


XXI 


a  Howard  culminates  above  those  of  all  the  heroes 
and.  conqnerers  who  have  filled  the  earth  with  vio- 
lence, and  the  merchant  prince  who  sent  his  ships 
into  the  Arctic  Seas,  to  search  for  the  lost  of 
another  nation  and  people,  is  entitled  to  the  plau- 
dits of  his  country  and  his  race. 

!Nor  should  the  commander,  officers,  and  seamen 
jf  the  American  expedition  be  forgotten  by  the  gov- 
ernment, or  their  countrymen.  In  the  dangerous 
service  in  which  they  voluntarily  engaged,  they  ex- 
hibited the  courage  and  hardihood,  the  coolness  and 
forethought  which  have  characterized  the  brightest 
examples  in  our  naval  history.  The  narrative  of 
their  hazardous  voyage,  so  fer  as  it  has  been  made 
public,  reflects  the  highest  credit  upon  all  concerned, 
and  has  added  new  luster  to  the  annals  of  American 
seamanship. 

The  naval  service  is  the  right  arm  of  the  Republic; 
QO  power  on  earth  can  assail  us  while  the  ocean  is 
eovered  with  our  ships.  Great  Britain  came  out  of 
Ike  contest  with  Napoleon  and  the  continent  with 
safety  and  success,  only  because  she  acquired  and 
kept  the  dominion  of  the  sea ;  it  is  her  naval  supe- 
riority, which  now  delays  the  Autocrat  of  the  Korth 
in    his    contemplated    subjugation    of    Europe,    ais*J 


/CXU 


INTRODUCTION. 


prevents  his  immediate  occupation  of  Constantinople 
AS  the  seat  of  his  new  Empire.  Nor  is  it  merely  the 
number  of  men-of-war  which  are  kept  afloat,  that 
creates  the  naval  superiority  of  a  country,  but  that 
extensive  commerce  which  constitutes  a  nursery  of 
seamen,  whose  numbers,  knowledge,  and  courage 
may  be  made  available  in  the  hour  of  danger.  In 
no  respect  have  our  countrymen  so  uniformly  dis- 
tinguished themselves,  as  in  their  naval  exploits,  no- 
where have  they  been  so  successful,  as  on  the  ocean, 
and  the  safety  of  the  country  is  more  connected  with 
this  department  of  defense  than  any  other.  While 
such  men  as  Commander  De  Haven,  Griffith,  and 
such  crews  can  be  mustered  from  the  naval  service 
of  the  Uni*-ed  States,  our  shores  are  safe  from  foreign 
invasion,  and  our  country  from  all  assaults  save  those 
of  the  demon  of  domestic  discord  ;  if  we  perish,  it 
will  be  suicidally. 

While  every  christian  and  philanthropist  will  earn- 
estly desire  and  pray  for  the  day  when  men  shall 
learn  war  no  more,  when  "  the  sword  shall  be  beatei 
into  a  plowshare,  and  the  spear  into  a  pruning 
hook,"  it  is  the  height  of  folly  to  presume  that  anj 
such  period  »  at  hand  —  to  blind  our  eyes  to  the  evi- 
dent k>lp«>yv?  of  an  approaching  contest  which  is  to 


INTRODUOTIOxf. 


XXUl 


shake  the  earth,  and  from  which  we  can  only  escape 
scathless  by  a  position  and  a  force  which  will  com- 
pel respect  for  our  rights,  and  protect  our  neutrality, 
if  it  be  possible  to  maintain  this  position  in  a  con- 
test waged  for  the  destruction  of  civil  and  religious 
liberty.  The  narrative  of  the  American  expedition 
cannot  fail  to  enlist  the  sympathies  of  the  country 
more  earnestly  in  behalf  of  those    , 

"Whose  march  is  on  the  mountain  wav«> 
Whose  home  is  on  the  deep,"  i|p 

and    kindle    generous  emotions  in  all    hearts.    We 

hope    it    may   find    a    place    in  every  habitation 

throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  oor  extended 
country. 


^ 


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1 


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I 


THE  PROGRESS 


OP 


ARCTIC   DISCOVERY 


m  THE 


NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 


If  we  examine  a  map  of  Nortbern,  or  Arctic,  Amer- 
ica, showinfij  what  was  known  of  the  countries  around 
the  North  Pole  in  the  commencement  of  the  present 
century,  we  shall  find  that  all  within  the  Arctic  circle 
was  a  complete  blank.  Mr.  Hearne  had,  indeed,  seen 
the  Arctic  Sea  in  the  year  1771 ;  and  Mr.  Mackenzie  had 
traced  the  river  which  now  bears  his  name  to  its  juncf- 
tion  with  the  sea ;  but  not  a  single  line  of  the  coast 
from  ley  Cape  to  Baffin's  Bay  was  known.  The  east- 
ern and  western  shores  of  Greenland,  to  about  75°  lat- 
itude, were  tolerably  well  defined,  fl-om  the  visits  of 
whaling  vessels  ;  Iludson's  Bay  and  Strait  were  par- 
tially known ;  but  Baffin's  Bay,  according  to  the  state- 
ment of  Mr.  Baffin,  in  1616,  was  bounded  by  land  on 
the  west,  running  parallel  with  the  90th  meridian  of 
longitude,  or  across  what  is  now  known  to  us  as  Bar- 
row's Strait,  and  probably  this  relation  led  to  the  sub- 
sequently formed  hasty  opinion  of  Captain  Sir  John 
Ross,  as  to  his  visionary  Croker  Mountains,  of  which 
I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  hereafter. 

As  early  as  the  year  1527,  tlie  idea  of  a  passage  to 
the  East  Indies  by  the  North  Pole  was  suggested  by  a 


PROORK89   OP   ARCTIC   DISCOVKRT. 


Bristol  morchnnt  to  Henry  VIII.,  but  no  voyaj:fe  Reems 
to  have  been  undertaken  for  the  purpose  of  navijjfating 
the  Polar  seas,  till  the  conimenccmentof  the  following 
century,  when  an  expedition  was  fitted  out  at  the  ex- 
pense of  certain  mercnants  of  London.  To  this  attempt 
several  others  succeeded  at  diil'eront  periods,  and  all 
of  them  were  projected  and  carried  into  execution  by 
l)rivate  indivicluals.  The  adventurers  did  not  indeed 
accomplisli  the  object  they  exclusively  sought,  that  of 
reaching  India  by  a  nearer  route  than  doubling  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  but  though  they  failed  in  that 
respect,  the  fortitude,  perseverance,  and  skill  which 
they  manifested,  exhibited  the  most  irrefragable  proofa 
of  the  early  existence  of  that  superiority  in  naval  af- 
fairs, whicli  has  elevated  this  country  to  her  present 
eminence  among  the  nations  of  Europe. 

At  length,  after  the  lapse  of  above  a  century  and  a 
half,  this  interesting  question  became  an  object  of 
Koyal  patronage,  and  the  expedition  which  was  com- 
manded by  Captain  Phipps  (afterward  Lord  Mulgrave,) 
in  1773,  was  fitted  out  at  the  charge  of  Government. 
The  first  proposer  of  this  voyage  was  the  Hon.  Daines 
Barrington,  F.  R.  S.,  who,  with  indefatigable  assiduity, 
began  to  collect  every  fact  tending  to  establish  the 
practicability  of  circumnavigating  the  Pole,  and  as  ho 
accumulated  his  materials,  he  read  them  to  the  Royal 
Society,  who,  in  consequence  of  these  representations, 
made  that  application  to  Lord  Sandwich,  then  First 
Lord  of  the  Admiralty,  which  led  to  the  appointment 
of  this  first  official  voyage.  Captain  Phipps,  however, 
found  it  impossible  to  penetrate  the  wall  of  ice  which 
extended  for  many  degrees  between  the  latitude  of  80° 
and  31°,  to  the  north  of  Spitzbergen.  His  vessels  were 
the  Racehorse  and  Carcass ;  Captain  Lutwidge  being 
his  second  in  command,  in  the  latter  vessel,  and  hav- 
ing with  him,  then  a  mere  boy,  Nelson,  the  future 
hero  of  England. 

From  the  year  1648,  when  the  famous  Russian  navi- 
gator, Senor  Deshnew,  penetrated  from  the  river 
Kolyma  through  the  Polar  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the 


i 


INTKODUCTION. 


27 


# 


Hussians  have  boon  as  iirdnous  in  Um  ir  attompts  to  dis- 
cover a  northeast  passage  to  the  north  of  Cape  Shel- 
atskoi,  as  the  English  rave  been  to  sail  to  the  north- 
west of  the  American  contiiiont,  tlirough  Baffin's  Hay 
and  Lancaster  Sound.  On  the  side  of  the  racitic, 
many  efforts,  have,  within  the  last  century,  been  made 
to  further  this  object.  In  1741,  the  celebrated  Captain 
Behring  discovered  the  straits  which  bear  his  name,  as 
we  are  informed  by  Muller,  the  chronicler  of  llussian 
discoveries,  and  several  subsequent  commanders  of 
that  nation  seconded  his  endeavors  to  penetrate  from 
the  American  continent  to  the  northeast.  From  the 
period  when  Deshnew  sailed  on  his  expedition,  to  the 
year  1764:,  when  Admiral  Tchitschagot,  an  indefatiga- 
ble and  active  officer,  endeavored  to  force  a  passage 
round  Spitzbergen,  (which,  although  he  attempted  with 
a  resolution  and  skill  which  would  fall  to  the  lot  of 
few,  he  was  unable  to  eflfect,)  and  thence  to  the  present 
times,  including  the  arduous  efforts  of  Captain  killings 
and  Vancouver,  and  the  more  recent  one  of  M.  Von 
Wrangell,  the  Russians  have  been  untiring  in  their  at- 
tempts to  discover  a  passage  eastward,  to  the  north 
of  Cfape  Taimur  and  Cape  Shelatskoi.  And  certainly, 
if  skill,  perseverance,  and  courage,  could  have  opened 
this  passage,  it  would  have  been  accomplished. 

Soon  after  the  general  peace  of  Europe,  when  war's 
alarms  had  given  way  to  the  high  pursuits  of  science, 
the  government  recommenced  the  long-suspended 
work  of  prosecuting  discoveries  within  the  Arctic  f^ircle. 

An  expedition  was  dispatched  under  the  ci  amand 
of  Sir  John  Ross,  in  order  to  explore  the  scene  of  the 
former  labors  of  Frobisher  and  Baffin.  Still  haunted 
with  the  golden  dreams  of  a  northwest  passage,  which 
Barrington  and  Beaufoy  had  in  the  last  age  so  enthu- 
siastically advocated,  our  nautical  adventurers  by  no 
means  relinquished  the  long-cherished  chimera. 

It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  the  testimony  of 
Parry  and  Franklin  pass  for  much  on  the  other  side 
of  the  question.  Both  these  officers,  whose  researches 
in  the  cause  of  scientific  discovery  entitle  thenr  f  ©  very 


PE0GBBS8   OF  ARCTIO  DISCOVERT. 


high  respect,  have  declared  it  as  their  opinion  that 
such  a  passage  does  not  exist  to  the  north  of  the  76th 
degree  of  latitude. 

Captain  Parry,  in  the  concluding  remarks  of  his  first 
voyage,  (vol.  ii.  p.  241,)  says — *'  Of  the  existence  of  a 
northwest  passage  to  the  Pacific,  it  is  now  scarcely 
possible  to  doubt,  and  from  the  success  which  attended 
our  efforts  in  1819,  after  passing  through  Sir  James 
Lancaster's  Sound,  we  were  not  unreasonable  in  anti- 
cipating its  complete  accomplishment,"  &c.  And 
Franklin,  in  the  eleventh  chapter  of  his  work,  is  of  the 
same  opinion,  as  to  the  practicability  of  such  a  passage 

But  in  no  subsequent  attempt,  either  by  themselves 
or  others,  has  this  long  sought  desideratum  been  ac- 
complished ;  impediments  and  barriers  seem  as  thickly 
thrown  in  its  way  as  ever.* 

An  expedition  was  at  length  undertaken  for  the  sol© 
purpose  of  reachmg  the  North  Pole,  with  a  view  to 
the  ascertainment  of  philosophical  questions.  It  was 
planned  and  placed  under  the  command  of  Sir  Edward 
Parry,  and  here  first  the  elucidation  of  phenomena 
connected  with  this  imaginary  axis  of  our  planet 
formed  the  primary  object  of  investigation. 

My  space  and  purpose  in  this  work  will  not  permit 
me  to  go  into  detail  by  examining  what  Barrow  justly 
terms  "  those  brilliant  periods  of  early  English  enter- 
prise, so  conspicuously  displayed  in  every  quarter  of 
the  globe,  but  in  none,  probably,  to  greater  advantage 
than  in  those  bold  and  persevering  efforts  to  pierce 
through  frozen  seas,  in  their  little  slender  barks,  of  the 
most  miserable  description,  ill  provided  with  the  means 
either  of  comfort  or  safety,  without  charts  or  instru- 
ments, or  any  previous  knowledge  of  the  cold  and  in- 
hospitable region  through  which  they  had  to  force  and 
to  feel  their  way ;  their  vessels  oft  beset  amidst  end- 
less fields  of  ice,  and  threatened  to  be  overwhelmed 
with  instant  destruction  from  the  rapid  whirling  and 
bursting  of  those  huge  floating  masses,  known  by  the 


Colonial  Magazine,  vol.  xiii,  p.  340 


# 


mTEODUOTION. 


m 


name  of  icebergs.  Yet  so  powerfully  infused  into  the 
minds  of  Britons  was  the  spirit  of  enterprise,  that 
some  of  the  able  fc,  the  most  learned,  and  most  respect- 
able men  of  the  times,  not  only  lent  their  countenance 
and  support  to  expeditions  fitted  out  for  the  discovery 
of  new  lands,  but  strove  eagerly,  in  their  own  persons, 
to  share  in  the  glory  and  the  danger  of  every  daring 
adventure." 

To  the  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  F.  R.  S.,  for  so  long  a 
period  secretary  of  the  Admiralty,  and  who,  in  early 
life,  himself  visited  the  Spitzbergen  seas,  as  high  as 
the  80th  parallel,  we  are  mainly  indebted  for  the  ad- 
vocacy and  promotion  of  the  several  expeditions,  and 
the  investigations  and  inquiries  set  on  foot  in  the  pres- 
ent century,  and  to  the  voyages  which  have  been  hith- 
erto so  successfully  carried  out  as  regards  the  interests 
of  science  and  our  knowledge  of  the  Polar  regions. 

Although  it  is  absurd  to  impute  the  direct  responsi- 
bility for  these  expeditions  to  any  other  quarter  than 
the  several  administrations  during  which  they  were 
undertaken,  there  can  be  no  question  but  that  these 
enterprises  originated  in  Sir  John  Barrow's  able  and 
zealous  exhibition,  to  our  naval  authorities,  of  the 
several  facts  and  arguments  upon  which  they  might 
best  be  justified  and  prosecuted  as  national  objects. 
The  general  anxiety  now  prevailing  respecting  the  fate 
of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  gallant  companions, 
throws  at  this  moment  somewhat  of  a  gloom  on  the 
subject,  but  it  ought  to  be  remembered  that,  up  to  the 
present  period,  our  successive  Polar  voyages  have, 
without  exception,  given  occupation  to  the  energies 
and  gallantry  of  British  seamen,  and  have  extended 
the  realms  of  magnetic  and  general  science,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  lives  and  money  quite  insignificant,  compared 
with  the  ordinary  dangers  and  casualties  of  such  expe- 
ditions, and  that  it  must  be  a  very  narrow  spirit  and 
view  of  the  subject  which  can  raise  the  cry  of  ^''Cui 
hono^^''  and  counsel  us  to  relinquish  the  honor  and  peril 
of  such  enterprises  to  Russia  and  the  United  States  of 
America  I 


\ 


80 


PROGKESS  OF  AEOTIO  DISCOVERY. 


,,  / 


It  can  scarcely  be  deemed  out  of  place  to  give  here 
a  short  notice  of  the  literary  labors  of  this  excellent 
and  talented  man,  as  I  am  not  aware  that  such  an  out- 
line has  appeared  before. 

Sir  John  Barrow  was  one  of  the  chief  writers  for  the 
Quarterly  Review,  and  his  articles  in  that  journal 
amount  to  nearly  200  in  number,  forming,  v/hen  bound 
up,  twelve  separate  volumes.  All  those  relating  to 
the  Arctic  Expeditions,  &c.,  which  created  the  great- 
est interest  at  the  period  they  were  published,  were 
from  his  pen,  and  consist  chiefly  of  the  following  pa- 
pers, commencing  from  the  18th  volume ; — On  Polar 
ice ;  On  Behring's  Straits  and  the  Polar  Basin ;  On 
Ross's  Voyage  to  Baffin's  Bay  ;  On  Parry's  First  Yoy- 
age ;  Kotzebue's  Yoyage ;  Franklin's  First  Expedition ; 
Parry's  Second  and  Third  Voyages,  and  Attempt  to 
Reach  the  Pole ;  Franklin's  Second  Expedition ;  Lyon's 
Voyage  to  Repulse  Bay ;  Back's  Arctic  Land  Expe- 
dition, and  his  Yoyage  of  the  Terror.  Besides  these 
he  published  "  A  Chronological  History  of  Voyages 
to  the  Arctic  Seas,"  and  afterward  a  second  volume, 
"  On  the  Voyages  of  Discovery  and  Research  within 
the  Arctic  Regions." 

He  also  wrote  lives  of  Lord  Macartney,  2  vols.  4to ; 
of  Lord  Anson  and  Howe,  each  1  vol.  8vo ;  of  Peter 
the  Great;  and  an  Account  of  the  Mutiny  of  the 
Bounty,  (in  the  "  Family  Library ; ")  "  Travels  in 
Southern  Africa,"  2  vols,  4to ;  and  "  Travels  in 
China  aud  Cochin  China,"  each  1  vol.  4:to. 

In  the  "Encyclopedia  Britannica"  are  ten  or 
twelve  of  his  articles,  and  he  wrote  one  in  the  Edin- 
burgh Review  by  special  request. 

In  addition  to  the^e  Sir  John  Barrow  prepared  for 
the  press  innumerable  MSS.  of  travelers  in  all  parts 
of  the  globe,  the  study  of  geography  being  his  great 
delight,  as  is  evidenced  by  his  having  founded  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London,  which  now 
holds  so  high  and  influential  a  position  in  the  learned 
and  scientific  world,  and  has  advanced  so  materially 
the  progress  of  discovery  and  research  in  all  parts  of 


INTRODUOTION. 


91 


the  globe.  Lastly,  Sir  John  Barrow,  not  long  before 
his  death,  published  his  own  autobiography,  in  which 
he  records  the  labors,  the  toil,  and  adventure,  of  a  loi»g 
and  honorable  public  life. 

Sir  John  Barrow  has  described,  with  voluminous  caie 
and  minute  research,  the  arduous  services  of  all  the 
chief  Arctic  voyagers  by  sea  and  land,  and  to  his  vol 
ume  I  must  refer  those  who  wish  to  obtain  more  exten 
sive  details  and  particulars  of  the  voyages  of  preceding 
centuries.  He  has  also  graphically  set  forth,  to  use  his 
own  words,  "  their  several  characters  and  conduct,  so 
uniformly  displayed  in  their  unflinching  perseverance 
in  difficulties  of  no  ordinary  description,  their  patient 
endurance  of  extreme  suffering,  borne  without  mur- 
muring, and  with  an  equanimity  and  fortitude  of  mind 
under  the  most  appalling  distress,  rarely,  if  ever, 
equaled,  and  such  as  could  only  be  supported  by  a 
superior  degree  of  moral  courage  and  resignation  to 
the  Divine  will  —  displaying  virtues  like  those  of  no 
ordinary  caste,  and  such  as  will  not  fail  to  excite  the 
sympathy,  and  challenge  the  admiration  of  every  right- 
feeling  reader." 

Hakluyt,  in  his  "  Chronicle  of  Voyages,"  justly  ob- 
serves, that  we  should  use  much  care  in  preserving  the 
memories  of  the  worthy  acts  of  our  nation. 

The  different  sea  voyages  and  land  journeys  of  the 
present  century  toward  the  iNorth  Pole  have  redounded 
to  the  honor  of  our  country,  as  well  as  reflected  credit 
on  the  characters  and  reputation  of  the  officers  engaged 
in  them ;  and  it  is  to  these  I  confine  my  observations. 

The  progress  of  discovery  in  the  Arctic  regions  has 
been  slow  but  progressive,  and  much  still  within  the 
limits  of  practical  navigation  remains  yet  unexplored. 
As  Englishmen,  we  must  naturally  wish  that  discov- 
eries which  were  first  attempted  by  the  adventurous 
spirit  and  maritime  skill  of  our  countrymen,  should  be 
finally  achieved  by  the  same  means. 

"  Wil  it  not,"  says  the  worthy '  preacher,'  Hakluyt, 
"  in  all  posteritie  be  as  great  a  renown  vnto  our  En- 
glish natione,  to  have  beene  the  first  discouerers  of  a 


82 


raOGBESS  OF  ABOno  DBOOVEET. 


sea  bejond  the  Korth  Por^^  r 

WoreO  and  of  a  conueS'  ^''^"''  certainely  knowen 

Pire  o/  Russia  by  the  K  ^?f%^  ^°*<>  t^^e  hul  em 

a  sea  beyond  the  Cape  of  ^^^^'^^^^^^s,  to  have  found 

consequently  a  passag^e  by  seaTto  .^^P^"^^'  ^nd^so 

I  cordially  agree  tif  h  fll  J?*^  *^®  ^as*  Indies  ? " 

"neither  thJcolntry^t  the  n^avtf '^^  ?eyiew  that 

belieye  they  have  any  caufl^^-  '®'*'''''®  will  ever 

most  adreree,  will  Ions  rem  Jf  .""""S  elements  thi 
"Ho^''."^,??"'"'  "n'eS..'"""''S  *«  worthies? 

mysts,  tempestuous  w Lds    oiw^.:.  ""^  *»»«  %^ 
iayle  in  the  arre  •  r,J^,u^'  ^"'^  **'Mts.  snowe  f S 

Tritons  and  K eptune's  SZnn^A  ^^"J^^"'  when  the 
feare  to  behol/ such  monstTo^i^-'l."^'??  ^"1"  chilling 
themselves  with  terror  ?fthe[roU"*  ^^-d^,  rentinf 
aaynmg  otherwise  both  tVl       T°  ^assines,  and  dis 

eunne's\ottest  violence  mnst!^'  ""r^igntie  a°d  ?ht 
^atery  plaices  ^CrT &TZ^'^^'^"'^7<'' ^-^ tCt 
warre,  and  rushing  one  nnln  .    .^*  continual  civill 
and  waves  give  bafte"  „rf  °  ^o*""*"-.  make  windes 
others,  whilf  they  rent'  ZT")^  *"  ™°'  ^e  eaTes  of 
sphttin^^  their  co^d  tr^ s^^?^  ^^«'  crashing'and 

sphere cluste^reTJ^th l?„"dTSth'  f""^  ''°''''«™  iemi-        * 
^erve  to  accumulate  filed  icfto  a  '  T  ^'"'''' '""''^» 
ff  to  form  an  almost  imvtLtAf,^'^'?''^  «^'ent,  s» 
borean  frost—  "^penetrable  barrier  of  hyper 


m 


INTKODUCTION. 


88 


"  A  ct^stal  pavement  by  the  breath  of  Heaven 
Ceniented  firm." 

Although  there  are  now  no  new  continents  left  to 
discover,  our  intrepid  British  adventurers  are  but  too 
eager  to  achieve  the  bubble  reputation,  to  hand  down 
their  names  to  future  ages  for  patient  endurance,  zeal, 
and  enterprise,  by  explorations  of  the  hidden  mys- 
teries of — 

"  the  frigid  zone, 
Where,  for  relentleas  months,  continual  night 
Holds  o'er  the  glittering  waste  her  stai'iy  light ;  " 

by  undergoing  perils,  and  enduring  privations  and 
dangers  which  the  mind,  in  its  reiiective  moments, 
shudders  to  contemplate. 

It  is  fair  to  conjecture  that,  so  intense  is  the  cold, 
and  so  limited  the  summer,  and  consequently  so  short 
the  time  allowed  for  a  transit  within  the  Arctic  circle, 
from  Baffin's  Bay  to  Behring's  Straits,  that  a  passage, 
even  if  discovered,  will  never  be  of  any  use  as  a  chan- 
nel. It  is  not  likely  that  these  expeditions  would  ever 
have  been  persevered  in  with  so  much  obstinacy,  had 
the  prospects  now  opening  on  the  world  of  more  prac- 
ticable connections  with  the  East  been  known  forty 
years  ago.  Hereafter,  when  the  sacred  demands  of 
humanity  have  been  answered,  very  little  more  will 
be  heard  about  the  northwest  passage  to  Asia ;  which, 
if  ever  found,  must  be  always  hazardous  and  pro- 
tracted, when  a  short  and  quick  one  can  be  accom- 
plished by  railroads  through  America,  or  canals  across 
the  Isthmus. 

A  thorough  knowledge  of  the  relative  boundaries  of 
land  and  ocean  on  this  our  globe  has,  in  all  ages  and 
by  all  countries,  been  considered  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant desiderata,  and  one  of  the  chief  features  of 
popular  information. 

_  But  to  no  country  is  this  knowledge  of  such  prac- 
tical utility  and  of  such  essential  importance,  as  to  a 
maritime  nation  like  Great  Britain,  whose  mercantile 
marine  visits  every  port,  whose  insular  position  ren- 
ders her  completely  dependent  upon  distant  quarters 
2 


84 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


J  ' 


for  half  the  necessary  supplies,  whether  of  food  or  lux- 
ury, which  her  native  population  consume,  or  which 
the  arts  and  manufactures,  of  which  she  is  the  empo- 
rium, require. 

With  a  vast  and  yearly  increasing  dominion,  cover- 
ing almost  every  region  of  the  habitable  globe,  —  the 
chart  of  our  colonies  being  a  chart  of  the  world  in  out- 
line, for  we  sweep  the  globe  and  touch  every  shore,  — 
it  becomes  necessary  that  we  should  keep  pace  with 
the  progress  of  colonization,  by  enlarging,  wherever 
possible,  our  maritime  discoveries,  completing  and  veri- 
fying our  nautical  surveys,  improving  our  meteorologi- 
cal researches,  opening  up  new  and  speedier  perodical 
pathways  over  the  oceans  which  were  formerly  trav- 
ersed with  so  much  danger,  doubt,  and  difficulty,  and 
maintaining  our  superiority  as  the  greatest  of  maritime 
nations,  by  sustaining  that  high  and.  distinguished  rank 
for  naval  eminence  which  has  ever  attached  to  the 
British  name. 

The  arduous  achievements,  however,  of  our  nautical 
discoverers  have  seldom  been  appreciated  or  rewarded 
as  they  deserved.  "VVe  load  our  naval  and  military 
heroes  —  the  men  who  guard  our  wooden  walls  and 
successfully  fight  our  battles  —  with  titles  and  pen- 
sions ;  we  heap  upon  these,  and  deservedly  so,  princely 
remuneration  and  all  manner  of  distinctions ;  but  for 
the  heroes  whose  patient  toil  and  protracted  endurance 
far  surpass  the  turmoil  of  war,  who  peril  their  lives  in 
the  cause  of  science,  many  of  whom  fall  victims  to 
pestilential  climates,  famine,  and  the  host  of  dangers 
which  environ  the  voyager  and  traveler  in  unexplored 
lands  and  ur'mown  seas,  we  have  only  a  place  in  the 
niche  of  fame. 

What  honors  did  England,  as  a  maritime  nation,  con- 
fer on  Cook,  the  foremost  of  her  naval  heroes,  —  a  man 
whose  life  was  sacrificed  for  his  country  ?  His  wido'v 
had  an  annuity  of  200^.,  and  his  surviving  children 
251.  each  per  annum.  And  this  is  the  reward  paid  to 
the  most  eminent  of  our  naval  discoverers,  before 
whom  Cabot,  Drake,  Frobisher,  Magellan,  Anson,  and 


1 


INTHODUCTTON. 


ZB 


the  arctic  adventurers,  Hudson  and  Baffin,  —  although 
all  eminent  for  their  discoveries  and  the  important 
services  they  rendered  to  the  cause  of  nautical  sci- 
ence,—  sink  into  insignificance  !  If  we  glance  at  the 
results  of  Cook's  voyages  we  find  that  to  him  we  are 
indebted  for  the  innumerable  discoveries  of  islands  and 
colonies  planted  in  the  Pacific  ;  that  he  determined 
the  conformation,  and  surveyed  the  numerous  bays 
and  inlets,  of  New  Holland ;  established  the  geogra- 
phical position  of  the  northwestern  shores  of  America ; 
ascertained  the  trending  of  the  ice  and  frozen  shores  to 
the  north  of  Behring's  Straits  ;  approached  nearer  the 
South  Pole,  and  made  more  discoveries  in  the  Austra- 
lian regions,  than  >ill  the  navigators  who  had  preceded 
him.  On  the  very  shores  of  their  vast  empire,  at  the 
extremity  of  Kamtschatka,  his  active  genius  first 
taught  the  Russians  to  examine  the  devious  trendings 
of  the  lands  which  border  the  Frozen  Ocean,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Arctic  circle.  He  explored  both 
the  eastern  and  western  coasts  above  Behring's  Straits 
to  so  high  a  latitude  as  to  decide,  beyond  doubt,  the 
question  as  to  the  existence  of  a  passage  round  the  two 
continents.  He  showed  the  Russians  how  to  navigate 
the  dangerous  seas  between  the  old  and  the  new 
world ;  for,  as  Coxe  has  remarked,  "  before  his  time, 
every  thing  was  uncertain  and  confused,  and  though 
they  had  undoubtedly  reached  the  continent  of  Amer- 
ica, yet  they  had  not  ascertain  d  the  line  of  coast,  nor 
the  separation  or  vicinity  of  the  two  continents  of  Asia 
and  America."  Coxe,  certainly,  does  no  more  than 
justice  to  his  illustrious  countryman  when  he  adds, 
"  the  solution  of  this  important  problem  was  reserved 
for  our  great  navigator,  and  every  Englishman  must 
exult  that  the  discoveries  of  Cook  were  extended  fur- 
ther in  a  single  expedition,  and  at  the  distance  of  half 
the  globe,  than  the  Russians  accomplished  in  a  long 
series  of  years,  and  in  a  region  contiguous  to  their  own 
empire." 

Look  at  Weddell,  again,  a  private  trader  in  seal- 
skins, who,  in  a  frail  bark  of  160  tons,  made  important 


9 


\ 


8# 


PROOIIKSS    OF    ARCTIfl   DISCOVERY. 


mm 


discoverica  in  tlio  Antarctic  circle,  and  a  voyage  of 
ii^reatei*  length  and  ])ei'il,  throngh  a  thousand  miles  of 
ICO,  than  had  previourtly  been  performed  by  any  navi- 
gator, paving  the  way  for  the  more  expensively  litted 
expedition  imder  Sir  James  Ross.  Was  Woddell  re- 
munerated on  a  scale  commensurate  with  his  important 
services  ? 

Haifa  century  ago  the  celebrated  Bruce  of  Kinnaird, 
by  a  aeries  ot'  soundings  and  observations  taken  in  the 
lied  Sea,  now  the  great  highway  of  overland  eastern 
traffic,  rendered  its  navigation  more  secure  and  punc- 
tual. How  was  he  rewarded  by  the  then  existing  min- 
istry ? 

Take  a  more  recent  instance  in  the  indefatigable 
energy  of  Lieutenant  Waghoi'n,  R.  N.,  the  enterprising 
pioneer  q^  the  overland  route  to  India.  What  does  not 
the  commerce,  the  character,  the  reputation,  of  this 
country  owe  to  his  indefatigable  exertions,  in  bringing 
the  metropolis  into  closer  connection  with  our  vast  and 
important  Indian  empire  ?  And  what  was  the  reward 
he  received  for  the  sacrifices  he  made  of  time,  money, 
health  and  life  ?  A  ])altry  annuity  to  himself  of  lOOlJ., 
and  a  pension  to  his  widow  of  25/.  per  annum  I 

Is  it  creditable  to  us,  as  the  first  naval  power  of  the 
w^ld,  that  we  should  thus  dole  out  miserable  pittances, 
or  entirely  overlook  the  successful  patriotic  exertions 
and  scientific  enterprises  and  discoveries  of  private 
adventurers,  or  public  commanders? 

Tlie  attractions  of  a  summer  voyage  along  the  bays 
and  seas  where  the  sun  shines  for  four  months  at  a  time, 
exploring  the  bare  rocks  and  everlasting  ice,  with  no 
companion  but  the  white  bear  or  the  Arctic  fox,  m.ay 
be  all  very  romantic  at  a  distance ;  but  the  mere  thought 
of  a  winter  residence  there,  frozen  fiist  in  some  solid 
ocean,  with  snow  a  dozen  feet  deep,  the  thermometer 
ranging  from  40°  to  50°  below  zero,  and  not  a  glimpse 
of  the  blessed  sun  from  November  to  February,  is 
enough  to  give  a  chill  to  all  adventurous  notions.  But 
the  officers  and  men  engaged  in  the  searching  expedi- 
tions after  Sir  John  Franklin  have  calmlv  weighed  all 


i 


IKST  VOYAGE  OP   CAPTAIN   KOSS. 


T^    18  1 


tliese  difRculties,  and  boldly  gone  forth  to  enooimtor 
the  perils  and  danjjjera  of  these  icy  seas  for  the  sake  of 
their  noble  fellow-sailor,  whose  fate  has  been  so  long  a 
painful  mystery  to  the  world. 

It  has  been  truly  observed,  that  "  this  is  a  service 
for  which  all  officers,  however  brave  and  intelligent 
they  niay  be,  are  not  eqnally  qualified ;  it  requires  a 
peculiar  tact,  an  inquisitive  and  persevering  pursuit 
after  details  of  fact,  not  always  interesting,  a  C(|j|tempt 
of  danger,  and  an  enthusiasm  not  to  be  dampea  by 
ordinary  difficulties." 

The  records  which  I  shall  have  to  give  in  these  pages 
of  voyages  and  travels,  unparalleled  in  their  perils, 
their  duration,  and  the  protracted  suflxsrings  which 
many  of  them  entailed  on  the  adventurers,  will  bring 
out  in  bold  relief  the  prominent  characters  who  have 
figured  in  Arctic  Discovery,  and  whose  names  will 
descend  to  posterity,  emblazoned  on  the  scroll  of  fame, 
for  their  bravery,  their  patient  endurance,  their  skill, 
and,  above  all,  their  firm  trust  and  reliance  on  that 
Almighty  Being  who,  although  He  may  have  tried 
them  sorely,  has  never  utterly  forsaken  them. 


Capt.  John  Koss's  Voyage,  1818. 


f 


In  1818,  His  Eoyal  Highness  the  Prince  Regen'„ 
having  signified  his  pleasure  that  an  attempt  should 
be  made  to  find  a  passage  by  sea  between  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  Oceans,  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the 
Admiralty  were  pleased  to  fit  out  four  vessels  to  pro- 
ceed toward  the  North  Pole,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  John  Koss.  No  former  expedition  had  been 
fitted  out  on  so  extensive  a  scale,  or  so  completely 
equipped  in  every  respect  as  this  one.  The  circum- 
stance which  mainly  led  to  the  sending  out  of  these 
vessels,  was  the  open  character  of  the  bays  and  seaa 
in  those  regions,  it  having  been  observed  ifor  the  pre- 
vious three  yeavs  that  very  unusual  quantities  of  the 
\^olar  ice  had  fioated  down  into  the  Atlantic.     In  the 


38 


rUOORESS    OF  AlcOTIC   DISCOVElH. 


year  1817,  Sir  John  Barrow  relates  that  the  eastern 
coast  of  Greenland,  which  had  been  shut  up  with  ice 
for  four  centuries,  was  found  to  be  accessible  from  the 
70th  to  the  80th  degree  of  latitude,  and  the  interme- 
diate sea  between  it  and  Spitzbergen  was  so  entirely 
open  in  the  latter  parallel,  tliat  a  Hamburgh  ship  had 
actually  sailed  along  this  track. 

On  the  15th  of  January,  1818,  the  four  ships  were 
put  i^^omraission  —  the  Isabella,  385  tons,  and  the 
Alexll^er,  252  tons  —  under  Captain  Ross,  to  proceed 
up  the  middle  of  Davia'^festrait,  to  a  high  northern  lati- 
tude, and  then  to  stretch  across  to  the  westward,  in 
the  hope  of  being  able  to  pass  the  northern  extremity 
of  America,  and  reach  liehring's  Strait  by  that  rou'a . 
Those  destined  for  the  Polar  sea  were,  the  Dorothea, 
382  tons,  and  the  Trent,  249  tons,  which  were  ordered 
to  proceed  between  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen,  and 
seek  a  passage  through  an  open  Polar  sea,  if  such 
should  be  found  in  that  direction. 

I  shall  take  these  voyages  in  the  order  of  their  pub- 
lication, Ross  having  given  to  the  world  the  account 
of  his  voyage  shortly  after  his  return  in  lbl9 :  while 
the  narrative  of  the  voyage  of  the  Dorothea  and  Trent 
was  only  published  in  1843,  by  Captain  Beechey,  who 
served  as  Lieutenant  of  the  Trent,  during  the  voyage. 

The  following  were  the  officers,  &c.,  of  the  shipa 
Tinder  Captain  Ross :  — 

Tsabella. 

Captain  —  John  Ross. 

Lieutenant — W.  Robertson. 

Purser  —  W.  Thorn. 

Surgeon  —  John  Edwards. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  C.  J.  Beverley. 

Admiralty  Midshipmen  —  A.  M.  Skene  and  James 

Clark  Ross.  ■' 

Midshipman  and  Clerk  —  J.  Bushnan. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  B.  Lewis,  master;  T.  Wilcox, 

mate. 
Captain  (now  Colonel)  Sabine,  R.  A. 


r 


■  t 


~iL 


^•IRST   VOYAGE  OF  CAPTAIN    K08S; 


89 


and 


lames 


'n 


mg 


45  petty  officers,  seamen,  and  marines. 

Whole  compleraeut,  67.    -  "^ 

Alexander. 

Lieutenant    and    Commander  —  William    Edward 

Parry,  (now  Captain  Sir  Edward.)' 
Lieutenant — TI.  11.  Iloopner,  (a  first  rate  artist.) 
Purser  —  W.  IL  Hooper. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  J.  Allison,  master;  J.^hilips, 

mate.  ^ 

Admiralty  Midshipmen  —  P.  Bisson  and  J.Mus. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  A.  Fisher. 
Clerk  —  J.  liaise. 
28  petty  officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Whole  complement,  37. 

On  the  2d  of  May,  the  four  vessels  being  reported 
fit  for  sea,  rendezvoused  in  Brassa  Sound,  Shetland, 
and  the  two  expeditions  parted  company  on  the  foUow- 
day  for  their  respective  destinations.  ^*'^   >-^ 

On  the  26th,  the  Isabella  fell  in  with  the  :^t  ice^ 
berg,  which  appeared  to  be  about  forty  feet  high  and 
a  thousand  feet  long.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  imagine 
any  thing  more  exquisite  than  the  variety  of  tints  which 
these  icebergs  display  ;  by  night  as  well  as  by  day  they 
glitter  with  a  vividness  of  color  beyond  the  power  of 
art  to  represent.  While  the  white  portions  have  the 
brilliancy  of  silver,  their  colors  are  as  various  and 
splendid  as  those  of  the  rainbow;  their  ever-changing 
disposition  producing  effects  as  singular  as  they  are 
new  and  interesting  to  those  who  have  not  seen  them 
before. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  they  reached  Waygatt  Sound, 
beyond  Disco  Island,  where  they  found  forty-five 
whalers  detained  by  the  ice.  Waygatt  Island,  from 
observations  taken  on  shore,  was  found  to  be  6°  longi- 
tude an'd  30  miles  of  latitude  from  the  situation  as  laid 
down  in  the  Admiralty  Charts. 

They  were  not  able  to  get  away  from  here  till  the 
20th,  when  the  ice  began  to  bfeak.  By  cutting  p:  -^bages 


•i^^ 


P' 


i 


I 


■  ! 


10 


I'UOdUliSS   OF   AUOTIO    DISOOVKUl 


tlii'ougli  the  ice,  and  by  dint  of  towing  and  warping, 
a  blow  ])rogi'es8  was  niado  with  tiio  Hliii)^  until  tho 
ITtli  of  July,  when  two  ico-lloos  closing  in  upon  them, 
threatened  inevitable  destruction,  and  it  was  only  by 
the  greatest  exertions  that  they  hove  through  into  open 
water.  The  labors  of  warping,  towing,  and  tracking 
were  subseuuently  very  severe.  This  tracking,  al- 
though hard  work,  atfurdcd  groat  amusement  to  tho 
men,  giving  frequent  occasion  for  the  exercise  of  their 
wit,  'ViHen  some  of  the  men  occasionally  fell  in  through 
holes  covered  with  snow  or  weak  i)art8  of  the  ice. 

Very  high  mountains  of  land  and  ice  were  seen  to 
the  north  side  of  tho  bay,  which  ho  named  Melville'a 
Bay,  forming  an  impassable  barrier,  the  precipices 
next  the  sea  l)ein<'  from  1000  to  2000  feet  high. 

On  the  20th  of  June,  the  Esquimaux,  John  ISacheuse, 
who  had  accompanied  tho  expedition  from  England  as 
interpreter,  was  sent  on  shore  to  communicate  with 
the  natives.  About  a  dozen  came  off  to  visit  the  ship, 
and,  after  being  treated  with  coffee  and  biscuit  in  the 
cabin,  and  having  their  portraits  taken,  they  set  to 
dancing  Scotch  reels  on  the  deck  of  tho  Isabella  with 
the  sailors. 

Captain  Koss  gives  a  pleasant  description  of  this 
scene  — "  Saclieuse's  mirth  and  joy  exceeded  all 
bounds ;  and  with  a  good-humored  officiousness,  justi- 
fied by  the  important  distinction  which  his  superior 
knowledge  now  gave  him,  he  performed  tho  office  of 
master  of  the  ceremonies.  An  Esquimaux  M.  C.  to  a 
ball  on  the  deck  of  one  of  H.  M.  ships  in  the  icy  seas 
of  Greenland,  was  an  office  somewhat  new,  but  Nash 
himself  could  not  have  performed  his  functions  in  a 
manner  more  appropriate.  It  did  not  belong  even  to 
Nash  to  combine  in  his  own  person,  like  Jack,  the  dis- 
cordant qualifications  of  seaman,  interpreter,  draughts- 
man, and  master  of  ceremonies  to  a  ball,  with  those 
of  an  active  fisher  of  seals  and  a  hunter  of  white  bears. 
A  daughter  of  the  Danish  resident  (  d,  ii  Esquimaux 
woman,)  about  eip:hteen  yeais  of  au'e,  ai  <1  bv  far  the 
best  looking  of  the  half-caste  gr<>up,-<twas  the  object  of 


1' 


FIRST   VOYAOK   OF  CAPTAIN    RO-^S. 


41 


this 
all 
justi- 
3erior 
ce  of 

to  a 

seas 
JS'ash 

in  a 
en  to 
e  dis- 
ghts- 
tbose 
ears, 
laux 

the 
L-t  of 


Jack's  particular  attontlona;  wliich  bcinjij  ohscrved  by 
one  of  our  oHioors,  bo  gavo  bim  a  lady's  Hbawl,  orna- 
mented witii '  [»anglert,  an  an  oti'oring  for  bor  acceptanco. 
lie  prescnttul  it  in  a  most  respectiul,  and  not  ungrace- 
ful manner  to  the  damsel,  wbo  basbfully  took  a  pew- 
tor  nnff  from  her  finger  and  gave  it  to  bim  in  return, 
rewarJing  bim,  at  tbe  same  time,  with  an  eloquent 
smile,  which  could  leave  no  doubt  on  our  Esquinuiux's 
mind  that  he  had  made  an  impression  on  her  heart."'* 
On  the  5th  of  August  the  little  auks  (Mergulfus  alio,) 
were  exceedingly  abundant,  and  many  were  shot  for 
food,  as  was  also  a  large  gull,  two  feet  live  inches  in 
length,  which,  when  killed,  disgorged  one  of  these 
little  birds  entire. 

A  fortnight  later,  on  two  boats  being  sent  from  the 
Isabella  to  procure  as  many  of  these  birds  as  possible, 
for  the  purpose  of  ])roserving  them  in  ice,  they  re- 
turned at  midnight  with  a  boat-load  of  about  1500, 
having  on  an  average,  killed  fifteen  at  each  shot.  The 
boats  of  the  Alexander  were  nearly  as  successful. 
These  birds  were  afterward  served  daily  to  each  man, 
and,  among  other  ways  of  dressirig  them,  they  were 
found  to  make  excellent  soup  —  not  inferior  to  hare 
soup.  Not  loss  tlian  two  hundred  aaks  were  shot  on 
the  6th  of  August,  and  served  out  to  the  ships'  compa- 
nies, among  whose  victuals  they  proved  an  agreeable 
variety,  not  having  the  fishy  flavor  that  might  be  ex- 
pected from  their  food,  which  consists  of  Crustacea, 
small  fishes,  mollusca,  or  marine  vegetables. 

On  the  7th  of  August  the  ships  were  placed  in  a 
most  critical  situation'by  a  gale  of  wind.  The  Isabella 
was  lifted  by  the  pressure  of  ice  floes  on  each  side  of 
her,  and  it  was  doubted  whether  the  vessel  could  long 
withstand  the  grips  and  concussions  she  sustained; 
"  every  support  threatened  to  give  way,  the  beams  in 
the  hold  began  to  bend,  arid  the  iron  water- tanks 
settled  together.  The  two  vessels  were  thrown  with 
violent  concussion  against  each  other,  the  ice-anchors 

»     **"    •Vol.  T,  p.  07,68. 


ii 


jC 


■^ 


il  '•: 


42 


PKOGEESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


i  ■! 


'I 


1! 


and  cables  broke  one  after  the  other,  a  boat  at  the 
stern  was  smashed  in  the  collision,  and  the  masts 
were  hourly  expected  to  go  by  the  board ;  but  at  this 
juncture,  when  certain  destruction  was  momentarily 
looked  for,  by  the  merciful  interposition  of  Providence 
the  fields  of  ice  suddenly  opened  and  formed  a  clear 
passage  for  the  ships." 

A  singular  physical  feature  was  noticed  on  the  part 
of  the  coast  near  Cape  Dudley  Digges  : — "We  have 
discovered,  (says  Ross,)  that  the  snow  on  the  face  of 
the  cliffs  presents  an  appearance  both  novel  and  inter- 
esting, being  apparently  stained  or  covered  by  some 
substance  which  gave  it  a  deep  crimson  color.  This 
snow  was  penetrated  in  many  places  to  a  depth  of  ten 
or  twelve  feet  by  the  coloring  matter."  There  is  noth- 
ing new,  however,  according  to  Barrow,  in  the  discov- 
ery of  red  snow.  Pliny,  and  other  writers  of  his  time 
mention  it.  Saussure  found  it  in  various  parts  of  the 
Alps  ;  Martin  found  it  in  Spitzbergen,  and  no  doubt 
it  is  to  be  met  with  in  most  alpine  regions. 

In  the  course  of  this  tedious,  and  often  laborious 
progress  through  the  ice,  it  became  necessary  to  keep 
the  whole  of  the  crew  at  the  most  fatiguing  work,  Bome- 
times  for  several  days  and  nights  w^ithout  intermission. 
When  this  was  the  case,  an  extra  meal  was  served  to 
them  at  midnight,  generally  of  preserved  meat ;  and 
it  was  found  that  this  nourishment,  when  the  mind 
and  body  were  both  occupied,  and  the  sun  continually 
present,  rendered  them  capable  of  remaining  without 
sleep,  so  that  they  often  passed  three  days  in  this  man- 
ner without  any  visible  inconvenience,  returning  after 
a  meal  to  their  labor  on  the  ice  or  in  the  boats  quite 
refreshed,  and  continuing  at  it  without  a  murmur. 

After  making  hasty  and  very  cursory  examinations 
of  Smith's  and  Jones'  Sounds,  Ross  arrived,  on  the 
30th  of  August,  off"  the  extensive  inlet,  named  by  Baf- 
fin, Lancaster  Sound.  The  entrance  was  perfectly 
clear,  and  the  soundings  ranged  from  650  to  1000  fath- 
oms. I  shall  now  quote  Boss's  own  observations  on 
this  subject,  because  from  his  unfortunate  report  of  a 


FIRST   VOYAGE   OF   CAPTAIN   KOSS. 


43 


iission. 
•ved  to 

;   and 

mind 
inually 
'ithout 
IS  man- 
after 

quite 

r. 
lations 
m  the 
J  Baf- 
Tfectly 
fath- 
]ns  on 
It  of  a 


range  called  the  Croker  mountains,  stretching  across 
this  Strait,  has  resulted  much  of  the  ridicule  and  dis- 
credit which  has  attached  to  his  accounts,  and  clouded 
his  early  reputation  —  "  On  the  31st  (he  says)  we  dis- 
covered, for  the  first  time,  that  the  land  extended  from 
the  south  two-thirds  across  this  apparent  Strait ;  but 
the  fog  which  continually  occupied  that  quarter,  ob- 
scured its  real  figure.  During  the  day  much  interest 
was  excited  on  board  by  the  appearance  of  this  Strait. 
The  general  opinion,  however,  was,  that  it  was  only  an 
inlet.  The  land  was  partially  seen  extending  across  ; 
the  yellow  sky  was  perceptible.  At  a  little  before  four 
o'clock  / .  M.,  the  land  was  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the 
inlet  by  the  officers  of  the  watch,  but  before  I  got  on 
deck  a  space  of  about  seven  degrees  of  the  compass 
was  obscured  by  the  fog.  The  land  which  I  then  saw 
was  a  high  ridge  of  mountains  extending  directly  across 
the  bottom  of  the  inlet.  This  chain  appeared  extremely 
high  in  the  center.  Although  a  passage  in  this  direc- 
tion appeared  hopeless,  I  was  determined  to  explore  it 
completely.  I  therefore  continued  all  sail.  Mr.  Bev- 
erly, the  surgeon,  who  was  the  most  sanguine,  went  up 
to  the  crow's  nest,  and  at  twelve  reported  to  me  that 
before  it  became  thick  he  had  seen  the  land  across  the 
bay,  except  for  a  very  short  space. 

"At  three,  I  went  on  deck  ;  it  completely  cleared  for 
ten  minutes,  when  I  distinctly  saw  the  land  round  the 
bottom  of  the  bay,  forming  a  chain  of  mountains  con- 
nected with  those  which  extended  along  the  north  and 
bouth  side.  This  land  appeared  to  be  at  the  distance 
of  eight  leagues,  and  Mr.  J^ewis,  the  master,  and  James 
Ilaig,  leading  man,  being  sent  for,  they  took  its  bear- 


ings, which  were  inserted 


in  the  log. 


At  this  moment 


I  also  saw  a  continuity  of  ice  at  the  distance  of  seven 
miles,  extending  from  one  side  of  the  bay  to  the  other, 
between  the  nearest  cape  to  the  north,  wliich  I  named 
after  Sir  George  AVarrender,  and  that  to  the  south, 
which  was  named  after  Viscount  Castlereagh.  The 
mountains,  which  occupied  the  center,  in  a  north  and 


^^ 


m 


44 


niOGKESS    OP   AKCTIC   DISCOVP]KY. 


,  !.(' 


JH 


.    ' 


m 

m 


BOiith  direction,  were  named  Croker's  Mountains,  after 
the  Secretary  to  tlie  Admiralty."* 

They  next  proceeded  to  Possession  Bay,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  Strait,  where  a  great  many  animals  were 
observed.  Deer,  fox,  ermine,  bears,  and  hares,  were 
either  seen,  or  proved  to  be  in  abimdance  by  their 
tracks,  and  the  skeleton  of  a  whale  was  fomid  stranded 
about  500  yards  beyond  high-water-mark.  Finding,  a8 
Ross  supposed,  no  outlet  through  Lancaster  Strait,  the 
vessels  continued  their  progress  to  the  southward,  ex- 
ploring the  western  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay  to  Pond's 
Bay,  and  Booth's  Inlet,  discovering  the  trending  of  the 
land,  which  he  named  North  Galloway,  and  North 
Ayr  to  Cape  Adair,  and  Scott's  Bay. 

On  September  the  10th,  they  landed  on  an  island 
near  Cape  Eglington,  which  was  named  Agnes'  Monu- 
ment. A  flag-staff  and  a  bottle,  with  an  account  of 
their  proceedings  Avas  set  up.  The  remains  of  a  tem- 
porary habitation  of  some  of  the  Esquimaux  were  here 
observed,  with  a  fire-place,  part  of  a  human  skull,  a 
broken  stone  vessel,  some  bones  of  a  seal,  burnt  wood, 
part  of  a  sledge,  and  tracks  of  dogs,  &c. 

While  the  Ijoat  M-as  absent,  two  large  bears  swam  ofi:' 
to  the  ships,  wliich  were  at  the  distance  of  six  miles 
from  the  land.  They  reached  the  Alexander,  and  were 
immediately  attacked  by  the  boats  of  that  ship,  and 
killed.  One,  which  was  shot  though  the  head,  unfor- 
tunately sank  ;  the  other,  on  being  wounded,  attacked 
the  boats,  and  showed  considerable  play,  but  was  at 
length  secured  and  towed  to  the  Isabella  by  the  boats 
of  both  ships.  The  animal  weighed  1131  i  lbs.,  besides 
the  blood  it  had  lost,  which  was  estimated  at  30  lbs. 
more. 

On  the  following  day,  Lieut.  Parry  was  sent  on  shore 
to  examine  an  iceberg,  which  was  found  to  be  41fiO 
yards  long,  38G0  yards  l)road,  and  51  feet  high,  being 
aground  in  61  lathoms.  AVhen  they  had  ascended  to 
the  top,  which  was  perfectly  flat,  they  found  a  huge 

*  Vol.  I,  p.  Sil-lfi.  Svn.  Cd. 


I 


VOYAGE   OF   BUCIJAN   AND   FKANKLIN. 


45 


ns,  after 


the  di- 
als were 
es,  were 
by  their 
stranded 
iding,  as 
;rait,  the 
rard,  ex- 
•  Pond's 
ig  of  the 
d  North 

n  island 
3'  Monn- 
ioiint  of 
if  a  tem- 
Tre  here 
sknll,  a 
t  wood, 


L' 


warn  off 
X  miles 
nd  were 


iP^ 


and 


unfor- 
ttacked 
was  at 
le  boats 
oesides 
30  lbs. 

j\  shore 
)e  U(\9 
1,  hc'inij 
uled  to 
a  Inige 


white  bear  in  quiet  possession  of  the  mass,  who,  much 
to  their  raortiiication  and  astonishment,  plunged  with- 
out hesitation  into  the  sea  from  the  edge  of  the  preci- 
pice, which  was  fifty  feet  high. 

From  careful  observation  it  was  found  that  there  was 
no  such  land  in  the  center  of  Davis'  Strait  as  James' 
Island,  which  was  laid  down  in  most  of  the  charts. 
ISTothing  deserving  of  notice  occurred  in  the  subsequent 
course  of  the  vessels  past  (  ..pe  Walsingham  to  Cum- 
berland Strait. 

The  1st  of  October  having  arrived,  the  limit  to  which 
his  instructions  permitted  him  to  remain  out,  Eoss 
shaped  his  course  homeward,  and  after  encountering  a 
severe  gale  olf  Cape  Farewell,  arrived  in  Grimsby 
Roads  on  the  l-itli  of  iS'oveml^er.  As  respects  the  pur- 
pose of  Arctic  discovery,  this  voyage  may  be  considered 
almost  a  blank,  none  of  the  important  inlets  and  sounds 
of  Eattin's  Bay  having  been  explored,  and  all  that  was 
done  was  to  define  more  clearly  the  land-bounds  of 
Davis'  Strait  and  Baffin's  Bay,  if  we  except  the  valu- 
able magnetic  and  other  observations  made  by  Captain 
Sal)ine.  The  commander  of  the  expedition  was  pro- 
moted to  the  rank  of  captain  on  paying  off  the  ships  in 
December,  1818. 

The  account  of  his  voyage,  published  by  Capt.  Ross, 
is  of  the  most  meager  and  uninteresting  description, 
and  more  than  half  filled  with  dry  details  of  the  outfit, 
copies  of  his  instructions,  of  his  routine  letters  and 
orders  to  his  oflficers,  &c. 

BUCHAN   AND  FeANKIJN. 

Dorothea  and  Trent  to  Pole^  1818. 

In  conjunction  with  the  expedition  of  Captain  John 
Ross,  was  that  sent  out  to  the  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  and 
of  wdiich  Captain  Bcechy  has  published  a  most  inter- 
esting account,  embellished  M'ith  some  very  elegant 
illustrations  from  his  pencil.  The  charge  of  it  was 
given  to  Captain  D,  Buclian,  who  had,  a  few  years  pre- 
viously, conducted  a  very  interesting  expedition  into 


46 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


i  ' 


I:       'fl 


I! 


the  interior  of  K-^wfoundlaiid.  The  first  and  most  im- 
portant object  of  this  expedition  was  the  discovery  of 
a  passage  over  or  as  near  the  Pole,  as  might  be  possible, 
and  through  Behring's  Straits  into  the  Pacific.  But  it 
was  also  hoped  that  it  might  at  the  same  time  be  the 
means  of  improving  the  geography  and  hydrogra2)hy 
of  the  Arctic  regions,  of  which  so  little  was  at  that  time 
known,  and  contribute  to  the  advancement  of  sciesce 
and  natural  knowledge.  The  objects  to  which  attention 
was  specially  jDointed  in  the  Admiralty  instructions, 
were  the  variation  and  inclination  of  the  magnetic  nee- 
dle, the  intensity  of  the  magnetic  force,  and  how  far  it 
is  affected  by  atmospherical  electricity ;  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air,  tlie  dip  of  the  hoiizon,  refraction,  height 
of  the  tides,  set  and  velocity  of  the  currents,  def)tlis 
and  soundings  of  the  sea.  Collections  of  specimens  to 
illustrate  the  animal,  mineral  and  vegetable  kingdoms, 
were  also  directed  to  be  made. 
The  officers  and  crewapjDointed  to  these  vessels  were  : 

Dorothea,  382  tons. 

Captain  —  David  Buchan. 

Lieutenant  —  A.  Morell. 

Surgeon  —  John  Duke. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  W.  G.  Borland. 

Purser  —  John  Jermain. 

Astronomer — George  Fisher.        *, 

Admiralty  Mates  —  C.  Palmer  and  W.  J.  Dealy. 

Greenland  Pilots  —  P.  Bruce,  master  ;  G.  Crawfurd, 

mate. 
45  petty  officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  55. 

Trent,  249  tons. 

Lieutenant  and  Commander  —  John  Franklin. 

Lieutenant  —  Fred.  W.  Beechy,  (artist.) 

Purser  —  W.  Barrett. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  A.  Gilfillan. 

Admiralty  Mates — A.  Reid  and  George  Back. 

Greenland  Pilots  —  G.  Fife,  master  ;  G.  Kirby,  m,M>e. 

30  petty  officers  and  seamen. 

Total  complement,  38. 


f 


VOYAGE  OF  BUCIIAN  AND  FKANKLIN. 


47 


Having  been  iDroperly  fitted  for  the  service,  and  ta- 
ken on  board  two  years'  provisions,  the  ships  sailed  on 
the  25th  of  April.  The  Trent  had  hardly  got  clear  of 
the  river  before  she  sprang  a  leak,  and  was  detained  in 
the  port  of  Lerwick  nearly  a  fortnight  undergoing 
repairs. 

On  the  18th  of  May,  the  ships  encountered  a  severe 
gale,  and  under  even  storm  stay-sails  were  buried  gun- 
wale deep  in  the  waves.  On  the  24:th  they  sighted 
Cherie  Island,  situated  in  lat.  74°  33'  N.,  and  long.  17° 
40'  E.,  formerly  so  noted  for  its  fishery,  being  much 
frequented  by  walrusses,  and  for  many  years  the  Mus- 
covy Company  carried  on  a  lucrative  trade  by  sending 
ships  to  the  island  for  oil,  as  many  as  a  thousand  ani- 
mals being  often  captured  by  the  crew  of  a  single  ship 
in  the  course  of  six  or  seven  hours. 

The  progress  of  the  discovery  ships  through  the  small 
floes  and  huge  masses  of  ice  which  floated  in  succes- 
sion jjast,  was  slow,  and  these,  from  their  novelty,  were 
regarded  with  peculiar  attention  from  tlie  grotesque 
shapes  they  assumed  The  progress  of  a  vessel  through 
such  a  labyrinth  of  frozen  masses  is  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting sights  that  offer  in  the  Arctic  seas,  and  kept 
the  oflicers  and  crew  out  of  their  beds  till  a  late  hour 
watching  the  scene.  Capt.  Beechey,  the  grajDhic  nar- 
rator of  the  voyage,  thus  describes  the  general  impres- 
sion created  : — "  There  was  besides,  on  this  occasion, 
an  additional  motive  for  remaining  up;  very  few  of 
us  had  ever  seen  the  sun  at  midnight,  and  this  night 
happening  to  be  pat*ticularly  clear,  his  broad  red  disc, 
curiously  distorted  by  refraction,  and  sweeping  majes- 
tically along  the  northern  hoi'izon,  was  an  object  of  im- 
posing grandeur,  which  riveted  to  the  deck  some  of  our 
crew,  who  would  perhaps  have  beheld  with  indifl:crence 
the  less  imposing  effljct  of  the  icebergs;  or  it  miglit  have 
been  a  combination  of  both  these  phenomena  ;  for  it 
cannot  be  denied  that  the  novelty,  occasioned  by  the 
floating  masses,  was  materially  heightened  by  the  sin- 
gular effect  produced  by  the  very  low  altitude  at  which 
the  sun  cast  his  fiery  beams  over  the  icy  surface  of  the 


48 


PKOGKESS   OF   ARCTKJ   DI8C0VEEY. 


t1 


l!    J 


<m 


II 


sea.  Tlie  rays  were  too  oblique  to  illuiniiiate  more  tlian 
the  inequalities  of  the  iloe8,  and  falling  thus  partially 
on  the  grotesque  shapes,  either  really  assumed  by  the 
ice  or  distorted  by  the  unequal  refraction  of  the  atnios- 
l^here,  so  betrayed  the  imagination  that  it  required  no 
great  'exertion  of  fancy  to  trace  in  various  directions  ar- 
chitectural edifices,  grottos  and  caves  here  and  there 
glittering  as  if  witli  precious  metals.  So  generally,  in- 
deed, was  the  dece])tion  admitted,  that,  in  directin<' 
the  route  of  the  vessel  from  aloft,  we  for  awhile  deviated 
from  our  nautical  phraseology,  and  shaped  our  course 
for  a  church,  a  tower,  a  bridge,  or  some  similar  structure, 
instead  o*'  for  lumps  of  ice,  which  were  usually  desig- 
nated by  less  elegant  appellations." 

The  increasing  difficulties  of  this  ice  navigation  soon, 
however,  directed  their  attention  from  romance  to  the 
reality  of  tlieir  position,  the  perils  of  which  soon  be- 
came alarmingly  apparent. 

"  The  streams  of  ice,  between  which  we  at  first  pur- 
sued our  serpentine  course  with  comparative  ease,  grad- 
ually became  more  narrow,  and  at  length  so  impeded 
the  navigation,  that  it  became  necessary  to  run  the  ships 
against  some  of  these  imaginary  edifices,  in  orderto  turn 
them  aside.  Even  this  did  not  always  succeed,  as  some 
were  so  8ul)stantial  and  immoveable,  that  the  vessels 
glanced  off  to  the  oj^posite  bank  of  the  channel,  and 
then  became  for  a  time  embedded  in  the  ice.  Thus  cii'- 
cumstanced,  a  vessel  has  no  other  resource  than  that  of 
patiently  awaiting  the  change  of  position  in  the  ice,  of 
which  she  must  take  every  advantage,  or  she  will  settle 
bodily  to  leeward,  and  become  completely  entangled." 

On  the  2t)th  the  ships  sighted  the  southern  promon- 
tory of  Spitzbergen,  and  on  the  2Sth,  wliile  ]>lying  to 
windward  on  the  western  side,  were  overtaken  by  a 
violent  gale  at  southwest,  in  wln'ch  they  ])arted  com- 
pany. The  weather  was  very  severe.  ''The  snow  fell 
in  heavy  showers,  and  several  tons  M'^eight  of  ice  accu- 
mulated abouttlie  sides  of  the  brig,  (the  Trent,)  and  form 
ed  a  com])lete  casing  to  the  planks,  which  received  an 
additional  layer  at  each  plunge  of  the  vessel.  So  great 


M 


^T 


VOYAQS   OF   BCCIIAN   AND   FKAXKLIN. 


40 


lore  than 
pai'tiiilly 
d  by  tlie 
le  atiiios- 
uired  no 
^tions  ar- 
nd  there 
'rally,  in- 
lirectin^ 
deviated 
Lir  course 
trueture, 
ly  desi 


rr- 


ion  soon, 
ce  to  the 
soon  1)6- 

irst  pur- 
.se,  grad- 
impeded 
the  ships 
!r  to  turn 
as  some 
vessels 
iiel,  and 
'hns  cir- 
that  uf 
ice,  of 
1  settle 
ingled." 
)ron  ion- 
vino-  to 
1  by  a 
coni- 
low  fell 
e  accu- 
d  form 
ved  ac 
great 


d 


indeed,  was  the  accnmnlation  about  the  bows,  that  we 
were  (obliged  to  cut  it  away  repeatedly  with  axes  to  re- 
lievo the  bow-sprit  from  the  enormous  weight  that  was 
attaclied  to  it ;  and  the  ropes  were  so  thickly  covered 
witli  ice,  that  it  was  necessary  to  beat  them  with  largo 
sticks  to  keep  them  in  a  state  of  readiness  for  any  evo- 
lution that  might  be  rendered  necessary,  either  by  the 
appearance  of  ice  to  leeward,  or  by  a  change  of  wind." 
On  the  gale  abating,  Lieutenant  Franklin  found  him- 
self surrounded  by  the  main  body  of  ice  in  lat.  80°  !N., 
and  had  much  difficulty  in  extricating  the  vessel. — • 
Had  this  formidable  body  been  encountered  in  thick 
weather,  while  scudding  before  a  gale  of  wind,  there 
would  have  been  very  little  chance  of  saving  either  the 
vessels  or  the  crews.  The  Trent  fortunately  fell  in  with 
her  consort,  the  Dorothea,  previous  to  entering  the  ap- 
pointed rendezvous  at  Magdalena  Bay,  on  the  3d  of 
June.  This  commodious  inlet  being  the  first  port  they 
had  anchored  at  in  the  polar  regions,  possessed  many 
objects  to  engage  attention.  "What  particularly  struck 
them  was  the  brilliancy  of  the  atmosphere,  the  peace- 
ful novelty  of  the  scene,  and  the  grandeur  of  the  vari- 
ous objects  with  which  nature  has  stored  these  unfre- 
quented regions.  The  anchorage  is  formed  by  rugged 
mountains,  which  rise  precipitously  '•o  the  heiglit  of 
about  3000  feet.  Deep  valleys  and  glens  occur  between 
the  ranges,  the  greater  part  of  which  are  either  filled 
with  immense  beds  of  snow,  or  with  glaciers,  sloping 
from  the  summits  of  the  mountainous  margin  to  the 
very  edge  of  the  sea. 
^  The  bay  is  rendered  conspicuous  by  four  huge  gla- 
ciers, of  which  the  most  remarkable,  though  the  small- 
est in  size,  is  situated  200  feet  above  the  sea,  on  the 
slope  of  a  mountain.  From  its  peculiar  appearance 
this  glacier  has  been  termed  the  Hanging  Iceberg. 

Its  position  is  such  that  it  seems  as  if  a  very  small 
matter  would  detach  it  from  the  mountain,  and  precip- 
itate it  into  the  sea.  And,  indeed,  large  portions  of  its 
front  do  occasionally  break  away  and  fall  with  head- 
h>ng  impetuosity  upon  the  beach,  to  tlie  great  hazard 


60 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


1 


i\ 


of  any  boat  that  may  chance  to  be  near.  The*  largest 
of  these  glaciers  occupies  the  head  of  the  bay,  and, 
according  to  Captain  Beechey's  account,  extends  from 
two  to  three  miles  inland.  iS'umerous  large  rents  in  its 
upper  surface  have  caused  it  to  bear  a  resemblance  to 
the  ruts  left  by  a  wagon  ;  hence  it  was  named  by  tlie 
voyagers  tlie  "  Wagon  Way."  The  frontage  of  this  gla- 
cier presents  a  jierpendicular  surface  of  300  feet  in 
height,  by  7000  feet  in  length.     Mountain  masses — 

"  Wlinsc  blocks  of  sappliire  seem  to  morUil  eye 
Hewn  from  cerulean  quarries  in  the  sky, 
AVith  jLjlacier  battlements  that  crowd  the  spheres. 
The  slow  creation  of  six  thousand  years, 
Amidst  immensity  they  tower  sublime. 
Winter's  eternal  palace,  built  by  Time." 

At  the  head  of  the  bay  there  is  a  high  pyramidal 
mountain  of  granite,  termed  liotge  Hill,  from  the  myr- 
iads of  small  Ijirds  of  that  name  which  frequent  its 
base,  and  appear  to  prefer  its  environs  to  every  other 

{)art  of  the  harbor.  "  They  are  so  numerous  that  we 
lave  freq  uently  seen  an  uninterrupted  line  of  them  ex- 
tending fidl  half  way  over  the  bay,  or  to  a  distance  of 
more  than  three  miles,  and  so  close  together  tliat  thirty 
have  fallen  at  one  sliot.  This  living  column,  on  an  aver- 
age, might  have  been  about  six  yards  broad,  and  as 
many  deep  ;  so  that,  allowing  sixteen  birds  to  a  cubic 
yard,  there  must  have  been  nearly  four  millions  of  birds 
on  the  wing  at  one  time.  The  number  I  have  given  cer- 
tainly seems  large  ;  yet  when  it  is  told  that  the  little 
rotges  rise  in  such  numbers  as  completely  to  darken 
the  air,  and  that  their  chorus  is  distinctly  audible  at  a 
distance  of  four  miles,  the  estimate  will  not  be  thought 
to  bear  any  reduction." 

One  of  their  eai-liost  excursions  in  this  bay  w^as  an 
attempt  to  ascend  the  peak  of  Rotge  Hill, "upon  which," 
says  Captain  Beechey,  "  may  now,  perhaps,  be  seen  at 
the  height  of  about  2000  feet,  a  staff  that  once  carried 
a  red  flag,  which  was  planted  there  to  mark  the  gi-eat- 
est  height  we  were  able  to  attain,  partly  in  consequence 
of  the  steepness  of  the  ascent,  but  mainly  on  account 
of  the  detached  masses  of  rock  which  a  very  slight 


cSfe 


VOYAGE  OF  BUCIIAN  AND  FKANKLIN. 


61 


je"  largest 
Lay,  aud, 
ends  from 
•eiits  in  its 
djlanco  to 
ed  b}^  tlie 
)t'  tliis  gla- 
»0  feet  in 
asses — 


s, 


pyramidal 
1  the  myr- 
:.'quent  its 
vevy  other 
s  that  we 
:'  them  ex- 
istance  of 
liat  thirty 
[1  an  aver- 
d,  and  as 
to  a  cu])ic 
IS  of  birds 
given  cer- 

the  little 
;o  darken 
dible  at  a 

e  thought 

ly  was  an 
n  which," 
)e  seen  at 
'0  carried 
he  great- 
sequence 
account 
ry  slight 


matter  would  displace  and  '  A  down  the  precipitous 
declivity,  to  the  utter  destruction  of  him  who  depended 
upon  their  support,  or  who  might  happen  to  be  in 
their  path  below.  Tiie  latter  part  of  our  ascent  was, 
indeed,  much  against  our  inclination  ;  but  we  found  it 
impossible  to  descend  ])y  the  way  we  had  come  up,  and 
were  compelled  to  gain  a  ledge,  which  promised  the 
only  secure  resting-place  we  could  iind  at  that  height. 
Tliis  we  were  al)le  to  effect  by  sticking  the  tomahawdcs 
with  which  we  were  provided,  into  crevices  in  the  rock, 
as  a  support  for  our  feet ;  and  some  of  these  instru- 
ments we  were  obliged  to  leave  where  they  were  driven, 
in  consequence  of  the  danger  that  attended  their 
recovery."  During  the  vessel's  detention  in  this  har- 
bor, the  l)ay  and  anchorage  were  completely  surveyed. 

When  the  first  party  rowed  into  this  bay,  it  was  in 
quiet  possession  of  herds  of  walruses,  who  were  so  un- 
accustomed to  the  sight  of  a  boat  that  they  assembled 
about  her,  apparently  higlily  incensed  at  the  intrusion, 
and  swam  toward  her  as  though  they  would  have  torn 
the  planks  asunder  with  their  tusks.  Their  hides  were 
80  tough  that  nothing  but  a  bayonet  would  pierce  them. 
The  wounds  that  were  inflicted  only  served  to  increase 
their  rage,  and  it  was  witli  much  difficiilty  they  were 
kept  off  with  fire-arms.  Subsequently  the  boats  went 
better  prepared  and  more  strongly  supported,  and 
many  of  these  monsters  were  killed  ;  some  were  four- 
teen feet  in  length,  and  nine  feet  girth,  and  of  such 
prodigious  weight,  that  the  boat's  crew  could  scarcely 
turn  them. 

The  ships  had  not  been  many  days  at  their  anchor- 
age when  they  were  truly  astonished  at  tlie  sight  of  a 
strange  boat  pulling  toward  the  ships,  which  was  found 
to  belong  to  some  Eussian  adventurers,  who  were  en- 
gaged in  the  collection  of  peltry  and  morse' teeth.  This 
is  the  last  remaining  establishment  at  Spitzbergen  still 
upheld  by  the  merchants  of  Archangel. 

Although  equally  surprised  at  the  sight  of  the  ves- 
sels, the  boat's  crew  took  courage,  and  after  a  careful 
Bcrutiny,  went  on  board  the  Dorothea;  Captain  Buchan 


53 


rK0ORi:fi3   OF   AUCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


,■ :     I  ; 


*  I 


1! 


gave  tliein  a  kind  reception,  and  siippllotl  tliem  wit]\ 
whatever  tliey  wanted ;  in  return  for  wlilcli  tliej  sent 
on  board,  the  followint^  day,  a  side  of  venison  in  excel- 
lent condition.  Wishing  to  gain  some  furtlier  informa- 
tion of  these  people,  an  olHcer  accompanied  them  to 
their  dwelling  at  the  head  of  a  small  cove,  aljout  four 
miles  distant  from  the  bay,  where  he  found  a  comfort- 
able wooden  hut,  well  lined  with  moss,  and  stored  with 
venison,  wild  ducks,  etc. 

It  is  related  by  Captain  Beechey  that  it  was  with  ex- 
treme pleasure  they  noticed  in  this  retired  spot,  proba- 
bly the  most  noi*thern  and  most  desolate  habitation  of 
our  globe,  a  spirit  of  gratitude  and  devotion  to  the  Al- 
migiity  rarely  exercised  in  civilized  countries.  "  On 
landing  from  the  boat  and  approaching  their  residence, 
these  people  knelt  upon  its  threshold,  and  olfered  up  a 
prayer  with  fervor  and  evident  sincerity.  The  exatu 
nature  of  the  prayer  we  did  not  learn,  but  it  was  no 
doubt  one  of  thanksgiving,  and  we  concluded  it  was  a 
custom  which  these  recluses  were  in  the  habit  of  observ- 
ing on  their  safe  return  to  their  habitation.  It  mav,  at 
alfevents,  be  regarded  as  an  instance  of  the  beneficial 
effects  which  seclusion  from  the  busy  world,  and  a  con- 
tem]ilation  of  the  works  of  nature,  almost  invariably 
produce  upon  the  hearts  of  even  the  most  uneducated 
part  of  mankind." 

On  the  7th  of  June  the  expedition  left  the  anchorage 
to  renew  the  examination  of  the  ice,  and  after  steering 
a  few  leagues  to  the  northward,  found  it  precisely  in 
the  same  state  as  it  had  been  left  on  the  2d.  In  sj^ite 
of  all  their  endeavors,  by  towing  and  otherwise,  the 
vessels  were  driven  in  a  calm  by  the  lieavy  swell  into 
the  packed  ice,  and  the  increasing  peril  of  their  situa- 
tion may  be  imagined  from  the  following  graphic  de- 
scription :  — 

"  The  pieces  at  the  edge  of  the  pack  were  at  one  time 
whollv  immersed  in  the  sea,  and  at  the  next  raised  far 
above  their  natural  line  of  tlotation,  while  those  further 
in,  being  more  extensive,  were  alternately  depressed  or 


■:%i. 


VOYAOli   OF  JIUCHAN   AN])  FRANKLIN. 


08 


liom  with 
tliej  sent 
[  ill  exfei- 
•  iiitbrma- 
tliom  to 
iljout  four 
I  eointbi*t- 
ored  with 

s  with  cx- 
lot,  proT)a- 
itation  of 
to  tlie  Al- 
es. "  On 
residence, 
ered  up  a 
Ihe  exacu 
it  was  no 
I  it  was  a 
of  observ- 
[t  may,  at 
beneficial 
lid  a  con- 
iiivariabiy 
lieducated 

mchorage 

steering 

jcisely  in 

In  sj^ito 

J-wise,  the 

Iwell  into 

leir  situa- 

Lphic  de- 

onotime 
pised  far 
|c  further 

[•essed  or 


elevated   at  oitlier  extremity  as  the  advancing  wave 
forced  its  way  along. 

"The  see-saw  niutiun  wliich  was  thus  produced  was 
alarniing,  not  merely  in  appearance,  but  in  fact,  and 
must  have  proved  fatal  to  any  vessel  that  liad  encoun- 
tered it ;  as  Hoes  of  ice,  several  yards  in  thickness,  were 
continually  crashing  and  breaking  in  pieces,  and  the 
sea  for  miles  was  covered  with  fragments  ground  so 
small   that  they  actually   tbrmed   a  thick,  pasty  sub- 
stance—  in  nautical  language  termed,  ''hrauli  ice'  — 
which  extended  to  the  depth  of  live  feet.     Amidst  this 
giddy  element,  our  whole  attention  was  occu^ned  in  en- 
deavoring to  place  the  bow  of  the  vessel,  the  strongest 
part  of  her  frame,  in  the  direction  of  the  most  formida- 
ble pieces  of  ice  — a  maneuver  which,  though  likely  to 
be  attended  with  the  loss  of  the  bowsprit,  was  yet  prefer- 
able to  encountering  the  still  greater  risk  of  having  the 
broadside  of  the  vessel  in  contact  with  it ;  for  this  woidd 
have  subjected  her  to  the  chance  of  dipping  her  gun- 
wale under  the  lioes  as  she  rolled,  an  accident  which, 
had  it  occurred,  would  either  have  laid  open  her  side, 
or  hjive  overset  the  vessel  at  once.     In  either  case,  the 
event  woidd  probably  have  proved  fatal  to  all  on  board, 
as  it  would  liave  been  next  to  impossible  to  rescue  any 
person  from  the  confused  moving  mass  of  brash  ice 
which  covered  the  sea  in  every  direction." 

Tiie  attention  of  the  seamen  was  in  some  degree  di- 
verted from  the  contemplation  of  this  scene  of  diffi- 
culty by  the  necessity  of  employing  all  hands  at  the 
pump,  the  leak  having  gained  upon  them.  But,  for- 
tunately, toward  morning,  they  got  quite  clear  of  the 
ice. 

Steering  to  the  westward  to  reconnoiter,  tliey  fell  in, 
hi  longitude  4°  30'  E.,  with  several  whale  ships,  and 
were  informed  by  tlieni  that  the  ice  was  quite  compact 
to  the  westward,  and  that  fifteen  vessels  were  beset  in 
it.  Proceeding  to  the  northward,  the  ships  passed,  on 
the  11th  of  June,  Cloven  Cliff,  a  remarkal)le  isolated 
rock,  which  marks  the  northwestern  boniubirv  of  Spitz- 
bergen,  and  steered  along  an  intricate  channel  bet\veen 


54 


PltOORKRS   OF   ABCTTO   T>[SCn\Ti;RT. 


the  land  and  ice  ;  hut,  next  in<^rnin^,  their  further  ad- 
vance w?i8  stopped,  and  tiie  channel  \>y  whidi  the  ves- 
sels iiad  entered  became  ho  conipU'tcly  cU)sed  up  as  to 
preclude  the  possihil'ty  also  of  retreating.  Lieutenant 
lieechey  proceed«  to  state  — 

"  The  ice  soon  he^jjan  to  press  heavily  upon  us,  and, 
to  add  to  our  dilHculties,  we  found  tlie  water  sosiudlow 
that  the  rocks  were  plainly  discovered  under  tlie  bot- 
toms of  tlie  ships.  It  was  impossible,  hoM'ever,  by  any 
exertion  on  our  part,  to  improve  tlie  situations  of  the 
vessels.  They  were  as  lirmly  fixed  in  the  ice  as  if  they 
had  formed  pail;  of  tlie  ])acK,  and  we  could  oidy  liope 
that  the  current  would  not  drift  them  into  still  shallower 
water,  and  damage  them  against  the  ground." 

The  siiips  were  here  heimned  in  in  almost  tiie  same 
position  where  Batiin,  Hudson,  Poole,  Captain  Phipps, 
and  all  *':o  early  voyagers  to  this  quarter  had  been 
stopped. 

As  the  tide  turned,  the  pieces  of  ice  immediately 
around  the  ships  began  to  separate,  and  some  of  tliein 
to  twist  round  with  a  loud  grinding  noise,  urgin^;  the 
vessels,  which  were  less  than  a  mile  from  the  land,  still 
nearer  and  nearer  to  the  beach. 

By  great  exertions  the  ships  were  hauled  into  small 
bays  in  the  floe,  and  secured  there  by  ropes  fixed  to  the 
ice  by  means  of  large  iron  hooks,  called  ice  anchors. 
Shifting  the  ships  from  one  part  t>f  this  floe  to  the  other, 
they  remained  attached  to  tlie  ice  thirteen  days.  As 
this  change  of  position  could  only  be  efl"ected  by  main 
force,  the  crew  were  so  constantlv  enojajjed  in  this  bar- 
assing  duty,  that  their  time  was  divided  almost  entirely 
between  the  windlass  and  the  pump,  until  the  men  at 
length  became  so  fatigued  that  the  sick-list  was  seriously 
augmented.  During  this  period,  however,  the  situation 
of  tlie  leak  was  fortunately  discovered,  and  the  damage 
repaired. 

An  ofiicer  and  a  party  of  men  who  left  the  Dorothea 
to  pay  a  visit  to  the  shore,  about  three  or  four  miles 
distant,  lost  tliemselves  in  the  fog  and  snow,  and  wan- 
dered about  for  sixteen  hours,  until,  quite  overcome 


t 


VOYAOK    OF    niKUIAN    ANT)   FRANKLIN. 


55 


fiirtlier  ad- 

s 

['h  the  vcH- 

ij^B 

(1  u[)  as  to 

'  jH 

Liuuteimnt 

9 

m  lis,  and, 

m 

80  shallow 

*^m 

er  tho  bot- 

S 

her,  by  any 

S 

(Hirt  of  tho 

^s 

^  as  it'  thoy 

sH 

only  hope 

9H 

1  shallower 

'1| 

• 

t  tiio  same 

1 

lin  Phip2)9, 

mk 

had  been 

^? 

'M 

miediately 

■V? 

lie  of  tliem 

^it^' 

iirginfij  tho 

)  lan( ,  still 

■'^ 

into  small 

'.^ 

ixed  to  the 

e  anchors. 

■^ 

1  the  other, 

M 

days.    As 

'^'« 

I  by  main 

1  this  har- 

st  entirely 

t;^ 

le  men  at 

^  seriously 

3  situation 

[C  damage 

*'^&. 

Dorothea 

bur  miles 

^M 

and  wan- 

o\'ercome 

with  wot,  coM  and  fatigue,  they  sat  down  in  a  state  of 
desj)on<lency,  upon  a  piece  of  ice,  determined  to  submit 
their  fate  to  Providence.     Their  troubles  are  thus  told  : 

'•To  travel  over  ragged  pieces  of  ice,  upon  which 
there  were  two  feet  of  snow,  and  often  more,  snringing 
from  one  slippery  piece  to  the  other,  or,  when  tlio  chan- 
uiils  betwe(!n  them  were  too  wide  for  this  purpose,  fer- 
rying themselves  upon  detached  fragments,  was  a  work 
which  it  required  no  ordinary  exertion  to  execute. 

"Some  fell  into  the  water,  and  were  with  dithculty 
preserved  from  drowning  by  their  companions;  while 
others,  afraid  to  make  any  hazardous  attempt  whatever, 
were  left  upon  pieces  of  ice,  and  dritlod  about  at  the 
mercy  of  the  winds  and  tides.  Foreseeing  the  proba- 
bility of  a  separation,  they  took  the  first  opportunity 
of  dividing,  in  equal  shares,  the  small  quantity  of  pro- 
vision whicli  they  had  remaining,  as  also  their  stock  of 


jports  ot  tne  nre-arms  W(!re  neara  by  tneir  ship- 
mates, and  Messrs.  Fife  and  Kirby,  the  Greenland  ice- 
masters,  ventured  out  with  ])oles  and  lines  to  their 
assistance,  and  had  the  good  fortune  to  fall  in  with  the 

})arty,  and  bring  them  safely  on  board,  after  eighteen 
lours'  absence.  They  determined  in  future  to  rest  sat- 
isfied with  tlie  view  of  the  shore  which  was  afforded 
them  from  the  ship,  having  not  the  slightest  desire  to 
attempt  to  approach  it  again  by  means  of  the  ice. 

The  pressure  of  the  ice  against  the  vessels  now  be- 
came very  great. 

"At  one  time,  whentheTrent  appeared  to  be  so  closely 
wedged  up  that  it  did  not  seem  possible  for  her  to  be 
moved,  she  was  suddenly  lifted  four  feet  by  an  enor- 
mous mass  of  ice  getting  under  her  keel ;  at  another, 
the  fragments  of  the  crumbling  floe  were  piled  up 
under  the  bows,  to  the  great  danger  of  the  bowsprit. 

"The  Dorothea  was  in  no  less  imminent  danger,  es- 
pecially from  the  point  of  a  floe,  which  came  in  contact 
with  her  side,  where  it  remained  a  short  time,  and  then 
glanced  off!,  and  became  checked  by  the  field  to  which 


'trrr- 


I , 


n  . 


M 


66 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIO   DISCOVERT. 


she  was  moored.  The  enormons  pressure  to  which  the 
ship  had  been  subjected  was  now  apparent  by  the  field 
being  7'ent^  and  its  point  broken  into  fragments,  which 
were  speedily  heaped  up  in  a  jwramid,  thirty-five  feet 
in  height,  upon  the  very  summit  of  which  there  ap- 
peared a  huge  mass,  bearing  the  impression  of  the 
planks  and  bolts  of  the  vessel's  bottom." 

Availing  themselves  of  a  break  in  the  ice,  the  ships 
were  moved  to  an  anchorage  between  the  islands  con- 
tiguous to  the  Cloven  Clift  ;  and  on  the  28th  of  June, 
anchored  in  fifteen  fathoms  water,  near  Yogel  Sang. 
On  the  islands  they  found  plenty  of  game,  and  eider- 
ducks. 

The  island  of  Yogel  Sang  alone  supplied  the  crews 
with  forty  reindeer,  which  were  in  such  high  condition 
that  the  fat  upon  the  loins  of  some  measured  from  four 
to  six  inches,  and  a  carcass,  ready  for  being  dressed, 
weighed  285  pounds.  Later  in  the  season,  the  deer 
were,  however,  so  lean  that  it  was  rare  to  meet  with  any 
fat  upon  them  at  all. 

On  the  6th  of  July,  finding  the  ice  had  been  driven 
to  the  nortliward,  the  ships  again  put  to  sea,  and  Capt. 
Buchan  determined  to  prove,  by  a  desperate  effbii;, 
what  advance  it  was  possible  to  make  by  dragging  the 
vessels  through  the  ice  whenever  the  smallest  opening 
occurred.  This  laborious  experiment  was  performea 
by  fixing  large  ropes  to  iron  hooks  driven  into  the  ice, 
and  by  heaving  upon  them  with  the  windlass,  a  party 
removing  obstructions  in  the  channel  with  saws.  But 
in  spite  of  all  their  exertions,  the  most  northerly  posi- 
tion attained  was  80°  37'  I^.  Although  fastened  to  the 
ice,  the  shij)s  were  now  drifted  bodily  to  the  southward 
by  the  prevailing  current.  They  were  also  much  in- 
jured by  the  press^ire  of  hummocks  and  fields  of  ice. 

On  the  10th  of  July,  Captain  Beechey  tells  us,  the 
Trent  sustained  a  squeeze  which  made  her  rise  four 
feet,  and  heel  over  five  streaks  ;  and  on  the  15th  and 
.16th,  both  vessels  suffered  considerable  damage.  "On 
that  occasion,"  he  says,  "we  observed  a  field  fifteen 
feet  in  thickness  break  up,  and  the  pieces  pile  upon 


VOYAGK   OF   BUCHAN   AND   FKANia.IN. 


67 


which  the 
Y  the  field 
Qts,  which 
5r-five  feet 
there  ap- 
on  of  the 

the  ships 
ands  con- 
li  of  June, 
)gel  Sang, 
and  eider- 

the  crews 
.  condition 

from  four 
g  dressed, 
,  the  deer 
it  with  any 

;en  driven 
and  Capt. 
ate  eifoii;, 
.jxuinff  the 
t  opening 
performea 
:o  the  ice, 
Is,  a  party 
liws.  But 
lerly  posi- 
led  to  the 
louthward 
Iniuch  in- 

of  ice. 
|ls  us,  the 
rise  four 
Il5th  and 
^*e.  "  On 
Id  fifteen 
»ile  upon 


each  other  to  a  great  height,  until  they  upset,  when  they 
rolled  over  with  a  tremendous  crash.  The  ice  near  the 
ships  was  piled  up  above  their  bulwarks.  Fortunately, 
the  vessels  rose  to  the  pressure,  or  they  must  have  had 
tlieir  sides  forced  in.  The  Trent  received  her  greatest 
damage  upon  the  quarters,  and  was  so  twisted  that  the 
doors  of  all  the  cabins  flew  open,  and  the  panels  ot 
some  started  in  the  frames,  while  her  false  stern-post 
was  moved  three  inches,  and  her  timbers  cracked  to  a 
most  serious  extent.  The  Dorothea  suftered  still  more  : 
some  of  her  beams  were  si^rung,  and  two  planks  on  the 
lower  deck  were  split  fore  and  aft,  and  doubled  up,  and 
she  otherwise  sustained  serious  injury  in  her  hull.  It 
was  in  vain  that  we  attempted  any  relief ;  our  puny 
eftbrts  were  not  even  felt,  though  continued  for  eight 
hours  with  unabated  zeal ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  tide 
changed  that  the  smallest  effect  was  produced.  When, 
however,  that  occurred,  the  vessels  righted  and  settled 
in  the  water  to  their  proper  draught." 

From  the  12th  to  the  19th,  they  were  closely  beset 
with  ice.  For  nine  successive  days  following  this  the 
crews  were  occupied,  night  and  day,  in  endeavoring  to 
extricate  the  ships,  and  regain  the  open  sea.  Thinking 
he  had  given  the  ice  a  fair  trial  here,  the  commander 
determined  upon  examining  its  condition  toward  the 
eastern  coast  of  Greenland,  and  in  the  event  of  finding 
it  equally  impenetrable  there,  to  proceed  round  the 
south  cape  of  Spitzbergen,  and  make  an  attempt  be- 
tween that  island  and  Nova  Zembla. 

On  the  30th  of  July,  a  sudden  gale  came  on,  and 
brought  down  the  main  body  of  the  ice  upon  them,  so 
that  the  ships  were  in  such  imminent  danger  that  their 
only  means  of  safety  was  to  take  refuge  among  it  —  a 
practice  which  has  been  resorted  to  by  whalers  in  ex- 
treme cases  —  as  their  only  chance  of  escaping  destruc- 
tion. 

The  following  is  a  description  of  the  preparation 
made  to  withstand  the  terrible  encounter,  and  the  hair- 
breadth escape  from  the  dangers :  — 

"In  order  to  avert  the  pffaefA  of  this  as  much  as  pos- 


I 


;i 


ji  ■ 


58 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Bible,  a  cable  was  cut  up  into  thirty-feet  lengths,  ana 
these,  with  plates  of  iron  four  feet  square,  which  had 
been  supplied  to  us  as  fenders,  together  with  some 
walrus'  hides,  were  hung  round  the  vessels,  especially 
about  the  bows.  The  masts,  at  the  same  time,  wcjre  se- 
cured with  additional  ropes,  and  the  hatches  were  bat- 
tened and  nailed  dosvn.  By  the  time  these  precautions 
had  been  taken,  our  approach  to  the  breakers  only  left 
us  the  alternative  of  either  permitting  the  ships  to  be 
dritted  broadside  against  the  ice,  and  so  to  take  their 
chance,  or  of  endeavoring  to  force  fairly  into  it  by  put- 
ting before  the  wind.  At  length,  the  hopeless  state  of 
a  vessel  placed  broadside  against  so  formidable  a  body 
became  apparent  to  all,  and  we  resolved  to  attempt 
the  latter  expedient." 

Eagerly,  but  in  vain,  was  the  general  line  of  the  pack 
scanned,  to  find  one  place  more  open  than  the  other. 
All  parts  appeared  to  be  equally  impenetrable,  and  to 
present  one  unbroken  line  of  furious  breakers,  in  whicli 
immense  pieces  of  ice  were  heaving  and  subsiding  with 
the  waves,  and  dashing  together  with  a  violence  which 
nothing  apparently  but  a  solid  body  could  withstand, 
occasioning  such  a  noise  that  it  was  with  the  greatest 
difficulty  the  officers  could  make  their  orders  heard  hy 
the  crew. 

The  fearful  aspect  of  this  appalling  scene  is  thus 
sketched  by  Captain  Beechey  :  — 

"  No  language,  I  am  convinced,  can  convey  an  ade- 
quate idea  of  the  terrific  grandeur  of  the  eifect  now  pro- 
duced by  the  collision  of  the  ice  and  the  tempestuous 
ocean.  The  sea,  violently  agitated  and  rolling  its  moun- 
tainous waves  against  an  opposing  body,  is  at  all  times 
a  sublime  and  awful  sight ;  but  when,  in  addition,  it 
encounters  immense  masses,  which  it  has  set  in  motion 
with  a  violence  equal  to  its  own,  its  effect  is  prodigi- 
ously increased.  At  one  moment  it  bursts  upon  these 
icy  fragments  and  buries  them  many  feet  beneath  its 
wave,  and  the  next,  as  the  buoyancy  of  the  depressed 
bodv  struo-tjles  for  reascendancv,  the  water  rushes  in 
cataracts  over  its  eciges ;  while  every  indi- 


foaminjj 


r*"^ 


CRY. 


VOYAGE  OF  BUCHAN  AND  FRANKLIN. 


59 


et  lengths,  ana 
are,  which  had 
her  with  some 
ssels,  especially 
e  time,  were  se- 
tches  were  bat- 
lese  precautions 
eakers  only  left 
the  ships  to  be 
50  to  take  their 
'  into  it  by  put- 
Dpeless  state  of 
midable  a  body 
^'ed  to  attempt 

line  of  the  pack 
than  the  other, 
letrable,  and  to 
akers,  in  which 

subsiding  with 
violence  which 

lid  withstand, 
the  greatest 
rders  heard  by 

scene  is  thus 

onvey  an  ade- 

iifect  now  pro- 

e  tempestuous 

lling  its  moun- 

is  at  all  times 

■m  addition,  it 

set  in  motion 

ct  is  prodigi- 

sts  upon  these 

it  beneath  its 

he  depressed 

ter  rushes  in 

e  every  indi- 


I 


vidual  mass,  rocking  and  laboring  in  its  bed,  grinds 
against  and  contends  with  its  opponent,  until  one  is 
either  split  with  the  shock  or  upheaved  upon  the  sur- 
tace  of  the  other.  Nor  is  this  collision  confined  to  any 
particular  spot ;  it  is  going  on  as  far  as  the  sight  can 
reach ;  and  when  from  this  convulsive  scene  below,  the 
eye  is  turned  to  the  extraordinary  appearance  of  the 
blink  in  the  sky  above,  where  the  unnatural  clear- 
ness of  a  calm  and  silvery  atmosphere  presents  itself, 
bounded  by  a  dark,  hard  line  of  stormy  clouds,  such  as 
at  this  moment  lowered  over  our  masts,  as  if  to  mark 
the  confines  within  which  the  efforts  of  man  would  be 
of  no  avail.  The  reader  may  imagine  the  sensation  of 
awe  which  must  accompany  that  of  grandeur  in  the 
mind  of  the  beholder." 

'S  ■  ever,"  continues  the  narrator,  "  the  fortitude  of 
sea^  V  IS  fairly  tried,  it  was  assuredly  not  less  so  on 
this  '  ,ion  ;  and  I  will  not  conceal  the  pride  I  felt  in 
witnessing  the  bold  and  decisive  tone  in  which  the 
orders  were  issued  by  the  commander  (the  present 
Captain  Sir  John  Franklin)  of  our  little  vessel,  and  the 
promptitude  and  steadiness  with  which  they  were  exe- 
cuted by  the  crew."  '' 

As  the  laboring  vessel  flew  before  the  gale,  she  soon 
neared  the  scene  of  danger. 

"Each  person  instinctively  secured  his  own  hold, 
and  with  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  masts,  awaited  in 
breathless  anxiety  the  moment  of  concussion. 

"  It  soon  arrived, — the  brig,  (Trent)  cutting  her  way 
through  the  light  ice,  came  in  violent  contact  with  the 
main  body.  In  an  instant  we  all  lost  our  footing  ;  the 
masts  bent  with  the  impetus,  and  the  cracking  timbers 
from  below  bespoke  a  pressure  which  was  calculated  to 
awaken  our  serious  apprehensions.  The  vessel  stag- 
gered under  the  shock,  and  for  a  moment  seemed  to 
recoil ;  but  the  next  wave,  curling  up  under  her  coun- 
ter, drove  her  about  her  own  length  within  the  margin 
of  the  ice,  where  she  gave  one  roll,  and  was  immedi- 
ately thrown  broadside  to  the  wind  by  the  succeeding 
wave,  which   beat  furiously  against  her  stern,  and 


■VI 


HSMI 


60 


PE0GKES8   OF  AECTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Ih 


brought  her  lee-side  in  contact  with  the  main  body, 
leaving  her  weather-side  exposed  at  the  same  time  to 
a  piece  of  ice  about  twice  her  own  dimensions.  This 
nntbrtunate  occurrence  prevented  the  vessel  penetrat- 
ing suffiaiently  far  into  tlie  ice  to  escaj)e  the  effect  of 
the  gale,  and  placed  her  in  a  situation  where  she  was 
assailed  on  all  sides  by  battering-rams,  if  I  may  use 
the  expression,  every  one  of  which  contested  the  small 
space  which  she  occupied,  and  dealt  such  unrelenting 
blows,  that  there  ajipeared  to  be  scarcely  any  possibil- 
ity of  saving  her  from  foundering.  Literally  tossed 
from  piece  to  piece,  we  had  nothing  left  but  patiently 
to  abide  the  issue  ;  for  we  could  scarcely  keep  our  feet, 
much  less  render  any  assistance  to  the  vesseL  The  mo- 
tion, indeed,  was  so  great,  that  the  ship's  bell,  which,  in 
tlie  heaviest  gale  of  wind,  liad  never  struck  of  itself, 
now  tolled  so  continually,  that  it  was  ordered  to  bo 
muffled,  for  the  i3urpose  of  escaping  the  unpleasant  as 
sociation  it  was  calculated  to  produce. 

"  In  anticipation  of  the  worst,  we  determined  to  at 
tempt  placing  the  launch  ui3on  the  ice  under  the  lee, 
and  hurried  into  her  such  provisions  and  stores  as  could 
at  tlie  moment  be  got  at.  Serious  doubts  were  reason- 
ably entertained  of  the  boat  being  able  to  live  among 
the  confused  mass  by  which  we  were  encompassed;  yet 
as  this  appeared  to  be  our  only  refuge,  we  clung  to  it 
with  all  the  eagerness  of  a  last  resource." 

From  the  injury  the  vessel  repeatedly  received,  it 
became  verv  evident  that  if  subjected  to  this  concus- 
si  on  for  any  time,  she  could  not  hold  together  long  ;  the 
only  chance  of  escape,  therefore,  appeared  to  depend 
upon  'i;etting  before  the  wind,  and  penetrating  further 
into  the  ice. 

To  effect  this  with  any  probability  of  success,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  set  more  head-sail,  though  at  the 
risk  of  the  masts,  already  tottering  with  the  pressure 
of  that  which  was  spread.  By  the  expertness  of  the 
seamen,  more  sail  was  spread,  and  under  this  additional 
pressure  of  canvass,  the  ship  came  into  the  desired 
position,  and  with  the  aid  of  an  enormous  mass  under 


VOYAGE  OF  BUCHAN  AND  FRANKLIN. 


61 


in  body, 
!  time  to 
IS.  This 
penetrat- 

eff'ect  of 
!  she  was 
may  use 
;lie  small 
relenting 

possibil- 
ly  tossed 
patiently 

our  feet, 

The  mo- 
which,  in 

of  itself, 
ed  to  bo 
jasant  as 


the  stern,  she  split  a  small  field  of  ice,  fourteen  feet  in 
thickness,  M^hich  had  hitherto  impeded  her  progress, 
and  effected  a  passage  for  herself  between  the  pieces. 
In  this  improved  position,  by  carefully  placing  the 
protecting  fenders  between  the  ice  and  the  ship's  sides, 
the  strokes  were  much  diminished,  and  she  managed 
to  weather  out  the  gale,  but  lost  sight  of  her  consort  in 
the  clouds  of  spray  which  were  tossed  about,  and  the 
huge  intervening  masses  of  ice  among  which  they  were 
embayed.  On  the  gale  moderating,  the  ships  were  for- 
tunately got  once  more  into  an  open  sea,  although  both 
disabled,  and  one  at  least,  the  Dorothea,  which  had 
sustained  the  heavy  shocks,  in  a  foundering  condition. 
For  the  main  object  of  the  expedition  they  were  now 
useless,  and,  both  being  in  a  leaky  state,  they  bore  up 
for  Fair  Haven,  in  Spitzbergen.  In  approaching  the 
anchorage  in  South  Gat,  the  Trent  bounded  over  a 
sunken  rock,  and  struck  hard,  but  this,  after  their  re- 
cent danger,  was  thought  comparatively  light  of. 

On  examining  the  hulls  of  the  vessels,  it  was  found 
they  had  sustained  frightful  injuries.  The  intermediate 
lining  of  felt  between  the  timbers  and  planks  seems  to 
have  aided  greatly  in  enabling  the  vessels  to  sustain 
tlie  repeated  powerful  shocks  they  had  encountered. 
Upon  consulting  with  his  officers,  Captain  Buchan  came 
to  tlie  opinion  that  the  most  prudent  course,  was  to 
patcli  up  the  vessels  for  their  return  voyage.  Lieuten- 
ant Franklin  preferred  an  urgent  request  that  he  might 
be  allowed  to  proceed  in  his  own  vessel  upon  the  inter- 
esting service  still  unexecuted  ;  but  this  could  not  be 
complied  with,  in  conseciuence  of  the  hazard  to  the 
crew  of  proceeding  home  singly  in  a  vessel  so  shat- 
tered and  unsafe  as  the  Dorothea.     After  refitting,  they 

ut  to  sea  at  the  end  of  August,  and  reached  England 

y  the  middle  of  October. 

Feankltn's  First  Land  Expedition,  1819-21. 


I 


In  "JSIO,  on  the  ivcommondation  of  the  Lords  of  the 
Admiralty,  Capt.  Fi'anklin  was  appointed  to  command 


■( 


hi 


;i 


ftil 


I  ■ 


III 


62 


PR0GRKS8  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOYERT. 


an  overland  expedition  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  north- 
ern shores  of  America,  for  the  purpose  of  determining 
the  latitudes  and  longitudes,  and  exploring  the  coast  of 
the  continent  eastward  from  the  Coppermine  River.  Dr. 
John  Richardson,  R.  N.,  and  two  Admiralty  Midship- 
men, Mr.  George  Back,  (who  had  been  out  on  the  polar 
expedition,  in  the  previous  year,  in  II.  M.  S.  Trent,)  and 
Mr.  Robert  Hood,  were  placed  under  his  orders.  Pre- 
vious to  his  departure  from  London,  Capt.  Franklin  ob- 
tained all  the  information  and  advice  possible  from  Sir 
Alex.  Mackenzie,  one  of  the  only  two  persons  who  had 
yet  explored  those  shores.  On  the  23d  of  May,  the  party 
embarked  at  Gravesend,  in  the  Prince  of  Wales,  belong- 
ing to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  immediately 
fot  under  weigh  in  company  with  her  consorts,  the  Ecl- 
ystone  and  Wear.  Mr.  Back,  who  was  left  on  shore  by 
accident  in  Yarmouth,  succeeded  in  catching  the  ship  at 
Stromness.  On  the  4th  of  August,  in  lat.  59°  58'  ]N^., 
and  long.  59°  53'  W.,  they  fii*st  fell  in  with  large  icebergs. 
On  the  following  day,  the  height  of  one  was  ascertained 
to  be  149  feet.  After  a  stormy  and  perilous  voyage  they 
reached  the  anchorage  at  York  Flats  on  the  30th  of 
August. 

On  the  9th  of  September,  Capt.  Franklin  and  his  party 
left  York  Factory  in  a  boat  by  the  way  of  the  rivers  and 
lakes  for  Cumberland  House,  another  of  the  Company's 
posts,  which  they  reached  on  the  22d  of  October. 

On  the  19th  of  January,  Franklin  set  out  in  company 
with  Mr.  Back  and  a  seaman  named  Hepburn,  with  pro- 
visions for  fifteen  days,  stowed  in  two  sledges,  on  their 
journey  to  Fort  Chipewyan.  Dr.  Richardson,  Mr.  Hood 
and  Mr.  Conolly  accompanied  them  a  short  distance. 
After  touching  at  different  posts  of  the  Company,  they 
reached  their  destination  safely  on  the  26th  of  Marcli, 
after  a  winter's  journey  of  857  miles.  The  greatest  d  i  fli- 
culty  experienced  by  the  travelers  was  the  labor  of  walk- 
ing in  snow  shoes,  a  weight  of  between  two  and  three 
pounds  being  constantly  attached  to  galled  feet  and 
swelled  ankles. 

On  the  13th  of  July,  they  were  joined  by  Dr.  Richard- 


.iCW 


fkankijn's  first  land  expedition. 


63 


son  and  Mr.  Hood,  who  had  made  a  very  expeditious 
journey  from  Cumberland  House ;  they  had  only  one 
day's  provisions  left,  the  pemmican  they  had  received  at 
tlie  posts  being  so  mouldy  that  they  were  obliged  to  leave 
it  behind .  Arrangements  were  now  made  for  their  jour- 
ney northward.  Sixteen  Canadian  voyageurs  were  en- 
gfiged,  and  a  Ci 'pe  ^  ^  w^oman  and  tv- -  -■ttrpreters 
were  to  be  take.x  ,n  froi .  Jreat  Slave  Lakt.  The  whole 
stock  of  provisions  they  could  obtain  before  starting  was 
only  sutticient  for  one  day's  supply,  exclusive  of  two  bar- 
rels of  flour,  three  cases  of  preserved  meats,  some  choco- 
late, arrow-root  and  portable  soup,  which  had  been 
brought  from  England,  and  were  kept  as  a  reserve  for  the 
journey  to  the  coast  in  the  following  season;  seventy 
pounds  of  deer's  flesh  and  a  little  barley  were  all  that 
tiie  Company's  officers  could  give  them.  The  provisions 
were  distributed  among  three  canoes,  and  the  party  set 
off  in  good  spirits  on  the  18th  of  July.  They  had  to 
make  an  inroad  very  soon  on  their  preserved  meats,  for 
they  were  very  unfortunate  in  their  fishing.  On  the 
24th  of  July,  however,  they  were  successful  in  shooting 
a  buffalo  in  the  Salt  Eiver,  after  giving  him  fourteen 
balls.  At  Moose  Deer  Island  they  got  supplies  from 
the  Hudson's  Bay  and  JS  orth  West  Companies'  officers, 
and  on  the  27th  set  out  again  on  their  journey,  reaching 
Fort  Providence  by  the  29th. 

Shortly  after  they  had  an  interview  with  a  celebrated 
and  influential  Indian  chief,  named  Akaitcho,  who  was 
to  furnish  them  with  guides.  Another  Canadian  voyf - 
geur  was  there  engaged,  and  the  party  now  consisted  of 
the  officers  already  named,  Mr.  Fred.  Wentzel,  clerk  of 
the  N.  AV.  Fur  Company,  who  joined  them  here,  John 
Hepburn,  the  English  seaman,  seventeen  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  (one  of  whom,  named  Michel,  was  an  Iroquois,) 
and  three  Indian  interpreters,  besides  the  wives  of  three 
of  the  voyageurs  w^ho  had  been  brought  on  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  clotiies  and  shoes  for  the  men  at  the 
winter  establishment.  1  he  w^hole  number  were  twenty- 
nine,  exclusive  of  three  children.  I  give  tlie  list  of  tlioFe 
whose  names  occur  most  frequently  in  the  narrative: 


64 


FJIOGKESS  OF  AKCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


J.  B.  Belaiiger,  Peltier,  Solomon  Bellinger,  Saiiiiindre, 
Benoit,  Perrault,  Antonio  Fontano,  Beauparlant,  Yail- 
lant.  Credit,  Adam  St.  Germain,  interpreter;  Augustus 
and  Jimius,  Esquimaux  interpreters.  They  had  provis- 
ions for  ten  days'  consumjition,  besides  a  little  chocolate 
and  tea,  viz  :  two  casks  of  tlour,  200  dried  reindeer 
tongues,  some  dried  moose  meat,  portable  soup,  and  a 
little  arrow-root.  A  small  extra  canoe  was  provided  for 
the  women,  and  the  journey  for  tlie  Coppermine  liiver 
was  commenced  on  tlie  2d  of  August.  The  party  met 
with  many  hardships — were  placed  on  short  diet — and 
some  of  the  Canadians  broke  out  into  open  rebellion, 
refusing  to  proceed  farther.  However,  they  were  at  last 
calmed,  and  arrived  on  the  20th  of  August  at  Fort  En- 
terprise, on  Winter  Lake,  w^hich,  by  the  advice  of  their 
Indian  guides,  they  determined  on  making  their  winter 
quarters.  The  total  length  of  the  voyage  from  Chipe- 
wyan  was  552  miles;  and  after  leaving  Fort  Providence, 
they  had  21  miles  of  portage  to  pass  over.  As  the  men 
had  to  traverse  each  portage  with  a  load  of  180  lbs., 
and  return  three  times  light,  they  walked,  in  the  whole, 
upward  of  150  miles. 

In  consequence  of  the  refusal  of  Akaitcho  and  his 
party  of  Indians  to  guide  and  accompany  them  to  tlie 
sea,  because,  as  they  alledged,  of  the  approach  of  win- 
ter, and  the  imminent  danger.  Captain  Franklin  was 
obliged  to  abandon  proceeding  that  season  down  the 
river,  and  contented  himself  with  dispatching,  on  the 
29th,  Mr.  Back  and  Mr.  Hood,  in  a  light  canoe,  with 
St.  Germain  as  interpreter,  eight  Canadians,  and  one 
Indian,  furnished  with  eight  days' provisions — all  that 
could  he  spared. 

They  returned  on  the  10th  of  September,  after  hav- 
ing reached  and  coasted  Point  Lake.  In  the  mean  time, 
Franklin  and  Richardson,  accompanied  by  J.  Hepburn 
and  two  Indians,  also  made  a  pedestrian  excursion  tow- 
ard the  same  quarter,  leaving  on  the  0th  of  September, 
and  returning  on  the  fourteenth.  The  whole  ].)arty 
spent  a  long  winter  of  ten  months  at  Fort  Enterprise, 
depending  ujxni  tlie  tisli  tliey  cor.ld  catch,  and  the  suc- 
cess of  llieii'  Iii'liii;!  Imiitei's,  tV>r  food. 


FRANKLIN  8   FIRST  LAND   EXPEDITION. 


65 


iiiiuiiKhe, 
lilt,  Y ail- 
Augustus 
id  provis- 
cliocolate 

reindeer 
up,  and  a 
(vided  for 
ine  Kiver 
)arty  met 
liet — and 
rebellion, 
ire  at  last 

Fort  En- 
e  of  their 
iir  winter 
m  Chipe- 
ovidence, 
8  the  men 
i  180  lbs., 
le  whole, 

I  and  his 
m  to  the 

of  win- 
kliii  was 
own  the 
,  on  the 
oe,  with 
land  one 

all  that 

ter  li  av- 
ian time, 
lepburn 
lion  tow- 
[tember, 
party 
[orprise, 
the  sue- 


On  the  6th  of  October,  the  officers  quitted  their  tents 
for  a  good  log  house  which  had  been  built.  The  clay 
with  which  the  walls  and  roof  were  plastered,  had  to 
be  tempered  before  the  fire  with  water,  and  froze  as  it 
was  daubed  on  ;  but  afterward  cracked  in  such  a  man- 
ner, as  to  admit  the  wind  from  every  quarter.  Still 
the  new  abode,  with  a  good  fire  of  fagots  in  the  capa- 
cious clay-built  chimney,  was  considered  quite  comfort- 
able when  compared  with  the  chilly  tents. 

The  reindeer  are  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Copper- 
mine Kiver  early  in  May,  as  they  then  go  to  the  sea- 
coast  to  bring  forth  their  young.  They  usually  retire 
from  the  coast  in  July  and  August,  rut  in  October,  and 
slielter  themselves  in  the  woods  during  winter.  Before 
the  middle  of  October,  the  carcasses  of  one  hundred 
deer  had  been  secured  in  their  store-house,  together  with 
one  thousand  j)ounds  of  suet,  and  some  dried  meat ; 
and  eighty  deer  were  stowed  away  at  various  distances 
from  their  house,  en  Gaohe.  This  placing  provisions 
"  en  cache,"  is  merely  burying  and  protecting  it  from 
wolves  and  other  depredators,  by  heavy  loads  of  wood 
or  stone. 

On  the  18th  of  October,  Mr.  Back  and  Mr.Wentzel, 
accompanied  by  two  Canadian  voyageurs,  two  Indians 
and  their  wives,  set  out  for  Fort  Frovidence  to  make 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  transporting  the  stores 
they  expected  from  Cumberland  House,  and  to  see  if 
some  further  supplies  might  not  be  obtained  from  the 
establishments  on  Slave  Lake.  Dispatches  for  Eng- 
land were  also  forwarded  by  them,  detailing  the  pro- 
gress of  the  expedition  up  to  this  date.  By  the  end  of 
the  month  the  men  had  also  completed  a  house  for 
themselves,  34  feet  by  18.  On  the  26th  of  October, 
Akaitcho,  and  his  Indian  party  of  hunters,  amounting 
with  women  and  children  to  forty  souls,  came  in,  owinw 
to  the  deer  having  migrated  southward.  This  added 
to  the  daily  number  to  be  provided  for,  and  by  this  time 
their  ammunition  was  nearly  expended. 

The  fishing  failed  as  the  weather  became  more  severe, 
and  was  given  up  on  the  5th  of  Kovember.    About 


8* 


06 


PKOGKK88    OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVKKY. 


' ..  -i 


i    ;! 


i  M'  V 


1200  white  fisli,  of  from  two  to  three  pounds,  hud  been 
procured  during  the  season.  The  fish  froze  as  they 
were  taken  from  the  nets,  becoming  in  a  short  time  a 
solid  mass  of  ice,  so  tliat  a  blow  or  two  of  the  hatchet 
would  easily  split  them  open,  when  the  intestines  might 
be  removed  in  one  lump.  If  thawed  before  the  fare, 
even  after  being  frozen  for  nearly  two  days,  the  fish 
would  recover  their  animation. 

On  the  23d  of  November,  they  were  gratified  by  the 
appearance  of  one  of- the  Canadian  voyageurs  who  had 
set  out  with  Mr.  Back.  Tlis  locks  were  nuitted  with 
snow,  and  he  was  so  encrusted  with  ice  from  head  to 
foot,  that  they  could  scarcely  recognize  him.  lie  re- 
ported that  they  had  had  a  tedious  and  fatiguing  jour- 
ney to  Fort  Providence,  and  for  some  days  were  desti- 
tute of  provisions.  Letters  were  brought  from  England 
to  the  preceding  April,  and  quickly  was  the  packet 
thawed  to  get  at  the  contents.  The  newspapers  con- 
veyed the  intelligence  of  the  death  of  George  III.  The 
advices  as  to  the  expected  stores  were  disheartening ; 
of  ten  bales  of  ninety  pounds  each,  five  had  been  l^iX 
by  some  mismanagement  at  the  Grand  Rapid  on  tlw 
Sattkatchawan.  On  the  28th  of  November,  St.  Ger- 
main the  interpreter,  with  eight  Canadian  voyageurs, 
and  four  Indian  hunters,  were  sent  ofl:'  to  bring  up  the 
stores  from  Fort  Pi'ovidence. 

On  the  10th  of  December,  Franklin  managed  to  get 
rid  of  Akaitcho  and  his  Indian  party,  by  representing 
to  them  the  impossibility  of  maintaining  them.  The 
leader,  however,  left  them  his  mother  and  two  female 
attendants;  and  old  Kaskarrah,  the  guide,  with  his  wife 
and  daughter,  remained  behind.  This  daughter,  who 
was  designated  "  Green  Stockings,"  from  her  dress,  was 
considered  a  great  beauty  by  her  tribe,  and  although 
but  sixteen,  had  belonged  successively  to  two  husbands, 
and  would  probably  have  been  the  wife  of  many  more, 
if  her  mother  had  not  required  her  services  as  a  nurse. 

Mr.  Hood  took  a  good  likeness  of  the  young  lady, 
but  her  mother  was  somewhat  averse  to  her  sitting  for 
it,  fearing  that  "  her  daughter's  likeness  would  induce 


franklin's  first  land  exprdition. 


07 


hud  been 
as  they 
I't  time  a 
3  hatchet 
188  might 
the  fare, 
,  the  fish 

id  by  the 
who  had 
:ted  with 

head  to 
lie  re- 
ling  jour- 
ere  desti- 
England 
e  packet 
pers  con- 
[II.  The 
rtening ; 
been  l^i\ 
i  on  th<? 

St.  Ger- 
yageiirs, 
up  the 


id  to  get 
lesenting 
The 
female 
his  wife 
;er,  who 
ress,  wa8 
jlthough 
isbands, 
more, 
nurse, 
lady, 
;ing  for 
induce 


the  Great  Chief  who  resided  in  England  to  send  for  the 
ori'!;inal ! " 

The  diet  of  the  party  in  their  winter  abode  consisted 
almost  entirely  of  reindeer  meat,  varied  twice  a  week 
by  fish,  and  occasionally  by  a  little  Hour,  but  they  had 
no  vegetables  of  any  kind.  On  Sunday  morning  they 
liad  a  cup  of  chocolate  ;  but  their  greatest  luxury  was 
tea,  which  they  regularly  had  twice  a  day,  although 
witliout  sugar.  Candles  were  funned  of  reindeer  fat 
and  strips  of  cotton  shirts;  and  Hepl)urn  acquired  con- 
siderable skill  in  the  manufacture  of  soap  from  the  wood 
ashes,  fat  and  salt.  The  stores  were  anxiously  looked 
for,  and  it  was  hoped  they  would  have  arrived  by  New 
Year's  Day,  (1821,)  so  as  to  have  kept  the  festival.  As 
it  was,  they  could  only  receive  a  little  flour  and  fat,  both 
of  which  were  considered  great  luxuries. 

On  the  15th,  seven  of  the  men  arrived  with  two  kegs 
of  rum,  one  barrel  of  powder,  sixty  pounds  of  ball,  two 
rolls  of  tobacco,  and  some  clothing. 

"  They  had  been  twenty-one  days  on  their  march  from 
Slave  Lake,  and  the  labor  they  underwent  was  suffi- 
ciently evinced  by  their  sledge  collars  having  worn  out 
the  shoulders  of  their  coats.  Their  loads  weighed  from 
sixty  to  ninety  pounds  each,  exclusive  of  their  bedding 
and  provisions,  which  at  starting  must  have  been  at  least 
as  much  more.  We  were  much  rejoiced  at  their  arrival, 
and  proceeded  forthwith  to  pierce  the  spirit  cask,  and 
issue  to  each  of  the  household  the  portion  of  mm  which 
had  been  promised  on  the  first  day  of  the  year.  The 
spirits,  which  were  proof,  were  frozen;  but  after  stand- 
ing at  the  fire  for  some  time  they  flowed  out,  of  the 
consistence  of  honey.  The  temperature  of  the  liquid, 
even  in  this  state,  was  bo  low  as  instantly  to  convert 
into  ice  the  moisture  which  condensed  on  the  surface  of 
the  dram-glass.  The  fingers  also  adhered  to  the  glass, 
and  would  doubtless  have  been  speedily  frozen  had  they 
been  kept  in  contact  with  it ;  yet  each  of  the  voyageurs 
swallowed  his  dram  without  experiencing  the  slightest 
inconvenience,  or  complaining  of  toothache." 

It  appeared  that  the  Canadians  had  tapped  the  rum- 


08 


PROOKKSS   OF   ARC'liO   D18C0VKRT. 


cask  on  their  journey,  and  helped  themselves  rather 
freely. 

On  the  27th,  Mr.  Wentzel  and  St.  Germain  arrived, 
with  two  Esquimaux  interpreters  who  had  been  engaged, 
possessed  of  euphonious  names,  representing  the  belly 
and  the  ear,  but  which  had  been  Anglicised  into  Au- 
gustus and  Junius,  being  the  months  tiiey  had  respec- 
tively arrived  at  Fort  Ohurchill.  The  former  spoke 
English.  They  brought  four  dogs  with  them,  wliich 
proved  of  great  use  during  the  season  in  drawing  in 
w^ood  for  fuel. 

Mr.  Back,  at  tliis  time,  the  24th  of  December,  had 
gone  on  t?  Chipewyan  to  procure  stores.  On  the  12th 
of  February,  another  party  of  six  men  was  sent  to  Fort 
Providence  to  bring  up  the  remaining  supplies,  and 
these  returned  on  the  5th  of  March.  Many  of  the  caches 
of  meat  which  had  been  buried  early  in  the  winter  were 
found  destroyed  by  the  wolves  ;  and  some  of  these  ani- 
mals prowled  nightly  about  the  dwellings,  even  ventur- 
ing upon  the  roof  of  tlieir  kitchen.  The  rations  were 
reduced  from  eight  to  the  short  allowance  of  five  ounces 
of  animal  food  per  day. 

On  the  17th  of  March,  Mr.  Back  returned  from  Fort 
Chipewyan,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  five  months, 
during  which  he  had  performed  a  journey  on  foot  of 
more  than  eleven  hundred  miles  on  snow  shoes,  witli 
only  the  slight  shelter  at  night  of  a  blanket  and  a  deer 
skin,  with  Hie  thermometer  frequently  at  40°  and  once 
at  57°,  and  very  often  passing  several  days  without 
food. 

Some  very  interesting  traits  of  generosity  on  the  part 
of  the  Indians  are  recorded  by  Mr.  Back.  Often  they 
gave  np  and  would  not  taste  of  fish  or  birds  which  they 
caught,  with  the  touching  remark,  "  "We  are  accustomed 
to  starvation,  and  you  are  not." 

Such  passages  as  the  following  often  occur  in  liia 
narrative  : — "  One  of  our  men  caught  a  fish,  which,  with 
the  assistance  of  some  weed  scraped  from  the  rocks, 
{tri^e  do  rocho)  M^hich  forms  a  glutinous  substance,  made 
us  a  toleral)le  suppei* ;  it  was  not  of  the  most  choice  kind, 


In 


FKANKLIN  8  FIUST  LAND  LXI'KDITION. 


6Q 


3  rather 

arrived, 
jngaged, 
ho  belly 
into  Au- 
l  rcspec- 
3r  spoke 
1,  wliich 
iwing  in 

ber,  had 
the  12th 
it  to  Fort 
lies,  and 
\e  caches 
iter  were 
hese  ani- 
n  ventui'- 
ms  were 
e  ounces 

♦om  Fort 

months, 

foot  of 

:)e8,  with 

d  a  deer 

nd  once 

without 

the  part 
ten  thoy 
ich  they 
istomed 

in  his 
3h,  with 

rocks, 

|e,  made 

le  kind, 


yet  good  enough  for  hungry  men.  While  we  were  eat- 
ing it,  I  perceived  one  of  the  women  busily  employed 
scraping  an  old  skin,  the  contents  of  which  her  husband 
presented  us  with.  The^  consisted  cf  pounded  meat, 
fat,  and  a  greater  proportion  of  Indian's  and  deer's  hair 
than  either ;  and,  though  such  a  mixture  may  not  appear 
very  alluring  to  an  English  stomach,  it  was  thougnt  a 
great  luxury  after  three  days'  privation  in  these  cheer- 
less regions  of  America." 

To  return  to  the  proceedings  of  Fort  Ent  rprise.  On 
the  23d  of  March,  the  last  of  the  winter's  stock  of  deei  s 
meat  was  expended,  and  the  party  were  compelled  to 
consume  a  little  pounded  meat,  which  had  Ov^en  su  'ed 
for  making  pemmican.  The  nets  scarcely  produced  any 
fish,  and  their  meals,  which  had  hitherto  been  scanty 
enough,  were  now  restricted  to  one  in  the  day. 

The  poor  Indian  families  about  the  house,  consi  >t;iLw 
principally  of  sick  and  infirm  women  and  children,  sui- 
fered  even  more  privation.  They  cleared  away  the 
snow  on  the  site  of  the  Autumn  encampment  to  look  for 
bones,  deer's  feet,  bits  of  hide,  and  other  offal.  "  When 
(says  Franklin)  we  beheld  them  gnawing  the  pieces  of 
hide,  and  pounding  the  bones  for  the  purpose  of  extract- 
ing some  nourishment  from  them  by  boiling,  we  regret- 
ted our  inability  to  relieve  them,  but  little  thought  that 
we  should  ourselves  be  afterward  driven  to  the  neces- 
sity of  eagerly  collecting  these  same  bones,  a  second 
time  from  the  dung-hill." 

On  the  4th  of  June,  1821,  a  first  'p&.i'f  set  off*  from 
the  winter  quarters  for  Point  Lake,  and  tlie  Coppermine 
River,  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  Richardson,  consisting, 
in  all,  voyageurs  and  Indians,  of  tweiuy-three,  exclusive 
of  children.  Each  of  the  men  carried  about  80  lbs.,  be- 
sides his  own  personal  baggage,  weighing  nearly  as 
much  more.  Some  of  the  party  dragged  their  loads  on 
sledges,  others  preferred  carrying  their  burden  on  their 
backs.  On  the  13th,  Dr.  Richardson  sent  back  most  of 
the  men ;  and  on  the  14th  Franklin  dispatched  Mr. 
Wentzel  and  a  party  with  the  canoes,  which  had  been 
repaired.    Following  the  water-course  as  far  as  practi- 


70 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


^      .V 


•r-:^ 


i;,  ; 


cable  to  Winter  Lake,  Franklin  followed  himself  with 
Hepburn,  three  Canadians,  two  Indian  hunters,  and 
tlie  two  Esquimaux,  and  joined  Dr.  liichardson  on  the 
22d.  On  the  25tli  they  all  resumed  tlieir  journey,  and, 
as  they  proceeded  down  the  river,  were  fortunate  in 
killing,  occasionally,  several  musk  oxen. 

On  the  15th  they  got  a  distinct  view  of  the  sea  from 
the  summit  of  a  hill ;  it  appeared  choked  with  ice  and 
full  of  islands.  About  this  time  they  fell  in  with  small 
parties  of  Esquimaux. 

On  the  19th  Mr.  Wentzel  departed  on  his  return  for 
Slave  Lake,  taking  with  him  four  Canadians,  who  had 
been  discharged  for  the  purpose  of  reducintj  the  expen- 
diture of  provisions  as  much  as  possible,  and.  dispatches 
to  be  forwarded  to  England.  He  was  also  instructed 
to  cause  the  Indians  to  deposit  a  relay  of  provisions  at 
Fort  Enterprise,  ready  for  the  party  should  they  return 
that  way.  The  remainder  of  the  party,  including  otti- 
cers,  amounted  to  twenty  persons.  The  distance  tliat 
had  been  traversed  from  I  ort  Enterprise  to  the  mouth 
of  the  river  was  about  334  miles,  and  the  canoes  had  to 
be  dragged  120  miles  of  this. 

Two  conspicuous  capes  were  named  by  Franklin  after 
Hearne  and  Mackenzie  ;  and  a  river  which  falls  into  the 
sea,  to  the  westward  of  the  Copj)erminc,  he  called  after 
his  companion,  Richardson. 

On  the  21st  of  July,  Franklin  and  his  party  embarked 
in  their  two  canoes  to  navigate  the  Polar  Sea,  to  the 
eastward,  having  with  them  provisions  for  fifteen  days. 

On  the  25th  they  doubled  a  blutf  cape,  which  was 
named  after  Mr.  Barrow,  of  the  Admiralty.  An  open- 
ing on  its  eastern  side  received  the  appellation  of  Inman 
Harbor,  and  a  group  of  islands  were  called  after  Pro- 
fessor Jameson.  "Within  the  next  fortniglit,  additions 
were  made  to  their  stock  of  food  by  a  few  deer  and  one 
or  two  bears,  whicli  were  shot.  Peing  less  fortunate 
afterward,  and  with  no  prospect  of  increasing  their  sup- 
ply of  provision,  the  daily  allowance  to  each  man  Mas 
limited  to  a  handful  of  peijimican  and  a  small  portion 
of  portable  soup. 


franklin's   Fir.ST   LAND   EXPEDITION. 


n 


elf  with 

^rs,  and 
11  on  the 
ey,  and, 
mate  in 

sea  from 

ice  and 

th  small 

turn  for 
vho  had 
3  expen- 
spatches 
structed 
ibions  at 
y  return 
ing  otti- 
ice  that 
3  mouth 
had  to 

in  after 

linto  the 

d  after 

Ibarked 

to  tlie 

[i  days. 

;h  was 

open- 

llnnuin 

r  I'ro- 

[litions 

id  one 

unate 

ir  sup- 

jn  was 

lortion 


On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  August  they  came  to 
tlie  mouth  of  a  river  blocked  up  with  shoals,  which 
Franklin  named  after  his  friend  and  companion  Back. 

The  time  spent  in  exploring  Arctic  and  Melville 
Pounds  and  Bathurst  Inlet,  and  the  failure  of  meeting 
\.  ith  Esquimaux  from  whom  provisions  could  be  ol> 
tained,  precluded  any  possibility  of  reaching  Repulse 
Bay,  and  tlierefore  having  but  a  day  or  two's  provisions 
lef,  Franklin  considered  it  prudent  to  turn  back  after 
reaching  Point  Turnagain,  having  sailed  nearly  600 
geograplncal  miles  in  tracing  the  deeply  indented  coast 
of  Coronation  Gulf  from  the  Coppermine  River.  On 
the  22d  August,  the  return  voyage  was  commenced, 
tlie  boats  making  for  Hood's  River  by  the  way  of  the 
.  Arctic  Sound,  and  being  taken  as  far  up  the  stream  as 
possible.  On  the  31st  it  was  found  impossible  to  pro- 
ceed with  them  farther,  and  smaller  canoes  were  made, 
suitable  for  crossing  any  of  the  rivers  that  might  ob- 
struct tlieir  progress.  The  weight  carried  by  each  man 
was  about  90  lbs.,  and  with  this  they  progressed  at  the 
rate  of  a  mile  an  hour,  including  rests. 

On  the  5th  of  September,  having  nothing  to  eat,  the 
last  piece  of  pemmican  and  a  little  arrow-root  having 
formed  a  scanty  supper,  and  being  without  the  means 
of  making  a  fire,  they  remained  in  bed  all  day.  A  se- 
vere snow-storm  lasted  two  days,  and  the  snow  even 
drifted  into  their  tents,  covering  their  blankets  several 
inches.  "  Our  suffering  (says  Franklin)  from  cold,  in  a 
comfortless  canvass  tent  in  such  weather,  with  the  tem- 
perature at  20°,  and  without  fire,  will  easily  be  im- 
agined ;  it  was,  however,  less  than  that  whicn  we  felt 
from  hunger." 

Weak  from  fasting,  and  their  garme^^ts  stiffened  with 
the  frost,  after  packing  their  frozen  tents  and  bedclothes 
the  poor  travelers  again  set  out  on  the  7th. 

After  feeding  almost  exclusively  on  several  species 
of  Gyrophora,  a  lichen  known  as  tripe  de  roc/te,  which 
scarcely  allayed  the  pangs  of  hunger,  on  the  10th  "  they 
got  a  good  meal  by  killing  a  musk  ox.  To  skin  and 
cut  up  the  animal  was  the  work  of  a  few  minutes.    The 


73 


PEOGKESS   OF   AKCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


\fl 


lll'r 


contents  of  its  stomach  were  devoured  upon  the  spot, 
and  the  raw  intestines,  which  were  next  attacked,  were 
pronounced  by  the  most  delicate  amongst  us  to  be  ex- 
cellent." 

Wearied  and  worn  out  with  toil  and  suftering,  many 
of  the  paity  got  careless  and  indifferent.  One  of  the 
canoes  was  broken  and  abandoned.  With  an  improvi- 
dence scarcely  to  be  credited,  three  of  the  fishiug-n^ts 
were  also  thrown  away,  and  the  floats  burnt. 

On  the  17th  they  managed  to  allay  tlie  pangs  of  hun- 
ger by  eating  pieces  of  singed  hide,  and  a  little  tn'pe  de 
roche.  This  and  some  mosses,  with  an  occasional  sol- 
itary partridge,  formed  their  invariable  food ;  on  very 
many  days  even  this  scanty  suj)ply  could  not  be  obtained, 
and  their  appetites  became  ravenous. 

Occasionally  tliey  picked  up  pieces  of  skin,  and  a 
few  bones  of  deer  which  had  been  devoured  by  the 
wolves  in  the  previous  spring.  The  bones  were  ren- 
dered friable  by  burning,  and  now  and  then  their  old 
shoes  were  added  to  the  repast. 

On  the  26th  they  reached  a  bend  of  the  Coppermine, 
which  terminated  in  Point  Lake.  The  second  canoe 
had  been  demolished  and  abandoned  by  the  bearers  on 
tlie  23d,  and  they  were  thus  left  without  any  means  of 
water  transport  across  the  lakes  and  river. 

On  this  day  the  carcass  of  a  deer  was  discovered  in 
the  cleft  of  a  rock,  into  which  it  had  fallen  in  the  spring. 
It  was  putrid,  but  little  less  acceptable  to  the  poor  starv- 


ing travelers  on  that  account;  and 


a  fire  being  kin- 


dled a  large  portion  was  devoured  on  the  spot,  afford- 
ing an  unexpected  breakfast. 

On  tlie  first  of  October  one  of  the  party,  who  had 
been  out  hunt'  ig,  bronght  in  the  antlers  and  backbone 
of  another  deer,  which  had  been  killed  in  the  summer. 
The  wolves  and  birds  of  prey  had  picked  them  clean, 
but  there  still  remained  a  quantity  of  the  spinal  mar- 
row, which  they  had  not  been  able  to  extract.  This, 
although  putrid,  was  esteemed  a  valuable  prize,  and 
the  spine  being  divided  into  portions  was  distributed 
equally.      "  After  eating  the  marrow,  (says  Franklin,) 


franklin's    first    land    KXrEDITION. 


73 


the  spot, 
ked,  were 
to  be  ex- 


ng,  many 
tie  of  the 

*'^^m 

iniprovi- 
hing-n^ts 

'^^^H 

^s  of  hun- 

wSk 

B  tnpe  de 
ional  sol- 

^^1 

;  on  very 

obtained, 

in,  and  a* 

d  by  the 

■'('^^^^l 

were  ren- 

'^^5? 

their  old 

<l 

)permine, 
nd  canoe 

J 

earers  on 

means  of 

^£^^1 

)veied  in 

*  ''fll^l 

le  spring. 

oor  starv- 

eing  kin- 

)t,  aftbrd- 

J 

wlio  had 

backbone 

Slimmer. 

sm  clean. 

' 

nal  mar- 

■j 

t.    This, 

rize,  and 

"i 

^tribnted 

ranklin,) 

which  was  so  acrid  as  to  excoriate  the  lips,  we  ren- 
dered the  bones  friable  by  burning,  and  ate  them  also." 

The  strength  of  the  whole  party  now  began  to  fail, 
from  the  privation  and  fatigue  which  they  endured. — 
Tranklinwas  in  a  dreadfully  debilitated  state.  Mr. 
Hood  was  also  reduced  to  a  perfect  shadow,  from  the 
severe  bowel-complaints  which  the  tripe  de  roclie  never 
failed  to  give  him.  Back  was  so  feeble  as  to  require 
the  support  of  a  stick  in  walking,  and  Dr.  Kichardson 
had  lameness  superadded  to  weakness. 

A  rude  canoe  was  constructed  of  willows,  covered 
with  canvass,  in  which  the  party,  one  by  one,  managed 
to  reach  in  safety  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  on 
the  4th  of  October,  and  went  supperless  to  bed.  On 
the  following  morning,  previous  to  setting  out,  the 
whole  party  ate  the  remains  of  their  old  shoes,  and 
whatever  scraps  of  leather  they  had,  to  strengthen  their 
stomachs  for  the  fatigue  of  the  day's  journey. 

Mr.  Hood  now  broke  down,  as  did  two  or  three  more 
of  the  party,  and  Dr.  Richardson  kindly  volunteered 
to  remain  with  them,  while  the  rest  pushed  on  to  Fort 
Enterprise  for  succor.  Not.  being  able  to  find  any  tripe 
de  roohe^  they  drank  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea- 
plant  {Ledruin  palustre^  var.  decurnhens^  and  ate  a 
few  morsels  of  burnt  leather  for  supper.  "This  contin- 
ued to  be  a  frequent  occurrence. 

Others  of  the  party  continued  to  drop  down  with  fa- 
tigue and  weakness,  until  they  were  reduced  to  five 
persons,  besides  Franklin.  When  they  had  no  food  or 
nourishment  of  any  kind,  they  crept  under  their  blank- 
ets, to  drown,  if  possible,  the  gnawing  pangs  of  hunger 
and  fatigue  by  sleep.  At  length  they  reached  Fort  En- 
terprise, and  to  their  disappointment  and  grief  found 
it  a  perfectly  desolate  habitation.  There  was  no  de- 
posit of  provision,  no  trace  of  the  Indians,  no  letter 
from  Mr.  Wentzel  to  point  out  where  the  Indians  might 
be  found.  "It  would  be  impossible  (says  Franklin,)  to 
describe  our  sensations  after  entering  this  miserable 
abode,  and  discovering  how  we  had  been  neglected  : 
the  whole  party  shed  tears,  not  so  much  for  our  own 


I 
I 

I 


74 


PK0GRE8S   OF  AKCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


fate  as  for  that  of  our  friends  in  the  rear,  whose  lives 
depended  entirely  on  our  sending  immediate  relief 
from  this  place."  A  note,  however,  was  found  here 
from  Mr.  Back,  stating  that  he  had  reached  the  house 
by  another  route  two  days  before,  and  was  going  in 
search  of  the  Indians.  If  he  was  unsuccessful  in  hnd- 
ing  them,  he  proposed  walking  to  Fort  Providence, 
and  sending  succor  from  thence,  but  he  doubted  whether 
he  or  his  party  could  perform  the  journey  to  that  place 
in  their  present  debilitated  state.  Franklin  and  his 
small  party  now  looked  round  for  some  means  of  pres- 
ent subsistence,  and  fortunately  discovered  several  deer 
skins,  which  had  been  thrown  away  during  their  former 
residence  here.  The  bones  were  gathered  from  the 
heap  of  ashes ;  these,  with  the  skins  and  the  addition 
of  tripe  de  roche^  they  considered  would  support  life 
tolerably  well  for  a  short  time.  The  bones  were  quite 
acrid,  and  the  soup  extracted  from  them,  quite  putrid, 
excoriated  the  mouth  if  taken  alone,  but  it  was  some- 
what milder  when  boiled  with  the  lichen,  and  the  mix- 
ture was  even  deemed  palatable  with  a  little  salt,  of 
which  a  cask  had  been  left  here  in  the  spring.  They 
procured  fuel  by  pulling  up  the  flooring  of  the  rooms, 
and  water  for  cooking  by  melting  the  snow. 

Augustus  arrived  safe  after  them,  just  as  they  were 
sitting  round  the  fire  eating  their  supper  of  singed 
skin. 

Late  on  the  13th,  Belanger  also  reached  the  house, 
with  a  note  from  Mr.  Back,  stating  that  he  had  yet 
found  no  trace  of  the  Indians.  The  poor  messenger 
was  almost  speechless,  being  covered  with  ice  and 
nearly  frozen  to  death,  having  fallen  into  a  rapid,  and 
for  the  third  time  Bince  the  party  left  the  coast,  narrowly 
escaped  drowning.  After  being  well  rubbed,  having 
had  his  dress  changed,  and  some  wann  soup  given 
him,  he  recovered  sufficiently  to  answer  the  questions 
put  to  him. 

Under  the  impression  that  the  Indians  must  be  on 
their  way  to  Fort  Providence,  and  that  it  would  be 
possible  to  overtake  them,  as  they  usually  traveled 


franklin's  FmST  LAND  EXPEDITION. 


75 


slowly  with  their  families,  and  there  being  likewise  a 
prospect  of  killing  deer  about  Reindeer  Lake,  where 
they  had  been  usually  found  abundant,  Franklin  de- 
termined to  take  the  route  for  that  post,  and  sent  word 
to  Mr.  Back  by  Belanger  to  that  effect  on  the  18th. 

On  the  20th  of  October,  Franklin  set  out  in  com- 
pany with  Benoit  and  Augustus  to  seek  relief,  having 
patched  three  pairs  of  snow  shoes,  and  taken  some 
singed  skin  for  their  support.  Poltier  and  Samandre 
had  volunteered  to  remain  at  the  house  with  Adam, 
who  was  too  ill  to  proceed.  They  were  so  feeble  as 
scarcely  to  be  able  to  move.  Augustus,  the  Esqui- 
maux, tried  for  fish  without  success,  so  that  their  only 
fare  was  skin  and  tea.  At  night,  composing  them- 
selves to  rest,  they  lay  close  to  each  other  for  warmth, 
but  found  the  night  bitterly  cold,  and  the  wind  pierced 
through  their  famished  frames. 

On  resuming  the  journey  next  morning,  Franklin 
had  the  misfortune  to  break  his  snow-shoes,  by  falling 
between  two  rocks.  This  accident  prevented  him  from 
keeping  pace  with  the  others,  and  in  the  attempt  he 
became  quite  exhausted ;  unwilling  to  delay  their  pro- 
gress, as  the  safety  of  all  behind  depended  on  their 
obtaining  early  assistance  and  immediate  supplies, 
Franklin  resolved  to  turn  back,  while  the  others 
pushed  on  to  meet  Mr.  Back,  or,  missing  him,  they 
were  directed  to  proceed  to  Fort  Provid  3nce.  Frank- 
lin found  the  two  Canadians  he  had  left  at  the  house 
dreadfully  weak  and  reduced,  and  so  low  spirited  that 
he  had  great  difficulty  in  rallying  them  to  any  exer- 
tion. As  the  insides  of  their  mouths  had  become  sore 
from  eating  the  bone-soup,  they  now  relinquished  the 
use  of  it,  and  boiled  the  skin,  which  mode  of  dressing 
was  found  more  palatable  than  frying  it.  They  had 
pulled  down  nearly  all  their  dwelling  for  fuel,  to  warm 
themselves  and  cook  their  scanty  meals.  The  tripe 
de  roche^  on  which  they  had  depended,  now  became 
entirely  frozen;  and  what  was  more  tantalizing  to 
their  perishing  frames,  was  the  sight  of  food  within 
their  reach,  which  they  could  not  procure.    "  We  saw 


76 


PEOGEESS   OF  AECTIO  DISCOVERT. 


(says  Franklin)  a  herd  of  reindeer  sporting  on  tho 
river,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  house ;  they  re- 
mained there  a  long  time,  but  none  of  the  party  felt 
themselves  strong  enough  to  go  after  them,  nor  was 
there  one  of  us  who  could  have  fired  a  gun  without 
resting  it." 

While  they  were  seated  round  the  fire  this  evening, 
discoursing  about  the  anticipated  relief,  the  sound  of 
voices  was  heard,  which  was  thought  with  joy  to  be 
that  of  the  Indians,  but,  to  their  bitter  disappoint- 
ment, the  debilitated  frames  and  emaciated  counte- 
nances of  Dr.  Kichardson  and  Hepburn  presented 
themselv^es  at  the  door.  They  were  of  course  gladly 
received,  although  each  marked  the  ravages  which  fam- 
ine, care  and  fatigue  had  made  on  the  other.  The 
Doctor  particularly  remarked  the  sepulchral  tone  of 
the  voices  of  his  friends,  which  he  requested  them  to 
make  more  cheerful  if  possible,  unconscious  that  his 
own  partook  of  the  same  key. 

Hepburn  having  shot  a  partridge,  which  was  brought 
to  the  house,  Dr.  Richardson  tore  out  the  feathers, 
and  having  held  it  to  the  fire  a  few  minutes,  divided 
it  into  six  portions.  Franklin  and  his  three  compan- 
ions ravenously  devoured  their  shares,  as  it  was  the 
first  morsel  of  flesh  any  of  them  had  tasted  for  thirty- 
one  days,  unless,  indeed,  the  small  gristly  particles 
which  they  found  adhering  to  the  pounded  bones  may 
be  termed  flesh.  Their  spirits  were  revived  by  this 
small  oupply,  and  the  Doctor  endeavored  to  raise 
them  still  higher  by  the  prospect  of  Hepburn's  being 
able  to  kill  a  deer  next  day,  as  they  had  seen,  and 
even  fired  at,  several  near  the  house.  He  endeavored, 
too,  to  rouse  them  into  some  attention  to  the  comfort 
of  their  apartment.  Having  brought  his  Prayer-book 
and  Testament,  some  prayers,  psalms,  and  portions 
of  scripture,  appropriate  to  their  situation,  were  read 
out  by  Dr.  Eichardson,  and  they  retired  to  their 
blankets. 

Early  next  morning,  the  Doctor  and  Hepburn  went 
out  in  search  of  ijame :  but  thou<i'h  they  saw  several 


franklin's  first  land  expedition. 


77 


herds  of  deer,  and  fired  some  shots,  they  were  not  so 
fortunate  as  to  kill  any,  being  too  weak  to  hold  their 
guns  steadily.  The  cold  compelled  the  former  to  re- 
turn soon,  but  Hepburn  perseveringly  persisted  until 
late  in  the  evening. 

"  My  occupation,  (continues  Franklin)  was  to  search 
for  skins  under  the  snow,  it  being  now  our  object  im- 
mediately to  get  all  that  we  could ;  but  I  had  not 
strength  to  drag  in  more  than  two  of  those  which  were 
within  twenty  yards  of  the  iiouse.  until  the  Doctor 
came  and  assisted  me.  We  made  up  our  stock  to 
twenty-six;  but  several  of  them  were  putrid,  and 
scarcely  eatable,  even  by  men  suffering  the  extremity 
of  famine.  Peltier  and  Samandre  continued  very 
weak  and  dispirited,  and  they  were  unable  to  cut  fire- 
wood. Hepburn  had,  in  consequence,  that  laborious 
task  to  perform  after  he  came  back  late  from  hunting." 
To  the  exertions,  lionesty,  kindness,  and  consideration 
of  this  worthy  man,  the  safety  of  most  of  the  party  is 
to  be  attributed.  And  I  may  here  mention  that  Sir 
John  Franklin,  when  he  became  governor  of  Yan 
Diemen's  Land,  obtained  for  him  a  good  civil  appioint- 
ment.  This  deserving  man,  I  am  informed  by  Mr. 
Barrow,  is  now  in  England,  having  lost  his  oflice, 
which,  I  believe,  has  been  abolished.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  something  will  be  done  for  him  by  the  govern- 
ment. 

After  their  usual  supper  of  singed  skin  and  bone 
soup.  Dr.  Richardson  acquainted  Franklin  with  the 
events  that  had  transpired  since  their  parting,  particu- 
larly with  the  afflicting  circumstances  attending  the 
death  of  Mr.  Hood,  and  Michel,  the  Iroquois  ;  the  par- 
ticulars of  which  I  shall  now  proceed  to  condense  from 
his  narrative. 

After  Captain  Franklin  had  bidden  them  farewell, 
having  no  tripe  de  roche  they  drank  an  infusion  of  the 
country  tea-plant,  which  was  grateful  from  its  warmth, 
although  it  afforded  no  sustenance.  They  then  retired 
to  bed,  and  kept  to  their  blankets  all  next  day,  as  the 
snow  drift  was  so  heavy  as  to  prevent  their  lighting  a 


--*.i 


rs 


PROGRESS   OF   AROTIO   DISCOVERY. 


fire  with  the  green  and  frozen  willows,  which  were 
their  only  fuel. 

Through  the  extreme  kindness  and  forethought  of 
a  lady,  the  party,  previous  to  leaving  London,  had 
been  furnished  with  a  small  collection  of  religious 
books,  of  which,  (says  Richardson,)  we  still  retained 
two  or  three  of  the  most  portable,  and  they  proved  of 
incalculable  benefit  to  us. 

"  ViTe  read  portions  of  them  to  each  other  as  we  lay 
in  bed,  in  addition  to  the  morning  and  evening  service, 
and  found  that  they  inspired  us  on  "  "h  perusal  with 
so  strong  a  sense  of  the  omnipresence  of  a  beneficent 
God,  that  our  situation,  even  in  these  wilds,  appeared 
no  longer  destitute ;  and  we  conversed  not  only  with 
calmness,  but  with  cheerfulness,  detailing  with  unre- 
strained confidence  the  past  events  of  our  lives,  and 
dwelling  with  hope  on  our  future  prospects."  How 
beautiful  a  picture  have  we  here  represented,  of  true 
piety  and  resignation  to  the  divine  will  inducing  pa- 
tience and  submission  under  an  unexampled  load  of 
misery  and  privation. 

Michel,  the  Iroquois,  joined  them  on  the  9th  of  Oc- 
tober, having,  there  is  strong  reason  to  believe,  mur- 
dered two  of  the  Canadians  who  were  with  him,  Jean 
Baptiste  Belanger  and  Perrault,  as  they  were  never 
seen  afterward,  and  he  gave  so  many  rambling  and 
contradictory  statements  of  his  proceedings,  that  no 
credit  could  be  attached  to  his  story. 

The  travelers  proceeded  on  their  tedious  journey  by 
slow  stages.  Mr.  Hood  was  much  afi'ected  with  dim 
ness  of  sight,  giddiness,  and  other  symptoms  of  ex 
treme  debility,  which  caused  them  to  move  slowly  and 
to  make  frequent  halts.  Michel  absented  himself  all 
day  of  the  10th,  and  only  arrived  at  their  encampment 
near  the  pines  late  on  the  11th. 

He  reported  that  he  had  been  in  chase  of  some  deer 
which  passed  near  his  sleeping  place  in  the  morning, 
and  although  he  did  not  come  up  with  them,  yet  he 
found  a  wolf  which  had  been  killed  by  the  stroke  of 
a  deer's  horn,  and  had  brought  a  part  of  it. 


rhich  were 

ithougbt  of 
)ndon,  had 
f  religious 
ill  retained 
T  proved  of 

r  as  we  lay 
iiig  service, 
erusal  with 
beneficent 
1,  appeared 
;  only  with 
with  unre- 
lives,  and 
ts."  How 
ed,  of  true 
iucing  pa- 
ed  load  of 

9th  of  Oc- 
ieve,  mur- 
him,  Jean 
'ere  never 
bling  and 
s,  that  no 

ourney  by 
with  dim 
ms  of  ex 
owly  and 
imself  all 
ampment 

ome  deer 
morning, 
n,  yet  he 
stroke  of 


*      *■ 


■fl 


;!(■ 


* 


<»; 


•     » 


'^^^; 


fra_nklin'8  first  land  expedition. 


79 


Kichardson  adds  —  "We  implicitly  believed  this 
^tory  then,  but  afterward  became  aware  —  from  cir- 
cumstances, the  details  of  which  may  be  spared — that 
it  must  have  been  a  portion  of  the  body  of  Bel  anger, 
or  Perrault.  A  question  of  moment  here  presents  it- 
self—  namely,  whether  he  actually  murdered  these 
men,  or  either  of  them,  or  whether  he  found  the  bodies 
in  the  snow.  Captain  Franklin,  who  is  .  he  best  able  to 
judge  of  this  matter,  from  knowing  their  situation  when 
he  parted  from  them,  suggested  the  former  idea,  and 
that  both  these  men  had  been  sacrificed  ;  that  Michel, 
having  already  destroyed  Belanger,  com])leted  his 
crime  by  Perrault's  death,  in  order  to  screen  himself 
from  detection." 

Although  this  opinion  is  founded  only  on  circum- 
stances, and  is  unsupported  bv  direct  evidence,  it  has 
been  judged  proper  to  mention  it,  especially  as  the 
subsequent  conduct  of  the  man  showed  that  he  was 
capable  of  committing  such  a  deed.  It  is  not  easy  to 
assign  any  other  adequate  motive  for  his  concealing 
from  Richardson  that  Ferrault  had  turned  back;  while 
his  request,  over-night,  that  they  would  leave  him  the 
hatchet,  and  his  cumbering  himself  with  it  when  he 
went  out  in  the  morning,  unlike  a  hunter,  who  makes 
use  only  of  his  knife  when  he  kills  a  deer,  seem  to 
indicate  that  he  took  it  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  up 
Bomething  that  he  knew  to  be  frozen. 

Michel  left  them  early  next  day,  refusing  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson's offer  to  accompany  him,  and  remamed  out  all 
day.  He  would  not  sleep  in  the  tent  with  the  other 
two  at  night.  On  the  13th,  there  being  a  heavy  ajale, 
they  passed  the  day  by  tlieir  fire,  without  food.  Kext 
day,  at  noon,  Micliel  set  out,  as  he  said,  to  hunt,  but 
returned  unexpectedly  in  a  short  time.  This  conduct 
surprised  his  companions,  and  his  contradictory  and 
evasive  answers  to  their  questions  excited  tlieir  sus- 
picions still  further.  He  subsequently  refused  either 
to  hunt  or  cut  wood,  spoke  in  a  very  ^urly  manner, 
and  threatened  to  leave  them.  When  reasoned  with 
by  Mr.  Hood,  his  anger  was  excited,  and  he  replied  it 

4" 


80 


ruoGUKL^a  OF  Aic(riio  disuovku 


h^  was  no  uso  Inintinn:  —  tliore  were  no  animals,  and  tljey 
Lad  bettor  kill  and  eat  liini. 

*'At  tliiri  ])ei'i<>d,"  observes  Dr.  Kiclinrdson,  "we 
avoided,  as  niueh  as  ])()8Hible,  conversing  upon  the 
liopelessness  of  our  situation,  and  generally  endeav- 
ored to  lead  the  conversation  toward  our  future  })ros- 
])ect8  in  life.  The  fact  is,  that  with  the  decay  of  r)ur 
Btrenji;th,  our  minds  decayed,  and  we  were  no  loii«^er 
able  to  bear  the  conteni])lation  of  the  horrors  that  sur- 
rounded us.  Yet  we  were  calm  and  resijjjned  to  our 
fate  ;  not  a  murmur  escaped  us,  and  we  were  ]>unctual 
and  fervent  in  our  addresses  to  the  Supreme  lleini;." 

On  the  morning  of  the  20th,  they  ugain  urged  Michel 
to  go  a-hunting,  that  he  might,  if  jnissible,  leave  them 
some  provision,  as  he  intended  quitting  them  next 
day,  but  he  showed  great  unwillingness  to  go  out,  and 
lingered  about  the  tire  under  the  ]»retense  of  cleaning 
his  gun.  After  the  morning  service  had  been  read, 
Dr.  llicliardson  went  out  to  gather  some  trtpc  de  roche^ 
leaving  Mr.  Hood  sitting  before  the  tent  at  the  lire* 
Bide,  arguing  with  Michel;  Hepburn  was  employed 
cutting  tire-wood.  AVMiile  thev  were  thus  engaijed, 
the  treacherous  Iroquois  took  the  opportunity  to  place 
his  gun  close  to  Mr.  Hood,  and  shoot  him  through  the 
head.  He  reju'esented  to  his  companions  tiuit  the  de- 
ceased had  killed  himself  On  exanjination  of  the 
bodv,  it  was  found  tluit  the  shot  had  entered  the  back 
part  of  the  head  and  passed  out  at  the  forehead,  and 
that  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  had  been  applied  so  close 
as  to  set  tire  to  the  nightcap  behind.  !M.ichel  pro- 
tested his  innocence  of  the  crime,  and  Hepburn  and 
Dr.  Richardson  dared  not  openly  evince  their  8us}>i 
cion  of  his  guilt. 

Next  day,  Dr.  Richardson  determined  on  goin<i 
straight  to  the  Fort.  They  singed  the  hair  otf  a  pari 
of  the  butfalo  robe  that  belonged  to  their  ill-fated  com 
panion,  and  boiled  and  ate  it.  In  the  course  of  theii 
march,  Michel  alarmed  them  much  by  his  gesture! 
and  conduct,  was  constantly  muttering  to  himself,  ex 
pressed  an  unwillingness  to  go  to  the" Fort,  and  tried 


rUANKMN  8   FIRST  T,ANT)   FXPFDITION. 


SI 


to  persuade  tliern  to  go  Houtliwanl  to  tlio  woods,  wlicro 
he  >*aid  he  could  maintain  hiniselt'  all  the  winter  by 
killiiij^f  deer.  *'  In  eonsefpienco  of  tlii?^  behavior,  and 
the  expression  of  liis  countenance,  [  refjuested  iuin 
(says  Kiciiardson)  to  leave  us,  and  to  ^o  to  the  south- 
ward by  himself.  This  ])roj)osal  increased  his  ill-na- 
ture;  lio  threw  out  some  obscure  hints  of  freeinj^ 
himself  from  all  restraint  on  the  morrow;  and  I  over- 
heard him  mutterintr  tiireats  against  Hepburn,  whom 
he  ojHMily  accused  of  having  told  stories  against  him. 
He  also,  for  the  first  time,  assumed  such  a  tone  of 
6uj)eriority  in  addressing  me,  as  evinced  that  he  con- 
sidered us  to  be  completely  in  his  ]>ower  ;  andlie  gave 
vent  to  several  ex})ressi()n8  of  hatred  toward  the  white 
i)eople,  some  of  whom,  ho  said,  had  killed  and  eaten 
ins  uncle  and  two  of  his  relaticms.  In  short,  taking 
every  circumstance  of  his  conduct  into  consideration, 
I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  lie  would  uttem})t  to 
destroy  us  on  the  first  o])poi'tunity  that  otl'ered,  and 
that  lie  had  hitherto  abstained  from  doing  so  from  his 
ignorance  of  his  way  to  the  Fort,  but  that  he  would 
never  suffer  us  to  go  thither  in  company  with  him. 
Hepburn  and  I  were  not  in  a  condition  to  resist  even 
an  open  attack,  nor  could  we  by  any  device  esca])e 
from  him  —  our  united  strength  was  far  inferior  to  his; 
and,  beside  his  gun,  he  w^as  armed  with  two  pistols, 
an  Indian  bayonet,  and  a  knife. 

"In  the  afternoon,  coming  to  a  rock  on  which  there 
was  some  trrpe  dc  roche,  he  halted,  and  said  he  would 
gather  it  wdiilo  we  "went  on,  and  that  he  M'ould  soon 
overtake  us. 

"  Hepburn  and  I  were  now  left  together  for  the  first 
time  since  Mr.  Hood's  death,  and  ho  acquainted  me  with 
several  material  circumstances,  which  he  had  observed 
of  Michel's  behavior,  and  which  coniirnied  me  in  the 
opinion  that  there  was  no  safety  for  us  except  in  his 
death,  and  ho  offered  to  be  the  instrument  of  it.  I  de- 
termined, however,  as  I  was  thoroughly  convinced  of 
the  necessity  of  such  a  dreadful  act,  to  take  the  wholo 
responsibility  upon  myself;  and  immediately  upon  Mi- 


!'; 


it  ■ 


PEOGEESS   OF  AEOTIC  DISCOVEET. 


cbel's  coming  up,  I  put  an  end  to  his  life  by  shooting 
him  through  the  head  with  a  pistol.  Had  my  own  life 
alone  been  threatened,"  observes  Ilichardson,  in  conclu- 
sion, "  1  would  not  have  purchased  it  by  such  a  measure, 
but  I  considered  myself  as  intrusted  also  with  the  pro- 
tection of  Hepburn's,  a  man  who,  by  his  humane  atten- 
tions and  devotedness,  had  so  endeared  himself  to  me, 
that  I  felt  more  anxiety  for  his  safety  than  for  my  own. 

"  Michel  had  gathered  no  tripe  dc  roche^  and  it  was  evi- 
dent to  us  that  he  had  halted  for  the  purjDose  of  putting 
his  gun  in  order  with  the  intention  of  attacking  us  — 
perhaps  while  we  were  in  the  act  of  encamping." 

Persevering  onward  in  their  journey  as  well  as  the 
snow  storms  and  their  feeble  limbs  would  permit,  they 
saw  se\  eral  herds  of  deer  ;  but  Hepburn,  who  used  to 
be  a  good  marksman,  was  now  unable  to  hold  the  gun 
straight.  Following  the  track  of  a  wolverine  which  had 
been  dragging  something,  he  however  found  the  spine 
of  a  deer  which  it  had  dropped.  It  was  clean  picked, 
and  at  least  one  season  old,  but  they  extracted  the  spinal 
marrow  from  it. 

A  species  of  cornicularia^  a  kind  of  lichen,  was  also 
met  with,  that  was  found  good  to  eat  when  moistened 
and  toasted  over  tlie  fire.  They  had  still  some  pieces 
of  siuf^ed  buffalo  hide  remaining,  and  Hepburn,  on 
one  occasion,  killed  a  partridge,  after  firing  several 
times  at  a  flock.  About  dusk  of  the  29th  they  reached 
the  Fort. 

"  Ul^on  entering  the  desolate  dwelling,  we  had  the 
satisfaction  of  embracing  Ca])t.  Franklin,  but  no  words 
can  convey  an  idea  of  the  filth  and  wretchedness  that 
met  our  eyes  on  looking  around.  Our  own  misery  had 
stolen  upon  us  by  degrees,  and  we  were  accustomed  to 
the  contem])lation  of  each  other's  emaciated  figures ; 
but  the  ghastly  countenances,  dilated  eye-balls,  and 
sepulchral  voices  of  Captain  Franklin  and  those  with 
him  were  more  than  we  could  at  first  bear." 

Thus  ends  tlie  narrative  of  Richardson's  journey. 

To  resume  the  detail  of  proceedings  at  the  Fort.  On 
the  1st  of  November  two  of  the  Canadians,  Peltier  and 
Samandre,  died  from  sheer  exhaustion. 


franklin's  first  land  expedition. 


83 


ibooting 
own  life 
L  coiiclu- 
neasure, 
the  pro- 
lie  atten- 
[f  to  me, 
my  own. 
;  was  evi- 
['  putting 
ing  us  — 

cr." 

ill  as  the 
mit,  they 
3  used  to 
[  the  gun 
diich  had 
the  spine 
in  picked, 
bhe  spinal 

was  also 
noistened 
tne  pieces 
►burn,  on 
several 
reached 

had  the 

no  words 

Iness  that 

[isery  had 

itemed  to 

figures ; 
^alls,  and 
hose  with 

lirney. 
fort.     On 
iltier  and 


On  the  7th  of  November  they  w^ere  relieved  from 
their  privations  and  sufferings  by  the  arrival  of  three 
Indians,  bringing  a  supply  of  dried  meat,  some  fat,  and 
a  few  tongues,  which  had  been  sent  off  by  Back  with 
all  haste  from  Akaitcho's  encampment  on  the  5th. 
These  Indians  nursed  and  attended  them  witli  the 
greatest  care,  cleansed  the  house,  collected  fire-wood, 
and  studied  every  means  for  their  general  comfort.  Their 
sufferings  were  now  at  an  end.  On  the  20th  of  Novem- 
ber they  arrived  at  the  encampment  of  the  Indian  chief, 
Akaitcho.  On  the  6th  of  December  Belanger  and  an- 
other Canadian  arrived,  bringing  further  supplies,  and 
letters  from  England,  from  Mr.  Back,  and  their  former 
companion,  Mr.  Wentzel. 

The  dispatches  from  England  announced  the  success- 
ful termination  of  Captain  Parry's  voyage,  and  the  pro- 
motion of  Captain  Franklin,  Mr.  Back,  and  of  poor  Mr. 
Hood. 

On  the  18th  they  reached  tlie  Hudson's  Bay  Compa- 
ny's establishment  at  Moose  Deer  Island,  where  they 
joined  their  friend  Mr.  Back.  They  remained  at  Fort 
Chipewyan  until  June  of  the  following  year. 

It  is  now  necessary  to  relate  the  story  of  Mr,  Back's 
journey,  wliich,  like  the  rest,  is  a  sad  tale  of  suffering 
and  privation. 

Having  been  directed,  on  the  4th  of  October,  1821, 
to  proceed  with  St.  Germain,  Belanger,  and  Beaupar- 
lant  to  Fort  Enterprise,  in  the  hopes  of  obtaining  relief 
for  the  party,,  he  set  out.  Up  to  the  7th  they  met  with 
a  little  t/'ipe  de  roclie^  but  this  failing  them  they  were 
compelled  to  satisfy,  or  rather  allay,  the  cravings  of 
hunger,  by  eating  a  gun-cover  and  a  pair  of  old  shoes. 
The  grievous  disappointment  experienced  on  arriving 
at  the  house,  and  finding  it  a  deserted  ruin,  cannot  be 
told. 

"Without  the  assistance  of  the  Indians,  bereft  of 
%yQ^'^J  resource,  we  felt  ourselves,"  says  Mr.  Back,  "  re- 
duced to  the  most  miserable  state,  which  was  rendered 
stil'  worse  from  tlie  recollection  that  our  friends  in  tho 
rear  were  as.  miserable  as  ourselves.    For  the  moment, 


# 


.. 


iil .' 


84 


PKOGRKSS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVKRT. 


however,  Ininger  prevailed,  and  each  be^an  to  gnaw 
the  scraps  of  putrid  and  frozen  meat  and  skin  that  were 
lying  al)out,  without  waiting  to  prepare  them."  A  fire 
was,  however,  aftei'ward  made,  and  the  neck  and  bones 
of  a  deer  found  in  the  house  were  boiled  and  devoured. 

After  resting  a  day  at  tlie  house,  Mr.  Back  pushed  on 
with  his  companions  in  search  of  the  Indians,  leaving  a 
note  for  Captain  Franklin,  informing  him  if  he  failed  in 
meeting  with  the  Indians,  he  intended  to  push  on  for 
the  lirst  trading  establishment  —  distant  about  130 
miles  —  and  send  ns  succor  from  thence.  On  the  11th 
he  set  out  on  the  journey,  a  few  old  skins  having  been 
first  collected  to  serve  as  food. 

On  the  13tli  and  14th  of  October  they  had  nothing 
whatever  to  eat.  Belanger  was  sent  off  with  a  note  to 
Franklin.  On  the  15th  they  were  fortunate  enough  to 
fall  in  with  a  partridge,  the  bones  of  M'hich  were  eaten, 
and  the  remainder  reserved  for  bait  to  fish  with. 
Enough  tripe  de  roche  was,  however,  gathered  to  make 
a  meal.  Beauparlant  now  lingered  behind,  worn  out 
by  extreme  weakness.  On  the  17th  a  number  of  crows, 
perched  on  some  high  pines,  led  them  to  believe  that 
some  carrion  was  near;  and  on  searching,  several  heads 
of  deer,  lialf  buried  in  the  snow  and  ice,  without  eyes 
or  tongues,  were  found.  An  expression  of  "•  Oh,  merci- 
ful Gt)d,  we  are  saved,"  broke  from  them  bi>th  and  with 
feelings  more  easily  imagined  than  described,  they 
shook  hands,  not  knowing  what  to  say  for  joy. 

St.  Germain  was  sent  back,  to  bring  up  Beauiiailant, 
for  whose  safety  Back  became  very  anxious,  but  he 
found  the  jxjor  fellow  frozen  to  death. 

Tile  night  of  the  ITtli  was  cold  and  clear,  but  they 
could  get  no  sleej^.  "From  the  pains  (.)f  having  eaten, 
we  suffered  (observes  Back)  the  most  excruciating  tor- 
ments, though  I  in  particular  did  not  eat  a  (puirter  of 
what  would  have  satisfied  me  ;  it  might  have  liccn  from 
having  eaten  a  quantity  of  I'aw  or  frozen  sineM's  of  the 
legs  of  deer,  which  neither  of  us  could  avoid  doing,  so 
great  m'jis  our  hunger." 

On  tlie  followinu'  day  Belanger  retuj'ned  famishing 


parry's  first  voyage. 


85 


with  hunger,  and  told  of  the  pitiable  state  of  Franklin 
and  his  reduced  j^arty.  Back,  both  this  day  and  the 
next,  tried  to  urge  on  his  coni])anions  toward  tlie  object 
of  their  journey,  but  he  could  not  conquer  their  stub- 
born determinations.  They  said  they  were  unable  to 
pi'oceed  from  weakness  ;  knew  not  the  way  ;  that  JJack 
wanted  to  expose  them  again  to  death,  and  in  fact  loi- 
tered greedily  about  the  renmants  of  the  deer  till  the 
end  of  the  month.  "It  was  not  without  the  greatest 
dilHculty  that  I  could  restrain  the  men  from  eating  ev- 
ery scrap  they  found  ;  though  they  were  well  aware  of 
the  necessity  there  was  of  being  economical  in  our  pres- 
ent situation,  and  to  save  whatever  they  could  for  our 
journey,  yet  they  could  not  resist  the  temptation  ;  and 
whenever  my  back  was  turned  they  seldom  failed  'o 
snatch  at  the  nearest  piece  to  them,  whether  cooked  or 
raw.  Having  ct)llected  with  great  care,  and  by  self- 
denial,  two  small  packets  of  dried  meat  or  sinews  sutii- 
cient  (for  men  who  knew  what  it  was  to  fast)  t(.)  last  for 
eiglit  days,  at  the  rate  of  one  indifferent  meal  "per  day, 
they  set  out  on  the  30th.  On  the  3d  of  November  they 
came  on  the  track  of  Indians,  and  soon  reached  tiie 
tents  of  Akaitcho  and  his  followers,  when  food  was 
obtained,  and  assistance  sent  off  to  Franklin. 

In  July  they  reached  York  Factory.  ,'  om  whence 
thev  had  started  three  years  before,  nu'l  thus  terminated 
a  journey  of  .5550  miles,  during  which  ]\ainan  courage 
and  patience  were  exjjosed  to  trials  s.ich  as  few  can 
bear  with  fortitude,  unless,  a 3  i-i  so  m;  in  Frankliii's  in- 
teresting narrative,  ai'ising  out  of  reliance  on  the  ever- 
sustaining  care  of  an  Almighty  Providence. 

Parry's  First  Yoyage,  1819-1820. 

The  Admiralty  having  determined  to  continue  tho 
progress  of  discovery  in  the  Arctic  seas,  Lieut.  W,  E. 
Pa  r\-,  who  had  been  second  in  command  under  Capt. 
Poss,  in  the  voyage  of  the  previous  year,  was  selected 
to  take  chai'ge  of  a  new  (expedition,  consisting  of  the 
Ib'chi  and  Griper.  The  cliief  ol)ject  of  tliis  voyage  was 
to  pursue  the  survey  of  Lancaster  Sound,  and  decide 


,H>1      ; 


86 


PR0GEES8   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOYEJRY. 


('■ :  '*■ 


MM 


?  '    •  1  ( 


fi 


m 


on  the  probability  of  a  northwest  passage  in  that  d.«»  jc- 
tion ;  failing  in  which,  Smith's  and  Jones'  Sounds 
were  to  be  explored,  with  the  same  purpose  in  view. 

The  respective  officers  appointed  to  the  shiDS, 
were  — 

JTecla,  375  tons : 

Lieut,  and  Commander  —  W.  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenant  —  Fred.  W.  Beechey. 

Captain  —  E.  Sabine,  R.  A.,  Astronomer. 

Purser  —  W.  II.  Hooper. 

Surgeon  —  John  Edwards. 

Assistant  Surgeon  —  Alexander  Fisher. 

Midshipmen  —  James  Clarke  Eoss,  J.  Nias,  "W^.  J. 

Dealy,  Charles  Palmer,  John  Bushiian. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  J.  Allison,  master  ;   G.  Craw- 

furd,  mate. 
44:  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  58. 

Griper,  180  tons : 

Lieutenant  and  Commander  —  Matthew  Liddon. 
Lieutenant  —  II.  P.  Iloppner. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  C.  J.  Beverley. 
Midshiy^men  —  A.   Reid,   A.    M.    Skene,  "VV.    K. 

Griffiths. 
Greenland  Pilots  —  George  Fyfe,  master ;  A.  Elder, 

mate. 
28  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  36. 

The  ships  were  raised  upon,  strengthened,  and  well 
found  in  stores  and  provisions  for  two  years.  On  the 
11th  of  May,  1819,  they  got  away  from  the  Thames, 
and  after  a  fair  passage  fell  in  Math  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  ice  in  the  middle  of  Davis'  Straits  about  the 
20tli  of  June  ;  it  consisted  chiefly  of  fragments  of  ice- 
bergs, on  the  outskirts  of  the  glaciers  tiiut  form  along 
the  shore.  After  a  tedious  passage  through  tlie  floos 
of  ice,  effi'cted  chiefly  by  heaving  and  m  ju'})ing,  thoy 
arrivetl  at  Possession  Bav  on  tlie  niorniiio-  ot*  the  Slst 


II 


PARRY  8  FIKBT  VOYAGE. 


Sounds 
view, 
ships. 


3, 1^.  J. 
-.  Craw- 


idon. 
Elder, 


nd  well 
Oil  the 
Charaes, 
le  quaii- 
out  the 
5  of  i  ce- 
ll ah^no: 
le  floes 

10  3  iHt 


of  July,  being  just  a  month  earlier  than  they  were 
here  on  the  previous  year.  As  many  as  fifty  wliales 
were  seen  here  in  the  course  of  a  few  liours.  On  land- 
ing, they  were  not  a  little  astonished  to  find  their  own 
footprints  of  the  previous  year,  still  distinctly  visible  in 
the  snow.  During  an  excursion  of  three  or  four  miles 
into  the  interior,  a  fox,  a  raven,  several  ring-ploveis 
and  snow-buntings,  were  seen,  as  also  a  bee,  from  which 
it  may  be  inferred  that  honey  can  be  procured  even  in 
these  wild  regions.  Vegetation  flourishes  remarkably 
well  here,  considering  the  high  latitude,  for  wherever 
there  was  moisture,  tufts  and  various  ground  plants 
grew  in  considerable  abundance. 

Proceeding  on  from  hence  into  the  Sound,  they  veri- 
fled  the  02:)inioii  which  had  previously  been  entertained 
by  many  of  the  oflicers,  that  the  Croker  Mountains 
had  no  existence,  for  on  the  4th  of  August,  the  sliips 
were  in  long,  86°  56'  W.,  three  degrees  to  the  westward 
of  where  land  had  been  laid  down  by  Ross  in  the  pre- 
vious year.  The  strait  was  named  after  Sir  John  Bar- 
row, and  was  found  to  be  pretty  clear ;  but  on  reach- 
ing Leopold  Island,  the  ice  extended  in  a  compact  body 
to  the  north,  through  which  it  was  impossible  to  pene-  • 
trate.  liather  than  remnin  inactive,  waiting  for  the 
dissolution  of  the  ice,  Parry  determined  to  try  what 
could  be  done  by  shaping  his  course  to  the  southward, 
through  the  magniflcent  inlet  now  named  Regent  In- 
let. Vbout  the  6th  of  August,  in  consequence  of  the 
local  attraction,  the  ordinary  compasses  became  use- 
less from  their  great  variation,  and  the  binnacles  were 
removed  from  the  deck  to  the  carpenter's  store-room  as 
useless  lumber,  the  azimuth  compasse3  alone  remain- 
ing ;  and  these  became  so  sluggish  in  their  motions, 
that  they  required  to  be  very  nicely  leveled,  and  fre- 
quently tapped  before  the  card  traversed.  The  local  at- 
traction was  very  great,  and  a  mass  of  iron-stone  found 
on  shore  attracted  the  magnet  powerfully.  The  ships 
proceeded  120  miles  from  the  entrance. 

On  the  Stli  of  August,  in  lat.  72°  13'  K,  and  long. 
90"'  29'  AV.,  (hLs  exti-eir.e  point  of  view  Parry  named 


*      ! 


M  '■  I 


M 


'f 


y'H 


§ 

; 

;    t 

i  :    ; 

1 

ii 

88 


I'KOGKESS    0¥    AK(  FIO    liFbCOVERY. 


Cape  Kater,)  the  Ilecla  came  to  a  compact  barrier  of 
ice  extending  across  the  inlet,  which  rendered  one  of 
two  alternatives  necessary,  either  to  remain  here  until 
an  opening  took  place,  or  to  return  again  to  the  north- 
ward. The  latter  course  was  determined  on.  Making, 
therefore,  for  the  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  on 
the  20th  a  narrow  charniel  was  discovered  between  the 
ice  and  the  land.  On  the  22d,  proceeding  due  west, 
after  passing  several  bays  and  headlands,  they  noticed 
two  large  openings  or  passages,  the  first  of  wliicli,  more 
than  eight  leagues  in  width,  he  named  Wellington 
Channel.  To  various  capes,  inlets,  and  groups  of  isl- 
ands passed,  Parry  assigned  the  names  of  Jlotham, 
Barlow,  Cornwallis,  Bowen,  By  am  Martin,  GrilHth, 
Lowther,  Buthurst,  tfec.  On  the  28th  a  boat  wjis  sent 
on  shore  at  Byam  Martin  Island  with  Capt.  Sabine, 
Mr.  J.  0.  Boss,  and  the  surgeons,  to  make  observations, 
and  collect  specimens  of  natural  history.  The  vegeta- 
tion was  rather  luxuriant  for  these  regions;  moss  in 
particular  grew  in  abundance  in  the  moist  valleys  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  streams  that  Howed  from  the 
hills.  Tlie  ruins  of  six  Esquimaux  huts  were  observed. 
Tracks  of  reindeer,  bears,  and  musk  oxen  were  noticed, 
and  the  skeletons,  skulls,  and  horns  of  some  of  these 
animals  were  found. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  they  discovered  the  large 
and  fine  island,  to  which  Parry  has  given  the  name  of 
Melville  Island  after  the  First  Lord  of  the  Admiralty 
of  that  day.  On  the  following  day,  two  boats  with  a 
party  of  officers  were  dispatched  to  examine  its  shores. 
Some  reindeer  and  musk  oxen  were  seen  on  landing, 
but  being  star- '  I  \j  the  sight  of  a  dog,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  get  near  them,  "^here  seemed  here  to  be 
a  great  quantify  of  the  animal  tribe,  for  the  tracks  of 
bears,  oxen,  and  deer  were  numerous,  and  the  horns, 
skin,  and  skulls  were  also  found.  The  burrows  of  foxes 
and  field-mice  were  observed;  seven!  f)tarmigan  were 
shot,  and  flocks  of  snow-bunting,  geese,  and  ducks,  were 
noticed,  prol)ably  commencing  their  migration  to  a 
milder  climate.     Along  the   beach  there  was  an  im- 


il 


parry's  first  voyage. 


89 


•ier  of 
jiic  of 
J  until 
north- 
jiking, 
ait,  t>n 
sen  the 
e  west, 
loticod 
1,  more 
liiigton 
i  of  isl- 
otliam, 
•irilKtli, 
•{IS  sent 
Sabine, 
vations, 
vegeta- 
noss   In 
eys  and 
om  tiie 
)served. 
loticed, 
f  these 

e  large 
ame  of 
jniiralty 
with  a 
shores, 
landing, 
found 
•e  to  be 
Lcks  of 
horns, 
)f  foxes 
Ln  were 
[s,  were 
m  to  a 
an  im- 


mense nnijiber  of  small  shrimps,  and  various  kinds  of 
sliells. 

(Jn  tlie  4th  of  Soptember,  Parry  had  the  satisfaction 
of  crossing  tlie  meridian  of  110°  \V.,  in  the  latitude  of 
74°  44'  20",  by  wliich  the  expedition  became  entitled 
to  tlie  reward  of  £5000,  granted  by  an  order  in  Coun- 
cil upon  the  Act  58  Geo.  III.,  cap.  20,  entitled,  "An 
Act  for  more  effectually  discovering  the  longitude  at 
sea,  and  encuuraging  attcmj)ts  to  iiiid  a  northern  pas- 
sage between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  and  to 
ai>proach  the  Koi  th  Pole."  This  fact  was  not  announced 
to  the  crews  until  the  following  day  ;  to  celebrate  the 
event  they  gave  to  a  bold  cape  of  the  island  then  lying 
in  sight  the  name  of  .l)ounty  Ca])c ;  and  so  anxious 
wei'c  they  now  to  press  forward,  that  they  began  to 
calculate  the  time  when  they  should  reach  the  longi- 
tude of  loO°  W.,  the  second  place  specified  by  the  order 
in  Council  for  reward.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  5th, 
the  compactness  of  the  ice  stoj)]ied  them,  and  therefore, 
for  the  hrst  time  since  leaving  England,  the  anchor  waa 
let  go,  and  that  in  110°  \V.  longitude. 

A  boat  was  sent  on  shore  on  the  Gth  to  procure  turf 
or  jieat  for  fuel,  and,  strangely  enough,  some  small 
pieces  of  tolerably  good  coal  were  found  in  various 
places  scattered  over  the  surface.  A  party  of  officers 
that  went  on  shore  on  the  8th  killed  several  o;rouse  ou 
the  island,  and  a  white  hare  ;  a  fox,  some  held-mice, 
several  snow-bunting,  a  snowy  owl,  and  four  musk  oxen 
were  seen.  Ducks,  in  small  flocks,  were  seen  along  the 
shore,  as  well  as  several  glaucous  gulls  and  tern,  and  a 
solitary  seal  was  observed. 

As  the  ships  were  coasting  along  on  the  7th,  two 
herds  of  musk  oxen  were  seen  grasdng,  at  the  distance 
of  al)out  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  beach  :  one 
nerd  consisted  of  nine,  and  the  other  of  five  of  these 
cattle.     They  had  also  a  distant  view  of  two  reindeer. 

The  average  weight  of  the  hares  here  is  about  eight 
pounds.  Mr,  Fisher,  the  surgeon,  from  whose  interest- 
ing journal  I  quote,  states  that  it  is  very  evident  that 
this  island  must  be  frequented,  if  not  constantly  inh'ab- 


90 


PliOUKKSS   OF   AKCTIC    DlSCOVIiRY. 


^:il 


ited,  by  musk  oxen  in  great  numbers,  for  their  bones  and 
horns  are  found  scattered  about  in  all  directions,  and 
the  greatest  part  of  tfie  carcass  of  one  was  discovered 
on  one  occasion.  The  skulls  of  two  carnivorous  ani- 
mals, a  wolf  and  a  lynx,  wore  also  picked  up  here.  A 
party  sent  to  gather  coals  brought  on  board  about  half 
a  bushel — all  tiioy  could  obtain. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th,  Mr.  George  Fyfo,  the 
master  pilot,  witli  a  party  of  six  men  belonging  to  the 
Griper,  landed  with  a  view  of  makinj^  an  exploring  trip 
of  some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  into  the  interior.  They 
only  took  provisions  for  a  day  with  them.  Great  un- 
easiness was  felt  that  they  did  not  return  ;  and  when 
two  days  elapsed,  fears  began  to  be  entertained  for 
their  safety,  and  it  was  thought  they  must  have  lost 
their  way. 

Messrs.  Reid,  (midshipman)  Beverly,  (assistant  sur- 
geon) and  AVakeman  (clerk)  volunteered  to  go  in  search 
of  their  missing  messmates,  but  themselves  lost  their 
way  ;  guided  by  tlie  rockets,  fires,  and  lights  exhibited, 
they  returned  by  ten  at  niglit,  almost  exhausted  with 
cold  and  fatigue,  but  without  intelligence  of  their  friends. 
Four  relief  parties  were  therefore  organized,  and  sent 
out  on  the  morning  of  the  13th  to  prosecute  the  search, 
and  one  of  them  fell  in  with  and  brought  back  four  of 
the  wanderers,  and  another  the  remaining  three  before 
nightfall. 

The  feet  of  most  of  them  were  much  frost-bitten,  and 
they  were  all  wearied  and  worn  out  with  their  wander- 
ings. It  appears  they  had  all  lost  their  way  the  eve- 
ning of  the  day  they  went  out.  With  regard  to  food, 
they  were  by  no  means  badly  off,  for  they  managed  to 
kill  as  many  grouse  as  they  could  cat. 

They  found  fertile  valleys  and  level  plains  in  the  in- 
terior, abounding  witli  grass  and  moss  ;  also  a  lake  of 
fresh  water,  about  two  miles  long  by  one  broad,  in  wliich 
were  several  species  of  trout.  They  saw  several  herds 
of  reindeer  on  the  plains,  and  two  elk  ;  also  many 
hares,  but  no  musk  oxen.  Some  of  those,  however,  who 
had  been  in  search  of  the  stray  party,  noticed  herds  of 
these  cattle. 


es  and 
IS,  and 
overed 
18  ani- 
re.  A 
lit  halt 

^fo,  the 
;  to  the 
ng  trip 
They 
eat  iin- 
i  when 
lied  for 
ive  lost 

mt  sur- 

i  search 

st  their 

hibited, 

d  with 

friends. 

id  sent 

searcli, 

four  of 

before 

:en,  and 
vander- 
;he  eve- 

0  food, 
iged  to 

the  in- 
ake  of 

1  which 
1  lierda 

many 
er,  who 
erds  of 


I 


PARKY  8    FIUST    V(»YA(rK 


n 


Tlie  winter  now  began  to  bet  in,  and  tiie  paclvcd  ice 
was  so  thick,  that  fears  were  entertained  of  being  locked 
np  in  an  exposed  position  on  tlio  coast ;  it  was,  there- 
fore, thougiit  most  prudent  to  put  back,  and  endeavor 
to  reach  the  liarbor  which  had  been  passed  some  days 
before.  The  vessels  now  got  seriously  bulfetc^d  anioncj 
the  floes  and  hummocks  of  ice.  The  Griper  was  forced 
aground  on  the  beach,  and  for  some  titne  was  in  a  very 
critical  position.  Lieutenant  Liddon  liaving  been  con- 
fined to  his  cabin  by  a  rheumatic  complaint,  was  pressed 
at  this  juncture  by  Commander  Parry  to  allow  himself 
to  be  removed  to  tlie  Ilecla,  but  he  nobly  refused,  stating 
that  he  should  be  the  last  to  leave  the  ship,  and  contin- 
ued giving  orders.  The  beach  being  sand,  the  Griper 
war,  got  off  without  injury. 

On  the  23d  of  September  they  anchored  off  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor,  and  the  tlieriiiometer  now  fell  to 
1°.  The  crew  were  set  to  w^n-k  to  cut  a  cliannel  tlirough 
the  ice  to  the  shore,  and  in  the  course  of  three  days,  a 
canal,  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  was  completed, 
througii  which  the  vessel  was  tracked.  The  ice  was 
eight  or  nine  inches  thick.  An  extra  allowance  of  pre- 
served meat  was  served  out  to  the  men,  in  considera- 
tion of  their  hard  labor.  Tlie  vessels  were  unrigged, 
and  every  thing  made  snug  and  secure  for  passing  the 
winter.  Captain  Parry  gave  the  name  of  the  North 
Georgian  Islands  to  this  group,  after  his  Majesty,  King 
George  III.,  but  this  has  since  been  changed  to  the 
Parry  Islands. 

Two  reindeer  were  killed  on  the  1st  of  October,  and 
several  white  bears  were  seen.  On  the  6th  a  deer  was 
killed,  which  weighed  170  pounds.  Seven  were  seen 
on  the  10th,  one  of  which  was  killed,  and  another  se- 
verely wounded.  Follow^ing  after  this  animal,  night 
overtook  several  of  the  sportsmen,  and  the  usual  sig- 
nals of  rockets,  lights,  &c.  were  exhibited,  to  guide 
them  back.  One,  John  Pearson,  a  marine,  had  his 
hands  so  frost-bitten  that  he  was  obliged,  on  the  2d  of 
November,  to  have  the  four  fingers  of  his  left  hand  am- 
putated.   A  wolf  and  four  reindeer  were  seen  on  the 


PROGRESa  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


H   %i> 


S  1 


I 


i^ 


14th.  A  herd  of  fit'tceii  deer  were  seen  '  i  the  15th; 
])Ut  tliose  who  8aw  thuiii  coidd  not  bring  ci<viii  any,  as 
their  t'owlini^-pieces  missed  fire,  from  the  inuibture 
freezinijj  on  the  loeks.  On  the  17th  and  18th  herds  of 
eleven  and  twenty  respcetively,  were  seen,  and  a  small 
one  w.'i>;  shot.  A  fox  was  caught  on  the  2!  'h,  which  is 
descrihid  as  equally  cunning  with  his  bretii.eii  of  the 
temperate  regions. 

To  make  the  long  winter  pass  as  cheerfully  as  possi- 
bh',  plays  were  acted,  a  school  established,  and  a  news- 
paper h  r  on  foot,  certainly  the  first  periodical  publica- 
tion that  had  ever  issued  from  the  Arctic  regions.  The 
title  of  this  journal,  the  editorial  duties  of  which  were 
iindertaken  by  Captain  Sabine,  was  ""The  Winter 
C'hroniclc,  or  JS^ew  CJeorgia  (razette."  The  first  num- 
ber ap]H  ,.red  on  the  Isf  of  November. 

Or,  the  evening  of  the  5th  of  November  the  farce  of 
"  Miss  in  her  Teens "  was  brought  out,  to  the  great 
amusement  of  the  ships'  companies,  and,  considei'ing 
tilt'  local  diHiculf 'OS  and  disadvantages  under  which  the 
performers  laboicd,  their  first  essay,  according  to  the 
officers'  rep'>rt,  did  them  infinite  credit.  Two  hours 
vrero  spent  very  ha]>pily  in  their  theater  on  the  (juai'ter- 
deck,  notwithstanding  the  thernK»meter  »)utside  the  ship 
stood  at  zero,  and  within  as  low  as  the  freezing  point, 
except  close  to  the  stoves,  where  it  was  a  little  higher. 
Another  ])lay  was  performed  on  the  24th,  and  so  on 
every  fortnight.  The  men  were  employed  during  the 
day  in  banking  up  the  ships  with  snow. 

On  the  23d  of  December,  the  officers  performed  "  The 
Mayer  of  Garrett,"  which  was  followd  by  an  after- 
piece, written  by  Captain  Parry,  entitled  the  "  North- 
vYest  Passage,  or  the  Voyage  Finished."  The  sun  hav- 
:\\g  long  since  departed,  the  twilight  at  noon  was  so 
clear  that  books  in  the  smallest  print  could  be  distinctly 
read. 

On  the  <^th  of  January,  the  farce  of  "  Bon  Ton  "  was 
performed,  with  the  thermometer  at  27°  below  zei'O. — 
The  cold  became  mc  and  more  intense.  On  the  12th 
it  was  51°  below  zero,  in  the  open  air  ;  brandy  froze  to 


PARRY  S    FIRST   VOYAGE. 


93 


tlie  consistoncy  (vf  honoy;  when  tasted  in  this  fitato  it 
lot't  u  stmirtin*5  uu  the  tungue.  Tliu  ^reati'st  cuM  cxpe- 
rieiicrvl  was  on  the  14tli  of  January,  when  the  ther- 
luornoter  fell  to  52"^  below  zero.  On  the  3il  of  Febru- 
ary, the  sun  was  first  visible  above  tlic  horizon,  after 
eighty-four  days'  absent.  >'.  It  was  seen  from  the  nuiiu- 
top  of  the  ships,  a  heiglit  of  about  tifty-one  feet  above 
the  sea. 

On  the  forenoon  of  the  24tli  ;i   fire  l)ruke  ou*  at  the 
Btoreiiouse,  which  was  used  as  hservatory.      All 

hands  proceeded  to  the  spot  to  (  a  ,  or  to  subdue  the 
flames,  but  having  only  snow  to  tiirow  on  it,  and  the 
mats  with  which  the  interior  was  lined  being  vt-ry  dry, 
it  was  found  impossible  to  extinguish  it.  The  snow, 
however,  covered  the  astronomical  instrunn'uts  and  se- 
cured them  from  tlie  fire,  and  when  the  roof  had  been 
pulled  down  the  fire  had  burned  itself  out.  Consider- 
able as  the  fire  was,  its  influence  or  heat  extended  but 
a  very  short  distance,  for  several  of  the  otlicers  and 
men  were  frost-bitten,  and  confined  from  their  eftbrts 
for  several  weeks.  Jolm  Smith,  of  the  Artilleiy,  who 
was  Captain  Sabine's  servant,  and  who,  together  with 
Sergeant  Martin,  happened  to  be  in  the  house  at  the 
time  the  fire  broke  out,  suftered  much  more  severely. 
In  their  anxiety  to  save  the  dipping  needle,  which  was 
standing  close  to  the  stove,  and  of  which  they  knew 
the  value,  they  immediately  ran  out  with  it;  and  Smith 
not  having  time  to  put  on  his  gloves,  had  his  fingers  in 
half  an  hour  so  benumbed,  and  the  animation  so  com- 
pletely suspended,  that  on  his  being  taken  on  board 
by  Mr.  Edwards,  and  having  his  hands  plunged  into 
a  basin  of  cold  water,  the  surface  of  the  wafer  Was  im- 
mediately frozen  by  the  intense  cold  thus  suddenly 
communicated  to  it;  and  notwithstanding  the  most  hu- 
mane and  unremi'jting  attention  paid  him  by  the  med- 
ical gentlemen,  it  was  found  necessary,  some  time  after, 
to  resort  to  the  amputation  of  a  part  of  four  fingers 
on  one  hand,  and  three  on  the  other. 

Parry  adds,  "  the  appearance  which  our  faces  pre- 
sented at  the  fire  was  a  curious  one;  almost  every  nose 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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94 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


and  cheek  having  become  quite  white  with  frost  bites, 
in  five  minutes  after  being  exposed  to  the  weather,  so 
that  it  was  deemed  necessary  for  the  medical  gentle- 
men, together  with  some  others  appointed  to  assist 
them,  to  go  constantly  round  while  the  men  were  woi'k- 
ing  at  the  fire,  and  to  rub  with  snow  the  parts  affected, 
in  order  to  restore  animation." 

The  weather  got  considerably  milder  in  March;  on 
the  6th  the  thermometer  got  up  to  zero  for  the  first 
time  since  the  17th  of  December.  The  observatory 
house  on  shore  was  now  rebuilt. 

The  vapor,  which  had  been  in  a  solid  state  on  the 
ship's  sides,  now  thawed  below,  and  the  crew,  scraping 
off  the  coating  of  ice,  removed  on  the  8th  of  March, 
above  a  hundred  bucketsfuU  each,  containing  from  five 
to  six  gallons,  which  had  accumulated  in  less  than  a 
month,  occasion,ed  principally  from  the  men's  breath, 
and  the  steam  of  victuals  at  meals. 

The  scurvy  now  broke  out  among  the  crew,  and 
prompt  measures  were  taken  to  remedy  it.  Captain. 
Parry  took  great  pains  to  raise  mustard  and  cress  in 
his  cabin  for  the  men's  use. 

On  the  30th  of  April,  the  thermometer  stood  at  the 
freezing  point,  which  it  had  not  done  since  the  12th  of 
September  last.  On  the  1st  of  May,  the  sun  was  seen 
at  midnight  for  the  first  time  that  season. 

A  survey  was  now  taken  of  the  provisions,  fuel,  and 
stores;  much  of  the  lemon  juice  was  found  destroyed 
from  the  bursting  in  the  bottles  by  the  frost.  Having 
been  only  victualed  for  two  years,  and  half  that  period 
having  expired.  Captain  Parry,  as  a  matter  of  prudence 
reduced  all  hands  to  two-thirds  allowance  of  all  sorts  of 
provisions,  except  meat  and  sugar. 

The  crew  were  now  set  to  work  in  cutting  away  the 
ice  round  the  ships :  the  average  thickness  was  found 
to  be  seven  feet.  Many  of  the  men  who  had  been  out 
on  excursions  began  to  suffer  much  from  snow  blind- 
ness. The  sensation  when  first  experienced,  is  de- 
scribed as  like  that  felt  when  dust  or  sand  gets  into 
the  eyes.    They  were,  however,  cured  in  the  course  of 


paery's  fiest  voyage. 


96 


on 


two  or  three  days  by  keeping  the  eyes  covered,  and 
batiiing  them  occasionally  with  sugar  of  lead,  or  some 
othei  cooling  lotion. 

To  prevent  the  recurrence  of  the  complaint,  the  men 
were  ordered  to  wear  a  piece  of  crape  or  some  substi- 
tute for  it  over  the  eyes. 

The  channel  round  the  ships  was  completed  by  the 
17th  of  May,  and  they  rose  nearly  two  feet,  having 
been  kept  down  by  the  pressure  of  the  ice  round  them, 
although  lightened  during  the  winter  by  the  consump- 
tion of  food  and  fuel.  On  the  24th,  they  were  aston- 
ished by  two  showers  of  rain,  a  most  extraordinary 
phenomenon  in  these  regions.  Symptoms  of  scurvy 
again  appeared  among  tne  crew ;  one  of  the  seamen 
who  had  been  recently  cured,  having  imprudently  been 
in  the  habit  of  eating  the  fat  skimmings,  or  "  slush,"  in 
which  salt  meat  had  been  boiled,  and  which  was  served 
out  for  their  lamps.  As  the  hills  in  many  places  now  be- 
came exposed  and  vegetation  commenced,  two  or  thrci 
pieces  ot  ground  were  dug  up  and  sown  with  seeds  of 
radishes,  onions,  and  other  vegetables.  Captain  Parry 
determined  before  leaving  to  make  an  excursion  across 
the  island  for  the  purpose  of  examining  its  size,  bound- 
aries, productions,  &c.  Accordingly  on  the  1st  of  June, 
an  expedition  was  organized,  consisting  of  the  com- 
mander, Captain  Sabine,  Mr.  Fisher,  the  assistant-sur- 
geon, Mr.  John  Nias,  midshipman  of  the  Hecla,  and 
Mr.  Reid,  midshipman  of  the  Griper,  with  two  ser- 
geants, and  five  seamen  and  marines.  Three  weeks* 
provisions  were  taken,  which,  together  with  two  tents, 
wood  for  fuel,  and  other  articles,  weighing  in  all  about 
800  lbs.,  was  drawn  on  a  cart  prepared  for  the  purpose 
by  the  men. 

Each  of  the  officers  carried  a  knapsack  with  his  own 
private  baggage,  weighing  from  18  to  24  lbs.,  also  his 
gun  and  ammunition.  The  party  started  in  high  glee, 
under  three  hearty  cheers  from  their  comrades,  sixteen 
of  whom  accompanied  them  for  five  miles,  carrying 
their  knapsacks  and  drawing  the  cart  for  them. 

They  traveled  by  night,  taking  rest  by  day,  as  it  was 


96 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


found  to  be  warmer  for  sleep,  and  they  had  only  a  cov 
ering  of  a  single  blanket  each,  beside  the  clotnes  they 
had  on. 

On  the  2d,  they  came  to  a  small  lake,  about  half  a 
mile  long,  and  met  with  eider-ducks  and  ptarmigan  ; 
seven  of  the  latter  were  shot.  From  the  top  of  a  range 
of  hills  at  which  they  now  arrived,  they  could  see  the 
masts  of  the  ships  in  Winter  Harbor  with  the  naked 
eye,  at  about  ten  or  eleven  miles  distant.  A  vast  plain 
was  also  seen  extending  to  the  northward  and  west- 
ward. 

The  party  breakfasted  on  biscuit  and  a  pint  of  gruel 
each,  made  of  salep  powder,  which  was  found  to  be  a 
very  palatable  diet.  Reindeer  with  their  fawns  were 
met  with. 

They  derived  great  assistance  in  dragging  their  cart 
by  rigging  upon  it  one  of  the  tent-blanketb  as  a  sail,  a 
truly  nautical  contrivance,  and  the  wind  favoring  them, 
they  made  great  progress  in  this  way.  Captain  Sabine 
being  taken  ill  with  a  bowel  complaint,  had  to  be  con- 
veyed on  this  novel  sail  carriage.  They,  however,  had 
some  ugly  ravines  to  pass,  the  crossings  of  which  were 
very  tedious  and  troublesome.  On  the  7th  the  party 
came  to  a  large  bay,  which  was  named  after  their  ships, 
Uecla  and  Griper  Bay.  The  blue  ice  was  cut  through 
by  hard  work  with  boarding  pikes,  the  only  instruments 
they  had,  and  after  digging  fourteen  and  a  half  feet, 
the  water  rushed  up ;  it  was  not  very  salt,  but  sufficient 
to  satisfy  them  that  it  was  the  ocean.  An  island  seen 
in  the  distance  was  named  after  Captain  Sabine  ;  some 
of  the  various  points  and  capes  were  also  named  after 
others  of  the  party.  Although  this  «hore  was  found 
blocked  up  with  such  heavy  ice,  there  appear  to  be  times 
when  there  is  open  water  lierp.  for  a  piece  of  fir  wood 
seven  and  a  half  feet  long,  v  ibout  the  thickness  of 
a  man's  arm,  was  found  about  ^-ghty  yards  inland  from 
the  liummocks  of  the  beach,  and  about  tliirty  feet  above 
the  level  of  tlie  sea.  Befoi-e  leaving  the  shore,  a  monu- 
ment of  stones,  twelve  feet  high,  was  erect(>d,  in  wliich 
were  dej)osited,  in  a  tin  cylinder,  an  account  of  their 


parry's  first  voyaob. 


»7 


?l^  ceediiiffs,  a  few  coins,  and  several  naval  buttons, 
'he  expedition  now  turned  back,  shaping  its  course  in 
a  more  westerly  direction,  toward  some  high  blue  hills, 
which  had  long  been  in  sight.  On  many  days  several 
ptarmigans  were  shot.  The  horns  and  tracks  of  deer 
were  very  numerous. 

On  the  11th  they  came  in  sight  of  a  deep  gulf,  to 
which  Lieutenant  Liddon's  name  was  given  ;  tlie  two 
capes  at  its  entrance  being  called  after  Beechey  and 
Hoppner.  In  the  center  was  an  island  about  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  in  length,  and  rising  abruptly  to  the 
height  of  700  feet.  The  shores  of  the  gulf  were  very 
rugged  and  precipitant,  and  in  descending  a  steep  hill, 
the  axle-tree  of  their  cart  broke,  and  they  had  to  leave 
it  behind,  taking  the  body  with  them,  however,  for  fuel. 
The  wheels,  which  were  left  on  the  spot,  may  astonish 
some  future  adventurer  who  discovers  them.  The  stores, 
&c.,  were  divided  among  the  officers  and  men. 

Making  their  way  on  the  ice  in  the  gulf,  the  island  in 
the  center  was  explored,  and  named  after  Mr.  Hooper, 
the  purser  of  the  Hecla.  It  was  found  to  be  of  sand- 
stone, and  very  barren,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the 
west  side.  Four  fat  geese  were  killed  here,  and  a  great 
ma;iy  animals  were  seen  around  the  gulf ;  some  atten- 
tion being  paid  to  examininor  its  shores,  &c.,  a  fine  open 
valley  was  discovered,  and  the  tracks  of  oxen  and 
deer  were  very  numerous  ;  the  pasturage  appeared  to 
be  excellent. 

On  the  13th,  a  few  ptarmigan  and  golden  plover  were 
killed.  No  less  than  thirteen  deer  in  one  herd  were 
seen,  and  a  musk  ox  for  the  first  time  in  this  season. 

The  remains  of  six  Esquimaux  huts  were  discovered 
about  300  yards  from  the  beach.  Vegetation  now  be- 
gan to  flourish,  the  sorrel  was  found  far  advanced,  and 
a  species  of  saxifrage  was  met  with  in  blossom.  They 
reached  the  ships  on  the  evening  of  the  15th,  after  a 
journey  of  about  180  miles. 

Tlie  ships'  crews,  during  their  absence,  bad  been  occu- 
pied in  getting  ballast  in  and  re-stowing  the  hold. 

Shooting  parties  were  now  sent  out  in  various  direc- 


r 


98 


PKOGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


tions  to  procure  game.  Dr.  Fisher  ffives  an  interesting- 
account  of  his  ten  days'  excursion  with  a  couple  of  men. 
The  deer  were  not  so  numerous  as  they  expected  to  find 
them.  About  thirty  were  seen,  of  which  his  party 
killed  but  two,  which  were  very  lean,  weighing  only, 
when  skinned  and  cleaned,  50  to  60  lbs.  A  couple  of 
wolves  were  seen,  and  some  foxes,  with  a  great  many 
hares,  four  of  which  were  killed,  weighing  from  7  to  8 
lbs.  The  aquatic  birds  seen  were  —  brent  geese,  king 
ducks,  lonff-tailed  ducks,  and  arctic  and  glaucous  gulls. 
The  land  birds  were  ptarmigans,  plovers,  sanderlings 
and  snow  buntings.  The  geese  were  pretty  numerous 
for  the  first  few  days,  but  got  wild  and  wary  on  being 
disturbed,  keeping  in  the  middle  of  lakes  out  of  gun- 
shot. About  a  dozen  were,  however,  killed,  and  fifteen 
ptarmigans.  These  birds  are  represented  to  be  so  stu- 
pid, that  all  seen  may  be  shot.  Dr.  Fisher  was  sur- 
prised on  his  return  on  the  29th  of  June,  atler  his  ten 
days'  absence,  to  find  how  ^  much  vegetation  had  ad- 
vanced ;  the  land  being  now  completely  clear  of  snow, 
was  covered  with  the  purple-colored  saxifrage  in  blos- 
som, with  mosses,  and  with  sorrel,  and  the  grass  was 
two  to  three  inches  long.  The  men  were  sent  out  twice 
a  week  to  collect  the  sorrel,  and  in  a  few  minutes  enough 
could  be  procured  to  make  a  salad  for  dinner.  After 
being  mixed  with  vinegar  it  was  regularly  served  out 
to  the  men.  The  English  garden  seeds  that  had  been 
sown  got  on  but  slowly,  and  did  not  yield  any  produce 
in  time  to  be  used. 

On  the  30th  of  June  "Wm.  Scott,  a  boatswain's  mate, 
who  had  been  afflicted  with  scurvy,  diarrhoea,  «fec., 
died,  and  was  buried  on  the  2d  of  July  ^- a  slab  ot 
sandstone  bearing  an  inscription  carved  by  Dr.  Fisher, 
being  erected  over  his  grave. 

From  observations  made  on  the  tide  during  two 
months,  it  appeal's  that  the  greatest  rise  and  fall  here 
is  four  feet  four  inches.  A  large  pile  of  stones  was 
erected  on  the  14th  of  July,  upon  the  most  conspicuous 
hill,  containing  the  usual  notices,  coins,  &c.,  and  on  a 
large  stone  an  inscription  was  left,  notifying  the  winter- 
ing of  the  ships  here. 


PARRT  8   FIRST  VOYAGE. 


99 


On  the  Ist  of  August,  tbe  ships,  which  had  been  pre- 
viously wanted  out,  got  clear  ot  the  harbor,  and  found 
a  channel,  both  eastward  and  westward,  clear  of  ice, 
about  three  or  four  miles  in  breadth  along  the  land. 

On  the  6th  they  landed  on  the  island,  and  in  the 
course  of  the  night  killed  fourteen  hares  and  a  number 
of  glaucous  gulls,  which  were  found  with  their  young 
on  the  top  of  a  precipitous,  insulated  rock. 

On  the  9th  the  voyagers  had  an  opportunity  of  ob- 
serving an  instance  of  the  violent  pressure  that  takes 
place  occasionally  by  the  collision  of  heavy  ice.  "  Two 
pieces,"  says  Dr.  Fisher,  "  that  happened  to  come  in 
contact  close  to  us,  pressed  so  forcibly  against  one  an- 
other that  one  of  them,  although  forty-two  feet  thick, 
and  at  least  three  times  that  in  length  and  breadth,  was 
forced  up  on  its  edge  on  the  top  of  another  piece  of  ice. 
But  even  this  is  nothing  when  compared  with  the  pres- 
sure that  must  have  existed  to  produce  the  eftects  that 
we  see  along  the  shore,  for  not  only  heaps  of  earth  and 
stones  several  tons  weight  are  forced  up,  but  hummocks 
of  ice,  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  thick,  are  piled  up  on  the 
beach.  It  is  unnecessary  to  remark  that  a  ship,  although 
fortified  as  well  as  wood  and  iron  could  make  her,  would 
have  but  little  chance  of  withstanding  such  over- 
whelming force." 

This  day  a  musk-ox  was  shot,  which  weighed  more 
than  700  lbs.;  the  carcass,  when  skinned  and  cleaned, 
yielding  421  lbs.  of  meat.  The  flesh  did  not  taste  so 
very  strong  of  musk  as  had  been  represented. 

The  ships  made  but  slow  progress,  being  still  thickly 
beset  with  floes  of  ice,  40  or  50  feet  thick,  and  had  to 
make  fast  for  security  to  hummocks  of  ice  on  the  beach. 

On  the  15th  and  16th  they  were  off  the  southwest 
point  of  the  island,  but  a  survey  of  the  locality  from 
the  precipitous  cliff  of  Cape  I)undas,  presented  the 
same  interminable  barrier  of  ice,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach.  A  bold  high  coast  was  sighted  to  the  southwest, 
to  which  the  name  of  Bank's  Land  was  given. 

Captain  Parry  states  that  on  the  23a  the  ships  re- 
ceived by  far  the  heaviest  shocks  they  had  experienced 


100 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


during  the  vojaffe,  and  performed  six  miles  of  the  most 
difficult  navigation  he  hud  ever  known  among  ice. 

Two  musk  bulls  were  shot  on  the  24:th  by  partieg  Mrho 
landed,  out  of  a  herd  of  seven  which  were  seen.  Tliey 
were  lighter  than  the  first  one  shot  —  weighing  only 
about  360  lbs.  From  the  number  of  skulls  and  skele- 
tons of  these  animals  met  with,  and  their  capabidties 
of  enduring  the  rigor  of  the  climate,  it  seems  probable 
that  they  do  not  migrate  southward,  but  winter  on  this 
island. 

Attempts  were  still  made  to  work  to  the  eastward, 
but  on  the  25th,  from  want  of  wind,  and  the  closeness 
of  the  ice,  the  ships  were  obliged  to  make  fast  af^ain, 
without  having  gained  above  a  mile  after  several  hours' 
labor.  A  fresh  breeze  springing  up  on  the  26th  opened 
a  passage  along  shore,  and  the  ships  made  sail  to  the 
eastward,  and  in  the  evening  were  oif  their  old  quarters 
in  Winter  Harbor.  On  the  following  evening,  after  a 
fine  run,  they  were  off  the  east  end  of  Melville  Islind. 
Lieut.  Parry,  this  day,  announced  to  the  officers  and 
crew  that  alter  due  consideration  and  consultation,  it 
had  been  found  useless  to  prosecute  their  repearohes 
fartlier  westward,  and  therefore  endeavors  would  be 
made  in  a  more  southerly  direction,  failing  in  which, 
the  expedition  would  return  to  England.  Kegent  Inlet 
and  the  southern  shores  generally,  were  found  so  blocked 
up  with  ice,  that  the  return  to  England  was  on  the  30th 
of  August  publicly  announced.  This  day.  Navy  Board 
and  Admiralty  Inlets  were  passed,  and  on  the  1st  of 
September  the  vessels  got  clear  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and 
reached  Baffin's  Bay  on  the  5th.  They  fell  in  with  a 
whaler  belonging  to  Hull,  from  whom  they  learned  the 
news  of  the  death  of  George  the  Third  and  the  Duke 
of  Kent,  and  that  eleven  vessels  having  been  lost  in  the 
ice  last  year,  fears  were  entertained  for  their  safety. 
The  Friendship,  another  Hull  whaler,  informed  them 
that  in  company  with  the  Truelove,  she  had  looked  into 
Smith's  Sound  that  summer.  The  Alexander,  of  Aber- 
deen, one  of  the  ships  employed  on  the  former  voyage 
of  discovery  to  these  seas,  had  also  entered  Lancaster 


parry's  becond  voyage. 


101 


Sound.  After  touching  at  Clyde's  Eiver,  where  they 
met  a  good-natured  trioe  of  Enquimaux,  thesliips  made 
the  best  ot  their  way  across  tlie  Atlantic,  and  after  a 
somewhat  boisterous  passage,  Commodore  Parry  landed 
at  Peterhead  on  the  30th  of  October,  and,  accompanied 
by  Capt.  Sabine  and  Mi*.  Hooper,  posted  to  London. 


Parry's  Second  Yoyaqe,  1821—1823. 

The  experience  which  Capt.  Parry  had  formed  in  his 
previous  voyage,  led  him  to  entertain  the  opinion  that 
a  communication  might  be  found  between  Regent  Inlet 
and  Roe's  Welcome,  or  through  Repulse  Bay,  and  thence 
to  the  northwestern  shores.    The  following  are  his  re- 
marks : — "  On  an  inspection  of  the  charts  I  think  it 
will  also  appear  probable  that  a  communication  will 
one  day  be  found  to  exist  between  this  inlet  (Prince 
Regent's)  and  Hudson's  Bay,  either  through  the  broad 
and  unexplored  channel  called  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  Wel- 
come, or  through  Repulse  Bay,  which  has  not  yet  been 
satisfactorily  examined.    It  is  also  probable  that  a  chan- 
nel will  be  found  to  exist  between  the  western  land  and 
the  northern  coast  of  America."     Again,  in  another 
place,  he  says :  — "  Of  tha   existence  of  a  northwest 
passage  to  the  Pacific  it  is  now  scarcely  possible  to 
doubt,  and  from  the  succesr  which  attended  our  efFoce 
in  1819,  after  passing  th» .ugh  Sir  James  Lancaster's 
Sound,  we  were  not  unreasonable  in  anticipating  its 
complete  accomplishment.     But  the  season  in  which  it 
is  practicable  to  navigate  the  Polar  Seas  does  not  exceed 
seven  weeks.    Prom  all  that  we  observed  it  seems  desir- 
able that  ships  endeavoring  to  reach  the  Pacific  Ocean 
by  this  route  should  keep  if  possible  on  the  coast  of 
America,  and  the  lower  in  latitude  that  coast  may  be 
found,  the  more  favorable  will  it  prove  for  the  purpose ; 
hence  Cumberland  Strait,  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  Welcome, 
and  Repulse  Bay  appear  to  be  the  points  most  worthy 
of  attention.    I  cannot,  therefore,  but  consider  that  any 
expedition  equipped  by  Great  Britain  with  this  view 


,  . i 


102 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


II! 


ought  to  employ  its  best  energies  in  attempting  to  pene- 
trate from  the  eastern  coast  of  America  along  its  north- 
ern shore.  In  consequence  of  the  partial  success  which 
has  hitherto  attended  our  attempts,  the  whalers  have 
already  extended  their  views,  ana  a  new  field  has  been 
opened  for  one  of  the  most  lucrative  branches  of  our 
commerce,  and  what  is  scarcely  of  less  importance,  one 
of  the  most  valuable  nurseries  for  seamen  which  Great 
Britain  possesses."* 

Pleased  with  his  former  zeal  and  enterprise,  and  in 
order  to  give  him  an  opportunity  of  testing  the  truth 
of  his  observations,  a  few  months  after  he  returned  home, 
the  Admiralty  gave  Parry  the  command  of  another  ex- 
pedition, with  instructions  to  proceed  to  Hudson's  Strait, 
and  penetrate  to  the  westward,  until  in  Repulse  Bay, 
or  on  some  other  part  of  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay  to 
the  north  of  Wager  River,  he  should  reach  the  western 
coast  of  the  continent.  Failing  in  these  q^uarters,  he 
was  to  keep  along  the  coast,  carefully  examining  every 
bend  or  inlet,  which  should  appear  likely  to  afford  a 
practicable  passage  to  the  westward. 

The  vessels  commissioned,  with  their  officers  and 
crews,  were  the  following.  Several  of  the  officers  of  the 
former  expedition  were  promoted,  and  those  who  had 
been  on  the  last  voyage  with  Parry  I  have  marked  with 
an  asterisk : — 


Funn 

Commander — *"W.  E.  Parry. 

Chaplain  and  Astronomer  —  Rev.  Geo.  Fisher,  (was 
in  the  Dorothea,  under  Capt.  Buchan,  in  1818.) 

Lieutenants  — *J.  Nias  and  *A.  Reid, 

Surgeon  — *J.  Edwards. 

Purser  — *W.  H.  Hooper. 

Assistant-Surgeon — J.  Skeoch. 

Midshipmen  — *  J.  C.  Ross,  *J.  Bushnan,  J.  Hender- 
son, F.  R.  M.  Crozier. 

*Pari'y'8  First  Voyage,  vol  ii,  p.  240. 


PAUllYS   SECOND   VOYAGK. 


103 


Greenland  Pilots — *J.  Allison,  master ;  G.  Crawiurd, 

mate. 
47  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  60. 

Hecla, 

Commander — G.  F.  Lvon. 

Lieutenants  — *H.  P.  Hoppner  and  *C.  Palmer. 

Surgeon  — *A.  Fisher. 

Purser  —  J.Germain. 

Assistant-Surgeon  —  A.  M'Laren. 

Midshipmen  — *W.  N.  Griffiths,  J.  Sherer,  C.  Kich- 

ards,  E.  J.  Bird. 
Greenland  Pilots  — *G.  Fife,  master;  *A.  Elder,  mate. 
46  Petty  Officers,  seamen,  &c. 

Total  complement,  58. 

Lieutenant  Lyon,  the  second  in  command,  had  ob- 
tained some  reputation  from  his  travels  in  Tripoli, 
Mourzouk,  and  other  parts  of  N^orthern  Africa,  and  was 
raised  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  on  his  appointment 
to  the  Ilecla,  and  received  his  promotion  as  Caj)tain, 
when  the  expedition  returned. 

The  ships  were  accompanied  as  far  as  the  ice  by 
the  Nautilus  transport,  freighted  with  provisions  and 
stores,  which  were  to  be  transhipped  as  soon  as  room 
was  found  for  them. 

The  vessels  got  away  from  the  little  !N"ore  early  on 
the  8th  of  May,  1821,  but  meeting  with  strong  gales 
oft*  the  Greenland  coast,  and  a  boisterous  passage,  did 
not  fall  in  with  the  ice  until  the  middle  of  June. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  iu  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south- 
ward, the  sea  stove  and  carried  away  one  of  the  quar- 
ter boats  of  the  Ilecla.  On  the  following  day,  in  lat. 
60°  53'  ^.,  lon^.  61°  39'  W.,  they  made  the  pack  or 
main  body  of  ice,  having  many  large  bergs  in  and 
near  it.  On  the  19th,  Resolution  Island,  at  the  en- 
trance of  Hudson's  Strait,  was  seen  distant  sixty-four 
miles.      Capt.  Lyon  states,  that  during   one  of   the 

6 


104 


riio<3Ri«a  OF  Aucnc  DistxmiRY. 


watcho8,  a  large  tVagineiit  was  observed  to  fall  fron\ 
an  iceberg  near  the  llechi,  which  threw  up  the  watei 
to  a  great  lieigltt,  sending  Ibrtli  at  the  name  time  a 
noise  like  the  report  of  a  great  gun.  From  this  pe- 
riod to  the  Ist  of  July,  the  ships  were  occupied  in 
clearing  the  Nautilus  of  her  stores,  preparatory  to 
ber  return  home,  occasionally  made  fast  to  a  berg,  or 
driven  out  to  sea  by  gales.  On  the  2d,  after  running 
through  heavy  ice,  they  again  made  Kesolution  Island, 
and  shaping  their  course  for  the  Strait,  were  soon  in- 
troduced to  the  company  of  some  unusually  large  ice- 
bergs. The  altitude  of  one  was  258  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  sea;  its  total  height,  therefore,  allowing 
one-seventh  only  to  be  visible,  must  have  been  about 
1806  feet  1  This  however,  is  supposing  the  base  un- 
der water  not  to  spread  beyond  the  mass  above  water. 
The  vessels  had  scarcely  di'ifted  past  this  floating 
mountain,  when  the  eddy  tide  carried  them  with  great 
rapidity  among  a  cluster  of  eleven  bergs  of  huge 
size,  and  having  a  beautiful  diversity  of  form.  The 
largest  of  these  was  210  feet  above  the  water.  The 
floe  ice  was  running  wildly  at  the  rate  of  three  miles 
an  hour,  sweeping  the  vessels  past  the  bergs,  against 
any  one  of  which,  they  might  have  received  incalcu- 
lable injury.  An  endeavor  was  made  to  make  the 
ships  fast  to  one  of  them,  (for  all  of  them  were  aground,) 
in  order  to  ride  out  the  tide,  but  it  proved  unsuccess- 
ful, and  the  Fury  had  much  difticulty  in  sending  a 
boat  for  some  men  who  were  on  a  small  berg,  making 
holes  for  her  ice  anchors.  They  were  therefore  swept 
past  and  soon  beset.  Fifty-four  icebergs  were  counted 
from  the  mast-head. 

On  the  3d,  they  made  some  progress  through  very 
heavy  floes ;  but  on  the  tide  turning,  the  loose  ice  flew 
together  with  such  rapidity  and  noise,  that  there  was 
barely  time  to  secure  the  ships  in  a  natural  dock,  be- 
fore the  two  streams  met,  and  even  then  they  received 
some  heavy  shocks.  Water  was  procured  for  use 
from  the  pools  in  the  floe  to  which  the  ships  were 
made  fast ;  and  this  being  the  first  time  of  doing  so, 


PARIIYS    SKCOND    VOYAOE. 


106 


afforded  great  amusement  to  tlie  novices,  who,  even 
wlieu  it  was  their  period  of  rest,  preferred  pelting 
each  other  with  snow-balls,  to  going  to  bed.  liulfet 
ing  with  eddies,  strong  currents,  and  dangerous  bergs, 
they  were  kept  in  a  state  of  anxiety  and  danger,  for 
a  vveek  or  ten  days.  On  one  occasion,  with  the  pros- 
pect of  being  driven  on  shore,  the  pressure  they  ex- 
perienced was  so  great,  that  five  liawsers,  six  inches 
thick,  were  carried  away,  and  the  best  bower  anchor 
of  the  Hecla  was  wrenched  from  the  bows,  and  broke 
off  at  the  head  of  the  shank,  with  as  much  ease  as  if, 
instead  of  weighing  upward  of  a  ton,  it  had  been  of 
crockery  ware.  For  a  week  they  were  embayed  by 
the  ice,  and  during  this  period  they  saw  three  strange 
ships,  also  beset,  under  Resolution  Island,  which  they 
contrived  to  join  on  the  16th  of  July,  making  fast  to 
a  floe  near  them.  They  proved  to  be  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  traders.  Prince  of  Wales,  and  Eddystone, 
with  the  Lord  Wellington,  chartered  to  convey  IGO 
natives  of  Holland,  who  were  ])roceeding  to  settle  on 
Lord  Selkirk's  estate,  at  the  Red  River.  "  While 
nearing  these  vessels,  (says  Lyon,)  we  observed  the 
settlers  waltzing  on  deck,  for  above  two  hours,  the 
men  in  old-fashioned  gray  jackets,  and  tho  women 
wearing  long-eared  mob  caps,  like  those  used  by  the 
Swiss  peasants.  As  we  were  surrounded  by  ice,  and 
the  thermometer  was  at  the  freezing  point,  it  may  be 
supposed  that  this  ball,  al  vero  fresco,  afforded  us 
much  amusement."  The  Hudson's  Bay  ships  had 
left  England  twenty  days  after  the  expedition. 

The  emigrant  ship  had  been  hampered  nineteen 
days  among  the  ice  before  she  joined  the  others ; 
and  as  this  navigation  was  new  to  her  captain  and  crew, 
they  almost  despaired  of  ever  getting  to  their  jour- 
ney's end,  so  varied  and  constant  had  been  their  im- 
pediments. The  Dutchmen  had,  however,  behaved 
very  philosophically  during  this  period,  and  seemed 
determined  on  being  merry,  in  spite  of  the  weather 
and  the  dangers.  Several  marriages  had  taken  place, 
the  surgeon,  who  was  accompanying  them  to  the  col- 


106 


PROGKESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


ony,  officiating  as  clergyman,)  and  many  more  were 
in  agitiition  ;  each  liapi)y  coii))le  always  deferring  tlie 
ceremony  until  a  iine  day  allowed  of  an  evening  ball, 
which  was  only  terminated  by  a  fresh  breeze,  or  a  fall 
of  snow.*  On  the  17th,  the  ships  were  separated  by 
the  ice,  and  they  saw  no  more  of  their  visitors.  On 
the  21st,  they  were  only  off  the  Lower  Savage  Islands. 
In  the  evening  they  saw  a  very  large  bear  lying  on  a 
piece  of  ice,  and  two  boats  were  instantly  sent  off  in 
chase.  They  approached  very  close  before  he  took 
to  the  water,  when  he  swam  rapidly,  and  made  long 
springs,  tui'ning  boldly  to  face  his  pursuers.  It  was 
with  difficulty  he  was  captured.  As  these  animals, 
although  very  fat  and  bulky,  sink  the  instant  they  die, 
he  was  lashed  to  a  boat,  and  brought  alongside  the 
ship.  On  hoisting  him  in,  they  were  astonished  to 
lind  that  his  weight  exceeded  sixteen  hundred  pounds, 
being  one  of  the  largest  ever  killed.  Two  instances, 
only,  of  larger  beara  being  shot  are  recorded,  and 
these  were  by  Barentz's  crew,  in  his  third  voyage,  at 
Cherie  Island,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Bear 
Island.  Tiie  two  bears  killed  then,  measured  twelve 
and  thirteen  feet,  while  this  one  only  measured  eight 
feet  eight  inches,  from  the  snout  to  the  insertion  of  tlie 
tail.  The  seamen  ate  the  flesh  without  experiencing 
any  of  those  baneful  effects  which  old  navigators  at- 
tribute to  it,  and  which  are  stated  to  have  made  three 
of  Barentz's  people  "  so  sick  that  we  expected  they 
would  have  died,  and  their  skins  peeled  off  from 
head  to  foot."  Bruin  was  very  fat,  and  having  pro- 
cured a  tub  of  blubber  from  the  carcass,  it  was  thrown 
over  board,  and  the  smell  soon  attracted  a  couple 
cf  walruses,  the  first  that  had  been  yet  seen. 

They  here  fell  in  with  a  numerous  body  of  the  Es 
quimaux,  who  visited  them  from  the  shore.  In  less 
than  an  hour  the  ships  were  beset  with  thirty  "  ka- 
yaks," or  men's  canoes,  and  five  of  the  women's  large 
boats,  or  "  oomiaks."  Some  of  the  latter  held  up- 
ward of  twenty  w^omen.  A  most  noisy  but  merry 
barter  instantly  took  place,  the  crew  being  as  anxious 

•  Lyon's  Private  Journal,  p.  11. 


PARRY  8   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


107 


eight 


large 


to  purchase  Esquimaux  curiosities,  as  the  natives  were 
to  procure  iron  and  European  toys. 

"  It  is  quite  out  of  my  power,  (observes  Captain 
Lyon,)  to  describe  the  shouts,  yells,  and  laughter  of 
the  savages,  or  the  confusion  which  existed  for  two  or 
three  hours.  The  females  were  at  first  very  shy,  and 
unwilling  to  come  on  the  ice,  but  bartered  every  thing 
from  their  boats.  This  timidity,  however,  soon  wore 
off,  and  they,  in  the  end,  became  as  noisy  and  bois- 
terous as  the  men."  "  It  is  scarcely  possible,  (he  adds) 
to  conceive  any  thing  more  ugly  or  disgusting  than 
the  countenances  of  the  old  women,  who  had  inflamed 
eyes,  wrinkled  skin,  black  teeth,  and,  in  fact,  such  a 
forbidding  set  of  features  as  scarcely  could  be  called 
human  ;  to  which  might  be  added  their  dress,  which 
was  such  as  gave  tliem  the  appearance  of  aged  ourang- 
outangs.  Frobisher's  crew  may  be  pardoned  for  hav- 
ing, in  such  superstitious  times  as  a.  d.  1576,  taken 
one  of  these  ladies  for  a  witch,  of  whom  it  is  said, 
'  The  old  wretch  whom  our  sailors  supposed  to  be  a 
witch,  had  her  buskins  pulled  ofl",  to  see  if  she  was 
cloven-footed ;  and  being  very  ugly  and  deformed,  we 
let  her  go.' " 

In  bartering  they  have  a  singular  custom  of  ratify- 
ing the  bargain,  bj^  licking  the  article  all  over  before 
it  is  put  away  in  security.  Captain  Lyon  says  he  fre- 
quently shuddered  at  seeing  the  children  draw  a  razor 
over  their  tongue,  as  unconcernedly  as  if  it  had  been 
an  ivory  paper-knife.  I  cannot  forbear  quoting  hero 
s^me  humorous  passages  from  his  journal,  which  stand 
out  in  relief  to  the  scientific  and  nautical  parts  of  the 
narrative. 

"Tlie  strangers  were  so  well  pleased  in  our  society, 
that  they  showed  no  wish  to  leave  us,  and  when  the 
market  had  quite  ceased,  they  began  dancing  and 
playing  with  our  people,  on  the  ice  alongside.  This 
exercise  set  many  of  their  noses  bleeding,  and  discov- 
ered to  us  a  most  nasty  custom,  which  accounted  for 
tlieir  gory  faces,  and  which  was,  that  as  fast  as  the 
blood  ran   down,  they  scraped   it  with  the    fingers 


/I 


108 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERT. 


into  their  mouths,  appearing  to  consider  it  as  a  re- 
freshment, or  daintj,  if  we  might  judge  by  the  zest 
with  which  they  smacked  their  lips  at  each  supply." 


* 


* 


* 


* 


* 


* 


* 


* 


"  In  order  to  amuse  our  new  acquaintances  as  much 
as  possible,  the  fiddler  was  sent  on  the  ice,  where  he 
instantly  found  a  most  delightful  set  of  dancers,  of 
whom  some  of  the  women  kept  pretty  good  time. 
Their  only  figure  consisted  in  stamping  and  jumping 
with  all  their  might.  Our  musician,  who  was  a  lively 
fellow,  soon  caught  the  infection,  and  began  cutting 
capers  also.  In  a  short  time  every  one  on  the  floe, 
oflicers,  men,  and  savages,  were  dancing  together,  and 
exhibited  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  sights  I  ever 
witnessed.  One  of  our  seamen,  of  a  fresh,  ruddy 
complexion,  excited  the  admiration  of  all  the  young 
females,  who  patted  his  face,  and  danced  around  him 
wherever  he  went. 

"  The  exertion  of  dancing  so  exhilarated  the  Esqui- 
maux, that  they  had  the  appearance  of  being  boister- 
ously drunk,  and  played  many  extraordinary  pranks. 
Among  others,  it  was  a  favorite  joke  to  run  slily  be- 
hind the  seamen,  and  shouting  loudly  in  one  ear,  to 
give  them  at  the  same  time  a  very  smart  slap  on  the 
other.  While  looking  on,  I  was  sharply  saluted  in  this 
manner,  and,  of  course,  was  quite  startled,  to  the 
great  amusement  of  the  bystanders :  our  cook,  who 
was  a  most  active  and  unwearied  jumper,  became  so 
great  a  favorite,"  that  every  one  boxed  his  ears  so 
soundly,  as  to  oblige  the  poor  man  to  retire  from  such 
boisterous  marks  of  approbation.  Among  other 
sports,  some  of  the  Esquimaux  rather  roughly,  but 
with  great  good  humor,  challenged  our  people  to 
wrestle.  One  man,  in  particular,  who  had  thrown  sev- 
eral of  his  countrymen,  attacked  an  officer  of  a  very 
strong  make,  but  the  poor  savage  was  instantly  thrown, 
and  with  no  very  easy  fall ;  yet,  although  every  one 
was  laughing  at  him,  he  bore  it  with  exemplary  good 
humor.  The  same  officer  aftorded  us  much  diversion 
by  teaching  a  large  party  of  women  to  bow,  courtesy, 


but 


one 


pakky's  second  voyage. 


109 


sliake  hands,  turn  their  toes  out,  and  perform  sun- 
dry other  polite  accomplishments ;  the  whole  party- 
master  and  pupils,  preserving  the  strictest  gravity. 

"  Toward  midnight  all  our  men,  except  the  watch  on 
deck,  turned  in  to  their  beds,  and  the  fatigued  and 
hungry  Esquimaux  returned  to  their  boats  to  take  their 
supper,  which  consisted  of  lumps  of  raw  flesh  and  blub- 
ber of  seals,  birds,  entrails,  &c. ;  licking  their  fingers 
with  great  zest,  and  with  knives  or  fingers  scraping  the 
blood  and  grease  which  ran  down  their  chins  into  their 
mouths." 

Many  other  parties  of  the  natives  were  fallen  in  with 
during  the  slow  progress  of  the  ships,  between  Salisbury 
and  Nottingham  Islands,  who  were  equally  as  eager  to 
beg,  barter,  or  thieve  ;  and  the  mouth  was  the  general 
repository  of  most  of  the  treasures  they  received  ;  nee- 
dles, pins,  nails,  buttons,  beads,  and  other  small  etcete- 
ras, being  indiscriminately  stowed  there,  but  detracting 
in  nowise  from  their  volubility  of  speech.  On  the  13th 
of  August  the  weather  being  calm  and  fine,  norwhals  or 
sea-unicorns,  were  very  numerous  about  the  ships,  and 
boats  were  sent,  but  without  success,  to  strike  one. 
There  were  sometimes  as  many  as  twenty  of  these 
beautiful  fish  in  a  shoal,  lifting  at  times  their  immense 
horn  above  the  water,  and  at  others  showing  their 
glossy  backs,  which  were  spotted  in  the  manner  of 
coach  dogs  in  England.  The  length  of  these  fish  is 
about  fifteen  feet,  exclusive  of  the  horn,  which  averages 
five  or  six  more. 

Captain  Parry  landed  and  slept  on  Southampton  Isl- 
and. His  boat's  crew  caught  in  holes  on  the  beach 
sufficient  sillocks,  or  young  coal-fish,  to  serve  for  two 
meals  for  the  whole  ship's  company.  During  the  night 
white  whales  were  seen  lying  in  hundreds  close  to  the 
rocks,  probably  feeding  on  the  sillocks.  After  carefully 
examining  Duke  of  York  Bay,  the  ships  got  into  the 
Frozen  Strait  of  Middleton  on  the  morning  of  the  20th, 
and  an  anxious  day  was  closed  by  passing  an  oiiening 
to  the  southward,  which  was  found  to  be  Sir  Thomas 
Roe's  Welcome,  and  heaving  to  for  the  night  off  a  bay 


I- 


in ' 


110 


PROGUKbS   OF    AKCTIC    DIbCOVEKY. 


to  the  nortlnvest.  The  ships  got  well  in  to  Kepulse 
Bay  on  the  22d,  and  a  careful  examination  of  its  shores 
was  made  by  the  boats. 

Captains  Tarry  and  Lyon,  with  several  officers  from 
each  ship,  landed  and  explored  the  northern  shores, 
while  a  boat  examined  the  head  of  the  bay.  The  wa- 
ters of  a  long  cove  are  described  by  Captain  Lyon  as 
being  absolutel}'^  hidden  by  the  quantities  of  young 
eider-ducks,  which,  under  the  direction  of  their  moth- 
ers, were  making  their  first  essays  in  swimming. 

Captain  Lyon  with  a  boat's  crew  made  a  trip  of  a 
couple  of  days  along  some  of  the  indents  of  the  bay, 
and  discovered  an  inlet,  which,  however,  on  being  en- 
tered subsequentl}^  by  the  ships,  proved  only  to  be.  the 
dividing  channel  between  an  island  and  the  main-land, 
about  six  miles  in  length  by  one  in  breadth.  Proceed- 
ing to  the  northward  by  Hurd's  channel,  they  expe- 
rienced a  long  rolling  ground  swell  setting  against  them. 
On  the  28th,  ascending  a  steep  mountain.  Captain 
Lyon  discovered  a  noble  bay,  subsequently  named  Gor  > 
Bay,  in  which  lay  a  few  islands,  and  toward  this  the'  j 
directed  their  course. 

Captain  Parry,  who  had  been  two  days  absent  with 
boats  exploring  the  channel  and  shores  of  the  strait,  re- 
turned on  the  29th,  but  set  oft'  again  on  the  same  day 
with  six  boats  to  sound  and  examine  more  minutely. 
When  Parry  returned  at  night,  Mr.  Griffiths,  of  tfe 
Hecla,  brought  on  board  a  large  doe,  M'hich  he  h&d 
killed  while  swimming  (among  large  masses  of  ice)  fro.n 
isle  to  isle  ;  two  others  and  a  fawn  were  procured  <:  q 
shore  by  the  Fury's  people.  The  galne  laws,  as  thi,  y 
were  laid  down  on  the  former  voyage  while  winteri\  3 
at  Melville  Island,  were  once  more  put  in  force.  The  te 
"  enacted  that  for  the  purpose  of  economizing  the  shirrs 
provisions,  all  deer  or  musk-oxen  killed  should  Oe 
served  out  in  lieu  of  the  usual  allowance  of  meat. 
Hares,  ducks,  and  other  birds  were  not  at  this  time  to 
be  included.  As  an  encouragement  to  sportsmen,  the 
head,  legs,  and  offiil  of  the  larger  animals  were  to  be 
the  perquisites  of  those  who  procured  the  carcasses  for 


I 


% 


parry's  second  voyage. 


Ill 


the  general  good."  "  In  the  animals  of  this  day  (ob- 
serves Lyon)  we  were  convinced  that  our  sportsmen 
had  not  forgotten  the  latitude  to  which  their  perquisites 
might  legally  extend,  for  the  necks  were  made  so  long 
as  to  encroach  considerably  on  the  vertebrae  of  the 
b.'ick ;  a  manner  of  amputating  the  heads  which  had 
been  learned  during  the  fonner  voyage,  and,  no  doubt, 
would  be  strictly  acted  up  to  in  the  present  oii<'.'" 

"While  the  ships  on  the  30th  were  proceeding  through 
this  strait,  having  to  contend  with  heavy  wind  and 
wild  ice,  which  with  an  impetuous  tide  ran  against  the 
rocks  with  loud  crashes,  at  the  rate  of  five  knots  in  the 
center  stream ;  four  boats  towing  astern  were  torn 
away  by  the  ice,  and,  with  the  men  in  them,  were  for 
some  time  in  great  danger.  The  vessels  anchored  for 
the  night  in  a  small  nook,  and  weighing  at  daylight 
on  the  31st,  they  stood  to  the  eastward,  but  Gore  Bay 
was  found  closely  packed  with  ice,  and  most  of  the  in- 
lets they  passed  were  also  beset. 

A  prevalence  of  fog,  northerly  wind,  and  heavy  ice 
in  floes  of  some  miles  in  circumference,  now  carried 
the  ships,  in  spite  of  constant  labor  and  exertions,  in 
three  days,  back  to  the  very  spot  in  Fox's  Channel, 
where  a  month  ago  they  had  commenced  their  opera- 
tions. It  was  not  till  the  5th  of  September,  that  they 
could  again  get  forward,  and  then  by  one  of  the  usual 
changes  in  the  navigation  of  these  seas,  the  ships  ran 
well  to  the  northeast  unimpeded,  at  the  rate  of  six 
knots  an  hour,  anchoring  for  the  night  at  the  mouth  of 
a  large  opening,  which  was  named  Lyon  Inlet.  The 
next  day  they  proceeded  about  twenty-five  miles  up 
tliis  inlet,  which  appeared  to  be  about  eight  miles  broad. 
Captain  Parry  pushed  on  with  two  boats  to  examine 
the  head  of  the  inlet,  taking  provisions  for  a  week, 
lie  returned  on  the  14th,  having  Mled  in  finding  any 
outlet  to  the  place  he  had  been  examining,  which  was 
very  extensive,  full  of  fiords  and  rapid  overfalls  of  the 
tide.  He  had  procured  a  sufficiency  of  game  to  afford 
his  people  a  hot  supper  every  evening,  which,  after  the 
constant  labor  of  the  day,  was  highly  acceptable.     He 

6* 


112 


PKOGKESS  OF  AliCTlC   DISUOVEU^. 


fell  in  also  with  a  small  part^  of  natives  "vi  ho  displayed 
the  usual  tliieving  propensities. 

Animal  food  of  all  kinds  was  found  to  bo  very  plen- 
tiful in  this  locality.  A  tine  salmon  trout  was  brought 
down  by  one  of  the  ofticers  from  a  lake  in  the  moun- 
tains. The  crew  of  the  llecla  killed  in  a  fortnight  four 
deer,  forty  hares,  eighty -two  ptarmigan,  fifty  ducks, 
three  divers,  three  foxes,  three  ravens,  four  seals,  er- 
mines, marmottes,  mice,  &c.  Two  of  the  seals  killed 
were  immense  animals  of  the  bearded  species  {^Phoca 
harhata^  very  fat,  weighing  about  eight  or  nine  cwt.; 
the  others  were  the  common  species,  {P.  vitulina.) 

Captain  Parry  again  left  in  boats,  on  the  15th,  to  ex- 
amine more  carefully  the  land  that  had  been  passed  so 
rapidly  on  the  5tli  and  6th.  Not  Unding  him  return 
on  the  24th,  Captain  Lyon  ran  down  the  coast  to  meet 
him,  and  by  burning  blue  lights,  fell  in  with  him  at 
ten  that  night.  It  appeared  he  had  been  frozen  up 
for  two  days  on  tlie  second  evening  after  leaving. 
When  he  got  clear  he  ran  down  to,  and  sailed  round, 
Gore  Bay,  at  that  time  perfectly  clear  of  ice,  but  by 
the  next  morning  it  was  quite  filled  with  heavy  pieces, 
which  much  impeded  his  return.  Once  more  he  was 
frozen  up  in  a  small  bay,  where  he  was  detained  three 
days  ;  when,  finding  there  was  no  chance  of  getting 
out,  in  consequence  of  the  rapid  formation  of  young 
ice,  by  ten  hours'  severe  labor,  the  boats  were  carried 
over  a  low  point  of  land,  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and 
once  more  launched. 

On  the  6th  of  October,  the  impediments  of  ice  con- 
tinuing to  increase,  being  met  with  in  all  its  formations 
of  sludges  or  young  ice,  pancake  ice  and  bay  ice,  a 
small  open  bay  within  a  cape  of  land,  forming  the 
southeast  extremity  of  an  island  off  Lyon  Inlet,  was 
sounded,  and  being  found  to  be  safe  anchorage  the  ships 
were  brought  in,  and,  from  the  indications  which  were 
Betting  in,  it  was  finally  determined  to  secure  them  there 
for  the  winter ;  by  means  of  a  canal  half  a  mile  long, 
which  was  cut,  they  were  taken  further  into  the  bay. 
The  island  was  named  Winter  Isle. 

Preparations  were  now  made  for  occupation  and 


#1. 


PARRY  8   8KC0ND   VOYAGE. 


113 


amusement,  so  as  to  pass  away  pleasantly  the  period 
oF  detention.  A  good  stock  of  theatrical  dresaijie  and 
properties  having  been  laid  in  by  the  otKcers  before 
leaving  England,  arrangements  were  made  for  perfonu- 
ing  plays  fortniglitly,  as  on  their  last  winter  reHidtinrje, 
as  a  means  of  amusing  the  seamen,  and  in  some  degiee 
to  break  the  tedious  monotony  of  their  confinement.  As 
there  could  be  no  desire  or  hope  of  excelling,  every 
officer's  name  was  readily  entered  on  the  list  of  dra- 
tmitis  peraonoe^  Captain  Lyon  kindly  undertaking  the 
difficult  office  of  manager.  Those  ladies  (says  Lyon) 
who  had  cherished  tlie  growth  of  their  beards  and 
whiskers,  as  a  defense  against  the  inclemency  of  the 
climate,  now  generously  agreed  to  do  away  with  Ruch 
unfeminine  ornaments,  and  every  thing  bade  fair  for  a 
most  stylish  theater. 

As  a  curiosity,  I  may  here  put  on  record  the  play 
bill  for  the  evening.    I  have  added  the  ship  to  which 
each  officer  belonged. 

THEATER  EOYAL, 

WINTER  ISLE. 


The  Public  are  respectfully  informed  that  this  little, 
yet  elegant  Theater,  will  open  for  the  season  on  Fri- 
day next,  the  9th  of  November,  1821,  when  will  be 
performed  Sheridan's  celebrated  Comedy  of 

THE  RIVALS. 

Sir  Anthony  Absolute    Captain  Parry,  {Fury.) 
Captain  Absolute    -    -  Captain  Lyon,  {Hecla.) 
Sir  Lucius  O'' Trigger^    Mr.  Crozier,  {Fury) 
Faulkland^   .    _    .    .    M !•.  j.  Edwards,  (Fury) 
Acres,     ------  Mr.  J.  Henderson,  {Fury.) 

Fay,     ------    Lieut,  lloppner,  {Hecla) 

David,   ------  Lieut.  Re  id,  {Fury) 

Mrs.  Malaprop,     -    -    Mr.  C.  Richards,  {Hecla) 

Jalia, Mr.  "W.  H.  Hooper,  {Fury) 

Lydia  Languish,  -    -    Mr.  J.  Sherer,  {Hecla) 
Lucy, Mr.  W.M.ogg,{cl''k  of  ITecla) 


i 


11-1 


PKOOKLYB   Of   AUCTIC    niSCOVEKY. 


h\ 


I 


Songs  by  Messrs.  C  raliner,  (^iiechi,)  and  J.  Ilcn- 
dersQu,  will  bo  introduced  in  the  course  of  the  eve- 


ning. 


'Wj 


On  the  lYth  of  December,  a  shivering  set  of  actors 
performed  to  a  great-coated,  yet  very  cold  andience, 
the  comedy  of  the  "  Poor  Gentleman."  A  burst  of 
true  English  feeling  was  exhibited  during  the  perform- 
ance of  this  play.  In  the  scene  where  Lieut.  Worth- 
in(jton  and  Corporal  Fans  recount  in  so  animated  a 
manner  their  former  achievements,  advancing  at  the 
same  time,  and  huzzaing  for  "  Old  England,"  the 
whole  audience,  with  one  accord,  rose  and  gave  three 
most  hearty  cheers.  They  then  sat  down,  and  the 
play  continued  uninterrupted. 

On  Christmas  Eve,  in  order  to  keep  the  people 
quiet  and  sober,  two  farces  were  performed,  and  the 
phantasmagoria,  (which  had  been  kindly  presented 
anonymously  to  the  ships  before  leaving,  by  a  lady,) 
exhibited,  so  that  the  night  passed  merrily  away. 

The  coldness  of  tlie  weather  proved  no  bar  to  the 
performance  of  a  play  at  the  appointed  time.  If  it 
amused  the  seamen,  the  purpose  was  answered,  but  it 
was  a  cruel  task  to  performers.  "  In  our  green-room, 
(says  Lyon,)  wliich  was  as  much  warmed  as  any  other 
part  of  the  Theater,  the  thermometer  stood  at  16°,  and 
on  a  table  wliich  was  placed  over  a  stove,  and  about 
six  inclies  above  it,  the  coifee  froze  in  the  cups.  For 
my  sins,  I  was  obliged  to  be  dressed  in  the  height  of 
the  fashion,  as  Dick  Doiclas^  in  the  "  Heir  at  Law," 
and  went  through  tlie  last  scene  of  the  play  with 
two  of  my  iiiigers  frost-bitten  !  Let  those  who  have 
witnessed  and  admired  the  performances  of  a  Young, 
answer  if  he  could  possibly  ho  /e  stood  so  cold  a  recep- 
tion."     . 

Captain  Parry  also  states  in  his  Journal,  "  Among 
the  recreations  which  afforded  the  highest  gratifica 
tion  to  several  among  us,  I  may  mention  the  musical 
parties  we  were  enabled  to  muster,  and  which  assem- 
bled on  stated  evenings  throughout  the  winter,  alter 


Hi 


\ 


% 


n/J' 


iji 


.^  Ji  l,;..i;,,;|ij|j;i^;di,  j 
■I'l'Wiiiiiiliy,''  '';■(/ ' 


mm 


^ 


H 


^ 


i 


PARRY  8   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


115 


R  .tely  i.i  '06kimander  Lyon's  cabin,  and  in  my  own. 
More  skillful  amateurs  in  music  might  well  have  smiled 
at  these,  our  humble  concerts,  but  it  will  not  incline 
them  to  think  less  of  the  science  they  admire,  to  be 
assured  that,  in  these  remote  and  desolate  regions  of 
the  globe,  it  has  often  furnished  us  with  the  most 
pleasurable  sensations  which  our  situation  was  capable 
(.  '  aftbrding ;  for,  independently  of  the  mere  gratifica- 
tic  aftbrded  to  the  ear  by  music,  there  is,  perhaps, 
scarcely  a  person  in  the  world  really  fond  of  it,  in 
whose  mind  its  sound  is  not  more  or  less  connected 
with  '  his  far  distant  home.'  There  are  always  some 
remembrances  which  render  them  inseparable,  and 
those  associations  are  not  to  be  despised,  which,  while 
we  are  engaged  in  the  performance  of  our  duty,  can 
still  occasionally  transport  us  into  the  social  circle  of 
our  friends  at  home,  in  spite  of  the  oceans  that  roll  be- 
tween us."  But  their  attention  was  not  confined  to 
mere  amusements.  Much  to  the  credit  of  the  seamen, 
an  application  was  made  in  each  ship  for  permission 
to  open  an  evening  school,  which  was  willingly  ac- 
ceded to.  Almost  every  man  could  read,  and  some 
could  write  a  little,  but  several  foimd  that,  from  long 
disuse,  it  was  requisite  to  begin  again. 

Mr.  Halse  volunteered  to  superintend  the  classes  in 
the  Fury ;  while  Benjamin  White,a  seaman,  who  had  been 
educated  at  Christ's  Hospital,  officiated  as  schoolmaster 
in  the  Hecla,  and  those  best  qualified  to  assist  aided 
in  the  instruction  of  their  shipmates,  who  made  rapid 
progress  under  their  tiiition.  On  Christmas  Day,  Capt. 
Lyon  states  that  he  received  sixteen  copies  from  men, 
who,  two  months  before,  scarcely  knew  their  letters. 
These  little  specimens  were  all  well  written,  and  sent 
with  as  much  pride  as  if  the  writers  had  been  good 
little  schoolboys,  instead  of  stout  and  excellent  seamen. 

An  observatory  was  erected  on  shore,  for  carrying 
on  magnetical,  astronomical,  and  other  scientific  opera- 
tions. Foxes  were  very  plentiful  about  the  ships ;  fifteen 
were  caught  in  one  trap  in  four  hours  on  the  night  of 
the  25th  of  October,  and  above  one  hundred  were 


iin 


rnocitnss  of  arctic  I)Iscx)VKrt. 


(.'itluT  trapped  or  killt'd  in  the  courHe  of  tlireo  montbs, 
and  yet  tiiere  seemed  but  little  diniiiuition  in  their 
nu!id)erH.  Capttiin  Lyon  Buys  iio  found  tlieni  not  bud 
eatinn^,  the  ilesli  much  resembling  thut  of  kid.  A  pack 
of  thirteen  wolves  camo  occasionally  to  have  a  look  at 
the  sliips,  and  on  one  occasion  broke  into  a  snow-houso 
ah>ng8ide,  and  walked  oft'  with  a  couple  of  Esquimaux 
do<>s  confined  there.  Bears  now  and  then  also  made 
their  ai)pearanco. 

A  very  beautiful  ermine  walked  on  board  the  lleda 
one  (hiy,  and  was  caught  in  a  small  trap  placed  on  the 
deck,  certainly  tho^rst  of  these  animals  which  Avas 
ever  taken  alive  on  board  a  ship  400  yards  from  the 
land.  Tlie  ravenous  propensities  of  even  some  of  tho 
smaUest  members  of  the  animal  kingdom  are  exempli- 
fied l)y  the  following  extract :  — 

"  AV^e  had  for  some  time  observed  that  in  the  fire- 
hole,  which  was  kept  open  in  the  ice  alongside,  a  count- 
less multitude  of  small  shrimps  were  constantly  rising 
near  tlie  surface,  and  we  soon  found  that  in  twenty-four 
hours  tliey  would  clean,  in  the  most  beautiful  manner, 
the  skeletons." 

After  attending  divine  service  on  Christmas  day,  the 
officers  and  crews  sat  down  to  the  luxury  of  joints  of 
English  roast  beef,  which  had  been  kept  untainted  by 
being  frozen,  and  the  outside  rubbed  with  palt.  Cran- 
berry pies  and  puddings,  of  every  shape  and  size,  with 
a  full  allowance  of  spirits,  followed,  and,  probably  the 
natural  attendance  of  headaches  succeeded,  for  the 
next  morning  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  send  all  the 
people  for  a  run  on  the  ice,  in  order  to  put  them  to 
rights  ;  but  thick  weather  coming  on,  it  became  neces- 
sary to  recall  them,  and,  postponing  the  dinner  hour, 
they  were  all  danced  sober  by  one  o'clock,  the  fiddler 
being,  fortunately,  quite  as  he  should  be.  During  this 
curious  ball,  a  witty  fellow  attended  as  an  old  cake 
woman,  with  lumps  of  frozen  snow  in  a  bucket ;  and 
such  was  the  demand  for  his  pies  on  this  occasion,  that 
he  was  obliged  to  replenish  pretty  frequently.  The 
year  had  now  drawn  to  a  close,  and  all  enjoyed  excel- 


the 

to 


er 
lis 
ike 
nd 
lat 
'he 
el- 


I'AKUVS   SF.tjoSD   VOYAGE. 


11' 


U'Ut  lioiiltli,  niul  wtTc  l)lofiscil  with  frood  -|»irit8,  nn«l  /xml 
fur  tho  ruiiuwul  of  their  Ardiioiia  »  xei'tioiiH  in  tiio  buiii- 
iiier.  ' 

Xo  Fipins  of  scurvy,  tho  iisral  |)hi<:;uc  of  such  voy- 
nffcs,  liad  occuitcmI,  und  l)y  tlio  phuis  of  Ca[)tjuii  Parry, 
an  carried  out  on  tiie  former  voya^jje,  a  hiilhciency  of 
uiURtard  and  cress  was  raised  hetweeu  decks  to  atlord 
all  iiands  a  salad  once,  and  sonu'tinies  twice  a  week. 
Tlio  cold  now  became  intense.  Witie  froze  in  the  hot- 
tics.  Port  was  congealed  into  thin  i)ink  lamina',  which 
lay  loo-^elv,  and  occupied  the  whole  length  of  tlie  but- 
tle. White  wine,  on  the  contrary,  froze  into  a  solid 
and  perfectly  transparent  mass,  resembling  amber. 

On  the  1st  of  February  the  monotony  of  their  life 
was  varied  by  tho  arrival  of  a  lai'ge  party  of  Ks(|ui- 
maux,  and  an  interchange  of  visits  thenceforward  took 
place  with  this  tribe,  which,  sinoularly  enough,  were 
j»roverbial  for  their  lionesty.  Ultimately,  liowever, 
they  began  to  display  some  thievish  propensities,  for 
on  one  evening  in  March  a  most  shocking  theft  was 
committed,  which  was  no  less  than  the  last  piece  of 
English  corned  beef  from  the  midshipmen  s  mess. 
Had  it  been  an  181b.  carronade,  or  even  one  of  the  an- 
chors, the  thieves  would  have  been  welcome  to  it  ;  but 
to  purloin  English  beef  in  such  a  country  was  unpar- 
donaldo. 

On  the  15th  of  March  C?iptain  Lyon,  Lieutenant 
Palmer,  and  a  party  of  men,  left  the  ship,  with  pro- 
visions, tents,  ti^c,  in  a  large  sledge,  for  an  e\c  hion 
of  three  or  four  days,  to  examine  the  land  iu  the  'i^dgh- 
borhood  of  the  ships. 

The  first  night's  encampment  was  anything  but  com- 
fortable. Their  tent  they  found  so  cold,  that  it  was 
determined  to  make  a  cavern  in  the  snow  to  sleep  in  ; 
and  digging  this  aftbrded  so  good  an  opportunity  of 
warming  themselves,  that  the  only  shovel  was  lent  from 
one  to  the  other  as  a  particular  favor.  After  digging 
it  of  sufKcient  size  to  contain  them  all  in  a  sitting  j)os- 
ture,  by  means  of  the  smoke  of  a  fire  tliey  numaged  to 
raise  the  temperature  to  20°,  and,  closing  tiie  entrance 


118 


ritOGKESS    OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVKRY. 


ii 


with  blocks  of  snow,  crept  into  their  blanket  bags  and 
tried  to  sleep,  with  the  pleasant  reflection  that  their 
root'  might  fall  in  and  bury  them  all,  and  that  their  one 
spade  was  the  only  means  of  liberation  after  a  night's 
drift  of  snow. 

They  woke  next  morning  to  encounter  a  heavy  gale 
and  drift,  and  found  their  sledge  so  embedded  in  the 
snow  that  they  could  not  get  at  it,  and  in  the  attempt 
their  faces  and  extremities  were  most  painfully  frost- 
bitten. The  thermometer  was  at  32°  below  zero  ;  they 
could  not,  moreover,  see  a  yard  of  the  road  ;  yet  to  re- 
main appeared  worse  than  to  go  forward  —  tlie  last 
plan  was,  therefore,  decided  on.  The  tent,  sledge,  and 
luggage  were  left  behind,  and  with  only  a  few  pounds 
of  bread,  a  little  rum,  and  a  spade,  tlie  party  again  set 
out ;  and  in  order  to  depict  their  sufferings,  1  must  take 
up  the  narrati^'c  as  related  by  the  commander  himself : 

"!Not  knowing  where  to  go,  we  wandered  among 
the  heavy  hummocks  of  ice,  and  suffering  from  cold, 
fatigue  and  anxiety,  w'ere  soon  completely  bewildered. 
Several  of  our  party  now  began  to  exhibit  symptoms 
of  that  horrid  kind  of  insensibility  which  is  the  pre- 
lude to  sleep.  They  all  professed  extreme  willingness 
to  do  what  they  were  told  in  order  to  keep  in  exercise, 
but  none  obeyed  ;  on  the  contrary,  tliey  reeled  about 
like  drunken  men.  Tlie  faces  of  several  were  severely 
frost-bitten,  and  some  had  for  a  considerable  tin>e  lost 
6en>ation  in  their  fingers  and  toes  ;  yet  they  made  not 
the  slightest  exertion  to  rub  the  parts  affected,  and  even 
discontinued  their  general  custom  of  warming  each 
other  on  observinfir  a  discoloration  of  the  skin.  Mr. 
Palmer  employed  tlie  people  in  building  a  snow  wall, 
ostensibly  as  a  shelter  from  the  wind,  but  in  fact  to 
give  them  exercise,  when  standing  still  must  have 
proved  fatal  to  men  in  our  circumstances.  My  atten- 
tion was  exclusively  directed  to  Sergeant  Speckman, 
who,  having  been  repeatedly  warned  that  his  nose  vras 
frozen,  had  paid  no  attention  to  it,  owing  to  tlie  state 
of  stupefaction  into  whicli  he  had  fallen.  The  frost- 
bite had  now  extended  over  one  sidw  of  his  face,  which 


PARRY  S    SECOND   VOYAGE.   * 


119 


was  frozen  as  hard  as  a  mask  ;  the  eyelids  were  stiff, 
and  one  corner  f  the  upper  lip  so  drawn  up  as  to 
expose  the  teeth  and  gums.  My  hands  being  still 
warm,  I  had  the  happiness  of  restoi-ing  the  circulation, 
after  which  I  used  all  my  endeavors  to  keep  the  poor 
fellow  in  motion  ;  but  he  complained  sadly  of  giddi- 
ness and  dimness  of  sight,  and  was  so  weak  as  to  be 
unable  to  walk  without  assistance.  His  case  was  so 
alarming,  that  I  expected  every  moment  he  would  lie 
down,  never  to  rise  again. 

"Our  prospect  now  became  every  moment  more 
gloomy,  and  it  was  but  too  probable  that  four  of  our 
party  would  be  unable  to  survive  another  hour.  Mr. 
ralmer,  however,  endeavored,  as  well  as  myself,  to 
cheer  the  people  up,  but  it  was  a  faint  attempt,  as  we 
had  not  a  single  hope  to  give  them.  Every  piece  of 
ice.  or  even  of  small  rock  or  stone,  was  now  supposed 
to  be  the  ships,  and  we  had  great  difficulty  in  prevent- 
ing the  men  from  running  to  the  different  objects  which 
attracted  them,  and  consequently  losing  themselves  in 
the  drift.  In  this  state,  while  Mr.  Palmer  was  running 
round  us  to  warm  himself,  he  suddenly  pitched  on  a 
new  beaten  track,  and  as  exercise  was  indispensable, 
we  determined  on  following  it,  wherever  it  might  lead 
us.  Having  taken  the  Serijeant  under  mv  coat,  he  re- 
covered  a  little,  and  we  moved  onward,  when  to  our 
infinite  joy  we  found  that  the  path  led  to  the  ships." 

As  the  result  of  this  exposure,  one  man  had  two  of 
his  fingers  so  badly  frost-bitten  as  to  lose  a  good  deal 
of  the  llesh  of  the  upper  ends,  and  for  many  days  it 
was  feared  that  he  would  be  obliged  to  have  them  am- 
putated. Quarter-master  Carr,  one  of  those  who  had 
been  the  most  hardy  while  in  the  air,  fainted  twice  on 
getting  belo'vv,  and  every  one  had  severe  frost-bites  in 
different  parts  of  the  body,  which  recovered  after  the 
usual  loss  of  skin  in  these  cases. 

One  of  the  Esquimaux  females,  by  name  Tgloolik, 
who  plays  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  narrative,  was  a 
general  favorite,  being  possessed  of  a  large  fund  of 
useful  information,  having  a  good  voice  and  ear  for 


iii 


120 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOYERY. 


music,  being  an  excellent  seamstress,  and  having  sneh 
a  good  idea  of  the  hydrogniphy  and  bearings  of  tlic 
neighboring  sea-coasts,  as  to  draw  charts  which  guided 
Parry  much  in  his  future  operations,  for  he  found  lier 
sketches  to  be  in  the  main  correct.  She  connected  the 
jand  from  tlieir  winter  quarters  to  the  northwest  sea, 
rounding  and  terminating  the  northern  extremity  of 
this  part  of  America,  by  a  large  island,  and  a  strait  of 
sutlicient  magnitude  to  afford  a  safe  passage  for  the 
ships.  Tliis  little  northwest  passage,  observes  Lyon, 
set  us  all  castle-building,  and  we  already  fancied  the 
worst  part  of  our  voyage  over  ;  or,  at  all  events,  that 
before  half  the  ensuing  summer  was  past,  we  should 
arrive  at  Akkoolce,  the  Esquimaux  settlement  on  the 
western  shore.  Half-way  between  that  coast  and  Ee 
pulse  Bay,  Igloolik  drew  on  her  chart  a  lake  of  consid- 
erable size,  having  small  streams  running  from  it  to 
the  sea,  on  each  side ;  and  the  correctness  of  this  infor- 
mation was  fully  proved  by  Rae  in  his  recent  expedi- 
tion in  1846. 

On  the  13tli  of  April  their  Esquimaux  friends  took 
their  departure  for  other  quarters  ;  towards  the  end  of 
the  montli  the  crews  completed  the  cutting  of  trenches 
round  the  vessels,  in  order  that  they  might  rise  to  their 
proper  bearings  previous  to  working  in  the  holds,  and 
the  ships  floated  like  corks  on  their  native  element, 
after  their  long  imprisonment  of  191  days.  As  tlie 
season  appeared  to  be  im2>roving,  another  land  expedi- 
tion was  tletermined  on,  and  Captain  Lyon  and  Lieu- 
tenant Palmer,  attended  by  a  party  of  eight  men,  set 
off  on  the  8th  of  May,  taking  with  them  twenty  days' 
provisions.  Each  man  drew  on  a  sledge  126  lbs.,  and 
the  ofHcers  95  lbs.  apiece. 

"  Loaded  as  we  were,"  says  the  leader,  "it  was  with 
the  greatest  difficulty  we  made  our  way  amoncj  and 
over  the  hummocks,  ourselves  and  sledges  taking  some 
very  unpleasant  tumbles.  It  required  two  and  a  half 
hours  to  cross  the  ice,  altliough  the  distance  was  not 
two  miles,  and  We  then  landed  on  a  small  island,  where 
we  passed  the  night." 


parry's   8EC0NT)   VOYAGE. 


121 


iien- 


Seve<al  islands  and  shoals  in  the  strait  were  named 
Bird's  Isles.  At  noon  on  the  lltli,  tliey  camped  at  the 
head  of  a  line  bay,  to  which  the  name  of  Blake  was 
given.  In  spite  of  all  the  care  which  had  been  taken 
by  nsing  crape  shades,  and  other  coverings  for  the  e^^es, 
live  of  the  party  became  severely  afflicted  with  snow 
blindness.  Before  evening  two  of  the  snfferers  were 
quite  blinded  by  the  inflammation.  Their  faces,  eyes, 
and  even  heads,  being  much  swollen,  and  very  red. 
Bathing  would  have  afforded  relief,  but  the  sun  did  not 
produce  a  dro])  of  water,  and  their  stock  of  fuel  being 
limited,  tliey  could  only  spare  enough  wood  to  thaw 
snow  for  their  midday  draught. 

As  the  mornino;  of  the  12tli  brouGjht  no  change  in  the 
invalids,  another  day  was  lost.  Toward  evening,  by 
breaking  pieces  of  ice,  and  placing  them  in  the  full 
glare  of  the  sun,  sufficient  water  was  obtained,  both  for 
drinking  and  for  the  sick  to  bathe  their  faces,  which 
afforded  them  amazing  relief,  and  on  the  morrow  they 
were  enabled  to  resume  their  journey.  At  noon  the 
sun  was  sufficiently  powerful  to  afford  the  travelers  a 
draught  of  water,  without  having  to  thaw  it,  as  had 
hitherto  been  the  case. 

For  nearly  three  days  after  this,  they  were  imprisoned 
in  their  low  tent  by  a  snow-storm,  but  on  tlie  morning 
of  the  18th,  they  wxre  enabled  to  sally  out  to  sfretch 
their  legs,  and  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  sun.  After  exam- 
ining many  bays  and  indentations  of  the  coast,  the  party 
returned  to  the  ships  on  the  evening  of  tlie  21st.  A 
canal  was  now  cut  through  the  ice,  to  get  the  ships  to 
tlie  0])en  water,  in  length  2400  feet,  and  varying  in 
breadth  from  GO  to  197  feet.  The  average  thickness  of 
the  ice  was  four  feet,  but  in  some  places  it  was  as  nnicli 
as  twelve  feet.  This  truly  arduous  task  had  occupied  tlie 
crews  for  fifteen  days,  from  six  in  the  morning  to  eight 
in  the  evening ;  but  they  labored  at  it  with  the  greatest 
spirit  and  good  luimor,  and  it  was  concluded  on  the  18th 
of  June,  when  the  officers  and  men  began  to  take  leave 
of  their  several  haunts  and  promenades,  particularly 
the  "  garden  "  of  each  ship,  which  had  become  favorite 


\ 


122 


PR0GTJES8   OF    AKCTIC   DISCOVP^EY. 


lounges  during  thdr  nine  months'  detention.  A  few 
ill-fated  bunting  came  near  enough  to  be  shot,  and  were 
instantly  roasted  for  a  farewell  supper^  and  bright  vis- 
ions of  active  exertions  on  the  water  on  the  morrow 
M'ere  imiversally  entertained.  But  the  night  dispelled 
all  these  airy  castles,  for  with  the  morning's  dawn  they 
found  that  the  whole  body  of  ice  astern  of  the  shijjs 
had  broke  adrift,  Ulled  up  the  hard-wrought  canal,  and 
imprisoned  them  as  firm  us  ever. 

Death  now  for  the  iirst  time  visited  the  crews.  James 
Pringle,  a  seaman  of  the  llecla,  fell  from  the  mast-head 
to  the  deck,  and  was  killed  on  the  18th  of  May.  Wm. 
Souter,  quai'ter-master,  and  Jolm  Reid,  Carpenter's 
mate,  belonging  to  the  Fury,  died  on  the  26th  and  27th, 
of  natural  causes.  Toward  the  end  of  June,  the  sea 
began  to  clear  rapidly  to  the  eastward,  and  the  bay  ice 
soon  gave  way  as  far  as  where  the  ships  were  lying,  and 
on  the  2d  of  July  they  put  to  sea  with  a  fresh  breeze, 
after  having  been  frozen  in  for  267  days. 

In  making  tlieir  way  to  the  northward,  they  were  fre- 
quently in  much  danger.  On  the  3d,  the  ica  came 
down  on  the  ITecla  with  such  force  as  to  carry  her  on 
board  the  Fury,  by  which  the  Ilecla  broke  her  best  bower 
anchor,  and  cut  her  waist-boat  in  two.  On  the  4tli,  the 
pressure  of  the  ice  wrs  so  great  as  to  break  the  liecla 
adrift  from  three  hawsers.  Four  or  five  men  were  each 
on  separate  pieces  of  ice,  parted  from  the  ships  in  the 
endeavor  to  run  out  a  hawser.  A  heavy  pressure  closing 
the  loose  ice  unexpectedly  gave  them  a  road  on  board 
again,  or  they  must  have  been  carried  away  by  tlie 
stream  to  certain  destruction.  On  tlie  8th,  the  ITecla 
had  got  her  stream-cable  out,  in  addition  to  the  other 
hawsers,  and  made  fast  to  the  land  ice,  when  a  very 
heavy  and  extensive  floe  took  the  ship  on  her  broad 
side,  and  being  backed  by  another  large  body  of  ice, 
gradually  lifted  her  stem  as  if  by  the  action  of  a  wedge. 

"The  weight  every  moment- increasing,  obliged  us,'' 
says  Captain  Lyon,  "  to  veer  on  the  hawsers,  whose  fric- 
tion was  so  great  as  nearly  to  cut  through  the  l)itt-head8, 
and  ultimately  to  set  them  on  fire,  so  that  it  became 


parry's  second  voyage. 


123 


A  few 
|)  anc]  Were 

>^''ght  vis- 

11]  OJ'I'ow 

clispeJied 
pvvn  they 
jtlie  ships 
pnaJ,  and 

James 
ast-heacl 
Wm. 
I'pentei-'s 
ihI  2rth, 
the  sea 
.  baj  ice 
"ig,  and 


bi 


eeze, 


^ere  fre- 
3  came 

her  on 
t  bower 
ith,  the 

HecJa 
"(i  each 
in  the 
•losing 
board 
'J  the 
irecJa 
otiier 

Very 
I'oad 
f"  ice, 

us/' 
fric- 
ads, 
ime 


requisite  for  people  to  attend  with  buckets  of  water. 
The  pressure  was  at  length  too  powerful  for  resistance, 
and  the  stream-cable,  with  two  six  and  one  live-inch 
hawsers,  all  gave  way  at  the  same  moment,  three  others 
soon  following  them.  The  sea  was  too  full  of  ice  to 
allow  the  ship  to  drive,  and  the  only  way  in  which  she 
could  yield  to  the  enormous  weight  which  oppressed  her, 
w^as  by  leaning  over  on  the  land  ice,  while  ner  stem  at 
the  same  time  was  entirely  lifted  to  above  the  height  of 
five  feet  out  of  the  water.  The  lower  deck  beams  now 
complained  very  much,  and  the  whole  frame  of  the 
ship  underwent  a  trial  which  would  have  proved  fatal 
to  any  less  strengthened  vessel.  At  the  same  moment, 
the  rudder  was  unhung  with  a  sudden  jerk,  which  broke 
up  the  rudder-case,  and  struck  the  driver-boom  with 
great  force." 

From  this  perilous  position  she  was  released  almost 
by  a  miracle,  and  the  rudder  re-hung. 

The  ships  av  last  reached  the  island  which  had  been  so 
accurately  described  to  them  by  the  Esquimaux  lady  — 
Iglolik,  where  they  came  upon  an  encampment  of 
120  Esquimaux,  in  tents.  Captains  Parry  and  Lyon 
and  other  officers  made  frequent  exploring  excursions 
along  the  shores  of  the  Fury  and  Ilecla  strait,  and  in- 
land. On  the  26th  of  August  the  ships  entered  this 
strait,  which  was  found  blocked  up  with  flat  ice.  The 
season  had  also  now  assumed  so  wintry  an  aspect  that 
there  seemed  but  little  probability  of  getting  much  far- 
ther west :  knowing  of  no  harbor  to  protect  the  ships, 
unless  a  favorable  change  took  place,  they  had  the 
gloomy  prospect  before  them  of  wintering  in  or  near 
tills  frozen  strait.  Boating  and  land  parties  "were  dis- 
patched in  several  directions,  to  report  upon  the  differ- 
ent localities. 

On  the  4th  of  September,  Captain  Lyon  landed  on 
an  island  of  slate  formation,  about  six  miles  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  ships,  which  he  named  Amherst  Island.  The 
result  of  these  expeditions  proved  that  it  was  impracti- 
cable, either  by  boats  or  water  conveyance,  to  examine 
any  part  of  the  land  southwest  of  Iglolik,  in  conse- 
fjnence  of  the  ice. 


124 


PliOGRESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


Mr.  Eeid  and  a  boat-party  traveled  about  sixty  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Anil i erst  Island,  and  ascertained  the 
termination  of  the  strait.  On  a  consultation  with  the 
officers,  Captain  Parry  determined  to  seek  a  berth  near 
to  Iglolik,  in  which  to  secure  the  ships  for  the  winter. 
They  had  now  been  sixty-live  days  struggling  to  get 
forward,  but  had  only  in  that  time  reached  forty  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Iglolik.  The  vessels  made  the  best 
of  their  way  to  the  natural  channel  between  tliis  island 
and  tlie  land,  but  were  for  some  time  drifted  with  the 
ice,  losing  several  anchors,  and  it  was  only  by  liard 
work  in  cutting  channels  that  they  were  brought  into 
safer  quarters,  near  the  land.  Some  fine  teams  of  dogs 
were  here  purchased  from  the  Esquimaux,  which  were 
found  very  serviceable  in  making  excursions  on  sledges. 

Their  second  Christmas  day  in  this  region  had  now 
arrived,  and  Lyon  informs  us  — 

"  Captain  Parry  dined  with  me,  and  was  treated  with 
a  superb  display  of  mustard  and  cress,  with  about  fifty 
onions,  rivaling  a  fine  needle  in  size,  which  I  had  reared 
in  boxes  round  my  cabin  stove.  All  our  messes  in 
either  ship  were  supj^lied  with  an  extra  pound  of  real 
English  fresh  beef,  which  had  been  hanging  at  our 
quarter  for  eighteen  montlis.  We  could  not  aftbrd  to 
leave  't  for  a  farther  trial  of  keeping,  but  I  have  no  doubt 
that  double  the  period  would  not  have  quite  spoiled  its 
flavor." 

This  winter  proved  much  more  severe  than  the  for- 
mer. Additional  clothing  was  found  necessary.  The 
stove  funnels  collected  a  quantity  of  ice  within  them, 
notwithstanding^  flres  were  kept  up  night  and  day,  so 
that  it  was  frequently  requisite  to  take  them  down  in 
order  to  break  and  melt  the  ice  out  of  them. 

Nothing  was  seen  of  the  sun  for  forty -two  days. 

On  the  15th  of  April,  Mr.  A.  Elder,  Greenland  mate 
of  the  Hecla,  died  of  dropsy:  he  had  been  leading  man 
with  Parry  on  Ross's  voyage,  and  for  his  good  conduct 
Yas  made  mate  of  the  Griper,  on  the  last  expedition. 

On  the  6th  of  September,  1823,  Mr.  George  Fife,  the 
jfUlot,  also  died  of  scurvy. 


takry's  second  voyage. 


12ft 


get 


to 

ibt 


ii 
tt 


After  taking  a  review  of  their  provisions,  and  the 
probability  of  having  to  pass  a  third  winter  here,  Capt. 
rarry  deteniiined  to  send  the  Ilecla  home,  taking  from 
lier  all  the  provision  that  could  be  spared.  Little  or 
no  hopes  could  be  entertained  of  any  passage  being 
found  to  the  westward,  otherwise  than  by  the  strait  now 
60  firmly  closed  with  ice ;  but  Parry  trusted  that  some 
interesting  additions  might  be  made  to  the  geography 
of  these  dreary  regions,  by  attempting  a  passage  to  the 
nortliward  or  eastward,  in  hopes  of  finding  an  outlet  to 
Lancaster  Sound,  or  Prince  llegent's  Inlet. 

On  the  21st  of  April,  1823,  they  began  transsliipping 
the  provisions  ;  the  teams  of  dogs  being  found  most 
useful  for  this  purpose.  Even  two  anchors  of  22  cwt. 
each,  were  drawn  by  these  noble  animals  at  a  quick 
trot. 

Upon  admitting  daylight  at  the  stern  windows  of  the 
Ilecla,  on  the  22d,  the  gloomy,  sooty  cabin  showed  to 
no  great  advantage  ;  no  less  than  ten  buckets  of  ice  were 
taken  from  the  sashes  and  out  of  the  stern  lockers,  from 
which  latter  some  spare  flannels  and  instruments  were 
only  liberated  by  chopping. 

On  the  7th  of  June,  Captain  Lyon,  with  a  party  of 
men,  set  off  across  the  Melville  Peninsula,  to  endeavor 
to  get  a  sight  of  the  western  sea,  of  which  they  had  re- 
ceived descriptive  accounts  from  the  natives,  but  ow- 
ing to  the  difiiculties  of  traveling,  and  the  ranges  of 
mountains  they  mec  with,  they  returned  unsuccessful, 
after  being  out  twenty  days.  Another  inland  trip  of  a 
fortnight  followed. 

On  the  1st  of  August,  the  Ilecla  was  reported  ready 
for  sea.  Some  symptoms  of  scurvy  having  again  made 
their  appearance  in  the  ships,  and  the  surgeons  report- 
ing that  it  would  not  be  prudent  to  continue  longer; 
Ca])tain  Pariy  reluctantly  determined  to  proceed  home 
witli  botli  ships.  After  being  319  days  in  their  winter 
quarters,  the  ships  got  away  on  the  9th  of  August. 

A  conspicuous  landmark,  with  dispatches,  was  set 
up  on  tlie  main-land,  for  tlie  int'urniation  of  Franklin, 
Bhonld  he  reach  tliiti  quarter. 
d 


'I    , 


126 


I'KOGRESb    OF   AKCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


On  reacluTin^  Winter  Island,  and  visiting  tlicir  la.-^i 
year's  gardon,  radishes,  mustard  and  cress,  and  onions 
were  brought  off,  whicli  had  survived  tlie  winter  and 
were  still  alive,  seventeen  months  from  the  time  tlu'V 
were  planted,  a  very  remarkal)le  j>root'  of  their  having 
been  preserved  by  the  warm  covering  of  snow. 

The  ships,  during  the  whole  of  this  passage,  were 
driven  by  the  current  more  than  tiiree  degrees,  entirely 
at  the  mercy  of  the  ice,  being  carried  into  every  bight, 
and  swept  over  each  point,  without  the  power  of  help- 
ing tliemselves. 

On  the  1st  of  September,  they  were  driven  up  Lyon 
Inlet,  where  they  were  confined  high  up  till  the  0th, 
when  a  breeze  sprung  u]),  whicii  t(.)ok  them  down  to 
within  three  miles  of  Winter  Island  ;  still  it  was  not 
until  the  12th,  that  they  got  thoroughly  clear  of  the  in- 
draught. The  danger  and  suspense  of  these  twelve 
days  were  horrible,  and  Lyon  justly  observes,  that  he 
would  prefer  being  frozen  up  cUiring  another  eleven 
months'  winter,  to  again  passing  so  anxious  a  period 
of  time. 

"  Ten  of  the  twelve  nights  were  ]xissed  on  deck,  in 
expectation,  each  tide,  of  some  decided  change  in  our 
aftairs,  either  by  being  left  on  the  rocks,  or  grounding 
in  such  shoal  water,  thtit  the  M'hole  bodv  of  the  ice  must 
have  slid  over  us.  Ihtt,  as  that  good  old  seanuin  DatUn 
expresses  himself,  '  (rod,  who  is  greater  than  either  ice 
or  tide,  always  delivered  us! '" 

For  thirty-five  days  the  ships  had  been  beset,  and  in 
that  period  had  driven  witli  the  ice  above  800  miles, 
without  any  exertion  on  their  ])art,  and  also  without  a 
possibility  of  extricating  themselves.  On  the  2;)<i  <>f 
September,  they  once  more  got  into  the  swell  of  tiio 
Atlantic,  and  on  the  10th  of  October,  tlrrived  at  Ler- 
wick, in  Shetland. 

Claveeing's  Yoyage  tc»  Spitzbeegen  and  GrEE2T- 

LAND.    1823. 

In  1820,  Cnpt.  Sabine,  K.  A.,  who  had  been  for  some 
time  eng:!/^('d   in   magm-tic  observations,  and   also  in 


clavkring's  voyage. 


lis. 


oil*  Iji!^ 

tor  rtinl 

lie  tlit'V 

luiviiig 

JO,    W(M'0 

outiivly 
•y  bi<>'lit, 
of  lu'lp- 

np  Lvon 

tlie  Cth, 

clown  to 

was  not 

of  tlie  in- 

e  twolvc 

1,  that  ho 

ii'  olevtn 

a  period 

deck,  in 
»;o  in  our 
iroundiiiii; 
[i  ice  must 
Ian  Eatiin 

itlier  ice 

^t,  and  in 
loo  niih'j^, 
Ivithout  a 
e,  Hod  of 
|;11  of  the 
at  Ler- 


|Gree5t- 

Ifor  pome 
ids(»  in 


experiments  to  determine  tlie  confijjjnration  of  the  eai'th, 
by  means  of  pendulum  vibrationn  in  dilfereiit  latitudes, 
havinoj  perfected  his  observations  at  different  ])oints, 
from  the  E(|uator  to  the  Arctic  Circle,  suggested  to  the 
Koyal  Society,  through  Sir  Humphry  Davy,  the  iinj)or- 
tance  of  extending  similar  experiments  into  higlier  lat- 
itudes toward  the  Pole.  Acct»rding]y,  tlie  government 
placed  at  his  disposal  II.  M.  S.  Griper,  120  tons,  Com- 
nnmder  Clavering,  which  was  to  convey  him  to  S|  itz- 
beiojen,  and  thence  to  the  east  coast  of  Greenland. 

The  Griper  sailed  from  the  Nore,  on  the  11th  of  May, 
and  proceeded  to  Ilammerfest,  or  AVliale  Island,  near 
the  North  Cape,  in  Norway,  which  she  reached  on  the 
4th  of  June,  and  Capt.  Sabine  having  finished  his  shore 
observations  by  the  23d,  the  vessel  set  sail  for  Si)itzber- 
gen.  Slie  fell  in  with  ice  off  Cherry  Island,  in  hit.  75^ 
5',  on  the  27th,  and  on  the  30th  disembarked  the  tents 
and  instruments  on  one  of  the  small  islands  round 
llakluyt's  Headland,  near  the  eightieth  parallel.  Capt. 
Chiverin^,  meanwhile,  sailed  in  the  Griper  due  north, 
and  reaclied  the  latitude  of  80°  20',  where  being  stop- 
ped by  close  packed  ice,  lie  was  obliged  to  return. 

On  the  21:th  of  July,  they  again  put  to  sea,  directing 
their  course  for  the  highest  known  point  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  Greenland.  They  met  with  many  fields  of  ice, 
and  made  the  land,  which  had  a  most  miserable,  deso- 
late a]ipearance,  at  a  point  which  was  named  Cape  Bor- 
lase  iVarren.  Two  islands  were  discovered,  and  as 
(^apt.  Sabine  here  landed  and  carried  on  his  observa- 
tions, tliey  were  called  Pendulum  Islands.  From  an 
island  situate  in  lat.  75'^  12',  to  which  he  gave  the  name 
of  Shannon  Island,  Clavering  saw  high  land,  stretch- 
ing due  north  as  far  as  lat.  7(>°. 

On  the  16th  of  August,  Clavering  landed  with  a 
party  of  three  officers,  and  sixteen  men  on  the  main- 
land, to  examine  the  shores.  The  temperature  did  not 
sink  below  23°,  and  they  slept  for  nearly  a  fortnight 
thev  were  on  shore  with  onlv  a  boat-cloak  jyid  blanket 
for  a  covering,  without  feeling  any  inconvenience  from 
the  cold.     A  tribe  of  twelve  Esquimaux  wai^  met  with 


128 


PEOGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


here.  They  rctichcd  in  their  jouriujy  a  Tnajyiiiticenl 
inlet,  about  fifty  miles  in  circnnit'ereiiee,  wlijch  was  sup- 
posed to  be  the  same  which  Gale  IJamkes  discovered 
in  1054,  and  which  bears  his  name.  The  mountains 
round  its  sides  were  4000  to  5000  feet  high.  On  the 
2J>th  of  August,  they  returned  on  board,  and  liaving 
embarked  tlie  tents  and  instrumeiits,  the  sliip  again  set 
sail  on  the  31st,  keeping  tlie  coast  in  view^  tt)  Capo 
Parry,  hit.  72  i°.  The  clilfs  were  observed  to  be  sev- 
eral thousand  feet  high.  On  the  l^Jth  of  September, 
as  the  ice  in  shore  began  to  get  very  troublesome,  the 
ship  stood  out  to  sea,  and  after  encountering  a  very 
heavy  gale,  which  drove  them  with  great  fury  to  tijo 
southward,  and  it  not  being  thought  prudent  to  make 
for  Ireland,  a  station  in  about  the  same  latitude  on  the 
Norw^ay  coast  was  chosen  instead  by  Capt.  Sabine. 
Thev  made  the  land  about  the  latitude  of  Ciiristian- 
sound.  On  the  1st  of  October,  the  Griper  struck  hard 
on  a  sunken  rock,  but  got  off  undamaged. 

On  the  6th,  they  anchored  in  lirontheim  Fiord, 
where  they  'svere  received  with  much  kinvi;,cs8  and  hos- 
pitality, and  after  the  necessary  ol)servations  had  been 
completed  the  ship  proceeded  homeward,  and  reached 
Deptford  on  the  19th  of  December,  1823. 

Lyon's  Voyage  in  the  Griper. 

In  1824,  three  expeditions  were  ordered  out,  to  carry 
on  simultaneous  operations  in  Arctic  discovery.  To 
Capt.  Lyon  was  committed  the  task  of  examining  and 
completing  the  survey  of  the  Melville  Peninsula,  the 
adjoining  straits,  and  the  shores  of  Arctic  America,  if 
possible  as  far  as  Franklin's  turning  point.  Capt.  Lyon 
.was  therefore  gazetted  to  the  Griper  gun-brig,  which 
had  taken  out  Capt.  Sabine  to  Spitzbergai,  in  tlie  pre- 
vious year.  The  following  officers  and  crew  were  also 
apj)oiuted  to  her  : — 

Griper. 

Captain  —  G.  F.  Lyon. 

Lieutenants  —  P.  Manico  and  F.  Harding. 


LYON  8    VOYAGE. 


129 


HcenI 
8  8up- 
vered 
itsiins 
11  tho 
siviii^ 
Lin  set 
Csipo 
le  sev- 
iinber, 
10,  thu 
I  very 

to  t.ld 

f  iTiuke 
on  the 
nibine. 
ristiiin- 
k  hard 

Fiord, 
id  hos- 
d  been 
eached 


0  carry 
y.     To 

urf  and 
ihi,  the 
riea,  if 
,  Lvon 
which 
;he  pre- 
ere  also 


'g- 


.A -Pistant-Survcyor  —  E.  N.  Kendal. 
Piuv^er — »J.  Evans. 
A  ssibtant-Surgeon  —  W.  Leyson. 
Midslu'puian  —  J.Tom. 
34  Petty  OtHcers,  Seamen,  &e. 
Total  coniplement,  41. 

It  v^'us  not  till  the  20th  of  Jnne,  that  tlie  Griper  f^ot 
hway  from  England,  being  a  fnll  month  hiter  than  the 
usual  period  of  departure,  and  tiie  vessel  was  at  tlie 
bent  but  an  old  tub  in  her  sailing  propensities.  A  small 
tender,  called  the  /Snap,  was  ordered  to  accompany  her 
with  stores,  as  far  as  tlie  ice,  and  having  been  relieved 
of  her  supplies,  she  was  sent  home  on  reaching  Hud- 
son's Straits. 

The  Griper  made  but  slow  progress  in  her  deeply  la- 
den state,  her  crowded  decks  being  continually  swept 
by  heavy  seas,  and  it  was  not  until  the  end  of  August, 
that  she  rounded  the  southern  head  of  Southampton 
Island,  and  stood  up  toward  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  Wei 
come.  On  reaching  the  entrance  of  this  channel  they 
encountered  a  terrific  gale,  which  for  a  long  time 
tlii'(>nteiied  the  destruction  of  both  ship  and  crew. 
Drifting  with  this,  they  brought  up  the  ship  with  four 
anchors,  in  a  bay  with  five  fathoms  and  a  half  water, 
in-the  momentary  expectation  that  with  the  ebb  tide 
t!ie  ship  would  take  the  ground,  as  the  sea  broke  fear- 
fully on  a  low  sandy  beach  just  astern,  and  had  the  an- 
chors parted,  nothing  could  have  saved  the  vessel. 
Neither  commander  nor  crew  had  been  in  bed  for  three 
nights,  and  although  little  hope  was  entertained  of  sur- 
viving the  gale,  and  no  boat  could  live  in  such  a  sea, 
the  orticers  and  crew  performed  their  several  duties 
with  their  accustomed  coolness.  Each  man  was  or- 
dered to  put  on  his  warmest  clothing,  and  to  take  charge 
of  some  useful  instrument.  The  scene  is  best  described 
in  the  Avords  of  the  gallant  commander  : — 

"Each,  therefore,  brought  his  bag  on  deck,  and 
dressed  himself;  and  in  the  fine  athletic  formp  v.hich 
stood  exposed  before  me,  1  did  not  see  one  muscle  qui- 


130 


rK()(iKi;ss  ov  a,uctio  disuovkuy. 


/  { 


ver,  nor  the  si io-litost  h1j;ii  of  altirm.  Prayers  wero  rcftcl, 
and  tlioy  tlion  all  hjit  clown  in  ^ronps,  Blieltored  from  tho 
wash  of  the  sea  hy  whatever  tliey  coultl  lind,  and  sonio 
endeavored  to  obtain  a  little  sleep.  >«ever,  perhaps 
was  witnessed  a  finer  scene  than  on  the  deek  of  ni^ 
little  ship,  when  all  hope  of  life  had  left  us.  Noble  as 
tho  character  of  the  British  sailor  is  always  allowed  to 
be  in  case«  of  danger,  yet  I  did  not  believe  it  to  be  pos- 
sible that  anioni^  forty -one  persons  not  one  repining 
word  should  have  been  uttered.  Each  was  at  j)eaco 
with  his  nei<^hbor  and  all  the  world  ;  and  I  am  iinniy 
pei'suaded  tliat  the  resignation  which  was  then  shown 
to  the  will  of  the  Almighty,  was  the  means  of  obtain- 
ing 1 1  is  mercy.  God  Mas  merciful  to  us,  and  the  tide, 
almost  miraculously,  fell  no  lower."  The  api)ropriate 
name  of  the  l>ay  of  God's  Mercy  has  been  given  to 
this  spot  on  the  charts  by  Captain  Lyon. 

Pioceeding  onward  up  the  AVelcome,  they  encoun- 
tered, about  a  fortnight  later,  another  fearful  storm. 
On  the  12th  of  September,  when  off  the  entrance  of 
Wager  Inlet,  it  blew  so  hard  for  two  days,  that  on  tho 
lij\h  the  ship  was  driven  from  her  anchors,  and  carried 
away  by  the  fury  of  the  gale,  with  every  prospect  of 
being  momentarily  dashed  to  ])iece8  against  any  hid- 
den rock ;  but  the  same  good  Providence  which  had 
so  recently  befriended  them,  again  stood  their  protec- 
tor. Oil  consulting  with  his  officers,  it  was  unani- 
mously resolved,  that  in  the  crip])led  state  of  the  ship, 
without  any  anchor,  and  with  her  compasses  worse 
than  useless,  it  would  be  madness  to  coutinue  the  voy- 
age, and  the  ship's  course  was  therefore  shaped  for 
Enghmd. 

I  may  observe,  that  the  old  Griper  is  now  laid  up  as 
a  hulk  in  Chichester  Harbor,  furnishing  a  residence 
and  depot  for  the  coast  guard  station. 

Parry's  Third  YoYAor. 

In  the  spring  of  1824:  the  Admiralty  determined  to 
give  Capt.  Parry  another  opportunity  of  carrying  ort 


rAKUVH    TIIIUI)    VOYAGE. 


131 


id  to 
!,  OVt 


tlio  j!;i*eut  problem  wliich  hud  so  lonjif  been  floiinrlit  af- 
ter, ot'u  ii(»rili\vc'8t  |)ass{i<;e  to  the  I'ttcitic,  and  wo  ^an- 
orally  estecuiud  was  thin  {gallant  coiiiinaiider  that  he 
liad  i)iit  to  iioist  hiH  ])onnaMt,  when  t'earlcHS  of  all  daii- 
j;er,  and  in  a  noble  8i)irit  of  emulation,  his  former  as- 
sociates rallied  around  him. 

The  same  two  ships  were  employed  as  before,  bui 
Parry  now  selected  the  llecla  for  his  pennant.  The 
Btalf  of  otlicers  and  men  was  as  follows  :  — 

Ileda. 

Captain  — W.E.  Parry. 

Lieutenants  —  .T.   L.    Wynn,   Joseph  Sherer,  and 

Henry  Foster. 
Surgeon  —  Samuel  Neill,  M.  D. 
Purser  —  W.  II.  Hooper. 
Assistant  Surgeon — W.  Rowland. 
Midshipmen  —  J.   Brunton,  F.   R.  M.  Crozier,   C. 

Richards,  and  II  N.  Head. 
Greenland    Pilots  —  J.   Allison,  master;    and  G. 

Champion,  mate. 
49  Petty  Olficers,  Seamen,  and  Marines. 
Total  complement,  62. 

Fury. 

Commander  —  H.  P.  Iloppner. 

Lieutenants  —  H.  T.  Austin  and  J.  0.  EoSB. 

Surgeon — A.  M'Laren. 

Purser —  J.  Halse. 

Assistant  Surgeon —  T.  Bell. 

Midshipmen  —  B.  Westropp,  C.  0.  Waller,  and  E. 
Bird. 

Clerk  —  W.  Mogg. 

Greenland  Pilots  —  G.  Crawford,  master ;  T.  Don- 
aldson, mate. 

48  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  and  Marines. 
Total  complement,  60. 

The  William  Harris,  transport,  was  commissioned 
to  accompany  the  ships  to  the  ice  with  provisions. 


i 


•  I 


132 


PKOOKESS    OF    ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


Amoii«ij  the  promotions  made,  it  will  be  seen,  were 
Lient.  Iloppiier  to  the  rank  of  Commander,  and  second 
in  command  of  the  expedition.  Messrs.  J.  Slierer, 
and  J.  C.  Ross  to  be  Lieutenants,  and  J.  Halse  to  bo 
Purser.  The  attempt  on  this  occasion  was  to  be  made 
by  Lancaster  Sound  tli rough  Barrow's  Strait  to  Prince 
Regent  Inlet.  The  sliips  sailed  on  the  10th  of  May, 
1824,  and  a  month  afterward  fell  in  with  the  body  of 
the  ice  in  lat.  601°.  After  transhipping  the  stores  to 
the  two  vessels,  and  sending  home  the  transport,  about 
the  middle  of  July  they  were  close  beset  with  the  ice 
in  Baffin's  Bay,  and  "from  this  time  (says  Parry)  the 
obstructions  from  the  quantity,  magnitude,  and  close- 
ness of  the  ice,  which  were  such  as  to  keep  our  people 
almost  constantly  employed  in  heaving,  warping,  or 
sawing  through  it;  and  yet  with  so  little  success  tluit, 
at  the  close  of  July,  we  had  only  penetrated  seventy 
miles  to  the  westward,"  After  encountering  a  severe 
gale  on  the  1st  of  August,  by  which  masses  of  overlay- 
ing ice  were  driven  one  upon  the  other,  the  Ilecla  was 
laid  on  her  broadside  by  a  strain,  which  Parry  s.iy8 
must  inevitably  have  crushed  a  vessel  of  ordinary 
strength ;  they  got  clear  of  the  chief  obstructions  by 
the  iirst  week  in  September.  During  the  whole  of 
August  they  had  not  one  day  sufficiently  free  from 
rain,  snow,  or  sleet,  to  be  able  to  air  the  bedding  of 
the  sliip's  company. 

They  entered  Lancaster  Sound  on  the  10th  of  Sep- 
tember, and  with  the  exception  of  a  solitary  berg  or 
two  found  it  clear  of  ice.  A  few  days  after,  however, 
they  fell  in  with  the  young  ice,  which  increasing  daily 
in  thickness,  the  ships  became  beset,  and  by  the  cur- 
rent which  set  to  the  east  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an 
hour,  they  were  soon  drifted  back  to  the  eastward  of 
Admiralty  Inlet,  and  on  the  23d  they  found  them- 
selves again  off  Wollaston  Island,  at  the  entrance  of 
Navy  Board  Inlet.  By  perseverance,  hovrever,  and  the 
aid  of  a  strong  easterly  breeze,  they  once  more  man- 
aged to  recover  their  lost  ground,  and  on  the  27tb 
reached  the  enti'ance  of  Port  Bowen  on  the  eastern 


PARRY  S   THIRD   VOYAGE. 


1?>3 


rg  or 
ever, 
daily 
le  cur- 
ies an 
ird  of 
t  hem- 
ice  of 
lid  the 
inan- 
B  27tb 
astern 


I 


shore  of  Prince  Regent  Inlet,  and  here  Pariy  resolved 
ii])(in  wintering;  this  making  the  fourth  winter  this 
enter])rising  commander  had  passed  in  these  inhospi- 
table seas. 

The  nsual  laborious  process  of  cutting  canals  had  to 
be  resorted  to,  in  order  to  get  the  ships  near  to  tlie 
shore  in  secure  and  sheltered  situations.  Parrv  tlnis 
describes  the  dreary  monotonous  character  of  an  arctic 
winter : — 

''It  is  hard  to  conceive  any  one  thino;  more  like 
another  than  two  winters  passed  in  the  higher  latitudes 
of  the  Tiolar  regions,  excejjt  when  variety  happens  to 
be  afforded  bv  intercourse  w'ith  some  other  branch  of 
the  whole  family  of  man.  "Winter  after  winter,  nature 
here  assumes  an  aspect  so  much  alike,  that  cursory  ol)- 
servatiuu  can  scarcelv  detect  a  single  feature  of  varietv. 
The  winter  ot  m')re  temperate  climates,  and  even  in 
some  of  no  slight  severitv,  is  occasional! v  diversiiied 
by  a  thaw,  w  hich  at  once  gives  variety  and  compara- 
tive cheerfulness  to  the  prospect.  P)Ut  liere,  when  once 
the  earth  is  covered,  all  is  dreary  monottmous  white- 
ness, not  merely  for  days  or  weeks,  but  for  more  than 
half  a  year  together.  Whichever  Avay  the  eye  is  turn- 
ed, it  meets  a  picture  calculated  to  impress  upon  the 
mind  an  idea  of  inanimate  stillness,  of  that  motionless 
torpor  with  "udiich  our  feelings  have  nothing  congenial ; 
of  any  thing,  in  short,  but  life.  In  the  very  silence 
there  is  a  deadness  with  which  a  human  spectator  ap- 
pears out  of  heeping.  The  presence  of  man  seems  an 
intrusion  on  the  dreary  solitude  of  this  wintry  desert, 
which  even  its  native  animals  have  for  awhile  forsaken." 

During  this  year  Parry  tells  us  the  thermometer  re- 
mained below  zero  131  days,  and  did  not  rise  above 
that  point  till  the  11th  of  April.  The  sun,  which  had 
been  absent  from  their  view  121  days,  again  blessed 
the  crews  with  his  rays  on  the  22d  of  February.  Du- 
ring this  long  imprisonment,  schools,  scientific  observa- 
tions, walking  parties,  etc.,  w^ere  resorted  to,  but  "  our 
former  amusements,"  says  Parry,  "  being  almost  worn 
threadbare,  it  required  some  ingenuity  to  devise  any 

6* 


"1^ 


134 


PKOGRESS   OF   AKCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


i    ) 


i     : 


*     ! 


f 


plan  that  phould  possess  the  charm  of  novelty  to  re- 
\.  liappy  idea  was,  however,  hit  upon  by 


coi 


nmend 
Connnand 
ha  I  masque  was 


ojjpner,  at  whose  suggest 


held,  to  the 


great 


ever , 

monthly 
iversion  of  both 


officers  and  men,  to  the  number  of  120.  The  populai 
coiinnander  entered  gayly  into  their  recreations,  and 
thus  speaks  of  these  polar  masquerades  :  — 

"■  It  is  impossible  that  any  idea  could  have  proved 
more  happy,  or  more  exactly  suited  to  our  situation. 
Admirably  dressed  characters  of  various  descriptions 
readily  took  their  parts,  and  many  of  these  were  sup- 
ported with  a  degree  of  spirit  and  genuine  good  humor 
wliich  would  not  have  disgraced  a  more  refined  assem- 
bly ;  while  the  latter  might  not  have  been  disgraced 
by  co})ying  the  good  order,  decorum,  and  inoifensive 
cheerfulness  which  our  humble  masquerades  presented. 
It  does  especial  credit  to  the  dispositions  and  good 
sense  of  our  men,  that  though  all  the  officers  entered 
fully  into  the  spirit  of  these  amusements,  which  took 
place  once  a  month  alternately  on  board  of  each  ship, 
no  instance  occurred  of  any  thing  that  could  interfere 
with  the  regular  discipline,  or  at  all  weaken  the  respect 
of  the  men  toward  their  superiors.  Ours  were  mas 
queriides  withc>ut  licentiousness  —  carnivals  without 
excess." 

Exploring  parties  were  sent  out  in  several  directions. 
Commander  Iloppner  and  his  party  went  inland,  and 
after  a  fortnight's  fatiguing  journey  over  a  mountain- 
ous, barren,  and  desolate  country,  where  precipitous  ra- 
vines 500  feet  deep  obstructed  their  passage,  traveled 
a  degree  and  three-quarters  —  to  the  latitude  of  73°  19', 
but  saw  no  appearance  of  sea  from  thence. 

Lieutenant  Sherer,  with  four  men,  proceeded  to  the 
southward,  and  made  a  careful  survey  of  the  coast  as 
far  as  72  i",  but  had  not  provisions  sufficient  to  go 
round  Cape  Kater,  the  southernmost  point  observed  in 
their  former  voyage. 

Lieutenant  J.  C.  Ross,  with  a  similar  party,  traveled 
to  the  northward,  along  the  coast  of  the  Inlet,  and  from 
the  hills  about  Cape  York,  observed  that  the  sea  was 


I 


PARRY  S   THIRD   VOYAGE. 


135 


;o  re- 
011  by 
iithly 
■  both 
)pulai 
I,  and 

►roved 
lation. 
ptions 
e  sup- 
huinor 
assem- 
trraced 
tensive 
sented. 
d  good 
entered 
•h  took 
;li  ship, 
itertere 
espect 
mas 
svithout 

Bctions. 

id,  and 

iintain- 
ous  ra- 
aveled 

73°  19', 

I  to  tlie 
;oast  as 
to  p;o 
Irved  in 

raveled 
id  from 
kea  was 


perfectly  open  and   free  from  ice  at  the  distance  of 
twenty-two  miles  from  the  sliips. 

After  an  imprisonment  of  al)ont  ten  months,  by  great 
exertions  the  ships  were  got  cl^ar  from  the  ice,  and  on 
the  20th  of  July,  1825,  ii])on  the  separation  of  tlie  Hoe 
across  the  harboi*,  towed  ont  to  sea.  Parry  then  made 
for  the  western  shore  of  the  Inlet,  being  desirous  of  ex- 
amining the  coast  of  North  Somerset  for  any  channel 
that  might  occur,  a  jjivhaliinty  which  later  discoveries 
in  that  quarter  have  proved  to  be  without  foundation. 
On  the  28th,  when  well  in  with  the  western  shore,  the 
Ilecla,  in  si)ite  of  ever^^  exertion,  was  beset  by  floating 
ice,  and  after  breaking  two  large  ice  anchors  in  en- 
deavoring to  heave  in  shore,  was  obliged  to  give  up  the 
effort  and  drift  with  the  ice  until  the  30th.  On  the 
following  day,  a  heavy  gale  came  on,  in  wh.ich  the 
Ilecla  carried  away  three  hawsers,  wliile  the  Fury  was 
driven  on  shore,  but  was  hove  off  at  higli  water.  Both 
ships  were  now  drifted  by  tlie  body  of  the  ice  downtiie 
Inlet,  and  took  the  ground,  the  Fury  being  so  nipped 
and  strained  that  she  leaked  a  great  deal,  and  four 
pumps  kept  constantly  at  work  did  not  keep  her  clear 
of  water.  They  were  floated  oft*  at  high  water,  but, 
late  on  the  2nd  of  August,  the  huge  masses  of  ice  once 
more  forced  tlie  Fury  on  shore,  and  the  Ilecla  narrowly 
escaped.  On  examining  her  and  getting  her  off,  it 
was  found  that  she  must  be  hove  down  and  repaired  ; 
a  basin  was  therefore  formed  for  her  reception  and 
completed  by  the  16th,  a  mile  further  to  the  southward, 
within  three  icebergs  grounded,  where  there  were  three 
or  four  fathoms  of  water.  Into  this  basin  she  was 
taken  on  the  18th,  and  her  stores  and  provisions  being 
removed,  she  was  hove  down,  but  a  gale  of  wind  com- 
ing on  and  destroying  the  masses  of  ice  which  shel- 
tered her,  it  became  necessary  to  re-embark  the  stores, 
&c.,  ami  once  more  put  to  sea  ;  but  the  unfortunate 
vessel  had  hardly  got  out  of  her  harbor  before,  on  Ihe 
21st,  she  was  again  driven  on  shore.  Aftei*  a  careful 
survey  and  examination,  it  was  found  necessary  to 
abandon  her  :  Parry's  opinion  being  thus  expressed  — 


r 


l! 


r-'rfnim 


•Ml 


■;Hi 


ii 


t)  I 


f 


136 


niOGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVEKY. 


"  Every  ciuloiu^or  of  ours  to  get  her  off,  or  if  got  off,  to 
flout  her  to  any  kiiowji  phice  of  safety,  would  be  at 
once  utterly  hopeless  in  itself,  and  productive  of  ex- 
treme rihk  to  our  remaining  sliip." 

The  loss  of  this  ship,  and  the  crowded  state  of  the 
remaining  vessel,  made  it  impossihle  to  think  of  con- 
tinuing the  voyage  for  the  ^^urposes  of  discovery. 

"  The  incessant  labor,  the  constant  state  of  anxiety, 
and  the  frequent  and  imminent  danger  into  which  the 
surviving  yhip  was  thrown,  in  the  attempts  to  save  her 
comrade,  which  were  continued  for  twenty-five  days, 
destroyed  every  reasonable  expectation  hitherto  cher- 
ished of  the  ultimate  accomplishment  of  this  object." 

Taking  advantage  of  a  northerly  wind,  on  the  27tli 
the  llecla  stretched  across  the  Inlet  for  the  eastern 
coast,  meeting  with  little  obstruction  from  the  ice,  and 
anchored  in  Keill's  Harbor,  a  short  distance  to  the 
southward  of  their  winter  quarters,  Port  Bowen,  where 
the  ship  M-as  got  ready  for  crossing  the  Atlantic. 

The  Hecla  put  to  sea  on  the  31st  of  August,  and  en- 
tering Barrow's  Strait  on  tlie  Ist  of  September,  found 
it  perfectly  clear  of  ice.  In  Lancaster  Sound,  a  very 
large  number  of  bergs  were  seen  ;  but  they  found  an 
open  sea  in  BatKn's  Bay,  till,  on  the  7th  of  September, 
when  in  latitude  75°  30',  they  came  to  the  margin  of 
the  ice,  and  soon  entered  a  clear  channel  on  its  eastern 
side.  From  tliii-ty  to  forty  large  icebergs,  not  less  than 
200  feet  in  height,  were  sighted. 

On  the  12tli  of  Octoljer,  Captain  Parry  landed  at 
Peterhead,  and  the  Ilccla  arrived  at  Sheerness  on  the 
20th.  But  one  num  died  during  this  voyage  —  John 
Page,  a  seaman  of  the  Fury  —  who  died  of  scurvy,  in 
JS'eilFs  Harbor,  on  the  20tirof  August. 

This  voyage  cannot  but  be  considered  the  most  unsuc- 
cessful of  the  three  made  l)y  Parry,  whether  as  regards 
the  information  gleaned  on  the  sul)ject  of  a  northwest 
passage,  or  the  extension  of  our  store  of  geographical 
or  scientific  knowledge.  Tl;e  shoves  of  this  inlet  were 
more  naked,  barren,  and  dtisohite  than  even  Melville 
Island.     With  the  exception  of  some  hundreds  of  white 


/ 

f 


FKANICLIN'S   SECOND  EXPEDITION. 


137 


s  than             1 1 

led  at             f  ^ 

on  tho             '  j 
-  John               J 

•vy,  in              M 

insuc-             ft 
\o'ards             'l 
hwest               1 
phical               J 

wore              M 
i'lvillo               M 
vvhito              m 

whales,  seen  sportinoj  about  the  southernmost  part  of 
tho  Inlet  that  was  visited,  few  other  species  of  auimak 
were  seen. 

"  We  have  scarcely,"  says  Pany, "  ever  visited  a  coast 
on  which  so  little  of  animal  life  occurs.  For  days  to- 
getlier  only  one  or  two  seals,  a  single  sea-horse,  and 
now  and  then  a  flock  of  ducks  were  seen." 

lie  still  clings  to  the  accomplishment  of  the  great 
object  of  a  nortliwest  passage.  At  page  184  of  his  offi- 
cial narrative,  he  says: — 

"  I  feel  confident  that  the  undertaking,  if  it  be  deemed 
advisable  at  any  future  time  to  pursue  it,  will  one  day 
or  other  be  accomplished  ;  for  —  setting  aside  the  acci- 
dents to  which,  from  their  very  nature,  such  attempts 
must  be  liable,  as  well  as  other  unfavorable  circum- 
stances which  human  foresight  can  never  guard  against, 
or  human  power  control  —  I  cannot  but  believe  it  to 
be  an  enterprise  well  within  tlie  reasonable  limits  of 
practicability.  It  may  be  tried  often  and  fail,  for  seve- 
ral favorable  and  fortunate  circumstances  must  be  com- 
bined for  its  accomplishment ;  but  I  believe,  neverthe- 
less, that  it  will  ultimately  be  accomplished." 

"  I  am  much  mistaken,  indeed,"  he  adds,  "  if  the 
northwest  passage  ever  becomes  the  business  of  a  single 
summer ;  nay,  1  believe  that  nothing  but  a  concurrence 
of  very  favorable  circumstances  is  likely  ever  to  make 
a  single  winter  in  the  ice  sufficient  for  its  accomplish- 
ment. But  there  is  no  argument  against  the  possibility 
of  final  success ;  for  we  know  that  a  winter  in  the  ice 
may  be  passed  not  only  in  safety,  but  in  health  and 
comfort." 

Not  one  winter  alone,  but  two  and  three  have  been 
passed  with  health  and  safety  in  these  seas,  imder  a 
wise  and  careful  commander. 

Franklin's  Second  Expedition,  1825-26. 

Undaunted  by  the  hardships  and  sufferings  he  had 
encountered  in  his  previous  travels  with  a  noble  spirit 
of  ardor  and  enthusiasm.  Captain  Franklin  determined 


# 


M 


f 


ihfififi 


i 


!    I 


138 


PROGEESS   OF  ARCllC  DISCOVERY. 


to  prosecute  the  chain  of  his  former  discoveries  from 
tlie  Coppermine  river  to  the  most  western  point  of  the 
Arctic  regions.  A  sea  expedition,  nndertiie  command 
of  Captain  Beechey  was  at  the  same  time  sent  round 
^  Cape  llorn  to  Behring's  Straits,  t* » co-operate  with  Pairy 
and  Franklin,  so  as  to  furnish  provisions  to  tlie  former, 
and  a  conveyance  home  to  the  hitter. 

Captain  I'ranklin's  offer  was  therefore  accepted  by 
the  government,  and  leaving  Liverpool  in  February, 
1825,  he  arrived  at  New  York  about  the  middle  of 
March.  Tlie  officers  under  his  orders  were  his  old  and 
tried  comprmions  and  fellow  sufferers  in  the  former  jour- 
nev  —  Dr.  Richardson  and  Lieutenant  Back,  with  Mr. 
E.  K".  Kendal,  a  mate  in  the  navy,  who  had  been  out  in 
the  Griper  with  Capt.  Lyon,  and  Mr.  T.  Drummond,  a 
naturalist.  Four  boats,  specially  prepared  for  tlie  pur- 
poses of  the  expedition,  were  sent  out  by  the  Hudson's 
.   Bay  Comjjany's  ship. 

In  July,  1825,  the  party  arrived  at  Fort  Chipewyan. 
It  is  unnecessary  to  go  over  the  ground  and  follow  them 
in  their  northern  journey;  suffice  it  to  say,  they  reached 
Great  Bear  Lake  in  safety,  and  erected  a  winter  dwell- 
ing on  its  western  shore,  to  which  the  name  of  Fort 
Franklin  was  given.  To  Back  and  Mr.  Dease,  an  offi- 
cer in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  service,  were  in- 
trusted tlie  arrangements  for  their  winter  quarters. 

From  here  a  small  party  set  out  with  Franklin  down 
the  Mackenzie  to  examine  the  state  of  the  Polar  Sea. 
On  the  5th  of  September  they  got  back  to  their  com- 
panions, and  prepared  to  pass  the  long  winter  of  seven 
or  eight  months. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  1826,  the  season  being  suffi- 
ciently advanced,  and  all  their  preparations  completed, 
the  Avhole  party  got  away  in  four  boats  to  descend  the 
Mackenzie  to  the  Polar  Sea.  Where  the  river  branclios 
off  into  several  channels,  the  party  separated  on  the  8d 
of  July,  Captain  Franklin  and  Lieutenant  Back,  with 
two  boats  and  fourteen  men,  having  with  tlieni  the 
faithful  Esquimaux  interpreter,  Augustus,  who  had 
been  with  them  on  the  former  expedition,  proceeded  to 


FTvANKLTNS   SECOND   EXPEDITION. 


139 


Sllffi- 

leted, 

the 

II  ell  OS 

lie  8d 

I  with 

the 

had 

id  to 


the  westward,  while  Dr.  Ilicliardson  and  Mr.  Kendal 
in  the  other  two  boats,  having;:  ten  men  under  their 
command,  set  out  in  an  easterly  direction,  to  search 
the  CoDDennine  River. 

FranKliii  arrived  at  the  moutli  of  tlio  Maclvenzio  on 
the  7th  of  July,  where  he  encountered  a  large  tribe  of 
tierce  Esijuimaux,  who  pillaged  his  boats,  and  it  was 
only  by  great  caution,  prudence  and  forbearance,  that 
the  whole  party  were  not  massacred.  After  getting  the 
boats  afloat,  and  clear  of  these  unpleasant  visitors, 
Franklin  ])ursued  his  survey,  a  most  tedious  and  ditii- 
cult  one,  for  more  than  a  month ;  he  was  only  able  to 
reach  a  point  in  latitude  70°  W  N.,  longitude  149°  37' 
"VV.,  to  which  Back's  name  was  given  ;  and  here  pru- 
dence obliged  him  to  return,  although,  strangely  enough, 
a  boat  from  the  Blossom  was  waiting  not  100  miles  west 
of  his  jDosition  to  meet  with  him.  The  extent  of  coast 
purveyed  was  371:  miles.  Tiie  return  journey  to  Foifc 
Franklin  was  safely  accomplished,  and  they  arrived  at 
their  house  on  the  31st  of  September,  when  they  found 
Richardson  and  Kendal  had  returned  on  the  flrst  of 
the  month,  having  accomplished  a  voyage  of  about  500 
miles,  or  902  by  the  coast  line,  between  the  4i  h  of  July 
and  the  8th  of  August.  They  had  pushed  forward  be- 
yond the  strait  named  after  their  boats,  the  Dolphin  and 
union. 

In  ascending  the  Coppermine,  they  had  to  abandon 
their  boats  and  carry  their  provisions  and  baggage. 

Having  passed  another  winter  at  Fort  Franklin,  as 
soon  as  the  season  broke  up  the  Canadians  were  dis- 
missed, and  the  party  returned  to  England. 

The  cold  experienced  in  tlie  hvst  winter  was  intense, 
the  thermometer  standing  at  one  time  at  58°  below  zero, 
but  having  now  plenty  of  food,  a  weather-tight  dwell- 
ing, and  good  health,  they  passed  it  cheerfully.  Dr. 
Bichardson  gave  a  course  of  lectures  on  practical  geol- 
ogy, and  Mr.  Drummond  furnished  information  on  natu- 
ral history.  During  the  winter,  in  a  solitary  hut  on  the 
Rocky  mountains,  he  managed  to  collect  200  specimens 
Df  birds,  animals,  *&c.,  and  more  than  1500  of  plants. 


mmmtimmmi 


HO 


rKOORESS   OF   AKCTIC  DTSOOVKRY. 


Whoii  Cji])tiiiii  Fnuildiii  lott  Euc^IiiikI  to  proceed  on 
this  ex])Ofliti(»ii  lie  luid  to  inulergo  ii  severe  struggle 
between  liis  feelings  of  affection  aiul  u  sense  of  duty. 
His  wife  (he  has  been  married  twice)  was  then  lying  at 
the  jK)int  of  death,  and  indeed  died  the  day  after  ho 
left  England.  But  with  heroic  fortitnde  she  vu'ged  his 
do|>a!ture  at  the  very  day  appointed,  entreating  him, 
as  he  valued  her  j^eace  and  his  own  glory,  not  to  delay 
a  moment  on  her  account.  His  feeling's,  tlierefore,  inay 
be  inferred,  but  not  described,  when  he  had  to  elevate 
on  Garry  Island  a  silk  flag,  wliicli  she  had  made  and 
given  him  as  a  parting  gift,  with  the  instruction  that 
he  was  only  to  hoist  it  on  reaching  the  Polar  Sea. 


Beechey's  Voyage. — 1826-28. 


n.  M.  SLOOP  Blossom,  26,  Ca])tain  F.  "W.  Beechey, 
sailed  from  Spithead  on  the  10th  of  May,  1825,  and 
lier  instructions  directed  her,  after  surveying  some  of 
the  islands  in  tlje  Pacific,  to  be  in  Behring's  Straits  by 
the  sunnner  or  autumn  of  1826,  and  contingently  in  that 
of  1827. 

It  is  foreign  to  my  purpose  hero  to  allude  to  those 
parts  of  her  voyage  anterior  to  her  arrival  in  tlie  Straits. 

On  the  28th  of  June  the  Blossom  came  to  an  anchor 
off  tlie  toM'n  of  Petrojiolowski,  where  she  fell  in  with 
the  Kussian  ship  of  war  Modesto,  under  the  command 
of  l>aron  AV^rangol,  so  well  known  for  his  enterprise  in 
the  hazardous  expedition  by  sledges  over  the  ice  to  the 
northward  of  Cape  Siielatskoi,  or  Errinos. 

(^ajitain  Beechey  here  found  dispatches  informing 
him  of  the  return  of  Pai-ry's  expedition.  Being  beset 
by  currents  and  other  difliculties,  it  was  not  till  tlie  5th 
of  July  that  the  Blossom  got  clear  of  the  harbor,  jind 
made  the  best  of  her  way  to  Kotzebue  Sound,  reaching 
the  a]>poiutod  rendezvous  at  Chamiso  Island  on  tlio  25th. 
AfttM- landing  and  burying  a  barrel  of  flour  upon  PufHn 
IvDck,  the  most  unfrequented  spot  about  the  island,  the 
Blo-soni  c>ccnpied  the  time  in  surveying  and  examining 


i'  'i 


BKEOllKY  8  VOYAGE. 


141 


tiie  iiei<i;lil)oi'iii<^  coasts  *  uie  iiortheast.  On  the  30th 
Hho  took  her  departure  from  the  iBhuicl,  erectiiifj  posts 
or  hunl-marlvB,  and  buryhigdinpatches  at  Cape  Ivrusen- 
-terii,  near  a  cajie  which  ho  named  after  Franklin,  near 
Icy  Caj)C. 

Tiie  sliip  returned  to  the  rendezvous  on  the  evening 
of  the  28th  of  August.  The  barrel  of  flour  had  been 
(lug  up  and  apj^ropriated  by  the  natives. 

()u  tlie  first  visit  of  one  of  these  parties,  they  con- 
Btriu'ted  a  chart  of  the  coast  upon  the  sand,  of  which, 
liuwever,  Ca^^tain  Beechey  at  first  took  very  little  notice. 
'•They,  however,  renewed  their  labor,  and  performed 
their  Avork  upon  the  sandy  beach  in  a  very  ingenious  and 
intelligible  manner.  The  coast  line  was  first  marked 
out  with  a  stick,  and  the  distances  regulated  by  the 
day's  journey.  The  hills  and  ranges  of  mountains  were 
next  shown  by  elevations  of  sand  or  stone,  and  the 
islands  represented  by  heaps  of  pebbles,  their  propor- 
tions being  duly  attended  to.  As  the  work  proceeded, 
some  of  the  bystanders  occasionally  suggested  altera- 
tions, and  Captain  Beechey  moved  one  of  the  Diomede 
Islands,  which  was  misplaced.  This  was  at  first  ob- 
jected to  by  the  hydrographer,  but  one  of  the  party 
recollecting  that  the  islands  were  seen  in  one  from  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  confirmed  its  new  position  and  made 
the  mistake  quite  evident  to  the  others,  who  were  much 
surprised  that  Captain  Beechey  should  have  any  knowl- 
edge of  the  subject.  When  the  mountains  and  islands 
were  erected,  the  villages  and  fishing-stations  were 
marked  by  a  number  of  sticks  placed  upright,  in  imita- 
tion of  those  which  are  put  up  on  the  coast  wherever 
tliese  people  fix  their  abode.  In  time,  a  complete  hy- 
drographical  plan  was  drawn  from  Cape  Derby  to  Cape 
Krnsenstern. 

This  ingenuity  and  accuracy  of  description  on  the 
part  of  the  Esquimaux  is  worthy  of  particular  remark, 
and  has  been  verified  by  almost  all  the  Arctic  explorers. 

Tiie  barge  which  had  been  dispatched  to  the  east- 
ward, under  charge  of  Mr.  Elson,  reached  to  latitude 
7r  L>3'  31"  K,  and  longitude  150°  21'  31"  W.,  where 


l\T^" 


.   I 


:ih 


l42 


I»KOGliKtS8    OF  Ala  TIC   DISCUVKUY. 


she  M'lis  Btoi)pe(.l  l)y  the  iee  which  was  attaolicd  to  the 
shore.  The  farthest  toii_i»ue  «»t'  hmd  thoy  reachiMl  was 
named  Point  Jiarrow,  and  is  tihout  12(5  niik's  northeast 
of  ley  Cape,  heing  only  ahont  150  or  !(!(»  miles  from 
Franklin's  discoveries  west  of  the  Mackenzie  river. 

The  wind  suddenly  cliunj2;ing  to  southwest,  the  com- 
pact bod}'  of  ice  began  to  drift  with  tiie  current  to  the 
northeast  at  the  rate  of  three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour, 
and  Mr.  Elson,  finding  it  dilticult  to  avoid  large  tloating 
masses  of  ice,  was  obliged  to  come  to  an  anchor  to  pre- 
vent being  driven  back.  '*  It  was  not  long  before  he  was 
BO  closely  beset  in  the  ice,  that  no  clear  water  could 
be  seen  in  any  direction  tVom  the  liills,  and  the  ice 
continuing  to  press  against  the  shore,  his  vessel  was 
driven  upon  the  beach,  and  there  left  upon  her  broad- 
side in  a  most  helpless  condition;  and  to  add  to  h'i 
cheerless  pr(<S])ect,  the  disposition  of  the  natives,  whom 
he  found  to  increase  in  numbers  as  he  advanced  to  the 
northward,  was  of  a  very  doubtfal  chai-acter.  At  Point 
Barrow,  where  thev  weie  verv  numerous,  their  oyer- 
bearing  behavior,  and  the  thefts  they  openly  ])rac- 
ticed,  left  no  doubt  of  what  would  be  the  fate  of  his 
little  crew,  in  the  event  of  their  falling  into  their 
power.  They  were  in  this  dilemma  several  days,  dur- 
ing which  everv  endeavor  was  made  to-extricate  the 
vessel  but  without  etfect,  and  Mr.  Elson  co!item plated 
sinking  her  secretly  in  a  lake  that  was  near,  to  prevent 
her  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Esquimaux,  and  then 
making  his  way  along  the  coast  in  a  baidar,  which  he 
had  no  doubt  he  should  be  able  to  purchase  from  the 
natives.  At  length,  however,  a  change  of  wind  loos- 
ened the  ice,  .nnd  after  considerable  labor  and  trial,  in 
which  the  personal  strength  of  the  oflicers  was  united 
to  that  of  the  seamen,  ?dr.  Elson,  with  his  shipmates, 
fortunately  succeeded  in  eifecting  their  escai)e. 

Captain  Beechey  was  very  anxious  to  remain  in 
Kotzebne  Sound  until  the  end  of  Dctober,  the  ])eriod 
named  in  his  instructions,  but  the  rapid  approach  of 
winter,  the  danger  of  being  locked  up,  having  only 
five  weeks'  provisions  left,  and  the  nearest  point  at 


BEKCIIEY  8   VOYAGE. 


143 


"Nvliich  ho  conUl  re]>leni8h  beinjij  some  2000  miles  dis- 
taiit,  iiiducod  his  otlicers  to  concur  witli  Jiiiti  in  tlio 
necessity  of  leiivinj]^  at  once.  A  barrel  of  Hour  and 
other  articles  were  buried  on  the  sandy  point  of  Cha- 
niiso,  for  Franklin,  which  it  was  hoped  would  escape 
the  ])rying  eyes  of  the  natives. 

After  a  cruise  to  California,  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
Loochoo,  the  Bonin  Islands,  &c.,  the  Jilossoni  returned 
to  (Mwuniso  Island  on  the  5th  of  July,  1827.  They 
found  the  flour  and  dispatches  they  had  left  the  ])re- 
vious  year  unmolested.  Lieut.  Belcher  was  dispatched 
in  the  barcje  to  explore  the  coast  to  the  northward,  and 
the  ship  followed  her  as  soon  as  the  wind  ])ermitted. 
On  the  0th  of  September,  when  standinii;  in  for  the 
northern  shore  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  the  ship  driflinj^ 
Avitli  the  current  took  the  pjround  on  a  sand-bank  near 
llotham  Inlet,  but  the  wind  nioderatintj,  as  the  tide 
rose  S'  e  went  oft*  the  shoal  a])parently  without  irijury. 

After  this  narrow  escape  troin  shipwreck  they  be.il; 
up  to  Chamiso  Island,  which  they  reached  on  the  loth 
of  Se])tembor.  Not  tindinii;  the  barge  returned  as  ex- 
pected, the  coast  was  scanned,  and  a  siijnal  of  distress 
found  flying  on  the  southwest  point  of  Choris  Pen- 
insula, and  two  men  waving  a  white  cloth  to  attract 
notice.  On  binding,  it  was  found  that  this  pai'ty  wei'e 
tlie  crew  of  the  barge,  which  had  been  wrecked  in  Kot- 
zebue Sound,  and  three  of  the  men  were  also  lost. 

On  the  29th  a  collision  took  place  with  the  natives, 
whi^ch  resulted  in  three  of  the  seamen  and  four  of  the 
marines  being  wounded  by  arrows,  and  one  of  the  na- 
tives killed  by  the  i-eturn  fire. 

After  leaving  advices  for  Franklin,  as  before,  the 
Blossom  finally  left  Chamiso  on  the  Gth  of  October. 
In  a  haze  and  strong  wind  she  ran  between  the  land 
and  a  shoal,  and  a  passage  had  to  be  forced  through 
breakers  at  the  imminent  danger  of  the  ship's  striking. 
The  Blossom  then  nuule  the  best  of  her  way  home, 
reaching  England  in  the  first  week  of  October,  1828. 


m, 
-m 


m 


''m 


!.     , 


144 


PROGRESS  OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERT. 


r: 


'I  1 


Parry's  Fourth,  or  Polar  Voyage,  1827. 

In  182C,  Capt.  Parrv,  wlio  li.id  only  returned  from 
\m  last  voyage  in  tlie  close  of  the  procedin*^  year,  was 
much  struck  by  the  suifgestioiis  ot  Mr.  Scoresby,  in  a 
paper  read  before  the  Wernerian  Society,  in  whicii  ho 
sketched  out  a  plan  for  reaching  the  highest  latitudes 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  north  of  S})itzbergen,  by  means  of 
sledge  boats  drawn  over  the  smooth  fields  of  ice  which 
were  known  to  prevail  in  those  regions.  C  d.  Peau- 
foy,  r.  11.  S.,  had  also  suggested  this  idea  some  years 
previously.  Comparing  these  with  a  similar  plan  orig- 
inally proposed  by  Captain  Franklin,  and  which  was 
placed  in  his  hands  by  Mr.  Barrow,  the  Secretary  of 
the  Admiralty,  Capt.  I'arry  laid  his  modified  views  of 
the  feasib'^ity  of  the  project,  and  his  willingness  to  un- 
dertake it,  before  Lord  Melville,  the  First  Lord  of  the 
Admiralty,  who,  after  consulting  with  the  President 
and  Council  of  the  Poyal  Society,  was  pleased  to  sanc- 
tion the  attempt;  accordingly,  his  old  ship,  the  Ilecla, 
was  fitted  out  for  the  voyage  to  Spitzbergen,  the  fol- 
lowing officers,  (all  of  whom  had  been  with  Parry  be- 
fore,) and  crew  being  appointed  to  her :  — 

ffecla. 

Captain — W.  E.  Parry. 

Lieutenants  —  J.  C.  Ross,  Henry  Foster,  E.  J.  Bird, 

F.  R.  M.  Crozier. 
Purser  —  James  liaise. 
Surgeon  —  C.  J.  Beverley. 

On  the  4th  of  April,  1827,  the  outfit  and  prepara- 
tions being  completed,  the  Ilecla  left  the  Nore  for  the 
coast  of  Norway,  touching  at  ITammerfest,  to  embark 
eight  reindeer,  and  some  moss  (Cetiomf/ce  ranf/ifcrJha) 
sufficient  for  their  support,  the  consumption  being 
about  4  lbs.  per  day,  but  they  can  go  with(.)ut  food  for 
several  days.  A  tremendous  gale  of  wind,  experienced 
off  Ilakluyt's  Headland,  and  tlie  cinantity  of  ice  with 
which  the  ship  was  in  coiise(|nenco  beset,  detained  the 
voyagers  for  nearly  a  month,  but  on  the  18th  of  June, 


'.  * 


Ill 


parry's  fourth  \oyage. 


145 


a  southorly  wind  disperslnj]^  tlie  ice,  they  dropped 
anchor  in  ti  cove,  on  the  northern  const  of  Spitzber<j;en, 
which  appeared  to  otter  a  secure  haven,  and  to  wlii'rli 
the  name  of  the  shij)  was  given.  On  the  20th,  tL^ 
boats,  wliich  had  been  e8})ecially  prepared  in  Enghmd 
for  this  kind  of  journey,  were  got  out  and  made  ready, 
and  they  left  the  ship  on  the  22d  of  June.  A  descrip- 
tion of  these  boats  may  not  liere  be  out  of  i)lace. 

They  were  twenty  feet  kmg  and  seven  broad,  flat 
floored,  like  ferry  boats,  strengthened  and  made  elas- 
tic by  sheets  of  felt  between  the  planking,  covered 
with  water-proof  canvass.  A  runner  attached  to  each 
side  of  the  keel,  adapted  them  for  easy  draught  on  the 
ice  after  the  manner  of  a  sledge.  They  were  also  fit- 
ted with  wheels,  to  be  used  if  deemed  expedient  and 
viseful.  Two  officers  and  twelve  men  were  attached 
to  each  boat,  and  they  were  named  the  Enterprise  and 
Endeavor.  The  weight  of  each  boat,  including  pro- 
visions and  every  requisite,  was  about  3780  lbs.  Lieuts. 
Crozier  and  Foster  were  left  on  board,  and  Capt.  Parry 
took  with  him  in  his  boat  Mr.  Beverley,  Surgeon,  wiiile 
Lieut,  (now  Capt.  Sir  James)  Ross,  and  Lieut,  (now 
Commander)  Bird,  had  charge  of  the  other. 

The  reindeer  and  the  wheels  were  given  up  as  use- 
less, owing  to  the  rough  nature  of  the  ice.  Provisions 
for  seventy-one  days  were  taken  —  the  daily  allowance 
per  man  on  the  journey  being  10  ozs.  biscuit,  9  ozs. 
pemmican,  1  oz.  sweetened  cocoa  powder  (being 
enough  to  make  a  pint,)  and  one  gill  of  rum ;  but 
scanty  provision  in  such  a  climate,  for  men  employed 
on  severe  labor ;  three  ounces  of  tobacco  were  also 
Berved  out  to  each  per  week. 

As  fuel  was  too  bulky  to  transport,  spirits  of  wine 
were  consumed,  which  answered  all  the  purposes  re- 
quired, a  pint  twice  a  day  being  found  sufticient  to 
warm  each  vessel,  when  applied  to  an  iron  boiler  by  a 
shallow  lamp  with  seven  wicks.  After  floating  the 
boats  for  about  eighty  miles,  they  came  to  an  unpleas- 
ant mixed  surface  of  ice  and  water,  where  their  toilsome 
journey  commenced,  the  boats  iiaving  to  be  laden  and 


15% 

m 

im 

1 

'.%3 

■1 

1 

.;    J    1 

'\4 

1 

J 

m 


m 


n 


il(( 


rKOOK'KHH  (UC  AlUVrUl    1>IS(50VI'JUV. 


unlinlon  Hovorul  liincw  ucconliiij^;  as  thoy  oiiiuo  to  floos 
(if  it'o  or  luiioH  ol'  Nvjitcr,  and  llu\v  wviVii  i\r'\\'{v{\  lo  tlio 
Houthwunl  Wy  llio  ico  at  tlio  ralt<  ort'oiir  or  livi'  niilcHa 
day.  I'arry  I'onml  it  inoro  ailvanta^coiis  to  tra\t'I  l>y 
iiii;lit,  tlio  Hiiow  Ikmm^  then  liardor,  and  tlio  iiicoiivcii- 
ioiu'O  ot'HUow  hliiidiiosH  lunii^  avoided,  wliilo  tlio  party 
onj*>yod  jjjroator  warmth  dnriii«»'  tho  period  of  rest,  and 
had  hettor  oppurtuidtios  of  drying  their  ehdhes  h)  thtj 
Him. 

1  oaimot  do  hotter  than  (piote  VarryV  o-raphic  de- 
scription (d'this  novtd  eonrne  of  j>roeiH'din«;' :  '^'I'ravel- 


in^  l>y  ni«;ht,  and  sK^epinj;'  by  day,  so  eoniplettdy  in- 
verted tlie  nalnral  order  (»!'  tliini^s  that  it  was  diilicnlt 
to  persnade  onrselvos  ot'the  reality.  Kven  the  ollieers 
and  invsell*,  wiio  were  all  t'nrnished  witii  poeket  chro- 
nometers, eonld  n(»t  always  hear  in  niinti  at  what  part 
of  the  twentvdionrs  we  ha«l  arrived;  and  there  wen^ 
several  id' the  men  who  deelared,  and  I  believe  trnly, 
that  thev  never  knew  n\}A\t  troni  tiay  durinfi;  tho  whole 
exenrsion. 

"  When  \vc  rose  in  the  ovenini?,  wo  eonnnoneod  onr 
day  by  ]»rayt*rs,  alitor  wiiieii  we  took  (dl"  «>ur  t'nr  slet'p- 
inii' dresses  and  pnt  on  elothes  tor  travel ino-;  the  Ibrmer 
bein«»"  made  ori'andi>t  UjumI  with  raccoon  skin,  and  the 
latter  <>t'  stronu'  blno  cloth.     Wi'  made  u  point  ol*  al- 


itovl 


<ini's    amt 


hooiK   lor 


ways  pnttinii"  on  tho  sanu 
traveling"  in,  whether  thev  luui  been  dried  dnrinuj  tho 
day  ov  not,  and  I  bidio'  o  it  was  otdy  in  tivo  or  six  in- 
stances at  tho  nu>st  that  they  were  not  either  still  wet 
or  hard  tVo/en.  'Ibis  indiH'd  was  of  no  consecincnco, 
beyond  the  discomtbrt  of  lirst  pnttinj^-  them  on  in  this 
state,  as  they  were  snro  to  be  thoroni;hly  wet  in  a 
qnartor  o\'  an  lunr  atUM*  eonnnencini;'  onr  jonrney  ; 
while,  on  tho  otiier  hand,  it  w-as  of  vital  im}>ortance 
to  keo]>  dry  things  tor  sloopin«x  in.  l>ein«x  '  riirp'd  ' 
for  truvolinii',  wo  breakfasted  upon  warm  cocoa  and 
bisc\ut,  and  at'ter  stowinj::  the  thinus  in  tho  boats,  and 
on  tho  slediios,  so  as  to  secure  tliem  ns  luuch  as  jtos- 
sible  fr«>m  wot,  we  sot  (>tV  on  onr  day's  jiinrnov,  and 
usually  traveled  four,  five,  or  oven  six  hours,  accord- 
ing' to  ciri'iiinstances." 


J'AK'KV  H    KoriKTH    V<)VA({K. 


147 


III  livo  (liiyH,  iioiwitliHljuulinj^  their  perBeveranco 
uimI  coiilimuMl  jounicyri,  tliuy  luuud,  l>y  observation  at 
noon,  on  tlic  .'5oi,li,  that  they  ii:id  only  made  eigh'u  miles 
of  <lin'(;t  northing. 

At  VVahlen  iHlaiid,  one  of  the  Seven  Inlanda,  and 
Little  'i'alde  Inland,  reHorve  supplies  of  jn'ovisions  were 
deposited  to  fall  hack  upon  in  ease  of  niieosHity. 

In  li:dtin<jj  ejirly  in  the  niornin*:^  for  the  pur]>oseH  of 
rest.,  tli(!  boats  were  hauled  u|>  on  tlu^  hir<jj(^Ht  pieee  of 
ice  that  ol]'ere<l  this  least  chance  of  breaking  through, 
or  of  coming  in  contact  with  other  maHses,  the  snow  or 
wet  was  eleaniHl  out  ami  the  sails  rigged  as  awnings. 
'^  Mvery  man  then  immediately  put  on  dry  stockings 
and  fur  boots,  after  which  we  set  about  tlus  necessary 
repairs  of  boats,  nledges,  or  clothes,  and  after  serving 
the  provisions  for  the  succeeding  day,  we  went  to  buj)- 
|»er.  Most  of  the  c>nieer.s  and  men  then  smoked  their 
j)ipes,  which  served  to  dry  the  boats  and  awnings  very 
much,  and  usually  raised  the  temju^rature  of  our  lodg- 
ings 10'^  or  15".  This  part  of  the  tw(!nty-four  hours 
was  often  a  time,  and  the  oidy  one,  of  real  enjoyment 
to  us  ;  the  nu^n  told  their  stories,  and  fought  all  their 
battles  oVr  again,  and  the  labors  of  the  day,  unsuccess- 
ful as  they  too  ofttMi  were,  were  forgottc^n.  A  regular 
watch  was  set  during  our  resting  tinu^,  to  look  out  for 
bears,  or  for  the  ico  breaking  up  round  us,  as  well  as 
to  attend  to  the  drying  of  tlus  clothes,  each  num  alter- 
luitely  taking  this  duty  for  one  hour.  We  then  con- 
cluded our  day  with  prayers,  and  having  put  on  our 
lur  dresses,  lay  down  ti>  sleej)  with  a  degree  of  comfort 
wiiich  perhaj)s  few  ]>er8ons  would  imagine  ])ossible  un- 
der such  circumstances,  our  chief  inconvenience  being, 
that  we  were  stunewhat  pinched  for  room,  and  there- 
ion^  obliged  to  Btow  rather  closer  than  was  <piite  agree- 
able." 

This  close  stowago  may  be  imagined  when  it  is  re- 
uKMubered  that  thirteen  persons  bad  to  sleep  in  a  boat 
seven  feet  broad.  AtVer  sleei)ing  about  seven  hours, 
they  were  roused  from  their  slumbers  by  the  sound  of 
a  bugle  from  the  cook  and  watclnnau,  which  announced 


m 


M 


w^ 


u, 


.11 


';'$'!' 


'i    i  . 

1   h 


!        ) 


I 

"ill 


l! 


148 


PKOGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


that  their  cocoa  was  smoking  hot,  and  invited  them  to 
breakfast. 

Their  progress  was  of  the  most  tedious  and  toilsome 
character,  heavy  showers  of  rain  rendering  the  ice  on 
many  occasions  a  mass  of  "  slush  ;"  on  others  there  was 
from  six  to  eighteen  inches  of  snow  lying  on  the  sur- 
face. Frequently  the  crew  had  to  proceed  on  their 
hands  and  knees  to  secure  a  footing,  and  on  one  occa- 
sion they  made  such  a  snail-like  progress  that  in  two 
hours  they  only  accomplished  150  yards.  On  the  12th 
of  July,  they  had  reached  the  latitude  of  82°  14'  28". 
After  tive  hours'  unceasing  labor  on  the  14th,  the  pro- 
gress was  but  a  mile  and  a  half  due  north,  though 
from  three  to  four  miles  had  been  traversed,  and  ten  at 
least  walked,  having  made  three  journeys  a  great  part 
of  the  way  ;  launched  and  hauled  up  the  boats  four 
times,  and  dragged  them  over  twenty-five  separate 
pieces  of  ice.  On  the  18th,  after  eleven  hours  of  ac- 
tual labor,  requiring  for  the  most  part  the  exertion  of 
the  whole  strength  of  the  party,  they  had  traveled  over 
a  space  not  exceeding  four  miles,  of  which  only  two 
were  made  good. 

But  on  halting  on  the  morning  of  the  20th,  having 
by  his  reckoning  accomplished  six  and  a  half  miles  in 
a  N.  N.  W.  direction,  the  distance  traversed  being  ten 
miles  and  a  half.  Parry  found  to  his  mortification  from 
observation  at  noon,  that  they  were  not  Jive  miles  to 
the  noi'thward  of  their  place  at  noon  on  the  17th, 
although  they  had  certainly  traveled  twelve  miles  in 
tliat  direction  since  then. 

On  the  2l8t,  a  floe  of  ice  on  which  they  had  lodged 
the  boats  and  sledges,  broke  with  their  weight,  and  all 
went  through  with  several  of  the  crew,  who,  with  the 
sledges  were  providentially  saved. 

On  tlie  23d,  the  farthest  northerlv  point  was  reached, 


which  was  about  82°  45' 


At  noon  on  the  26th,  the  weather  beinof  clear,  the 


» 


meridian  altitude  of  the  sun  was  obtained, '"  ])v  which, 
savs  Parrv, "  we  found  ourselves  in  latitude  82°  40'  28", 
go  that  since  our  last  obsei-vation  (at  midnight  on  tlie 


rAKKY  8    FOURTH   VOYAGE. 


149 


pdged 
Ind  nil 
th  the 

iched, 

ir,  the 
lliich," 
Y  28", 
1)11  the 


\  2d,)  we  had  lost  by  drift  no  less  than  thirteen  and  a 
half  miles,  for  we  were  now  more  than  three  miles  to  tlie 
southward  of  that  observation,  though  we  had  certainly 
traveled  between  ten  and  eleven,  due  north  in  this 
interval !  Again,  we  were  but  one  mile  to  the  north 
o/  our  place  at  noon  on  the  21st,  though  we  had  esti- 
lyiated  our  distance  made  good  at  twenty-three  miles." 
After  encountering  every  species  of  fatigue  and  dis- 
b«^artening  obstacles,  in  peril  of  their  lives  almost  every 
hvuir,  Parry  now  became  convinced  that  it  was  hope- 
In^s  to  pursue  tlie  journey  any  furtlier,  and  he  could 
H'jt  even  reach  the  eighty-third  parallel ;  for  after  thir- 
ti-five  days  of  continuous  and  most  fatiguing  drudgery, 
w»th  half  their  resources  expended,  and  the  middle  of 
tli.  season  arrived,  he  found  that  the  distance  gained 
ir»  i'  ir  laborious  traveling  was  lost  by  the  drift  and 
se  <><'  the  ice  with  the  southerly  current,  during  tlie 
pji'-riod  of  rest.  After  planting  their  ensigns  and  pen- 
nj  uts  on  the  26th,  and  making  it  a  day  of  rest,  on  the 
^''i  th,  the  return  to  the  southward  was  commenced. 
Nv 'thing  particular  occurred.  Lieutenant  Iloss  man- 
ag  }d  to  bring  down  with  his  gun  a  fat  she  bear,  which 
ca.  ne  to  have  a  look  at  the  boats,  and  after  gormandiz- 
ini>  on  its  flesh,  an  excess  which  may  be  excused  consid- 
eri  \g  it  was  the  first  fresh  meat  they  had  tasted  for 
ma  ly  a  day,  some  symptoms  of  indigestion  manifested 
the  nselves  among  the  party. 

{ 'n  the  outward  journey  very  little  of  animal  life 
wm  seen.  A  passing  gull,  a  solitary  rotge,  two  seals, 
and  a  couple  of  flies,  were  all  that  their  eager  eyes 
cou,  i  detect.  But  on  their  return,  these  became  more 
nun  erous.  On  the  8th  of  August,  seven  or  eight  nar- 
wha  8  were  seen,  and  not  less  than  200  rotges,  a  flock 
of  t\  ese  little  birds  occurring  in  every  hole  of  water. 
On  \  he  11th,  in  latitude  81°  30',  the  sea  was  found 
crow  led  with  shrimps  and  other  sea  insects,  on  which 
numerous  birds  were  feeding.  On  this  day  they  took 
their  last  meal  on  the  ice,  being  fifty  miles  distant  from 
Table  Island,  having  accomplished  in  fifteen  days  what 
hud  taken  them  thirtv-three  to  effect  on  their  outward 

7    *' 


150 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


i 


journey.  On  tlie  12th,  they  arrived  at  this  island.  The 
bears  had  walked  off  with  the  relay  of  bread  which 
had  been  deposited  there.  To  an  inlet  lyin*^  off  Table 
Island,  and  the  most  northern  known  land  upon  the 
globe,  Parry  gave  the  name  of  Ross,  for  "  no  individ- 
ual," he  observes,  "  could  have  exerted  himself  more 
strenuously  to  rob  it  "of  this  distinction." 

Putting  to  sea  again,  a  storm  obliged  the  boats  to 
bear  up  for  Walden  Island.  "  Every  thing  belonging  to 
us  (says  Captain  Parry)  was  now  completely  drenched 
by  the  spray  and  snow  ;  we  had  been  fifty-six  hours 
without  rest,  and  forty-eight  at  work  in  the  boats,  so 
that  by^  the  time  they  were  unloaded  we  had  barely 
strength  left  to  haul  them  up  on  the  rocks.  However, 
by  dint  of  great  exertion,  we  managed  to  get  the  boats 
above  the  surf  ;  after  which  a  hot  supper,  a  blazing 
fire  of  drift  wood,  and  a  few  hours  quiet  rest,  restored 


» 


us. 

They  finally  reached  the  ship  on  the  21st  of  August, 
after  sixty-one  days'  absence. 

"The  distance  traversed  during  this  excursion  was 
569  geographical  miles  ;  but  allowing  for  the  times  we 
had  to  return  for  our  baggage,  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  journey  over  the  ice,  we  estimated  our  actual 
traveling  at  978  geographical,  or  1127  statute  miles. 
Considering  our  constant  exposure  to  wet,  cold,  and 
fatigue,  our  stockings  having  generally  been  drenched 
in  snow-water  for  twelve  hours  out  of  every  twenty- 
four,  I  had  great  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  excellent 
health  in  which,  upon  the  whole,  we  reached  the  ship. 
There  is  little  doubt  that  we  had  all  become  in  a  certain 
'iegree  gradually  weaker  for  some  time  past ;  but  only 
three  men  of  our  party  now  required  medical  care  — 
two  of  them  with  badly  swelled  legs  and  general  de 
bility,  and  the  other  from  a  bruise,  but  even  these  three 
returned  to  their  duty  in  a  short  time." 

In  a  letter  from  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  to  Sir  John  Barrow, 
dated  November  25,  1845,  he  thus  suggests  some  im- 
provements on  his  old  plan  of  proceeilings  : — 

"It  is  evident  (lie  says)  that  the  causes  of  failure  in 


parry's  fourth  voyage. 


151 


ml.  The 
,d  which 
)&  Table 
Lipon  the 
)  individ- 
;elt'  more 

5  boats  to 
.oiiging  to 
drenched 
-six.  hours 
!  boats,  so 
ad  barely 
However, 
b  the  boats 
a  blazing 
it,  restored 

Df  August, 

'ursion  was 
e  times  we 
reater  part 
our  actual 
tute  miles, 
cold,  and 
a  drenched 
ry  twenty- 
le  excellent 
id  the  ship, 
"n  a  certain 
;  but  only 
cal  care  — 
•eneral  de 
"Ithese  three 

Im  Earrow, 
some  im- 

fiiilure  in 


our  former  attempt,  in  the  year  1827,  were  principally 
two  :  first,  and  chiefly,  the  broken,  rugged,  and  soft 
state  of  the  ice  over  which  we  traveled  ;  and  secondly, 
the  drifting  of  the  whole  body  of  ice  in  a  southerly 
direction. 

"  My  amended  plan  is,  to  go  out  with  a  single  ship 
to  Spitzbergen,  just  as  we  did  in  the  Ilecla,  but  not  so 
early  in  the  season ;  the  object  for  that  year  being 
merely  to  find  secure  winter  quarters  as  far  north  as 
possible.  For  this  purpose  it  would  only  be  necessary 
to  reach  Hakluyt's  Headland  by  the  end  of  June, 
which  would  afford  ample  leisure  for  examining  the 
more  northern  lands,  especially  about  the  Seven  Islands, 
where,  in  all  probability,  a  secure  nook  might  be  found 
for  the  ship,  and  a  starting  point  for  the  proposed  ex- 
pedition, some  forty  or  fifty  miles  in  advance  of  the 
point  where  the  Ilecla  was  before  laid  up.  The  winter 
might  be  usefully  employed  in  various  preparations  for 
the  journey,  as  well  as  in  magnetic,  astronomical,  and 
meteorological  observations,  of  high  interest  in  that 
latitude.  1  propose  that  the  expedition  should  leave 
the  ship  in  the  course  of  the  month  of  April,  when  the 
ice  would  present  one  hard  and  unbroken  surface,  over 
which,  as  I  confidently  believe,  it  would  not  be  difiicult 
to  make  good  thirty  miles  per  day,  without  any  expo- 
sure to  wet,  and  probably  without  snow  blindness.  At 
this  season,  too,  the  ice  would  probably  be  stationary, 
and  thus  the  two  great  dilficulties  which  we  formerly 
had  to  encounter  would  be  entirely  obviated.  It  might 
form  a  part  of  the  plan  to  push  out  supplies  previously, 
to  the  distance  of  100  miles,  to  be  taken  up  on  the 
way,  so  as  to  commence  the  journey  comparatively 
light ;  and  as  the  intention  would  be  to  complete  the 
enterprise  in  the  course  of  the  month  of  May,  before 
any  disruption  of  the  ice,  or  any  material  softening  of 
the  surface  had  taken  place,  similar  supplies  might  be 
sent  out  to  the  same  distance,  to  meet  the  party  on 
their  return." 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  in  his  last  work,  com- 
menting on  this,  says,  "  With  all  deference  to  so  dis- 


^1 


152 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


!lii 


tingnished  a  sea  officer,  in  possession  of  so  mnch  expe- 
rience as  Sir  Edward  Parry,  there  are  others  who 
express  dislike  of  such  a  plan  ;  and  it  is  not  improba- 
ble that  many  will  be  disposed  to  come  to  tlie  conclu- 
sion, that  80  long  as  the  Greenland  Seas  are  hampered 
with  ice,  so  long  as  floes,  and  hnmmocks,  and  heavy 
masses,  continue  to  be  formed,  so  long  as  a  determined 
southerly  current  prevails,  so  long  will  any  attempt  to 
carry  out  the  plan  in  question,  in  like  manner  fail.  No 
laborious  drudgery  will  ever  be  able  to  conquer  the 
opposing  progress  of  the  current  and  the  ice.  Besides, 
it  can  hardly  be  doubted,  this  gallant  officer  will  admit, 
on  further  consideration,  that  this  unusual  kind  of  dis- 
gusting and  un seamanlike  labor,  is  not  precisely  such 
as  would  be  relished  by  the  men  ;  and,  it  may  be  said, 
is  not  exactly  fitted  for  a  British  man-ot-war's-nian  ; 
moreover,  that  it  required  his  own  all-powerful  example 
to  make  it  even  toleral)le."  Sir  John  therefore  sug- 
gested a  somewhat  dift'erent  plan.  He  recommended 
tiiat  two  small  ships  should  be  sent  in  the  early  spring 
along  the  western  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  where  usually 
no  impediment  exists,  as  far  up  as  80°.  They  should 
take  every  o])portunity  of  proceeding  directly  to  the 
north,  where,  in  about  82°,  Parry  has  told  us  the  large 
floes  had  disappeared,  and  the  sea  w,".3  found  to  be 
loaded  only  with  loose,  disconnected,  small  masses  of 
ice,  through  which  sliips  would  find  no  difficulty  irx 
sailing,  though  totally  unfit  for  boats  dragging;  and  as 
this  loose  ice  was  drifting  to  the  southward,  he  further 
says,  that  before  the  middle  of  August  a  ship  might 
iiave  sailed  up  to  the  latitude  of  82°,  almost  without 
touching  a  piece  of  ice.  It  is  not  then  unreasonable  to 
expect  that  beyond  that  parallel,  even  as  far  as  the 
pole  itself,  the  sea  would  be  free  of  ice,  during  the  six 
summer  months  of  perpetual  sun,  througli  each  of  the 
twenty-four  hours  ;  wliich,  with  the  aid  of  the  current, 
would,  in  all  probability,  destroy  and  dissipate  the 
polar  ice. 

The  distance  from  TTakhiyt's  Headland  to  the  pole 
is  600  geographical  miles.     Granting  the  ships  to  make 


PARKY  S   FOURTH   VOYAGE. 


153 


large 


e  pole 
make 


only  twenty  miles  in  twenty-four  hours,  (on  the  suppo- 
sition of  much  sailing  ice  to  go  throng!),)  even  in  that 
case  it  would  require  but  a  month  to  enable  the  ex- 
plorer to  put  liis  foot  on  the  pivot  or  point  of  the  axis 
on  which  the  globe  of  the  earth  turns,  renuiin  tliere  a 
month,  if  necessar"  'o  obtain  the  sough t-for  informa- 
tion, and  tL'  ,  "svx.  i,  southerly  cur  .  ;.;  a  fortnight, 
probably  less,  vvould  uring  him  back  to  opitzbergen,  "•* 

In  a  notice  in  the  Quarterly  Review  of  this,  one  of 
the  most  singular  and  perilous  journeys  of  its  kind 
ever  undertaken,  except  perhaps  that  of  Baron  Wran- 
gell  upon  a  similar  enterprise  to  tlie  northward  of  ]jehr- 
ing's  Straits,  it  is  observed,  —  '•'Let  any  one  conceive 
for  a  moment  the  situation  of  two  oj^en  boats,  laden 
with  seventy  days'  provisions  and  clothing  for  twenty- 
eight  men,  in  the  midst  of  a  sea  covered  nearly  witli 
detached  masses  and  floes  of  ice,  over  whicli  these 
boats  were  to  be  dragged,  sometimes  up  one  side  of  a 
rugged  mass,  and  down  the  otlier,  sometimes  across  the 
lanes  of  water  that  separate  them,  frequently  over  a 
surface  covered  with  deep  snow,  or  througli  pools  of 
water.  Let  him  bear  in  mind,  that  the  men  had  little 
or  no  chance  of  any  otlier  sujiply  of  ])rovisions  than 
that  which  they  carried  witli  them,  calculated  as  just 
sulHcient  to  sustain  life,  and  consider  what  their  situa- 
tion would  have  been  in  the  event,  bv  no  means  an 
improbable  one,  of  losing  any  part  of  their  scanty 
stock.  Let  any  one  try  to  imagine  to  himself  a  situa- 
tion of  this  kind,  and  he  will  still  have  but  a  faint  idea 
of  the  exertions  which  the  men  under  Captain  Parry 
had  to  make,  and  the  sufl:erings  and  privations  they 
had  to  undergo." 

Ca]:»tain  Parr^  having  thus  completed  his  fifth  voy- 
age into  the  arctic  regions,  in  four  of  which  he  com- 
manded, and  was  second  in  the  other,  it  may  here  be 
desirable  to  give  a  reca])itulati(m  of  his  services. 

In  1818  he  was  appointed  Lieutenant,  commanding 
the  Alexander,  hired  shi]),  as  second  officer  with  his 
uncle,  Commander  John  Ross.     In  1819,  still  as  Lieu- 

*  B.'UTow's  Voyages  of  Discovery,  p,  316. 


154 


PEOGKESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


';v       I 


M 


tenant,  he  was  appointed  to  command  the  Ilechi,  and 
to  take  charge  ot-  the  second  arctic  expedition,  on  which 
service  he  was  employed  two  years.  On  the  14th  of 
November,  1820,  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
Commander. 

On  the  19th  of  December,  1820,  the  Bedfordcan 
Gold  Medal  of  the  Bath  and  West  of  England  Society 
for  the  Enconragement  of  Arts,  Manufactures,  ancl 
Commerce,  was  unanimously  voted  to  him.  On  the 
30th  of  December  of  that  year,  he  was  appointed  to 
the  Fury,  with  orders  to  take  command  of  the  expedi- 
tion to  the  Arctic  Sea.  With  the  sum  of  500  guineas, 
subscribed  for  the  purpose,  "  the  Explorer  of  the  Polar 
Sea  "  was  afterward  presented  with  a  silver  vase, 
highly  embellished  with  devices  emblematic  of  the 
arctic  voyages.  And  on  the  24th  of  March,  1821,  the 
city  of  Bath  presented  its  freedom  to  Captain  Parry,  in 
a  box  of  oak,  highly  and  appropriately  ornamented. 
On  the  8th  of  November,  1821,  he  obtained  his  post- 
captain's  rank.  On  the  22d  of  November,  1823,  he 
was  presented  with  the  freedom  of  the  city  of  Win- 
chester ;  and,  on  the  1st  of  December,  was  appointed 
acting  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty  in  the  place  of 
Captain  Hind,  deceased.  In  1824  he  was  appointed  to 
the  Ilecla,  to  proceed  on  another  exploring  voyage. 

On  the  22d  of  November,  1825,  Captain  Parry  was 
formally  appointed  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty, 
which  office  he  continued  to  hold  until  the  10th  of 
November,  1826. 

In  December,  1825,  he  was  voted  the  freedom  of  the 
borough  of  Lynn,  in  testimony  of  the  high  sense  enter- 
tained by  the  corporation  of  his  meritorious  and  enter 
prising  conduct. 

In  April,  1827,  he  once  more  took  tlie  command  of 
his  old  ship,  the  Ilecla,  for  another  voyage  of  discovery 
toward  the  North  Pole.  On  his  return  in  the  close  of 
the  year,  having  paid  off  the  Ilecla  at  Deptford,  he 
resumed,  on  the  2d  of  Noveml)er,  his  duties  as  hydro- 
grapher to  the  Admiraltv,  which  office  he  held  until 
the  13th  of  May,  1829.    Having  received  the  K'«ior  of 


1 


■k 


a,  and 
which 
tth  of 
mk  of 

3rdean 
jociety 
8,  and 
Dn  the 
ited  to 
3xped:- 
uineas, 
i  Polar 
:  vase, 
of  the 
;21,  the 
arry,  in 
nented. 
is  post- 
523,  he 
if  Win- 
3ointed 
ace  of 
nted  to 
nge. 
ry  was 
niralty, 
0th  of 

of  the 
enter- 
enter 

land  of 

jcoverji 

llose  of 

)rd,  li« 

[hydro- 

iintil 

lor  of 


CAl'TAIN    I40SS  8   SECOND   VOYAGE. 


155 


knighthood,  he  then  resigned  in  favor  of  the  present 
Admiral  Beaufort,  and,  obtaining  permission  from  the 
Admiralty,  proceeded  to  New  South  Wales  as  resident 
Connnissioner  to  the  Australian  Agricultural  Com- 
pany, taking  charge  of  their  recently  acquired  large 
territory  in  the  neighborhood  of  Port  Stephen.  He 
returned  from  Australia  in  1834.  From  the  7th  of 
March,  1835,  to  the  3d  of  February,  1836,  he  acted  as 
Poor  Law  Commissioner  in  Norfolk.  Early  in  1837, 
he  was  appointed  to  organize  the  Mail  Packet  Service, 
then  transferred  to  the  Admiralty,  and  afterward,  in 
April,  was  appointed  Controller  of  steam  machinery  to 
the  Navy,  which  office  he  continued  to  hold  up  to  De- 
cember, 1846.  From  that  period  to  the  present  time 
he  has  filled  the  post  of  Captain  Superintendent  of  the 
Royal  Navy  Hospital  at  Haslar. 

Captain  John  Ross's  Second  Yotage,  1829-33. 

In  the  year  1829,  Capt.  Ross,  the  pioneer  of  arctic 
exploration  in  the  19th  century,  being  anxiou.  once 
more  to  display  his  zeal  and  enterprise  as  wei:  as  to 
retrieve  his  nautical  reputation  from  those  unfortunate 
blunders  and  mistakes  which  had  attached  to  his  first 
voyage,  and  thus  remove  the  cloud  which  had  for 
nearly  ten  years  hung  over  his  professional  character, 
endeavored  without  effect  to  induce  the  government 
to  send  him  out  to  the  Polar  Seas  in  charge  of  another 
expedition.  The  Board  of  Admiralty  of  that  day,  in 
the  spirit  of  retrenchment  which  pervaded  their  coun- 
cils, were,  however,  not  disposed  to  recommend  any 
further  grant  for  research,  even  the  Board  of  Longi- 
tude was  abolished,  and  the  boon  of  20,000Z.  offered 
by  act  of  parliament  for  the  promotion  of  arctic  dis- 
covery, also  withdrawn  by  a  repeal  of  the  act. 

Captain  Ross,  however,  undaunted  by  the  chilling 
indifference  thus  manifested  toward  his  proposals  by 
the  Admiralty,  still  persevered,  having  devoted  3000^. 
out  of  his  own  funds  toward  the  prosecution  of  the  ob- 
ject he  had  in  view.    He  was  fortunate  enough  to 


150 


I'KUGliKsiS    OF    Allelic    I)IdCUVi:UY. 


a : ! 


! 


meet  witli  a  |)ul)lic-si)irito(l  and  afHuent  coadjiitoi  And 
Buiipoi'ter  in  the  late  Sir  Felix  Booth,  the  eniinen  dis- 
tiller, and  that  gentleman  nobly  contributed  17..J00/. 
toward  the  expenses.  Ca])tain  Ross  thereupon  set  to 
work,  and  purchased  a  small  Liverpool  steamer  named 
the  Victory,  whose  tonnage  ho  increased  to  150  tons. 
She  was  provisioned  for  three  years.  Captain  Koss 
chose  for  his  second  in  command  his  nephew.  Com- 
mander James  Koss,  who  had  been  with  him  on  his 
first  arctic  expedition,  and  had  subsequently  accompa- 
nied Parry  in  all  his  voyages.  The  other  ofhcers  of  the 
vessel  were  —  Mr.  William  Thom,  jmrser  ;  Mr.  Georg(3 
M'Diarmid,  surgeon  ;  Thomas  Blanky,Thos.  Abernethy, 
and  George  Taylor,  as  1st,  2d,  and  3d,  mates  ;  Alex- 
ander Brunton  and  Allen  Macinnes  as  1st  and  2d  engi- 
neers ;  and  nineteen  petty  oiticers  and  seamen  ;  making 
a  complement  in  all  of  28  men. 

The  Admiralty  furnished  toward  the  purposes  of  the 
expedition  a  decked  boat  of  sixteen  tons,  called  the 
Krusenstern,  and  two  boats  which  had  been  used  by 
Franklin,  with  a  stock  of  books  and  instruments. 

The  vessel  being  reported  ready  for  sea  was  visited 
and  examined  by  the  late  King  of  the  French,  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty,  and  other  parties  taking  an 
interest  in  the  expedition,  and  set  sail  from  "Woolwich 
on  the  23d  of  May,  1829.  For  all  practical  parposes 
the  steam  machinery,  on  which  the  commander  had 
greatly  relied,  was  found  on  trial  uttei'ly  useless. 

Having  received  much  damage  to  ner  spars,  in  a 
severe  gale,  the  ship  put  in  to  the  Danish  settlement  of 
Ilolsteinberg,  on  the  Greenland  coast,  to  relit,  and 
sailed  again  to  the  northward  on  the  2^)th  of  June. 
They  found  a  clear  sea,  and  even  in  the  middle  of  Lan- 
caster Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait  perceived  no  traces 
of  ice  or  snow,  except  what  sippeared  on  the  lofty  sum- 
mits of  some  of  the  mountains.  The  thermometer  stood 
at  40°,  and  the  weather  was  so  mild  that  the  officers 
dined  in  the  cabin  without  a  fire,  with  the  skylight 
partially  open.  On  the  10th  of  August  they  passed 
Cape  York,  and  thence  crossed  over  into  Eegent  Inl»  " 


,: 

r 


( 


OAIIAIN   KOBSB   bKCOJND   VOrAUE. 


157 


I  And 
)    ilis- 
„J00/. 
set  to 
lamed 
)  tons. 
Ilosa 
Coni- 
on  hia 
ompa- 
of  the 
3reorg(3 
•nethy, 
Alex- 
d  engi- 
tiaking 

>  of  tlie 
ed  tlio 
sed  Ly 

visited 
cli,  the 
ing  an 
(olwicli 
irposcs 
er  had 


i;,  m  a 
lent  of 
t,  and 

June, 
f  Lan- 

traces 
ly  sum- 
r  stood 

fficers 
cyliglit 
passed 

lnl#  • 


making  theTrcstern  coast  between  Sei->ping'8  and  Elwin 
Bay  on  the  16tli. 

They  here  fell  in  with  those  formidable  streams, 
packs,  and  floating  bergs  of  ice  which  had  ofiered  such 
obstructions  to  Parry's  ships.  From  their  proximity  to 
tlie  magnetic  pole,  their  compasses  became  useless  as 
they  proceeded  southward.  On  the  13th  they  reached 
the  spot  where  the  Fury  was  abandoned,  but  no  rem- 
nants of  the  vessel  were  to  be  seen.  Ail  her  sails, 
stores,  and  provisions,  on  land,  were,  however,  found  ; 
the  hermetically-sealed  tin  canisters  having  kept  the 
provisions  from  the  attacks  of  bears ;  and  the  flour, 
bread,  wine,  spirits,  sugar,  &c.,  proved  as  good,  after 
being  here  four  years,  as  on  the  first  day  they  were 
packed.  This  store  formed  a  very  seasonable  addition, 
which  was  freely  made  available,  and  after  increasing 
their  stock  to  two  years  and  ten  months'  supply,  they 
still  left  a  large  quantity  for  the  wants  of  any  future 
explorers.  On  the  15th,  crossing  Cresswell  Bay,  they 
reached  Cape  Garry,  the  farthest  point  which  had  been 
Been  by  Parry.  Tney  were  here  much  inconvenienced 
and  delayed  by  fogs  and  floating  ice.  While  moun- 
tains of  ice  were  tossing  around  them  on  every  side, 
they  were  often  forced  to  seek  safety  by  mooring  them- 
selves to  these  formidable  massei.,  and  driftin*  with 
them,  sometimes  forward,  sometimes  backward.  In  this 
manner  on  one  occasion  no  less  than  nineteen  miles 
were  lost  in  a  few  hours ;  at  other  times  they  under- 
went frequent  and  severe  shocks,  yet  escaped  any  seri- 
ous damage. 

Captain  Koss  draws  a  lively  picture  of  what  a  ves- 
sel endures  in  sailing  among  these  moving  hills.  He 
reminds  the  reader  that  ice  is  stone,  as  solid  as  if  it 
^ore  granite  ;  and  he  bids  him  "  imagine  these  moun- 
tains hurled  through  a  narrow  strait  by  a  rapid  tide, 
meeting  with  the  noise  of  thunder,  breaking  from  each 
other's  precipices  huge  fragments,  or  rending  each 
other  asunder,  till,  losing  their  former  equilibrium, 
they  fell  over  headlong,  lifting  the  sea  around  in  break- 
ers and  whii'lins:  it  in  eddies     There  is  not  a  moment 


1  .i 


Vm 


i; 


I 


158 


rRorfREss  OP  arctic  discovery. 


in  which  it  can  be  conjectured  what  will  happen  \u  t\* 
next ;  there  is  not  one  which  may  ii'^t.  be  the  last.  Tlip 
attention  is  troubled  to  fix  on  any  thin/jf  amid  such  con 
fusion  ;  still  must  it  be  alive,  that  it  may  seize  on  th** 
single  moment  of  help  or  escape  which  may  occur 
Yet  with  all  this,  and  it  is  the  hardest  task  of  all,  there 
is  nothing  to  bo  acted, —  no  effort  to  be  made, —  ho 
must  be  patient,  as  if  he  were  unconcerned  or  careless, 
waiting,  as  ho  best  can,  for  the  fate,  be  it  what  it  may, 
which  ne  cannot  influence  or  avoid." 

Proceeding  southward,  Ross  found  Brentford  Bay, 
about  thirty  miles  beyond  Cape  Garry,  to  be  of  consid- 
erable extent,  with  some  fine  harbors.  Landing  hero, 
the  British  colors  were  unfurled,  and  the  coast,  named 
after  the  promoter  of  the  expedition,  was  taken  posses- 
sion of  in  the  name  of  the  King.  Extensive  and  com- 
modious harbors,  named  Ports  Logan,  Elizabeth,  aud 
Eclipse,  were  discovered,  and  a  large  bay,  which  was 
called  Mc^ry  Jones  Bay.  By  the  end  of  September 
the  ship  had  examined  300  miles  of  undiscovered  coast 
The  winter  now  set  in  with  severity,  huge  masses  of 
ice  began  to  close  around  them,  the  thermometer  sanT< 
many  degrees  below  freezing  point,  and  snow  fell  very 
thick.  By  sawing  through  the  ice,  the  vessel  was  got 
into  a  secure  position  to  pass  the  winter,  in  a  station 
which  is  now  named  on  tlie  maps  Felix  Harbor.  Tho 
machinery  of  the  steam  engine  was  done  away  witli, 
the  vessel  housed,  and  every  measure  that  could  add  to 
the  comfort  of  the  crew  adopted.  They  had  abundance 
of  fuel,  and  provisions  that  might  easily  be  extended 
to  three  years. 

On  the  9th  of  January,  1831,  they  were  visited  by  a 
large  tribe  of  Esquimaux,  who  were  better  dressed  and 
cleaner  than  those  more  to  the  northward.  They  dis- 
played an  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  situation  and 
bearings  of  the  country  over  which  they  had  traveled, 
and  two  of  them  drew  a  very  fair  sketch  of  the  neigh- 
boring coasts,  w^ith  which  they  were  familiar  ;  this 
was  revised  and  corrected  by  a  learned  lady  named 
Teriksin, —  the  females  seeming,  from  this  and  former 


\u  tV 
.    ThA 

ill  coil 
itn  th(r 
occur 
I,  there 
e, —  ho 
iireless, 
it  nuiy, 

d  Bay, 
consid- 
g  here, 
named 
posses- 
ad  com- 
3th,  and 
ich  \va9 
)teml)cr 
id  coast 
isses  of 
ter  sanl? 
[ell  very 
was  ^oi 
station 
)r.    Tlio 
ay  with, 
1  add  to 
iindance 
xtended 

;ed  by  a 
5sed  and 
hey  dis- 
tion  and 
;raveled, 
c  neiffh- 
ir  ;  this 
named 
former 


I 


OAi'TAIN    KOSSS    8KC0ND    VOYAGE. 


150 


instances,  to  have  a  clear  knowledrjo  of  the  hydro<^rapliy 
aiul  ^eo^raphy  of  the  continent,  bays,  straits,  uud  riv- 
ers whicu  they  had  once  traversed. 

On  the  5th  of  April,  Conimandc''  Ross,  with  Mr. 
Blanky,  the  chief  mate,  and  two  Esquimaux  guides,  set 
out  to  explore  a  strait  which  was  reported  as  lying  to 
the  westward,  and  which  it  was  hoped  might  lead  to 
the  western  sea.  After  a  tedious  and  arduous  journey, 
tliey  arrived,  or.  the  third  day,  at  a  bay  facing  to  the 
westward  and  discovered,  further  inlanci,  an  exten  ive 
lake,  called  by  the  natives  Nie-tyle-le,  whence  a  broad 
river  flowed  into  the  bay.  Their  guides  informed  them, 
however,  there  was  no  prospect  of  a  water  com uiiica- 
tion  south  of  their  present  position.  Capt.  Ross  then 
traced  the  coast  fifty  or  sixty  miles  further  south. 

Several  journeys  were  also  made  by  Conr  .aiider 
Ross,  both  inland  and  along  the  bays  and  inle' s.  On 
the  1st  of  May,  from  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  he  observed 
a  large  inlet,  which  seemed  to  lead  to  the  western  sea. 
In  order  to  satisfy  liimself  on  this  point,  ho  set  out 
again  on  the  17th  of  May,  with  provisions  for  three 
weeks,  eight  dogs,  and  three  companions,  ilaving 
crossed  the  great  middle  lake  of  the  isthmus,  he  reached 
his  former  station,  and  thence  traced  an  inlet  which 
was  found  to  be  the  mouth  of  a  river  named  by  them 
Garry.  From  the  high  hill,  they  observed  a  chain  of 
hikes  leading  almost  to  Thom's  iBay,  the  Victory's  sta- 
tion in  Felix  Harbor.  Proceeding  nr.tt!a"^est  along  the 
coast,  they  crossed  the  frozen  surface  ox  the  strait  which 
has  since  been  named  after  Sir  James  Ross,  and  came 
to  a  large  island  which  was  callrd  Matty  ;  keeping 
along  its  northern  shore,  and  passing  over  a  narrow 
strait,  which  they  named  after  Wellington,  they  found 
themselves  on  what  was  considered  to  be  the  main- 
land, but  which  the  more  recent  discoveries  of  Simpson 
have  shown  to  be  an  island,  and  which  now  bears  the 
name  of  King  William's  Land.  Still  journeying  on- 
ward, with  difficulties  continually  increasing,  from 
heavy  toil  and  severe  privation,  the  dogs  became  ex- 
hausted with  fatigue,  and  a  burden  rather  than  an  aid 
to  die  travelers. 


hi 


I'''  '''i 


160 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


....  -  ;:i 


One  of  their  greatest  embaiTaesments  was,  how  to 
distinguish  between  land  and  sea.  "  When  all  is  ice, 
and  all  one  dazzling  mass  of  white  —  when  the  surface 
of  the  sea  itself  is  tossed  up  and  fixed  into  rocks,  while 
the  land  is,  on  the  contrary,  very  often  flat,  it  is  not 
always  so  easy  a  problem  as  it  might  seem  on  a  super- 
ficial view,  to  determine  a  fact  which  appears  in  words 
to  be  extremely  sim2)le."  Although  their  provisions 
began  to  fall  short,  and  the  party  were  nearly  worn 
out.  Commander  Iloss  was  most  desirous  of  making  as 
much  western  discovery  as  possible  ;  therefore,  depos- 
iting every  thing  that  could  be  dispensed  with,  he 
pushed  on,  on  the  28th,  with  only  four  days'  provisions, 
and  reached  Cape  Felix,  the  most  northern  point  of 
this  island,  on  the  following  day.  The  coast  here  took 
a  southwest  direction,  and  there  was  an  unbounded  ex- 
panse of  ocean  in  view.  The  next  morning,  after  hav- 
ing traveled  twenty  miles  tarther,  they  reached  a  point, 
which  Eoss  called  Point  Victory,  situated  in  lat.  64'' 
46'  19",  long.  98°  32'  49",  while  to  the  most  distant  one 
in  view,  estimated  to  be  in  long.  99°  17'  58",  he  gave 
the  name  of  Cape  Franklin.  However  loath  to  turn 
back,  yet  prudence  compelled  them  to  do  so,  for  as 
they  had  only  ten  days'  short  allowance  of  food,  and 
more  than  200  miles  to  traverse,  there  could  not  be  a 
moment's  liesitation  in  adopting  this  step.  A  high 
cairn  of  stones  was  erected  before  leaving,  in  which 
was  deposited  a  narrative  of  their  proceedings. 

The  party  endured  much  fatigue  and  suffering  on 
their  return  journey  ;  of  the  eig-lit  dogs  only  two  sur- 
vived, and  the  travelers  in  a  most  exhausted  state  ar- 
rived in  the  neighborhood  of  the  large  lakes  on  the  8th 
of  June,  where  they  fortunately  fell  in  with  a  tribe  of 
natives,  who  received  them  hospitably,  and  supplied 
them  plentifully  with  fish,  so  that  after  a  day's  rest 
they  resumed  their  journey,  and  reached  the  ship  on 
the  13th.  Captain  Ross  in  the  raeanw^hile  had  made  a 
partial  survey  of  the  Isthmus,  and  discovered  another 
large  lake,  which  he  named  after  Lady  INFelville. 

After  eleven  months'  imprisonment  their  little  ship 


■  i  • 


and 

be  a 

high 

^rhich 


\ 


ship 


CAPTAW  ROSS'S  "BECO.ND   VOYAGE. 


161 


once  more  floated  b>ioyai»fc  on  the  waves,  having  been 
released  from  her  icy  barrier  on  the  17th  of  September, 
but  for  the  next  few  days  made  but  little  progress, 
being  beaten  about  among  the  icebergs,  and  driven 
hither  and  thither  by  the  currents. 

A  change*  in  the  weather,  however,  took  place,  and 
on  the  23d  they  were  once  more  frozen  in,  the  sea  in  a 
week  after  exhibiting  one  clear  and  unbroken  surface. 
All  October  was  passed  in  cutting  through  the  ice  into 
a  more  secure  locality,  and  another  dreary  winter  hav- 
ing set  in,  it  became  necessary  to  reduce  the  allowance 
of  provisions.  This  winter  was  one  of  unparalleled 
severity,  tl  e  thermometer  falling  92°  below  freezing 
point.  During  the  ensuing  spring  a  variety  of  explo- 
ratory journeys  were  carried  on,  and  in  one  of  these 
Commander  Boss  succeeded  in  planting  the  British 
flag  on  the  North  Magnetic  Pole.  The  position  which 
had  been  usually  assigned  to  this  interesting  spot  by 
the  learned  of  Europe,  was  lat.  70°  N.,  and  long.  98° 
30'  "W". ;  but  Ross,  by  careful  observations,  determined 
it  to  lie  in  lat.  70°  5'  17"  N.,  and  long.  96°  46'  45"  W., 
to  the  southward  of  Cape  Nikolai,  on  the  western  shore 
of  Boothia.  But  it  has  since  been  found  that  the  cen- 
ter of  magnetic  intensity  is  a  movable  point  revolving 
within  the  frigid  zone. 

"  The  place  of  the  observatory,"  Ross  remarks,  "  was 
as  near  to  the  magnetic  pole  as  the  limited  means  which 
I  possessed  enabled  me  to  determine.  The  amount  of 
the  dip,  as  indicated  by  my  dipping-needle,  was  89° 
59',  being  thus  within  one  minute  of  the  vertical  ; 
while  the  proximity  at  least  of  this  pole,  if  not  its  ac- 
tual existence  where  we  stood,  was  further  confirmed 
by  the  action,  or  rather  by  the  total  inaction,  of  the 
several  horizontal  needles  then  in  my  possession." 

Parry's  observations  placed  it  eleven  minutes  distant 
only  from  the  site  determined  by  Ross. 

"As  soon,"  continues  Ross,  "as  I  had  satisfied  my 
own  mind  on  the  subject,  I  made  known  to  the  party 
this  gratifying  result  of  all  our  joint  labors  ;  and  it  was 
then  that,  amidst  mutual  congratulations,  we  fixed  the 


102 


PE0GKES8   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


British  flag  on  the  spot,  and  took  possession  of  the 
North  Magnetic  Pole  and  its  adjoining  territory  in  the 
name  of  Great  Britain  and  King  William  IV.  AVo 
had  abundance  of  materials  for  building  in  the  frag- 
ments of  limestone  that  covered  the  beach,  and  wo 
therefore  erected  a  cairn  of  some  magnitude,  imder 
which  we  buried  a  canister  containing  a  record  of  the 
interesting  tact,  only  regretting  that  we  had  not  tho 
means  of  constructing  a  pyramid  of  more  importance, 
and  of  strength  sulHcient  to  withstand  the  assaults  of 
time  and  of  the  Esquimaux.  Had  it  been  a  pyramid 
as  large  as  that  of  Cheops,  I  am  not  quite  sure  that  it 
would  have  done  more  than  satisfy  our  ambition  under 
the  feelings  of  that  exciting  day." 

On  the  28th  of  August,  1831,  they  contrived  to  warp 
the  Victory  out  into  the  open  sea,  and  made  sail  on 
the  following  morning,  but  were  soon  beset  with  ice, 
as  OK  the  former  occasion,  being  once  more  completely 
frozen  in  by  the  27th  of  September. 

On  the  previous  occasion  their  navigation  had  been 
three  miles ;  this  year  it  extended  to  four.  Tiiis  ])ro- 
tracted  detention  in  the  ice  made  their  present  posi- 
tion one  of  great  danger  and  peril.  As  tiiere  seemed 
no  prospect  of  extracting  their  vessel,  the  resolution 
was  come  to  of  abandoning  her,  anr!  making  the  best 
of  their  way  up  the  inlet  to  Fury  Beach,  there  to  avail 
themselves  of  the  boats,  provisions,  and  stores,  which 
woidd  assist  them  in  reaching  Davis'  Straits,  where 
they  might  expect  to  fall  in  with  one  of  the  whale 
ships. 

On  the  23d  of  April,  1832,  having  collected  all  that 
was  useful  and  necessary,  the  expedition  set  out,  drag- 
ging their  provisions  and  boats  over  a  vast  expanse  of 
rugged  ice.  "The  loads  being  too  heavy  to  be  car- 
ried at  once,  made  it  necessary  to  go  backward  and 
forward  twice,  and  even  oftener,  the  same  day.  Tiiey 
had  to  encounter  dreadful  tempests  of  snow  and  drift, 
and  to  make  several  circuits  in  order  to  avoid  impas- 
sable barriers.  The  general  result  was,  that  by  the 
12th  of  May  they  had  traveled  329  miles  to  gain  thirty 


i> 


CAPTAIN   ROSS  S   SECOND   VOYAOK. 


Ifi3 


that 
(irag- 
se  of 
car- 
and 
They 
drift, 
npas- 
y  the 
thirty 


in  a  direct  line,  having  in  tliis  labor  expended  a 
month."  After  this  preliminary  movement,  tliey  bade 
a  farewell  to  their  little  vessel,  nailing  her  culurs  to 
the  mast.  Capt.  Ross  describes  himself  as  deeply  af- 
fected;  this  being  the  first  vessel  he  had  been  obliged 
to  abandon  of  thirty-six  in  which  he  hud  served  dur- 
ing the  course  of  forty-two  years.  On  the  9th  of  June, 
Commander  Ross  and  two  others,  with  a  fortnight's 
j)rovisions,  left  the  main  body,  who  were  more  heav- 
ily loaded,  to  ascertain  the  state  of  the  boats  and  sup- 
plies at  Fury  Beach.  Returning  they  met  their  com- 
rades on  the  25th  of  June,  reporting  that  they  had 
found  three  of  the  boats  washed  away,  but  enough  still 
left  for  their  purpose,  and  all  the  provisions  were  in 
good  condition.  The  remainder  of  the  journey  was 
accomplished  by  the  whole  party  in  a  week,  and  on 
the  Ist  of  July  they  reared  a  canvas  mansion,  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Somerset  House,  and 
enjoyed  a  hearty  meal. 

By  the  1st  of  August  the  boats  were  rendered  ser- 
viceable, and  a  considerable  extent  of  open  sea  being 
visible,  they  set  out,  and  after  much  buffeting  among 
the  ice  in  their  frail  shallops,  reached  the  mouth  of 
the  inlet  by  the  end  of  August.  After  several  fruit- 
less attempts  to  run  along  Barrow's  Strait,  the  obstruc- 
tions of  the  ice  obliged  them  to  haul  the  boats  on  shore, 
and  pitch  their  tents.  Barrow's  Strait  w-as  found,  from 
repeated  surveys,  to  be  one  impenetrable  mass  of  ice. 
After  lingering  here  till  the  third  week  in  September, 
it  was  unanimously  agreed  that  their  only  resource 
Avas  to  fall  back  on  the  stores  at  Fury  Beach,  and  there 
spend  their  fourth  winter.  They  were  only  able  to  get 
half  the  distance  in  the  boats,  which  were  hauled  on 
shore  in  Batty  Bay  on  the  24th  of  September,  and 
the  rest  of  their  journey  continued  on  foot,  the  pro- 
visions being  dragged  on  sledges.  On  the  7th  of  Oc- 
tober they  once  more  reached  their  home  at  the  scene 
of  the  wreck.  They  now  managed  to  shelter  their 
canvas  tent  by  a  wall  of  snow,  and  setting  up  an  ex- 
tra stove,  made  themselves  tolerably  comfortable  until 


1G4 


I'lJOGlJI^S    OF    AltCTIO    DISCOVEUY. 


the  increasing  severity  of  the  winter,  and  rigor  of 
the  cold,  added  to  the  tempestuous  weather,  made 
them  perfect  prisoners,  and  sorely  tried  their  patience. 
Scurvy  now  bei»;an  to  attack  several  of  the  party,  and 
on  the  IGtli  of  February,  1833,  Thomas,  the  carpenter, 
fell  a  victim  to  it,  and  two  others  died.  "  Their  situ- 
ation was  becoming  truly  awful,  since,  if  they  were 
not  liberated  in  the  ensuing  summer,  little  prospect 
appeared  of  their  surviving  another  year.  It  was 
necessary  to  make  a  reduction  in  the  allowance  of 
preserved  meats ;  bread  was  somewhat  deficient,  and 
the  stock  of  wine  and  spirits  was  entirely  exhausted. 
However,  as  they  caught «,  few  foxes,  which  were  con- 
sidered a  delicacy,  and  there  was  plenty  of  flour, 
sugar,  soups,  and  vegetables,  a  diet  could  be  easily 
arranged  sufficient  to  support  the  party." 

AVhile  the  ice  remained  firm,  advantage  was  taken 
of  the  spring  to  carry  forward  a  stock  of  provisions  to 
Eatty  Bay,  and  this,  though  only  thirty-two  miles,  oc- 
cupied them  a  whole  month,  owing  to  their  reduced 
numbers  from  sickness  and  heavy  loads,  with  the  jour- 
neyings  to  and  fro,  having  to  go  over  the  ground  eight 
times. 

On  the  8th  of  July  they  finally  abandoned  this  de- 
pot, and  encamped  on  the  12th  at  their  boat  station  in 
batty  Bay,  where  the  aspect  of  the  sea  was  watched 
with  intense  anxiety  for  more  than  a  month.  On  the 
loth  of  August,  taking  advantage  of  a  lane  of  water 
which  led  to  the  northward,  the  party  embarked,  and 
on  the  following  morning  had  got  as  far  as  the  turn- 
ing point  of  their  last  year's  expedition.  Making  their 
way  slowly  among  the  masses  of  ice  with  which  the 
inlet  was  encumbered,  on  the  Itth  they  found  the  wide 
expanse  of  Barrow's  Strait  open  before  them,  and  nav- 
igable, and  reached  to  within  twelve  miles  of  Cape 
York.  Pushing  on  with  renewed  spirits,  alternately 
rowing  and  sailing,  on  the  night  of  the  2.5th  they 
rested  in  a  good  harbor  on  the  eastern  shore  of  !Navy 
Board  Inlet.  At  four  on  the  following  morning  they 
we»e  roused  from  their  slumbers  by  the  joyful  intelli- 


CAPTAIN   ROSS  8   SECOND  VOYAGE. 


165 


;or  of 
made 
ience. 
f,  and 
lenter, 
r  situ- 
r  were 
ospect 
Lt  was 
ice  of 
it,  and 
austed. 
re  con- 
f  flour, 
easily 

i  taken 
jions  to 
lies,  oc- 
educed 
le  jour- 
d  eight 


gence  of  a  ship  being  in  sight,  and  never  did  men 
more  hurriedly  and  energetically  set  out ;  but  tlie  ele- 
ments conspiring  against  them,  after  being  baffled  by 
calms  and  currents,  they  had  the  misery  to  see  tlie 
ship  leave  them  with  a  fair  breeze,  and  found  it  im- 
possible to  overtake  her,  or  make  themselves  seen.  A 
few  hours  later,  however,  their  despair  was  relieved  by 
the  sig)it  of  another  vessel  wiMch  was  lying  to  in  a  calm. 
By  dint  of  hard  rowing  they  were  this  time  more  for 
tunate,  and  soon  came  up  with  her ;  she  proved  to  be 
the  Isabella,  of  Hull,  the  very  shij^  in  which  Ross  had 
made  his  first  voyage  to  these  seas.  Capt.  Ross  was 
told  circumstantially  of  his  own  death,  &c.,  two  years 
previously,  and  he  had  some  difficulty  in  convincing 
them  that  it  was  really  he  and  his  party  who  now  stood 
before  them.  So  great  was  the  joy  with  which  they 
were  received,  that  the  Isabella  manned  her  yards, 
and  her  former  commander  and  his  gallant  band  of 
adventurers  were  saluted  with  three  hearty  cheers. 
The  scene  on  board  can  scarcely  be  described ;  each 
of  the  crew  vied  with  the  other  in  assisting  and  com- 
forting the  party,  and  it  cannot  better  be  told  than  in 
Ross's  own  words  :  — 

"  The  ludicrous  soon  took  place  of  all  other  feelings  ; 
in  such  a  crowd,  and  such  confusion,  all  serious  thought 
was  impossible,  while  the  new  buoyancy  of  our  spirits 
made  us  abundantly  willing  to  be  amused  by  the  scene 
which  now  opened.  Every  man  was  hungry,  and  was 
to  be  fed  ;  all  were  ragged,  and  were  to  be  clothed  ; 
there  was  not  one  to  whom  washing  was  not  indispen- 
sable, nor  one  whom  his  beard  did  not  deprive  of  all 
human  semblance.  All,  every  thing  too,  was  to  be  done 
at  once  :  it  was  washing,  shaving,  dressing,  eating,  all 
intermingled  ;  it  was  all  the  materials  of  each  jumbled 
together,  while  in  the  midst  of  all  there  were  intermina- 
ble questions  to  be  asked  and  answered  on  both  sides  ; 
the  adventures  of  the  Victory,  our  own  escapes,  the 
politics  of  England,  and  the  news  which  was  now  four 
years  old. 

"  But  all  subsided  into  peace  at  last.    The  sick  were 


»*-m 


I  ill  i  I 


m 


:P 


n 


ICO 


rUonUKHS  OF  akctig  dihcovkry. 


nccHMiuiiodjitc'd,  tlu^  Hcamc'ii  <lis[)f»se(l  of,  and  all  was 
dotus  I'or  UH  which  vwiv  and  kiiidiirsH  (!ouhl  porf'onn. 

'^  NijL;lit.  at  h'li^th  l)n)ii<rhi<jiii('t  and  hcHouh  tliou«^hfs, 
and  I  trust  tlu'ro  was  not  a  man  ainonjLjf  us  who  did  not 
tiicn  oxpiVHs,  wiiorii  it  was  i\m'.,  Ins  jjjratitudc  for  that 
interposition  which  liad  raised  us  all  from  a  despair 
which  none  couhl  now  for«jfct,  and  had  broufifht  r«s  from 
thi!  very  honU'rs  of  a  most  distant  fjjrave,  ♦^;>  life  ami 
friends  and  civilization.  Lon^yj  accustomed,  however, 
to  a  (!old  bed  on  tlio  hard  snow  or  L  bare  rock,  few 
could  slee[)  amid  the  comfort  of  our  new  acconnnoda- 
tions.  1  was  myself  compelled  to  leave  tlie  bi'd  wiiich 
liad  l)een  kindly  assii^ned  me,  and  take  my  abode  in  a 
chair  for  the  ni<»;ht,  nor  did  it  fare  mudi  better  with  the 
rest.  It  was  for  time  to  reconcile  us  to  this  sudden  and 
violent  chan<j;e,  to  break  thron<j;h  what  had  been  rno 
luibit,  and  inure  us  onco  more  to  the  usages  (►f  our 
former  djiys." 

The  Isabella  remained  some  time  loni«;er  to  prosecute 
the  fishery,  and  leil  Davis'  Strait  on  hor  homewai'd 
passage  on  tlie  30i!i  September.  On  the  12tli  of  Oc- 
tober they  made  tho  ()rkney  Islands,  and  arrived  at 
Hull  on  the  18th.  The  bold  explorers,  who  had  long 
been  given  up  asi  lost,  were  looked  u])on  as  men  risen 
from  the  grave,  and  met  and  escorted  by  crowds  of 
sympathizers.  A  public  entertainment  was  given  to 
them  by  the  townspeople,  at  which  the  freedom  of  the 
town  was  presented  to  Captain  Ross,  and  next  day  ho 
left  for  London,  to  report  to  the  Admiralty,  and  was 
honored  by  a  presentation  to  the  king  at  AVindsor. 

The  Admiralty  liberally  rewarded  all  the  parties, 
except  indeed  Captain  Ross.  Commander  J.  C.  Ross 
was  appointed  to  the  guardship  at  Portsmouth  to  com- 
plete his  period  of  service,  and  then  received  his  post 
rank.  Mr.  Thom,  the  purser,  Mr.  M'Diarmid,  the  sur- 
geon, and  the  petty  officers,  were  ap]>ointed  to  good 
situations  in  the  navy.  The  seamen  received  tlie  usual 
double  pay  given  to  arctic  explorers,  up  to  the  time 
of  leaving  their  ship,  and  full  pay  from  that  date  until 
their  arrival  in  England. 


CAPTAIN   ROSS  H   BKCOND  VOYAGE. 


107 


A  committee  ot'tlie  ITouBe  ot'CommonB  took  up  the 
case  ot'Cuptain  Ross  esirly  in  tl»e  HesHion  of  1834,  and 
on  their  recommendation  5,000/. was  granted  liim  as  a 
remuneration  for  his  })ecuniary  outlay  and  jjrivations. 

A  baronetcy,  on  tlie  recommendation  of  the  Kamo 
committee,  was  also  conferred  by  his  Majesty  William 
IV.  on  Mr.  Felix  Booth. 

In  looking  back  on  the  results  of  this  voyage,  no  im- 
partial in(|uiror  can  deny  to  (Ja])tain  Koss  the  merit  of 
having  eii'ected  much  good  by  tracing  and  surveying 
the  whole  of  the  long  western  coast  of  Kegent  Inlet, 
proving  IJootliia  to  be  a  peninsula,  and  setting  at  rest 
the  probability  of  any  navigable  outlet  being  discovered 
from  this  inlet  to  the  Polar  Sea.  Tha  lakes,  rivers  and 
islands  which  were  examined,  proved  with  sufficient 
accuracy  the  correctness  of  the  information  furnished  to 
Parry  by  the  Esquimaux. 

To  Commander  James  Ross  is  due  tlie  credit  of 
resolving  many  important  scientitic  questions,  such  as 
the  combination  of  light  with  magnetism,  iixing  the 
exact  j:)Osition  of  the  magnetic  pole,  lie  was  also  tlie 
only  person  in  the  expedition  competent  to  make  obser- 
vations in  geology,  natural  history  and  botany.  Out 
of  about  700  miles  of  new  land  explored,  Connnander 
Ross,  in  the  expeditions  which  he  planned  and  con- 
ducted, discovered  nearly  500.  He  had,  up  to  this 
time,  passed  fourteen  summers  and  eight  winters  in 
these  seas. 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  in  his  "  Narrative  of  Voy- 
ages of  Discovery  and  liesearch,'"  p.  518,  in  opposition 
to  Ross's  opinion,  asserted  that  Boothia  was  not  joined 
to  the  continent,  but  that  they  were  "completely  divi- 
ded by  a  navigable  strait,  ten  miles  wide  and  .uj)ward, 
leading  past  Back's  Estuary,  and  into  the  Gulf  (of 
Boothia,)  of  which  the  proper  name  is  Akkolee,  not 
Boothia  ;  and  moreover,  that  the  two  seas  flow  as  freely 
into  each  other  as  Lancaster  Sound  does  into  the  Polar 
Sea."  This  assumption  has  since  been  shown  to  bo 
incorrect.  Capt.  Ross  asserts  there  is  a  difference  iu 
the  level  of  these  two  seas. 


m:" 


4 


^ 


168 


rROORE88   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


'>M 


I  may  hero  fitly  take  a  review  of  Captain  R»,48'8  ser- 
vice .  lie  entered  the  njivy  in  1700,  served  fifteen  years 
as  a  midshipnuin,  seven  as  a  lieutenant,  and  seven  as  a 
commander,  and  was  posted  on  the  7th  of  December, 
1818,  and  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  first  arctic 
expedition  ot  this  century.  On  his  return  he  received 
many  marks  of  favor  from  continental  sovereigns,  was 
knijijiited  and  made  a  Companion  of  the  Bath  on  the 
24th  of  December,  1834: ;  made  a  Commander  of  the 
Sword  of  Sweden,  a  Knight  of  the  Second  Class  of  St 
Anne  of  Prussia  (in  diamonds.)  Second  Class  of  tho 
Legion  of  Honor,  and  of  the  lied  Eagle  of  Prussia,  and 
of  Leopold  of  Belgium.  Ileceived  the  royal  premiun 
from  the  Geographical  Society  of  London,  in  1833,  fo 
liis  discoveries  in  the  arctic  regions;  also  gold  medal* 
from  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris,  and  the  lloyM 
Societies  of  Sweden,  Austria,  and  Denmark.  The  fre**- 
dom  of  the  cities  of  London,  Liver])ool,  and  Bristo)  *, 
six  gold  snuft-boxes  from  Russia,  llolland,  Denmark 
Austria,  London  and  Baden;  a  sword  valued  at  lOC 
guineas  from  the  Patriotic  Fund,  for  his  sniferings,  hav 
ing  been  wounded  thirteen  times  in  three  difi:erent 
actions  during  the  war  ;  and  one  of  the  value  of  200/. 
from  the  King  of  Sweden,  for  service  in  the  Baltic  and 
the  White  Sea.  On  the  8th  of  March,  1839,  he  was 
appointed  to  the  lucrative  post  of  British  consul  at 
Stockholm,  which  he  held  for  six  years. 

Captain  Back's  Land  Journey,  1833-35. 

Four  years  having  elapsed  without  any  tidings  being 
received  of  Capt.  Ross  and  his  crew,  it  began  to  be 
generally  feared  in  England  that  they  had  been  added 
to  the  number  of  former  sufferers,  in  the  prosecution  of 
their  arduous  undertaking. 

Dr.  Richardson,  who  had  himself  undergone  such 
frightful  perils  in  the  arctic  regions  with  Franklin,  was 
the  first  to  call  public  attention  to  the  subject,  in  a  letter 
to  the  Geographical  Society,  in  whiv^h  ho  suggested  a 
project  for  relieving  them,  if  still  alive  and  to  be  found  ; 


CAI'TAIX  BACK  8    L  VXT)   .TOCICXKV. 


169 


being 
to  be 


and  at  tlio  same  time  volunteered  Lis  services  to  the 
Colonial  Secretary  of  the  day,  to  conduct  an  exploring 
party. 

Althouf^h  the  expedition  of  Capt.  Ross  was  not  iinder- 
tukcn  nnder  the  auspices  of  ojovernuient,  it  became  a 
tijitional  concern  to  ascertain  tiie  ultimate  fate  of  it,  and 
lo  make  some  effort  for  the  relief  of  the  party,  whoso 
liorae  at  that  time  might  be  the  boisterous  sea,  or  whose 
shelter  the  snow  hut  or  the  floating  iceberg.  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson proposed  to  proceed  from  Hudson's  Bav,  in  a 
northwest  direction  to  Coronation  Gulf,  where  he  was 
to  commence  his  search  in  an  easterly  direction.  Pass- 
ing to  the  north,  along  the  eastern  side  of  this  gulf,  ho 
would  arrive  at  Point  Turnagain,  the  eastern  point  of 
his  own  former  discovery.  Having  accomplished  this, 
he  would  continue  his  search  toward  the  eastward  until 
he  reached  Melville  Island,  thus  perfecting  geographical 
discovery  in  that  quarter,  and  a  continued  coast  line 
might  be  laid  down  from  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait  to 
Beechey  Point,  leaving  only  the  small  space  between 
Franklin's  discovery  and  that  of  the  Blossom  unexplored. 
The  proposal  was  favorably  received  ;  but  owing  to  the 
political  state  of  the  country  at  the  time,  the  otter  was 
not  accepted. 

A  meeting  was  held  in  November,  1832,  at  the  rooms 
of  the  Horticultural  Society,  in  Regent  street,  to  obtain 
funds,  and  arrange  for  fitting  out  a  private  relief  exjie- 
dition,  as  the  Admiralty  and  G'  vernment  were  unable 
to  do  this  officially,  in  consequence  of  Captain  Ross's 
expedition  not  being  a  public  one.  Sir  George  Cock- 
burn  took  the  chair,  and  justly  observed  that  those  offi- 
cers who  devoted  their  time  to  the  service  of  science, 
and  braved  in  its  pursuit  the  dangers  of  nnknown  and 
ungenial  climates,  demanded  the  sympathy  and  assist- 
ance of  all.  Great  Britain  had  taken  the  lead  in  o-eo- 
graphical  discovery,  and  there  was  not  one  in  this  coun- 
try who  did  not  feel  pride  and  lionor  in  the  lame  she 
had  attained  by  the  expeditions  of  Parry  and  Franklin  ; 
but  if  we  wislu'd  to  create  future  Parrys  and  Franklins, 
if  W(>  wished  to  encourage  Britissh  enterprise  and  com- 


170 


PROOUKSS    OF    ARCTIC   DISCOVKRY. 


age,  M'o  must  provo  thut  the  officer  wlio  is  out  of  siglit 
of  his  couiitrviiU'M  is  not  f<»r«j:otten :  tliiit  there  is  con- 
s'derutioii  for  ins  HufU'riiii^-^,  unci  iipprecliition  of  liia 
spirit.  This  retlection  will  cheer  Jiini  in  the  hour  of 
trial,  and  will  permit  him,  when  surrounded  by  dangers 
and  privations,  to  induii^e  in  hope,  the  greatest  l)lessin<^ 
of  man.  Ca[)tain  (ieorge  J>ack,  K.  N.,  who  was  in 
Italy  when  the  subject  was  first  mooted,  hastened  to 
England,  and  offered  to  lead  the  l)arty,  and  his  services 
were  accepted.  A  subscription  was  entered  into,  to 
defray  the  necessary  expenses,  and  upward  of  (5000/. 
was  raised  ;  of  this  sum,  at  the  recommendation  of  Lord 
Goderich,  the  then  Secretary  of  State,  the  Treasury  con- 
tributed 2000/. 

After  an  interview  with  the  king  at  Brighton,  to  which 
he  was  specially  sunmioned,  ( -aptain  Back  made  prepa- 
rations for  his  journ(?y,  and  laid  down  his  plan  of  opera- 
tions. In  order  to  facilitate  his  views,  and  give  him 
greater  authority  over  his  men,  special  instructions  and 
authority  were  issued  by  the  Colonial  Office,  and  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  granted  him  a  commission  in 
their  service,  and  placed  every  assistance  at  his  disposal 
throuorhout  their  territorv  in  North  America. 

Every  thing  being  definitely  arranged,  Capt.  Back, 
accompanied  by  Dr.  Richard  King  as  surgeon  and  natu- 
ralist, with  three  men  who  had  been  on  the  expedition 
with  Franklin,  left  Liverpool  on  the  17th  of  February, 
1833,  in  one  of  the  New  York  packet  ships,  and  arrived 
in  America  after  a  stormy  passage  of  thirty-five  days. 
lie  proceeded  on  to  Montreal,  w^iere  he  had  great  diffi- 
culty in  preventing  two  of  the  men  from  leaving  him, 
as  their  hearts  began  to  fail  them  at  the  prospect  of 
the  severe  journey  with  its  attendant  difficulties,  which 
they  had  to  encounter. 

Four  volunteers  from  the  Royal  Artillery  corps  here 
joined  him,  and  some  voyageurs  having  been  engaged, 
the  party  left,  in  two  canoes,  on  the  25tli  of  April.  Two 
of  his  party  deserted  from  him  in  the  Ottawa  river. 

On  tlie  28th  of  June,  having  obtained  his  comple- 
ment of  men,  he  may  be  said  to  have  commenced  his 


)s  here 
gaged, 
Two 


^er. 


CAl^AIX   BACK  8    LAND  JOUUNKY. 


.) 


171 


journey.  They  suffered  dreadfully  tVoro  mvriadis  of 
Band-tlies  and  innsciuitoea,  being  so  disti<^uro(l  hy  tlielr 
nttackri  that  their  teatures  could  Hcarcely  no  recogui/A'd. 
Horse-flies,  appropriately  styled  ''  bull-dogs,"  were  an- 
other dreadful  pest,  which  })ertinaeiously  gorged  theiu- 
seh'es,  like  the  leech,  until  they  seemed  ready  to  burst. 

"It  is  in  vain  to  atteni[)t  to  defend  yourself  against 
these  puny  bloodsuckers  ;  tiiough  you  crush  thousands 
of  them,  tens  of  thousands  arise  to  avenge  the  death  of 
their  companions,  and  you  very  soon  discover  that  the 
conflict  which  you  are  waging  is  one  in  which  you  are 
Bure  to  be  defeated.  So  great  at  last  are  the  pains  and 
fatigue  in  bufteting  away  this  attacking  force,  that  in 
desnair  you  throw  yourself,  half  suft'ocated,  in  a  blanket, 
with  your  face  upon  the  ground,  and  snatch  a  few  min- 
utes of  8leei)less  rest."  Capt.  Back  adds  that  the  vig- 
orous and  unintermitting  assaults  of  these  tormenting 
pests  conveyed  the  moral  lesson  of  man's  helplessness, 
since,  with  all  our  boasted  strength,  we  are  unable  to 
repel  these  feeble  atoms  of  creation.  "  How,"  he  says, 
"  can  I  possibly  give  an  idea  of  the  torment  we  endured 
from  the  sand-flies  ?  As  we  divided  into  the  conflned 
and  suftbcating  chasms,  or  waded  through  the  close 
swamps,  they  rose  in  clouds,  actually  darkening  the  air ; 
to  see  or  to  speak  was  ecpuilly  diflicult,  for  they  rushed 
at  every  undefended  part,  and  flxed  their  poisonous 
fangs  in  an  instant.  Our  faces  streamed  with  blood,  as 
if  leeches  had  been  ap]»lied,  and  there  was  a  burning 
and  irritating  pain,  followed  by  immediate  inflamma- 
tion, and  producing  giddiness,  which  almost  drove  us 
mad,  and  caused  us  to  mojiu  with  pain  and  agony. 

At  the  Pine  pc>rtage.  Captain  Back  engaged  the 
services  of  A.  R.  McLeod,  in  the  einpk)y  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  wlio  had  been  flxed  upon  by 
Governor  Simpson,  to  aid  the  expedition.  He  was 
accompanied  by  his  wife,  three  children,  and  a  ser- 
vant; and  had  just  returned  from  the  Mackenzie  River, 
with  a  large  cargo  of  furs.  The  whole  family  were  at- 
tached to  the  ]iartv,  and  after  some  detentions  of  a 
general  and   uniinportant  character  they  arrived   at 

8 


:S.i  i 


"'!  :¥. 


172 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


Fort  Chipe^vyan  on  the  20th  of  July.  Fort  Resolu 
tion,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  was  reached  on  the  8th  of 
Auj2;ust. 

The  odd  assemblage  of  goods  and  voyageurs  in  their 
encampment  are  thus  graphically  described  by  the 
traveler,  as  he  glanced  around  him. 

"  At  my  feet  was  a  rolled  bundle  in  oil-cloth,  con- 
taining some  three  blankets,  called  a  bed;  near  it  a. 
piece  of  dried  buft'alo,  fancifully  ornamented  with  long*"'- 
black  hairs,  which  no  art,  alas,  can  prevent  from  insin- 
uating themselves  between  the  teeth,  as  you  laboriously 
masticate  the  tough,  hard  flesh ;  then  a  tolerably  clean 
napkin,  spread  by  way  of  table-cloth,  on  a  red  piece  of 
canvas,  and  supporting  a  tea-pot,  some  biscuits,  and  a 
salt-cellar  ;  near  this  a  tin  plate,  close  by  a  square  kind 
of  box  or  safe  of  the  same  material,  rich  with  a  pale, 
greasy  hair,  the  produce  of  the  colony  at  Red  River; 
and  the  last,  the  far-renowned  ^<?mmica72/,  unquestion- 
ably the  best  food  of  the  country  for  expeditions  such 
as  ours.  Behind  me  were  two  boxes  containing  astro- 
nomical instr'iments,  and  a  sextant  Ijangon  the  ground, 
while  the  difierent  corners  of  the  tent  were  occupied 
by  a  washing  apparatus,  a  gun,  an  Indian  shot-poucli, 
bags,  basins,  and  an  unhappy-looking  japanned  pot, 
whose  melancholy  bumps  and  hollows  seemed  to  re- 
proach me  for  many  a  bruise  endured  upon  the  rocks 
and  portages  between  Montreal  and  Lake  Winnipeck. 
Nor  were  my  crew  less  motley  than  tiie  furniture  of 
the  tent.  It  consisted  of  an  Englishman,  a  man  from 
Stornaway,  two  Canadians,  two  Metifs  or  half-breeds, 
and  three  Iroquois  Indians.  Babel  could  not  have  pro- 
duced a  worse  confusion  of  unharmonious  sounds  than 
was  the  conversation  they  kept  up." 

Having  obtained  at  Fort  Resolution  all  possible  in- 
formation, from  the  Indians  and  otliers,  relative  to  tlie 
course  of  the  northern  rivers  of  which  he  was  in  search, 
he  divided  his  crew  into  two  parties,  five  of  whom  were 
left  as  an  escort  for  Mr.  McLeod,  and  four  were  to  ac- 
company himself  in  search  of  the  Great  Fish  River, 
Bince  appropriately  named  afrer  Back  Ipuisolf. 


CAPTAIN  back's  LAND  JODKNET. 


173 


sola 

,h  of 
> 

their 
T  the 

con- 
i'  it  a/ 
long^'>- 
insin- 
ioualy 
clean 
2ce  of 
and  a 
3  kind 
pale, 
^ivev ; 
8stion- 
8  such 
;  astro- 
round, 
cupied 
30ucb , 
\  pot, 
to  re- 
rocks 
ipeck. 
ftire  of 
1  from 
)reeds, 
VQ  pro- 
s  than 


On  the  19th  of  August  they  began  the  ascent  of  the 
Hoar  Frost  Iliver,  whose  course  was  a  series  of  tlie 
most  fearful  cascades  and  rapids.  The  woods  hero 
were  so  thick  as  to  render  them  almost  impervious, 
consisting  chiefly  of  stunted  firs,  which  occasioned  in- 
finite trouble  to  the  party  to  force  their  way  through  ; 
added  to  which,  they  had  to  clamber  over  fallen  trees, 
through  rivulets,  and  over  bogs  and  swamps,  until  the 
difticulties  appeared  so  appalling,  as  almost  to  dis- 
hearten the  party  from  prosecuting  their  journey.  The 
heart  of  Caj^tain  Back  was,  however,  of  too  stern  a  cast 
to  be  dispirited  by  difiiculties,  at  which  less  persever- 
ing explorers  would  have  turned  away  discomfited, 
and  cheering  on  his  men,  like  a  bold  and  gallant  leader, 
the  first  in  the  advance  of  danger,  they  arrived  at  length 
in  an  open  space,  where  they  rested  for  awhile  to  recruit 
their  exhausted  strength.  The  place  was,  indeed,  one 
of  barrenness  and  desolation  ;  crag  was  piled  u^)on  crag 
to  the  height  of  2000  feet  from  the  base,  and  the  course 
of  the  river  here,  in  a  state  of  contraction,  was  marked 
by  an  uninterrupted  line  of  foam. 

However  great  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  may  be, 
and  however  resolute  may  be  the  will,  severe  toil  will 
at  length  relax  the  spirits,  and  bring  a  kind  of  despon- 
dency upon  a  heart  naturally  bold  and  undaunted .  This 
was  found  ixirticularly  the  case  now  with  the  intei-])re- 
ter,  who  became  a  dead  weight  upon  the  party.  Ilaj)id 
now  succeeded  ruxDid ;  scarcely  had  they  surmounted 
one  fall  tlian  another  presented  itself,  rising  like  an  am- 
iiliitlieater  before  them  to  the  height  of  fifty  feet.  Tliey, 
however,  gained  at  length  the  ascent  of  this  turbulent 
and  unfriendly  river,  tlie  romantic  beauty  and  v.ild 
scenery  of  which  w^ere  strikingly  grand,  and  after  pass- 
ing successively  a  series  of  portages,  rapids,  falls,  lakes, 
and  rivers,  on  the  2Tth  Back  observed  from  the  summit 
of  a  high  hill  a  very  large  hake  full  of  deep  bays  and 
islands,  and  which  has  been  named  Aylmer  Lake,  after 
the  Governor-General  of  Canada  at  that  time.  The 
boat  was  sent  out  with  tlu-ec  men  to  search  for  tlie  lake, 
or  outlet  of  the  river,  which  they  discovered  on  the  sec- 


'^i' , 


■    1 
il   I 


ill' 


-   ^4 


«i^< 


174 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


^ii-i 


ond  day,  and  Captain  Back  hims(?lf,  during  their  ab- 
sence, also  accidentally  discovered  its  source  in  the 
Sand  llill  Lake,  not  far  from  his  oncampinent.  Not 
prouder  was  Bruce  when  he  stood  on  the  green  sod 
which  covers  the  source  of  the  Nile,  than  was  Captain 
Back  when  he  found  that  lie  was  standing  at  the  source 
of  a  river,  the  existence  of  which  was  known,  but  the 
course  of  wliich  was  a  problem,  no  traveler  had  yet  ven- 
tured to  solve.  Yielding  to  that  pleasurable  emotion 
which  discoverers,  in  theiirst  bound  of  their  tr.anspoi't, 
may  be  pardoned  for  indulging,  Back  tells  us  he  threw 
himself  down  on  the  bank  and  drank  a  kearty  draught 
of  the  limpid  water.  "  '     . 

"For  this  occasion,"  he  adds,  "I  had  reserved  a  lit- 
tle grog,  and  need  hardly  say  with  what  cheerfulness 
it  was  shared  among  the  crcM',  whose  welcome  tidings 
had  vorihed  the  notion  of  Dr.  Ivichardson  and  myself, 
and  thus  placed  beyond  doubt  the  existence  of  the 
TI»lew-ee-choh,  or  Great  Fish  River. 

On  tiie  30th  of  Auo-ust,  thev  began  to  move  toward 
the  river,  but  on  reaching  Musk-ox  Lake,  it  was  found 
impossible  to  stand  the  force  of  the  rapids  in  their  frail 
canoe,  and  as  winter  was  approaching,  their  return  to 
the  rendezvous  on  Slave  Lake  was  determined  on. 

At  Clinton  Colden  L:ike,  some  Lidians  visited  tliom 
from  the  Chief  Akaitclio,  wlio.  it  will  be  rememlxM-ed. 
was  the  guide  of  Sir  John  Frnnklin.  Two  of  these  Li- 
dians  remembered  Captain  Back,  one  having  accom- 
panied him  to  the  Coppermine  River,  on  Franklin's 
first  ex]ie(Htion. 

At  the  Cat  or  Artillerv  Lake,  thev  had  to  abandon 
tlieir  canoe,  and  perform  the  rest  of  the  joui-ney  on  foot 
over  precipitous  rocks,  through  friglif fnl  gorg(^s  and  ra- 
A'ines,  he:i]»ed  with  massesof  granite,  and  iilong  narrow 
ledges,  where  a  false  step  would  have  been  fatal. 

At  Fort  Beliance,  the  party  found  Mr.  McLeod  had, 
during  their  absence,  erected  the  frame-work  of  a  com- 
fortable residence  for  them,  and  all  hands  set  to  work 
to  complete  it.  After  many  obstacles  and  difficulties, 
it  was  llnished. 


CAPTAIN   back's   LAND  JOURNEY. 


175 


a  c'<:»in- 
o  work 
cultles, 


1 


Dr.  King  joined  tiiem  on  the  IGth  of  September,  with 
two  laden  Dtiteiiux. 

On  the  5th  of  November,  they  exchanged  their  cold 
tents  for  the  new  house,  which  was  fifty  feet  long  by 
thirty  broad,  and  contained  four  rooms,  besides  a  S])a- 
ciuiis  hall  in  the  center,  for  the  reception  and  accom- 
modation of  the  Indians,  to  which  a  sort  of  rude  kitchen 
was  attached. 

As  the  winter  advanced,  bands  of  starving  Indians 
continued  to  arrive,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  some  re- 
lief, as  little  or  nothing  was  to  be  procured  by  Inmtiiig. 
They  would  stand  around  while  the  men  were  taking 
th(iir  meals,  watching  every  mouthful  M'itii  tlie  most 
longing,  imploring  look,  but  yet  never  uttered  a  comi- 
plaint. 

At  other  times  they  would,  seated  round  the  fire,  oc- 
cupy themselves  in  roasting  and  devouring  small  bits 
of  their  reindeer  garnicnts,  which,  even  wiien  entire, 
aflbrded  them  a  very  insuHicient  protection  against  a 
tem])eratiire  of  102"  below  freezing  point. 

The  sufferings  of  the  poor  Indians  at  this  period  are 
described  as  friglitful.  "  Famine  with  her  gaunt  and 
bony  arm,"  says  Back,  "  })ursued  them  at  every  turn, 
witluM'ed  their  energies,  and  strewed  iluni  lifeless  on 
the  cold  bosom  of  tiie  snow."  It  was  im]»o-s;ible  to 
alfonl  relief  out  of  their  scanty  ston;  U)  ;.ll,  but  even 
small  ])ortions  of  the  mouldy  pemmiean  intended  for 
tile  dogs,  un])ahitable  as  it  was,  wis  gl  idly  iweived, 
and  saved  many  from  perishing.  '^  Oftei',"  adds  Biick, 
"dill  I  share  my  own  plate  witli  the  children  whoFO 
helpless  state  and  ])iteons  cries  were  peculiarly  distress- 
ing ;  com])assion  for  the  full-grown  may,  or  may  not, 
be  felt,  but  that  heart  must  be  cased  in  steel  which  is 
insensible  t(   the  cry  of  a  child  for  food." 

At  this  critical  juncture,  Akaitclio  made  his  appear- 
ance with  an  o]iportune  su])])ly  of  a  little  m(  at,  wiiich 
in  some  measure  enabled  Captain  Back  to  relieve  the 
sufferers  around  him,  iiiany  of  whom,  to  his  great  de- 
liirht,  went  awav  witii  Akaitclio.  The  stock  of  nu>at 
was  soon  exhausted,  and  they  had  to  open  their  pern- 


III  I 


■■''''% 


':W$ '" 


ij- 


•*mr 


176 


PnOGRESS   OF   AJJCTIO   DISCOVEKT. 


mican.  The  officers  contented  themselves  with  the 
short  supply  of  half  a  pound  a  day,  but  the  laboring 
men  could  not  do  with  less  than  a  pound  and  three- 
quarters.  The  cold  now  set  in  with  an  intensity  which 
Captain  Back  had  never  before  experienced, —  the  ther- 
mometer, on  the  17th  of  January,  being  70°  below  zero. 
"  Such  indeed,  (he  says,)  was  the  abstraction  of  heat, 
that  with  eight  large  logs  of  dry  wood  on  the  fire,  I 
could  not  get  the  thermometer  higher  than  12°  below 
zero.  Ink  and  paint  froze.  The  sextant  cases  and 
boxes  of  seasoned  wood,  principally  fir,  all  split.  The 
skin  of  the  hands  became  dry,  cracked  and  opened 
into  unsightly  and  smarting  gashes,  which  we  were 
obliged  to  anoint  with  grease.  On  one  occasion,  after 
wasliing  my  face  witliin  three  feet  of  the  lire,  my  hair 
was  actually  clotted  with  ice  before  I  had  time  to  dry  it." 

The  hunters  suffered  severely  from  the  intensity  of 
^he  cold,  and  compared  the  sensation  of  handling  their 
guns  to  that  of  touching  red-hot  iron,  and  so  excessive 
was  the  pain,  tliat  they  were  obliged  to  wrap  thongs  of 
leather  round  the  triggers  to  keep  their  fingers  from 
coming  into  contact  with  the  steel. 

The  sufferings  which  the  party  now  endured  were 
great,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  exemplary  conduct 
of  Akaitcho  in  j^rocuring  them  game,  it  is  to  be  doubted 
whether  any  would  have  survived  to  tell  the  misery 
they  had  endured.  The  sentiments  of  this  worthy  sav 
age  were  nobly  expressed  — "  The  great  chief  trusts  in 
us,  and  it  is  better  that  ten  Indians  perish,  than,  that 
one  white  man  should  perish  through  our  negligence 
and  breach  of  faith." 

On  the  11th  of  February,  Mr.  McLeod  and  his  family 
removed  to  a  place  half  way  between  the  fort  and  the 
Indians,  in  order  to  facilitate  their  own  support,  and 
assist  in  procuring  food  by  hunting.  His  situation, 
however,  became  soon  one  of  the  greatest  embarrass- 
ment, he  and  his  family  being  surrounded  by  difficul- 
ties, privations,  and  deaths.  Six  of  the  natives  near 
him  s^ank  under  tlio  iiorrors  of  starvation,  antl  Akaitcht 
and  his  hunters  were  twelve  days'  march  distant. 


CAITAIN   BACKS   LAND   JOURNEY. 


177 


the 


igence 


■ainily 
id  the 
|t,  and 
liation, 
lirrass- 
ifficul- 
ncar 
laitclu 


Toward  the  end  of  April,  Capt.  Back  began  1  o  make 
arranf^emcnts  for  constructing  boats  for  prosecuting  tlie 
expedition  once  more,  and  wliile  so  employed,  on  the 
25tli  a  messenger  arrived  with  the  gratifying  intelli- 
i^ence,  that  Capt.  Ross  had  arrived  safely  in  England, 
confirmation  of  which,  was  afforded  in  extracts  irom 
the  Times  and  Herald^  and  letters  from  tho  long  lost 
adventurers  themselves.  Their  feelings  at  these  jj-hid 
tidings  are  thus  described  : — "  In  the  fullness  of  our 
hearts  we  assembled  together,  and  humbly  offered  up 
our  thanks  to  that  merciful  Providence,  wlio  in  the 
beautiful  language  of  scripture  hath  said, '  Mine  own 
will  I  bring  again,  as  I  did  sometime  from  the  deeps 
of  the  sea.'  The  thought  of  so  wonderful  a  preserva- 
Uon  overpowered  for  a  time  the  common  occurrences 
of  life.  We  had  just  sat  down  to  breakfast ;  but  our 
uppetite  was  gone,  and  the  day  was  passed  in  a  fever- 
ish state  of  excitement.  Seldom,  indeed,  did  my  friend 
Mr.  King  or  I  indulge  in  a  libation,  but  on  this  joyful 
occasion  economy  was  forgotton  ;  a  treat  was  given  to 
the  men,  and  for  ourselves  the  social  sympatliies  wei-e 
quickened  by  a  generous  bowl  of  punch."  Capt,  Back's 
former  interpreter,  Augustus,  hearing  that  he  was  in 
the  country,  set  out  on  foot  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  join 
him,  but  getting  separated  from  his  two  companions, 
the  pillant  little  fellow  was  either  exhausted  by  suffer- 
ing und  privations,  or,  caught  in  the  midst  of  an  t)pen 
traverse,  in  one  of  those  terrible  snow  storms  whicli 
may  be  raid  to  blow  almost  through  the  frame,  he  had 
sunk  to  rise  no  more,  his  bleached  remains  being  dis- 
covered not  far  from  the  Riviere  a  Jean.  "  Such," 
says  Capt.  Back,  "  was  the  miserable  end  of  poor  Au- 
gustus, a  faithful,  disinterested,  kind-hearted  creature, 
who  had  won  the  regard,  not  of  myself  only,  but  I 
ma}'  add,  of  Sir  J.  Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson  also, 
by  qualities  which,  wherever  found,  in  the  lowest  as  io. 
tho  highest  forms  of  social  life,  are  the  ornament  and 
charm  of  humanity." 

On  the  7th  of  Jun'3,  all  the  preparations  being  com- 
\  ^eted,  McLeod  having  been  previously  sent  on  to  hunt, 


i»lt|!!' 


:;'•'!!* 


-.   %. 


178 


I'UOOUKSS   OF    AltCTIO    DISCOVEUY. 


m 


uiui  <l(>i)()sit  casks  of  meat  ut  various  stages,  Buck  set 
out  with  Mr.  lung,  accoinjmiiied  hy  lour  voyagers  and 
an  Indian  guide.  The  stores  not  re<|nire<l  wei'c  huried, 
and  the  doors  and  windows  of  the  ht)use  ])h.)cked  u[). 

At  Artillery  liake,  Hack  ])ieked  up  the  renuiinder 
of  ins  party,  M'ith  the  carjX'Uters  wlio  iuid  been  ern- 
])loy<Hl  j)re[)aring  boats.  The  lightest  and  best  was 
chosen  and  ])lace(.l  on  runners  plated  with  iron,  and  in 
this  manner  she  was  di'awn  over  the  ice  by  two  men  aud 
bix  line  dogs.  The  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  was  fol- 
lowed, as  it  Mas  found  less  rocky  and  pri'cij)itoas  than 
the  opposite  one.  Tiie  nnirch  was  ])rosecut(Hl  hy  night, 
the  air  being  more  fresh  aud  pleanant,  and  tlie  party 
took  rest  iu  the  day.  The  glare  of  the  ice,  thedilii- 
cully  eiu'ountered  in  getting  the  boat  along,  ihc  ice  be- 
ing so  bad  that  t!ie  spike;  of  the  runners  cut  through 
instead  of  sliding  over  it,  and  tlw^  thick  snow  which 
tell  in  June,  greatly  iuci'eased  the  labor  of  gc^ttiug  along. 
The  cold,  raw  wind  pierced  through  them  in  spite  of 
cloaks  and  blankets.  After  being  caulked,  the  boat 
was  launched  on  the  14tb  of  June,  the  lake  bein.g  snf- 
lu'iently  unobstructed  to  admit  of  ber  being  towed 
along  shore.  Tlu^  weather  now  became  exceedingly 
un|)leasant —  hail,  snow,  and  rain,  pelted  them  one  after 
the  other  for  some  tinu;  without  res])ite,  and  then  only 
yielded  to  S(|ualls  that  overturned  the  boat.  With 
alteiMuite  spells  and  baitings  to  rest,  they  however, 
gnulually  advanced  on  the  traverse,  and  were  really 
nuU<iiig  considerable  ]);ogress  wlien  pelting  showers  of 
sleet  and  drift  so  diuuned  and  confused  the  sight,  dark- 
ening the  atmo^'  '  ere,  .ind  linuting  their  view  to  oidy 
a  few  paces  befoi'c  them,  as  to  -ender  it  an  extremely 
per])lexing  task  ^>  keep  their  course. 

On  the  23d  of  June,  they  fortunately  fell  in  witb  a 
cac/ir  uiade  for  them  by  their  avant-('0}iriet\  Mr.  Mc- 
Leod,  in  wliicli  was  a  seasonable  supply  of  deer  and 
musk-ox  llesh,  tbe Intter,  however,  so  impregnate<l  Mith 
tlie  odor  frt)m  Avhich  it  takes  its  nanus  that  the  men  de- 
cbu\'d  they  Mould  rather  starve  three  days  than  sM'al- 
loM'  ;i  muiithnd  of  it.     To  hmuovc  this  unfav()ral)le  ini- 


CAPTAIN    HACKH    LAND  JOURNEY. 


170 


itli  a 
]\Ic- 

aiul 
with 

nv;il- 
iui- 


prefisit)!!,  Capt.  JJuck  oi'dered  tlic  daily  rations  to  1)0 
Bcrved  from  it  for  liis  own  mess  as  well  as  theirs,  tak- 
ing occasion  at  the  same  time,  to  imj)ress  on  their  minds 
the  injurious  consequences  of  voluntaiy  al)stinence, 
and  the  necessity  of  accommodating  their  tastes  to 
such  food  as  the  country  might  8upj)ly.  Soon  after  an- 
other cache  was  met  with,  tiius  making  eleven  animals 
in  all,  that  had  been  thus  obtained  and  secured  for 
them  by  the  kind  care  of  Mr.  McLeod. 

On  the  27th,  they  reached  Sandy  Hill  Bay,  where 
they  found  Mr.  McLeod  encamped.  On  the  28th,  the 
boat  being  too  frail  to  be  dragged  over  the  portage, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  was  carried  bodily 
by  the  crew,  and  launched  safely  in  the  Thlew-ee-choh 
or  Fish  Kiver.  After  crossing  the  portage  beyond 
Musk-ox  Ilapid,  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  having 
all  his  ])arty  together,  Captain  Back  took  a  survey  of 
his  ])rovisions  for  the  three  months  of  operations,  which 
he  found  to  consist  of  two  boxes  of  maccaroni,  a  case 
of  cocoa,  twenty-seven  bags  of  ])emmican  of  about  80 
lbs.  each,  and  a  keg  with  two  gallons  of  rum.  This  ho 
considered  an  ade^juate  supply  if  all  turned  out  sound 
and  good.  Tiie  dilliculty,  however,  of  trans])orting  a 
weiglit  of  5000  lbs,  over  ice  and  rocks,  by  a  circuitous 
route  of  full  200  miles,  may  be  easily  conceived,  not  to 
mention  the  ])ain  endured  in  walking  on  some  parts 
where  tlie  ice  formed  innumerable  spikes  that  pierced 
like  needles,  and  in  other  places  where  it  was  so  black 
and  decayed,  that  it  tlireatened  at  every  step  to  engulf 
the  adventurous  traveler.  These  and  similar  difficul- 
ties could  only  be  overcome  by  the  most  steady  perse- 
verance, and  the  most  determined  resolution. 

Among  the  group  of  dark  figures  huddled  together 
in  the  Indian  encampment  around  fliem,  Capt.  Back 
found  his  old  acquaintance,  the  Indian  beauty  of  whom 
mention  is  made  in  Sir  John  Franklin's  narrative  un- 
der the  name  of  Green  Stockings.  Although  sur- 
rounded with  a  family,  with  one  urchin  in  her  cloak 
clinging  to  her  back,  and  several  other  maternal  ac- 
5ompaniments,  Capt,   Back   immediately  recognized 

8* 


'iv'/W'- 


180 


PROGiiESS   OF   AKCl'IU   DXSCOVEKT. 


her,  and  called  her  by  her  name,  at  which  she  Uinghed, 
and  said  she  was  an  old  woman  now,  and  begged  that 
she  might  be  relieved  by  the  "  medicine  man  "  tor  she 
was  very  much  out  of  health.  However,  notwithstand- 
ing all  this,  she  was  still  the  beauty  of  her  tribe,  and 
with  that  consciousness  which  belongs  to  all  belles,  sav- 
age or  polite,  she  seemed  by  no  means  displeased  when 
Back  sketched  her  portrait. 

Mr.  McLeod  was  now  sent  back,  taking  with  him  ten 
persons  and  fourteen  dogs.  His  instructions  were  to 
proceed  to  Fort  Resolution  for  the  stores  expected  to  be 
sent  there  by  the  Hudson's  J3ay  Company,  to  build  a 
house  in  some  good  locality,  for  a  permanent  fishing 
station,  and  to  be  again  on  the  banks  of  the  Fish  Eiver 
by  the  middle  of  September,  to  aftbrd  Back  and  his 
pai'ty  any  assistance  or  relief  they  might  require. 

The  old  Indian  chief  Akaitcho,  hearing  from  the  in- 
tei'preter  that  Capt.  Back  was  in  his  immediate  neigh- 
borhood, said,  "I  have  known  the  chief  a  long  time, 
and  I  am  afraid  I  shall  never  see  him  again  ;  I  will  go 
to  him."  On  his  arrival  he  cautioned  Back  against  the 
dangers  of  a  river  w^liich  he  distinctly  told  him  the 
present  race  of  Indians  knew  nothing  of.  He  also 
warned  him  against  the  treachery  of  the  Esquimaux, 
which  he  said  was  always  masked  vmder  the  guise  of 
friendship,  observing  they  would  attack  him  when  he 
least  expected  it.  "  I  am  afraid,"  continued  the  good 
old  chief,  "  that  I  shall  never  see  you  again  ;  but  should 
you  escape  from  the  great  water,  take  care  you  are  not 
caught  by  the  winter,  and  thrown  into  a  situation  like 
that  in  which  you  were  on  your  return  from  the  Cop- 
permine, for  you  are  alone,  and  the  Indians  cannot 
assist  you." 

The  carpenters,  with  an  Iroquois,  not  being  further 
required,  were  dismissed  to  join  Mr.  McLeod,  and  on 
the  8th  of  July  they  proceeded  down  the  river.  The 
boat  was  now  launched  and  laden  witli  her  cargo,  which, 
togetlier  with  ten  persons,  she  stowed  well  enough  for 
a  smooth  river,  but  not  for  a  lake  or  sea  way.  The 
woiii'lit  was  calc'uluted  at  8300  lbs.,  exclusive  of  the 
awuinj:';.  p't1<' -^  sails,  &(*..  and  the  crow. 


CAPTAIN  BACK  8   LAND   JOUKNEY. 


181 


his 


fther 
I  on 

The 
lich, 
1  for 

The 
'  the 


Their  progress  to  tlie  sea  was  now  one  continued  suc- 
cussion  of  dangerous  and  formidable  falls,  rapids,  and 
cataracts,  which  frequently  made  Back  hold  his  breath, 
expecting  to  see  the  boat  dashed  to  shivers  against  some 
protruding  rocks  amidst  the  foam  and  furv  at  the  foot 
of  a  rapid.  The  only  wonder  is  how  in  their  frail  leaky 
boat  they  ever  shot  one  of  the  rapids.  Rapid  after 
rapid,  end  fall  after  fall,  were  passed,  each  accompa- 
nied with  more  or  less  danger  ;  and  in  one  instance  tlio 
boat  was  only  saved  by  all  hands  jumping  into  tiie 
breakers,  and  keeping  her  stern  up  tlie  stream,  until 
she  was  cleared  from  a  rock  that  had  bi'ought  her  up. 

They  had  hardly  time  to  get  into  their  places  again, 
when  they  were  carried  with  considerable  velocity 
past  a  river  which  joined  from  the  westward.  After 
passing  no  less  than  five  rapids  within  the  distance  of 
three  miles,  they  came  to  one  long  and  appalling  one, 
full  of  rocks  and  large  boulders  ;  the  sides  hemmed  in 
by  a  wall  of  ice,  and  the  current  flying  with  the  veloc- 
ity and  force  of  a  torrent.  The  boat  was  lightened  of 
her  cargo,  and  Capt.  Back  placed  himself  on  a  high 
rock,  with  an  anxious  desire  to  see  her  run  the  rapid, 
lie  had  every  hope  which  confidence  in  the  judgment 
and  dexterity  of  his  principal  men  could  inspire,  but  it 
was  impossible  not  to  feel  that  one  crash  would  be  fatal 
to  the  expedition.  Away  they  went  with  the  speed  of 
an  arrow,  and  in  a  moment  the  foam  and  rocks  hid 
them  from  view.  Back  at  last  heard  what  sounded  in 
his  ear  like  a  wild  shriek,  and  he  saw  Dr.  King,  who 
was  a  hundred  yards  before  him,  make  a  sign  with  his 
gun,  and  then  run  forward.  Back  followed  with  an 
agitation  which  may  be  easily  conceived,  when  to  his 
inexpressible  joy  he  found  that  the  shriek  was  the  tri 
umphant  whooyj  of  the  crew,  who  had  landed  safely  in 
a  small  bay  below.  For  nearly  one  hundred  miles  of 
the  distance  they  were  impeded  by  these  frightful  whirl 
pools,  and  strong  and  heavy  rapids. 

On  opening  one  of  their  bags  of  pemmican,  the  in 
genuity  of  the  Indians  at  pilfering  was  discovered,  sue 
cessive  layers  of  mixed  sand,  stones,  and  green  mea 


« 


'i 


182 


PK0GJiI-:S8    OF   AUCTIC   DISCOVERS. 


liiiving  ))een  iirtfiilly  and  clovcrly  8uT)stitutcw  for  the 
dry  meat.  Fenrt'ul  that  they  mijj^ht  be  carry iu^  heaps 
of  stone  instead  of  jn'ovision,  IJuck  liad  to  i  xamintt 
care  full'  the  remainder,  which  were  all  found  hound 
and  well-tasted,  lie  bci^an  to  fear,  from  the  inclinatioii 
of  the  rh  T  at  one  time  toward  the  south,  thai  'f  wouM 
1)0  fuinid  to  discharge  itself  in  Chestertield  Inlet,  in 
Hud^on's  Bay,  but  snbsequciitly,  to  his  great  joy,  it 
took  a  direct ^'onrse  toward  tlio  north,  and  liis  hopes  of 
reaching  Hie  Polar  Sea  were  revived.  The  river  now 
led  into  several  large  lakes,  some  studded  with  islands, 
wliich  were  named  successively  after  Sir  II.  Pelly,  and 
i\  •.  Garry,  of  tlic  Hudson's  Uay  Company  ;  two  others 
were  named  Lake  Macdougall  and  Lake  Franklin. 

On  the  S'^th  of  July,  they  fell  in  with  a  tribe  of  about 
thirty-live  very  friendly  Esquimaux,  who  aided  them 
in  transporting  their  boat  over  the  last  long  and  steep 
portage,  to  whicli  Lis  men  were  utterly  unequal,  and 
Back  justly  remarks,  to  their  kind  assistance  he  is 
mainly  indebted  i'  v  getting  to  the  sea  at  all. 

It  was  Jate  wdien  they  got  away,  and  while  threading 
thoir  course  l/ctAveen  some  sand-banks  with  a  strong 
current,  they  lirst  caught  sight  of  a  majestic  headland 
ii.'  the  extreme  distanee  to  the  north,  which  had  a 
cOH.-it-like  ai>i)earance.  This  important  promontory, 
Back  subsequently  named  after  our  gracious  Queen, 
then  Princess  Victoi'ia. 

"  This,  then,'"  observes  Back,  "  may  be  considered  as 
the  mouth  of  the  Thlew-ei.-choh,  which  after  a  violent 
and  tortuous  course  of  5o0  geographical  miles,  running 
throuii'h  an  iron-ribbed  countrv,  without  a  single  tree 
on  the  whole  line  of  its  banks,  expanding  into  five 
h'i'ge  lakes,  with  clear  horizon,  most  embarrassing  to 
the  navigator,  and  broken  into  falls,  cascades,  and  rap- 
ids, to  the  nund^er  of  eighty-three  in  the  whole,  pours 
its  water  into  the  Polar  Sea,  in  lat.  67°  11'  N.,  and  long. 
94°  oO'  '^V.,  that  is  to  sav,  alwut  thirtv-seven  miles 
more  south  than  the  C- 'Spermine  Piver,  and  nineteen 
miles  more  south  thni.  -'uit  of  Bti(;k's  Piver,  (of  Frank- 
lin,) at  the  lower  extremity  of  Batliurst's  Inlet." 


'or  the 
;  heaps 
Kiimiiitt 
bound 
inatioB 

NVOlll<' 

ilet,  in 

opes  01 
^er  now 
islands, 
Hy,  and 
0  others 
din. 

jf  about 
jd  them 
id  steep 
ual,  and 
3e  he  is 

ireading 
strono; 

leutlland 
had   a 

nontory, 
Queen, 

Icred  as 
I  violent 
running 
igle  tree 
nto  live 
,ssing  to 
and  raj)- 
e,  pours 
nd  long, 
n  miles 
nineteen 
f  iM-ank- 
let.'' 


CAI'TAfN    HACKS    LAND   JOUUNIIV. 


183 


f 


b  >i'  several  days  Back  was  able  to  make  Init  bIow 
^  fo^re.ss  along  the  ejistei'u  shore,  in  consequence  of  the 
boliu  body  of  drift-ice.  A  barren,  rocky  elevation  of 
800  feet  high,  was  named  Cape  Beaufort,  after  the 
present  hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty.  A  bluff  point 
on  tlie  eastern  side  of  the  estuary,  wlii eh  ho  considered 
to  be  the  northern  extreme,  hi-  uuined  Cape  Hay. 
Dean  and  Simpson,  }lo^vever,  in  l^'iO,  traced  thr  shore 
much  beyond  this.  The  ditficulti  let  with  liere,  be- 
^an  to  dispirit  the  men.  For  a  v  or  ten  days  they 
uid  a  continuation  of  wet,  cliilly,  foggy  weather,  and 
tlio  only  vegetation,  fern  and  moss,  was  so  wet  that  it 
would  not  burn  ;  being  thus  without  fuel,  during  this 
time  they  had  but  one  hot  meal.  Almost  without 
water,  without  any  means  of  warmtli,  or  any  kind  of 
warm  or  comforting  food,  sinking  knoe-deep,  as  they 
proceeded  on  land,  in  the  soft  shisli  and  snow,  no  won- 
der that  some  of  the  best  men,  ])onumbed  in  their  limbs 
and  dispirited  by  the  dreary  and  unpromising  prospect 
l)efore  them,  broke  out  for  a  moment,  in  low  murmur- 
ings,  tliat  theirs  was  a  hard  and  painful  duty. 

Ca])tain  Back  found  it  utterly  impossible  to  proceed, 
as  he  had  intended,  to  the  Point  Turnagain  of  Franklin, 
and  after  vainly  essaying  a  land  expedition  by  three  of 
tlie  best  walkers,  and  these  having  returned,  after  mak- 
ing l)ut  fifteen  miles'  way,  in  consequence  of  the  heavy 
rains  and  the  swampy  nature  of  the  ground,  he  came 
to  tlie  resolution  of  returning.  Keflccting,  he  says,  on 
the  long  and  dangerous  stream  they  had  to  ascend 
combining  all  the  bad  features  of  the  worst  rivers  in 
the  country,  the  hazard  of  the  falls  and  the  rapids,  and 
the  slender  hope  which  remained  of  their  attaining 
even  a  single  mile  further,  he  felt  he  had  no  choice. 
Asi^embling,  there;bre,  the  men  around  him,  and  un- 
furling the  British  flag,  which  was  saluted  with  three 
cheers,  he  announced  to  them  this  determination.  The 
latitude  of  this  place  w\as  68°  13'  57"  N.,  and  longitude 
94°  58'  1"  W.  The  extreme  point  seen  to  the  north- 
ward on  the  western  side  of  the  estuary,  in  latitude  68° 
46'  N.,  longitude  96°  20'  W.,  Back  named  Cape  Kich- 


«S 


II « 


M 

ill's;- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


■tt  1^   122 

•■    u 

|U   11.6 


^     A^  ,1.* 


[^tc)gFaphic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIM  STRUT 

WnSTM.N.Y.  MStO 

(716)  S72-4S03 


^A^ 


.»* 


.** 


184  ~^  PROGRESS   OF  AROllO  DISCOVERY. 


ardsou.  The  spirits  of  many  of  the  men,  whose  health 
had  suffered  greatly  for  want  of  warm  and  nourishing 
food,  now  brightened,  and  they  set  to  work  with  alac- 
rity to  prepare  for  their  return  journey.  The  boat  be- 
ing dragged  across,  was  brought  to  the  place  of  their 
former  station,  after  which  the  crew  went  back  four 
miles  for  their  baggage.  The  whole  was  safely  con- 
veyed over  before  the  evening,  when  the  water-casks 
were  broken  up  to  make  a  fire  to  warm  a  kettle  of 
cocoa,  the  second  hot  meal  they  had  had  for  nine  days. 

On  the  15th  of  August,  they  managed  to  make  their 
way  about  twenty  miles,  on  their  return  to  the  south- 
ward, through  a  breach  in  the  ice,  till  they  came  to 
open  water.  The  difficulties  of  the  river  were  doubled 
in  the  ascent,  from  having  to  proceed  against  the  stream. 
All  the  obstacles  of  rocks,  rapids,  sand-banks,  and  long 
portages  had  to  be  faced.  In  some  days  as  many  as 
sixteen  or  twenty  rapids  were  ascended.  They  found, 
as  they  proceeded,  that  many  of  the  deposits  of  pro- 
visions, on  which  they  relied,  had  been  discovered  and 
destroyed  by  wolves.  On  the  16tli  of  September,  they 
met  Mr.  McLeod  and  his  party,  who  had  been  several 
days  at  Sand  Hill  J^ay,  waiting  for  them.  On  the  24tl), 
they  reached  tiie  Ah-hel-dessy,  where  they  met  with 
some  Indians.  They  were  ultimately  stopped  by  one 
most  formidable  perpendicular  fall,  and  as  it  was  tbuiid 
impossible  to  convey  the  boat  further  over  so  rugged 
and  mountainous  a  country,  most  of  the  declivities  of 
which  were  coated  with  thin  ice,  and  the  whole  hidden 
by  snow,  it  was  here  abandoned,  and  the  party  pro- 
ceeded the  rest  of  the  journey  on  foot,  each  laden  with 
a  pack  of  about  75  lbs.  weight. 

l^ate  on  the  27th  of  September,  they  amved  at  their 
O'ld  habitation,  Fort  Reliance,  after  being  absent  nearly 
four  months,  wearied  indeed,  but  "  truly  grateful  for 
the  manifold  mercies  they  had  experienced  in  the 
course  of  their  long  and  perilous  journey."  Arrange- 
ments were  now  made  to  pass  the  winter  as  comfoita- 
bly  as  their  means  would  permit,  and  as  there  was  no 
probability  that  there  would  le  sufficient  food  in  the 


ge- 


CAPTAIN   back's   LAND  JOUKNEY. 


185 


)  ( 


house  for  the  consumption  of  the  whole  party,  all  ex- 
cept six  were  sent  with  Mr.  McLeod  to  the  fisheries. 
The  Indians  brought  them  provisions  from  time  to  time, 
and  their  friend  Akaitcho,  with  his  followers,  though 
not  very  successful  in  hunting,  was  not  wanting  in 
his  contributions.  This  old  chieftain  was,  however, 
no  longer  the  same  active  and  important  personage  he 
had  been  in  the  days  when  he  rendered  such  good 
service  to  Sir  John  Franklin.  Old  age  and  infirmities 
were  creeping  on  him  and  rendering  him  peevish  and 
fickle. 

On  the  2l8t  of  March  following,  having  left  direc- 
tions with  Dr.  King  to  proceed,  at  the  proper  season, 
to  the  Company's  factory  at  Hudson's  Bay,  to  embark 
for  England  in  their  spring  ships,  Captain  Back  set 
out  on  his  return  through  Canada,  calling  at  the  Fishe- 
ries to  bid  farewell  to  his  esteemed  friend,  Mr.  McLeod, 
and  arriving  at  the  Norway  House  on  the  24th,  where 
he  settled  and  arranged  the  accounts  due  for  stores, 
&c.,  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  He  proceeded 
thence  to  Kew  York,  embarked  for  England,  and  ar- 
rived at  Liverpool  on  the  8th  of  September,  after  an 
absence  of  two  years  and  a  half.  Back  was  honored 
with  an  audience  of  his  Majesty,  who  expressed  his  ap- 
probation of  his  efforts  —  first  in  the  cause  of  human- 
ity, and  next  in  that  of  geographical  and  scientific  re- 
search. He  has  since  been  knighted  ;  and  in  1835,  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  awarded  him  their  gold 
medal,  (the  Royal  premium,)  for  his  discovery  of  the 
Great  Fish  River,  and  navigating  it  to  the  sea  on  the 
arctic  coast. 

Dr.  King,  with  the  remainder  of  the  party,  (eight 
men,)  reached  England,  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's ship,  in  the  following  month,  October. 

Of  Captain  Back's  travels  it  has  been  justly  observed 
that  it  is  impossible  to  rise  from  the  perusal  of  them 
without  being  struck  with  astonishment  at  the  extent  of 
sufferings  which  the  human  frame  can  endure,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  wondrous  display  of  fortitude  which  was 
exhibited  under  circumstances  of  so  appalling  a  nature, 


186 


ri{t»GKES8   OF   Ali(TrJC   DISCO  VERY. 


as  to  invest  the  narrative  with  tlie  character  of  a  roman- 
tic liction,  rjither  than  an  iinexaggeratod  tale  of  actual 
reality.  lie,  however,  suffered  not  despair  nor  despon- 
dency to  overcome  him,  but  gallantly  and  undauntedly 
pursued  his  course,  until  he  returned  to  his  native  land 
to  add  to  tlie  number  of  those  noble  spirits  whose  names 
will  be  carried  to  posterity  as  the  brightest  ornaments 
to  the  country  which  gave  them  birth. 

Cafiain  Back's  Voyage  of  the  Terror. 

In  the  year  1836,  Captain  Back,  who  had  only  re- 
turned the  previous  autumn,  at  the  recommendation  of 
the  Geographical  Society,  undertook  a  voyage  in  the 
Terror  up  Hudson's  Strait. 

He  was  to  reach  Wager  River,  or  Kepulse  Bay,  and 
to  make  an  overland  journey,  to  exannne  the  bottom 
of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  sending  other  i:)arties  to  the 
north  and  west  to  examine  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and 
Ilecla,  and  to  reach,  if  possible,  Franklin's  Point  Turn- 
again. 

Leaving  England  on  the  14th  of  June,  he  arrived  on 
the  14th  of  August  at  Salisbury  Island,  and  proceeded 
np  the  Frozen  Strait ;  off  Cape  Comfort  the  ship  got 
frozen  in,  and  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  by  one  of 
those  frequent  convulsions,  the  vessel  was  drifted  right 
up  the  Frozen  Channel,  grinding  Itirge  heaps  that  op- 
posed her  progress  to  powder. 

Fi  cm  December  to  March  she  was  driven  about  by 
the  fuiy  of  the  storms  and  ice,  all  attempts  to  release 
her  being  utterly  powerless.  She  thus  floated  till  the 
10th  of  July,  and  for  three  days  w.as  on  her  beam-ends ; 
but  on  the  14th  she  suddenly  righted.  The  crazy  vessel 
with  her  gaping  wounds  was  scarcely  able  to  transport 
the  crew  across  the  stormy  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  but 
the  return  voyage  which  was  rendered  absolutely  neces- 
sary, was  fortunately  accomplished  safely. 

I  shall  now  give  a  concise  summary  of  Captain  Sir 
^  --    ^ «         .  •       t'vices,  so  as  to  present  it  more 


readily  to  the  reader: 


J 


DEA8E   AND  SIMPSON  8  mSOOVERUIS. 


187 


got 


op- 

ease 
the 
els; 
lessel 
)ort 
but 
3ces- 


In  1818  he  was  Admiralty  Mate  on  board  the  Trent, 
aiider  Franklin.  In  1819  he  again  accompanied  him 
on  his  first  overland  journey,  and  was  with  him  in  all 
those  perilous  sufferings  which  are  elsewhere  narrated. 
He  was  also  as  a  Lieutenant  with  Franklin  on  his  sec- 
ond journey  in  1825.  Having  been  in  the  interval  pro- 
moted to  the  rank  of  Commander,  he  proceeded,  in  1833, 
accompanied  by  Dr.  King  and  a  party,  through  North- 
ern America  to  the  Polar  Sea,  in  search  ot  Captain 
John  lloss.  He  was  posted  on  the  30th  of  September, 
1835,  and  appointed  in  the  following  year  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  Terror,  for  a  voyage  of  discovery  in  Hud- 
son's Bay.  . 

Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson's  Discoveries. 

In  183C  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  resolved  upon 
undertaking  the  completion  of  the  survey  of  the  north- 
ern coast  of  their  territories,  forming  the  shores  of 
Arctic  America,  and  small  portions  ct  which  were  letlb 
undetermined  between  the  discoveries  of  Caj)tains  Back 
and  Franklin. 

They  commissioned  to  this  task  two  of  their  officers, 
Mr.  Thomas  Simpson  and  Mr.  Peter  Warren  Dease,  who 
were  sent  out  with  a  party  of  twelve  men  from  the  com- 
pany's chief  fort,  with  proper  aid  and  appliances.  De- 
scending the  Mackenzie  to  the  sea,  they  reached  and 
surveyed  in  July,  1837,  the  remainder  of  the  western 
part  of  the  coast  left  unexamined  by  Franklin  in  1825, 
from  his  Keturn  Reef  to  Cape  Barrow,  where  the  Blos- 
som's boats  turned  back. 

Proceeding  on  from  Return  Reef  two  new  rivers 
were  discovered, —  the  Garry  and  the  Colville;  the 
latter  more  than  a  thousand  miles  in  length.  Although 
it  was  the  height  of  summer,  the  ground  was  found 
frozen  several  inches  below  the  surface,  the  spray  froze 
on  the  oars  and  rigging  of  their  boats,  and  the  ice  lay 
smooth  and  solid  in  the  bays,  as  in  the  depth  of  winter. 

On  the  4th  of  August,  having  left  the  boats  and  pro- 
ceeded on  by  land,  Mr.  Simpson  arrived  at  Elson  Bay, 


188 


PROGRESS  OP  iURCTIO  DISCO^'ERT. 


which  point  Lieutenant  Elson  had  reached  in  the  Bios* 
eom's  barge  in  1826. 

The  party  now  returned  to  winter  at  Fort  Confidence, 
on  Great  13ear  Lake,  whence  they  were  instructed  to 
prosecute  their  search  to  the  eastward  next  season,  and 
to  communicate  if  possible  with  Sir  George  Back's 
expedition. 

They  left  their  winter  quarters  on  the  6th  of  June, 
1838,  and  descended  Dease's  Eiver.  They  found  the 
Coppermine  River  much  swollen  by  floods,  and  encum- 
bered with  masses  of  floating  ice.  The  rapids  they  had 
to  pass  were  very  perilous,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the 
following  graphic  description: — 

"We  had  to  pull  for  our  lives  to  keep  out  of  the  suc- 
tion of  the  precipices,  along  whose  base  the  breakers 
raged  and  foamed  with  overwhelming  fury.  Shortly 
before  noon,  we  came  in  sight  of  Escape  Rapid  of 
Franklin ;  and  a  glance  at  the  overhanging  cliff  told  us 
that  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  run  down  with  a 
fidl  cargo.  In  an  instant,"  continues  Mr.  Simpson, "  we 
were  in  the  vortex ;  and  before  we  were  aware,  my  boat 
was  borne  toward  an  isolated  rock,  which  the  boiling 
surge  almost  concealed.  To  clear  it  on  the  outside  was 
no  longer  possible ;  our  only  chance  of  safety  was  to 
run  between  it  and  the  lofty  eastern  cliff.  The  word 
was  passed,  and  every  breath  was  hushed.  A  stream 
which  dashed  down  upon  us  over  the  brow  of  the  preei 
pice  more  than  a  hundred  feet  in  height,  mingled  with 
the  spray  that  whirled  upward  from  the  rapid,  forming 
a  terrific  shower-bath.  The  pass  was  about  eight  feet 
wide,  and  the  error  of  a  single  foot  on  either  side  would 
have  been  instant  destruction.  As,  guided  by  Sinclair's 
consummate '  skill,  the  boat  shot  safely  through  those 
jaws  of  death,  an  involuntary  cheer  arose.  Our  next 
impulse  was  to  turn  round  to  view  the  fate  of  our  com- 
rades behind.  They  had  profited  by  the  peril  we  in- 
curred, and  kept  without  the  treacherous  rock  in  time." 

On  the  1st  of  July  they  reached  the  sea,  and  en- 
camped at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where  they  waited 
for  the  opening  of  the  ice  till  the  17th.    They  doubled 


DEA8E  AND  SIMPSON'S  DISCOVERIES. 


189 


Cape  Barrow,  one  of  the  northern  points  of  Bathurst's 
Inlet,  on  the  29th,  but  were  prevented  crossing  the  inlet, 
by  the  continuity  of  the  ice,  and  obliged  to  make  a 
circuit  of  nearly  160  miles  by  Arctic  Sound. 

Some  very  pure  specimens  of  copper  ore  were  found 
on  one  of  the  Barry  Islands.  After  doubling  Cape 
Flinders  on  the  9th  of  August,  the  boats  were  arrested 
by  the  ice  in  a  little  bay  to  which  the  name  of  Boat 
Haven  was  given,  situate  about  three  miles  from  Frank- 
lin's farthest.  Here  the  boats  lingered  for  the  best 
part  of  a  month,  in  utter  hopelessness.  Mr.  Simpson 
pushed  on  therefore  on  the  20th,  with  an  exploring  party 
of  seven  men,  provisioned  for  ten  days.  On  the  first 
day  they  passed  Point  Turnagain,  the  limit  of  Frank- 
lin's survey  in  1821.  On  the  23d  they  had  reached  an 
elevated  cape,  with  land  apparently  closing  all  round 
to  the  northward,  so  that  it  was  feared  they  had  only 
been  traversing  the  coast  of  a  huge  bay.  But  the 
perseverance  of  the  adventurous  explorer  was  fully  re- 
warded. 

"With  bitter  disappointment,"  writes  Mr.  Simpson, 
"  I  ascended  the  height,  from  whence  a  vast  and  splen- 
did prospect  burst  suddenly  upon  me.  The  sea,  as  if 
transformed  by  enchantment,  rolled  its  fierce  waves  at 
my  feet,  and  beyond  the  reach  of  vision  to  the  eastward. 
Islands  of  various  shape  and  size  overspread  its  surface ; 
and  the  northern  land  terminated  to  the  eye  in  a  bold 
and  lofty  cape,  bearing  east  northeast,  thirty  or  forty- 
miles  distant,  while  the  continental  coast  trended  away 
southeast.  I  stood,  in  fact,  on  a  remarkable  headland, 
at  the  eastern  outlet  of  an  ice-obstructed  strait.  On  the 
extensive  land  to  the  northward  I  bestowed  the  name 
of  our  most  gracious  sovereign  Queen  Victoria.  Its 
eastern  visible  extremity  I  called  Cape  Pelly,  in  com- 
pliment to  the  governor  of  Hudson's  Bay  Company." 

Having  reached  the  limits  which  prudence,  dictated 
in  the  face  of  the  long  journey  back  to  the  boats,  many 
of  his  men  too  being  lame,  Mr.  Simpson  retraced  his 
steps,  and  the  party  reached  Boat-haven  on  the  20th  of 
August,  having  traced  neai'ly  140  miles  of  new  coast. 


IDO 


PB00RES9   OP  AKCTIO   W8C0VERT. 


The  boats  were  cut  out  of  their  icy  prison,  and  com 
nienced  their  re-ascent  of  the  Coppermine  on  the  3d  oi 
September.  At  its  junction  witli  the  Kendal  River  tiiey 
left  their  boats,  and  shouldering  their  packs,  traversed 
the  barren  grounds,  and  arrived  at  their  residence  on 
the  lake  by  the  14th  of  September. 

The  following  season  these  persevering  exi^lorcrs  com- 
menced their  third  voyage.  Thcv  readied  the  Bloody 
Fall  on  the  22d  of  June,  1839,  and  occupied  themselves 
for  a  week  in  carefully  examining  Richardson's  River, 
which  was  discovered  in  the  previous  year,  and  dis- 
charges itself  in  the  head  of  Rack's  Inlet.  On  the  3d 
of  July  they  reached  Cape  Barrow,  and  from  its  rocky 
heights  were  surprised  to  observe  Coronation  Gulf 
almost  clear  of  ice,  while  on  their  former  visit  it  could 
have  been  crossed  on  foot. 

They  were  at  Cape  Franklin  a  month  earlier  tlian 
Mr.  Simpson  reached  it  on  foot  the  j^revious  year,  and 
doubled  Cape  Alexander,  the  northernmost  cjipe  in  tliis 
quarter,  on  the  28th  of  July,  after  encountering  a  vio- 
lent gale.  They  coasted  the  huge  buy  extending  foi* 
about  nine  degrees  eastward  from  this  point,  being  fa- 
vored with  clear  weather,  and  protectee!  by  tlie  various 
islands  they  met  from  the  crushing  state  of  the  ioe 
drifted  from  seaward. 

On  the  10th  of  August  they  opened  a  strait  about 
ten  miles  wide  at  each  extremity,  but  narrowing  to  four 
or  five  miles  in  the  center.  This  strait,  which  divides 
the  main-land  from  Boothia,  has  been  called  Simjpson's 
Strait. 

On  the  13th  of  August  they  had  passed  Richardson's 
Point  and  doubled  Point  Ogle,  the  furthest  point  of 
Back's  journey  in  1S34. 

By  the  16th  they  had  reached  Montreal  Island  in 
Back's  Estuary,  where  they  found  a  deposit  of  pro- 
visions which  Captain  Back  had  left  there  that  day  live 
years.  The  pemmican  was  unfit  for  use,  but  out  of 
several  pounds  of  chocolate  half  decayed  the  men  con- 
trived to  pick  sufficient  to  make  a  kettleful  acceptable 
drink  in  honor  of  the  occasrion.    There  were  also  a  tin 


DEASE  AND  SIMPSON's  DISCOVERIES. 


191 


;  of 


case  and  a  few  fish-liooks,  of  which,  observes  Mr. 
Simpson, "  Mr.  Deasc  and  I  took  possession,  as  memo- 
rials of  our  haviiifif  breakfasted  on  tlie  very  spot  wiiero 
the  tent  of  our  gallant,  though  less  successful  precursor 
Btuod  that  very  day  live  years  before. 

By  the  20th  of  August  they  had  reached  as  far  as 
Aberdeen  Island  to  the  eastward,  from  which  they  had 
a  view  of  an  apparently  large  gulf,  corresponding  with 
that  which  had  been  so  correctly  described  to  Parry  by 
the  intelligent  Esquimaux  female  as  Akkolee. 

From  a  mountamous  ridge  about  three  miles  inland 
a  view  of  la'ud  in  the  northeast  was  obtained  supposed 
to  be  one  of  the  southern  promontories  of  Boothia. 
High  and  distant  islands  stretching  from  E.  to  E.  N.  E. 
(probably  some  in  Committee  Bay)  were  seen,  and  two 
considerable  ones  were  noted  far  out  in  the  otiing. 
Remembering  the  length  and  difficulty  of  their  return 
route,  the  explorers  now  retraced  their  steps.  On  their 
return  voyage  they  traced  sixty  miles  of  the  south  coast 
of  Boothia,  where  at  one  time  they  were  not  more  than 
ninety  miles  from  the  site  of  the  magnetic  pole,  as  de- 
termined by  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross.  On  tlie  25th 
of  August  they  erected  a  high  cairn  at  their  farthest 
point,  near  Cape  Ilerschel. 

About  150  miles  of  the  high,  bold  shores  of  Victoria 
Land,  as  far  as  Cape  Parry,  were  also  examined; 
Wellington,  Cambridge,  and  Byron  Bays  being  sur- 
veyed and  accurately  laid  down.  They  then  stretched 
across  Coronation  Gulf,  and  re-entered  the  Copper- 
mine River  on  the  16th  of  September. 

Abandoning  here  one  of  their  boats,  with  the  re- 
mains of  their  useless  stores  and  other  articles  not 
required,  they  ascended  the  river  and  reached  Fort 
Confidence  on  the  24th  of  September,  after  one  of  the 
longest  and  most  successful  boat  voyages  ever  per- 
formed on  the  Polar  Sea,  having  traversed  more  than 
1600  miles  of  sea. 

In  1838,  before  the  intelligence  of  this  last  trip 
had  been  received,  Mr.  Simpson  was  presented  by 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London  with  the 


I    I 


Hi 


'l-    ' 


X, 


192 


PBOORESS   OF  AKCrnO  DISCOVERY. 


Founder's  Gold  Medal,  for  discovering  and  tracing  in 
1837  and  1838  about  300  miles  of  the  arctic  shores: 
but  the  voyage  which  I  have  just  recorded  has  added 
greatly  to  the  laurels  which  he  and  his  bold  compan- 
ions have  achieved. 

Dr.  John  Eae's  Land  Expedition,  1846-47. 

Although  a  little  out  of  its  chronological  order,  I 
give  Dr.  Rae's  exploring  trip  before  I  proceed  to  no- 
tice Franklin's  last  voyage,  and  the  diiferent  relief 
expeditions  that  have  been  sent  out  during  the  past 
two  years. 

In  1846  the  Hudson's  Company  dispatched  an  ex- 
pedition of  thirteen  persons,  under  the  command  of 
Dr.  John  Rae,  for  the  purpose  of  surveying  the  unex- 
plored portion  of  the  arctic  coast  at  the  northeastern 
angle  of  the  American  continent  between  Dease  and 
Simpson's  farthest,  and  the  Strait  of  the  Fury  and 
Hecla. 

The  expedition  left  Fort  Churchill,  in  Hudson's 
Bay,  on  the  5th  of  July,  1846,  and  returned  in  safety 
to  York  Factory  on  the  6th  September  in  the  follow- 
ing year,  after  having,  by  traveling  over  ice  and  snow 
in  the  spring,  traced  the  coast  all  the  way  from  the 
Lord  Mayor's  Bay  of  Sir  John  Ross  to  within  eight 
or  ten  miles  of  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  thus  prov- 
ing that  eminent  navigator  to  have  been  con-ect  in 
stating  Boothia  to  be  a  peninsula. 

On  the  16th  of  July  the  boats  first  fell  in  with  the 
ice,  about  ten  miles  north  of  Cape  FuUerton,  and  it 
was  so  heavy  and  closely  packed  that  they  were 
obliged  to  take  shelter  in  a  deep  and  narrow  inlet 
that  opportunely  presented  itself,  where  they  were 
closed  up  two  days. 

On  the  22d  the  party  reached  the  most  southerly 
opening  of  Wager  Kiver  or  Bay,  but  were  detained 
the  whole  day  by  the  immense  quantities  of  heavy  ice 
driving  in  and  out  with  the  flood  and  ebb  of  the  tide, 
which  ran  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  forcing  up 


DR.  JOHN   RAe's  land  EXrEDITlON. 


193 


}t  m 


ko"  up 


the  ice  and  grinding  it  against  the  rocks  with  a  noise 
like  thundor.  (Jn  the  night  of  the  24th  the  boats 
anchored  at  the  head  of  the  Repulse  Bay.  The  follow- 
ing day  they  anchored  in  Gibson's  Cove,  on  the  banks 
of  which  they  met  with  a  small  party  of  Esquimaux  ; 
several  of  the  women  wore  beacls  round  their  wrists, 
which  thev  had  obtained  from  Captain  Parry's  ship 
when  at  Igloolik  and  Winter  Island.  But  they  had 
neither  heard  nor  seen  anything  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

Learning  from  a  chart  drawn  by  one  of  the  natives, 
that  the  isthmus  of  Melvill'j  peninsula  was  only  about 
forty  miles  across,  and  that  of  this,  owing  to  a  number 
of  large  lakes,  but  five  miles  of  land  would  have  to  be 
passed  over.  Dr.  Rae  determined  to  make  his  way 
over  this  neck  in  preference  to.  proceeding  by  Fox's 
Channel  through  the  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait. 

•  One  boat  was  therefore  laid  up  with  her  cargo  in 
security,  and  with  the  other  the  party  set  out,  assisted 
by  three  Esquimaux.  After  traversing  several  large 
lakes,  and  crossing  over  six  "  portages,"  on  the  2d  of 
August  they  got  into  the  salt  water,  in  Committee 
Bay,  but  being  able  to  make  but  little  progress  to  the 
northwest,  in  consequence  of  heavy  gales  and  closely 
packed  ice,  he  returned  to  his  starting  point,  and  made 
preparations  for  wintering,  it  being  found  impossible 
to  proceed  with  the  survey  at  that  time.  The  other 
boat  was  brought  across  the  isthmus,  and  all  hands 
were  set  to  work  in  making  preparations  for  a  long 
and  cold  winter. 

As  no  wood  was  to  be  had,  stones  were  collected  to 
build  a  house,  which  was  finished  by  the  2d  of  Sep- 
tember. Its  dimensions  were  twenty  feet  by  fourteen, 
and  about  eight  feet  high.  The  roof  was  formed  of 
oil-cloths  and  morse-skin  coverings,  the  masts  and 
oars  of  the  boats  serving  as  rafters,  while  the  door 
was  made  of  parchment  skins  stretched  over  a  wooden 
frame. 

The  deer  had  already  commenced  migrating  south- 
ward, but  whenever  he  had  leisure,  Dr.  Rae  shoul- 
dered his  rifle,  and  had  frequently  good  success,  shoot- 

9 


194: 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Vff 


ing  on  one  day  seven  deer  within  two  miles  of  their 
encampment. 

On  the  16th  of  October,  the  thermometer  fell  to 
zero,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  reindeer  had  passed ; 
but  the  party  liad  by  this  time  shot  130,  and  during 
the  remainder  of  October,  and  in  November,  thirty- 
two  more  were  kilied,  so  that  with  200  partridges  and 
a  few  salmon,  their  snow-built  larder  was  pretty  well 
stocked. 

Sufficient  fuel  had  been  collected  to  last,  with  econ- 
omy, for  cooking,  until  the  spring ;  and  a  couple  of 
seals  which  had  been  shot  produced  oil  enough  for 
their  lamps.  By  nets  set  in  the  lakes  under  the  ice,  a 
few  salmon  were  also  caught. 

After  passing  a  very  stormy  winter,  with  the  tem- 
perature occasionally  47°  below  freezing  point,  and 
often  an  allowance  of  but  one  meal  a  day,  toward  the 
end  of  February  preparations  for  resuming  their  sur- 
veys in  the  spring  were  made.  Sleds,  similar  to  those 
used  by  the  natives,  were  constructed.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  March  the  reindeer  began  to  migrate  north- 
ward, but  were  very  shy.  One  was  shot  on  the  11th. 
Dr.  Rae  set  out  on  the  5th  of  April,  in  company 
with  three  men  and  two  Esquimaux  as  interpreters, 
their  provisions  and  bedding  being  drawn  on  sleds  by 
four  dogs.  Nothing  worthy  of  notice  occurs  in  this 
exploratory  trip,  till  on  the  18th  Ilae  came  in  sight  of 
Lord  Mayor's  Bay,  and  the  group  of  islands  with  which 
it  is  studded.  The  isthmus  which  connects  the  land 
to  the  northward  with  Boothia,  he  found  to  be  only  about 
a  mile  broad.  On  their  return  the  party  fortunately  fell 
in  with  four  Esquimaux,  from  whom  they  obtained  a 
quantity  of  seal's  blubber  for  fuel  and  dog's  food,  and 
some  of  the  flesh  and  blood  for  their  own  use,  enough 
to  maintain  them  for  six  days  on  half  allowance. 

All  the  party  were  more  or  less  affected  with  snow 
blindness,  but  arrived  al  their  winter  quarters  in  Re- 
pulse Bay  on  the  5th  of  May,  all  safe  and  well,  but  as 
black  as  negroes,  from  the  combined  effects  of  frost- 
bites and  oil  smoke. 


DE.  JOHN   EAE'S  LAND   EXPEDITION. 


195 


again 


On  the  evening  of  the  13th  May,  Dr.  Rae 
started  with  a  chosen  party  of  four  men,  to  trace  the 
west  shore  of  Melville  peninsula.     Each  of  the  men 
carried  about  70  lbs.  weight. 

Being  unable  to  obtain  a  drop  of  water  of  nature's 
thawing,  and  fuel  being  rather  a  scarce  article,  they 
Were  obliged  to  take  small  kettles  of  snow  under  the 
blankets  with  them,  to  thaw  by  the  heat  of  the  body. 

Having  reached  to  about  69°  42'  :N".  lat.,  and  85°  8' 
long.,  and  their  provisions  being  nearly  exhausted, 
they  were  obliged,  much  to  their  disappointment,  to 
turn  back,  when  only  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Hecla 
and  Fury  Strait.  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  30th 
of  May,  the  party  arrived  at  their  snow  hut  on  Cape 
Thomas  Simpson.  The  men  they  had  left  there  were 
well,  but  very  thin,  as  they  had  neither  caught  nor 
shot  any  thing  eatable,  except  two  marmots,  and  they 
were  preparing  to  cook  a  piece  of  parchment  skin  for 
their  supper. 

"  Our  journey,"  says  Dr.  Eae,  "  hitherto  had  been 
the  most  fatiguing  I  had  ever  experienced ;  the  severe 
exercise,  with  a  limited  allowance  of  food,  had  reduced 
the  whole  party  very  much.  However,  we  marched 
merrily  on,  tightening  our  belts  —  mine  came  in  six 
inches  —  the  men  vowing  that  when  they  got  on  full 
allowance,  they  would  make  up  for  lost  time." 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  June,  they  arrived  at 
their  encampment  in  Repulse  Bay,  after  being  absent 
twenty-seven  days.  The  whole  party  then  set  actively 
to  work  procuring  food,  collecting  fuel,  and  preparing 
the  boats  for  sea ;  and  the  ice  in  the  bay  having  broken 
up  on  the  11th  of  August,  on  the  12tli  they  left  their 
winter  quarters,  and  after  encountering  head  winds 
and  stormy  weather,  reached  Churchill  River  on  the 
31st  of  August. 

A  gratuity  of  400Z.  was  awarded  to  Mr.  Rae,  by  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  for  the  important  services  he 
had  thus  rendered  to  the  cause  of  science. 


I  i 
1 


196 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Captain  Sir  John  Franklin's  Last  Expedition* 
'  1845-51.  -  , 

That  Sir  John  Franklin,  now  nearly  six  years  a"b- 
sent,  is  alive,  we  dare  not  affirm ;  but  that  his  ships 
bIiouIcI  be  so  utterly  annihilated  that  no  trace  of  them 
can  be  discovered,  or  if  they  have  been  so  entirely 
lost,  that  not  a  single  life  should  have  been  saved  to 
relate  the  disaster,  and  that  no  traces  of  the  crew  or 
vessels  should  have  been  met  with  by  the  Esquimaux, 
or  the  exploring  parties  who  have  visited  and  investi- 
gated those  coasts,  and  bays,  and  inlets  to  so  consid- 
erable an  extent,  is  a  most  extraordinary  circumstance. 
It  is  the  general  belief  of  those  officers  who  have 
served  in  the  former  arctic  expeditions,  that  whatever 
accident  may  have  befallen  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
they  cannot  wholly  have  disappeared  from  those  seas, 
and  that  some  traces  of  their  fate,  if  not  some  living 
remnant  of  their  crews,  must  eventually  reward  the 
search  of  the  diligent  investigator.  It  is  possible  that 
they  may  be  found  in  quarters  the  least  expected. 
Tliere  is  still  reason,  then,  for  liope^  and  for  the  great 
and  honorable  exertions  which  that  divine  spark  in 
the  soul  has  prompted  and  still  keeps  alive. 

"There  is  something,"  says  the  Athenaeum,  "in- 
tensely interesting  in  the  picture  of  those  dreary  seas 
amid  whose  strange  and  unspeakable  solitudes  our  lost 
countrymen  are,  or  have  been,  somewhere  imprisoned 
for  so  many  years,  swarming  with  the  human  life  that 
is  risked  to  set  them  free.  No  haunt  was  ever  so  ex- 
citing—  so  full  of  a  wild  grandeur  and  a  profound 
patlios  —  as  that  which  had  just  aroused  the  arctic 
echoes  ;  that  wherein  their  brothers  and  companions 
have  been  beating  for  the  track  by  wliicli  they  may 
rescue  the  lost  mariners  from  the  icy  grasp  of  the  Ge- 
nius of  the  North.  Fancy  these  men  in  their  adaman 
tine  prison,  wherever  it  may  be,  —  chained  up  by  tlia 
polar  spirit  whom  they  had  dared,  —  lingering  through 
years  of  cold  and  darkness  on  the  stinted  ration  that 
scarcely  feeds   the   blood,  and   the  feeble   hope   that 


TRANKLIN  S   LAST   liXPEDITION. 


197 


scarcely  sustains  the  heart,  —  and  then  ima2;ine  the  rush 
of  emotions  to  greet  the  first  cry  from  that  wild  hunting 
ground  which  should  reach  their  ears!     Through  many 
summers   has  that   cry  been  listened   for,  no  doubt. 
Something  like  an  expectation  of  the  rescue  which  it 
sliould  announce  has  revived  with  each  returning  sea- 
son of  comparative  light,  to  die  of  its  own  baffled  in- 
tensity as  the  long  dark  months  once  more  settled  down 
upon  their  dreary  prison-house.  —  There  is  scarcely  a 
doubt   that   the  track  being  now  struck,  these  long- 
pining  hearts  may  be  traced  to  their  lair.     But  what  to 
tlie  anxious  questioning  which  has  year  by  year  gone 
forth  in  search  of  their  fate,  will  be  the  answer  now 
revealed  ?     The  trail  is  found,  —  but  what  of  the  weary 
feet  that  made  it?     We  are  not  willing  needlessly  to 
alarm  the  public  sympathies,  which  liave  been  so  gene- 
rously stirred  on  behalf  of  the  missing  men,  —  but  we 
are  bound  to  warn  our  readers  against  too  sano-uine  an 
entertainment  of  the  hope  which  the  first  tidings  of  the 
recent  discovery  is  calculated  to  suggest.     It  is  scarcely 
possible  that  the  provisions  which  are  sufficient  for  three 
years,  and   adaptable  for  four,  can   by  any  economy 
which  implies  less  than  starvation  have  been  spread 
over  five,  —  and  scarcely  probable  that  they  can  have 
been  made  to  do  so  by  the  help  of  any  accidents  which 
the  j)lacc  of  confinement  supplied.     We  cannot  hear  of 
this  sudden  discovery  of  traces  of  the  vanished  crews  as 
living  men,  w^ithout  a  wish  which  comes  like  a  pang 
that  it  had  been  two  years  ago  —  or  oven  last  year.     It 
makes  the  heart  sore  to  think  how  close  relief  may  have 
been  to  their  hiding-place  in  former  years  —  when  it 
turned  away.     There  is  scarcely  reason  to  doubt  that 
had  the  present  circumstances  of  the  search  occurred 
two  years   ago  —  last  year  perhaps  —  the  wanderers 
would   have  been   restored.     Another  year  makes   a 
frightful  difference  in  the  odds  :  —  and  we  do  not  think 
tlie  public  will  ever  feel  satisfied  with  w^hat  has  been 
(lone  in  this  matter  if  the  oracle  so  long  questioned,  and 
silent  80  long,  sliall  speak  at  last  —  and  the  answer  shall 
be,  '  It  is  too  late.'  " 


i  I    I 


liii 


in 


a'Uig,;»i'a:g 


-^f^r^Wn'tjicwiiias 


5^^ 


198 


rR00I4ESS    OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


In  the  prosecution  of  the  noble  enterprise  on  which 
all  eyes  are  now  turned,  it  is  not  merely  scientific  re- 
search and  geographical  discovery  that  are  at  present 
occupying  the  attention  of  the  commanders  of  vessels 
sent  out ;  the  lives  of  human  beings  are  at  stake,  and 
above  all,  the  lives  of  men  who  have  nobly  periled 
every  thing  in  the  cause  of  national  —  nay,  of  universal 
progress  and  knowledge  ;  —  of  men  who  have  evinced 
on  this  and  other  expeditions  the  most  dauntless  bra- 
very that  any  men  can  evince.  "Who  can  think  of  the 
probable  fate  of  these  gallant  adventurers  without  a 
shudder  ? 

Alas !  how  truthfully  has  Montgomery  depicted  the 
fatal  imprisonment  of  vessels  in  these  regions  :  — 

There  lies  a  vessel  in  that  realm  of  frost, 
Not  wrecked,  not  stranded,  yet  forever  lost ; 
Its  keel  embedded  in  the  solid  mass  ; 
Its  glistening  sails  appear  expanded  glass ; 
The  transvei-se  ropes  with  pearls  enormous  struDg^ 
The  yards  with  icicles  grotesquely  hung. 
Wrajjt  in  the  topmast  shrouds  there  rests  a  boy. 
His  old  sea-faring  father's  only  joy  ; 
Sprung  from  a  race  of  rovers,  ocean  bom, 
Nursed  at  the  helm,  '^e  trod  dry  land  with  scorn , 
Through  fouracore  years  from  port  to  port  he  veer'd ; 
Quicksand,  nor  rock,  nor  foe,  nor  tempest  fear'd ; 
Now  cast  ashore,  though  like  a  hulk  he  lie. 
His  son  at  sea  is  ever  in  his  eye. 
He  ne'er  shall  know  in  his  Northumbrian  cot. 
How  brief  that  son's  career,  how  strange  his  lot ; 
Writhed  round  the  mast,  aud  sepulchred  in  air. 
Him  shall  no  worm  devour,  no  vulture  tear ; 
Congeal'd  to  adamant  his  frame  shall  last. 
Though  empires  change,  till  tide  and  time  be  past 
Morn  shall  return,  and  noon,  and  eve,  and  night 
Meet  here  with  interclianging  shade  and  light ; 
Eut  from  that  barque  no  timber  shall  decay, 
Of  these  cold  forms  no  feature  pass  away ; 
Perennial  ice  around  th'  encrusted  bow. 
The  peopled-deck,  and  full-rigg'd  mast  shall  grow 
Till  from  the  sun  liimself  the  whole  be  hid, 
Or  spied  beneath  a  crystal  pyramid : 
As  in  pure  amber  witli  divergent  lines, 
A  rugged  shell  embossed  with  sea-weed,  shines. 
From  age  to  age  increased  witli  annual  snow, 
Tliis  now  Mont  Blanc  among  the  clouds  may  glow. 
Whose  conic  peak  that  earliest  greets  the  dawn. 
And  latest  from  the  sun's  shut  eye  withdrawn. 


FKANKLIM  S   LAST   KXPEDITION. 


199 


Slmll  fioin  the  2Senit1i,  tnroiigh  incumbent  gloom, 
Bmn  like  a  lamp  upon  this  naval  tomb. 
IJut  when  th'  archangel's  trumpet  sounds  on  high, 
The  pile  hIiuU  burst  to  atoms  through  the  sky, 
And  leave  its  dead,  upstiirting  at  the  call, 
Naked  and  pale,  before  tlio  Judge  of  all. 

All  who  rend  these  pages  will,  I  am  sure,  feel  the 
deepest  sympathy  and  admiration  of  the  zeal,  persever- 
ance, and  conjugal  aifection  displayed  in  the  noble  and 
untiring  efforts  of  Lady  Franklin  to  relieve  or  to  dis- 
cover the  fate  of  her  distinguished  husband  and  the  gal- 
lant party  under  his  command,  despite  the  difficulties, 
disappointments,  and  heart-sickening  "hope  deferred" 
with  which  these  efforts  have  been  attended.  All  men 
must  feel  a  lively  interest  in  the  fate  cf  these  bold  men, 
and  be  most  desirous  to  contribute  toward  their  resto- 
ration to  their  country  and  their  homes.  The  name  of 
the  present  Lady  Franklin  is  as  "familiar  as  a  house- 
hold word  "  in  every  bosom  in  England  ;  she  is  alike 
the  object  of  our  admiration,  our  sympathy,  our  hopes, 
and  our  prayers.  Nay,  her  name  and  that  of  her  hus- 
band is  breathed  in  prayer  in  many  lands — and,  oh! 
how  earnest,  how  zealous,  how  courageous,  have  been 
her  efforts  to  find  and  relieve  her  husband,  for,  like 
Desdemona, 

"  She  loved  him  for  the  dangers  he  had  passed, 
And  he  loved  her  that  she  did  pity  them." 

IIow  has  she  traversed  from  port  to  port,  bidding  "  God 
speed  their  mission "  to  each  public  and  private  sliip 
going  forth  on  the  noble  errand  of  mercy  —  how  freely 
and  promptly  has  she  contributed  to  their  comforts. 
How  has  she  watched  each  arrival  from  the  north, 
scanned  each  stray  paragraph  of  news,  hurried  to  the 
Admiralty  on  each  rumor,  and  kept  up  with  unremit- 
ting labor  a  voluminous  correspondence  with  all  the 
quarters  of  the  globe,  fondly  wishing  that  she  had  the 
wings  of  the  dove,  that  she  might  flee  away,  and  be 
with  him  from  whom  Heaven  has  seen  fit  to  separate 
her  so  long. 

An  American  poet  well  depicts  her  sentiments  in  the 
foJV)wing  lines : — 


I    I 


1 .1 


200 


riiOOKliSS   OF   AliCTIO   DISCOVKKY. 


LADY  FRANKLIN'S  APPEAL  TO  THE  NORTH.. 

Oh,  •where,  my  long  lost-one !  art  thou, 
'Mid  Arctic  hcus  and  wintry  skies  ? 

Deep,  Polar  night  is  on  me  now. 
And  Hope,  long  wrecked,  but  mocks  my  cn6l 

I  am  like  thee  I  from  frozen  plaina 
In  the  drear  zone  and  snnlcss  air, 

My  dying,  lonely  heart  complains. 

And  chills  in  sorrow  and  despair. 

"  .'it 

Tell  me,  ye  Northern  winds !  that  sweep 

Down  from  the  rayless,  dusky  day  — 
Where  ye  have  borne,  and  where  ye  keep, 

My  well-beloved  within  your  sway ; 
Tell  me,  when  next  ye  wildly  bear 

The  icy  message  in  your  breath. 
Of  my  beloved  I     Oh  tell  me  where 

Ye  keep  him  on  the  shores  of  death. 

Tell  me,  ye  Polar  seas  I  that  roll 

From  ice-bound  shore  to  sunny  i.slo  — 
Tell  me,  when  next  ye  leave  the  Pole, 

Where  ye  hav<>  chained  my  lord  the  while  I 
On  the  bleak  Northern  cliflf  I  wait 

With  tear-pained  eyes  to  see  ye  come  1 
Will  ye  not  tell  me,  ere  too  late  ? 

Or  will  ye  mock  while  I  am  dumb  ? 

Tell  me,  oh  tell  me,  mount^iin  waves ! 

Whence  have  ye  leaped  and  sprung  to-day  f 
Have  ye  passed  o'er  their  sleeping  graves 

That  ye  rush  wildly  on  your  way  ? 
Will  ye  sweep  on  and  bear  me  too 

Down  to  the  caves  within  the  deep  ? 
Oh,  bring  sonic  token  to  my  view 

That  ye  my  loved  one  safe  will  keep  I 

Canst  thou  not  tell  me,  Polar  Star  I 

Where  in  the  frozen  Avasto  he  kneels? 
And  on  the  icv  plains  afar 

His  love  to  God  and  nie  reveals? 
Wilt  thou  not  send  one  brighter  ray 

To  my  lone  heart  and  aching  eye? 
Wilt  thou  not  turn  my  night  to  day, 

And  wake  my  spirit  ere  I  die  ? 

Tell  me,  oh  dreary  North  !  for  now 

My  soul  is  like  thine  Arctic  zone ; 
Beneath  the  darkened  .skies  I  bow, 

Or  ride  the  .stormy  sea  .ilone  1 
Tell  me  of  my  beloved  !  for  I 

Know  not  a  ray  Tny  lord  without  I 


Oh,  tell  niu.  that  1  ni'av  not  d 


10 


A  sorrower  on  the  sea  of  doubt  f 


FKANKLIN  S   LAST   EXPEDITION. 


201 


In  the  early  part  of  1849,  Sir  E.  Parry  stated,  that 
in  ottering  his  opinions,  he  did  so  under  a  deep  sense 
of  tiie  anxious  and  even  painful  responsibility,  both  as 
regarded  the  risk  of  life,  as  well  as  the  inferior  consid- 
eration of  expense  involved  in  further  attem^^ts  to  res- 
cue our  gallant  countrymen,  or  at  least  the  surviving 
jiortion  of  them,  from  their  perilous  position. 

But  it  was  his  deliberate  conviction,  that  the  time 
had  not  yet  arrived  when  the  attempt  ought  to  be  given 
up  as  hopeless  :  the  further  efforts  making  might  also 
be  the  moans  of  determining  their  fate,  and  whether  it 
pleased  God  to  give  success  to  those  efforts  or  not,  tlio 
Lords  of  the  A<lmiralty,  and  the  country  at  large,  would 
hereafter  be  better  satisfied  to  have  followed  up  tlie 
noble  attempts  already  made,  so  long  as  the  most  dis- 
tant hope  remains  of  ultimate  success. 

In  the  absence  of  authentic  information  of  the  fate 
of  the  gallant  band  of  adventurers,  it  has  been  well 
observed,  the  terra  Incognita  of  the  northern  coast  of 
Arctic  America,  will  not  only  be  traced,  but  minutely 
surveyed,  and  the  solution  of  the  problem  of  centuries 
will  engage  the  marked  attention  of  tiie  House  of  Com- 
mons, and  the  legislative  assemblies  of  other  parts  of 
the  world.  The  problem  is  very  safe  in  their  hands,  so 
safe  indeed  that  two  years  will  not  elapse  before  it  is 
solved. 

The  intense  anxiety  and  apprehension  now  so  gener- 
ally entertained  for  the  safety  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 
and  the  crews  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  under  his  com- 
mand, who,  if  still  in  existence,  are  now  passing  through 
the  severe  ordeal  of  a  fifth  winter,  in  those  inclement 
regions,  imperatively  call  for  every  available  effort  to 
be  made  for  their  rescue  from  a  position  so  perilous  ; 
and  as  long  as  one  possible  avenue  to  that  position  re- 
mains unsearched,  the  country  will  not  feel  satisfied 
that  every  thing  has  been  done,  which  perseverance 
and  experience  can  accomplish,  to  dispel  the  mystery 
which  at  present  surrounds  their  fate. 

Capt.  Sir  James  Ross  having  returned  successful  from 
^is  antarctic  expedition  in  the  close  of  the  preceding 


!<! 


202 


PROOliESS  OF  AKCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


year,  in  the-sprijig  of  1845,  the  Lords  Commissioners 
of  tlie  Admiralty,  upon  the  recommendation  of  Sir 
John  Barrow,  determmed  on  sending  out  another  ex- 
pedition to  the  North  Pole. 

Accordingly  the  command  was.  given  to  Sir  John 
Franklin,  who  re-commissioned  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
the  two  vessels  which  had  just  returned  from  the  South 
Polar  Seas.  The  expedition  sailed  from  Sheerness  on 
the  20th  of  May,  1845.  The  following  are  the  officers 
belonging  to  these  vessels,  and  for  whose  safety  so  deep 
an  interest  is  now  felt : — 

Erebus. 

Captain  —  Sir  John  Franklin,  K.  C.  H. 
Commander  —  James  Fitzjames,  (Capt.) 
Lieutenants  —  Graham  Gore,  (Commander,)  Henry 

T.  D.  Lo  Vesconte,  James  William  Fairholme. 
Mates  —  Chas.  F.  des  Vaux,  (Lieut.,)  Robert  O'Sar- 

gent,  (Lieut.) 
Second  Master  —  Henry  F.  Collins. 
Surgeon  —  Stephen  S.  Stanley. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  Harry  D.  S.  Goodsir,  (acting.) 
Paymaster  and  Purser  —  Chas.  H.  O^^f^^, 
Ice-master  —  James  lieid,  acting. 
68  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Full  Complement,  70. 

Terror. 

Captain  —  Fras.  R.  M.  Crozier. 

Lieutenants  —  Edward  Little,  (Commander,)  Geo.  H. 

Hodgson,  John  Irving. 
Mates  —  Frederick  J.  Hornby,  (Lieutenant,)  Robert 

Thomas,  (Lieut.) 
Ice-master  —  T.  Blanky,  (acting.) 
.    Second  Master  —  G.  A.  Maclean. 
Surgeon  —  John  S.  Peddie. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  Alexander  McDonald. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  Edwin  J.  H.  Helpman. 
67  Petty  Officers,  Seamen,  &c. 

Full  Complement,  68. 


FRANKLIN  8    LAST    EXPEDITION. 


203 


Those  officers  whose  rank  is  within  pai'enthesis  havo 
been  promoted  during  their  al)sence. 

The  following  is  an  outline  of  Ca])t.  Franklin's  ser- 
vices as  recorded  in  013yrne's  Naval  Biography  : — 

Sir  John  Franklin,  Kt.,  K.  R.  G.,  K.  C.  11.,  D.  C.  L., 
F.  R.  S.,  was  born  in  1786,  at  Spilsby,  in  Lincolnshire, 
and  is  brother  of  the  late  Sir  W.  Franklin,  Kt,  Chief 
Justice  of  Madras.     He  entered  the  navy  in  October, 
1800,  as  a  boy  on  board  the  Polypliemus,  64,  Captain 
John  Lawford,  under  whom  he  served  as  midshipman 
in  the  action  oft'  Copenhagen,  2d  of  April,  1801.     lie 
then  sailed  with  Captain  Flinders,  in  II.  M.  sloop  In- 
vestigator, on  a  voyage  of  discovery  to  New  Holland, 
joining  there  the  armed  store-ship  Porpoise  ;  he  was 
wrecked  on  a  coral  reef  near  Cato  Bank  on  the  17th  of 
August,  1803.     I  shall  not  follow  him  through  all  his 
subsequent  period  of  active  naval  service,  in  which  he 
displayed  conspicuous  zeal  and  activity.     But  we  find 
him  taking  part  at  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  on  the  21st 
of  October,  1805,  on  board  the  Bellerophon,  where  ho 
was  signal  midsliipman.     He  was  confirmed  as  Lieu- 
tenant, on  board  the  Bedford,  7i,  11th  of  February, 
1808,  and  he  then  escorted  the  loyal  family  of  Portugal, 
from  Lisbon  to  South  America.    He  was  enffasjed  in 
very  arduous  services  during   the  expedition  against 
New  Orleans,  in  the  close  of  1814,  and  was  slightly 
wounded  in  boat  service,  and  for  his  brilliant  services  on 
this  occasion,  was  warmly  and  officially  recommended 
for  promotion.     On  the  14th  of  Jannary,  1818,  he  as- 
sumed command  of  the  hired  brig  Trent,  in  which  he 
accompanied  Captain  D.  Buchan,  of  the  Dorothea,  on 
the  perilous  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  neigliborhood 
of  Spitzbergen,  which  I  have  fully  recorded  elsewhere. 
In  April,  1819,  having  paid  oif  the  Trent  in  the  pre- 
ceding November,  he  was  invested  with  the  conduct 
of  an  expedition  destined  to  proceed  overland  from  the 
shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  for  the  purpose  more  particu- 
larly of  ascertaining  the  actual  position  of  the  month 
bf  the  Coppermine  River,  and  the  exact  trending  of  the 
shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  to  the  eastward  of  tl 


river. 


2(>i 


rUOHUKHH   OV    MiVrW    IHN'OVKUY 


Tlu«  (It'ttiilM  of  \U\H  t'oirrul  iindi'i'tiilviiiH;,  wliidi  (>n< 
(liiitMl  iiiilil  llu^  Hiiiiinicr  tif  ISii'J,  nii«l  in  tliocuiiiH(M)|' 
which,  \\o  rriU'hcil  us  I'tir  its  I'tiiiit  'riirnt(;;'niii,  in  hititndo 
«1S'  \\\'  N.,  ninl  lonwihi.lo  loir 'J.'.'  W.,  un«l  rir.'clr*!  ii 
jonnu'v  Hlt<»;^olhri*  of  .^.^^«^  niih'H,  Cupliiiii  h'ninkiiii 
liHH  ahlv  si't  I'orlh  in  iiis  "  Nunulivo  of  u  .lonrni'v  to 
tho  ShoVi's  (.r  llio  IN.IiU'Srii,  in  \\h^  ^ycnr  IS|!i  L'if,"*nn(| 
Mhit'h  I  hnvi' iil»i'i»l;4;(«l  in  |»n'cnlin<;;  |»a«;«'H.  Ilo  wan 
itn)ni«>l('<i  to  th(^  ranix  ot'  ConinnuKh'i*,  on  th(«  Int  of 
lianuai'v,  ISiJI,  aiul  ri>ai'hiMl  his  post  rank  on  the  li(Mh 
ot'  N«»vonilu>r,  ISl'-J.  On  tho  h'.ih  of  iMJirnan',  ISii:», 
tliis  oin'r^t<ti**  «»irn*i'r  aj;ain  loft  iMii^lan*!  on  anolh««r  tv\- 
ju'dition  to  tiu>  l""i'o/.i>n  Iu'^Ioiim,  iuiNin^'  lor  its  olijcct  a 
('t»-o|uM'ation  with  Caplainn  l'\  \V.  not'('h(>v,  and  \V.  K. 
l*arrv,  in  aMCtTlaininn'  tVoni  o|>posi((>  iinartcrs  thr  i'\- 
istcut'o  oi'  a  n«»ilh\vrsl  |iassa<;i'.  'I'ht*  ifsidts  (»!'  this 
mission  will  Ih>  I'oinid  in  detail  in  (^aptain  i<'i'anl< tin's 
''NarnilivtMtl' a  Si>t'ond  Mxpcdition  to  thoJShcuvs  ot'tho 
IVlarSoa,  in  IS-j:.  7." 

On  his  rotniJi  to  !'!nj;iantl,  whort^  ho  urrivt'd  <»n  tho 
L*«»th  t»t'  Sept.,  IS'JT,  I'ranklin  was  pn>s(«nttMl  hv  tho 
(Ji'oi»"niphi('al  Sociily  ol'  Taris,  with  u  j>;ohl  int'dal  val- 
lU'd  at  ilMM)  tVancs,  lor  havini»-  inado  tho  most  innxtrtant 
aotjnisitions  to  i;ooi:;raphi('al  knowK'diji*  dni'ini»;  tlio  pro- 
ivdini*'  voar,  Juui  (tn  liioL'lMh  ol'  April,  ISi.M>,  ho  roooivt>d 
tho  honor  ot' knin'htlu>od,  hosiiU's  lioinjj;  awanlod  in  .Inly 
t'ollowinii'  thi>  Oxi'ord  «h'jj;roi»  o{'  a  D.  C  L. 

From  \^',\0  to  |S;!|,  ho  was  in  uotivo  sorvioo  in  ooni- 
inanil  oC  II.  M.  S.  liainliow,  on  tho  Moditormnoan  sta- 
tion, an»l  for  his  t>\ortions  iliirinijf  that  p»»riod  as  oon- 
iiootod  with  ti»o  trouMos  in  (iroooo,  was  prosontod  with 
tho  ordor  t>f  tho  lu>doonior  (»f  (Jroi»oi\  Sir  »lohn  was 
oroatod  u  K.  (\  11.  on  tho  '2M\\  oi'  .lanuarv,  IS;>«»,  and 
was  tor  sonio  tinio  Oovonior  of  Van  Dionion's  Land. 
Ho  inarriod,  on  tho  MUh  oi'  Aui;nst,  lSi>;{,  Kloanor 
Anno,  youni»:»>st  tlauixlitor  of  W.  Tordon,  lvs»|.,  arohitoot, 
of  IVrnors  Stroot,  l.ondt)n,  and  socondly,  on  tho  ;'>th  of 
!Novond)or,  ISi?S,  ,lano,  sooon«l  danolitor  of  .lohn  (}rif- 


liu,  Kstj.,  o\'  \\v^\{'ov{\  IMaoo 

Captain  Cro/ior  was  in  all   Parry's  oxpoditit 


his, 


ha^ 


KlfANKIIN  H    I.AHT    KX  I'KMITIOM. 


205 


iii^  Ikm'Ii  iiii<lHlii|»tiiuri  in  tlio  I<'iiry  in  |S2l,  in  tlut 
Urdu  in  |s-j t,  went,  unt.  uh  Ijcntrnjint  in  tli<^  llcclu, 
willi  I'ui'i'V,  on  liin  liojit  <'X|ic(|itiun  l,o  llu'  I'oli'  in  IH^T, 
volnnlt'crt'd  in  IH.'WI  to  jjjo  out,  in  Hcjircli  of  tlu^  inih-Hin;^ 
vvlnilt'i'H  iumI  tlu'ir  cnnvrt  to  DuviH'  SlraitM,  wjih  iniidt!  a 
( 'iipliiin  in  |K||,un«l  \v:ih  Hccond  in  contnuind  of  tlio 
unliii'(-li(M>.\|)(>(l<(ion  nndt'i*  Sir  .lanic^H  Kohh,  :in<l  on  liiH 
return,  u|i|(oint(«  Ut  tlio  Terror,  uh  hocond  in  coinniund 
inxlcr  I'Vunklin. 

|j«>ult>nunt  (ioro  Hitrvcd  m  u  niul(!  in  tlu^  lunt  fourfnl 
voyji<^(M>f  I lu(  Terror,  under  l»u<'k,  und  wuh  uIho  with 
i^)MH  in  tlut  unturetic  e.\|)edilion.  lie  luiH  uttuined  liin 
connnunderV  runk  durin«^  liis  ul)Heiiee. 

I/ieuteiu»nt  l"'uirliolnu<  wum  in  tlie  Ni;j;er  expedition. 

liieiiteiiunt  liittle  has  uIko  l)(>en  |)roinot(;d  during  liin 
ui>Henee,  und  so  liuvt^  all  tlie  niatcK. 

Cotnnuiniler  iMt/janies  is  a  Krave  and  gallant  ollicer, 
who  luiK  Hceii  much  seirvice  in  the  l^ast, und  has  uttairuMl 
to  luH  |)oMt  runk  Hineit  his  (U'parture. 

The  TtM'ror,  it  nuiy  he  ri^inendu'red,  in  the  veHHcl  in 
which  ('a|>tain  Sir  (I.  I»aek  made  hirt  porilouH  attempt 
U*  reach  Iteiudse  Hay,  in  IS.'»(I. 

'J'ho  KrehuM  und  Terror  were  not  expected  homo  un- 
•esH  HUceesH  had  early  rtiwarded  their  ellortH,  or  Homo 
cuHUulty  husteiied  their  return,  helore  the  clone  of  IS47, 
nor  were  any  tidin<jjrt  antici[>ated  from  them  in  the  in- 
terval ;  hut  when  tlui  autunm  t>f  1H47  arrived,  with<»ut 
•my  .ntelli<j^enc«  of  the  Khipn,  the  attention  of  II.  M. 
(iovermnent  wan  directed  to  the  neeenHity  of  searchin*^ 
for,  and  c(>nveyin^  relief  to  them,  in  cane  of  their  heintj^ 
im|)risoned  in  the  ice,  or  wrecked,  and  in  want  of  pro- 
visionH  and  means  of  transport. 

For  this  purpose  a  Hearchin<]^  expedition  in  three 
divisions  was  iittiMl  out  by  thi^  L^overnment,  in  the  early 
]»art  of  ISIS.  The  investi^jjation  was  directed  to  throe 
dillerent  (puirters  fiimultaru'ously,  viz  :  Ist,  to  that  by 
which,  in  case  of  success,  the  ships  would  come  out  of 
thi>  Polar  Sou,  to  the  westward,  ov  Hehring's  Straits. 
This  consisted  of  a  Hini:;le  ship,  the  Plover,  connnanded 
by  (captain  Moore,  which  left  England  in  the  latter  end 


200 


PROORKSS    OF    AUCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


of  Janmiry,  for  the  purpose  of  entorinnj  Behring's  Strait. 
It  was  intended,  that  she  slioidd  arrive  tln;re  in  the 
month  of  July,  and  having  looked  out  for  a  winter  har- 
bor, she  mi«;ht  send  out  her  boats  northward  and  east- 
ward, in  which  directions  the  discovery  ships,  if  suc- 
cessful, would  be  met  with.  The  Plover,  however,  in 
her  tirst  season,  never  even  approached  the  place  of  her 
destination,  owing  to  her  setting  off  too  late,  and  to  her 
bad  sailing  properties. 

Iler  subsequent  proceedings,  and  those  of  her  boats 
along  the  coast,  will  be  founcf  narrated  in  after  pages. 

The  second  division  of  the  expedition  was  one  of 
])oats,  to  explore  the  coast  of  the  Arctic  Sea  between 
the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  Kivers,  or  from  tho 
185th  to  the  115th  degree  of  W.  longitude,  together 
with  the  south  coast  of  Wollaston  Land,  it  being  sup- 
posed, that  if  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  had  been  com- 
pelled to  leave  the  ships  and  take  to  the  boats,  they 
would  make  f(.)r  this  coast,  whence  they  could  reach  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts.  This  party  was  placed 
under  the  comnumd  of  the  faithful  friend  of  Franklin, 
and  the  companion  of  his  former  travels,  Dr.  Sir  John 
Richardson,  who  landed  at  New  York  in  April,  1848, 
and  hastened  to  join  his  men  and  boats,  whicii  were 
already  in  advance  toM^ard  the  arctic  shore.  He  was, 
however,  unsuccessful  in  his  search. 

The  remaining  and  most  important  portion  of  this 
searching  expedition  consisted  of  two  ships  under  the 
command  of  Sir  James  Ross,  M'hich  sailed  in  May,  1848, 
for  the  locality  in  which  Franklin's  ships  entered  on 
this  course  of  discovery,  viz.,  the  eastern  side  of  Davis' 
Straits.  These  did  not,  however,  succeed,  owing  to  tho 
state  of  the  ice  in  getting  into  Lancaster  Sound  until 
the  season  for  operations  had  nearly  closed.  These  ships 
wintered  in  the  neighborhood  of  Leopold  Island,  Regent 
Lilet,  and  missing  the  store-ship  sent  out  with  pro- 
visions and  fuel,  to  enable  them  to  stop  out  another 
year,  were  driven  out  through  the  Strait  by  the  ])ack 
of  ice,  and  returned  home  unsuccessful.  The  subse- 
quent expeditions  consequent  upon  the  failure  of  the 


FKANKI.IN  8    LAST   KXrEDITION. 


207 


foivgoing  will  1)0  found  fully  detailed  and  narrated  in 
their  proper  orcU;r. 

Among  the  number  of  volunteers  fi^  ■  the  servlco  of 
exploration,  in  the  different  searehing  expeditiunn,  were 
the  following: — Mr.  Chas.  Keid,  lately  coniinanding 
the  whalinfT  bIui)  Pacilic,  and  brother  to  the  ice-nuister 
on  board  tlie  Erebus,  a  man  of  great  experience  and 
respectability. 

The  Kev.  Joseph  "Wolff,  who  went  to  Bokhara  in 
search  of  Capt.  Conolly  and  Col.  Stoddart. 

Mr.  John  McLean,  who  had  mssed  twenty-fivo  years 
as  an  officer  and  partner  of  the  lludson's  Bay  Comj)any, 
and  who  has  recently  published  an  interesting  narra- 
tive of  his  experience  in  the  northwest  regions. 

Dr.  Richard  King,  who  accompanied  Cant.  Back  in 
his  land  journey  to  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Fish  Kiver. 

Lieut.  ISherard  Osborn,  R.  N.,  who  had  recently  gone 
out  in  the  Pioneer,  tender  to  the  Resolute. 

Comuumder  Forsyth,  R.  N.,  who  volunteered  for  all 
the  expeditions,  and  was  at  last  sent  out  by  Lady  Frank- 
lin in  the  Prince  All)ert. 

Dr.  McCormick,  R.  N.,  who  served  under  Cai)tain  Sir 
E.  Parry,  in  the  attempt  to  reach  the  2^orth  Pole,  in  1827, 
who  twice  previously  volunteered  his  services  in  1847. 

Capt.  Sir  John  Ross,  who  has  gone  out  in  the  Felix, 
fitted  out  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  by  pri- 
vate subscriptions  ;  and  many  others. 

Up  to  the  present  time  no  intelligence  of  any  kind 
lias  been  received  respecting  the  expedition,  and  its 
fate  is  now  excitin^  the  most  intense  anxiety,  not  only 
on  the  part  of  the  British  government  and  public,  but 
of  the  whole  civilized  world.  The  maratime  powers  of 
Europe  .ind  the  United  States  are  vying  with  each  otiier 
IS  to  "who  shall  be  the  first  to  discover  some  trace  of  the 
Hissing  navigators,  and  if  they  be  still  alive,  to  render 
.hem  assistance.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have, 
with  a  noble  liberality,  placed  all  their  available  re- 
sources of  men,  provisions,  and  the  services  of  their 
chief  and  most  experienced  traders,  at  the  disposal  of 
government.    The  Russian  authorities  have  also  givcui 


208 


PKOGliKSS   OF   AKCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


■      I 


every  facility  for  diffusing  information  and  affording 
as^istiuice  in  tlieir  territories. 

In  a  letter  from  Sir  John  Franklin  to  Colonel  Sabine, 
dated  from  the  AVhale  Fish  Islands,  9th  of  July,  1845, 
after  noticing  that,  including  what  they  had  received 
from  the  transport  which  had  accompanied  tliem  so  far, 
the  Erebus  and  Terror  had  on  board  provisions,  fuel, 
clothing  and  stores  for  three  years  complete  from  that 
date,  i.  e.  to  July,  1848,  lie  continues  as  follows: — "1 
hope  my  dear  wite  and  daughter  will  not  be  over-anxious 
if  we  should  not  return  by  the  time  they  l".ive  fixed  upon; 
and  I  must  beg' of  you  to  give  them  the  benefit  of  your 
advice  and  experience  when  that  arrives,  for  you  know 
well,  that  even  after  the  second  winter,  without  success 
in  our  object,  we  should  wish  to  try  some  other  channel, 
if  tlie  state  of  our  ^^^'ovisio-js,  and  the  health  of  the 
crews  justify  it. 

Capt.  Dannett,  of  the  wlialer.  Prince  of  Wales,  while 
in  Melville  Bay,  last  saw  the  vessels  of  the  expedition, 
moored  to  an  iceberg,  on  the  26th  of  July,  in  lat.  74° 
48'  N.,  long.  66*^  13'  W.,  waiting  for  a  favorable  open- 
ing through  the  middle  ice  from  Baffin's  Bay  to  Lancas- 
ter Sound.  Capt.  Dannetc  states  that  during  three  weeks 
after  parting  company  with  the  ships,  he  experienced 
very  line  weather,  and  thinks  they  would  have  made 
good  ])rogress. 

Lieut.  Griffith,  in  command  of  the  transport  which 
accompanied  them  out  with  provisions  to  Baffin's  Bay, 
reports  that  he  left  all  hands  well  and  in  high  spirits. 
They  were  then  furnished,  he  adds,  with  every  species 
of  provisions  for  three  entii-e  years,  independently  of 
five  l^ullocks,  and  stores  of  every  description  for  the 
same  period,  with  abundance  of  fuel. 

The  following  is  Sir  John  Franklin's  official  letter 
sent  home  by  the  transport :  — 

"  77<^?'  Ifajestifs  Shrp  ''  Erehus^^ 
"  Whale-Fish  Islands,  12th  of  July,  1845. 

"  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  you,  for  the  informa- 
tion of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  that 


FRANKLIN  S   LAST   EXPEDITION. 


20D 


fording 

Sabine, 
i,  18^5, 
cceived 
1  so  far, 
ns,  fuel, 
om  that 
s: — "1 
anxious 
id  upon; 
of  your 
)u  know 
;  success 
channel, 
1  of  tlio 

es,  while 
nedition. 

I  lat.  74° 
>le  open- 
(  Lancas- 
•ee  weeks 
)erienced 
ve  made 

rt  wdiich 
in's  Bay, 
h  spirits. 
y  species 
rlently  of 

II  for  the 

ial  lettei 

uhj,  1845. 

!  inform a- 
i-alty,  that 


her  Majesty's  ships  Erebus  and  Terror,  with  the  trans- 
])ort,  arrived  at  this  anchorage  *.  the  4th  instant,  hav- 
ing had  a  passage  of  one  month  from  Stromness :  the 
trausi)ort  was  immediately  taken  alongside  this  ship, 
tliat  she  might  be  the  more  readily  cleared ;  and  we 
liave  been  constantly  employed  at  that  operation  till 
last  evening,  the  delay  having  been  caused  not  so 
much  in  getting  the  stores  transferred  to  either  of  the 
ships,  as  in  making  the  best  stowage  of  them  below, 
as  well  as  on  the  upper  deck  ;  the  ships  are  now  com- 
plete with  supplies  of  every  kind  for  three  years ;  they 
are  therefore  very  deep;  but,  happily,  we  have  no 
reason  to  expect  much  sea  as  we  proceed  farther. 

"  The  magnetic  instruments  were  landed  the  same 
morning  ;  so  also  were  the  other  instruments  requisite 
for  ascertaining  the  position  of  the  observatory ;  and 
it  is  satisfactory  to  lind  that  the  result  of  the  observa- 
tions for  latitude  and  longitude  accord  very  nearly 
with  those  assigned  to  the  same  place  by  Sir  Edward 
Parry;  those  for  the  dip  and  variation  are  equally  sat- 
isfactory, which  were  made,  by  Captain  Crozier  with 
the  instruments  belonging  to  the  Terror,  and  by  Com- 
mander Fitzjames  with  those  of  the  Erebus. 

"  The  ships  are  now  being  sW'Ung,  for  the  purpose 
of  ascertaining  the  dip  and  deviation  of  the  needle  on 
board,  as  was  done  at  Greenhithe,  which,  I  trust,  will 
be  completed  this  afternoon,  and  I  hope  to  be  able  to 
sail  in  the  night. 

"The  governor  and  principal  persons  are  at  this 
time  absent  from  Disco,  so  that  I  have  not  been  able 
to  receive  ?ny  communication  from  head  quarters  as 
to  tlie  state  of  the  ice  to  the  north  ;  I  have,  howeVer, 
learnt  from  a  Danish  carpenter  in  charge  of  the  Es- 
quimaux at  these  islands,  that  though  the  winter  was 


severe,  the  spring  -was  not  later  than  usual,  nor  was 


tlie  ice  later  in  breaking  away  hereabout;  he  su])poses 
also  that  it  is  now  loose  as  far  as  74°  latitude,  and  that 
our  prospect  is  favorable  of  getting  across  the  barrier, 
and  as  far  as  Lancaster  Sound,  without  much  obstruc- 
tion. 


\     i. 


210 


PliOGKESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


"Tlie  transport  will  sail  for  England  this  day.  1 
sh.ill  instruct  the  agent,  Lieutenant  Griffiths,  to  pro- 
ceed to  Deptford,  and  report  his  arrival  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Admiralty.  I  have  much  satisfaction  in 
bearing  my  testimony  to  the  careful  and  zealous  man- 
ner in  which  Lieut.  Griffiths  has  performed  the  service 
intrusted  to  him,  and  would  beg  to  recommend  him, 
as  an  officer  who  appears  to  have  seen  much  service, 
to  the  favorable  consideration  of  their  lordships. 

"It  is  nnnecessary  for  me  to  assure  their  lordships 

of  the  energy  and  zeal  of  Captain  Crozier,  Commander 

Fitzjames,  and  of  the  officers  and  men  with  whom  I 

have  the  happiness  of  being  employed  on  this  service. 

"I  have,  (fee, 

(Signed)  Joim  Frankltn,  Captain. 

"The  Itight  Uon.  II.  L.  Corry,  M.  P." 

It  has  often  been  a  matter  of  surprise  that  but  one 
of  the  co})per  cylinders  which  Sir  John  Franklin  was 
instructed  to  throw  overboard  at  stated  intervals,  to 
record  his  ])rogi'ess,  has  ever  come  to  hand,  but  a  re- 
cent sight  of  the  solitary  one  which  has  been  received 
proves  to  me  that  they  are  utterly  useless  for  the 
purpose.  A  small  tube,  about  the  size  of  an  ordi- 
nary rocket-case,  is  hardly  ever  likely  to  be  observed 
among  huge  masses  of  ice,  and  the  waves  of  the  At- 
lantic and  Pacific,  unless  drifted  by  accident  on  shore, 
or  near  some  boat.  The  Admiralty  have  wisely  or- 
dc'ied  them  to  be  rendered  more  cons})icuous  by  being 
headed  up  in  some  cask  or  barrel,  instructions  being 
issued  to  Captain  Collinson,  and  other  officers  of  the 
different  expeditions  to  that  efl'ect. 

According  to  Sir  John  Iwichardson,  who  was  on  inti- 
mate terms  with  Sir  »l(»hn  Franklin,  his  plans  were  to 
sha])c  his  course  in  the  first  instance  for  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Ca])e  Walker,  and  to  push  to  the  westward  iii 
that  parallel,  or,  if  that  could  not  be  accomjilished,  to 
make  his  way  southward,  to  the  channel  discovered  on 
the  north  coast  of  the  continent,  and  so  on  to  Behring's 
Straits  ;  failing  success  in  that  quartei",  he  mean.t  to  re- 
trace his  course  to  Wellington  Sound,  and  attempt  a 


feanklin'8  last  expedition. 


211 


passage  northward  of  Parry's  Islands,  and  if  foiled  there 
also,  to  descend  Regent  Inlet,  and  seek  the  passage 
along  the  coast  discovered  by  Messrs.  Dease  and  {Simp- 
son. 

Captain  Fitzjames,  the  second  in  command  under 
Sir  John  Franklin,  was  much  inclined  to  try  the  pas- 
sage northward  of  Parry's  Islands,  and  he  would  no 
doubt  endeavor  to  persuade  Sir  John  to  pursue  this 
course  if  they  failed  to  the  southward. 

In  a  private  hitter  of  Captain  Fitzjames  to  Sir  John 
Barrow,  dated  January,  1845,  he  writes  as  follows  :  — 

"  It  does  not  appear  clear  to  me  what  led  Parry  down 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  after  having  got  as  far  as  Melville 
Island  before.  The  northwest  passage  is  certainly  to 
be  gone  through  by  Barrow's  Strait,  but  whether  south 
or  north  of  Parry'n  Group,  remains  to  be  proved.  I  am 
for  going  north,  edging  northwest  till  in  longitude  140°, 
if  possible." 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  trace,  in  chronological  order 
and  succession,  the  opinions  and  proceedings  of  the 
cliief  arctic  explorers  and  public  authorities,  with  the 
private  suggestions  offered  and  notice  in  detail  the  re- 
lief expeditions  resulting  therefrom. 

In  February,  1847,  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty  state, 
that  having  unlimited  confidence  in  the  skill  and  re- 
sources of  Sir  John  Franklin,  they  "  have  as  yet  felt  no 
apprehensions  about  his  safety  ;  but  on  the  other  hand, 
it  is  obvious,  that  if  no  accounts  of  him  should  arrive 
by  the  end  of  tliis  year,  or,  as  Sir  John  Ross  expects,  at 
an  earlier  period,  active  steps  must  then  be  taken." 

Captain  Sir  Edward  Parry  fully  concurred  in  these 
views,  observing, "  Former  experience  has  clearly  shown 
that  with  the  resources  taken  from  this  country,  two 
winters  may  be  passed  in  the  polar  regions,  not  only  in 
safety,  but  with  comfort ;  and  if  any  inference  can  be 
drawn  from  the  absence  of  all  intelligence  of  the  expe- 
dition up  to  this  time,  I  am  disposed  to  consider  it  ra- 
ther in  favor  than  otherwise  of  the  success  which  has 


attended  their  efforts. 


« 


Captain  Sir  G.  Back,  in  a  letter  to  the  Secretary  of 


212 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


the  Admiralty,  under  date  27th  of  January,  1848,  says, 
"I  cannot  bring  myself  to  entertain  more  than  ordi- 
nary anxiety  for  the  safety  and  return  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  his  gallant  companions." 

Captain  Sir  John  Ross  records,  in  February,  1847, 
his  opinion  that  the  expedition  was  frozen  up  beyond 
Melville  Island,  from  the  known  intentions  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  to  put  his  ships  into  the  drift  ice  at  the  west- 
ern end  of  Melville  Island,  a  risk  which  was  deemed 
in  the  highest  degree  imprudent  by  Lieutenant  Parry 
and  the  officers  of  the  exi3edition  of  1819-20,  with 
ships  of  a  less  draught  of  water,  and  in  every  respect 
better  calculated  to  sustain  the  pressure  of  the  ice,  and 
other  dangers  to  which  they  must  be  exposed ;  and  as 
it  is  now  well  known  that  the  expedition  has  not  suc- 
ceeded in  passing  Behring's  Strait,  and  if  not  totally 
lost,  must  have  been  carried  by  the  ice  that  is  known 
to  drift  to  the  southward  on  land  seen  at  a  great  dis- 
tance in  that  direction,  and  from  which  the  accumu- 
lation of  ice  behind  them  will,  as  in  Ross's  own  case, 
forever  prevent  the  return  of  the  ships  ;  consequently 
they  must  be  abandoned.  When  we  remember  with 
what  extreme  difficulty  Ross's  party  traveled  300  miles 
over  much  smoother  ice  after  they  abandoned  their 
vessel,  it  appears  very  doubtful  whether  Franklin  and 
his  men,  138  in  number,  could  possibly  travel  COO 
miles. 

In  the  contingency  of  the  ships  having  penetrated 
some  considerable  distance  to  the  soutawest  of  Capo 
Walker,  and  having  been  hampered  and  crushed  in  tlio 
narrow  channels  of  the  Archipelago,  which  there  are 
reasons  for  believing  occupies  the  space  between  Vic- 
toria, Wollaston,  and  Banks'  Lands,  it  is  well  re- 
marked by  Sir  John  Richardson,  that  such  accideiiti? 
among  ice  are  seldom  so  sudden  but  that  the  boats  of 
one  or  of  both  ships,  with  provisions,  can  be  saved ; 
and  in  such  an  event  the  survivors  would  either  returu 
to  Lancaster  Strait,  or  make  for  the  continent,  accord 
ing  to  their  nearness. 

Colonel  Sabine  remarks,  in  a  letter  dated  Woolvicb, 


franklin's  last  expedition. 


213 


6th  of  May,  1847,-—"  It  was  Sir  John  Franklin's  inten- 
tion, if  foiled  at  one  point,  to  try  in  succession  all  the 
probable  openings  into  a  more  navigable  part  of  the 
Polar  Sea:  the  range  of  coast  is  considerable  in  which 
memorials  of  the  ships'  progress  w^ould  have  to  be 
sought  for,  extending  from  Melville  Island,  in  the  west, 
to  the  great  Soimd  at  the  head  of  Baffin's  Bay,  in  the 
east." 

Sir  John  Richardson,  when  appealed  to  by  the  Admi- 
ralty in  the  spring  of  1847,  as  regarded  the  very  strong 
apprehensions  expressed  at  that  time  for  the  safety  of 
the  expedition,  considered  they  were  premature,  as  the 
ships  were  specially  equipped  to  pass  two  winters  in 
the  Arctic  Sea,  and  until  the  close  of  that  year,  he  saw 
no  well-grounded  cause  for  more  anxiety  than  was  nat- 
urally felt  when  the  expedition  sailed  from  this  country 
on  an  enterprise  of  peril,  though  not  greater  than  that 
which  had  repeatedly  been  encountered  by  others,  and 
on  one  occasion  by  Sir  John  Ross  for  two  winters  also, 
but  who  returned  in  safety. 

Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  in  March,  1847,  writes* 
"I  do  not  think  there  is  the  smallest  reason  for  appre- 
hension or  anxiety  for  the  safety  and  success  of  the 
expedition  ;  no  one  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  the 
navigation  of  the  Polar  Sea  would  have  expected  they 
would  have  been  able  to  get  through  to  Behring's  Strait 
without  spending  at  least  two  winters  in  those  regions, 
except  under  unusually  favorable  circumstances,  which 
all  the  accounts  from  the  whalers  concur  in  proving 
they  have  not  experienced,  and  I  am  quite  sure  neither 
Sir  John  Franklin  nor  Captain  Crozier  expected  to  do  so. 

"Their  last  letters  to  me  from  AVhalc  Fish  Islands, 
the  day  previous  to  their  departure  from  them  inform 
nie  that  they  had  taken  on  board  provisions  for  three 
years  on  fiill  allowance,  which  they  could  extend  to  four 
years  without  any  serious  inconvenience ;  so  that  we 
may  feel  assured  they  cannot  want  from  that  cause  until 
after  the  middle  of  July,  1849  ;  it  therefore  does  not 
appear  to  me  at  all  desirable  to  send  after  them  until  the 
spring  of  the  next  year."  (1848.) 


21d 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


In  the  plan  submitted  by  Captjiin  F.  W.  Beechey, 
K.  N.,  in  April,  1847,  after  i)reniisiiig  "  tiiat  there  does 


not  at  j)re8ent  appear  to  be  any  reasonable  apprelien- 
sion  for  the  safety  of  tlie  expedition,"  he  suggested  that 
it  would  perhaps  be  prudent  that  a  relief  expedition 
should  be  sent  out  that  season  to  Cape  Walker,  where 
information  of  an  impoi'tant  nature  would  most  likely 
1)0  found.  From  this  vicinity  one  vessel  could  proceed 
to  examine  the  various  points  and  headlands  in  Kegent 
Inlet,  and  also  those  to  the  northward,  while  the  other 
watc'lied  the  passage,  so  that  Franklin  and  his  party 
might  not  pass  unseen,  should  he  be  on  his  return.  At 
the  end  of  the  season  the  sliips  could  winter  at  Port 
Bowen,  or  any  other  port  in  the  vicinity  of  Le()j)okl 
Island. 

"In  the  spring  of  1848,"  he  adds,  "a  partj'^  shouhl  be 
directed  to  explore  the  coast,  <lown  to  Hecla  and  Fury 
Strait,  and  to  endeavor  to  communicate  \/ith  the  paity 
dispatched  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  that  direc- 
tion; and  in  connection  with  this  part  of  the  arrange- 
ment, it  would  render  the  plan  complete  if  a  boat  could 
be  sent  down  Back's  lliver  to  range  the  coast  to  the 
eastward  of  its  mouth,  to  meet  the  above  mentioned 
party  ;  and  thus,  .  hile  it  would  complete  the  geography 
of  that  part  of  the  American  coast,  it  would  at  the  same 
time  complete  the  line  of  information  as  to  the  extensive 
measures  of  relief  which  their  lordships  have  set  on 
foot,  and  the  j)recise  spot  where  assistance  and  depots 
of  provisions  are  to  be  found.  This  j)art  of  the  plan 
has  suggested  itself  to  m^  from  a  conversation  I  had 
with  Sir  John  Franklin  as  to  his  first  efl:brt  being  made 
to  the  westward  and  southwestward  of  Cape  Walker. 
It  is  possible  that,  after  passing  the  Cape,  he  may  have 
oeen  successful  in  getting  down  upon  Victoria  Land, 
and  have  passed  his  first  winter  (1845)  thereabout,  and 
ih.it  he  may  have  spent  his  second  winter  at  a  still  more 
advanced  station,  and  even  endured  a  third,  without 
eithe:  prospect  of  success,  or  of  an  extrication  of  his 
vesse      /ithin  a  given  period  of  time. 

"If,  ii    thld  condition,  which  I  trust  may  not  be  the 


^ 


OPINIONS   AND   8UGOE8TION8. 


215 


case,  Sir  John  Franklin  should  resolve  upon  taking  to 
his  boats,  ho  would  prefer  attempting  a  l)oat  navigation 
through  Sir  James  Iloss's  Strait,  and  up  llegent  Inlet, 
to  a  long  land  journey  across  the  continent,  to  the  Jlud- 
son's  Bay  Settlements,  to  which  the  greater  part  of  his 
crew  would  be  wholly  unequal." 

Sir  John  Ivichardson  remarks  upon  the  above  sugges- 
tions, on  the  5th  of  May,  1847, — "  AVith  respect  to  a 
])arty  to  be  sent  down  ] rack's  liiver  to  the  bottom  of 
Kegent  Inlet,  its  size  and  outiit  would  require  to  be 
equal  with  that  of  the  one  now  preparing  to  descend 
the  Mackenzie  Kiver,  and  it  could  scarcely  with  the 
utmost  exertions  be  organized  so  as  to  start  this  sum- 
mer. The  present  scarcity  of  provisions  in  the  Hudson's 
Bay  country  precludes  the  hope  of  assistance  from  the 
Company's  southern  posts,  and  it  is  now  too  late  to 
provide  the  means  of  transport  through  the  interior  of 
supplies  from  this  country,  which  require  to  be  embarked 
on  board  the  Hudson's  Bay  ships  by  the  2d  of  June  at 
the  latest. 

"  Moreover  there  is  no  Company's  post  on  the  line  of 
Back's  River  nearer  than  the  junction  of  Slave  River 
w' ith  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  I  do  not  think  that  under 
any  circumstances  Sir  John  Franklin  would  attempt 
that  route. 

"  In  the  summer  of  1849,  if  the  resources  of  the  party 
I  am  to  conduct  remain  unimpaired,  as  I  have  every 
reason  to  believe  they  will,  much  of  what  Capi.  Beechey 
suggests  in  regard  to  exploring  Victoria  Land  may  be 
done  Ijy  it,  and  indeed  forms  part  of  the  original  scheme. 
The  extent  of  the  examination  of  any  part  of  the  coast 
in  1848  depends,  as  I  formerly  stated,  very  much  on 
the  seasons  of  this  autumn  and  next  spring,  which  influ- 
ence the  advance  of  the  boats  through  a  long  course  of 
river  navigation.  As  Governor  Simpson  will  most 
likely  succeed  in  procuring  an  Esquimaux  to  accom- 
pany my  party,  I  hope  by  his  means  to  obtain  such 
information  from  parties  of  that  nation  as  may  greatly 
facilitate  our  finding  the  ships,  should  they  be  delained 
in  that  quarter. 


m 


.-^ 


iilO 


PK00IIK8S   OP    AKCTIC    DISOOVEKY. 


I 


I 


"Were  Sir  John  Franklin  thrown  upon  the  north 
coast  of  tlie  continei-.t  witli  his  boats,  and  all  his  crew, 
1  do  not  think  he  would  attempt  t!ie  ascent  of  any  river, 
except  the  Mackenzie.  It  is  navin^ahle  for  boats  of  laro'o 
dranglit,  without  a  porta<jfe,  for  1300  miles  from  the 
sea,  or  within  forty  miles  of  Fort  Ciiipewyau,  one  of 
the  Company's  ])rincipal  depots,  and  there  are  five 
other  posts  in  that  distance.  Tiiough  these  posts  could 
not  furnish  provisions  to  such  a  party,  they  could,  by 
providin*^  them  with  nets,  and  distributing  the  men  to 
varit)us  lishing  stations,  do  much  toward  procuring  food 
for  them. 

"I  concur  generally  in  what  Captain  Beechey  has 
said  with  regard  to  13ehring*s  Straits,  a  locaijit}'^  with 
wiiich  he  is  so  intimately  acquainted,  but  beg  Tfeave  to 
add  one  remark,  viz :  that  in  high  northern  latitudes 
the  ordinary  allowance  of  animal  food  is  insutlicient  in 
the  winter  season  to  maintain  a  laboring  man  in  health  ; 
and  as  Sir  John  Franklin  would  deem  it  i^rudent  when 
detained  a  second  winter  to  shorten  the  allowance, 
symj)toms  of  scurvy  may  show  tiiemselves  among  the 
men,  as  was  the  case  when  Sir  Edward  Parry  wintered 
two  years  in  Fox's  Channel. 

"  A  vessel,  therefore,  meeting  the  Erebus  and  Terror 
this  season  in  Behring's  Straits,  might  render  great 
service."  * 

The  late  Sir  John  Barrow,  Bart.,  in  a  memorandum 
dated  Julv,  1847,  savs  : — 

"  The  anxiety  that  prevails  regarding  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, and  the  brave  fellows  wdio  compose  the  crews  of 
the  two  ships,  is  very  natural,  but  somewhat  premature  ; 
it  arises  chiefly  from  nothing  having  been  received  from 
them  since  fixed  in  the  ice  of  Baffin's  Bay,  where  the 
lust  whaling  ship  of  the  season  of  18-15  left  them,  oppo- 
site to  the  opening  into  Lancaster  Sound.  Hitherto  no 
difficulty  has  been  found  to  the  entrance  into  that 
Sound.  If  disappointed,  rather  than  return  to  [he  south- 
ward, with  the  view  of  wintering  at  or  about  Disco,  I 


i 


Pari.  Paper,  No.  264,  Session  1818. 


; 
■ 


OPINIONS   AND   SUOOK8TION8. 


217 


ank- 
vs  of 
ure  ; 
i-om 
the 
|>ppo- 
0  no 
that 
outh- 
co,  I 


should  he  inclined  to  think  that  they  would  endeavor  to 
enter  Smith's  Sound,  so  highly  spoken  of  by  BalHn,  and 
which  just  now  tluit  gallant  and  adventurous  Eussian, 
Admiral  Count  AVrangel,  has  pointed  out  in  a  paper 
addressed  to  the  Geographical  Society  as  the  starting 
place  for  an  attempt  to  reach  the  North  Pole ;  it  would 
appear  to  be  an  inlet  that  runs  up  high  to  the  northward, 
as  an  officer  in  one  of  Parry's  snips  states  tliat  he  saw 
in  the  line  of  direction  along  that  inlet,  the  sun  at  mid- 
night skimming  the  horizon. 

"  From  Lancaster  Sound  Franklin's  instructions  di- 
rected him  to  proceed  through  Barrow's  Strait,  as  far  as 
the  islands  on  its  southern  side  extended,  which  is  siiort 
of  Melville  Island,  which  was  to  be  avoided,  not  only 
on  account  of  its  dangerous  coast,  but  also  as  being  out 
of  the  direction  of  the  course  to  the  intended  object. 
Having,  therefore,  reached  the  last  known  land  on  the 
southern  side  of  Barrow's  Strait,  they  were  to  shape 
a  direct  course  to  Behring's  Strait,  without  any  devia- 
tion, except  what  obstruction  might  be  met  with  from 
ice,  or  from  islands,  in  the  midst  of  the  Polar  Sea,  of 
which  no  knowledge  had  at  that  time  been  procured  ; 
but  if  any  such  existed,  it  would  of  course  be  left  to 
their  judgment,  on  the  spot,  how  to  get  rid  of  such  ob- 
structions, ]./  taking  a  northerly  or  a  southerly  course. 


* 


* 


* 


* 


* 


4fr 


"  The  only  chance  of  bringing  them  upon  this  (the 
American)  coast  is  the  possibility  of  some  obstruction 
having  tempted  them  to  explore  an  immense  inlet  on 
tlie  northern  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  (short  of  Md 
ville  Island,)  called  "Wellington  Channel,  w^hich  Parry 
felt  an  inclination  to  explore,  and  more  than  one  of 
the  present  party  betrayed  to  me  a  similar  inclination, 
which  I  discouraged,  no  one  venturing  to  conjecture 
even  to  what  extent  it  might  go,  or  into  what  difficulties 
it  might  lead. 

"  Under  all  these  circumstances,  it  would  be  an  act 
of  folly  to  pronounce  any  opinion  of  the  state,  condi- 
tion, or  position  of  those  two  ships ;  they  aro  well  puitod 

10 


'^•-^:-' 


L»18 


l'UOUlCl>S   OK    AKCIU!    l>IS«'(>VKItY. 


For  tlioir  |)ur|H)so,  ftinl  the  only  (loiil>t  I  havo  is  tlmt  of 
tlu'ir  lu'liiir  liJiiuiicivd  liv  the  scri'ws  aiiiono;  tlio  ice.*' 


Sir  .laim>s  ('.  iJoss,  in  liis  outline  f»f  a  j)lan  tor  atloni- 
in^  rt'lii'f,  milmiitti'd  to  tlio  Admiralty  in  Di'ci'inlK'r, 
J  SI  7,  sn_i!:«iji'stt'«l  that  two  Hhi|>s  slionld  I)«  sent  ont  to 
oxaniino  Wellington  Clianiu'I,  allndiMJ  to  in  tlic  t'orc^-o- 
in^-  nu'inorandiini  «)t'  Sir  .lolni  Marrow,  and  tlit-  coast 
hitwiHMi  Capi's  ('lari-ni'ti  an<l  Walker.  A  conNcidcnt 
Avinti'r  liarltor  niinlit  l»i'  I'onnd  t'oi*  one  ot'tlie  nhips  near 
(iarnier  IJay  or  ('a|>e  JJennell.  From  this  ])ositi(»n  the 
coast  line  coidd  hi'  explored  as  tar  as  it  extended  to  th(3 
Avestward,  hy  detached  jnirties,  early  in  the  sprinj^,  as 
well  as  the  western  coast  of  lloothia,  a  consideral»hi 
distance  to  the  sonthward  ;  and  at  a  more  advanced 
])eriod  of  the  seasctn  the  whole  distance  to  Ca})c  Kicolai 
miirht  he  compU'ted. 

The  other  shij)  shonld  then  proceed  alone  to  the 
Mestward,  endeavorinij  to  reach  Winter  Harbor,  in 
]\Ielvillo  Island,  or  some  convenient  port  in  Banks' 
Land,  in  which  to  j)ass  the  winti'r. 

From  these  points  parties  nii^ht  be  sent  out  early  in 
the  sprin<»;. 

The  tirst  ])arty  shonld  be  directed  to  trace  the  west- 
ern coast  of  Banks'  Land,  and  proceed  direct  to  Ci\\)0. 
Bathnrst  or  CajK*  Parry,  on  each  of  which  Sir  John 
Tvichardson  propi^si^s  to  leave  depots  of  ]>rovisions  for 
its  nse,  and  then  to  reach  the  Iludsoirs  I'av  (Vmipanv's 
settlement  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  on  the  ]\[acken/ie, 
-whence  thev  mio-ht  travel  T»v  the  n^ual  route  of  the 
traders  ti)  the  principal  settlement,  and  thence  to  Eng- 
land. 

The  second  party  should  explore  the  eastern  shore  of 
Banks'  Land,  and  make  for  Cape  Krusenstern,  M'here, 
or  at  Ca]>e  ITearne,  they  will  iind  a  cac/tt'  of  provision 
left  by  Sir  John  Richardson,  with  whom  this  party 
may  communicate,  and  whom  it  may  assist  in  com])le- 
ting  the  oxamiiuition  of  AVollaston  and  Victoria  Lands, 
or  return  to  England  by  the  route  he  shall  deem  most 
ndvisal'^e. 

Sir  Jauu^ji  Boss  was  intrusted  with  the  carrving  out 


OriNIo.NS    AND   Si:0(iK.STI0N8. 


211) 


the 


the 


out 


of  this  Kcarch,  in  the  Kntiu-prise  juul  Ii)vc6tif,'ator,  niid 
aji  {U'count  of  tlu!  vuya<:;u  ami  ])i'ot'c!c(liii;!;K  of  theses  ves- 
sels uill  he  found  recorded  in  its  chronological  c»rder. 

The  folloMinjir  loiter  from  Dr.  liichard  Km*};  to  the 
Lords  of  the  Admiralty  contains  some  useful  su<^<i;es. 
tious,  althou<rh  it  ib  mixed  uj)  with  u  good  deal  of  c^ih 
tibtical  renuirk :  — 

«17,  SavlUe  J^ow,  FrJjruary,  1S4S. 

"'The  old  route  of  ]*arry,  throu<^h  J.ancaster  Sound 
and  IJarrow's  Strait,  as  far  as  t(>  the  last  land  on  its 
southern  shore,  and  thence  in  a  direct  line  to  JJehrin^'a 
Sti-aits,  is  the  route  ordered  to  be  pursued  by  jM-unk- 
Hn.';'; 

"The  fi^allant  officer  has  thus  been  dispatched  to  push 
his  adventurous  way  between  Melville  Island  and 
Banks'  Land,  which  Sir  K.  Parry  attempted  for  two 
years  unsuccessfully.  After  much  toil  and  hardship, 
and  the  best  consideration  that  great  man  could  give 
to  the  subject,  he  recorded,  at  the  moment  of  retreat, 
in  indelible  characters,  these  impressive  thoughts : 
MVe  have  been  lying  near  our  present  station,  with 
an  easterly  wind  blowing  fresh,  for  thirty-six  hours 
together,  and  although  this  was  considerably  oft'  the 
land,  the  ice  had  not  during  the  whole  of  that  time 
moved  a  single  yard  from  the  shore,  aiibrding  a  proof 
that  there  was  no  space  in  which  the  ice  was  at  liberty 
to  move  LO  the  westward.  The  navigation  of  this  part 
of  the  Polar  Sea  is  only  to  be  performed  by  watching 
the  occasional  opening  between  the  ice  and  the  shore, 
md  therefore,  a  continuity  of  land  is  essential  for  this 
purpose;  such  a  continuity  of  land,  which  was  here 
about  to  fail,  as  must  necessarily  be  furnished  by  the 
northern  coast  of  America,  in  whatsoever  latitude  it 
may  be  found.'  Assuming,  therefore,  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin has  been  arrested  between  Melville  Island  and 
Banks'  Land,  w'here  Sir  E.  Parry  was  arrested  by  dif- 
ficulties which  he  considered  insurmountable,  and  hf 
has  followed  the  advice  of  that  gallant  ofiicer,  and 

*  BaiTow's  Arctic  Voyages,  p.  H. 


^.. 


220 


PROdRKSS    OF   AKCTIO    DISCOVKKY. 


nuvdo  for  the  contimiity  of  Amcricft,  bo  will  have 
turned  the  ih'owh  of  his  vessel  south  und  west,  accord- 
ing as  BauKs'  Lund  tends  for  Victoria  or  Wolhistou 
J.iinds.  It  is  here,  therefore,  that  we  may  expect  to 
iind  the  expedition  wrecked,  wiienco  they  will  make 
in  tlieir  boats  for  the  western  land  of  North  Somerset, 
if  that  land  should  not  be  too  far  distant. 

''''In  order  to  save  the  party  from  tiie  ordeal  of  a 
fourth  winter,  when  starvation  must  be  their  lot,  I 
propose  to  undertake  the  boldest  journey  that  has  ever 
been  attempted  in  the  northern  regions  of  America, 
one  which  was  justifiable  only  from  the  circumstances. 
I  propose  to  attempt  to  reach  the  western  land  of  North 
Somerset  or  the  eastern  portion  of  Victoria  Land,  as 
may  be  deemed  advisable,  by  the  close  of  the  ap- 
proaching summer;  to  accom])li8h,  in  fact,  in  one  sum- 
mer that  which  has  not  been  done  under  two. 

"  I  rest  my  hope  of  success  in  the  performance  of 
this  Herculean  task  upon  the  fact,  that  I  possess  an  in- 
timate knowledge  of  the  country  and  the  people  through 
wliich  I  shall  have  to  pass,  the  health  to  stand  the 
rigor  of  the  climate,  and  tlie  stren^jth  to  undergo  the 
fatigue  of  mind  and  body  to  which  1  must  bo  subjected. 
A  glance  at  the  map  of  North  America,  directed  to 
Eehring's  Strait  in  the  Pacific,  Barrow's  Strait  in  the 
Atlantic,  and  the  land  of  North  Somerset  betw^een 
them,  will  make  it  apparent  that,  to  render  assistance 
to  a  party  situated  on  tiiat  coast,  there  are  two  ways  by 
pea  and  one  by  land.  Of  the  two  sea-ways,  the  route 
by  the  Pacific  is  altogether  out  of  the  question  ;  it  is  an 
idea  of  by-gone  days  ;  while  that  by  the  Atlantic  is  so 
doubtful  of  success,  that  it  is  merely  necessary,  to  put 
this  assistance  aside  as  far  from  certain,  to  mention  that 
Sir  John  Ross  found  Barrow's  Strait  closed  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1832.  To  a  land  journey,  then,  alone  we  can 
look  for  success  ;  for  the  failure  of  a  land  journey 
would  be  the  exception  to  the  rule,  while  the  sea  expe- 
dition would  be  the  rule  itself.  To  the  western  land  of 
North  Somerset,  where  Sir  John  Franklin  is  likely  to 
be  found,  the  Great  Fish  River  is  the  direct  and  only 


a 


OI'IMONS    AM)   SniOKSTIONS. 


221 


fexpe- 
Idof 
^y  to 


route  ;  and  altli()Uij;h  the  approach  to  it  in  tliroupjli  a 
country  too  poor  and  too  dilricult  of  access  to  admit  of 
the  transport  of  ])rovisii>n8,  it  may  bo  made  tlie  medi- 
um of  communication  between  the  lost  expedition  and 
tlio  civilized  worhl,  and  pjuides  ])e  thus  placed  at  their 
disposal  to  convoy  them  to  the  hunting  grounds  of  tho 
Imlians.     Witiiout  such  guides  it  is  imi)ossible  that 
they  can  reach  these  hunting  grounds.     It  was  by  tlio 
Great  Fish  Kiver  tliat  I  reached  tlio  Polar  Sea  while 
actin<^  as  second  oiUcer,  in  search  of  Sir  John  Tloss. 
I  feel  it  my  duty,  tlierefore,  as  one  of  two  ollicers  so 
peculiarly   circumstanced,  at  the  present  moment  to 
place  my  views  on  record,  as  an  earnest  of  my  sincer- 
ity.    Even  if  it  should  bo  determined  to  try  and  force 
provision  vessels  through  Barrow's  Strait,  and  scour 
tlie  vicinity  in  boats  for  the  lost  expedition,  and  should 
it  succeed,  it  will  be  satisfactory  to  know  that  such  a 
mission  as  I  have  proposed  should  be  adopted  ;  while, 
if  these  attempts  should  fail,  and  the  service  under  con 
sideration  be  put  aside,  it  will  bo  a  source  of  regret  • 
that  not  only  the  nation  at  largo  will  feel,  but  thowdiolo 
civilized  world.     When  tliis  regret  is  felt,  and  every 
soul  has  perished,  such  a  mission  as  I  have  proposed 
will  l-'O  urged  again  and  again  for  adopti(»n  ;  for  it  is 
impo-sible  that  the  country  will  rest  satisfied  until  a 
search  be  made  foi'  the  remains  of  tlie  lost  expedition. 
"  The  fact  that  all  lands  which  have  a  western  aspect 
are  generally  ice-free,  which  I  dwelt  largely  upon  when 
Sir  Jolin  Franklin  sailed,  must  have  had  weight  with 
tlie  gallant  officer  ;  ho  will  therefore,  on  finding  him- 
self in  a  serious  difficulty,  while  pushing  along  the  east- 
ern side  of  Victoria  Land,  at  once  fall  upon  the  M'ostern 
land  of  North  Somerset,  as  a  refuge  ground,  if  he  have 
the  opportunity.     Tho  eftbrt  by  Behring"'s  Strait  and 
Banks'  Land  is  praiseworthy  in  attempt,  !)ut  forlorn  in 
hope.     In  the  former  effort,  it  is  a-sumed  tlsat  Sir  John 
Franklin  has  made  the  passage,  and  that  his  arrest  is 
between  tho  Mackenzie  Iliver  and  I-'-y  Cape  ;  in  tlie 
latter,  that  Sir  James  Eoss  will  reach  Banks'  Laud,  and 
trace  its  continuity  to  Victoria  and  AVollaston  Land, 


PIlor.UESS   OF   AKCTIO  mSCOVERY. 


I-- 


h: 


and  tlius  make  tlic  '  passage'  Fii'st,  "Wc  liavo  no  rea- 
son to  believe  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  Sir  James 
]u)ss  will  be  more  fortunate  than  their  predecessors, 
and  we  cannot  trust  to  their  success.  Secondly,  AVe 
are  unable  to  assume  that  Sir  James  Iloss  will  reach 
Bank's  Land  ;  Sir  E.  Parry  was  unable  to  reach  it,  and 
only  viewed  it  from  a  distance  ;  much  less  are  we  able 
to  assume  that  the  ijallant  otticer  wnll  tind  a  hiifh  road 
to  Victoria  Land,  which  is  altogether  a  terra  incognita. 

"  Ml".  T.  Simpson,  who  surveyed  the  arctic  coast 
comprised  between  the  Coppermine  and  Castor  and 
Pollux  Kivers,  has  set  that  (piestion  at  rest,  and  is  the 
oidy  authority  upon  the  subject.  '  A  further  explora- 
tion,' remarks  Mr.  Simpson,  from  the  most  eastern  limit 
of  his  journey, '  would  necessarily  demand  the  whole 
time  and  energies  of  another  expedition,  having  some 
point  of  retreat  nmch  nearer  to  the  scene  of  operations 
tiuiii  Cireat  Pear  Lake,  and  (Ireat  Bear  Lake  is  to  bo 
the  retreat  of  Sir  John  Richardson.' 

"  AVhat  retreat  could  Mr.  Simpson  have  meant  but 
Great  Slave  Lake,  the  retreat  of  the  land  party  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Ross?  and  what  other  road  to  the  unex- 
plored ground,  the  WTstern  land  of  North  Somerset, 
could  that  traveler  have  meant  than  Great  Fish  River, 
that  stream  wdnch  I  have  pointed  out  as  the  ice  free 
and  high  road  to  the  land  where  tlie  lost  expedition  is 
likely  to  be  found, —  to  be  the  boundary  of  that  pass- 
age which  for  three  and  a  half  centuries  we  have  been 
in  vain  endeavoring  to  reach  in  ships?" 

Captain  Sir  AV.  E.  Parry,  to  whom  Dr.  King's  pro- 
posal was  submitted  by  the  Admiralty,  thus  comments 
on  1+,  : — 

"  My  former  opinion,  quoted  by  Dr.  King,  as  to  the 
difficulty  of  ships  jjcnetrating  to  the  westward  beyond 
Cape  Dundas,  (the  southwestern  extremity  of  Melville 
Island.)  remains  unaltered  ;  and  I  should  expect  that 
Sir  John  Franklin,  being  aware  of  this  ditBculty,  would 
use  his  utmost  efforts  to  get  to  the  southward  an<l  west- 
ward before  he  a])proachod  that  point,  that  is,  between 
the  100th  and  llOth  degree  of  longitude.     The  more  I 


OPINIONS   AND   PUGOHSriOXS. 


2'2'd 


pass- 
been 


have  coiisidcM-ed  this  subject,  (whicli  lius  naturally  occu- 
]>it'(l  much  of  my  attention  lately,)  the  more  dillicult  1 
iiiid  it  to  conjecture  wiiere  tiie  expedition  nuiy  have 
!stoi>j)od,  either  with  or  witiiout  any  serious  accident  to 
the  ships  ;  hut  as  no  information  has  readied  us  up  to 
this  time,  I  conceive  that  there  is  some  considerable 
j)robability  of  their  beinuj  situated  somewhere  l)etween 
the  longitude  I  have  just  named  ;  how  far  they  may 
liave  penetrated  to  the  southward,  between  those  meri- 
dians, must  be  a  matter  of  speculation,  d(;pending  on 
tiie  state  of  the  ice,  and  tiie  existence  of  land  in  a  space 
Jiitherto  blank  on  our  uuips. 

"  Be  this  as  it  may,  I  consider  it  not  improbable,  as 
Buj^gested  by  Dr.  King,  that  an  attempt  will  be  made 
])y  them  to  fall  back  on  the  western  coast  of  IS^orth 
Somerset,  wherever  that  may  be  found,  as  being  the 
nearest  point  aftbrding  a  hope  of  conununication,  either 
witli  whalers  or  with  ships  sent  expressly  in  search  of 
the  expedition. 

"Agreeing  thus  far  with  Dr.  King,  I  am  compelled 
to  differ  with  him  entirely  as  to  the  readiest  mode  of 
reaching  tliat  coast,  because  1  feel  satisfied  tiiat,  with 
the  resources  of  the  expedition  now  ef]ui])])ing  under 
Sir  James  Iloss,  the  energy,  skill,  and  intelligence  of 
that  officer  will  render  it  a  matter  of  no  very  diflicult 
enterprise  to  examine  the  coast  in  question,  either  with 
his  siiips,  boats,  or  traveling  parties  ;  whereas  an  at- 
tempt to  reach  that  coast  by  an  expedition  from  the 
continent  of  America  must,  as  it  appears  to  me,  be  ex- 
treniely  hazardous  and  uncertain.  And  as  I  under- 
stand  it  to  be  their  lordships'  intention  to  direct  Sir 
James  Tloss  to  station  one  of  his  ships  somewhere  about 
Ca])e  Walker,  while  the  other  proceeds  on  the  search, 
and  likewise  to  ecpiip  his  boats  specially  for  the  pur- 
pose of  examining  the  various  coasts  and  inlets,  I  am 
decidedly  of  o])inion,  that,  as  regards  the  western  coast 
of  Xorth  Somerset,  this  ])lan  will  be  much  more  likely 
to  answer  the  proposed  object,  tlum  any  overland 
expedition.  This  olject  will,  of  course,  be  the  more 
easily  accomplished  in  case  of  Sir  James  Koss  finding 


mm 


i 


224 


PKOGltliSS  OF  AKCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


i 
I 

\ 


i\ 


the  western  coast  of  North  Somerset  navigaljle  for  hia 
ships. 

"  In  regard  to  Dr.  King's  suggestion  respecting  Vic 
toria  Land  and  Wollaston  Land,  8upi)osing  Sir  Jolm 
Franklin's  ships  to  have  been  arrested  between  the 
meridians  to  which  I  have  already  alluded,  it  does 
seem,  by  an  insi)ection  of  the  map,  not  improbable  that 
parties  may  attempt  to  penetrate  to  the  continent  in 
that  direction  ;  but  not  being  well  acquainted  with  the 
facilities  for  reacliing  the  coast  of  America  opposite 
those  lands  in  the  manner  proposed  by  Dr.  King,  I  am 
not  competent  to  judge  of  its  practicability." 

Nearly  the  whole  of  the  west  coast  of  North  Somer- 
set and  Boothia  was,  (it  will  be  found  hereafter,)  ex- 
plored by  parties  in  boats  detached  from  Sir  James 
lioss's  ships  in  1849. 

I  apj^end,  also,  the  most  important  portions  of  Sir 
James  Ross's  remarks  on  Dr.  King's  plan. 

"  Dr.  King  begins  by  assuming  that  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin has  attempted  to  push  the  ships  through  to  the  west- 
ward, between  Melville  Island  and  Banks'  Land,  (al- 
though directly  contrary  to  his  instructions;)  that  hav- 
ing been  arrested  by  insurmountable  difficulties,  he 
would  have  '  turned  the  prows  of  his  vessels  to  the 
south  and  M'est,  according  as  Bunks'  Land  tends  for 
Victoria  or  Wollaston  Land  ;'  and  having  been  wrecked, 
or  from  any  other  cause  obliged  to  abandon  their  ships, 
their  crews  would  take  to  tlie  boats,  and  make  for  the 
west  coast  of  North  Somerset. 

"  If  the  expedition  had  failed  to  ])enetrate  to  the 
M'estward  between  Banks'  Land  and  Melviile  Island,  it 
is  very  ])robable  it  would  have  next  attempted  to  gain 
the  continent  by  a  more  southerly  course  ;  and  suppos- 
ing that,  after  making  only  small  progress,  (say  100 
miles,)  to  the  southwest,  it  should  have  been  then  finally 
stopped  or  wrecked,  the  calamity  will  have  occurred 
in  about  latitude  72  J°  N.,  and  longitude  115°  W.  This 
pt)int  is  only  280  miles  from  the  Copjiormine  Biver 
and  420  miles  from  the  Mackenzie,  either  of  whicl 
would,  therefore,  Ijc  easily  attainable,  and  at  each  of 


•i 


OriNIONS   AND   SUGGK8TI0NS. 


09t 


the 


^vllic]l,  abundance  of  provision  might  be  procured  by 
tlieni,  and  their  return  to  Enghind  a  measure  of  no 
great  ditHculty. 

"  At  the  point  above  mentioned,  the  distance  from 
the  west  coast  of  North  Somerset  is  ])robably  about  300 
miles,  and  tlie  mouth  of  the  Great  Fish  River  full  500 ; 
at  neither  of  these  places  could  they  Impe  to  obtain  a 
single  day's  provisions  for  so  large  a  pji  \v  ;  and  Sir 
Joiin  Franklin's  intimate  knowledge  <'f  the  impossibil- 
ity of  ascending  that  river,  or  obtaining  any  food  for 
his  party  in  passing  through  the  Barren  grounds,  would 
concur  in  deterring  him  from  attemrtinn:  to  gain  either 
ot  these  points. 

"  I  think  it  most  probable  that,  from  the  situation 
pointed  out,  he  would,  when  compelled  to  abandon  his 
ships,  endeavor  in  the  boats  to  retrace  his  6te]>8,  and 
passing  through  the  channel  by  which  he  had  advanced, 
and  which  we  have  always  found  of  easy  navigation, 
seek  the  whale  ships  which  annually  visit  the  west  coast 
of  Baflin's  Bay. 

"  It  is  far  more  probable,  however,  that  Sir  John 
Franklin,  in  obedience  to  his  instructions,  would  en- 
deavor to  push  the  shi))s  to  the  south  and  west  as  soon 
as  they  passed  Cape  AValker.  and  the  consequence  of 
such  a  measure,  owing  to  the  known  prevalence  of 
westerly  wind,  and  the  drift  of  the  main  body  of  the 
ice,  would  be  (in  my  opinion)  their  inevitable  embarrass- 
ment, and  if  he  persevered  in  that  direction  which  he 
probably  would  do,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  stating  my 
conviction  he  would  never  be  able  to  extricate  his 
ships,  and  would  ultimately  be  obliged  to  abandon  them. 
It  is  therefore  in  latitude  73°  N.  and  longitude  105°  W. 
that  we  may  expect  to  find  them  involved  in  the  ice, 
or  shut  up  in  some  harbor.  This  is  almost  the  only 
point  in  which  it  is  likely  they  would  be  detained,  or 
from  which  it  would  not  be  ])Ossible  to  convey  informa- 
tion of  their  situation  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Settlements. 

"  If,  then,  we  suppose  the  crews  of  the  ships  should 
be  compelled,  either  this  autumn  or  next  spring,  to 
abandon  their  vessels  at  or  near  this  point,  they  woul<i 


226 


PROGRESS    OF    ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


most  assuredly  endeavor,  in  their  boats,  to  reach  Lan- 
caster Sound ;  but  I  cannot  conceive  any  position  in 
wliich  they  could  be  ]ilaced  from  which  they  would 
make  for  the  Great  Fish  River,  or  at  which  any  party 
descending  that  river  would  be  likely  to  o/ertake  them ; 
and  even  if  it  did,  of  what  advantage  could  it  be  to 
them  ? 

"  If  Dr.  King  and  his  party,  in  their  single  canoe, 
did  fall  in  with  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  party  on  the 
west  coast  of  North  Somerset,  how  does  he  propose  to 
assist  them  ?  he  would  barely  have  sufficient  provision 
for  his  own  party,  and  would  more  probably  be  in  a 
condition  to  require  rather  than  afford  relief.  He  could 
only  tell  them  what  Sir  John  Franklin  already  knows, 
from  former  experience,  far  better  than  Dr.  King,  that  it 
would  be  impossible  for  so  large  a  party,  or  indeed  any 
party  not  previously  provided,  to  travel  across  the  bar- 
ren grounds  to  any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Settlements." 

"  All  that  has  been  done  by  the  way  of  search  since 
February,  1848,  tends,"  persists  Dr.  King,  "  to  draw 
attention  closer  and  closer  to  the  western  land  of  North 
Somerset,  as  the  position  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  and  to 
the  Great  Fish  (or  Back)  Kiver,  as  the  high  road  to 
reach  it." 

Dr.  King  has  twice  proposed  to  the  Admiralty  to 
proceed  on  the  search  by  this  route.  "  It  would,"  he 
states,  "  be  the  liappiest  moment  of  my  life  (and  my 
delight  at  being  selected  from  a  long  list  of  volunteers, 
for  the  relief  of  Sir  John  Ross,  was  very  great)  if  their 
lordships  would  allow  me  to  go  by  my  old  route,  the 
Great  Fish  River,  to  attempt  to  save  human  life  a  sec- 
ond time  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea.  What  I  did 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Ross  is  the  best  earnest  of  what 
I  could  do  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin." 

A  meeting  of  those  officers  and  gentlemen  most  con- 
versant with  arctic  voyages  was  convened  by  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  on  the  17th  of 
January,  18-19,  at  which  the  following  were  present :  — 
Rea»'-Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  K.  C.  B.,  Captain 
Sir  W.  E.  Parry,  R.  N.,  Captain  Sir  George  Back,  R. 


OriXIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


227 


N.,  Cajjtain  Sir  E.  Belcher,  R.  K.,  Colonel  Sabine,  E,. 
A.,  and  the  Ilev.  Dr.  Scoresby. 

A  very  pretty  painting,  containing  portraits  of  all  the 
principal  arctic  voya<ier8  in  consultation  on  these  mo- 
mentous matters,  has  been  made  by  Mr.  Pearse,  artist, 
of  53,  Berners  Street,  Oxford  Street,  which  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  beautiful  Arctic  Panorama  of 
Mr.  Burford,  in  Leicester  Square,  will  also  give  a 
graphic  idea  of  the  scenery  and  appearance  of  the  icy 
regions;  the  whole  being  designed  from  authentic 
sketches  by  Lieut.  Browne,  now  of  the  Resolute,  and 
wlio  was  out  in  the  Enterprise  in  her  trip  in  1848,  and 
also  with  Sir  James  lloss  in  his  antarctic  voyage. 

The  expedition  under  Sir  James  Russ  having  re- 
turned unsuccessful,  otiier  measures  of  relief  were  now 
determined  on,  and  the  opinions  of  the  leading  officers 
again  taken. 

Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  in  his  report  to  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  on  November 
24th,  1841),  observes:  — 

"  There  are  four  ways  only  in  which  it  is  likely  that 
the  Erebus  and  Terror  would  have  been  lost  —  by  fire, 
by  sunken  rocks,  by  storm,  or  by  being  crushed  be- 
tween two  fields  of  ice.  Both  vessels  Ma)uld  scarcely 
have  taken  fire  together ;  if  one  of  them  had  struck  on  a 
rock  the  other  would  have  avoided  the  danger.  Storms 
in  those  narrow  seas,  encumbered  with  ice,  raise  no 
swell,  and  could  produce  no  such  disaster ;  and  there- 
fore, by  the  fourth  cause  alone  could  the  two  vessels 
have  been  at  once  destroyed ;  and  even  in  that  case 
the  crews  would  have  escaped  upon  the  ice  (as  ha])pens 
every  year  to  the  whalers  ;)  they  would  have  saved 
their  loose  boats,  and  reached  some  part  of  the  American 
shores.  As  no  traces  of  any  such  event  have  been  found 
on  any  part  of  those  shores,  it  may  therefore  be  safely 
affirmed  that  one  ship  at  least,  and  both  the  crews, 
are  still  in  existence;  and  therefore  the  point  where 
they  now  are  is  the  great  matter  for  consideration. 

"Their  orders  would  have  carried  them  toward  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  then  out  to  the  westward,  where  it  is 


1    t 


i    ! 


1 


228 


PJtOGKESS   OF  AKCriC   DISCO VERl 


therefore  probable  that  they  are  cntanglcv>  among 
islands  ana  ice.  For  should  they  have  been  arrested 
at  some  intermediate  place,  for  instance,  Cape  Walker, 
or  at  one  of  the  northern  chain  of  islands,  they  would, 
undoubtedly,  in  the  course  of  the  three  following  years, 
have  contrived  some  method  of  sending  notices  of  theii 
position  to  the  shores  of  North  Somerset  or  to  Barrow's 
Strait. 

"If  they  had  reached  much  to  the  southward  of 
Bank's  Land,  they  would  surely  have  communicated 
with  the  tribes  on  Mackenzie  River ;  and  if,  failing  to 
get  to  the  westward  or  eouthward,  they  had  returned 
with  tlie  intention  of  penetrating  through  Wellington 
Channel,  they  would  have  detached  parties  on  the  ice 
toward  Barrow's  Strait,  in  order  to  have  deposited 
statements  of  their  intentions. 

"  The  general  conclusion,  therefore,  remains,  that  they 
are  still  locked  up  in  the  Archipelago  to  the  westward 
of  Melville  Island.  Now,  it  is  well  known  that  the 
state  of  the  weather  alternates  between  the  op])osite 
sides  of  Northern  America,  being  mild  on  the  one  when 
rigorous  on  the  other ;  and  accordingly,  during  the  two 
last  years,  which  have  been  unusually  severe  in  Baffin's 
Bay,  the  United  States  whalers  were  successfully  trav- 
ersing the  Polar  Sea  to  the  northward  of  Behring's 
Straits.  The  same  severe  weather  may  possibly  prevail 
on  the  eastern  side  during  the  summer  of  1850,  and  if 
so,  it  is  obvious  that  an  attempt  should  be  now  made 
by  the  western  opening,  and  not  merely  to  receive  the 
two  ships,  if  they  should  be  met  coming  out  (as  for- 
merly,) but  to  advance  in  the  direction  of  Melville 
Island,  resolutely  entering  the  ice,  and  employing  every 
possible  expedient  by  sledging  parties,  by  recomioitering 
balloons,  and  by  blasting  the  ice,  to  communicate  with 
them. 

"Tliese  vessels  should  be  intrepidly  commanded, 
eftectively  manned,  and  supplied  with  the  best  means 
for  traveling  across  the  ice  to  the  English  or  to  the 
Rnssian  settlements,  as  it  will  be  of  tlie  2:reatest  impor- 
tance to  bo  iiii'ormed  of  what  progress  the  expedition 


OriNIONS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


229 


witH 


-( 


mpor- 
ditioii 


has  made;  and  for  this  purpose  likewise  the  Plover 
will  be  of  material  service,  lying  at  some  advanced 
point  near  Icy  Cape,  and  ready  to  receive  intelligence, 
and  to  convey  it  to  Petropaulski  or  to  Panama. 

"These  vessels  should  enter  Behring's  Straits  before 
the  first  of  August,  and  therefore  every  eftbrt  should 
be  now  made  to  dispatch  them  from  England  before 
Christmas.  They  might  water  at  the  Falkland  Islands, 
and  again  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  they  would 
be  ready  to  receive  additional  instructions  via  Panama, 
by  one  of  the  Pacific  steamers,  and  by  which  vessel 
they  might  be  pushed  on  some  little  distance  to  the 
northward. 

"  It  seems  to  me  likely  that  the  ships  have  been  push- 
ing on,  summer  after  summer,  in  the  direction  of  JBehr- 
ing's  Straits,  and  are  detained  somewhere  in  the  space 
southwestward  of  Banks'  Land.  On  the  other  hand, 
should  they,  after  the  first  or  second  summer,  have  been 
unsuccessful  in  that  direction,  they  may  have  attempted 
to  proceed  to  the  northward,  either  through  Wellington 
Channel,  or  through  some  other  of  the  openings  among 
the  same  group  of  islands.  I  do  not  myself  attach  any 
superior  importance  to  Wellington  Channel  as  regards 
the  northwest  passage,  but  I  understand  that  Sir  John 
Franklin  did,  and  that  he  strongly  expressed  to  Lord 
Haddington  his  intention  of  attempting  that  route,  if 
he  should  fail  in  effecting  the  more  direct  passage  to 
the  westward. 

"The  ships  having  been  fully  victualed  for  three 
years,  the  resources  may,  by  due  precautions,  have 
been  extended  to  four  years  for  the  whole  crews ;  but 
it  has  occurred  to  mo,  since  I  had  the  honor  of  confer- 
ring with  their  lordships,  that,  if  their  numbers  have 
been  gradually  diminished  to  any  considerable  extent 
by  death,  (a  contingency  which  is  but  too  probable,  con- 
sidering their  unparalleled  detention  in  the  ice,)  the 
resource?  would  be  proportionably  extended  for  the 
survivors,  whom  it  might,  therefore,  be  found  expedient 
to  transfer  to  one  of  the  ships,  with  all  the  remaining 
stores,  and  with  that  one  ship  to  continue  the  endeavor 


I 


m 


230 


PROORES8    OF   AECTIC   DISCOVKRY. 


1^1 


|i    ) ' 


:     i 


I 


to  pr.sh  westward,  or  to  return  to  tlie  eastward,  as  cir- 
cumstances might  render  expedient ;  in  that  case,  tlio 
necessity  for  quitting  both  the  ships  in  the  past  sum- 
mer mi^ht  not  improbably  liave  been  obviated. 

"  Under  these  circumstances,  which,  it  must  be  admit- 
ted, amount  to  no  more  than  mere  conjecture,  it  seems 
to  me  expedient  still  to  prosecute  the  search  in  both 
directions,  namely,  by  way  of  Behring's  Strait  (to  which 
I  look  with  the  strongest  hope,)  and  also  by  that  of 
Barrow's  Strait.  In  the  latter  direction,  it  ought,  I 
think,  to  be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  more  than  usual 
difficulties  with  which  Sir  James  Ross  had  to  contend, 
have,  in  reality,  left  ns  with  very  little  more  informa- 
tion than  before  he  left  England,  and  I  cannot  contem- 
plate witliout  serious  apprehension,  leaving  that  opening 
without  still  further  search  in  the  ensuing  spring,  in 
case  the  mis^^ing  crews  have  fallen  back  to  the  eastern 
coast  of  North  Somerset,  where  tlioy  would  naturally 
look  for  supplies  to  bo  deposited  for  them,  in  addition 
to  the  chance  of  iinding  some  of  those  left  bv  the  Furv. 
For  the  purpose  of  further  pursuing  the  search  by  way 
of  Barrow's  Strait,  perhaps  two  small  vessels  of  150  or 
200  tons  might  sntHce,  but  they  must  be  square  rigged 
for  the  navigation  among  the  ice.  Of  course  tlie  object 
of  snch  vessels  would  be  nearly  that  which  Sir  James 
Ross's  endeavors  have  failed  to  accomplish ;  and  the 
provisions,  ifec,  left  by  that  officer  at  Whaler  Point, 
as  well  as  any  which  may  be  deposited  in  that  neigh- 
borhood by  the  North  Star,  would  grently  add  to  tlie  re- 
sources, facilitate  the  operations,  and  lessen  the  risk  of 
any  attempt  made  in  that  direction. 

"  If,  however,  there  be  time  to  get  sliips  to  Behring's 
Straits  by  the  first  M'eek  in  August,  1850,  which  would 
perhaps  require  the  aid  of  steam  vessels  to  accomplish 
with  any  degree  of  certainty,  I  recommend  that  the 
Enterprise  and  Investigator  be  forthwith  equipped  and 
dispatched  there,  with  instructions  to  push  through  the 
ice  to  the  E.  N.  E.  as  far  as  possible  in  the  ensuing  sea- 
son, with  the  hope  of  meeting  with  at  least  one  of  the 
ships,  or  any  of  the  ^jarties  which  may  have  been 


OPINIONS  AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


281 


Mgh- 


Olllfl 

)lish 
the 

and 
the 

the 
i)een 


detached  from  them.  Tliis  attempt  hp"  .jver  yet  been 
made  by  any  Bhips,  and  1  cling  very  strongly  to  the 
belief  that  such  an  eli'ort  might  be  attended  with  buc- 
cesa  in  rescuing  at  least  a  portion  of  our  people. 

"My  rea-^on  for  urging  this  upon  their  Loi'dships  is, 
that  the  admirable  instructions  under  which  the  Plover, 
assisted  by  the  Herald,  is  acting,  embraces  only  the 
search  of  the  coast  line  eastward  from  Icy  Cape;  since 
the  boats  and  baidars  caimot  effect  any  thing  except  by 
creeping  along  as  op])ortunitie8  offer,  between  the  ice 
and  the  land,  so  that  this  plan  of  operations  meets  only 
the  contingency  of  parties  reaching,  or  nearly  reaching, 
the  land  ;  whereas  the  chance  of  rescue  would,  as  it 
appears  to  me,  be  immensely  increased  by  ships  push- 
ing on,  clear  of  the  coast,  toward  Banks'  Land  and 
Melville  Island,  as  far  at  least  as  might  be  practicable 
in  the  best  five  or  six  wrecks  of  the  season  of  1850." 

Captain  Parrv  savs — "Although  this  is  the  first  at- 
tempt  ever  made  to  enter  the  ice  in  this  direction,  with 
ships  properly  equipped  for  the  purpose,  there  is  no 
reason  to  anticipate  any  greater  ditliculties  in  this  navi- 
gation than  those  encountered  in  other  parts  of  the 
Sjorth  Polar  Sea;  and,  even  in  the  event  of  not  suc- 
ceeding in  reaching  Banks'  Land  in  the  summer  of  the 
present  year,  it  may  be  possil)le  to  make  such  progress 
as  to  afford  a  reasonable  hope  of  effecting  that  object 
in  the  following  season  (1851.)  Luleed  it  is  possible 
that,  from  the  well  known  fact  of  the  climate  being 
more  temperate  in  a  given  parallel  of  latitude,  in  going 
westward  from  the  Mackenzie  River,  some  comparative 
advantage  may  be  derived  in  the  navigation  of  this 
part  of  the  Polar  Sea. 

"  It  is  of  importance  to  the  security  of  the  ships  and 
of  their  crews  that  they  should  winter  in  some  harbor 
or  bay  not  at  a  distance  from  land,  where  the  ice  might 
be  in  motion  during  the  winter  ;  and  it  will  be  desira- 
ble, should  no  land  be  discovered  fit  for  this  purpose, 
in  the  space  at  present  unexplored  between  Point  Bar- 
row and  Biinks'  Land,  that  endeavors  should  be  made  to 
reach  the  continent  about  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie 


Mi 


» 

►'<;«'<,'- 

M 

m:'^' 

p 

m^^  ■ 

f.|t 

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■■1/fjl 

.'.'.  i- ,  f  .^ 

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■■■ti  ^1* 

1  .r'  jr.. 

■t  H«  >  ; 

m 

m- 

232 


ri  vORKSa   OF   AKCTIC  l)18C0Vi:UT. 


Iwi\t'r,  or  further  eastward,  toward  Liveri)ool  Bay, 
where  tliere  is  reason  to  sui)pose  tliat  suffieieiit  slielter 
may  he  foiiiul,  and  in  wliich  neighhorliood,  it  ai)|)ear8, 
tliere  is  generally  no  ice  to  he  8een  from  tlie  shore  for 
about  six  weeks  in  the  months  of  August  and  Septem- 
ber. Sir  John  Franklin's  narrative  of  his  second  jour 
ney,  that  of  Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson,  and  the 
Admiralty  Charts,  will  furnish  the  requisite  hydro- 
graphical  information  relative  to  this  line  of  coast,  sc 
tar  as  it  has  been  attained. 

"  Tiie  utmost  economy  should  be  exercised  in  the  use 
of  provisions  and  fuel  during  the  time  the  ships  are  in 
winter  quarters  ;  and  if  they  should  winter  on  or  near 
the  continent,  there  would  i)robably  be  an  opportunity 
of  increasing  their  stock  of  provisions  by  means  of 
game  or  fish,  and  likewise  of  fuel,  by  drift  or  other 
wood,  to  some  considerable  amount. 

"If  the  progress  of  tlio  ehips  in  1850  has  been  con- 
siderable— for  instance,  as  far  as  tlie  meridian  of  120"^ 
W. —  the  probal)iIity  is,  that  the  most  practicable  way 
of  returning  to  England  will  be,  still  to  push  on  in  the 
same  direction  during  the  whole  season  of  1851,  with 
a  view  to  reach  Burrow's  Strait,  and  take  advantage, 
if  necessary,  of  the  resources  left  by  Captain  Sir  Jamos 
lloss  at  Whaler  Point,  near  Leopold  Harbor ;  if  not  the 
same  season,  at  least  after  a  second  winter.  If,  on  the 
other  hand,  small  progress  should  have  been  made  to 
the  eastward  at  the  close  of  the  present  summer,  it 
might  be  prudent  that  when  half  the  navigable  season 
of  1851  shall  have  expired,  no  further  attempts  should 
be  made  in  proceeding  to  the  eastward,  and  that  the 
remaining  half  of  that  season  should  be  occupied  in 
returning  to  the  westward,  with  a  view  to  escape  from 
the  ice  by  way  of  Behring's  Straits  after  the  winter  of 
1851-52,  so  as  not  to  incur  the  risk  of  j^assing  a  third 
winter  in  the  ice. 

"  During  the  summer  season,  the  most  vigilant  look- 
out should  be  kept  from  the  mast-heads  of  both  shi])s 
night  and  day,  not  only  for  the  missing  ships,  but  for 
any  detached  parties  belonging  to  them  ;  and  during 


(H'lNluJJS    AND   SUOGKSTIONS. 


233 


the  few  hours  of  (liu'kiiess  which  prevail  toward  the  close 
of  each  seuson^s  iuivi<ijation,  and  also  when  in  winter 
(juarters,  signals,  by  tires,  blue  lights,  rockets  or  guns, 
should  be  made  as  the  means  of  pointing  out  the  posi- 
tion of  tiie  ships  to  any  detached  parties  belonging  to 
the  missinj'  expedition.  And  in  the  spring  before  the 
fillips  can  be  released  from  tlie  ice,  searching  parties 
migiit  be  sent  out  in  various  directions,  either  in  boats 
or  by  land,  to  examine  the  neigiiboring  coasts  and  inlets 
for  any  trace  of  the  missing  crews." 

Captain  Sir  George  Back  also  comments  (1st  of  De- 
cember, 1849,)  on  these  intentions,  in  a  letter  to  the  Sec- 
retary of  the  Admiralty  : — 

"  You  will  be  pleased.  Sir,  to  impress  upon  my  Lords 
Commissioners,  that  I  wholly  reject  all  and  every  idea 
of  any  attempts  on  the  part  of  Sir  John  Franklin  to 
send  boats  or  detachments  over  the  ice  to  any  part  of 
tiie  main-land  eastwa  "d  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  because 
I  can  say  from  experience,  that  no  toil-worn  and  ex- 
hausted party  could  have  the  least  chance  of  existence 
by  going  there. 

"  On  the  other  hand,  fi'om  my  knowledge  of  Sir  John 
Franldin,  (having  been  three  times  on  discovery  to- 
gether,) I  much  doubt  if  he  would  quit  liis  ship  at  all, 
except  in  a  boat ;  for  any  attempt  to  cross  the  ice  a  loHg 
distance  on  foot  would  be  tempting  death ;  and  it  is  too 
laborious  a  task  to  sledge  far  over  such  an  imeven  sur- 
face as  those  regions  generally  present.  That  great 
mortality  must  have  occurred,  and  that  one  ship,  as  Sir 
E.  Beaufort  hints  at,  may  be  lost,  are  greatly  to  be  feared  ; 
and,  as  on  all  former  expeditions,  if  the  survivors  are 
paralyzed  by  the  depressing  attacks  of  scurvy,  it  would 
then  be  impossible  for  them,  however  desirous  they 
miglit  be,  to  leave  the  ship,  which  must  thus  become 
their  last  most  anxious  abode. 

"If,  however,  open  water  should  have  allowed  Sir 
John  Franklin  to  have  resorted  to  his  boats,  then  I  am 
persuaded  he  would  make  for  either  the  Mackenzie 
River,  or,  which  is  far  more  likely,  from  the  almost 
certainty  he  must  have  felt  of  finding  provision,  Capo 
Clarence  and  Fury  Point. 


'3- 


MB 


'm 


•^H 


■-A,ri 


Ml 


lMi()CJKi:sS    (>K    AKCTIC    DlHt'OV  KliV. 


"I  am  awaro  that  tlio  wlmlt!  ciiaiu'os  of  lite  in  tiiis 
]iaiiit"iil  caso  (IcikmkI  on  t'ood  ;  Imt  when  1  ivlk'ct  on 
Sir  .lulin  Franklin's  t'nrnicr  (.'Xtraordinary  ]»rosi'rvation 
ninlor  niisorios  and  trials  ot*  tlic  inu.st  severe  description, 
livini^  often  on  serapsof  old  leather  and  other  refuse,  I 
cannot  des]iaM'of  ins  tindiiiii'  the  means  to  prolong  exist- 
ence till  aid  lie  liap]>ily  seni  him/' 

Dr.  Sir  .lohn  Uichardson  on  the  same  day  also  sends 
in  his  opini(»n,  as  re(Miested,  on  the  projuised  dispatch 
of  the  lt,nterj)risc  and  Investigator  to  JJehring's  Strait : 

"It  seems  to  me  to  be  very  flesiraltle  that  the  western 
shores  of  the  Archi])elaij:o  of  Parrv's  Islands  should  he 
searched  in  u  high  latitude  in  the  manner  jiroposed  l»y 
the  hydrographer. 

"If  the  proposed  ox]>cdition  succeeds  in  cstahlishing 
its  "winter  (puirters  among  these  islands,  ])arties  de- 
tached over  the  ice  may  travel  to  the  eastward  aiul 
stuitheastAvard,  so  as  to  cross  the  line  of  search  which  it 
is  hoped  Mr.  liac  has  been  able  to  pursue  in  the  present 
sunnner,  and  thus  to  deternn'ne  M'hether  any  traces  of 
the  missing  ships  exist  in  localities  the  most  remote 
Irom  ]jehring's  Strait  and  Lancaster  Sound,  and  from 
whence  shipM'recked  crews  would  iind  the  greatest  ditU- 
culty  in  traveling  to  any  place  where  they  could  hope 
tv  iind  relief. 

"The  climate  of  Arctic  America  improves  in  a  sensi- 
ble maimer  with  an  increase  of  western  louijitude.  On 
the  Mackenzie,  on  the  18oth  meridian,  the  summer  is 
warmer  than  in  any  district  of  the  continent  in  the  same 
parallel,  and  it  is  still  finer,  and  the  vegetation  more 
luxuriant  on  the  banks  of  the  Yucon,  on  the  looth  me- 
ridian. Tiiis  su]KM'iority  of  climate  leads  me  to  infer, 
that  ships  well  fortiilod  against  drift-ice,  M'ill  find  the 
navigation  of  the  Arctic  Seas  more  ]n'acticable  in  its 
"western  portion  than  it  has  been  found  to  the  eastward. 
This  inference  is  su]>ported  by  my  own  personal  f.'X]>e- 
rience,  as  far  as  it  goes.  I  met  with  no  ice  in  the  month 
of  August,  on  my  late  voyage,  till  I  attained  tiie  123d 
meridian,  and  which  I  was  led,  from  tluit  circumstance, 
to  su]-»]>ose  coincided  with  the  western  limits  of  Parry's 
Archipelago. 


1 


OPINIONS   AND  SL'OOKSTIONS. 


2n5 


in  tills 
Icet  on 
I'vation 
ription, 

L'fllSO,  1 

i;  exist- 

o  sends 
lis]  Kite  1 1 
Stmit : 
western 
ould  1)0 
used  l»y 

blisliinijj 
ties  de- 
iird  and 
wliieli  it 
(  present 
niees  of 
remote 
nd  from 
estditH- 
ild  hope 

a  scnsi- 
;le.  On 
nmcr  is 
he  sumo 
\m  more 
ioth  mc- 
|to  inter, 

Knd  tlio 
|e  in  its 

istward. 

\i\  f'xpe- 
montli 

lie  123d 

iistance, 

I  Parry's 


*Tlie  i^reivter  tUeility  of  ntiviuiatini^  from  tliowest  luisr 
\,v%:u  j)o\vert"ully  advoeated  l>y  otiiers  on  former  oeea- 
bions  ;  and  the  cliief,  ]>erliaps  tlie  only  rejison  wiiy  tli? 
attempt  to  j)enetruto  the  Polar  Sea  from  that  <iiiartei" 
has  not  been  resnnied  since  the  time  <»f  Cook  is,  that 
the  length  of  tho  previons  voyage  to  IJeh ring's  Strait 
Avonld  considerably  diminish  the  r.tore  of  jtrovisions ; 
bnt  tho  facilities  of  obtaining  snpplies  in  the  Pacilic  aro 
now  so  angmented,  that  this  objection  has  no  longer  tho 
same  force." 

Captain  F.  ^V.  Bccchoy,  writing  from  Cheltenham, 
on  the  1st  of  December,  184l>,  says: — 

'"  I  quite  agree  with  Sir  Francis  lieanfort  in  what  ho 
has  stated  with  regard  to  any  casualties  which  Sir  J. 
Franklin's  shi])s  may  have  sustained,  and  entirely  agreo 
with  him  and  Sir  Edward  Parry,  that  the  exj)etlition  is 
])rol)ably  hamperc  1  among  the  ice  somewhere  to  tho 
south  westward  of  Melville  Island  ;  bnt  there  is  yet  a 
possibility  which  does  not  ai)])ear  to  luivo  been  conteni- 
l)lated,  which  is,  that  of  the  scurvy  iiaving  spread  among 
tho  crew,  and  incapacitated  a  large  ])roi)ortion  of  them 
from  making  any  exertion  toAvartl  their  release,  or  that 
tho  whole,  in  a  debilitated  state,  may  yet  bo  clinging 
by  their  vessels,  existing  sparingly  u])on  the  provision 
which  a  largo  mortality  may  have  spun  out,  in  tho  hope 
of  relief. 

"  In  tlie  first  case,  that  of  the  sliijis  being  liampercd 
and  the  crews  in  good  health,  I  think  it  certain  that,  a? 
tho  resources  of  the  ships  would  be  expended  in  !May 
last.  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crew  Lave  abandoned 
the  ships,  and  pushed  forward  for  the  nearest  point 
where  they  might  reasonably  expect  assistance,  and 
whidi  they  could  reasonably  reach. 

"There  are  consequently  three  points  to  which  it 
would  1)0  proper  to  direct  attention,  and  as  the  case  is 
urgent,  every  possible  method  of  relief  sh.ould  be  ener- 
getically ]mshed  forward  at  as  early  a  ])eriod  as  ]X)ssi- 
ble,  and  directed  to  those  points,  which,  I  need  scarcely 
say,  aro  Barrow's  Strait,  Behring's  Strait,  and  the 
northern  coast  of  America. 


■    .-,1  '   V' 


236 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


it 


I  t 


"  Of  the  measures  which  can  be  resorted  to  on  tht 
northern  coast  of  America,  the  officers  who  have  hao 
experience  there,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  will 
be  able  to  judge  ;  but  I  am  of  opinion  that  nothing 
should  be  neglected  in  that  quarter ;  for  it  seems  to 
me  almost  certain  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  crew, 
if  able  to  travel,  have  abandoned  their  ships  and  made 
for  the  continent ;  and  if  they  have  not  succeeded  in 
gaining  the  Hudson's  Bay  outposts,  they  have  been 
overtaken  by  winter  before  they  could  accomplish  their 
purpose. 

"  Lastly  as  to  the  opinion  which  naturally  forces  itself 
upon  us,  as  to  the  utility  of  the  sending  relief  to  per- 
sons whose  means  of  subsistence  will  have  failed  them 
more  than  a  year  by  the  time  the  relief  could  reach 
them,  I  would  observe,  that  a  prudent  reduction  of  the 
allowance  may  have  been  timely  made  to  meet  an 
emergency,  or  great  mortality  may  have  enabled  the 
survivors  to  subsist  up  to  the  time  required,  or  it  may 
be  that  the  crews  have  just  missed  reaching  the  points 
visited  by  our  parties  last  year  before  they  quitted  them, 
and  in  the  one  case  may  now  be  subsisting  on  the  sup- 
plies at  Leopold  IsItmdjOrbe  housed  in  eastward  of  Point 
Barrow,  sustained  by  depots  which  have  been  fallen  in 
with,  or  by  the  native  supplies  ;  so  that  under  all  the 
circurastancef3,  I  do  not  consider  their  condition  so 
utterly  hopeless  that  we  shoukl  give  up  the  expectation 
of  yet  being  able  to  render  them  a  timely  assistance. 

"  Tlie  endeavors  to  push  forward  might  be  continued 
until  the  30th  of  August,  at  latest,  at  wliich  time,  if  tht 
ships  be  not  near  some  land  where  they  can  conven 
iently  pass  a  winter,  they  must  direct  their  course  for 
the  main-land,  and  seek  a  secure  harbor  in  which  they 
could  remain.  And  on  no  account  should  they  risk  a 
winter  in  the  pack,  in  consequence  of  the  tides  and 
shallow  water  lying  off  the  coast. 

"  Should  the  expedition  reach  Herschel  Island,  or 
any  other  place  of  refuge  on  the  coast  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie  or  Colville  llivers,  endeavors  should 
be  made  to  communicate  information  of  the  ships'  posi- 


OPINIONS  ANT)  SUGGESTIONS. 


237 


tiott  And  summer's  proceedings  through  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  or  Russian  settlements,  and  by  means 
of  interpreters  ;  and  no  opportunity  should  hv  omitted 
of  gaining  from  the  natives  information  of  the  missing 
ressels,  as  well  as  of  any  boat  expeditions  that  may  have 
i^one  forward,  as  well  as  of  the  party  under  Dr.  Rae. 

"  If  nothing  should  be  heard  of  Sir  John  Franklin  in 
1850,  parties  of  observation  should  be  sent  forward  in 
the  spring  to  iutercept  the  route  the  ship  would  have 
pursued,  and  in  other  useful  directions  between  winter 
quarters  and  Melville  Island  ;  taking  especial  care  that 
they  return  to  the  ship  before  the  time  of  liberation 
of  the  ships  arrives,  which  greatly  depends  upon  their 
locality. 

"  Then,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  should  any 
favorable  appearance  of  the  ice  present  itself,  the  expe- 
dition might  be  left  free  to  take  advantage  of  such  a 
prosj)ect,  or  to  return  round  Point  Barrow  ;  making  it 
imperative,  however,  either  to  insure  their  return,  so 
tar  as  human  foresight  may  be  exercised,  or  the  cer- 
tainty of  their  reaching  Melville  Island  at  the  close  of 
that  season,  and  so  securing  their  return  to  England 
in  1852. 

"  If,  after  all,  any  unforeseen  event  should  detain  the 
ships  beyond  the  period  contemplated  above,  every 
exertion  should  be  used,  by  means  of  boats  and  in- 
terpreters, to  communicate  with  the  Mackenzie  ;  and 
should  any  casualty  render  it  necessary  to  abandon  the 
vessels,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  reserve-ship 
will  remain  at  her  quarters  until  the  autumn  of  1853, 
unless  she  hears  of  the  safety  of  the  sliips  and  boats 
in  other  directions  ;  while  in  the  other  quarter.  Fort 
Macpherson,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Mackenzie,  may  be 
relied  upon  as  an  asylum. 

"The  Plover,  or  reserve-ship,  should  be  provided 
with  three  years'  provisions  for  her  own  crew,  and  for 
contingencies  besides.  She  should  be  placed  as  near 
as  possible  to  Point  Barrow,  and  provided  with  inter- 
preters, and  the  means  of  offering  rewards  for  infor- 
mation; and  she  should  remain  at  lier  quarters  so  long 


238 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


II I 


as  there  can  be  any  occasion  for  her  presence  in  k  e 
Arctic  Seas  ;  or,  if  she  does  not  hear  any  thing  ol  t.ie 
expedition  under  Captain  CoUinson,  as  long  as  her 
provisions  will  last." 

Sir  John  Richardson  offers  the  following  advic«  for 
this  expedition: — "It,"  he  says,  "it  should  winter 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Yucan  or  Colville,  that  river 
may  be  ascended  in  a  boat  in  the  month  of  June,  be- 
fore the  sea  ice  begins  to  give  way.  The  river  varies 
in  width  from  a  mile  and  a  half  to  two  miles,  and 
flows  through  a  rich,  well-wooded  valley,  abounding  in 
moose  deer,  and  having  a  comparatively  mild  climate. 
A  Russian  trading  post  has  been  built  on  it,  at  the  dis 
tance  of  three  or  four  days'  voyage  from  the  sea,  with 
the  current ;  but  as  the  current  is  strong,  from  nine  to 
twelve  days  must  be  allowed  for  its  ascent,  with  the 
tracking  line.  It  would  be  unsafe  to  rely  upon  receiv- 
ing a  supply  of  provisions  at  the  Russian  post,  as  it  is 
not  likely  that  any  stock  beyond  what  is  necessary  for 
their  own  use  is  laid  up  by  the  traders ;  and  the  moose 
deei"  being  a  very  shy  animal,  is  not  easily  shot  by  an 
unpracticed  hunter ;  but  the  reindeer  abound  on  the 
neighboring  hills,  and  are  much  more  approachable. 
Tiie  white-fronted  goose  also  breeds  in  vast  flocks  in 
that  district  of  the  country,  and  may  be  killed  in  num- 
bers, without  difficulty,  in  the  month  of  June. 

"If  the  expedition  should  winter  within  a  reason- 
able distance  of  the  Mackenzie,  Captain  ColHnson 
may  have  it  in  his  power  to  send  dispatches  to  England 
by  that  route. 

"The  river  opens  in  June,  and  as  soon  as  the  ice 
ceases  to  drive,  may  be  ascended  in  a  boat,  with  a  fair 
wind,  under  sail,  or  with  a  tracking  line. 

"  The  lowest  post  at  present  occupied  by  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  on  this  river  is  Fort  Good  Hope. 
The  site  of  this  post  has  been  changed  several  times, 
but  it  is  at  this  time  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  in 
latitude  GG°  10'  N^.,  and  is  ten  or  eleven  days'  voyage 
from  the  sea.  At  Point  Separation,  opposite  to  the 
middle  channel  of  the  delta  of  the  river,  and  on  the 


em  (.  e 
ig  ol  Lie 
r  as  her 


:lvic«  for 
1  winter 
lat  river 
rune,  be- 
ar varies 
iles,  and 
nding  in 
climate. 
t  the  dis 
5ea,  with 

I  nine  to 
with  the 

II  receiv- 
t,  as  it  is 
ssary  for 
le  moose 
)t  by  an 

on  the 
achable. 
locks  in 
in  num- 

reason- 

'ollinson 

England 

the  ice 
;h  a  fair 

le  Hud- 
Hope, 
times, 

■iver,  in 

voyage 
to  the 

on  the 


ii  't  I 'it'll 


> 


,1* 


n 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


239 


.iiomontoiy  which  separates  the  Peel  and  the  Mac- 
tenzie,  there  is  a  case  of  pemmican  (80  lbs.)  burled,  ten 
feet  distant  from  a  tree,  which  has  its  middle  branches 
lopped  off,  and  is  marked  on  the  trunk  with  a  broad 
arrow  in  black  paint.  A  fire  was  made  over  the  pit 
in  which  the  case  is  concealed,  and  the  remains  of  the 
charcoal  will  point  out  the  exact  spot.  Tliis  hoard 
was  visited  last  year  by  a  party  from  Fort  Macpher- 
eon.  Peel's  River,  when  all  was  safe. 

"Eight  bagS  of  pemmican,  weighing  90  lbs.  each, 
were  deposited  at  Fort  Good  Hope  in  1848,  and  would 
remain  there  last  summer  for  the  use  of  any  boat 
parties  that  might  ascend  the  river  in  1849 ;  but  it  is 
probable  that  part,  or  the  whole,  may  have  been  used 
by  the  Company  by  next  year. 

"A  boat  party  should  be  furnished  with  a  small 
seine  and  a  short  herring  net,  by  the  use  of  which  a 
good  supply  of  fish  may  often  be  procured  in  the 
eddies  or  sandy  bays  of  the  Mackenzie.  They  should 
also  be  provided  with  a  good  supply  of  buck-shot,  swan- 
shot,  duck-shot,  and  gunpowder.  The  Loucheux  and 
Hare  Indians  will  readily  give  such  provisions  as  they 
may  happen  to  have,  in  exchange  for  ammunition. 
They  will  expect  to  receive  tobacco  gratuitously,  as 
they  are  accustomed  to  do  from  the  traders. 

"The  Mackenzie  is  the  only  water-way  bj  which 
any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  posts  can  be 
reached  from  the  Arctic  Sea.    There  is  a  post  on  the 
Peel  River  which  enters  the  delta  of  the  Mackenzie, 
but  no  supplies  can  be  procured  there.    To  the  east- 
ward of  the  Mackenzie  no  ship-parly  would  have  a 
chance  of  reaching  a  trading  post,  the  nearest  to  the 
sea  being  Fort  Resolution,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  situ- 
ated on  the  61st  parallel  of  latitude,  and  the  interven- 
ing hilly  country,  intersected  by  numerous  lakes  and 
rapid  rivers,  could  not  be  crossed  by  such  a  party  ii 
less  than  an  entire  summer,  even  could  they  depem 
on  their  guns  for  a  supply  of  food.     Neitlier  would 
be  advisable  for  a  party  from  the  ships  to  attem])t  to 
repch  the  posts  on  the  Mackenzie  bv  way  of  the  Cop- 


m 


m 


,!  Hill 
!.l!|,,: 


'I 
m 


h 


240 


rROGRF:88   OF   ARCTIC    DISCO V  KEY. 


permine  River  and  Fort  Confidence;  as,  in  the  ab- 
Benee  of  means  of  transport  across  Great  Bear  Lake, 
the  journey  round  that  irregular  sheet  of  water,  would 
be  long  and  hazardous.  Bear  Lake  River  is  more 
than  fifty  miles  long,  and  Fort  Norman,  the  nearest 
post  on  the  Mackenzie,  is  thirty  miles  above  its  mouth. 
Mr.  Rae  was  instructed  to  engage  an  Indian  family  or 
two  to  hunt  on  the  tract  of  country  between  the  Cop- 
permine and  Great  Bear  Lake  in  the  summer  of  185(3 ; 
but  no  great  reliance  can  be  placed  on  these  Lidians 
remaining  long  there,  as  they  desert  their  hunting 
quarters  on  very  slight  alarms,  being  in  continual 
dread  of  enemies,  real  or  imaginary. 

"  A  case  of  pemmican  was  buried  on  the  summit  ot 
the  bank,  about  four  or  five  miles  from  the  summit  of 
Cape  Bathurst,  the  spot  being  marked  by  a  pole  planted 
in  the  earth,  and  the  exact  locality  of  the  deposit  by  a  fir« 
of  drift-wood,  much  of  which  would  remain  unconsumed. 

"  Another  case  was  deposited  in  the  cleft  of  a  rock, 
on  a  small  battlemented  clifi^,  which  forms  the  extreme 
part  of  Cape  Parry.  The  case  was  covered  with  loose 
stones ;  and  a  pile  of  stones  painted  red  and  white, 
was  erected  immediately  in  front  of  it.  This  cliff  re- 
sembles a  cocked-hat  in  some  points  of  view,  and  pro- 
jects like  a  tongue  from  the  base  of  a  rounded  hill, 
which  is  500  or  600  feet  high. 

"  Several  cases  of  pemmican  were  left  exposed  on  a 
ledge  of  rocks  in  latitude  68°  35'  N.,  opposite  Lambert 
Island,  in  Dolphin  and  Union  Strait,  and  in  a  bay  to 
the  westward  of  Cape  Krusenstern,  a  small  boat  and 
ten  pieces  of  pemmican  were  deposited  under  a  high 
clift',  above  high  water  mark,  without  concealment. 
The  Esquimaux  on  this  part  of  the  coast  are  not  nu- 
merous, and  from  the  position  of  this  hoard,  it  may 
escape  discovery  by  them  ;  but  I  have  every  reason  to 
believe  that  the  locality  has  been  visited  by  Mr.  Rae  in 
the  past  summer.  A  deposit  of  larger  size,  near  Cape 
Kendall,  has  been  more  certainly  visited  by  Mr.  Rae." 

Captain  Sir  J.  C.  Ross  writes  from  Haslar,  11th  of 
C'ebruarv,  1850. 


1 1 


OriNTONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


241 


le  ab- 
Lake, 
would 
more 
learest 
nouth. 
nily  or 
e  Cop- 
•  1850 ; 
ndiana 
Hinting 
Qtinual 

imit  ot 
imit  of 
planted 
jy  a  fir« 
isumed. 

a  rock, 
extreme 

h  loose 
white, 
iclifF  re- 

d  pro- 
led  hill, 

d  on  a 

jambert 

bay  to 

►at  and 

a  high 

ilment. 

lot  nu- 

lit  may 

Ison  to 

Rae  in 

Ir  Cape 

Rae." 

Ilth  of 


"  "With  respect  to  the  probable  position  of  the  Erebus 
and  Terror,  1  consider  that  it  is  hardly  possible  they 
can  be  anywhere  to  the  eastward  of  Melville  Island, 
or  within  300  miles  of  Leopold  Island,  for  if  that  were 
tlie  case,  they  would  assuredly,  during  the  last  spring, 
liUN  e  made  their  way  to  that  por  vith  the  hope  o+* 
receiving  assistance  from  i  whf  ships  which,  fo^ 
several  years  previous  to  the  departure  of  that  expedi- 
tion from  England,  had  been  in  the  habit  of  visiting 
Prince  Regent  Inlet  in  pursuit  of  whales  ;  and  in  that 
case  they  must  have  been  met  with,  or  marks  of  their 
encampments  have  been  found  by  some  of  the  numer- 
ous parties  detached  from  the  Enterprise  and  Investi- 
gator along  the  shores  of  that  vicinity  during  the  only 
period  of  the  season  in  which  traveling  is  practicable 
in  those  regions. 

"  It  is  probable,  therefore,  that  during  their  first 
summer,  which  was  remarkably  iUvorable  for  the  navi- 
gation of  those  seas,  they  have  been  enabled  (in  obedi- 
ence to  their  orders)  to  push  the  ships  to  the  westward 
of  Banks'  land,  and  have  there  become  involved  in  the 
heavy  pack  of  ice  which  was  observed  from  Melville 
Island  always  to  be  setting  past  its  westernmost  point 
in  a  southeast  direction,  and  from  which  pack  they  may 
not  have  been  able  to  extricate  their  ships. 

"  From  such  a  position,  retreat  to  the  eastward  would 
be  next  to  impossible,  while  the  journey  to  the  Mac- 
kenzie River,  of  comparatively  easy  accomplishment, 
together  with  Sir  John  Franklin's  knowledge  of  the 
resources  in  the  way  and  of  its  practicability,  would 
strengthen  the  belief  that  this  measure  will  have  been 
adopted  by  them  during  the  last  spring. 

"If  this  be  assumed  as  the  present  position  of  the 
Erebus  and  Terror,  it  would  manifestly  be  far  more 
easy  and  safe  to  afford  them  relief  by  means  of  an  ex- 
pedition entering  Behring's  Straits,  than  from  any  other 
direction,  as  it  would  not  be  necessary  for  the  ships  to 
depart  so  far  from  the  coast  of  Korth  America  as  to 
preclude  their  keeping  up  a  regular  communication 
with  the  Russian  settlements  on  the  River  Colville,  or 


^^.  •, 

m" 


i'A 


I  lip 


242 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


i  li 


I 


I 


!l!  jlliil 


[4 


m 


those  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Mackenzie,  while  the  whole  space  between  any 
position  in  which  the  ships  might  winter,  and  Banks' 
Land  could  bo  thorouglily  examined  by  traveling  par- 
ties early  in  the  spring,  or  by  boats  or  steam  launches 
at  a  more  advanced  period  of  the  following  season." 

Mr.  W.  Snow,  in  a  letter  from  New  York,  dated  7th 
of  January,  1850,  suggests  a  plan  for  a  well  organized 
expedition  of  as  many  men  as  could  be  fitted  out  from 
private  funds.  "  For  instance,  let  a  party  of  100  picked 
men,  well  disciplined  and  officered,  as  on  board  a  ship, 
and  accompanied  with  all  the  necessary  food,  scientific 
instruments,  and  every  thing  useful  on  such  expeditions, 
proceed  immediately,  by  the  shortest  and  most  avail- 
able routes,  to  tlie  lands  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  un- 
explored regions.  If  possible,  I  would  suggest  that 
tliey  should  proceed  first  to  Moose  Fort,  on  the  south 
ern  part  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  thence  by  small  craft 
to  Chesterfield  Inlet,  or  otherwise  by  land  reach  that 
quarter,  so  ias  to  arrive  there  at  the  opening  of  summer. 
From  this  neighborhood  let  the  party,  minus  ten  men, 
be  divided  into  three  separate  detachments,  each  with 
specific  instructions  to  extend  their  researches  in  a 
northerly  and  northwesterly  direction.  The  weatern- 
most  party  to  proceed  as  near  as  possible  in  a  direct 
course  to  the  easternmost  limits  of  discovery  yet  made 
from  Behring's  Straits,  and  on  no  account  to  deviate 
from  that  course  on  the  western  side  of  it,  buit,  if  ne- 
cessary, to  the  eastward.  Let  the  central  party  shape  a 
course  as  near  as  possible  to  the  position  of  the  Mag- 
netic Pole ;  and  the  easternmost  division  direct  tc 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  or  the  westernmost  point  of  dis- 
covery from  the  east,  and  not  to  deviate  from  that  course 
easterly.  Let  each  of  these  detachments  be  formed 
again  into  three  divisions,  each  division  thus  consisting 
of  ten  men.  Let  the  first  division  of  each  detachment 
pioneer  the  way,  followed  on  the  same  track  by  thfe 
second  and  the  third,  at  stated  intervals  of  time.  On 
tlie  route,  let  the  pioneers,  at  every  spot  necessary,  leave? 
distinguishing  marks  to  denote  the  way,  and  also  to 


ill 


OPINIONS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


243 


lape  a 
Mag- 
to 


give  information  to  either  of  the  other  two  principal 
(letuchnients  as  may  by  chance  fall  into  their  track 
To  second  the  eftbrts  of  the  three  detachments,  let  con 
stant  succors  and  other  assistance  be  forwarded  by 
way  of  Moose  Fort,  and  through  the  ten  men  left  at 
Cliesterfield  Inlet ;  and  should  the  object  for  which 
such  an  expedition  was  framed  be  hapi)ily  accom- 
l)lis]ied  by  the  return  of  the  lost  voyagers,  let  mesi^en- 
gers  be  forwarded  with  the  news,  as  was  done  witli 
Captain  Back,  in  the  case  of  Captain  Ross.  Let  each 
of  the  extreme  detachments,  upon  arriving  at  tlieir  re- 
spective destinations,  and  upon  being  joined  by  the 
whole  of  their  body,  proceed  to  form  plans  for  uniting 
with  the  central  party,  and  ascertaining  the  ro'^ults 
already  obtained  by  each  by  sending  parties  in  that 
direction.  Also,  let  a  chosen  number  be  sent  out  from 
each  detachment  as  exploring  parties,  wherever  deemed 
requisite ;  and  let  no  effort  be  wanted  to  nuike  a  search 
in  every  direction  where  there  is  a  possibility  of  its 
j)roving  successful. 

"  If  a  public  and  more  extensive  expedition  be  set  on 
foot,  I  would  most  respectfully  draw  attention  to  the 
following  suggestions: — Let  a  land  expedition  be  formed 
upon  a  similar  plan,  and  with  the  same  number  of  men, 
say  300  or  more,  as  those  fitted  out  for  sea.  Let  tliis 
ex[)edition  be  formed  into  three  great  divisions  ;  tlie  one 
proceeding  by  the  Athabasca  to  the  Great  Slave  Lake, 
and  following  out  Captain  Back's  discoveries ;  the 
second,  tlu'ough  the  Churchill  district ;  or,  with  the 
third,  according  to  the  plan  laid  out  for  a  private  expe- 
dition alone  ;  only  keeping  the  whole  of  their  forces  as 
much  as  j^ossible  bearing  upon  the  points  where  success 
may  be  most  likely  attainable. 

"Eacli  of  these  three  great  divisions  to  be  subdivided 
and  arranged  also  as  in  the  former  case.  The  expense 
of  an  expedition  of  this  kind,  with  all  the  necessary 
oiitlay  for  proA'isions,  &c.,  I  do  not  think  would  be  more 
than  half  what  the  same  would  cost  if  sent  by  sea  ;  but 
of  this  I  am  not  a  competent  judge,  having  no  definite 
means  to  make  a  comparison.    But  there  is  yet  another, 


244 


PROOllEaS   OF  AUCTIC   Dl^sCOVKKY. 


1 ,       a:!:l-ll: 


•I 


and,  I  cftimot  help  coiiccivinn^,  a  more  easy  way  of  ob- 
viating all  (.litliculty  on  tliia  point,  and  of  reducing  tho 
expense  considcrahly. 

'*  It  must  be  evident  that  tbe  prcaent  position  of  the 
arctic  voyagers  is  not  very  accessible,  cither  by  land 
or  sea,  else  the  distinguished  leader  at  the  head  of  tho 
expedition  vvonld  long  ere  this  have  tracked  a  route 
whereby  the  whole  party,  or  at  least  some  of  them 
could  return. 

"In  such  a  case,  therefore,  tho  only  way  to  reach 
them  is  by,  if  I  may  use  the  expression,  ^o/v.vv^y/  an  ex- 
pedition on  toward  them  ;  I  mean,  by  keeping  it  con- 
stantly upheld  and  pushing  onward.  Tlicre  may  bo, 
and  indeed  there  are,  very  great  dilHculties,  and  difH- 
culties  of  such  a  nature  that,  I  believe,  they  would 
themselves  cause  anotlier  great  difficulty  in  the  procur- 
ing of  men.  But,  if  I  might  make  another  b(>ld  sug- 
gestion, I  would  respectfully  ask  onr  govei'ument  at 
home,  why  not  employ  picked  men  from  convicted 
criminals,  as  is  done  in  exploring  expeditions  in  Aus- 
tralia ?  Inducements  might  be  held  out  to  them  ;  and 
by  jH-oper  care  they  would  be  made  most  serviceable 
auxiliaries.  Generally  speaking,  men  convicted  of 
offenses  are  men  possessed  of  almost  inexhaustible 
mental  resources  ;  and  such  men  are  the  men  who, 
with  jihysical  powers  of  endurance,  are  precisely  those 
required.  But  this  I  speak  of,  merely,  if  sufficient  free 
men  could  not  be  found,  and  if  economy  is  studied." 

Mr.  Joh.n  McLean,  who  has  been  twenty-five  years  a 
partner  and  officer  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and 
has  published  an  interesting  narrative  of  his  adven- 
tures and  experience,  writing  to  Lady  Franklin  from 
Canada  West,  in  January,  1850,  suggests  the  following 
very  excellent  plan  as  likely  to  produce  some  intelli- 
gence, if  not  to  lead  to  a  discovery  of  i:he  ]>:irty. 

"  Let  a  small  schooner  of  some  thirty  or  forty  tons 
burden,  built  with  a  ^iew  to  draw  as  little  wiiter  as 
possible,  and  as  strong  as  wood  and  iron  could  mnke 
her,  be  dispatched  from  England  in  compnny  with  tho 
Hudson's  Bay  ships.     This  vessel  would,  immediately 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


245 


ter  Jis 
make 
rli  the 
iiitely 


on  nr'-iving  at  York  Factory,  proceed  to  tlio  Strait 
termed  Sir  Thomas  lioo's  Welcome,  which  divides 
Southami)ton  Island  from  the  main-land  ;  then  direct 
her  conrse  to  Wager  River,  and  proceed  onward  nntil 
interrupted  by  insurmountable  obstacles.  The  party 
being  safely  landed,  I  would  recommend  their  remai!i- 
ing  stutionary  nntil  winter  traveling  became  practicable, 
wlien  they  should  set  out  for  the  slicres  of  the  Arctic 
Sea,  which,  by  a  reference  to  Arrowsmith's  map,  ap- 
pears to  be  only  some  sixty  or  seventy  miles  distant  ; 
then  dividing  in  two  parties  or  divisions,  the  one  would 
proceed  east,  the  other  west ;  and  1  think  means  could 
be  devised  of  exploring  250  or  300  miles  in  either 
direction  ;  and  here  a  very  important  question  pre- 
sents itself, —  how  and  by  what  means  is  this  enterprii?'j 
to  be  accomplished  ? 

"  In  the  first  place,  the  services  of  Esquimaux  would 
be  indispensable,  for  the  twofold  reason,  that  no  reliable 
information  can  be  obtained  from  the  natives  without 
their  aid,  and  that  they  alone  properly  understand  the 
art  of  preparing  snow-houses,  or  '  igloes,'  for  winter  en- 
campment, the  only  lodging  which  the  desolate  wastes 
of  the  arctic  regions  aiford.  Esquimaux  understanding 
the  Engb'sh  language  sufficiently  well  to  answer  our 
purpose,  freqnent  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post 
in  Labrador,  some  of  whom  might  be  induced,  (I  should 
fain  hope,)  to  engage  for  the  expedition  ,  or  probably 
the  '  halt-breed  '  natives  might  do  so  more  readily  than 
the  aborigines.  They  should,  if  possible,  be  strong, 
active  men,  and  good  marksmen,  and  not  less  than  four 
in  number.  Failing  in  the  attempt  to  procnre  the  na- 
tives of  Labrador,  then  I  should  think  Esqnimaux 
might  be  obtained  at  Churchill,  in  Hudson's  Bay  ;  the 
two  who  accoT^panied  Sir  John  in  his  first  land  expedi- 
tion were  from  this  quarter." 

An  expedition  of  this  kind  is  to  be  sent  out  by  Lady 
Franklin  this  spring  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Kennedy. 
There  are  various  ways  of  accomplishing  this  object, 
the  choice  of  which  must  mainly  depend  on  the  views 
and  wishes  of  the  officer  who  mav  undertake  the  com- 


4i 


240 


I'ltOOKKSe  OF  A.UCmo   DISCOVERY. . 


numd.  Bt'sidcH  tlie  northern  route,  or  thiit  by  lle«rent 
Inlet,  it  is  possible  to  reach  Sir  James  Koss  and  ISimi)- 
son's  Straits  iVoni  the  south,  enterini'  lludson'b  liav, 
and  passing  up  the  Welcome  to  llae  Isthmus,  or  again 
by  entering  (Jhesterlield  or  Wager  Inlet,  and  gaining 
the  coast  by  JJack's^  or  the  Great  Fish  Kiver. 

By  either  of  these  routes  a  great  part  of  the  explora- 
tion must  be  nuide  in  boats  or  on  foot.  In  every  case 
the  main  points  to  bo  searched  are  James  Koss's  Strait 
and  Simpson's  Strait,  if  indeed  there  be  a  pas-^age  in 
that  direction,  as  laid  down  in  Sir  John  Franklin's  charts, 
though  contradicted  by  Ivlr,,  Kae,  and  considered  still 
doubtful  by  some  arctic  navigators. 

The  following  extract  from  the  Geographical  Jour- 
nal shows  the  opinion  of  Franklin  upon  the  search  of 
this  quarter.  Dr.  Richardson  says,'^^ — "  Ko  better  plan 
can  be  proposed  than  the  one  suggested  by  Sir  John 
Franklin,  of  sending  a  vessel  to  Wager  River,  and  car- 
rying on  the  survey  from  thence  in  boats." 

Sir  John  Franklin  ob8erves,f — "  The  Doctor  alludes 
in  his  letter  to  some  propositions  which  he  knew  I  had 
made  in  the  year  1828,  at  the  command  of  his  present 
Majesty, v^William  IV.,)  on  the  same  subject,  and  partic- 
ularly to  th<!  suggestion  as  to  proceeding  from  Repulse 
or  Wager  Buy.  *  *  *  A  recent  careful  reading  of  all 
the  narratives  connected  with  the  surveys  of  the  Wager 
and  Repulse  Bays,  and  of  Sir  Edward  Parry's  Vovage, 
together  with  the  information  obtained  from  theEs(iui- 
maux  by  Sir  Edward  Parry,  Sir  John  Ross,  and  Cap- 
tain Back,  confirm  me  in  opinion  that  a  successful  de- 
lineation of  the  coast  east  of  Point  Turnagain  to  the 
Strait  of  the  Fury  and  Ilecla,  would  be  best  attained 
by  an  expedition  proceeding  from  Wager  Bay,  the 
northern  parts  of  which  cannot,  I  think,  be  farther  dis- 
tant than  forty  miles  from  the  sea,  if  the  information 
received  by  the  above-mentioned  officers  can  be  de- 
pended on." 

Dr.  McCormick  particularly  draws  attention  to  Jones* 
and  Smitli's  Sounds,  recommending  a  careful  examin 

*  Journal  of  Gu()gra})liiral  Sofiuty,  vol.  vi.  p.  10.  tU>id.  j).  43. 


ovage. 


orujioNs  A^D  suogestfons.  247 

ation  of  these  to  their   probable  termination  in  the 
Polar  Sea  : — 

"  Jones'  Sound,  with  the  "Wellinpiton  Channel  on  the 
west,  may  be  foimd  to  form  an  island  of  the  land  called 
'  North  Devon.'  All  prominent  positions  on  botii  sides 
of  these  Sounds  should  be  searched  for  flag  staves  and 
]»ilc8  of  stones,  under  whcih  copper  cylinders  or  bot- 
tles may  have  been  deposited,  containing  accoimts  of 
the  i)roceeding8  of  the  missing  expedition  ;  and  if  suc- 
cessful in  getting  upon  its  track,  a  clue  would  bo  ob- 
tained to  the  fate  ot  our  gallant  countrymen." 

The  Wellington  Channel  ho  considers  affords  one  of 
the  best  chances  of  crossing  the  track  of  the  missing 
expedition. 

To  carry  out  this  plan  efficiently,  lie  recommended 
that  a  boat  should  be  dropped,  by  the  ship  conveying 
the  searching  party  out,  at  the  entrance  to  the  "Welling- 
ton Channel  in  Barrow's  Strait ;  from  this  point  one  or 
both  sides  of  that  channel  and  the  northern  shores  of 
the  Parry  Islands  nn'ght  be  explored  as  far  west  as  the 
season  would  permit  of.  But  should  the  ship  be  en- 
abled to  look  into  Jones'  Sound,  on  her  way  to  Lancas- 
ter Sound,  and  find  that  opening  free  from  ice,  an 
attempt  might  be  made  by  the  Boat  Expedition  to  push 
tlirough  it  into  the  Wellington  Channel.  In  the  event, 
however,  of  its  proving  to  be  merely  an  inlet,  which  a 
short  delay  would  be  sufficient  to  decide,  the  ship  might 
l^erhaps  be  in  readiness  to  pick  up  the  boat  on  its  »>•- 
turn,  for  conveyance  to  its  ultimate  destination  through 
Lancaster  Sound  ;  or  as  a  precaution  against  any  un- 
foreseen separation  from  the  ship,  a  depot  of  provifions 
should  be  left  at  the  entrance  to  Jones'  Sound  for  the 
boat  to  complete  its  supplies  from,  after  accomplishing 
the  exploration  of  this  inlet,  and  to  afford  the  means, 
if  compelled  from  an  advanced  period  of  the  season 
or  other  adverse  circumstances,  of  reaching  some  place 
of  refuge,  either  on  board  a  whaler  or  some  one  of  the 
depots  of  i^ro visions  on  the  southern  shores  of  Barrow's 
Strait. 


11^ 


248 


rUOGUKSS   OF   AKCriO   DISCOVKKY. 


Mr.  Penny,  in  cliargc  of  the  Lady  Franldin,  before 
'ailiiii*,  observed  : — 

"  If  an  early  passaj^e  be  obtained,  I  would  examine 
Tones'  Sound,  as  1  have  pjenerally  found  in  all  my  early 
voyages  clear  water  at  the  mouth  of  that  sound,  and 
there  is  a  probability  that  an  earlier  passage  by  this 
route  might  be  found  into  Wellington  Strait,  wl.iich  out- 
let ought  by  all  means  to  be  thoroughly  examined  at 
the  earliest  opportunity,  since,  if  Sir  J.  Franklin  liad 
taken  that  route,  with  the  hope  of  finding  a  passage 
westward,  to  the  north  of  the  Parry  and  Melville 
Islands,  he  may  be  beyond  the  power  of  helping  him- 
self. No  trace  of  the  expedition,  or  practical  connnn- 
nicaiion  with  Wellington  Strait,  being  obtained  in  this 
quarter,  I  would  proceed  in  time  to  take  advantage  of 
the  first  opening  of  the  ice  in  Lancaster  Sound,  with 
tiie  view  of  proceeding  to  the  west  and  entering  Wel- 
lington Strait,  or,  if  tliis  should  not  be  practicable,  of 
proceeding  farther  westward  to  Cape  Walker,  and  be- 
yond, on  one  or  other  of  which  places  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin will  probably  have  left  some  notices  of  his  course.'* 

The  government  has  seen  the  urgent  necessity  of 
causing  the  Wellington  Channel  to  be  carefully  exam- 
ined ;  imperative  orders  were  sent  to  Sir  James  Ross 
to  search  it,  but  he  was  drifted  out  of  Barrow's  Strait 
against  his  will,  before  he  received  those  orders  by  the 
North  Star. 

I  have  already  stated  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  in- 
structions directed  him  to  try  the  first  favorable  open- 
ing to  the  southwest  after  passing  Cape  Walker ;  and 
failing  in  that,  to  try  the  Wellington  Channel.  Every 
officer  in  the  British  Service,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
follows  his  instructions,  as  far  as  they  are  compatible 
with  the  exigencies  of  the  case,  be  it  what  it  may,  nor 
ever  deviates  from  them  without  good  and  justifiable 
cause.  If,  then,  Sir  John  Franklin  fixiled  in  finding  an 
opening  to  the  southwest  of  Cape  Walker  it  is  reason- 
able to  suppose  he  obeyed  his  instructions,  and  tried 
the  Wellinjxfon  Channel.     The  seconf 


pn 


ity 


favor  of  this  locality  is,  that  Sir  John  Franklin  ex- 


vA'IMONS    AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


249 


n 


])rcsscd  o  many  of  his  friends  a  favorable  opinion  of 
tlic  Wellington  Channel,  and,  which  is  of  far  more 
consequence,  intimated  his  opinion  ofHcialiy,  and  be- 
fore the  expedition  >vas  determined  upon,  that  this 
Btrait  seemecv  to  offer  the  best  chance  of  success. 

Moreover,  Capt.  Fitzjames,  his  innnediate  second  in 
command  in  the  Erebus,  was  strongly  in  favor  of  the 
Wellington  CI  c^nnel,  and  always  so  expressed  himself. 
See  his  letter,  before  quoted,  to  Sir  Jolin  J3arrow,  p.  203. 

Who  can  dc.ubt  that  the  opinion  of  Capt.  Fitzjames, 
a  man  of  superior  ^lind,  beloved  l)^'^  all  wl;o  knew  him, 
and  in  the  service ''  the  observed  of  all  observers,"  would 
have  great  weight  with  3ir  John  Franklin,  even  if  Sir 
John  had  not  been  himself  predisposed  to  listen  to  him. 
What  adds  confirmation  to  tlitoc  views  is,  that  in  1840, 
a  few  years  prior  to  the  starting  of  the  expedition.  Col. 
Sabine jniblished  cbe  deeply  interetiv.'ng  "Narrative  of 
Baron  Wrangel's  Expedition  to  the  Polar  Sea,  under- 
taken between  the  years  1820  and  1823,"  and  in  his  ])re- 
face  the  translator  jwints  to  the  Wellington  Channel  as 
the  most  likely  couvse  for  the  successful  acconqjlishment 
of  the  northwest  passage.  "Setting  aside,"  he  says, 
"  the  possibility  o^  the  existence  of  unknown  land,  tl^'. 
probability  of  an  open  sea  existing  to  the  north  of  the 
Parry  islands,  and  communicating  with  Behring  Strait, 
appears  to  rest  -on  strict  analogical  reasoning."  And 
again  he  adds,  *'  all  the  attempts  to  effect  the  northwest 

f)assage,  since  Barrow's  Strait  was  first  passed  in  1819, 
lave  consisted  in  an  endeavor  to  force  a  vessel  by  one 
route  or  another  through  this  land-locked  and  ice-encum- 
bered portion  of  the  Polar  Ocean." 

No  examination  has  made  known  what  may  be  the 
state  of  the  sea  to  the  north  of  the  Parry  Islands ; 
whether  similar  impediments  may  tliere  present  them- 
selves to  navigation,  or  whether  a  sea  may  not  there 
exist  offering  no  difficulties  whatever  of  the  kind,  as  M. 
Von  Wrangel  has  shown  to  be  tlie  case  to  the  north  of 

I  should 


be  juf,tified  in  expectin 


by 


c'gy 


or. 


Colonel  Sabine  is  an  officer  of  great  scientific  expe- 


1 1 1 


250 


PU0GRES8    OB'    AKCTIO   DISCOVEKY. 


rience,  and  from  his  Iiiiving  made  several  polar  voyages, 
he  has  devoted  great  attention  to  all  that  relates  to  that 
quarter.  He  was  in  C(.)nstant  communication  with  Sir 
John  Franklin  when  the  expedition  was  fitting  out,  and 
it  is  but  reasonable  to  suppose  that  he  would  be  some- 
what guided  by  his  opinion. 

"VVe  have,  then,  the  opinions  of  Franklin  himself, 
Colonel' Sabine,  and  Captain  Fitzjames,  all  bearing  on 
this  point,  and  wo  must  remember  that  Parry,  who  dis- 
covered and  named  this  channel,  saw  nothing  when 
passing  and  re-passing  it,  but  a  clear  open  sea  to  the 
northward. 

Lieut.  S.  Osborn,  in  a  paper  dated  the  4:th  of  January, 
1850,  makes  the  following  suggestions  : — 

"General  opinion  places  the  lost  expedition  to  tlie 
west  of  Cape  Walkei*,  and  south  of  the  latitude  of  Mel- 
ville Island.  The  d  istance  from  Cape  Bathurst  to  Banks' 
Land  is  only  301  miles,  and  on  reference  to  a  chart  it 
will  be  seen  that  nowhere  else  does  the  American  conti- 
nent approach  so  near  to  the  supposed  position  of  Frank- 
lin's expedition. 

"  Banks'  Land  bears  from  Cape  Bathurst  N^.  41°  49', 
E.  302  miles,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in  the 
summer  season  a  portion  of  this  distance  may  be  trav- 
ersed in  boats. 

"Dr.  Richardson  confirms  previous  reports  of  the  ice 
being  light  on  the  coast  cast  of  the  Mackenzie  River  to 
Cape  Bathurst,  and  informs  us  that  tlie  Esquimaux  had 
seen  '  no  ice  to  seaward  for  two  moons.' 

''  Every  mile  traversed  northward  -by  a  party  from 
Cape  Bathurst  would  be  ovei  that  unknown  space  in 
which  traces  of  Franklin  may  be  expected.  It  is  advis- 
able that  such  a  second  party  be  dispatched  from  Cape 
Bathurst,  in  order  that  the  prosecution  of  Dr.  Rae's 
examination  of  the  supposed  channel  between  AVol las- 
ton  and  Victoria  Lands  may  in  no  way  be  interfered 
with,  by  his  attention  being  called  to  the  westward." 

In  March,  1848,  the  Admiralty  announced  their  inten- 
tion of  rewarding  the  crews  of  any  whaling  ships  that 
brought  accurate  information  of  tlie  missing  expedition, 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


251 


trom 
•e  in 
rlvia- 
jipe 
cao's 
lias- 
Ted 

iton- 
thnt 
;ion. 


with  the  sum  of  100  guineas  or  more,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances. Lady  1  ranklin  also  about  the  same  time 
oftered  rewards  of  2000/.  and  3000/.,  to  be  distributed 
among  the  owner,  officers,  and  crew  discovering  and 
affording  relief  to  her  husband,  or  making  extraordi- 
nary exertions  for  the  above  object,  and,  if  required, 
bringing  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  party  to  England. 
In  March,  1850,  the  following  further  rewards  were 
offered  by  the  British  government  to  persons  of  any 
country : — 

1st.  To  any  party  or  person  who  in  the  judgment  of 
the  Board  of  Admiralty,  shall  discover  and  effectually 
relieve  the  crews  of  11.  M.  ships  Erebus  and  Terror,  the 
sum  of  20,000/.,  or, 

2d.  To  any  party  or  parties,  &c.,  who  shall  discover 
and  effectually  relieve  any  portion  of  the  crews,  or  shall 
convey  sucli  intelligence  as  shall  lead  to  the  relief  of 
any  of  the  crew,  the  sum  of  10,000/. 

3d.  To  any  party  or  parties  who  shall  by  virtue  of 
his  or  their  efforts,  first  succeed  in  ascertaining  their 
fiite,  10,000/. 

In  a  dispatch  from  Sir  George  Simpson  to  Mr.  Kae, 
dated  Lachine,  the  2 1st  of  January,  1850,  he  says: — 
"If  they  be  still  alive,  I  feel  satisfied  that  every  effort 
it  may  be  in  the  power  of  man  to  make  to  succor  them 
will  be  exerted  by  yourself  and  the  Company's  officers 
in  Mackenzie  Eiver ;  but  should  your  late  search  have 
lin fortunately  ended  in  disappointment,  it  is  the  desire 
of  the  Company  that  you  renew  your  explorations  next 
summer,  if  possible. 

"By  the  annexed  correspondence  you  will  observe  that 
the  opinion  in  England  appears  to  be  that  onr  explora- 
tions ought  to  be  more  particularly  directed  to  that  por- 
tion of  the  Northern  Sea  lying  l)etween  Cape  Walker 
on  the  east,  Melville  Island  and  Banks'  Land  to  the 
north,  and  the  continental  shore  or  the  Victoria  Islands 
to  the  south. 

"  As  these  limits  are  believed  to  embrace  the  course 
that  woidd  have  been  pursued  by  Sir  John  Franklin, 
Cape  "Walker  being  one  of  the  points  he  was  particu- 


'm 


;..tl 


'  t'iK 


•  ii 


252 


rUOORESS   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


more  energetic 
whoever 


larly  instructed  to  make  for,  you  will  therefore  he 
pleased,  immediately  on  the  receipt  of  this  letter,  to  fit 
out  another  exploring  party,  to  proceed  in  the  direction 
above  indicated,  but  varying  the  route  that  may  have 
been  followed  last  summer,  which  party,  besides  their 
own  examination  of  the  coast  and  islands,  should  be 
instructed  to  oft'er  liberal  rewards  to  the  Esquimaux  to 
search  for  some  vestiges  of  the  missing  expedition,  and 
similar  rewards  should  be  oiFered  to  the  Indians  inhab 
iting  near  the  coast  and  Peel's  River,  and  the  half-bred 
hunters  of  Mackenzie  River,  the  latter  being,  perhaps, 
than  the  former  ;  assuring  them  that 
may  procure  authentic  intelligence  will  be 
largely  rewarded. 

"  Simultaneously  with  the  expedition  to  proceed  to- 
ward Cape  Walker,  one  or  two  small  parties  should  be 
dispatched  to  the  westward  of  the  Mackenzie,  in  the 
direction  of  Point  Barrow,  one  of  which  might  pass  over 
to  the  Youcon  River,  and  descending  that  stream  to  the 
sea,  carry  on  their  explorations  in  that  quarter,  while 
the  other,  going  down  the  Mackenzie,  miglit  trace  the 
coast  thence  toward  the  Youcon.  And  these  parties 
must  also  be  instructed  to  offer  rewards  to  the  natives 
to  prosecute  the  search  in  all  directions. 

"By  these  means  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in 
the  course  of  one  year  so  minute  a  search  maj'^  be  made 
of  the  coast  and  the  islands,  that  in  the  event  of  the 
expedition  having  passed  in  that  direction,  some  trace 
of  their  progress  would  certainly  be  discovered. 

"  From  your  experience  in  arctic  discovery,  and  {le- 
culiar  qualifications  for  such  an  undertaking,  I  am  in 
hopes  you  may  be  enabled  yourself  to  assume  the 
command  of  the  party  to  proceed  to  the  northward  ; 
and,  as  leaders  of  the  two  parties  to  explore  the  coast 
to  tiie  westward  of  the  Mackenzie,  you  will  have  to 
select  such  officers  of  the  Company's  service  within 
the  district  as  may  appear  best  qualified  for  the  duty: 
Mr.  Murray,  I  think,  would  be  a  very  fit  man  for  c»ne 
of  tlie  leaders,  and  if  one  party  be  sent  by  way  of  the 
Youcon,  he  might  take  charge  of  it.     In  the  event  of 


OPINIONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


253 


your  going  on  this  expedition,  you  will  be  pleased  to 
make  over  the  charge  of  the  district  to  Chief  Trader 
Bell  during  your  absence. 

"In  case  you  may  be  short-handed,  I  have  by  this 
conveyance  instructed  Chief  Factor  Ballenden  to  en- 
gage in  Red  River  ten  choice  men,  accustomed  to  boat- 
ing, and  well  fitted  for  such  a  duty  as  will  be  required 
of  them;  and  if  there  be  a  chance  of  their  reaching 
Mackenzie  River,  or  even  Athabasca,  before  the  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice,  to  forward  them  immediately. 

"  Should  the  season,  however,  be  too  far  advanced 
to  enable  them  to  accomplish  the  journey  by  winter 
traveling,  Mr.  Ballenden  is  directed  to  increase  the 
party  to  fourteen  men,  with  a  guide  to  be  dispatched 
from  Red  River  immediately  after  the  opening  of  the 
navigation,  in  two  boats,  laden  with  provisions  and 
flour,  and  a  few  bales  of  clothing,  in  order  to  meet,  in 
some  degree,  the  heavy  drain  that  will  be  occasioned 
on  our  resources  in  provisions  and  necessary  supplies 
in  Mackenzie  River.  The  leader  of  this  party  from 
Red  River  may,  perhaps,  be  qualified  to  act  as  the 
conductor  of  one  of  the  parties  to  examine  the  coasi 
to  the  westward." 

On  the  5th  of  February,  1850,  another  consultation 
took  place  at  the  Admiralty  among  those  officers  most 
experienced  in  these  matters,  and  their  opinion  f  in 
writing  were  solicited.  It  is  important,  therefore,  to 
submit  these  as  fully  as  possible  to  the  consideration 
of  the  reader. 

The  first  is  the  report  of  the  hydrographer  of  the 
Admiralty,  dated  the  29th  of  January,  1850:  — 

"  Memorandum  hy  Rear- Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beau- 
fort, K.  G.  B, 

"The  Behring's  Strait  expedition  being  at  length 
iairly  off^,  it  appears  to  me  to  be  a  duty  to  submit  to 
Iheir  Lordships  that  no  time  should  now  be  lost  in 
equipping  another  set  of  vessels  to  renew  the  search 
on  the  opposite  side,  through  Baffin's  Bay ;  and  this 
being  the  fifth  year  that  the  Erebus  and  Terror  have 


f  •! 


254 


PROGKESS    OF   AKCTIO    DISCOVEKY. 


been  absent,  and  probably  reduced  to  only  casual  sup- 
])lie8  of  food  and  fuel,  it  may  be  assumed  that  this 
search  should  be  so  complete  and  eft'ectual  as  to  leave 
unexamined  no  place  in  which,  by  any  of  the  supposi- 
tions that  have  been  put  forward,  it  is  at  all  likely  they 
may  be  found. 

"  Sir  John  Franklin  is  not  a  man  to  treat  his  orders 
with  levity,  and  therefore  his  first  attempt  was  un- 
doubtedly made  in  the  direction  of  Melville  Island,  and 
not  to  tlie  westward.  If  foiled  in  that  attempt,  he 
naturally  hauled  to  the  southward,  and  using  Banks' 
Land  as  a  barrier  against  the  northern  ice,  he  would 
try  to  make  westing  under  its  lee.  Thirdly,  if  both  of 
these  roads  were  found  closed  against  his  advance,  he 
perhaps  availed  himself  of  one  of  the  four  passages 
between  the  Parry  Islands,  including  the  Wellington 
Channel.  Or,  lastly,  he  may  have  returned  to  Baffin's 
Bay  and  taken  the  inviting  opening  of  Jones'  Sound. 

"  All  those  four  tracks  must  therefore  be  diligently 
examined  before  the  search  can  be  called  complete, 
and  the  only  method  of  rendering  that  exjimination 
prompt  and  efficient  will  be  through  the  medium  of 
steam ;  while  only  useless  expense  and  reiterated  diS' 
appointment  will  attend  the  best  efforts  of  sailing  ves- 
sels, leaving  the  lingering  survivors  of  the  lost  ships^ 
as  well  as  their  relatives  in  England,  in  equal  despair. 
Had  Sir  James  Ross  been  in  a  steam  vessel,  he  would 
not  have  been  surrounded  with  ice  and  swept  out  of 
the  Strait,  but  by  shooting  under  the  protection  of  Leo- 
pold Island,  he  would  have  waited  there  till  that  fatal 
field  had  passed  to  the  eastward,  and  he  then  would 
have  found  a  perfectly  open  sea  up  to  Melville  Island. 

"The  best  application  of  steam  to  ice-going  vesseh 
would  be  Ericson's  screw ;  but  the  screw  or  paddles  of 
any  of  our  moderate-sized  vessels  might  be  made  t( 
elevate  with  facility.  Vessels  so  fitted  would  not  re- 
quire to  be  fortified  in  an  extraordinary  degree,  not 
more  than  common  whalers.  From  the  log-like  quies- 
cence with  which  a  sailing  vessel  must  await  the  crush 
of  two  approaching  floes,  they  must  be  as  strong  aa 


OPINIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


255 


he 


wood  and  iron  can  make  them  ;  but  the  steamer  slips 
out  of  tlie  reach  of  tlie  collision,  waits  till  the  shock  is 
past,  and  then  profiting  by  their  mutual  recoil,  darts 
at  once  through  the  transient  opening. 

"Two  such  vessels,  and  each  of  them  attended  by 
two  tenders  laden  with  coals  and  provisions,  would  be 
Butliciont  for  the  main  lines  of  search.  Every  promi- 
nent point  of  land  where  notices  might  have  been  left, 
would  be  visited,  details  of  their  own  procc  lings  would 
be  deposited,  and  each  of  the  tenders  would  be  left  in 
proper  positions,  as  points  of  rendezvous  on  which  to 
full  back. 

"Besides  these  two  branches  of  the  expedition,  it 
would  be  well  to  allow  the  whaling  captain  (Penny,)  to 
carry  out  his  proposed  undertaking.  His  local  knowl- 
edge, his  thorougn  acquaintance  with  all  the  mysteries 
of  the  ice  navigation,  and  his  well  known  skill  and 
resources,  seem  to  point  him  out  as  a  most  valuable 
auxiliary. 

"  But  whatever  vessels  may  be  chosen  for  this  service, 
I  would  beseech  their  lordsnips  to  expedite  them  ;  all 
our  attempts  have  been  deferred  too  long  ;  and  there  is 
now  reason  to  believe  that  very  early  in  the  season,  in 
May  or  even  in  April,  Baffin's  Bay  may  be  crossed  be- 
fore the  accumulated  ice  of  winter  spreads  over  its 
surface.  If  they  arrive  rather  too  soon,  they  m^xy  very 
advantageously  await  the  proper  moment  in  some  of 
the  Greenland  harbors,  preparing  themselves  for  the 
coming  eftbrts  and  struggles,  and  procuring  Esquimaux 
interpreters. 

"  In  order  to  press  every  resource  into  the  service  of 
tliis  noble  enterprise,  the  vessels  should  be  extensively 
furnished  with  means  for  blasting  and  sj^litting  the  ice, 
perhaps  circular  saws  might  be  adapted  to  the  steamers, 
a  launch  to  each  party,  with  a  small  rotary  engine, 
sledges  for  the  shore,  and  light  boats  with  sledge  bear- 
ings for  broken  ice-fields,  balloons  for  the  distribution 
of  advertisements,  and  kites  for  the 


plosi 


lofty 


fire-balls.     And,  lastly,  they  should  have  vigorous  and 
numerous  crews,  so  that  when  detachments  are  away, 


25G 


TROGKESS  OF  AliCTIO   DISCOVEKY. 


other  operations  should  not  be  intermitted  for  want  of 
physical  strength. 

"  As  the  council  of  the  Royal  Society,  some  time  ago, 
thought  proper  to  remind  tlieir  lordships  of  the  propriety 
of  instituting  this  search,  it  would  be  fair  now  to  call  on 
that  learned  body  for  all  the  advice  and  suggestions, 
that  science  and  philosophy  can  contribute  toward  the 
accomplishment  of  the  great  object  on  which  the  eyes 
of  all  England  and  indeed  of  all  the  world,  are  n  " 
entirely  fixed." 

Captain  Beechey,  writing  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Ad- 
mii-alty,  7tii  of  February,  1850,  says : — 

"  The  urgent  nature  of  the  case  alone  can  justify  the 
use  of  ordinary  steamers  in  an  icy  sea,  and  great  pru- 
dence and  judgment  will  be  required  on  the  part  of 
their  commanders,  to  avoid  being  disabled  by  collision 
and  pressure. 

"  I  would  also  add,  as  an  exception,  that  I  think  Leo- 
pold Island  and  Cape  Walker,  if  possible,  should  both 
be  examined,  prior  to  any  attempt  being  made  to  pene- 
trate in  other  directions  from  Barrow's  Strait,  and  that 
the  bottom  of  Regent  Inlet,  about  the  Pelly  Islands, 
should  not  be  left  unexamined.  In  the  memorandum 
submitted  to  their  lordships  on  the  17th  of  January, 
1849,  this  quarter  was  considered  of  importance ;  and 
I  am  still  of  opinion,  that,  had  Sir  John  Franklin  aban- 
doned his  vessels  near  the  coast  of  America,  and  much 
short  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  he  would  have  preferred 
the  probability  of  retaining  the  use  of  his  boats  until 
he  found  relief  in  Barrow's  Strait,  to  risking  an  over- 
land journey  via  tlie  before-mentioned  river ;  it  must 
be  remembered,  that  at  the  time  he  sailed.  Sir  George 
Back's  discovery  had  rendered  it  very  probable  that 
Boothia  was  an  island. 

"  An  objection  to  the  necessity  of  this  search  seems 
to  be,  that  had  Sir  John  Franklin  taken  that  route,  he 
would  liave  reached  Fury  Beach  already.  However,  I 
cannot  but  think  there  will  yet  be  found  some  good 
grounds  for  the  Esquimaux  sketch,  and  that  their  mean- 
iuir  has  been  misunderstood  ;  and  as  Mr.  M'Cormick  is 


OPINIONS  OF  AKCnO   ''OYAGERS. 


257 


that 


an  enterprising  person,  wliose  name  has  already  been 
before  their  lorclships,  I  would  submit,  whether  a  boat 
expedition  from  Leopold  Depot,  under  his  direction, 
would  not  satisfactorily  set  at  rest  all  inquiry  upon  this, 
now  the  only  quarter  unprovided  for." 

Captain  Sir  W".  E.  Parry  states  : — 

"I  am  decidedly  of  opinion  that  the  main  search 
should  be  renewed  in  the  direction  of  Melville  Island 
and  Banks'  Land,  includina;  as  a  part  of  the  plan  the 
thorough  examination  of  Wellington  Strait  and  of  tlie 
other  similar  openings  between  the  islands  of  the  group 
bearing  my  name.  I  entertain  a  growing  conviction  of 
the  probability  of  the  missing  ships,  or  at  least  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  crews,  being  shut  up  at  Mel- 
ville Island,  Banks'  Land,  or  in  that  neighborhood, 
agreeing  as  I  do  with  Rear  Admiral  Sir  Francis  Beau- 
fort, in  his  report  read  yesterday  to  the  Board  that '  Sir 
John  Franklin  is  not  a  man  to  treat  his  orders  v/ith 
levity,'  which  he  would  be  justly  chargeable  with  doing 
if  he  attached  greater  weight  to  any  notions  he  might 
personally  entertain  than  to  the  Admiralty  instructions, 
which  he  well  knew  to  be  founded  on  the  experience  of 
former  attempts,  and  on  the  best  information  whicli 
could  then  be  obtained  on  the  subject.  For  these  rea- 
sons I  can  scarcely  doubt  that  he  would  employ  at  least 
two  seasons,  those  of  1845  and  1846,  in  an  unremitting 
attempt  to  penetrate  directly  westward  or  southwestward 
to  Behring's  Strait. 

"  Supposing  this  conjecture  to  be  correct,  nothing  can 
be  more  likely  than  that  Sir  John  Franklin's  ships,  hav- 
ing penetrated  in  seasons  of  ordinary  temperature  a 
considerable  distance  in  that  direction,  have  been  locked 
up  by  successive  seasons  of  extraordinary  I'igor,  thus 
baffling  the  efforts  of  their  weakened  crews  to  escape 
from  the  ice  in  either  of  the  two  directions  by  Behring's 
or  Barrow's  Straits. 

"  And  here  I  cannot  but  add,  that  my  own  conviction 
of  this  probability — for  it  is  only  with  probabilities 
that  we  have  to  deal  —  has  been  greatlv  stronsjtiioned 
by  a  letter  I  have  lately  received  from  Col.  Sabine,  of 


258 


rUOORESS   OP   ARCTIC    DIflCOVEKY. 


the  Royal  Artillery,  of  which  I  had  the  honor  to  sub- 
mit a  copy  to  Sir  Francis  Baring.  Colonel  Sahine 
having  accompanied  two  successive  expeditions  to  Bat- 
fin's  Bay,  including  tliat  under  mv  command  whicli 
reached  Melville  Island,  I  consider  fiis  views  to  be  well 
worthy  of  their  lordships'  attention  on  this  part  of  the 
subject. 

"It  must  be  admitteil,  however,  that  considerable 
weight  is  due  to  the  conjecture  which  has  been  oiiered 
by  persons  capable  of  forming  a  sound  judgment,  that 
having  tailed,  as  1  did,  in  the  attempt  to  penetrate  west- 
ward. Sir  John  Franklin  might  deem  it  j)rudent  to  re- 
trace his  steps,  and  was  enal>led  to  do  so,  in  order  to  try 
a  more  northern  route,  either  through  Wellington  Strait 
or  some  other  of  tliose  openings  between  the  I'arry 
Islands  to  which  I  have  already  referred.  And  thi:^  idea 
receives  no  small  importance  from  the  fact,  (said  to  be 
beyond  a  doubt,)  of  Sir  John  Franklin  having,  before 
his  departure,  expressed  such  an  intention  in  case  of 
failing  to  the  westward. 

"I  cannot,  therefore,  consider  the  intended  search  to 
be  complete  without  making  the  examination  of  Wel- 
lington Strait  and  its  adjacent  openings  a  distinct  part 
of  the  plan,  to  be  performed  by  one  portion  of  the 
vessels  which  I  shall  presently  propose  for  the  main 
expedition. 

"  Much  stress  has  likewise  been  laid,  and  I  think  not 
altogether  without  reason,  on  the  propriety  of  search- 
ing Jones'  and  Smith's  Sounds  in  the  northwest  parts  of 
Baffin's  Bay.  Considerabl :  interest  has  lately  been  at- 
tached to  Jones'  Sound,  from  the  fact  of  its  having  been 
recently  navigated  by  at  least  one  enterprising  whaler, 
and  found  to  be  of  great  width,  free  from  ice,  with  a 
swell  from  the  westward,  and  having  no  land  visible  from 
the  mast-head  in  that  direction.  It  seems  more  than 
probable,  therefore,  that  it  may  be  found  to  communi- 
cate with  Wellington  Strait ;  so  that  if  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's ships  have  been  detained  anywhere  to  the  north- 
ward Oi  the  Parry  Islands,  it  would  be  by  Jones'  Sourtd 
that  he  would  probably  endeavor  to  efi'ect  his  escape, 


OPINIONS   AND   SUOGEfiTIONS. 


25a 


ratlicT  than  by  the  less  direct  route  of  Barrow's  Strait. 
I  do  not  luvself  attach  much  importance  to  the  idea  of 
Sir  Joini  Irankliii  haviiii^  so  far  retraced  his  stops  as 
to  come  back  through  Lancaster  Sound,  and  recom- 
mence his  enterprise  by  entering  Jones'  Sound  ;  but 
tlie  possibility  of  his  attempting  his  escape  tlirough 
this  lino  opening,  and  the  report,  (though  somcwlu  u 
vague,)  of  a  cairn  of  stones  seen  by  one  of  the  winders 
on  a  headland  within  it,  seems  to  me  to  render  it  hi<5hly 
expedient  to  set  this  question  at  rest  by  a  search  in 
this  direction,  including  the  examination  of  Smith's 
Sound  also." 

I  beg  to  cite  next  an  extract  from  the  letter  of  Dr.  Sir 
John  liichardson  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty  : — 

^^Ilaslar  Hospital^  Gosport^  ^th  of  Fehruciry^  1850. 

"  With  respect  to  the  direction  in  which  a  successful 
search  may  be  predicated  with  the  most  confidence, 
very  various  opinions  have  been  put  forth;  some  have 
supposed  either  that  the  ships  were  lost  before  reaching 
Lancaster  Sound,  or  that  Sir  John  Franklin,  finding  an 
impassable  barrier  of  ice  in  the  entrance  of  Lancaster 
Sound,  may  have  sought  for  a  passage  through  Jones' 
Sound.  I  do  not  feel  inclined  to  give  much  weight  to 
either  conjecture.  When  we  consider  the  strength  of 
the  Erebus  and  Terror,  calculated  to  resist  the  strongest 
pressure  to  which  ships  navigating  Batfin's  Bay  have 
been  known  to  be  subject,  in  conjunction  witii  the  fact 
that,  of  the  many  whalers  which  have  been  crushed  or 
abandoned  since  the  commencement  of  the  fishery,  the 
crews,  or  at  least  the  greater  part  of  them,  have,  in 
almost  every  case,  succeeded  in  reaching  other  ships,  or 
the  Danish  settlements,  we  cannot  believe  that  tiie  two 
discovery  ships,  which  were  seen  on  tlie  edge  of  the 
middle  ice  so  early  as  tlie  2Gth  of  July,  can  have  been 
80  suddenly  ana  totally  overwhelmed  as  to  preclude 
some  one  of  the  intelligent  officers,  whose  minds  were 
preptv.ed  for  every  emergency,  with  their  select  crews 
of  men,  experienced  in  the  ice,  from  placing  a  boat  on 
the  ice  or  water,  and  thus  carrying  intelligence  of  the 


I 


200 


PROORES8   OF   ARCTIC   DWCOVICRY. 


(liBUster  to  one  of  the  im\ny  whalers  which  remained  for 
two  months  iiftur  thiit  (lute  in  those  setts,  and  this  in  the 
absence  of  any  unusual  catastrophe  among  the  tishing 
vessels  that  season. 

"  With  respect  to  Jones'  Sound,  it  is  admitted  by  all 
who  are  intimately  acquainted  with  Sir  ilohn  Franklin, 
that  his  first  endeavor  would  be  to  act  up  to  the  letter 
of  his  instructions,  and  that  therefore  he  would  nut 
lightly  abandon  the  attempt  to  pass  Jjancaster  Sound. 
From  the  logs  of  the  whalers  year  after  year,  we  letii-n 
that  when  once  they  have  succeeded  in  rounding  the 
middle  ice,  they  enter  Lancaster  Sound  with  tsurility  : 
had  Sir  John  Franklin,  then,  gained  that  Sound,  and 
from  the  premises  we  appear  to  be  fully  justified  in 
concluding  that  he  did  so,  and  had  he  afterward  en- 
countered a  compact  field  of  ice,  barring  Barrow's 
Strait  and  Wellington  Sound,  he  would  then,  after  be- 
ing convinced  that  he  would  lose  the  season  in  attempt 
ing  to  bore  through  it,  have  borne  up  for  Jones'  Sound, 
but  not  until  he  had  erected  a  conspicuous  landmark, 
and  lodged  a  memorandum  of  his  reason  for  deviating 
from  his  instructions. 

"The  absence  of  such  a  signal-post  in  Lancaster 
Sound  is  an  argument  against  the  expedition  having 
turned  back  from  thence,  and  is,  on  the  other  lumd,  a 
strong  su])port  to  the  suspicion  that  Barrow's  Strait  was 
as  open  in  1845  as  when  Sir  W.  E.  Parry  first  ijassed 
it  in  1811)  ;  that,  such  being  the  case,  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, without  delay  and  without  landing,  pushed  on  to 
Cape  Walker,  and  that,  subsequently,  in  endeavoring 
to  penetrate  to  the  southwest,  he  became  involved  in 
the  drift  ice,  which,  there  is  reason  to  believe,  urged 
by  the  prevailing  winds  and  the  set  of  the  flood  tides, 
is  carried  toward  Coronation  Gulf,  through  channels 
more  or  less  intricate.  Should  he  have  found  no  open- 
ing at  Cape  Walker,  he  would,  of  course,  have  souglit 
one  further  to  the  west  ;  or,  finding  the  southerly  and 
westerly  opening  blocked  by  ice,  he  might  have  tried  a 
northern  ])assage. 

"  In  either  case,  the  plan  of  search  propounded  by 


r 


OPINIONS    AM)   HL'OOKSTIONS. 


2G1 


Sir  Francis  Boaufoi't  seems  to  provide  against  every 
contingency,  especially  when  taken  in  conjunction  with 
Captain  Collinson's  expedition,  via  Behring's  Strait, 
and  the  boat  parties  from  the  Mackenzie. 

"  1  do  not  venture  to  offer  an  opinion  on  the  strength 
or  equipment  of  the  vessels  to  bo  employed,  or  other 
merely  nautical  questions,  further  than  by  remarking, 
that  the  use  of  the  small  vessels,  which  forms  part  of 
Sir  I'rancis  lieaufort's  scheme,  is  supported  by  the  suc- 
cess of  the  early  navigators  with  their  very  small  craft, 
and  the  late  gallant  exploit  of  Mr.  Shedden,  in  round- 
ing ley  Cape  and  Point  Barrow,  in  the  Naucy  Dawson 
yacht. 

"  And  further,  with  respect  to  the  comparative  merits 
of  the  paddles  and  screw  in  the  arctic  seas,  I  beg  leave 
merely  to  observe,  that  as  long  as  the  screw  is  immersed 
in  water  it  will  continue  to  act,  irrespective  of  the  tern 
perature  of  the  air  ;  but  when,  as  occurs  late  in  the 
autumn,  the  atmosphere  is  suddenly  cooled  below  the 
freezihg  point  of  sea  water,  by  a  northerly  gale,  while 
the  sea  itself  remains  warmer,  the  paddles  will  be 
speedily  clogged  by  ice  accumulating  on  the  floats  as 
they  rise  through  the  air  in  every  revolution.  An  in- 
cident recorded  by  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  furnishes  a  strik- 
ing illustration  of  the  powerful  action  of  a  cold  wind  ; 
I  allude  to  a  fish  having  been  thrown  up  by  the  spray 
against  the  bows  of  the  Terror,  and  firmly  frozen  there, 
during  a  gale  in  a  high  southerly  latitude.  Moreover, 
even  with  the  aid  oi  a  ready  contrivance  for  topping 
the  paddles,  the  flatness  or  hollowness  of  the  sides  of  a 
paddle  steamer  renders  her  less  fit  for  sustaining  pres- 
sure ;  the  machinery  is  more  in  the  way  of  oblique 
beams  for  strengthening,  and  she  is  less  efticient  as  a 
sailing  vessel  when  the  steam  is  let  off." 

Memorandum  inclosed  in  Dr.  WCormicTc's  Letter 
of  the  let  of  January^  1850. 

"  In  the  month  of  April  last,  I  laid  before  my  Lords 
Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  a  plan  of  search  for 
the  missing  expedition  under  the  command  of  Captain 


■■f.:^ 

';*. 


■5f 


202 


PROGKESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


Sir  John  Franklin,  by  means  of  a  boat  expedition  up 
Jones'  and  Sniitli's  Sounds,  volunteering  myself  to 
conduct  it. 

"  In  that  plan  I  stated  the  reasons  which  had  induced 
nie  to  direct  my  attention  more  especially  to  the  open- 
ings at  the  head  of  Baffin's  Bay,  which,  at  the  time, 
were  not  included  within  the  general  scheme  of  search. 

"■AVellington  Channel,  however,  of  all  the  probable 
openings  into  the  Polar  Sea,  possesses  the  highest  de- 
gree ot"  interest,  and  the  exploration  of  it  is  of  such 
paramount  importance,  that  I  should  most  unquestion- 
ably have  comprised  it  within  my  plan  of  search,  had 
not  Her  Majesty's  ships  Enterprise  and  Investigator 
been  employed  at  the  time  in  Barrow's  Strait  for  the 
express  jiurpose  of  examining  this  inlet  and  Cape 
Walker,  two  of  the  most  essential  points  of  search  in 
the  whole  track  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror  to  the  west- 
ward ;  being  those  points  at  the  very  threshold  of  his 
enterprise,  from  which  Sir  John  Franklin  would  take 
his  departure  from  the  known  to  the  unknown,  whether 
he  shaped  a  southwesterly  course  from  the  latter,  or 
attempted  the  passage  in  a  higher  latitude  from  the 
former  point. 

"  The  return  of  the  sea  expedition  from  Port  Leo- 
pold, and  the  overland  one  from  the  Mackenzie  River, 
both  alike  unsuccessful  in  their  search,  leaves  the  fate 
of  the  gallant  Franklin  and  his  companions  as  proble- 
matical as  ever ;  in  fact,  the  case  stands  precisely  as  it 
did  two  years  ago ;  the  work  is  yet  to  be  begun ;  every 
thing  remains  to  be' accomplished. 

"  In  renewal  of  the  search  in  the  ensuing  spring, 
more  would  be  accomplished  in  boats  than  in  any  other 
way,  uot  only  by  Beh ring's  Strait,  but  from  the  east- 
ward. For  the  difficulties  attendant  on  icy  navigation 
which  form  so  insuperable  a  barrier  to  the  progress  of 
ships,  would  be  readily  surmounted  by  boats ;  by  mcane 
of  which  the  coast  line  may  be  closely  examined  for 
cairns  of  stones,  under  which  Sir  John  Fi-anklin  would 
most  indubitably  deposit  memorials  of  his  pi  ogress 
'r>  all  prominent  positions,  as  opportunities  might  offer. 


OPINtONS   AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


203 


',  or 
the 


ifif. 


>gross 
offer. 


"The  discovery  of  one  of  these  mementos  would,  in 
a.  {  probability,  aiford  a  clue  that  might  lead  to  the  res- 
cue of  our  enterprising  countrymen,  ere  another  and 
sixth  winter  close  in  upon  them,  should  they  be  still 
in  existence ;  and  the  time  has  not  yet  arrived  for  aban- 
doning hope. 

"In  renewing  once  more  the  offer  of  my  services, 
which  I  do  most  cheerfully,  I  see  no  reason  for  chang- 
ing the  opinions  I  entertained  last  spring;  subsequent 
events  have  only  tended  to  confirm  them.  I  then  be- 
lieved, and  I  do  so  still,  after  a  long  and  mature  con- 
sideration of  the  subject,  that  Sir  Joiin  Franklin's  ships 
have  been  arrested  in  a  high  latitude,  and  beset  in  the 
heavy  polar  ice  northward  of  the  Parry  Islands,  and 
that  their  probable  course  thithei  has  been  through  the 
Wellington  Channel,  or  one  of  the  sounds  at  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  Baffin's  Bay. 

"  This  appears  to  me  to  be  the  only  view  of  the  case 
that  can  in  any  way  account  for  the  entire  absence  of 
all  tidings  of  them  throughout  so  protracted  a  period 
of  time  (unless  all  have  perished  by  some  sudden  and 
overwhelming  catastrophe.) 

"Isolated  as  their  position  would  be  under  such  cir- 
cumstances, any  attempt  to  reach  the  continent  of 
America  at  such  a  distance  would  be  hopeless  in  the 
extreme :  and  the  mere  chance  of  any  jjarty  from  the 
ships  reaching  the  top  of  Baffin's  Bay  at  the  very  mo- 
ment of  a  whaler's  brief  and  uncertain  visit  would  be 
Attended  with  by  far  too  great  a  risk  to  justify  the  at- 
tempt, for  failure  would  insure  inevitable  destruction 
to  the  whole  party;  therefore  tlieir  only  alternative 
would  be  to  keep  together  in  their  shi]is,  should  no  dis- 
aster have  happened  to  them,  and  by  husbanding  their 
remaining  resources,  eke  them  out  with  whatever  wild 
animals  may  come  within  their  reach. 

"  Had  Sir  John  Franklin  been  able  to  shape  a  south- 
westerly course  from  Cape  "Walker,  as  directed  by  his 
instructions,  the  lu-obabilitv  is,  some  intellia-once  of 


pr 


him  would  ha\e  reached  this  countiy  era  this,  (n(>arly 
five  years  havini:'  already  elapsed  since  his  dcjKirture 

1;? 


2G4 


ri{OGii]:ss  OF  arctic  discoveuy. 


from  it.)  Parties  would  have  beoii  sent  out  from  Ins 
ships,  either  in  the  direction  of  the  coast  of  America 
or  Barrow's  Strait,  whichever  happened  to  be  the  most 
accessible.  Esquimaux  would  have  been  fallen  in 
with,  and  tidings  of  the  long-absent  expedition  have 
been  obtained. 

••  J? .filing  in  penetrating  beyond  Cape  Walker,  Sir 
John  Franklin  would  have  left  some  notice  of  his  fu- 
ture intentions  on  that  spot,  or  the  nearest  accessible 
one  to  it;  and  should  he  then  retrace  his  course  for  the 
"Wellington  Channel,  the  most  ])robable  conjecture,  lie 
would  not  pass  up  that  inlet  without  depositing  a  fur- 
ther account  of  his  proceedings,  either  on  the  western 
or  eastern  point  of  the  entrance  to  it. 

"Therefore,  should  my  proposal  meet  with  their 
Lordships'  a])probatiou,  I  would  most  respectfully  sub- 
mit, that  the  ])arty  I  have  volunteered  to  conduct 
should  be  hinded  at  the  entrance  to  the  "Wellinti'tou 
Channel,  or  the  nearest  point  attainable  by  any  ship 
that  their  Lordships  may  deem  iit  to  employ  in  a  fu- 
ture search,  consistently  with  any  other  services  that 
ship  may  have  to  perform  ;  and  should  a  landiiiii;  be 
effected  on  the  eastern  side,  I  would  |)ropose  commenc- 
ing the  search  from  Caj)e  Riley  or  Beechey  Island  in 
a  northerlv  direction,  carefullv  examiniuii-  everv  re- 
markable  headland  and  indentation  of  the  western 
coast  of  Xorth  Devon  for  memorials  of  the  missing  ex- 
])edition :  I  would  then  cross  over  the  Wellington 
Channel  aiul  continue  the  search  along  the  noi'theiu 
shore  of  Cornvvallis  Island,  extending  the  ex])loration 
to  the  westward  as  far  as  the  remaining  portion  ol'  iliu 
season  would  ])ormit,  so  as  to  secure  the  retreat  of  the 
party  before  the  winter  set  in,  returning  either  by  the 
eastern  or  western  side  of  Cornwall  is  Island,  as  cir- 
cumstances might  indicate  to  be  the  most  desirable  at 
the  time,  after  ascertaining  the  general  extent  and 
trending  of  the  shores  of  that  island. 

"As,  however,  it  would  be  highly  desirnble  that 
Joncv;'  Sound  s!i(iu1d  not  be  omitted  in  th(>  search,  nioro 
especially  as  a  whaler,  last  season,  reached  its  entrance 


rom  Ins 
Vmericii 
he  most 
lUen  in 
311  hiive 

Iker,  Sir 
f  his  fu- 
icessihle 
e  for  the 
iture,  lio 
ig  a  fiir- 
westeni 

th    their 
iilly  sub- 
conduct 
;llin<2:tou 
iny  ship 
I  in  a  t'u- 
pes  that 
ling  be 
nunonc- 
huul  in 
:erv  I'o- 
western 
sin  (I'  ex- 
llin<i:t()n 
oi'theru 
loi'iUinu 
1  ol'  ihc 
of  the 
l)_v  the 
as  cir- 
'iible  at- 
nt  aiul 

0  that 
I,  nioi'ii 
it  rill  ice 


OnXIONS   ANT)   SUGGI•:STI0^'8. 


265 


and  reported  it  o])cn,  I  would  further  propose,  that  the 
Bliip  conveying  tlie  exploring;  party  out  should  look  into 
this  opening  on  her  way  to  Lancaster  Sound,  if  circuni- 
Btances  permitted  of  her  doing  so  early  in  the  season  ; 
and,  if  found  to  be  free  from  ice,  the  attempt  might  be 
made  by  the  boat  expedition  to  push  through  it  to  the 
westward  in  this  latitude  ;  and  should  it  prove  to  be 
an  opening  into  tlie  Polar  Sea,  of  which  I  think  there 
can  be  little  doubt,  a  great  saving  of  time  and  distance 
would  be  accomplished.  Failing  in  this,  the  ship  should 
be  secured  in  some  central  position  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  "Wellington  Channel,  as  Vipoint  dhijyjpiii  to  fall  back 
upon  in  the  search  from  that  quarter. 

(Signed,)  11.  M'Coemick,  E.  N. 

"  TioiGlcenharn,  1st  of  January^  1850." 


Oiitline  of  a  Plan  of  an  Overland  Journey  to  the 
Polar  Sea^  hy  the  'Way  of  the  Coppermine  River, 
in  Search  of  Sir  John  JFranMhi^s  JExpeditlon^  sug- 
gested in  1847. 

"  If  Sir  John  Franklin,  guided  by  his  instructions, 
has  passed  througli  Barrow's  Strait,  and  shaped  a  soutii 
westerly  course,  from  the  meridian  of  Cape  ^,^^alker„ 
with  the  intention  of  gaining  the  northern  coast  of  the 
continent  of  America,  and  so  passing  through  the  Dol- 
pliin  and  Union  Strait,  along  the  shore  of  that  '-"uiti- 
nent,  to  Bohring's  Strait; 

'"  His  greatest  risk  of  detention  by  the  ice  tlirougli- 
out  tliis  course  would  be  found  between  tlie  ])arallels  of 
74°  and  iWf  nortli  latitude,  and  the  meridians  of  100° 
and  110°  west  longitude,  or,  in  other  words,  that  por- 
tion of  the  northwest  passage  which  yet  remains  unex- 
l)lored,  occupying  the  space  l)etv>'eon  tlie  westei'U  coa>t 
of  Bo(»thia  on  the  one  side,  and  the  island  or  islands 
forming  Banks'  and  Victoria  Lands  on  the  other. 

"Should  the  Erebus  and  Terror  have  been  beset  in 
the  heavy  drift-ice,  or  wrecked  among  it  and  the  bro- 
ken land,  which  in  all  ])i'obability  exists  there  while 
contending  with  the  prevalent  westerly  winds  in  this 
quarter  ; 


■:■! 


:.  I'  .  - 


if 


■p'  ■  'f.  '      \ 


f^■l 


ii«S 


266 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


<i    <«  1 


"  The  Coppermine  River  would  decidedly  offer  the 
most  direct  route  and  nearest  approach  to  that  portion 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  and,  after  crossing  Coronation  Gulf, 
tiie  average  breadth  of  the  Strait  between  the  Conti 
nent  and  Victoria  Land  is  only  about  twenty -two  miles. 

'•'  From  this  point  a  careful  search  should  be  com- 
menced in  the  direction  of  Banks'  Land  ;  the  interven- 
ing space  between  it  and  Victoria  Land,  occupying 
about  five  degrees,  or  little  more  than  300  miles,  could, 
1  think,  be  accomplished  in  one  season,  and  a  retreat  to 
winter  quarters  effected  before  the  winter  set  in.  As 
the  ice  in  the  Coi)permine  River  breaks  up  in  June, 
tlie  searching  party  ought  to  reach  the  sea  by  the  be- 
ginning of  August,  which  would  leave  two  of  the  best 
months  of  the  year  for  exploring  the  Polar  Sea,  viz  : 
August  and  September. 

"  As  it  would  be  highly  desirable  that  every  available 
day,  to  the  latest  x^eriod  of  the  season,  should  be  de- 
voted to  the  search,  I  should  propose  wintering  on  tlie 
coast  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine 
River,  wliicli  would  also  afford  a  favorable  position 
from  which  to  recommence  the  search  in  the  following 
spring,  should  the  first  season  prove  unsuccessful. 

"  Of  course  the  object  of  such  an  expedition  as  I  have 
proposed  is  not  with  the  view  of  taking  supplies  to  sucli 
a  numerous  party  as  Sir  John  Franklin  has  under  his 
command  ;  but  to  find  out  his  position,  and  ac(juaiut 
him  where  a  depot  of  provisions  would  be  stored  up 
for  himself  and  crews  at  my  proposed  winter  quarters, 
where  a  party  should  be  left  to  build  a  house,  establish 
a  fisher}^,  and  hunt  for  game,  during  the  absence  of  the 
searcliing  party. 

"  To  carry  out  this  plan  efficiently,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  should  be  requested  to  lend  their  powerful 
cooperation  in  furnishing  guides,  supplies  of  pemmican, 
&c.,  for  the  party  on  their  route  and  at  winter  quarters. 
Without  entering  into  details  here,  I  m.ay  observe,  that 
I  should  consider  one  boat,  combining  the  necessary 
requisites  in  her  construction  to  fit  her  for  either  the 
river  navigation,  or  that  of  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea, 


OriMONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS. 


207 


luwiiiii' 


AvoiiM  be  quite  siitiiclent,  with  a  crew  one  half  saiUirs, 
and  the  other  half  Canadian  boatmen  ;  the  latter  to  be 
engaged  at  Montreal,  f<.)r  which  place  I  woiikl  2)ropose 
leaving  England  in  the  month  of  February. 

"  Siiould  such  an  expedition  even  fail  in  its  main  ob- 
ject —  the  discovery  of  the  position  of  the  missing  ships 
and  their  crews,  the  long-sought-for  polar  2)assage  may 
be  accomplished. 

(Signed,)  E.  M'Cokmick,  R.  N. 

«  Woolwich,  1847." 


Ooj)]/  of  a  Letter  from  Lieutenant  Sherard  O.iborn  to 
the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty. 

"  L!aling^  Middlesex.^  Mh  January^  1850. 

"  My  Lords, —  A  second  attempt  to  reach  Sir  John 
Franklin's  expedition  being  about  to  be  tried  during 
tiie  present  year,  I  take  the  liberty  of  calling  your  at- 
tention to  the  inclosed  proposition  for  an  overhmd  party 
to  be  dispatched  to  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  with  a 
view  to  their  traversing  the  short  distance  l)etween  Cajje 
Lathurst  and  Banks'  Land.  My  reasons  for  thus  tres- 
passing on  your  attention  are  as  foll(.)ws  ; 

"•  1st.  General  o]iinion  places  tlie  lost  expedition  to 
the  west  of  Cape  Walker,  and  south  of  the  latitude  of 
Melville  Island. 

"  llie  distance  from  Cape  Bathurst  to  Banks'  Land 
is  only  301  miles,  and  on  reference  to  a  chart  it  will  be 
seen  that  nowhere  else  does  the  American  continent 
apDroach  so  near  to  the  supposed  position  of  Franklin's 


expe 


dition. 


2d.  As  a  starting  point.  Cape  Bathurst  offers  great 
advantages  ;  the  arrival  of  a  party  sent  there  from 
England  may  be  calculate<l  upon  to  a  day  ;  whereas 
the  arrival  of  Captain  Collinson  in  the  longitude  of 
Cape  Barrow,  or  that  of  an  eastern  expedition  in  Lan- 
caster Sound,  will  depend  upon  many  uncontrollable 
contingencies.  The  distance  to  be  performed  is  com- 
paratively little,  and  the  certainty  of  being  able  to  fail 
back  upon  supplies  offers  great  advantages.     Captain 


,  IS,  , 


'1 


^:n 


•i 


.All 


) 


-4 


'■k 


I 


I'll 


M-m 


268 


PEOWKKSS   OF   AliCriC   iHSOJVKKV. 


Collinson  will  have  680  miles  of  longitude  to  traverse 
between  Cape  Bairow  and  Banks'  Land.  An  Eastern 
Expedition,  if  op})osed  by  the  ice,  (as  Sir  James  Ross 
has  been,)  and  unable  to  ])roeeed  in  their  vessels  fartlier 
than  Leopold  Harbor,  will  liave  to  journey  on  foot  SrJO 
miles  to  reach  the  loni:;itude  of  ijaiiks'  Land,  and  if 
any  accident  occur  to  their  vessels,  they  will  be  in  as 
critical  a  position  as  those  they  go  to  seek. 

"  3d.  Banks'  Land  bears  from  Capo  Bathurst  X.  4P 
49'  E.  oO\i  miles,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  in 
the  summer  season  a  portion  of  this  distance  may  bo 
traverse  I  in  boats. 


4tii 


h  nd  5th.  Dr.  Richardson  confii-uis  previous  re- 
ports, of  ^he  ice  being  light  on  the  coast  east  of  the 
iltjcken/ie  River  to  Cape  Bathurst,  and  informs  us 
!hat  the  E">r|^nimaux  had  seen  no  ice  to  seaward  for  Uvu 
moo'.i^. 

'•'•  (»th.  Every  mile  traversed  nortliward  by  a  party 
from  Cape  Bathurst  would  be  over  that  unknown  space 
in  which  traces  of  Eranklin  may  be  expected. 

"  7th.  It  is  advisable  that  such  a  second  party  be 
dis])atched  from  Cape  Batliurst,  in  order  that  tlie  ])ros- 
ecution  of  Dr.  Rae's  examination  of  the  supposed  chan- 
nel between  "Wollaston  and  Victoria  Lands  may  in  no 
way  be  interfered  with  by  his  attention  being  called  to 
the  westward. 

"•Stli.  The  caches  of  provisions  made  at  different 
points  of  the  Mackenzie  and  at  Cape  l>athurst,  would 
enable  a  party  to  push  down  to  their  starting  point  witli 
great  celerity  directly  the  River  Mackenzie  opens, 
whicli  mav  be  as  earlv  as  Ma^. 

f.'  «/  * 

"I  would  also  remind  your  j.ordships  tluit  the  pro- 
posed expedi^'ion  would  '-arry  info  execution  a  very  im- 
portant clause  in  the  instructioas  given  to  Sir  James 
Ross  ;  viz  :  that  of  sending  exploring  pai'ties  from 
Banks'  Land  in  a  southwesterly  direction  toward  Cape 
Bath'^"st  or  Cape  Parry. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  beg  to  offer  my  willing  services  to- 
ward the  execution  of  the  proposed  plan  ;  and  seeking 
it  from  no  selfish  motives,  but  tlioroughly  impressed 


Ol'IMO.NS    AJ^l)   SUOGE8TIOiS"8. 


269 


with  its  feasibility,  you  may  rest  assured,  my  lords, 
sliould  1  have  tile  liouor  of  being  sent  upon  this  service, 
that  I  shall  not  disappoint  your  expectations. 
"1  have,  c'irc, 
(Signed,)  "  Sherard  Osboun,  Lieut.,  R.  N." 


Copy  of  a  Letter  from  Colonel  Sabine,  R.  A.,  to  Caj?- 
tain  Sir  W.  Edward  Parry. 

"  Castle-down  Terrace,  Hastings, 
"  VSth  of  January,  18.50. 

"There  can  be  little  doubt,  I  imagine,  in  the  mind  of 
any  one  who  has  read  attentively  Franklin's  instruc- 
tions, and,  (in  reference  to  tlieni,)  your  description  of 
the  state  of  the  ice  and  of  tlie  navigable  water  in  1819 
and  1820,  in  tlie  route  which  he  was  ordered  to  pursue; 
still  less,  I  think,  can  there  be  a  doubt  in  the  mind  of 
any  one  who  had  the  advantage  of  being  with  you  in 
those  years,  tliat  Fraidclin,  (always  sup[)0sing  no  pre- 
vious disaster,)  must  have  nuide  his  way  to  the  soutli- 
west  ])art  of  Alelville  Island  eitlier  in  1815  or  1810.  It 
has  been  said  tluit  1845  was  an  unfavorable  season,  and 
as  the  navigation  of  Davis' Strait  and  Ballin's  Bay  was 
new  to  Franklin,  we  may  regard  it  as  more  probable 
that  it  may  have  taken  liim  two  seasons  to  accomplish 
what  we  accom])lished  in  one.  So  far,  I  think,  guidc^d 
by  his  instructions  and  by  the  experience  gained  in 
1815)  and  1820,  we  may  reckon  pretty  confidently  on 
the  iirst  stage  of  his  pi-oceedings,  and  doubtless,  in  ins 
progress  he  would  have  left  memorials  in  the  usual 
manner  at  places  where  he  may  have  landed,  soma  of 
which  would  be  likely  to  fall  in  the  way  of  a  vessc  I  fol- 
lowing in  his  track.  From  tlie  west  end  of  Melville 
Island  our  inferences  as  to  his  further  proceedings  must 
become  more  conjectural,  being  contingent  on  th<  state 
of  the  ice  and  the  existence  of  navii>-uble  water  in  the 
particular  season.  If  he  found  the  ocean,  as  we  did, 
covered  to  the  west  and  S(tuth,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach  from  the  summit  of  the  highest  hills,  with  ice  of 
a  thickness  unparalleled  in  any  other  part  of  the  Polar 


"■■     ■TT-'J'- 


'''"■W^ 


# 


m 


270 


riv<>(iici:8s  oir  AUCTio  dihcovkky. 


*  1 


r';^i; 


Soji,  ho  woiilil,  ntU'rprobjihly  Wiiltiii^  tlin»ui:fh  oii«'  wliolo 
BoasDii  in  tlii5  \\o\n)  of  noim^  luvoriibU^  chniiiiji',  Imvi;  w- 
trsifotl  Ills  sfi>j>s,  in  obi'dicMU'c  lo  {\\v  second  part  of  his 
instrui'tions,  in  oi-iUm*  to  nock  an  opcnino"  to  tin;  north 
wliicli  nui»ht  i'on«hu't  to  a  more  open  Hoa.  In  this  cuso 
Bonio  nioniorial  of  tho  season  i)assoil  hy  him  at  tlio 
sontiiwvst  ond  of  Mclvillo  Island,  tuid  iilso  of  Ins  ])nr- 

})osi'  of  ivtraeinuj  ids  steps,  wonld  (h)uhtioss  iiavo  hoeu 
eft  hy  him  ;  and  slionhl  he  snhseipiently  iiavc  found 
an  o[)eninu;'  to  tlie  noi'tii,  presentini;'  a  favorable  appear- 
ance, there  also,  should  eiivumstanees  have  permitted, 
W'ouhl  a  memorial  have  been  left. 

"  lie  may,  however,  have  I'onnd  a  more  favorable 
Btate  of  thin:;s  at  the  southwest  end  of  Molville  Island 
than  we  did,  and  may  Iiave  been  loil  thereby  to  at- 
tempt to  force  a  passage  for  hit*  ships  in  the  direct  lino 
of  IJehring's  Strait,  or  ])erhaps,  in  the  first  instance,  to 
the  south  of  that  direction,  namely,  to  IJanks'  Land. 
In  such  case  two  contiuijencies  })resent  themselves  i 
first,  that  in  the  season  of  navii:;ation  of  18-17  he  may 
luive  made  so  much  j)rojiTess,  that  in  1S48  he  may  have 
preferred  the  endeavor  to  push  throujj!;h  to  liehrini^^'s 
IStrait,  or  to  some  western  part  of  the  continent,  to  an 
attempt  to  return  by  the  way  of  Barrow's  Strait;  the 
mission  of  the  Plover,  the  Enterprise,  and  the  Inves- 
tiixator  toijether  with  Dr.  Uae's  expedition,  supjdy,  I 
])resume,  (^t'or  I  am  but  partially  ac(|uainted  with  their 
instructions,)  the  most  juilicious  means  of  affording  re- 
lief in  this  direction.  There  is,  however,  a  second  con- 
tingency ;  and  it  is  the  one  which  the  impression  left 
on  my  mind  by  the  nature  and  general  asi)ect  of  the 
ice  in  the  twelve  months  which  we  ourselves  passed  at 
the  southwest  end  of  Melville  Island,  compels  me,  in 
spite  of  my  wishes,  to  regard  as  the  more  probable, 
viz.,  that  his  advance  from  Melville  Island  in  the  sea- 
son of  184:7  may  have  been  limited  to  a  distance  of 
fifty,  or  ]UM'haps  one  hundred  miles  at  farthest,  and 
that  in  184S  he  may  have  endeavored  to  retrace  his 
ste]>s.  but  only  M'ith  ])artial  success.  It  is,  I  ai>prehend, 
qui-to  ;i  C'  >n(.'ei\able  ca^^e,  that  under  these  circumstances, 


Ol'IMIONH    ANIt   KUU(;i:Hri<»NH. 


271 


iieir 


111 


inea[)ivl»Ie  of  cxtri('ulin<^  llio  nlil|is  IVdin  th(;  ice,  ttio 
criivv.s  niiiy  liavo  hciMi,  at  luii^tli,  (»l»li<;iMl  to  (|uit  iJitMri, 
and  atloiMpl  a  retreat,  not.  toward  tliecoiitiiieiit,  hecaiiBC 
too  distant,  hut  to  Mclvillo  J^slaIld,  uluire  (Uiitaiidy 
i'o(»(l,  and  prohahly  i'licl  (sealrt,)  nii^^lit  he  <jhlain(!(l,  and 
where  tliey  woJild  naturally  KUppose  tliat  veHHiils  dis- 
]>atched  IVoni  Kji<^h"id  Ibr  tlieir  relief  wouhl,  in  tlio 
Ji)\st  instjuKHi,  s('(!iv  thein.  It  is  <)nite  concujivahle  also, 
1  aj)])i'ehen(l,  tiiat  the  cinninistancc^H  nii^lit  he  Huch 
that  their  retn^at  may  liave  heen  made  without  their 
boatH,  and  ))roliahly  in  the  April  or  May  of  1841). 

"Where  the  I'^sijuimaux  have  lived,  there  I'^n^lislimeri 
may  live,  and  no  valid  ai'guuKMit  ai^ainst  the  attempt 
to  i'eli(!\e  can,  I  think,  he  founded  on  the  improhahility 
of  lindinj^  iMij^lishnuMi  alive  in  ISHO,  who  may  iiavo 
made  a  retreat  to  Melville  Island  in  the  spring  of  184JJ  ; 
nor  would  the  view  of  the  case  he  altered  in  any  ma- 
terial de^'ree,  if  w'e  suppose  their  retreat  to  have  be(;n 
made  in  isIs  or  ISlJ)  to  Banks'  Land,  whieli  may 
all'ord  facilities  of  food  and  fuel  e(jual  or  sujterior  to 
jMelville  Island,  and  a  further  retreat  in  the  following 
year  to  the  latter  island  as  the  point  at  which  they 
wonld  more  ])rol)ahly  look  out  for  succor. 

"  Without  dis[)arageiuent,  therefore,  to  the  attempts 
made  in  other  directions,  I  retain  my  original  opinion, 
which  seems  also  to  have  been  the  o[)inion  of  the 
IJoard  of  Admiralty,  by  which  Ross's  instructions  were 
drawn  uj),  that  the  most  promising  direction  for  re- 
search would  be  taken  by  a  vessel  which  should  follow 
them  to  the  southwest  point  of  Melville  Island,  be  pre- 
pared to  winter  there,  and,  if  necessary,  to  send  a 
])arty  across  the  ice  in  April  or  May  to  examine  Banks' 
Land,  a  distance  (there  and  back)  less  than  recently 
accomplished  by  lloss  in  his  land  journey. 

''  I  learn  from  Ross's  dis))atchcs,  that  almost  imme- 
diately after  he  got  out  of  Port  Leopold  (1849,)  he  was 
entangled  in  apparently  interminable  fields  and  floes 
of  ice,  with  which,  in  the  course  of  the  summer,  he 
was  drifted  down  through  Barrow's  Strait  and  Baffin's 
^ay  nearly  to  Davis'  '-strait.     It  is  reasonable  to  pre- 

12* 


M 


ft  ^m 

I 


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i.-  'i 


Iff'?? 

'¥'  '' 


11 


272 


PROGRESS    OF   AKOTlO    DISCO VKllY. 


sumo,  therefoiv,  tliat  tlio  localities  from  wlitmee  this 
ICO  drifted  tire  likely  to  bo  less  encumbered  tliuii  usual 
by  accumulated  ice  in  18r>0.  It  is,  of  course,  of  tlio 
highest  importance  t<.  reach  Barrow's  Strait  at  the  ear- 
liest [)o^;sible  period  <.)!"  the  season  ;  and,  conn»!cted  with 
this  ]>.>iut  I  learn  from  Ca]»tain  liird,  whom  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  here  a  lew  days  ago,  a  wry  remark- 
able fact,  that  the  ice  wliich  ]U'ev\uited  their  crossing 
liallin's  Bay  in  72°  or  73°  of  latitude  (as  we  did  in 
1811),  arriving  in  Barn  .'s  IStrait  a  month  earlier  than 
we  iiad  done  the  preceding  year,  when  we  went  round 
by  Melville  Bay,  and  nearly  a  month  earlier  than  Iloss 
did  l:i-t  year)-\.  is  young  ice,  which  had  formed  in  the 
remarkably  calm  summer  of  last  year,  and  which  the 
absence  of  wind  prevc  od  their  f  »rcing  a  passage 
through,  on  the  one  hand,  while  on  the  other,  the  ico 
was  not  heavy  enough  for  ice  anchors.  It  was,  he  said, 
not  mure  than  two  or  two  and  a  luilf  foot  thick,  and  ob- 
viously of  very  n  cent  for:uatioi\  Tl)ere  must,  there- 
fore, ha\  0  boon  an  earlier  period  of  the  season  when 
this  part  of  tiie  sea  iiiust  have  been  free  from  ico;  and 
this  comes  in  cor.firuiation  of  a  circumstance  of  which 
I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Petersen  (a  Danish  gentleman 
Bent  to  England  fc;ome  months  ago  by  the  Northern  So- 
ciety of  Antirpnirie.;  of  (Jopenhagen,  to  make  extracts 
from  books  and  manuscripts  in  the  British  ]\Iu6eum,) 
that  the  Northmen,  who  had  settlements  some  centu- 
ries ago  on  the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  were  in  the 
liabit  of  crossing  BafHn's  Bay  in  the  latitude  of  IJper- 
navic  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  for  the  purpose  of  fish- 
ing in  Barrow's  Strait,  from  whence  they  returned  in- 
.Vugust ;  and  that  in  the  early  months  they  generally 
found  the  passag  •  across  free  from  ice. 

"In  the  preceding  remarks,  I  lu;ve  left  one  contin- 
gency unconsidered  ;  it  is  that  which  would  have  fol- 
lowed in  pursuance  of  his  instructions,  if  Franklin  should 
have  found  the  aspect  of  the  ice  too  unfavorable  to  the 
west  and  south  of  Melville  Island  to  r'  ^^mpt  to  force  a 
passage  through  it,  and  siiould  have  retraced  his  steps 
m  hopes  of  finding  a  more  open  sea  to  the  northward, 


Ol'INIONS    AND   Sr:0GESTI0N'9. 


273 


i/itlior  in  AV^cllInn-foii  Strait  or  elsewi).  ro.  It  is^  (jiiito 
coiu'oiviilile  tliat  liciv  also  the  expedition  iriay  K.ive  cn- 
C'Mintered,  at  no  vim-v  [<:,\\'i\.t  distaiici'.  insii|)cial»le  dilli- 
culries  to  their  udvaiu-e,  and  may  lia\  "  tailed  in  aceo:n- 
pll.dunu;  a  return  with  their  f-hip^.  in  t\\U  case,  tho 
retreat  of  tlie  crows,  snpposiiio;  it  to  have  hcoi  inade 
across  land  or  ice,  would  ino.-.t  prohahly  be  di;  -ttHl  to 
some  y)art  of  the;  coast  on  th(^  route  to  iMelvilK  '  ilid, 
on  whieli  route  they  would,  M'ithout  doubt,  ex;  that 
succor  would  bo  attemitted." 

Mr.  Kobert  A.  Ooodsir,  a  bi-othor  of  Uw  U.  D.  On  .d- 
fiir,  tho  assistant-suru'eon  of  ISir  John  Fraiddin's  ship, 
till!  Erebus,  left  Stronmess,  as  sur^von  of  the  Advice, 
whaler,  ('apt.  Penny,  on  the  I  7th  of  March,  184:!>,  in 
tho  ho})es  of  <>;ainin<>;  some  tidinii;s  of  his  brother;  Ijut 
returned  nnsuc(;essful  after  an  ei!i,ht  months'  voyp.^v. 
lie  has,  however,  [)iiblished  a  very  interest! n*:^  little 
narrative  of  tht^  icy  reu'ions  and  of  his  ai'ctic  voyaL!,'o. 

In  a  letter  to  Lady  Fraiddiu,  dated  Edinburi»;h,  IStli 
of  Jamiary,  1850,  ho  says  : — "■  1  trust  yon  are  not  allow- 
inof  yourself  to  become  over-anxious.  1  know  that, 
although  thei'o  is  much  cause  to  I)0  so,  there  is  still  not 
tho  slightest  reason  that  we  should  despair.  It  may  bo 
presumptuous  in  mo  to  say  so,  but  I  luive  never  for  a 
moment  doubted  as  totlieir  ultimate  safe  return,  havina; 
always  had  a  sort  of  presentiment  that  Iw'ould  meet  my 
brother  and  his  companions  somewhere  in  the  regions 
in  which  their  adventures  are  taking  place.  This  hope 
I  have  not  yet  given  np,  and  I  trust  that  by  next  sum- 
mer it  may  be  fultilled,  when  an  end  will  be  put  to  the 
suspense  which  has  lasted  so  long,  and  which  must  have 
tried  you  so  inucli." 

The  arctic  regions,  far  from  being  so  destitute  of  ani- 
mal life  as  might  be  supposed  from  the  bleak  and  inhos- 
pitable character  of  tho  climate,  are  ]n'overbial  for  the 
"ision  of  variou 


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kingdom,  which  are  to  be  met  wdth  in  different  locali- 
ties during  a  great  ])art  of  the  year. 

The  air  is  often  dai'kened  by  innumerable  flocks  of 
arctic  and  blue  gulls,  {Leati'ls  Paradtlcxi:^,  and  Larus 


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274 


PEOOEES8   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


glauGus,)  the  ivory  gull  or  snow-bird,  {Zarus  ehurneus,) 
the  kittiWake,  the  fulmar  or  petrel,  snow  geese,  terns, 
coons,  dovekies,  &c.  The  cetaceous  animals  comprise 
the  great  Greenland  whale,  {Balcena  mysticetus,)  the 
sea  unicorn  or  narwhal,  {Monodon  monoceros^  the 
white  whale  or  beluga,  {DelpMnus  leucos^  the  morse 
or  walrus,  {Triohecus  7'osmarus^  and  the  seal.  There 
are  also  plenty  of  porpoises  occasionally  to  be  met  with, 
and  although  these  animals  may  not  be  the  best  of  food, 
yet  they  can  be  eaten.  Of  the  land  animals  I  may  in- 
stance the  polar  bear,  the  musk-ox,  the  reindeer,  the 
arctic  fox  and  wolves. 

Parry  obtained  nearly  40001b8.  weight  of  animal  food 
during  his  winter  residence  at  Melville  Island ;  Ross 
nearly  the  same  quantity  from  birds  alone  when  winter- 
ing at  Port  Leopold. 

In  1719,  the  crews  of  two  Hudson's  Bay  vessels,  the 
Albany  and  Discovery,  a  ship  and  sloop,  under  the 
command  of  Mr.  Barlow  and  Mr.  Knight,  were  cast  on 
shore  on  Marble  Island,  and  it  was  subsequently  ascer- 
tained that  some  of  the  party  supported  life  for  nearly 
three  years.  Mr.  Hearne  learned  the  particulars  from 
some  of  the  Esquimaux  in  1729.  The  ship  it  appeared 
went  on  shore  in  the  fall  of  1719 ;  the  party  being  then 
in  number  about  fifty,  began  to  build  their  house  for 
the  winter.  As  soon  as  the  ice  permitted  in  the  follow- 
ing summer  the  Esquimaux  paid  them  another  visit,  and 
found  the  number  of  sailors  much  reduced,  and  very 
unhealthy. 

Sickness  and  famine  occasioned  such  havoc  among 
them  that  by  the  setting  in  of  the  second  vinter,  their 
number  was  reduced  to  twenty.  Some  of  the  Esqui- 
maux took  up  their  abode  at  this  period  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  harbor,  and  supplied  them  with  what  provis- 
ions they  could  spare  in  the  shape  of  blubber,  seal's 
flesh,  and  train  oil. 

The  Esquimaux  left  for  their  wanderings  in  the 
Bpring,  and  on  revisiting  the  island  in  the  summer  of 
1721,  only  five  of  the  crews  were  found  alive,  and  tliese 
were  so  ravenous  for  food,  that  they  devoured  the  blub- 


t-' 


ABUNDANCE    OF   ANIMAL   FOOD   MET   WITH. 


275 


ber  and  seal's  flesh  raw,  as  they  purchased  it  of  tlie 
natives,  which  proved  so  injurious  in  their  weak  state, 
that  three  of  them  died  in  a  few  days.  The  two  sur- 
vivors, though  very  weak,  managed  to  bury  their  com- 
rades, and  protracted  their  existence  for  some  days 
longer. 

"They  frequently,"  in  the  words  of  the  narrative, 
•'went  to  the  top  of  an  adjacent  rock,  and  earnestly 
looked  to  the  south  and  east,  as  if  in  expectation  of  some 
vessels  coming  to  their  relief.  After  continuing  there 
a  considerable  time,  and  nothing  appearing  in  sight, 
they  sat  down  close  together,  and  wept  bitterly.  At 
length  one  of  the  two  died,  and  the  other's  strength  was 
so  far  exhausted,  that  he  fell  down  and  died,  also  in 
attempting  to  dig  a  grave  for  his  companion.  The  skulls 
and  other  large  bones  of  these  two  men  are  ncv  lying 
above  ground  close  to  the  house." 

Sir  John  Richardson,  speaking  of  the  amount  of  food 
to  be  obtained  in  the  polar  region,  says,  "Deer  migrate 
over  the  ice  in  the  spring  from  the  main  shore  to  Vic- 
toria and  "Wollaston  Lands  in  large  herds,  and  return  in 
the  autumn.  These  lands  are  also  the  breeding  places 
of  vast  flocks  of  snow  geese ;  so  that  with  ordinary 
skill  in  hunting,  a  large  supply  of  food  might  be  pro- 
cured on  tlieir  shores,  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  and 
August.  Seals  are  also  numerous  in  those  seas,  and 
are  easily  shot,  their  curiosity  rendering  them  a  ready 
prey  to  a  boat  party."  In  these  ways  and  by  fishing, 
the  stock  of  provisions  might  be  greatly  augmented  — 
and  we  have  the  recent  example  of  Mr.  Eae,  who 

Sissed  a  severe  winter  on  the  very  barren  shores  of 
epulse  Bay,  with  no  other  fuel  than  the  withered  tufts 
of  a  herbaceous  andromada,  and  maintained  a  numer- 
ous party  on  the  spoils  of  the  chase  alone  for  a  whole 
year.  Such  instances,  forbid  us  to  lose  hope.  Should 
Sir  John  Franklin's  provisions  "become  so  far  inade- 
quate to  a  winter's  consumption,  it  is  not  likely  that  he 
would  remain  longer  by  his  ships,  but  rather  that  in 
one  body,  or  in  several,  the  oiflcers  and  crews,  with 
boats  cut  down  so  as  to  be  light  enough  to  drag  over 


m 


m 


276 


riiOGKESS    OF   AKCTIC   DISCOSTERY. 


the  ice,  or  built  expressly  for  that  purpose,  would  en- 
deavor to  make  tlieii*  way  eastward  to  Lancaster  Sound, 
or  southward  to  the  main-land,  according  to  the  longi- 
tude in  which  the  shij^s  were  arrested. 

"VVe  ought  not  to  judge  of  the  supplies  of  food  that 
can  be  procured  in  the  arctic  i-egions  by  diligent  hunt- 
ing, from  the  quantities  that  have  been  actually  ob- 
tained on  the  several  expeditions  that  have  returned, 
and  consequently  of  the  means  of  preserving  life  there. 
When  there  was  abundance  in  the  ships,  tlie  address 
and  energy  of  the  hunting  parties  was  not  likely  to  bo 
called  fortli,  as  they  would  inevitably  be  when  the  exis- 
tence of  the  crews  depended  solely  on  their  personal 
efforts,  and  formed  their  chief  or  only  object  in  their 
march  toward  quarters  where  relief  miglit  be  looked 
for.  This  remark  has  reference  to  tlie  supposition  that 
on  the  failure  of  the  stock  of  provisions  in  the  ships, 
the  crews  would,  in  sej^arate  parties  under  their  officers, 
seek  for  succor  in  several  directions. 

With  an  empty  stomach,  the  power  of  resisting  exter- 
nal cold  is  greatly  impaired  ;  but  when  the  process  of 
digesting  is  going  on  vigorously,  even  with  compara- 
tively scanty  clothing,  the  heat  of  tlie  body  is  preserved. 
There  is  in  the  winter  time,  in  high  latitudes,  a  craving 
for  iat  or  oleaginous  food,  and  for  such  occasions  the 
flesh  of  seals,  walruses,  or  bears,  forms  a  useful  article 
of  diet.  Captain  Cook  says  tliat  the  walrus  is  a  sweet 
and  wholesome  article  of  food.  Whales  and  seals  would 
also  furnish  light  and  fuel.  The  necessity  for  increased 
food  in  very  cold  weather,  is  not  so  great  when  the 
people  do  not  work. 

Mr.  Gilpin,  in  his  na^  -ative  in  the  Nautical  Maga- 
zine for  March,  1850, '        s  thus  :  — 

"About  the  20th  of  dune  a  small  water  bird,  called 
the  doveky,  had  become  so  numerous,  and  so  many 
were  daily  shot  by  those  who  troubled  themselves  to  go 
after  them,  that  shooting  parties  from  each  ship,  con- 
sisting of  an  officer  and  marine,  were  established  at 
Whaler  Point,  where  they  remained  the  whole  week, 
returning  on  board  on  Saturday  night.     In  a  week  or 


•* 


•f«^ 


1 

I 


a  -^ 


o 
w 

53 


:f 


abundanc;e  of  animal  food  met  with. 


277 


80  after  this  the  coon,  a  much  heavier  bird,  became 
more  plentiful  than  the  little  doveky,  and  from  this 
time  to  the  middle  of  Aiiffust,  so  successful  and  untir- 
ing were  our  sportsmen,  that  the  crew  received  each  a 
bird  per  man  a  day. 

"  The  account  kept  on  board  the  Investigator  showed 
the  number  of  birds  killed  to  have  amounted  to  about 
4000,  and  yielding  near  25001b8.  of  meat.  But  more 
than  this  was  obtained,  as  many  were  shot  by  individ- 
uals for  amusement,  and  not  always  noted." 

Mr.  Goodsir,  surgeon,  when  in  the  Advice  whaler,  on 
her  voyage  up  Lancaster  Sound,  in  the  summer  of  1849, 
speaking  of  landing  on  one  of  the  Wollaston  Islands,  on 
the  west  side  of  Isavy  Board  Inlet,  says  he  disturbed 
about  half  a  dozen  pairs  of  the  eider-duck  {Somateria 
moUissima.)  Their  eggs  he  found  to  be  within  a  few 
hours  of  maturity.  There  were,  besides,  numerous  nests, 
the  occupants  of  which  had  probably  winged  their  way 
southward.  Two  brent  geese,  {Anser  hernicla^  and  a 
single  pair  of  arctic  terns,  {Sterna  arctica,)  were  most 
vociferous  and  courageous  in  defense  of  their  downy 
oifspring  wherever  he  approached.  These  were  the 
only  birds  he  saw,  with  the  exception  of  a  solitary  ra- 
ven, {Corvus  corax,)  not  very  high  overhead,  whose 
sharp  and  yet  musically  bell-like  croak  came  startling 
upon  the  ear.  ** 

Mr.  Snow,  in  his  account  of  the  voyage  of  the  Prince 
Albert,  p.  162,  says,  (speaking  of  Melville  Bay,  at  the 
northern  head  of  Baffin's  Bay,)  "  Innumerable  quanti- 
ties of  birds,  especially  the  little  auk,  {Alca  alle,)  and 
the  doveky,  {Colymhus  grylle^  were  now  seen,  (Au- 
gust 6th,)  in  every  direction.  They  were  to  be  ob- 
served in  thousands,  on  the  wing  and  in  the  water, 
and  often  on  pieces  of  ice,  where  they  were  clustered 
together  so  thick  that  scores  might  have  been  shot  at  a 
time  by  two  or  three  fowling  pieces." 

In  passing  up  Lancaster  Sound  a  fortnight  later  sev- 
eral shoal  of  eider-ducks  and  large  quantities  of  other 
birds  were  also  seen. 


278 


PliOGKESS   OF   AKCTIC   DISCOVKRY. 


A  BALLAD  OF  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN. 

"  The  li-e  was  h«'re,  the  Ico  wns  there. 
The  ieu  was  uU  around."  —  Colkiiidor. 

Whithkr  Hail  you,  Sir  John  Franklin  ? 

Cricnl  a  Avhalcr  in  Haffin's  Hay  ; 
To  know  if  between  the  land  and  the  Polo, 

I  may  find  a  broad  sea-way. 

I  charge  you  back.  Sir  John  Franklin, 

As  you  would  live  and  thrive, 
For  between  the  land  and  the  frozen  Pole 

No  man  may  siiil  alive. 

But  liffhtly  laupfhed  the  stout  Sir  John, 

And  spoke  tuito  his  men  :  — 
Half  Enjflatid  is  wroricr,  if  he  is  right ; 

Bear  off  to  westward  then. 

0,  whither  sail  you,  brave  Englishman  ? 

Cried  tlie  little  Esquimaux. 
Between  your  land  and  the  polar  star 

My  gottdly  vessels  go. 

Come  down,  if  you  would  journey  there. 

The  little  Indian  said  ; 
And  change  your  doth  for  fur  clothing, 

Your  vessel  for  a  sled.  >    • 

But  lightly  laughed  the  stout  Sir  John, 
And  the  crew  laughed  Avith  him  too  ; 

A  sailor  to  change  from  ship  to  sled, 
I  ween,  were  something  new  I  \ 

All  through  the  long,  long  ])olar  day. 

The  vessels  westward  sped  ; 
And  wherever  the  sail  of  Sir  John  was  blown. 

The  ice  gave  way  and  Hed. 

•  - 
Gave  way  with  many  a  hollow  groan. 

And  with  many  a  surly  roar ; 
But  it  murnuired  and  threatened  on  every  side. 

And  closed  where  he  sailed  before. 

Ho  !  see  ye  not,  my  meiTv  men, 

Tlio  broad  and  open  sea  ? 
Bethink  ye  wlnt  the  whaler  said, 
Bethink  ye  of  tlic  little  Indian's  sled  I 

The  crew  laughed  out  in  glee. 

Sir  John,  Sir  John,  'tis  bitter  cold. 

The  scud  drives  on  the  breeze. 
The  ice  comes  looming  from  the  north. 

The  veiy  sunbeams  freeze.  ,:.  , 

Bright  summer  goes,  dark  winter  comes  — 

We  cannot  rule  the  year  ; 
But  long  ere  summer's  suti  goes  down, 

On  yonder  sea  we  '11  steer. 


A   BALLAD   OF   SI14   JOHN   FKANKLIN. 

The  dripping  icebergs  dipped  and  rose. 

And  tilonnaered  down  tlio  giile  ; 
The  shins  were  staid,  the  yards  were  manned, 

And  furled  the  useless  sail. 

The  summer 's  gone,  the  winter's  coino. 

We  aail  not  on  yonder  sea ; 
Why  sail  we  not,  Sir  John  Franklin  ? 

—  A  silent  man  was  he. 

The  winter  goes,  the  summer  comes, 

We  cannot  rule  the  year ; 
I  ween,  we  cannot  rule  the  ways, 

Sir  John,  wherein  we  'd  steer. 

The  cruel  ice  came  flojiting  on, 

And  closed  beneath  the  lee, 
Till  the  thickening  waters  dashed  no  more, 
'T  was  ice  around,  behind,  before  — 

My  God  1  there  is  no  sea  I 

What  think  you  of  the  whaler  now  ! 

What  of  the  Esquimaux  ? 
A  sled  were  better  than  a  ship. 

To  cruise  through  ice  and  snow. 

Down  sank  the  baleful  crimson  sun  ; 

The  northern-light  came  out, 
And  glai'cd  upon  tlie  ice-bound  ships. 

And  s^^ook  its  speais  about. 

The  snow  came  down,  storm  breeding  stonn, 

And  on  the  decks  w.is  laid  ; 
Till  the  weary  sailor,  sick  at  heart. 

Sank  down  beside  his  spade. 

Sir  John,  the  night  is  black  and  long, 
.  The  hissing  wind  is  bleak  ; 
The  hard,  green  ice  is  strong  as  death  :  — 
I  prithee,  captain,  speak. 

The  night  is  neither  bright  nor  short, 

The  singing  breeze  is  cold. 
The  ice  is  not  so  strong  as  hope, 

The  heart  of  man  is  bold  I 

What  hope  can  scale  this  icy  wall, 

High  o'er  the  main  flag-staff? 
Above  the  ridges  the  wolf  and  bear 
Look  down  with  a  patient,  settled  stare  — • 

Look  down  on  us  and  laugh. 

The  summer  went,  the  winter  came- 

We  could  not  rule  the  year  ; 
But  summer  will  melt  the  ice  again. 
And  open  a  path  to  the  sunny  main. 

Whereon  our  ships  shall  steer. 


279 


-^        ■  ■     • — — — ■ — " — — ' 

280                    PROGRESS   OF   ARCHO   DISCOVERY. 

» 

■ 

The  winter  went,  the  summer  went, 

• 

The  winter  came  nrountl ; 

. 

But  the  hard,  jjrccn  ice  was  stronjf  m  death, 

>  . 

. 

,  ,     ■     And  the  voice  of  hoj)o  sank  to  a  breath, 

■«• 

'               Yet  caught  at  every  gound. 

Hark  1  heard  you  not  the  sound  of  guns  T 

, 

And  there,  and  there  again  ? 

*T  is  some  uneasy  iceberg's  roar, 

As  he  turns  in  the  frozen  main. 

1 

Hurra !  hurra  t  the  Enquimaux 

Across  the  ice-fields  steal : 

^ 

. 

God  give  them  grace  for  their  charity  I 

ff 

r 

Ye  pray  for  the  silly  seal 

• 

Sir  John,  where  are  the  English  fiolda^ 

And  where  the  English  trees, 

And  where  are  the  littlo  English  flowers. 

i 
1 

That  open  in  the  breeze  ? 

Be  still,  be  still,  my  brave  sailors  I 

" 

You  shall  see  the  fiolds  again, 

And  smell  the  scent  of  the  opening  flowerei 

The  grass,  and  the  waving  grain. 

Oh !  when  shall  I  see  my  orphan  child  ? 

My  Mary  waits  for  me  ; 

1 

Oh  I  when  shall  I  see  my  old  mother. 
And  pray  at  her  trembling  knee  ? 

, 

: 

Be  still,  be  still,  my  brave  sailora  I 

i 

Think  not  such  thoughts  again  I 

" 

But  a  tear  froze  slowly  on  his  cheek  — 

He  thought  of  Lady  Jane. 

Ah  I  bitter,  bitter  grows  the  cold, 
The  ice  grows  more  and  more  ; 

i 

! 

More  settled  stare  the  wolf  and  bear, 

More  patient  than  before. 
*i   ,                                                                 ■  ■              ' 
Oh  1  think  you,  good  Sir  John  Franklin, 

We  '11  ever  see  the  land  ? 
'T  was  cruel  to  send  us  here  to  stai-ve, 

Without  a  helping  hand. 

*T  was  cruel,  Sir  John,  to  send  us  here, 

So  far  from  help  or  home ; 
To  starve  and  freeze  on  this  lonely  sea  ; 
I  ween,  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty 

Had  rather  send  than  come. 

Oh !  whether  we  starve  to  death  alone. 

Or  sail  to  our  own  country, 
We  have  done  what  man  has  never  done  — 
The  open  ocean  danced  in  the  sun  — 

We  {passed  the  Northern  Sea  I 

TIIE  8EAKC1IIN0   EXPEDITIONS. 


281 


Toe  Government  and  Private  SEARcmjro  Expeditions 
AFTER  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  following  is  a  complete  list  of  the  several  relief 
and  exploring  vessels  which  have  been  sent  out  during 
the  last  two  years  by  the  British  government,  by  private 
individuals,  and  by  the  Amoricau  nation : — 


Sljipfl.  Mon. 

1.  II.  M.  S.  Enterprise    -    -  68 

2.  H.  M.  S.  Investigator  -    -  G5 

3.  H.  M.  S.  Plover     -    -    -  62 

4.  H.  M.  S.  Resolute  -  -  -  68 
6.  II.  M.  S.  Assistance  -  -  60 
6.  II.  M.  S.  Intrepid,  (screw 

steamer,) 

Y.  H.  M.  S.  Intrepid,  (screw 
steamer,) 38 

8.  The  Lady  Franklin    -    -   25 

9.  The  Sophia,  (a  tender  to 

the  above,) 

10.  United   States  brig  Ad- 
vance   

11.  United  States  vessel  Res- 

cue   18 


Commanders. 

Capt.  Collinson. 
Com.  M'Clure. 
Com.  Moore. 
Capt.  II.  Austin. 
Capt.  E.  Ommaney. 


30    Lieut.  S.  Osboni. 


Lieut.  Cator. 
Mr.  Penny. 


22    Mr.  Stewart. 

20    Lieut.  De  Haven. 


Mr.  S.  P.  Griffin. 
Capt.  Sir  John  Ross. 


12.  Felix  yacht 

13.  Mary,  (tender  to  the  Felix.) 

14.  The  North  Stai*,  Master  and  Commander  Saunders. 

15.  The  Prince  Albert      -    -   18     Com.  Forsyth. 

Of  these  vessels  the  Enterprise,  Investigator,  and 
Plover,  are  at  present  engagecf  on  the  western  branch 
of  search  through  Behring's  Straits.  The  rest  have  all 
proceeded  through  Baffin's  Bay  to  Lancaster  Sound,  and 
the  channels  branching  out  from  thence,  except  the  last 
two,  which  have  returned  home. 

Voyage   op  the  "Enterprise"  and   "Investigator" 
under  Captaiji  Sir  James  C.  Ross,  1848-49. 

In  the  spring  of  1848,  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Ross 
was  placed  in  command  of  a  well  found  and  fitted  ex- 
pedition, with  means  and  advantages  of  unusual  extent, 


282 


PROOttE89    OP  ARCTTO  DI8C0VKRT. 


and  with  an  object  that  could  not  fail  to  stimulate  in 
the  hijifhest  degree  the  energies  and  perseverance  of  all 
embarked  in  it.  "With  the  ever  present  feeling,  too,  that 
the  lives  of  their  countrymen  and  brother  sailors  de- 
pended, (under  God's  good  providence,)  upon  tlieir 
unllinching  exertions.  Captain  lloss  and  his  followers 
went  fortii  in  the  coniident  hope  that  their  eftbrts  might 
be  crowned  with  success. 

The  season  was  considerably  advanced  before  the 
whole  of  the  arrangements  were  completed,  for  it  was 
not  until  the  12th  oi  June,  1848,  that  Captain  Ross  letlb 
England,  having  under  his  charge  the  Enterprise  and 
Investigator,  with  the  following  officers  and  crews : — 

Enterprise^  540  tons. 

Captain  —  Sir  James  C.  Ross. 

Lieutenants  —  R.  J.  L.  M'Clr^e,  F.  L.  McClintock, 

and  W.  TI.  J.  Browme.  , 

Master  —  W.  S.  Couldery,  (acting^ 
Surgeon  —  "VV.  Robertson,  {h)  M.  D. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  II.  Matthias. 
Clerk  — Edward  Whitil lead.  , 

Total  complement,  68. 

Investigator,  480  tons. 
Captain  — E.  J.  Bird.     • 
Lieutenants— M.  G.  II.  W.  Ross,  Frederick  Robinson 

and  J.  J.  Barnard.  ^ 

Master  —  W.  Tatliam. 
Surgeon  —  Robert  Anderson. 
Mates  —  L.  J.  Moore  and  S.  G.  Cresswell. 
Second  Master  —  John  H.  Allard. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  E.Adams. 
Clerk  in  Charge  —  James  D.  Gilpin. 
Total  complement,  67. 

The  ships  reached  the  Danish  settlement  of  IJpper- 
navick,  situated  on  one  of  the  group  of  Woman's  Islands 
on  the  western  shore  of  Ratlin's  Bay,  on  the  6th  of 
July.     Running  through  this  intricate  archipelago,  they 


VOYAOK  OF  ENTEllPKISK   AND  INVK8TI1IATOR.       283 


were  made  fast,  en  the  2utli,  to  an  iceberg  aground  off 
Capo  Sliackleton.  Tlio  bliips  wcro  tovvud,  during  tho 
nt'Xt  tew  days,  tlirougli  loose  streams  of  ice,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  20th  were  off  thetlirce  ishmds  of  JJatHn 
in  latitude  74°  N.  Calms  and  light  winds  so  greatly 
impeded  any  movement  in  the  pack,  that  day  after 
day  passed  away  until  the  season  had  so  far  advanced 
as  to  preclude  every  hope  of  accomplishing  much,  if 
any  thing,  l)eforo  the  setting  in  of  winter. 

No  exertions, however,  were  spared  to  take  advantage 
of  every  opportunity  of  pushing  forward,  until,  on  the 
20th  of  August,  during  a  heavy  breeze  from  the  north- 
east, tiie  ships  under  all  sail  bored  through  a  pack  of  ice 
of  but  moderate  thickness,  but  having  among  it  heavy 
masses,  through  which  it  was  necessary  to  drive  them  at 
all  hazards.  The  shocks  the  ships  sustained  during  this 
severe  trial  were  great,  but  fortunately  W'ithout  serious 
damage  to  them.  Getting  into  clear  water  in  lat.  75  h  N., 
and  long.  68°  "W.,  on  the  23d  the  ships  stood  in  to 
Pond's  Bay,  but  no  traces  of  Esquimaux  or  other  human 
beings  were  discovered,  although  signals  v/ero  made  and 
guns  fired  at  repeated  intervals.  The  ships  were  kept 
close  to  the  land,  and  a  rigid  examination  made  of  the 
coast  to  the  northward,  so  that  neither  people  nor  boats 
could  have  passed  without  being  seen.  On  the  2Gth 
the  ships  arrived  oft'  Possession  13ay,  and  a  party  was 
sent  on  shore  to  search  for  any  traces  of  the  expedition 
having  touched  at  this  general  point  of  rendezvous. 
Nothing  was  found  but  the  paper  left  there  recording 
the  visit  of  Sir  Edward  Parry,  on  the  very  day  (August 
30th)  in  1819.  From  this  point  the  examination  of  the 
coast  was  continued  with  equal  care.  On  the  1st  of 
September  they  arrived  off  Cape  York,  and  a  boat's 
crew  was  sent  on  shore,  to  fix  a  conspicuous  mark,  and 
leave  information  for  the  guidance  of  any  future  party 
that  might  touch  here. 

I  shall  now  take  up  the  narrative  in  Sir  James  Ross's 
own  words  — "  We  stood  over  toward  northeast  cape 
until  we  came  in  with  the  edge  of  a  pack,  too  dense  for 
Us  to  penetrate,  lying  between  us  and  Leopold  Island, 


'"  ■nil 

m 


m 


284 


PKOGKIiSS   OF   AUCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


about  fourteen  miles  broad  ;  we  therefore  coasted  the 
north  shore  of  Burrow's  Strait,  to  seek  a  harbor  further 
to  the  westward,  and  to  examine  the  numerous  inlets  of 
that  shore.  Maxwell  Bay,  and  several  smaller  indenta- 
tions, were  thoroughly  explored,  and,  although  we  got 
near  the  entrance  of  Wellington  Channel,  the  firm  bar- 
rier of  ice  whicli  stretched  across  it,  and  which  had  not 
brc»ken  away  this  season,  convinced  us  all  was  im[)rac- 
ticable  in  that  direction.  We  now  stood  to  tiie  soutli- 
west  to  seek  for  a  harbor  near  Cape  Kennell,  but  found 
a  heavy  body  of  ice  extending  from  the  west  of  Corn- 
wallis  Island  in  a  compact  mass  to  Leopold  Island. 
Coasting  along  the  pack  during  stormy  ajid  foggy 
weather,  we  had  difficulty  in  keeping  the  ships  free 
during  the  nights,  for  I  believe  so  great  a  quantity  of  ice 
was  never  before  seen  in  Barrow's  Strait  at  this  period 
of  the  season." 

Fortunately,  after  some  days  of  anxious  and  arduous 
work,  the  ships  were  got  through  the  pack,  and  secured 
in  the  harbor  of  Port  Leopold  on  the  11th  of  September. 
No  situation  could  be  better  adapted  for  the  purpose 
than  this  locality  ;  being  at  the  junction  of  tlie  four 
great  channels  of  Barrow's  Strait,  Lancaster  Sound, 
Prince  Regent  Inlet,  and  Wellington  Channel,  it  was 
hardly  possible  for  any  party,  after  abandoning  their 
ships,  to  pass  along  the  shores  of  any  of  those  inlets, 
without  finding  indications  of  the  proximity  of  these 
ships. 

The  night  following  the  very  day  of  the  ships'  getting 
in,  the  main  pack  closed  with  the  land,  and  completely 
sealed  the  mouth  of  the  harbor.  The  long  winter  was 
passed  in  exploring  and  surveying  journeys  along  the 
coasts  in  all  directions.  During  the  winter  as  many  as 
fifty  white  foxes  were  taken  alive,  in  traps  made  of 
empty  casks  set  for  the  purpose.  As  it  was  well  known 
how  large  a  tract  of  country  these  animals  traverse  in 
search  of  food,  copper  collars,  (upon  which  a  notice  of 
the  position  of  the  ships  and  depots  of  provisions  was 
engraved,)  were  clinched  round  their  necks,  and  they 
were  then  set  free,  in  the  hope  that  some  of  these  four- 


VOYAGE   OF   ENTERPRISE   AND   mVESriQATOR. 


285 


i^  .11:!,  1 


footed  messengers  might  be  the  means  of  conveying  the 
intelligence  to  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  as  the  crews  of 
those  vessels  woidd  naturally  be  eager  for  their  capture. 
The  months  of  April  and  May  were  occupied  by  Capt. 
Ross,  Lieut.  McOlintock,  and  a  party  of  twelve  men,  in 
examining  and  thoroughly  exploring  all  the  inlets  and 
smaller  indentations  of  the  northern  and  western  coasts 
of  Eoothia  peninsula,  in  which  any  shijis  might  have 
found  shelter. 

From  the  high  land  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cape 
Bunny,  Capt.  Itoss  obtained  a  very  extensive  view,  and 
observed  that  the  whole  space  between  it  and  Cape 
Walker  to  the  west,  and  Wellington  Strait  to  the  north, 
was  occupied  by  very  heavy  hummocky  ice. 

"  The  examination  of  the  coast,"  Sir  James  Ross  tells 
us,  "  was  pursued  until  the  5th  of  June,  when,  having 
consumed  more  than  half  our  provisions,  and  the  strength 
of  the  party  being  much  reduced,  I  was  reluctantly 
compelled  to  abandon  further  operations,  as  it  was, 
moreover,  necessary  to  give  the  men  a  day  of  rest. 
But  that  the  time  might  not  wholly  be  lost,  I  proceeded 
with  two  hands  to  the  extreme  south  poin'j  in  sight  from 
our  encampment,  distant  about  eight  or  nine  miles." 

This  extreme  point  is  situate  in  lat.  72°  38'  !N".,  and 
long.  95°  40'  W.,  and  is  the  west  face  of  a  small  high 
peninsula.  The  state  of  the  atmosphere  bein^  at  tno 
ti]ne  peculiarly  favorable  for  distinctness  of  vision,  land 
of  any  great  elevation  might  have  been  seen  at  the  dis- 
tance of  100  miles.  The  highest  cape  of  the  coast  was 
not  mor6  tlmn  fifty  miles  distant,  bearing  nearly  duo 
south.  A  very  narrow  istlimus  was  found  to  separate 
Prince  Regent  Inlet  from  the  western  sea  at  Cresswell 
and  Brentford  Bays.  The  icoJn  this  quarter  proved  to 
be  eight  feet  tliick.  A  large  cairn  of  stones  was  erected, 
and  on  the  Cth  of  June,  the  return  journey  was  com- 
menced. After  encountering  a  variety  of  difficulties 
they  reached  tlie  ships  on  the  23d,  so  completely  worn 
out  by  fatigue,  that  every  man  was,  from  some  cause  or 
otlier,  in  the  doctor's  hands  for  two  or  \\u\'(\  weeks. 
Duriiio;  their  absence,  Mr.  ]\ratthias,  the  p.^si-t.wil-suriZ'tHni 


mi 
I 


--(1 


i 


28G 


rKO(JI{KS8    OK    AUtniO    DIWCOVKKY. 


» 


of  the  Enterprise,  lijul  died  of  consumption.  Scvenil  of 
the  crews  of  hotli  siiins  wi're  in  !i  dedin'n^  state,  and 
tho  iijeueral  report  of  lieulth  wus  by  no  ineuns  ciieering. 

While  Ca}>tjiin  Uoss  was  away,  Coniniamler  IJinl 
liad  dispatched  otiier  surveying  parties  in  different  di- 
rections. One,  under  t lie  c>>inniand  of  IjitMittMiant  llar- 
nard,  to  the  northern  siiore  of  Harrow's  Strait,  crossin*/ 
the  ico  to  Cai)o  Hind;  a  second,  commanded  by  Lieu- 
tenant l^rowne,  to  the  eastern  shore  of  liej^ent  Inlet; 
and  a  third  ])arty  of  six  men,  conducted  by  Lieutenant 
Kobinson,  along  the  western  shore  of  the  Inlet.  The 
latter  otHcer  extended  his  examination  of  the  coast  as 
far  as  Cresswell  Bay,  several  miles  to  the  southward 
of  Fury  Beach.  He  found  the  house  still  standinii;  in 
■n'hicii  Sir  John  lu)ss  ])assed  the  winters  of  lS.'{2-;};», 
together  with  a  quantity  of  the  stores  and  provisions 
of  the  Fury,  lost  there  in  1S27.  On  opening  some  of 
the  paclaiges  containing  Hour,  sugar  and  ])eas,  they 
were  all  found  to  be  in  excellent  i)rescrvation,  and  the 
preserved  soup  as  good  as  when  manufactured.  The 
labors  of  these  searching  i)arties  were,  however,  of 
comparatively  short  duration,  as  they  all  sufVered  from 
snow-blindness,  sprained  aidcles,  ami  debility. 

As  it  was  now  but  too  evident,  from  no  traces  of  the 
absent  expedition  having  been  met  w^ith  by  any  of 
these  parties,  that  the  shii)s  could  uot  have  been  de- 
tained anywhere  in  this  ])art  of  the  arctic  regions, 
Caj)tain  Tioss  considered  it  most  desirable  to  ])ush  for- 
ward to  the  westward  as  soon  as  his  ships  should  be  lib- 
erated. His  chief  hopes  now  centered  in  the  efforts  of 
Sir  John  Kichardson's  party  ;  but  he  felt  ])ersuaded 
that  S;.'  John  Franklin's  ships  must  have  ])enetrated 
so  far  beyond  Melville  Island  as  to  induce  him  to  prefer 
making  for  the  continent  of  America  rather  than  seek- 
ing assistance  from  the  whale  shij)S  in  BafHn's  l);vy. 
The  crew^s,  weakened  by  incessant  exertion,  were  now 
in  a  very  unfit  state  to  undertake  the  heavy  labor 
which  they  had  yet  to  aocom])lish,  but  all  hands  that 
were  able  were  set  to  work  with  s:iws  to  cut  a  cliajniel 
toMMrd   tlie  point  of  the  iiar))oi',  a  distance  of  rather 


VOYAGK   OF    KNTKIilMilHK    AND    INVKBTKJAToU. 


287 


Tl. 


more  than  two  in  lies,  und  on  tlio  2Sth  of  An|L!:n8t  tjio 
sliips  ^ot  clojir.  lUifoiHi  (|nitiini!;  tlio  port,  u  lionso  Wiis 
built  ui'tlio  Hpjii'o  8|)urH  ot'  both  ishipH,  iind  coviuvd  witli 
such  of  tho  h(>using  cJotlis  us  couUI  be  (lispcnsiid  witli. 
Twolvo  months'  nrovinlonH,  fuel,  sind  otlicr  nocessiiries 
were  ulso  left  beliind,  toii;etlier  with  the  steiini  hiunch 
belonjjjiiiij  to  tiie  Investiijjiitor,  wiueli,  Iniviuijj  been  pur- 
])osely  lenjjjthened  seven  feet,  iu>w  formed  u  tine;  vesst'l, 
cai>5ibie  of  conveyinj^  tlie  wlu>hi  of  Sir  Jolin  Frsmklin'a 
piirty  to  the  whsile  wiiipH,  if  neccKsiiry. 

Tlie  Investiijjator  and  Enterprise  now  procoeibMl 
toward  tlic  nortliern  shore  of  Harrow's  Strait,  f(U'  the 
purpose  of  exaniinini^  Wellini^ton  (/hannel,  and,  if  ]m>8- 
sible,  ])enetratinj^  us  far  as  Melville  Island,  bjit  when 
about  twelve  miles  from  the  shore,  the  ships  came  to 
the  fixed  land-ice,  and  found  it  im[)ossible  to  procee<]. 

On  the  1st  (►f  Sejiteniber  a  strong  wind  suddenly 
arisinu^,  brought  the  loose  jiack,  throuujh  whi<;h  they 
had  been  struj^'<j;lin<^,  down  upon  theshi])S,  which  were 
closely  beset.  At  times,  during  two  or  three  days, 
they  sustained  severe  ])ressure,  and  ridij^es  of  hum- 
mocks were  thrown  up  all  around;  but  after  that  time 
the  temperature  falling  to  near  zero,  it  formed  the 
whole  body  of  ice  into  one  solid  mass. 

The  remainder  of  the  narrative,  as  related  by  the 
Commander  of  the  expedition  in  his  ollicial  dispatch, 
will  not  bear  abridjjjment. 

"  We  were  so  circumstanced  that  for  some  days  wo 
could  not  nnship  the  rudder,  and  when,  by  the  labori- 
ous operation  of  sawiiii^  and  removing  the  hummocks 
from  under  the  stern,  we  were  able  to  do  so,  we  ibund 
it  twisted  and  dama'iied  ;  and  the  ship  was  so  much 
strained,  as  to  increase  the  leakage  from  three  inches 
in  a  fortnight  to  fourteen  inches  daily.  The  ice  was 
stationary  for  a  few  days;  the  pressure  had  so  folded 
the  lighttu"  pieces  over  eacii  other  and  they  were  so 
interlaced,  as  to  form  one  entire  sheet,  extending  from 
shore  to  shore  of  Barrow's  Strait,  and  as  far  to  tlui  cast 
and  w(^st  as  the  eye  could  discern  from  the  mast-head, 
wliile  the  extreme  severity  of  the  tein]»ei'utur(!    li:id 


iliii! 


ii>'^  i' 


(i!. 


1 


2S8 


PliOOJiESS    OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVElir. 


cemented  the  whole  so  firmly  toj[^ether  that  it  appeared 
liio;ldy  improbable  that  it  could  break  up  again  this 
season.  In  the  space  which  liad  been  cleared  away 
for  unshipping  the  rudder,  the  newly-formed  ice  was 
iJKteen  inclies  thick,  and  in  some  places  along  the  shi}>'s 
side  the  thirteen-feet  screws  were  too  sliort  to  work. 
A7e  had  now  fully  made  up  our  minds  that  the  ships 
were  fixed  for  the  winter,  and  dismal  as  the  prospect 
appeared,  it  was  far  ])referable  to  being  carried  ahmg 
the  west  coast  of  Bailiu's  Bay,  wliere  the  grounded 
bergs  are  in  such  numbers  upon  the  shallow  banks  off 
that  shore,  as  to  render  it  next  to  impossible  for  ships 
involved  in  a  pack  to  escapo  destruction.  It  was, 
therefore,  with  a  mixture  of  hope  and  anxiety  that,  on 
the  wind  shifting  to  the  westward,  we  perceived  the 
whole  body  of  ice  begin  to  driv^e  to  the  eastward,  at  the 
rate  of  eight  to  ten  miles  daily.  Every  effort  on  our 
part  was  totally  unavailing,  for  no  human  power  could 
have  moved  either  of  the  ships  a  single  inch  ;  they  were 
thus  completely  taken  out  of  our  own  hands,  and  in  the 
center  of  a  field  of  ice  more  than  fifty  miles  in  circum- 
ference, were  carried  along  the  southern  shore  of 
Lancaster  Sound. 

"  After  passing  its  entrance,  the  ice  drifted  in  a  more 
southerly  direction ,  along  the  western  shore  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  until  we  wei  e  abreast  of  Pond's  Bay,  to  the  south- 
ward of  which  we  observed  a  great  number  of  icebergs 
stretching  across  our  path,  and  presenting  the  fearful 
prospect  of  our  worst  anticipations.  But  when  least 
expected  by  us,  our  release  was  almost  miraculously 
brought  about.  The  great  field  of  ice  was  rent  into 
innumerable  fragments,  as  if  by  some  imseen  ])ower." 

By  energetic  exertion,  warping,  and  sailing,  the  ships 
got  clear  of  the  pack,  and  reached  an  open  space  of 
water  on  the  25th  of  September. 

"  It  is  impossible,"  says  Captain  Ross,  in  his  con 
eluding  observations,  "to  convey  any  idea  of  the  sen 
sation  we  experienced  when  we  found  ourselves  once 
more  at  libei'l3%  while  many  a  grateful  heart  poured 
forth  its  ]^rais:.es  and  thanksgivings  to  Almighty  God 
f  )r  this  uiilooked  i'or  deliverance." 


VOyAaE  OV  ENTraiPKISE     nd  invkstigatok. 


289 


was 


"The  advance  of  winter  had  now  closed  all  the  har- 
bors against  ns  ;  and  as  it  was  impossible  to  penetrate 
to  the  westward  through  the  })ack  from  wliich  we  had 
just  been  liberated,  I  made  the  signal  to  ti»e  Investi- 
gator of  my  intention  to  return  to  England." 

After  a  favora1)le  passage,  the  ships  arrived  homo 
early  in  November,  Captain  Sir  J.  C.  lloss  reporting 
himself  at  tiie  Admiralty  on  the  5th  ol  November. 

As  this  is  the  last,  arctic  voyage  of  Sir  James  C  Iloss, 
it  is  a  fitting  place  for  some  record  of  his  arduous 
services. 

Captain  Sir  James  Clarke  Ross  entered  the  navy  in 
1812,  and  served  as  volunteer  of  the  first  class,  mid- 
shipman and  mate  until  1817,  with  his  uncle  Com- 
mander Ross.  In  1818  he  was  appointed  Admiralty 
midshipman  in  the  Isabella,  on  Commander  Ross's  first 
voyage  of  discovery  to  the  arctic  seas.  He  was  tlion 
midsiiipman  in  the  two  following  yeai-s  with  Captain 
Parry,  in  the  Ilecla  ;  followed  him  again  in  the  Fury 
in  his  second  vovage,  and  was  promoted  on  the  2f)tii 
of  December,  1822^.  In  1821:  and  1825,  he  was  lieu- 
tenant in  the  Fury,  under  Captain  IIop])ner,  on  I'arry's 
third  voyago.  In  1827,  he  was  api)ointed  first  lieuten- 
ant of  the  Ilecla,  imder  Parry,  and  accompanied  him 
in  connnand  of  tiie  second  boat  in  his  attemj)t  to  reach 
the  North  Pole.  On  his  return  he  received  liis  promo- 
tion to  the  rank  of  connnander,  the  8tli  of  November, 
1827.  From  1829  to  1833,  he  was  employed  with  his 
uncle  as  second  in  command  in  the  Victory  on  the  pri- 
vate expedition  sent  out  by  Mr.  Felix  Booth.  During 
this  period  he  planted,  on  the  1st  of  June,  1831,  the 
]?)"itish  flag  on  the  North  Magnetic  Pole.  For  this,  on 
his  return,  he  was  presented  by  the  Herald's  College 
with  an  addition  to  his  family  arms  of  an  especial  crest, 
representing  a  llag-staft' erect  on  a  rock,  witli  the  union 
jack  hoisted  thereon,  inscribed  with  the  date,  "  1  June, 
1831."  On  the  23d  of  October,  1834,  he  was  promoted 
to  the  rank  of  Captain,  and  in  the  following  year  em- 
ployed in  nuiking  nuigiietic  observations,  jireparatory 
to  the  ueneral  ma<»;netie  survev  of  England.      In  the 


iliiS. 

'1 


W:* 


290 


PROGRESS   OF   ARCTIC   PISCOVKUY. 


close  of  18u(),  it  having  been  rcprescntod  to  tlio  Ad- 
mimlty,  from  Hull,  that  eleven  wlude  nliips,  having  oil 
board  (JOG  men,  were  left  in  the  ice  in  Davis'  Strait, 
and  in  imminent  danger  of  perishing,  unless  reliet  were 
forwarded  to  them,  the  Lords  Commissioners  resolved 
upon  sending  out  a  ship  to  search  for  them.  Ca[)tain 
Ross,  with  tiiat  promptitude  and  hunuinity  whicli  has 
always  characterized  him,  volunteered  to  go  out  in  the 
depth  of  winter,  and  the  Lieutenants,  F.  II.  M.  Cr<.»zier, 
Inman,  and  Ommaney,  with  the  three  mates,  Jesse, 
Buchan,  and  John  Smith,  and  Mr.  Ilallett,  clerk  in 
charge,  joined  him.  Tiiey  sailed  from  England  on  the 
21st  of  December,  and  on  arriving  in  Davis'  Strait,  after 
a  stormy  passage,  found  that  nine  of  the  missing  shij)S 
were  by  that  time  in  England,  tliat  tlie  tenth  was  re- 
leased on  her  passage,  and  that  tlie  other  was  in  all 
probability  lost,  as  some  of  her  water-casks  had  been 
picked  up  at  sea.  From  1837  to  1838,  Captain  Iloss 
was  employed  in  determining  the  variation  of  the  com- 
pass on  all  parts  of  the  coast  of  Great  Britain  ;  and 
from  1839  to  1843,  as  Captain  of  the  Erebus,  in  com- 
mand of  the  antarctic  expedition.  Li  1841,  he  was 
presented  with  the  founder's  medal  of  the  lioyal  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  London,  for  his  discoveries  toward 
the  South  Pole  ;  and  he  has  also  received  the  gold 
medal  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris.  On  the 
13th  of  March,  1844,  he  received  the  honor  of  knight- 
hood from  the  Queen,  and  in  June  of  the  same  year 
the  University  of  Oxford  bestowed  on  him  their  honor- 
ary degree  of  D.  C.  L.  In  1848,  he  went  out,  as  we 
have  just  seen,  in  the  Enterprise,  in  Command  of  out; 
of  the  searching  expeditions  sent  to  seek  for  Franklin. 

YoTAGE  OF  H.  M.  S.  "  North  Star." 

The  ^North  Star,  of  500  tons,  was  fitted  out  in  the 
spring  of  1849,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  J.  Samulers, 
who  iiad  been  acting  master  with  Captain  Back,  in  tlio 
Terror,  in  her  perilous  voyage  to  the  Frozen  Strait,  in 
1830. 


VOYAGK   OF   THE    NOUTII    STAB. 


291 


The  Iblluu'ing  are  the  olHcers  of  the  ships  : — 

Muster  CoinniiiiKling  —  J.  Saunders. 

Seeoiid    Masters  —  Juhn  Way,  M.  Norman,  IT.  B. 

(jrawler. 
Acting  Ice-masters  —  J.  Leach,  and  G.  Sabestor. 
Assistant  Surgeon  —  James  Hue,  M.  D. 
Clerlv  in  Ciiarge  —  Jas])er  Eutter. 

Tlie  Nortli  Star  sailed  from  the  river  Thames,  on  tlso 
26th  of  May,  1849,  freiglited  with  provisions  for  the 
missing  expedition,  and  with  orders  and  su])plies  for 
the  Enterprise  and  Investigator. 

Tile  following  is  one  of  the  early  dispatches  from  the 
commander  : — - 

"  To  the  Secvfitary  of  the  Admiralty. 

^'11.  M.  S.  North  Star,  Jnh/  19,  1849, 
^  lat.  74°  3'  A^.,  loiKj.  59^  40'  W. 

'"Sir, —  I  addressed  a  letter  to  their  Lordships  on  the 
18th  ult,  when  in  lat.  73°  30'  K.,  and  long.  50°  53'  W., 
detailing  the  particulars  of  my  proceedings  up  to  that 
date,  which  letter  w'as  sent  by  a  boat  from  the  Lady 
Jane,  whaler,  which  vessel  was  wrecked,  and  those  boats 
were  proceeding  to  the  Danish  settlements.  Since  then, 
I  regret  to  state,  oui*  progress  has  been  almost  entirely 
stopped,  owing  to  the  ice  being  so  placed  across  Mel- 
ville Bay  as  to  render  it  perfectly  impassable. 

"  On  the  0th  inst.,  finding  it  impossible  to  make  any 
progress,  I  deemed  it  advisable  to  run  as  far  S.  as  72°, 
examining  the  pack  as  we  went  along.  At  72°  22'  the 
pack  appeared  slacker,  and  w^e  entered  it,  and,  after 
proceeding  about  tw'elve  miles,  found  ourselves  com- 
pletely stopped  by  large  floes  of  ice.  AVe  accordingly 
put  back,  and  steered  again  for  the  northward. 

"  Having  this  day  reached  the  latitude  of  74°  3'  IST., 
and  long.  59°  40'  AV.,  the  ice  appeared  more  open,  and 
we  stood  in  toward  the  land,  wdien  we  observed  two 
boats  approaching,  and  which  afterward,  on  coming 
alongside,  were  found  to  belong  to  the  Prince  of  "Wales, 
whaler,  wliich  vessel  was  nipped  by  the  ice  on  the  12th 
inst,  in  Melville  Bay. 


\m 


'n 


292 


PltoaUKSS    OF   AKCTIO   DISCOVliKY. 


i 
i 


"  By  tho  captain  of  the  Princo  of  "Wales  I  forwM-d 
tliis  letter  to  tlieir  Lordships,  ho  intending  to  proceed 
in  his  boats  to  tlie  Danish  settlements. 
"  1  have  the  honor  to  l)e,  &c. 

"  J.  Saundeks,  Master  and  Commander. 
"  P.  S. —  Crew  all  well  on  board." 

On  tlie  2J)th  of  July,  havinn^  reached  the  vicinity  of 
the  Devil's  Thumb  and  Melville  T3ay,  in  the  northerly 
part  of  Baffin's  Bay,  she  was  beset  in  an  ice-field,  with 
wliich  slie  drifted  helplessly  about  as  the  tide  or  wind 
impelled  her,  until  the  16th  of  August,  when,  a  sliglit 
opening  in  the  ice  appearing,  an  ettbrt  was  made  to 
heave  tJirougli  into  clear  water.  This  proved  labor  in 
vain,  and  no  further  move  was  made  until  the  2l8t  of 
September,  except  as  she  drifted  in  the  ice  floe  in  whicli 
she  was  fixed.  On  the  day  last  named  she  was  driving 
before  a  hard  gale  from  the  S.,8.  W.,  directly  down  upon 
an  enormous  iceberg  in  Melville  Sound,  upon  which  if 
she  had  struck  in  the  then  prevailing  weather,  her  total 
destruction  would  have  been  inevitable.  Providen- 
tially a  corner  of  the  ice-field  in  which  she  was  being 
carried  furiously  along  came  into  violent  collision  with 
the  berg,  a  large  section  was  carried  away,  and  slio 
escaped.  On  the  29th  of  September,  1849,  having  been 
sixty-two  days  in  the  ice,  she  took  up  her  winter  quar- 
ters in  North  Star  Bay,  so  called  after  herself,  a  small 
bay  in  Wolstenholme  Sound,  lying  in  76°  33'  north  lat- 
itude, and  68°  56'  west  longitude  ;  the  farthest  point  to 
the  north  at  which  a  British  ship  ever  wintered.  The 
ship  was  fixed  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  and 
made  snug  for  the  winter,  sails  were  unbent,  the  masts 
struck,  and  the  ship  housed  over  and  made  as  warm 
and  comfortable  as  circumstances  would  permit.  The 
ice  soon  after  took  across  the  Sound,  so  that  the  crew 
could  have  walked  on  shore.  The  cold  was  intense  ; 
but  two  or  three  stoves  warmed  the  ship,  and  ^he  crews 
were  cheered  up  and  encouraged  with  all  sorts  of  games 
and  amusements,  occasionally  visiting  the  shore  for  the 
purpose  of  skylarking.  There  was,  unfortunately,  but 
little  game  to  shoot.     Former  accounts  giive  this  place 


^B 


VOYA(iK    OK    TIIK    NvUM'II    STAU. 


293 


a  liigli  character  for  deer  and  otlier  animals  ;  Imt  tlio 
crew  ot'tlie  Is^orth  Star  never  saw  a  sini:;le  head  of  deer, 
and  other  animals  were  scarce  ;  al)out  fifty  liares  were 
killed.  Foxert  were  numerous,  and  a  number  shut,  but 
nunc  taken  alive.  A  few  Es(|uimaux  familiis  occasion- 
ally visited  the  ship,  and  one  poor  num  was  brouii;ht  on 
board  with  his  feet  so  frozen  that  they  dropped.  He 
Mas  placed  under  the  care  of  the  assistant-sinwtni,  Dr. 
Kae,  who  paid  him  much  attention,  and  his  le<;s  wero 
nearly  cured  ;  but  he  died  from  a  pulmonary  disorder 
after  havinij  been  on  board  some  six  weeks.  The  North 
Star  was  not  able  to  leave  this  retreat  until  the  1st  of 
August,  1850,  and  got  into  clear  water  on  the  third  of 
that  month.  On  the  21st  of  August,  she  spoke  the 
Lady  Franklin,  Captain  Penny,  and  her  consort  tho 
Sophia,  and  the  following  day  the  Felix,  Sir  John  lloss, 
in  Lancaster  Sound.  Captain  Penny  r(']x)rted  that  he 
had  left  Captain  Austin  all  well  on  the  17th  of  August. 
On  the  23d  of  August,  the  North  Star  began  landing 
the  provisions  she  had  carried  out  in  Navy  Board  Li- 
let;  73°  44'  N.  latitude,  80°' 5G'  W.  longitude.  She 
remained  five  days  there,  and  was  occupied  four  and  > 
half  in  landing  the  stores,  which  were  deposited  in  a 
ravine  a  short  distance  from  the  beach  of  Sup[)ly  Bay, 
the  bight  in  Navy  Board  Inlet,  which  the  commander 
of  the  North  Star  so  named.  The  position  of  the  stores 
was  indicated  by  a  flag-staif,  with  a  black  ball,  ami  a 
letter  placed  beneath  a  cairn  of  stones.  They  had  pre- 
viously tried  to  deposit  the  stores  at  Port  Bowen,  and 
Port  Neale,  but  were  prevented  approacliing  them  by 
the  ice.  On  the  30th  of  August,  tlie  North  Star  saw 
and  spoke  the  schooner  Prince  Albert,  Commander 
Forsyth,  in  Possession  Bay.  On  the  31st,  a  boat  was 
sent  to  the  Prince  Albert,  when  Commander  Forsyth 
came  on  board  and  reported  that  he  had  also  been  to 
Port  Neale,  but  had  not  been  able  to  enter  for  the  ice, 
and  had  found  one  of  the  American  ships  sent  out  to 
search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  ashore  in  Barrow's  Strait, 
that  he  had  tendered  assistance,  which  had  been  de- 
clined by  the  American  commander,  as,  his  ship  being 

13* 


ml 


204 


iM{()(ii:!;ss  OK  Aiuriic  discjovkkv. 


! 


!  i 


"luiiiijiircd,  lie  believed  lils  own  crew  competent  to  pjet 
her  olK  Cuniiuunder  Forsyth  rejmrted  that  Ciiptsiin 
Austin  hud  proceeded  to  Pond's  JJiiy  in  the  Intrei)id, 
tender  to  the  Assistance,  to  hind  letters.  The  Korth 
ytar  went  on  to  Tond's  liay,  but  could  not  find  any  in- 
dication of  Caittuin  Austin's  havin<^  been  there.  It  is 
co!ijectured  that  he  had  i)asscd  the  appointed  8])ot  in  a 
fog.  The  North  Star's  people  suifered  much  from  the 
intense  cold,  but  only  lost  live  hands  durinp^  her  peril- 
ous trip  and  arctic  winter  quarters.  She  left  there  on 
September  0th,  and  reached  Si)lthead  on  the  28th  of 
September,  lSr»0.  Since  liis  return  Mr.  Saunders  has 
been  a}>})(»inted  Master  AtteAdant  of  the  Dock-yard  at 
!Malta.  The  Admiralty  have  received  dis])atches  from 
Captain  Sir  J.  Itoss,  Captain  Penny,  and  Cai)tain  ()m- 
maney.  Cajjtain  Omnuiney,  in  the  Assistance,  datinjjj 
from  off  Lancaster  Sound,  latitude  7;")"  4(5'  N.,  lon<^i- 
tucle  75°  40'  AV.,  states  tiuit  some  Esquimaux  had  de- 
scribed to  him  a  shij)  being  hauled  in  during  the  last 
winter,  and,  on  going  to  the  spot,  he  found,  from  some 
papers  left,  that  it  M'as  the  North  Star,  llo  was  pro- 
ceeding to  search  in  Lancaster  Sound.  Captain  Penny, 
of  the  J^ady  Franklin,  writing  from  Lancaster  Sound, 
August  21,  states,  that  having  heard  cm  the  18th  from 
Ca[)tain  Austin  of  a  re]iort  fi'om  the  Esquimaux,  that 
Sir  John  Franklin's  ships  had  been  lost  forty  miles 
north,  and  the  crews  murdered,  he  went  with  an  inter- 
preter, but  could  find  no  evidence  for  the  rumor,  and 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  whole  story  had  been 
founded  on  the  North  Star's  wintering  there,  lie  con- 
sidered that  his  interpreter,  M.  Petersen,  had  done  much 
food  by  exposing  tlio  fallacy  of  the  story  of  Sir  J 
loss's  Esquimaux. 

IIer  Majesty's  Snirs  "Enterprise"  and  "Investiga 
tor"  under  Captain  Collinson. 

The  Enterprise  and  Investigator  were  fitted  out  agair 
immediately  on  their  return  home,  and  placed  nndei 
the  charge  of  Captain  B.  Collinson,  C.  B.,  with  the  fol 


I 


I 

a 

2 


2 
SI 


i. 


■i  1. ,     I" 


HIiroNH   \'\IH'  OK  KNIKUI'UIHK  ANf)  IN  VKMI'IUA  Inlf.     'JD^ 

1.  sviii<;  (»lli«'i<iv.  utluclu<l,  l.»  i»n.ifi'(l  lo  I{t<lir'mg'H  Siruil, 
to  rowiimo  tliu  bcur'"l»  in  ilml,  dircctidii : — 

Knt>  i'l>i'!.s(\',\\{)  tona. 

Cuptiiiii  —  \l.  (■oIliiiHon. 

J.iouli'iuuitH  —  ((.A.  i'huvru,^  J.  J.  lianiunl ,*  tiiul 

().  T.  ,Iup.. 
MuHtcr K.  T.  (;.  \a^^u^. 

Ht'ctnid  MiiHtiT    -l''ruiK'iHSla)ml. 
]\IuU>    -M.  T.  I'uikM. 
ISurnjcim — •  Ivdlu'i't  Aiidi^rKoii.'* 
AHHiHt)iiil,-Sur«j;t'oii  —  I'ldwjird  AduiiiH.* 
Clork  in  Clmr';ii  —  I'M  ward  VVhitA-luiud.* 
ruttil  cumpUMiiciit,  0(1. 

Oomnuindcr  —  Tl.  .1.  l\I'(!liir('.* 
J.iiaitciiiiid.s  —  W.  II.  Ilusvvi'il  mid  S.  0.  (1n^f<HWcll.* 
]\lidi's —  II.  II.  S:iiiitsl)iny  uikI  It.  J.  Wyiiiutt. 
Hccoiid  Mast(>r  —  Sd'plu'ii  ('uiirl.'^' 
8ur<jj('on  —  Ait'xjindcr  Aniistr()ii<^,  M.  D. 
AsHislant-Sur<jjt'()ii  —  jly.  IMci'm. 
CJvrk  ill  Cliai'p)  —  Jos('|)li  (J.  Pairio. 
iottil  C()m[»kMii(Mit,  (Id. 

TlioiJc  oflicors  markod  witli  u  Htar  hud  boon  with  tlio 
phii)R  in  tli(dr  last  v«!•;a<JJ(^ 

Those  vessels  Haik'd  tVeui  l^lynionth  on  the  iiOth  of 
January,  ISHd.  A  Mr.  Mieitseldn^,  u  ^loravian  irns- 
^ionary,  was  aj)])ointed  to  the  l*]nt(!ri)rise  as  inter|)ret(4'. 
This  o-entlenian  is  in  the  j|)rinie  of  life,  of  robust  health, 
inured,  by  ji  service  of  iive  yearw  in  Labrador,  to  tiie 
hardships  and  ])rivationsof  the  arctic  regions,  atid  sulli- 
ciently  ae(|nainted  witli  the  laniL»na*r((  and  nianners  of 
tiie  Es(jniniaux  to  be  able  to  hold  friendly  and  unro- 
Borved  intercourse  with  them. 

The  Investigator  and  the  Enterprise  were  at  the 
Sandwicii  IskiiulH  on  June  21)th.  Ca])tain  (JoUinson 
]>ur])ose(l  sailing  in  a  ihw  <lays,  and  expected  to  reach 
the  ico  about  the  8th  of  July.     Prior  to  his  arrival, 


f 


2yo 


PKOOKKSS   OF   AliOTlO   DISCOVE.HY. 


miiiuMOUs  wliiilcM's  liiid  started  for  tlio  Stniit,  one  in  par- 
ticular, inult'r  tliu  c'oiuuuiiul  of  a  Captain  lioys,  with 
the  oxprossud  intention  of  endeavoring  to  earn  the 
Franklin  reward. 

These  vessels  are  intended  to  penetrate,  if  possible,  to 
the  western  extremity  of  Alelville  Island,  there  to  winter, 
and  make  fiirLlier  seareli,  in  the  spring  of  1851,  for  the 
erews  of  the  lost  shi[)s. 

in  a  letter  from  Captain  Collinson  to  Commander  Mc- 
Clnre,  dated  Oaliu,  Jnne  2yth,  1850,  M'ith  a  sight  of 
whieh  I  have  been  lavored  at  the  Adnundty,  lie  thns 
describes  h's  intentions — "1  intend  making  the  ])ack 
close  to  the  American  siiore,  and  availinij  mvself  of  the 
tirst  favorable  o})ening  west  of  tiie  coast  stream  ;  pressing 
forward  toward  Melville  Island.  In  the  event  of  meet- 
ing land;  it  is  most  probable  that  1  wonld  pnrsne  the 
southern  iL^hore."' 

The  latest  letter  received  from  Connnandi'r  McClnre 
is  dated  Kotzebne  Sound,  July  27th,  1850,  and  the 
following  is  an  extract : — 

"  Yon  will  be  glad  to  learn  that  to  this  we  have  been 
highly  favored,  carrying  a  fair  wind  from  Whoa,  wiiich 
place  we  left  on  the  4th.  We  ])assed  the  Aleutian 
Islands  on  the  20th,  in  172°  30'  W.,  and  got  fairlv 
through  the  Straits  to-day,  and  we  consider  we  are  upon 
our  ground  ;  the  only  detriment  has  been  very  dense 
fogs,  which  have  rendered  the  navigation  of  the  islands 
exceedino-ly  nervous  wt)rk  :  but  as  tlie  object  to  be 
achieved  is  of  so  important  a  nature,  all  hazards  nnist 
be  run  to  carry  out  the  intentions  of  those  at  home, 
which  have  vei'v  foi'tunatelv  terminated  witiiout  acci- 
dent.  We  are  now  making  the  most  of  our  wind,  and 
we  hope  to  meet  an  American  whaler,  of  which  I  bcv 
lieve  there  are  a  great  nund)er  fishing  tins  season,  and 
to  whom  we  nnist  intrust  our  last  dispatches.  Sincerely 
do  I  trust  that,  ere  we  return,  some  tidings  of  ])oor  Sir 
John  and  his  noble  companions  may  reward  our  search  ; 
which  will  render  the  loni!i:-souo;lit  for  passai^c,  should 
it  be  our  fortune  to  make  it,  one  of  the  most  memoral)le 
in  the  annals  of  our  times,  and  relieve  many  an  anxious 
lu'oist " 


SECOXI)   TIJIP    OV   ENTKUPRISE   AND   INVKSTIOATOU.  -'J7 

Di«p."'c;lie8  have  been  received  at  the  Admiralty  from 
Captain  Kellet,  C.  13.,  ot*  her  Majesty's  slii])  llerakl, 
dated  at  sea,  the  14th  .of  Oetoher,'l850,  on  Jiis  return 
from  Beiiring's  Strait.  The  Herald  had  communicated 
with  her  Majesty's  ship  rk>ver,  on  the  lOth  of  July,  at 
Chamisso  Island,  where  the  Plover  had  passed  the  ])re- 
{.•eding  winter.  The  two  ships  proceeded  to  the  nortli- 
ward  until  they  sighted  the  pack-ice,  when  the  Herald 
returned  to  Cape  Lisburne,  in  quest  of  Captain  Coliin- 
Bon's  expedition,  and  on  the  31st  fell  in  with  her  Maj- 
esty's ship  Investigator,  which  had  made  a  surprisingly 
short  passage  of  twenty-six  days  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  The  Herald  remained  cruising  oft'  Cape  Lis- 
burne, and  again  fell  in  with  the  Plover  on  the  13th  of 
August,  on  her  return  from  Point  Barrow,  Commander 
Moore  having  coasted  in  his  boats,  and  minutely  exam- 
ined the  several  inlets  as  far  as  that  point  from  Icy  Cape 
without  gaining  any  intelligence  of  the  missing  expedi- 
tion. Conmiander  Moore  and  his  boat's  crew  had  suf- 
fered severely  from  exposure  to  cold.  Captain  Kellet, 
havini>:  fnllv  victualed  the  Plover,  ordered  Jier  to  M'inter 
in  Grantley  Harbor  (her  former  anchorage  at  Chamisso 
Island  not  being  considered  safe,)  and  tl  eii  returned  to 
the  southward  on  his  wav  to  Eno-lanc' 

Disijatches  have  also  been  received  from  Captain  Col- 
linson,  C.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Enterprise,  and 
Commander  M'Clure,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Investigator 
of  which  the  following  are  copies  : — 


!r  m 


"  Her  Majestifs  Ship  ' Enterprise^ 
^'•Port  Clarence,  Sq)t.  13,1850. 

"Sir, — I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  an  account  of 
the  proceedings  of  her  Majesty's  ship  under  my  com- 
mand since  leaving  Oahu  on  the  30th  of  June. 

"Being  delayed  by  light  winds,  we  only  reached  the 
western  end  of  the  Aleutian  Chain  by  the  29th  of  July, 
and  made  the  Island  of  St.  Lawrence  on  the  11th  of 
August,  from  whence  I  sha]ied  a  course  for  Cape  Lis- 
burne, in  anticipation  of  falling  in  with  the  Herald  or 


^M^ 


208 


PKOGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


tlic  Plover.  Not,  however,  seeing  either  of  these  ves- 
Buls,  and  finding  nothing  deposited  on  sliore,  I  went  on 
to  "Wiiinwright  Inlet,  the  last  rendezvous  appointed. 
Here  we  communicated  on  the  15th,  and  being  alike 
unsuccessful  in  obtaining  any  information,  I  stood  to 
the  north,  made  the  ice  following  morning,  and  reached 
the  latitude  Y2°  40'  IS",  in  the  meridian  of  150°  au'  W., 
without  serious  obstruction.  Here,  however,  the  pack 
became  so  close  that  it  was  impossible  to  make  way  in 
any  direction  except  to  the  southward.  Having  extri- 
cated ourselves  by  noon  on  the  19th,  we  continued  to 
coast  along  the  edge  of  the  main  body,  which  took  a 
southeasterly  trend,  running  through  the  loose  streams, 
so  as  not  to  lose  sight  of  tight  pack.  At  4  a.  m.  on  the 
20th  we  were  in  the  meridian  of  Point  Barrow,  and 
twenty-eight  miles  to  the  north  of  it,  when  we  found 
open  water  to  the  N.  E.,  in  which  we  sailed,  without 
losing  sight  of  the  ice  to  the  north  until  the  morning 
of  the  21st,  when  we  were  obstructed  by  a  heavy  bar- 
rier trending  to  the  southwest.  A  thick  fog  coming  on, 
we  made  a  board  to  the  north,  in  order  to  feel  the  pack: 
edge  in  the  upper  part  of  the  bight,  and  not  to  leave 
any  part  unex]  ^ored.  Having  satisfied  myself  tluit  no 
opening  existed  ..i  this  direction,  we  bore  away  to  the 
south,  running  through  heavy  lioes  closely  packed,  and 
pushing  to  the  eastward  when  an  opportunity  oti;ered. 
In  this,  however,  we  were  unsuccessful,  being  com- 
pelled to  pursue  a  westerly  course,  the  floes  being  very- 
heavy  and  hummocky.  ijy  8  p.  m.  we  were  within 
thirty  miles  of  the  land,  and  having  clear  weather, 
could  see  the  ice  closely  packed  to  the  south  that  left 
no  doubt  in  my  mind  that  a  stop  was  put  to  our  pro- 
ceeding in  this  direction,  by  tlie  ice  butting  so  close  on 
the  shoal  coast  as  to  leave  no  chance  that  our  progress 
along  it  would  justify  the  attempt  to  reach  Cape  Bath- 
urst,  a  distance  of  570  miles,  during  the  remaininc: 
portion  of  this  season;  and  finding  this  opinion  was 
coincided  in  by  those  ofiicers  on  board  qualified  to 
form  an  opinion  on  the  subject,  I  determined  to  lose 
no  time  in  communicating  with  Point  Barrow,  but  to 


SECOND  TKIP  OF  ENTEKrRISE  AND  INVESTIGATOR      299 


pack 


u  no 


attempt  the  passage  furtlier  north,  in  hopes  that  the 
lane  of  water  seen  last  year  by  tlie  Herald  and  Plover 
would  aft'ord  me  an  opening  to  the  eastward.  I  there- 
fore reluctantly  proceeded  again  to  the  west,  and  turn- 
ing the  pack  edge  tifteen  miles  further  to  the  south 
tlian  it  was  on  the  day  after  we  left  Wainwriglit  Inlet, 
we  followed  the  edge  of  a  loose  pack  greatly  broken 
up,  until  we  reached  163°  W.  long.,  when  it  took  a 
sudden  turn  to  the  north,  in  which  direction  we  fol- 
lowed it  until  the  morning  of  the  27th,  when  we  were 
in  latitude  73°  20',  and  found  the  pack  to  the  westward 
trending  southerly.  I  therefore  plied  to  the  eastward, 
endeavoring  to  make  way,  but  such  was  its  close  con- 
dition that  we  could  not  work,  although  we  might  have 
warped  through,  had  the  condition  of  the  ice  in  that 
direction  afforded  us  any  hope ;  but  this,  I  am  sorry  to 
say,  was  not  the  case,  and,  on  the  contrary,  the  further 
we  entered,  the  larger  the  floes  became,  leaving  us,  in 
thick  weather,  often  in  great  difficulty  where  to  find  a 
lane.  On  the  29th  the  thermometer  having  fallen  to 
28°,  and  there  being  no  prospect  of  our  being  able  to 
accomplish  any  thing  toward  the  fulfillment  of  their 
Lordships'  instructions  this  season,  I  bore  away  for 
Point  Hope,  where  I  arrived  on  the  31st,  and  found  a 
bottle  deposited  by  the  Herald,  which  informed  me 
that  it  was  intended  to  place  the  Plover  in  Grantl6.y 
Harbor  this  season.  I  accordingly  proceeded  thither, 
with  the  view  of  taking  her  place  for  the  winter,  and 
enabling  Commander  Moore  to  recruit  his  ship's  com- 
pany by  going  to  the  southward.  On  my  arrival  I 
found  her  inside,  preparing  her  winter  quarters,  and 
having  examined  and  buoyed  the  bar,  I  attempted^  to 
take  this  vessel  inside,  but  failed  in  ''  ' — '"  - 


doing 


so,  owin  ' 


to  the  change  of  wind  from  south  to  north  having  re- 
duced the  depth  of  water  four  feet,  and  had  to  relieve 
the  ship  of  100  tons,  which  was  quickly  done  by  the 
opportune  arrival  of  the  Herald,  before  she  was  re- 
leased from  a  very  critical  position.  The  tides  being 
irregular,  the  rise  and  fall  depending  principally  on 
the  wind,  and  that  wind  whicli  occasions  the  highest 


!» t 'fi 


m 


iv-t 


'I'i'a 


:\{^o 


V\iOUn\>^    or    AKTlir    lM^(•^tV^•^JY. 


wutor  |M'«Mliu'iiii;  :i  swoll  on  the  l>nv,  it  Ikhmmuo  a  qiios- 
tion  wliotluM*  i\  oitM>iil«M!il)K'  portion  ol'  tho  tMisuino; 
soason  uiiiilit  not  ho  lost  in  ^otfinii'  llio  ship  ont  ot' 
(iriUiiK\v  llarht'i';  antl  on  t'onsnHin«a;  Captains  KoUot 
and  Mo»>ro,  tin»iini;"  it  to  ho  thoir  opinion,  t'onnthMl  on 
tlio  oxpiM'ivMU'o  oi  two  voars,  that  iho  whahMs  comini::; 
iVoni  tht^  sontli  pass  tlironul\  thi'  Strait  t>arlv  in  .luiu\ 
whoii'as  till'  h.'iihoiv  ai'o  hlorkod  nntil  lhi<  n\i«l«lK'  ol' 
.Inly,  I  Uiwo  ronio  to  tlio  oonclu-^ion  that  1  shall  hvMtor 
port'vT.n  tho  iinportMnl  »lnly  fontitloil  in  tno  hv  rotnitj- 
in^-  to  tho  sontli,  ami  fi>|>lonishinii-  niy  provisions,  in 
sioatl  i>t'  wintorinji;  on  tho  Asiatio  Shofi»,  \\hori»  tluMv> 
is  not  a  prospvuM  ol'  onr  hoinjv  »*'  '''^^  sli^hti'st  nso  to 
tho  niissinij;  oxpodilion.  It  is  thiM"oti»ro  my  intontion 
to  pnu'ood  to  l(»»niX  IvoniX,  it  hoini;-  noaror  than  N'alpa 
raiso,  ami  tho  oohl  soason  havit\i>:  sot  in,  my  stoivs  and 
provisions  will  not.  ho  oxposod  to  tho  hoat  of  a  donhlo 
jiassM^v'  thri»nuh  tho  Ii-immos;  ami  as  I  shall  not  loavo 
nntil  tho  1st,  ot'  AjM'il,  1  n\ay  i\H'oivi>  any  I'tn'thor  in- 
Btrnotions  tholr  Ii<»rdships  nnty  ph^aso  to  oommimioati>, 

"Tho  IMovor  has  hoon  stored  and  provisionod,  and 
suoh  ot*  hor  crow  as  aro  not  in  a  tit  stato  to  oontond 
with  tho  riii'or  vtt*  a  Tarlhor  stay  in  thoso  latit\ulos  liavo 
hoon  romovoil,  .md  rophu-od  hy  Captaii\  Ki>llot,and  tho 
l>;uaiiraphs  rol'orrinii;  to  hor  in  my  iivstrnotions  t'nllillod. 

"I.  havo  diroolo»l  (.\Mnmander  Mooro  to  oommnni 
o;\to  annnallv  with  an  Island  iti  St.  Lawronoo  Hav,  in 
la,ii!ido  (i.V'.SS'  N.,  and  Ion-it nilo  ITl)^^  V.V  W.,  which 
is  muv'h  rosortod  i  •  hy  tho  whahM's,  and  w1um"o  any 
oommnnioation  tluMr  l,ordshii)s  may  ho  j>loasod  to  soiul 
may  ho  (K^positod  by  tluMn,  as  thoy  aro  not  in  tho 
hahit  ot\'rni>ini;-  on  this  ^id(^  ot'tlu*  Strait  ;  and  1  havi> 
loqnostod  Captain  l\;>llot  to  i'oi'ward  to  tlu»  Admiralty 
all  tho  intormation  k^w  r.;is  head  ho  nuiv  obtain  at  tho 
Sandwioh  Islands. 

"It  is  my  intonti«ni  to  ]>rooood  ai:;aiii  to  tho  nortli, 
and  ronniin  in  tho  most  oli<j:iblo  position  t'(>r  allbnlinij; 
assis'anoo  to  tho  Invostiuator,  which  vessel,  having 
boon  I'avorod  with  a  surprisini;;  passauo  iVom  tho  Sand- 
wich Islands,  was  I'allon  in  with  bv  tho  Ilorald  on  tho 


SKCONH    IKII*  OK  KNTKUI'KISK  AND  IN VKSriO.VlOK'.     ',\0{ 


U\M  of  ,luly,  olV  Poinl  llo|>i»,  jumI  Mijiiin  on  Uio  Mil  of 
Aiiuust,  hy  llu»  I'lovor,  in  lalihulo  TO''  II'  N.,  aiul  lon- 
jljiliulo  I.M>''  i">'J'\V.,  wluMi  hIu^  was  stiiiMJinij  loljio  north 
utnliM*  a  pivss  of  sail,  ami  in  all  pnthahilily  timu'IumI 
tlu»  vicinity  oi'  i'oint  Harrow,  lilteon  dayw  provions  to 
tlu>  Kntor|>riso,  wIumi  (^iptaiii  M'('lnri>,  liaviiiij:  (ho 
wholo  soason  hoforo  hini,  and  aniinaltMl  with  the  <lo- 
tcrMiination  so  vividly  t<xpiossiMl  in  his  lotti'V  to  (^ip- 
tain  lu»l!i»t(,  has  most,  likidy  lakon  tho  inshort>  ronto, 
and  1  hopi>  heloro  this  pt»riod  rt»acluM|  (^apc  nathnrst; 
hut  as  ho  will  l»i>  oxposi^d  to  tlu>  iminiiuMit  risk  ol'  lK>in<jj 
Gni'iMl  on  !i  shoal  shore  ami  t'ompelUMl  to  taki^  to  his 
lioats,  I  shall  not  I'orsaki^  tho  coast,  to  tho  norlhwai'd 
ol'  I'oint  lloptMmlil  I lu>  soason  is  so  tar  ad\anoo«l  as 
to  insuro  tluMr  havini:;  takon  up  thoir  winter  (puirtors 
tor  this  soason. 

"I  have  ri'ooivod  iVom  my  olHoors  iind  ship's  com- 
pany that  assistance  and  alacrity  in  the  piMMormance 
o{'  tlu'ir  dnty,  which  tho  m»hle  cause  in  which  we  are 
enii:ai;od  mnsi  t>\iM«o,  and  1  have  the  satist'action  to  re- 
port that,  (mnlor  tlu>  l»K»ssinu;  ol'  (Jod)  owinti;  to  the 
nutans  tluMr  Lordships  have  snppliod  in  t»xtra  clothint«; 
and  provisions,  we  are  at  present  withont  a  man  on 
tho  sick  list,  notwithstamling  tho  leni>;lhened  jioriod  ot* 
our  vi>yago. 

"I  have,  i^'C, 

KionAiti)  (\>M,iN80N,  Captuiu. 

"Tho  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty." 


/<rfifiufr  ^r  L>(;'  .v.,  lon]iitu,l<^  17'^  WW   W.^Jidi/  'JO. 

SiK, —  As  I  havt>  rociMViMl  instructions  l'i-om  Captain 
(^>llinson,  (\  !>.,  clear  and  niuMuharrassinu-,  [\\  c(»|>y  of 
which  I  im'losi>,)  to  proceetl  to  C^ape  Lishuriu^  in  the 
hope  of  meetiiii;  him  in  that  vicinity,  as  ho  anticipates 
hoiu"*'  dotainoil  a  dav  or  two  hv  tlu^  IMovor  in  Kot/.oluie 
iSound,  it  is  unnocossarv  to  add  that  ov»'rv  oxiM'tion  shall 
ho  madi'  to  roach  that  roniKvAous,  hut  can  scari-o  ven- 
ture to  hope  tiuit  even  under  very  favorahle  eircuni- 


ii 


u 


% 

^1 


302 


PROGRESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


stances  I  shall  be  so  fortunate  as  to  accomplish  it  ere 
the  Enterprise  will  have  ronnded  that  cape,  from  her 
superior  sailinn^,  siie  hitherto  liaving  beaten  us  by  eight 
days  to  Cape  Virgins,  and  from  Magellan  Strait  to  Oaliu 
six.  It  is,  therefore,  under  the  probable  case  that  this 
vessel  may  form  a  detached  part  of  the  expedition  that 
I  feel  it  my  duty  to  state,  for  the  information  of  the 
Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  the  course 
which,  under  such  a  contingency,  I  shall  endeavor  to 
pursue,  and  have  to  request  that  you  will  lay  the  same 
before  their  Lordships. 

"  1.  After  passing  Cape  Lisburne,  it  is  my  intention 
to  keep  in  tlie  open  water,  which,  from  the  difterent 
reports  that  I  have  read,  appears  about  this  season  of 
the  year  to  make  between  the  Ameri'jan  coast  and  the 
main  pack  as  far  to  the  northward  as  the  130th  meridian, 
unless  a  favorable  opening  should  earlier  appear  in  the 
ice,  which  would  lead  me  to  infer  that  I  might  push 
more  directlv  for  Banks'  Land,  which  I  think  is  of  the 
uf-most  importance  to  thorougiily  examine.  In  the  event 
of  tlius  far  succeed  in  o;,  aad  the  season  continuing  favor- 
able  for  further  operations,  it  would  be  my  anxious 
desire  to  get  to  the  northward  of  Melville  It^land,  and 
resume  our  search  along  its  shores  and  the  islands  adja- 
cent as  long  as  the  niivigation  can  be  carried  on,  and 
then  secure  for  tlie  winter  in  the  most  eligible  position 
which  offers. 

"  2.  In  the  ensuing  spring,  as  soon  as  it  is  practicable 
for  traveling  yjarties  to  start,  I  should  dispatch  as  many 
as  the  state  of  the  crew  M'ill  admit  of  in  different  direc- 
tio". ,,  each  being  provided  with  forty  days'  provisions, 
with  directions  to  examine  minutely  all  bays,  inlets  and 
islands  toward  the  northeast,  ascending  occasionally 
some  of  the  highest  points  of  land,  so  as  to  be  enabled 
to  obtain  extended  vie\vs,  being  particularly  cautious  in 
their  advance  to  obsei  '    ' 


any 


up 


the  ice,  so  that  their  return  to  the  ship  may  be  effected 
without  hazard,  even  before  tlie  expenditure  of  their 
provisirms  would  otherwise  render  it  necessary. 

"  3.  Supposing  the  parties  to  have  returned  without 


SECOND  TKIP  OP  ENTEEPKISE  AND  INVESTIGATOR.     303 

tjbtaining  any  clue  of  the  absent  ships,  and  the  vessel 
liberated  about  the  1st  of  August,  my  object  would  then 
be  to  push  on  toward  Wellington  Inlet,  assuming  that 
tluit  channel  communicates  with  the  Polar  tSea,  and 
search  both  its  shores,  unless  in  doing  so  some  indication 
should  be  met  with  to  show  that  parties  from  any  of 
Captain  Austin's  vessels  had  previously  done  so,  when 
I  should  return,  and  endeavor  to  penetrate  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Jones'  Sound,  carefully  examining  every  place 
that  was  practical)le.  Should  our  efforts  to  reach  tliis 
23oint  be  successful,  and  in  the  route  no  traces  are  dis- 
cernible of  the  long  missing  expedition,  I  should  not 
then  be  enabled  longer  to  divest  myself  of  the  feelings, 
painful  as  it  must  be  to  arrive  at  such  a  conclusion,  that 
all  human  aid  would  then  be  .perfectly  unavailing;  and 
therefore,  under  such  a  conviction,  I  would  think  it  my 
duty,  if  possible,  to  return  to  England,  or  at  all  events 
endeavor  to  reach  some  port  that  would  insure  that  ob- 
ject upon  the  following  year. 

"  4.  In  the  event  of  this  being  our  last  communica- 
tion, I  would  request  you  to  assure  their  lordshij)s  that 
no  apprehensions  whatever  need  be  entertained  of  our 
safety  until  the  autumn  of  1854,  as  we  have  on  board 
three  years  of  all  species  of  provisions,  commencing 
from  the  1st  of  September  proximo,  which,  without 
much  deprivation,  may  be  made  to  extend  over  a  period 
of  four  years  ;  moreovci',  whatever  is  killed  by  tiie  hunt- 
ing parties,  I  intend  to  .ssue  in  lieu  of  the  usual  rations, 
which  will  still  further  i)rotract  our  resources. 

"  It  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  say  that  the  good 
effects  of  the  fruit  and  vegetables,  (a  large  quantity  of 
which  we  took  on  board  at  Oahu,)  are  very  perceptible 
in  the  increased  vigor  of  the  men,  wlio  at  this  moment 
are  in  as  excellent  condition  as  it  is  possible  to  desire, 
and  evince  a  spirit  of  confidence  and  a  cheerfulness  of 
disposition  which  are  beyond  all  appreciation. 

"  5.  Should  difficulties  apparently  insurmountable  en- 
compass our  progress,  so  as  to  render  it  a  matter  of 
doubt  whether  the  vessel  could  be  extricated,  I  should 
deem  it  expedient  in  that  case  not  to  hazai-d  the  lives 


I 


i 


304 


PROGRESS   OP   ARCTIC    PTSCOVERT. 


of  those  intrusted  to  my  cli.arge  after  the  winter  of  1852, 
but  in  the  ensuing  R[)riiig  quit  the  vessel  witli  siedgea 
and  lK>ats,  and  nuike  the  best  of  our  way  either  to 
Pond's  15ay,  Leopold  lIarl)or,  the  Maekenzie,  or  for 
whalers,  aeeording  to  cireunistances. 

"Finally,  lu  tins  letter  I  have  endeavored  to  give  an 
outline  of  what  I  wish  to  aeconiplish,  (and  wiiat,  under 
moderately  favorable  seasons,  appears  to  me  attainable,) 
tlie  earrying  out  of  whieh,  liowever,  not  resting  upon 
liunian  exertiuns,  it  is  impossible  even  to  surmise  if  any, 
or  wiiat,  portion  may  be  suceessful.  But  my  object  in 
addressing  you  is  to  place  their  ].ordships  in  possession 
of  my  intentions  up  to  the  latest  period,  so  far  as  possi- 
ble, fo  relieve  their  minds  from  any  unnecessary  anxiety 
as  to  our  fate  ;  and  having  done  this,  a  duty  whieh  is 
incumbent  from  the  deep  sympathy  expressed  by  their 
Lordships,  and  participated  in  by  all  classes  of  our 
countrymen,  in  the  interesting  object  of  this  expedition, 
I  have  only  to  add,  that  with  the  ample  resources  which 
a  beneficent  government  and  a  generous  country  have 
placed  at  our  disposal,  (not  any  thing  that  can  add  to 
our  comfort  being  wanting,)  we  enter  upon  this  distin- 
guished service  with  a  firm  determination  to  carry  out, 
as  far  as  in  our  feeble  strength  we  are  permitted,  their 
benevolent  intentions. 

"  I  have,  itc, 
"RoBKiiT  M'Clure,  Commander." 


"jSTt'r  Majef<ty''s  shij)  ''Enterpriser^ 
''Oa7iu,June2^,l^hO. 

"Memorandum. — As  soon  as  Tier  Majesty's  ship  under 
your  command  is  fully  complete  with'  provisions,  fuel, 
and  water,  you  will  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  Cape 
Lisburne,  k(H'ping  a  gO(id  look-out  foV  tlie  iterald.  or 
casks,  and  firing  guns  in  foggy  Aveather,  after  passing 
Lawrence  Bay.  The  winders  also  may  afford  you  infor- 
mation of  our  progress. 

"Should  yon  obtain  no  intelligence,  you  will  under- 
stand tlint  I  intend  to  make  tlie  pack  close  to  the  Ameri- 


DlSI'ATCllli?!  FKOM  ENTEUriMSP:  AXl)  INVI-:STICtA'l«.it.      305 


rl  to 


iiig 


can  shore,  and  piirHue  the  first  favorable  opeiiitipj  west 
of  tlie  Coast  stream,  pressiniij  forward  toward  Melville 
Hand.  In  the  event  of  ineetinjijj  land,  it  is  most  proba- 
ble that  I  Would  pursue  tiie  southern  shore,  but  consjiic- 
U0U8  nuirks  will  be  ereeted,  if  practicable,  and  informa- 
tion buried  at  a  ten-foot  radius. 

"  As  it  is  necessary  to  be  prepared  for  the  eontin- 
p;encv  of  your  not  bein«]j  able  to  follow  by  the  ice  clos- 
ing in,  or  the  severity  of  the  weather,  you  will  in  that 
case  keep  the  Investigator  as  close  to  the  edge  of  the 
pack  as  is  consistent  with  her  safety,  and  remain  there 
until  the  season  compels  you  to  depart,  when  you  will 
look  into  Kotzebue  Sound  for  the  Plover,  or  informa- 
tion regarding  her  position  ;  and  having  (leposited  un- 
der her  charge  a  twelve  month's  provisions,  you  will 
proceed  to  Valparaiso,  replenish,  and  return  to  the 
Strait,  bearing  in  mind  that  the  months  of  June  and 
July  are  the  most  favorable. 

"  A  letter  from  the  hydrographer  relative  to  the  vari- 
ation of  the  compass  is  annexed  ;  and  you  will  bear  in 
mind  that  the  value  of  these  observations  will  he  greatly 
enhanced  by  obtaining  the  variation  with  the  ship's 
head  at  every  second  or  fourth  point  round  the  com- 
pass occasionally,  and  she  should  be  swung  for  devia- 
tion in  harbor  as  often  as  opportunity  may  offer. 

"  Should  you  not  find  the  Plover,  or  that  any  casualty 
has  happened  to  render  her  inetticient  as  a  depot,  you 
will  take  her  place  ;  and  if,  (as  Captain  ICellett  sup- 
poses,) Kotzebue  Sound  has  proved  too  exp(»sed  for  a 
Avinter  harbor,  you  will  proceed  to  Grantley  ITurbor, 
leaving  a  notice  to  that  effect  on  Chamisso  Island. 
The  attention  of  your  officers  is  to  be  called,  and  you 
will  read  to  your  ship's  company,  the  remarks  of  Sir 
J.  Richardson  concerning  the  communication  with  the 
Es<piimaux,  contained  in  the  arctic  report  received  at 
Plymouth. 

"  Your  operations  in  the  season  1851,  cannot  be 
guided  by  me,  nor  is  there  any  occasion  to  urge  you  to 
proceed  to  the  northeast ;  yet  it  will  be  highly  desir- 
able, previous  to  entering  the  pack,  that  you  completed 


m 


■.-\  r 

m 


■m 


■m 


ftp 


306 


riiouKKss  or  auctio  mscoveuy. 


I 


i 


! 


# 


provisions  from  wiuilcrB,  and  ol)tiunc'il  as  inncli  reindeer 
niout  as  possible.  Captain  Ivellett's  narrative  M'ill  point 
out  where  tlie  latter  is  to  be  lia<l  in  most  abundaneo, 
and  where  coal  can  l)e  ]/ic'ked  up  on  the  beach  ;  but 
husband  the  latter  article  during  the  winter,  by  using 
all  the  drift-wood  in  your  power. 

"In  the  event  of  leavinuj  the  Strait  this  season,  you 
will  take  any  weak  or  sickly  men  out  of  the  Plover, 
and  re])race  them  from  your  crews,  afl'ording  Com- 
mander Moore  all  the  assistance  in  your  power,  and 
leaving  with  him  Mr.  Miertsching,  the  interpreter  ;  in- 
structions with  regard  to  whose  accommodations  you 
have  received,  and  will  convey  to  the  captain  of  the 
Plover.  "  IlicnAUD  Coi-li^'Son. 

"  To  Commander  ^PClure^  of  her 
MajemUfs  s/tij)  '  Investigator.^ 

"  Should  it  be  the  opinion  of  Commander  Moore  that 
the  services  of  the  Investigator's  ship's  company  in  ex- 
l)loring  parties  during  the  spring  would  l)e  attended 
with  material  beneiit  to  the  objec*;  of  the  expedition, 
he  will,  notwithstanding  these  orders,  detain  you  for 
that  purpose  ;  but  care  must  be  taken  that  your  ctti- 
ciency  as  a  sailing  vessel  is  not  crijipled  by  the  parties 
not  returning  in  time  for  the  opening  of  the  sea. 

"  R.  0." 


"  ITer  Majesty''s  discovery  ship  '  Investigator^^  July 
28,  1850.  KotzcJme  Sound,  latitude  60°  51'  ]S\ 
longitude  108°  IF. 

"  Sir, —  I  have  the  honor  to  acquaint  yon,  for  the  in- 
formation of  tlie  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admi- 
ralty, that  to  this  date  we  have  had  a  most  excellent 
run.  Upon  j^etting  clear  of  Oahn,  on  the  morning  of 
tlie  5th,  we  shaped  a  course  direct  for  tlie  Aleutian 
group,  passing  them  in  172°  40'  AV.,  upon  the  evening 
of  the  20th  ;  continued  our  course  with  a  line  south- 
easterly breeze,  but  extremely  tliick  and  foggy  Aveather, 
(which  retarded  the  best  of  our  way  being  made.)  Got 
fairly  out  of  Behring's  Strait  upon  the  evening  of  the 


VOYAGK   OF   THE    TLOVKK,  lOlC. 


307 


but 


m- 


ri  « 


27tl»,  and  are  now  in  a  fair  way  of  realizing  tlieir  Lord- 
BJiips'  expoetations  of  rcachin*^  tho  ice  by  tiio  be<;*in- 
ning  of  August,  our  pro<»;reHS  being  advanced  by  tho 
favorable  circunistanceB  of  a  fine  Houtiicrly  wind  and 
tolerably  clear  weathei*.  The  latter  we  have  known 
nothing  of  since  tlio  10th,  which,  I  can  assure  you,  ren- 
dered the  navigation  among  the  islands  a  subject  of 
much  and  deep  anxiety,  seldom  liaving  a  horizon  abovo 
480  yards,  that  just  enabled  the  dark  outline  of  the  land 
to  be  observed  and  avoided. 

"  It  is  witli  much  satisfaction  that  I  report  the  good 
qualities  of  this  vessel,  having  well  tried  her  in  tho 
heavy  gales  experienced  during  five  weeks  off  ('apo 
Horn,  and  in  moderate  weather  among  the  intricate 
navigation  of  these  islands,  where  so  nmch  depended 
upon  her  quick  obedience  to  tho  helm,  although  lade« 
with  every  species  of  stores  and  provisions  for  upward 
of  three  years.  From  these  circumstances  I  am,  there- 
fore, fully  satisfied  she  is  as  thoroughly  adapted  for  this 
service  as  could  be  reasonably  wished. 

"  I  have  not  seen  any  thing  of  the  Enterprise,  nor  is 
it  my  intention  to  lose  a  moment  by  waiting  off  Cape 
Lisburne,  but  shall  use  my  best  endeavors  to  carry  out 
the  intentions  contained  in  my  letter  of  the  20th,  of 
which  I  earnestly  trust  their  Lordships  Mill  approve. 

"  I  am  happy  to  be  able  to  state  that  the  whole  crew 
are  in  excellent  health  and  spirits,  and  every  tiling  as 
satisfactory  as  it  is  possible  to  desii'e. 

"  I  have,  etc., 
"  Robert  M'Clure,  Commander. 

"  The  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty.'''' 

Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  "  Pi^over,"  and  Boat  ExncDrnoNS. 
UNDER  Commander  Pullex,  1S4S-51. 

In  tlie  copy  of  the  instructions  issued  from  the  Ad- 
miralty to  Lieutenant,  (now  Commander,)  Moore,  of 
the  Plover,  dated  3d  of  January,  1848,  hz  was  directed 
to  make  the  best  of  his  way  to  Petro]>aulowski,  touch- 
ing at  Panama,  where  she  was  to  be  joiiied  bv  II.  M. 
'  i4  ■  '' 


m 


m 
m 

$.■■(■4 

m 


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I'KOOUKSS    OK    AU(  lie    lUSroVKUY. 


# 


i 


: 


S.  IUtjiM,  jumI  affi'i'ward  hotli  vesscl.s  wore  to  procccil 
to  lU'liriii^jj's  Stniit,  wlirro  tln-v  wiM'o  oxju'cti'd  tu  arrive 
al)out  tlu'  \>t  of  .lulv,  aiiil  tlnMi  j»isli  aloiii;  tlio  Anu-rl- 
caii  coast,  as  tar  as  pussiltic,  coiisistt'iit  witli  tlu*  cci'- 
taiiitv  of  prt'Vi'iitiiiii;  tlic  ships  Ikmiiij;  lu'sct  hy  the  ice. 
Till'  I'lovor  was  tlu'ii  to  lu'  scciirtMl  tor  tlio  wiiitiT  in 
Homi'  sail'  ami  convoiiii'iit  |K»rt  tVom  wIkmico  hoat  j>ar- 
tios  nil«j;lit  be  (lispatcluMJ,  ami  tlu'  lU'niM  was  to  ivtnrii 
and  transmit,  tua  I'anania,  any  intv!li<;('nc'o  nccossary 
to  Fini2;lan(l.  (Jrcat  caution  was  ordered  t(>  he  ohscrved 
in  connnnnicatiiiu:  with  the  nativi>s  in  the  neijjjhlMtrJHKxl 
of  Kot/ehne  ISonnd,  should  that  ([narti'r  he  visited,  M 
the  ]»eo]»le  in  that  part  of  the  conntry  dilfer  in  charac- 
ter from  tlie  ordinary  Kscpiimnnx,  in  ])ein^  compara- 
tively a  tierce,  an'ile,  and  suspicious  race,  well  armed 
with  knives,  tVre.,  for  olfense,  and  prone  to  attack. 
They  wore  jdso  t)rdei*ed  to  take  int(M'preters  or  jj^uides 
fn)m  a  small  factory  of  the  liussian-Americun  Comi)any 
in  Norton  Sound. 

The  Plover  was  safelv  ensconced  for  tlio  winter  of 
184!)-r»0  in  Kotzehne  Sound,  after  the  termination  of  a 
liard  season's  work.  She  had,  conjointly  with  the  Her- 
ald, discovered  to  the  north  of  I'ehriiiii-'s  Strait,  two 
islands,  and  several  appari'iitly  disconnected  ])atches 
of  very  eU'vated  ii-numd.  Lii-ut.  l^ullen  had  ]>ri'viously 
quitted  her  ott'  NVainwriii-ht  Inlet,  with  four  boats,  for 
tJie  ])nrposo  of  iM'osecuting  his  advt'nturous  voyaj»'o 
alono-  the  coast  to  the  month  of  the  ]\[ackenzio  Kiver, 
Avhere  he  arrived  safelv  on  the  2(lth  of  Anijust,  after  a 
perilous  navigation  of  thirty-two  days,  but  had  obtained 
no  clue  or  intellinjence  re<2;ardin<jj  the  ])rime  object  of  his 
expedition.  At  a  later  date  he  encountered  at  Fort 
Simpson,  higher  up  the  river,  Dr.  llae,  and  gathered 
from  that  ovntleman  that  the  party  led  by  him  down 
the  Co]>permine,  with  tht^  view  of  crossing  over  to  Vic 
toria  or  AVollaston  Land,  had.  owing  to  the  unusual 
ditHeulties  created  by  the  moie  than  eustomarv  riijor  of 
the  season,  met  with  entire  fail i  re  ;  the  farthest  point 
attained  being  Cape  Krusenstern. 

Lieut.  Pullen  is  occupied  during  the  present  year  in 


I 


VOi'AOr-;    OK   TIIK    IM.OVKU,  KTO. 


3oa 


IV  IT, 

r  ;i 
n(>(l 

iiis 
V>rt 
red 

)\V11 

iVic 

SUlll 

rot' 
oint 

■r  ill 


n  jonrnoy  tVctin  tlic  tinMifli  (.('  tlic  Afiu'kt'n/.ii!  oai^funnl, 
iili'i  u'tlu'  luetic  ('(ijisf,  as  tUr  as  ('a|K'  J'utliurst,  and  ihis 
liciii;^  su('i;c's>riili}'  uc('uiiij»lis|M'(|,  lu;  i)iir|iosi's  attciiipt- 
iiiH'  to  croKH  the  iiitt'rvoiiiii<r  spaco  to  liaiiks'  J.uiid.  llo 
is  t'lii'iiislii'd  with  two  huats,  Itotli  o[h'M. 

Lii'iit.  W.  II.  Ilnitpcr,  one  of  tlio  party,  in  a  recent 
letter  to  liis  father  in  l.oiKhm,  writin;^  fi'oni  (JreatSlavo 
l.ai<e,  ujid(>r  (hitt;  .hine  27,  I S.')0,  ogives  some  fnrtimr  de- 
tail^4  of  their  proceeflinirs.  IIjiviii<r  hm\  consi(h'ral'lo 
tronhli'  and  a  siii^ht  slxii'inisii  with  sonio  ])arties  of  J']s- 
([uinianx,  they  were  oMii!:i'<l  to  he  continually  on  tlio 
watch.  At  tlie  end  of  Aui^ust,  the  pJ'.rty  entered  tho 
J\racken/,iii  Itiver,  and  in  a  few  days  reached  one  of  tho 
Hudson's  l>ay  (>(»in|)any'H  j)osts  on  tlui  Peel  Uiver.  a 
branch  of  the  JNIackenzie,  where  Commander  J 'alien 
left  Lieut.  llooj)er  and  half  the  |)arty  to  winter,  while 
ho  |)roceede(l  farther  up  the  river  to  a  more  important 
]>ost  at  Fort  Simpson.  After  remainin'jj  at  J*eelV  River 
station  about  a  fortni<::lit,  Mr.  Hooper  t'oimd  that  his 
party  could  not  he  maintained  throu^^-hout  the  winter 
there,  and  in  consecjuen  -e  determined  on  followin^^ 
Capt.  Pnllen,  hut  was  only  able  to  reaeh  FoJ-t  Xoi-man, 
one  of  1ms  party  beiiiiij  frost-bitten  on  the  journey. 
They  thence  made  their  way  across  to  (ireat  JJear  Lake, 
where  they  passed  the  winter,  subsisting  on  fish  and 
water.  Dr.  Itae  arrived  there  as  soon  as  the  ice  bioko 
lip,  and  the  ]>arty  ])roceeded  with  him  to  Fort  Simpson. 

On  the  20th  of  June,  Connnander  Pullen  and  all  his 
party  left  with  the  comi)any's  servants,  and  the  stock  of 
fui's,  on  their  way  to  tho  sea,  to  embark  for  England, 
when  they  were  met,  on  tho  25th,  by  a  canoo  with  Ad- 
miralty dispatches,  which  caused  them  to  retrace  their 
steps  ;  and  they  are  now  on  their  route  by  the  Clreat 
Slave  Lake  to  Fort  Sim])Son,  and  down  the  IVIackenzie 
once  more,  to  the  Polar  Sea,  in  search  of  Sir  John 
Franklin. 

"However  griGvini;,"  Lieut.  Hooper  adds,  "it  is  to 
be  disappointed  of  returninj^  home,  yet  I  am  neverthe- 
less deliijjhted  to  go  again,  and  think  that  we  do  not 
liopolessly  undertake  another  search,  since  our  intended 


wit  ^ 

'■■■■11 


i 


310 


PROGRESS    OF   AKCTrC   DISCOVERY. 


diroction  is  corisidiTod  tlie  most  probable  channel  for 
tiiiding  tlie  iiiif^sin^;  slii[)8  or  crews.  We  go  down  tlie 
^lackcii/Je,  along  the  coast  eastward  to  l*oint  Bathnrst, 
and  thence  strike  across  to  AVullaston  or  Banks'  Land. 
The  season  will,  of  course,  much  iniinenceour  proceed- 
ings ;  but  we  shall  i)robably  ret'U'n  np  the  hitherto 
nnex[)lored  river  which  rnns  into  the  Arctic  Ocean 
from  Liverpool  Bay,  between  the  Coppermine  and 
Mackenzie." 

Tile  latest  official  dispatch  from  Commander  Pullen 
is  dated  Great  Slave  Lake,  June  28th.  lie  had  been 
sto])ped  by  the  ice,  and  intended  retnrning  to  Fort 
Simpson  on  the  20th.  One  of  his  boats  was  so  battered, 
about  as  to  be  ])erfectly  nseless  ;  he  intended  patching 
np  the  other,  and  was  also  to  receive  a  new  boat  be- 
longing to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com])any,  from  Fort 
Simpson.  He  had  dismissed  two  of  his  party,  as  they 
were  both  snft'ering  from  bad  health,  bnt  proposed  en- 
gtiging,  at  Fort  Good  Hope,  two  Hare  Indians  as  hnnt- 
ers  and  gnides,  one  of  whom  had  accompanied  Messrs. 
Dease  and  Simpson  on  their  trips  of  discovery  in  1838 
and  1839.  This  wonld  augment  the  party  to  seventeen 
persons  in  all. 

'*  My  present  intentions,"  he  says,  "  are  to  proceed 
down  the  JSlackenzie,  along  the  coast,  to  Cape  Bathnrst, 
and  then  strike  ticross  for  Banks'  Land  ;  my  operations 
must  then,  of  course  be  gnided  by  circnmstances,  but  I 
shall  strenuously  endeavor  to  search  along  all  coasts  in 
that  direction  as  far  and  as  late  as  I  can  with  safety 
ventnre  ;  retnrning,  if  possible,  by  the  Mackenzie,  or 
by  the  I'eghoola,  which  the  Indians  speak  of  as  being 
navigable,  as  its  head  waters  are,  (according  to  Sir  John 
Richardson,)  only  a  nine-days'  jiassage  from  Fort  Good 
Hope  ;  to  meet  which,  or  a  similar  contingency,  Ltako 
snow  shoes  and  sledges,  &:c. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  beg  to  assnre  their  Lordships  of 
my  earnest  determination  to  carry  ont  their  views  to 
the  ntmost  of  my  ability,  being  confident,  from  the 
eagerness  of  the  party,  that  no  jiains  will  be  spared,  no 
necessary  labor  avoided,  and,  by  God's  blessing,  we 


VOYAOE   OF   THE   rLOVEK,    ETO. 


311 


mcl  for 
wii  t.lio 
itlnirst, 
'  Land, 
roceod- 
lithorto 
Ocetiii 
no  and 

Pillion 
id  been 
to  Fort 
jattered 
•atcliing 
)oat  be- 
>m  Fort 
as  they 
oscd  en- 
as  hiint- 
MessrtJ. 
in  1838 
venteen 

proceed 
atlmrst, 
orations 
,  l)nt  I 
oasts  in 
1  sat'etv 
■nzie,  or 
IS  being 
V\r  John 
rt  Good 
,  Ltako 

injDS  of 

liews  to 

lorn  the 

ircd,  no 

Ing,  we 


hope  to  be  successful  in  discovering  some  tidings  of  our 
gallant  countrymen,  or  even  in  restoring  them  to  their 
native  land  aiul  anxious  relatives." 

Mr.  Cliief  Factor  Kae  was  about  to  follow  Coni- 
niandcfr  FuUen  and  his  party  from  Portage  La  Loche. 

Dr.  Richardson  observes  that  "  Commander  Pullen 
will  require  to  be  fully  victualed  for  at  least  120  days 
from  the  20th  of  July,  when  he  may  be  expected  to 
connnence  his  sea  voyage  ;  which,  for  sixteen  men,  will 
re(]uire  forty -live  bags  of  pemmican  of  90  lbs.  each. 
This  is  exclusive  of  a  further  supply  wliich  ho  ought  to 
take  for  the  relief  of  any  of  Franklin's  people  he  may 
have  tlie  good  fortune  to  find.  After  he  leaves  the 
main-land  at  Cape  Bathurst,  he  would  have  no  chance 
of  killino*  deer  till  he  makes  Banks'  Land,  or  some  in- 
tervening  island  ;  and  he  must  provide  for  the  chance 
of  being  caught  on  the  floe  ice,  and  having  to  nuike  his 
way  across  by  the  very  tedious  jjortages,  as  fnlly  de- 
scribed by  Sir  AV.  E.  Parry  in  the  narative  of  his  most 
adventurous  boat  voyage  north  of  S])itzbergen. 

"  Mr.  Eae  can  give  Connnander  Pullen  the  fullest 
informiition  respecting  the  depots  of  pemmican  made 
on  the  coast. 

"  With  respect  to  Commander  Pullen's  return  from 
sea,  his  safest  plan  will  be  to  make  for  the  Mackenzie ; 
but  sliouhl  circumstances  place  that  out  of  his  power, 
the  only  other  course  that  seems  to  me  to  be  practicable 
is  for  him  to  ascend  a  large  river  which  falls  into  the 
l)ottom  of  Liverpool  Bay,  to  the  westward  of  Ca])P  Ba- 
thurst. This  river,  which  is  named  the  I'egloola  Dcssy 
by  tlie  Indians,  runs  parallel  to  the  Mackenzit^,  and  in 
the  latitude  of  Fort  Good  Hope,  {m°  30'  X.,)  is  not 
abova  live  or  six  days'  journey  from  that  ])ost.  Hare 
Indians,  belonging  to  Fort  Good  Hope,  might  be  en- 
gaged  to  hunt  on  the  banks  of  tlie  river  till  the  arrival 
of  the  party.  Tlie  navigation  of  the  rivei'is  unknown  ; 
but  even  should  Commander  Pullen  be  compelled  to 
quit  his  boats,  his  Indian  hunters,  (of  wliich  he  should 
at  least  engage  two  for  his  sea  voyage,)  will  siippprt 
and  guide  his  party.  AVood  and  animals  are  most  cer- 
tainly found  on  the  banks  of  rivers. 


^^^^ 


t-iit 


...■'  Ht '' 


t- 


$■1 
m 


'■'*C 


312 


PKOGRESS   OF  AKCTIC   DISCOVEIiY. 


■tHpb" 


"It  is  not  likely  thut  under  any  circumstances  Com- 
mander Fallen  should  desire  to  reach  the  Mackenzie 
by  way  of  the  Coppermine  Iliver,  and  this  could  bo 
effected  only  by  a  boat  being  placed  at  Dease  ]iiver, 
for  the  transport  of  the  party  over  Great  Bear  Lake. 
This  would  require  to  be  arranged  previously  with 
Mr.  Rae  ;  and  Commander  PuUen  should  not  bo 
later  in  arriving  at  Fort  Confidence  than  the  end  of 
September." 

VOTAGE     OF    TEm     "  LaDY    FeANKLIN  "   AND   "  SoPHIA," 

Government  Vessels,  under  the  cosimand  of  Mk. 
Penny,  1850-51. 

A  vessel  of  230  tons,  named  the  Lady  Franklin,  fit- 
ted out  at  Aberdeen,  with  a  new  brig  as  a  tender,  built 
at  Dundee,  and  named  the  Sophia,  in  honor  of  Miss 
S.  Cracroft,  the  beloved  and  attached  niece  of  Lady 
Franklin,  and  one  of  the  most  anxious  watchers  for 
tidings  of  the  long  missing  adventurers,  were  purchased 
by  the  government  last  year. 

The  charge  of  this  expedition  was  intrusted  to  Cap- 
tain Penny,  formerly  commanding  the  Advice  whaler, 
and  who  has  had  much  experience  in  the  icy  seas,  hav- 
ing been  engaged  twenty-eight  years,  since  the  age  of 
twelve,  in  the  whaling  trade,  and  in  command  of  ves- 
sels for  fourteen  years  ;  Mr.  Stewart  was  placed  in 
charge  of  the  Sophia. 

The  crew  of  the  Lady  Franklin  number  twenty-five, 
and  tliat  of  the  Sophia,  twenty,  all  picked  men. 

These  ships  sailed  on  the  12th  of  April,  1850,  pro- 
visioned and  stored  for  three  years.  They  were  pro- 
vided with  a  printing  press,  and  every  appliance  to 
relieve  the  tedium  of  a  long  sojourn  in  the  icy  regions. 

In  the  instructions  issued  by  the  Admiralty,  it  is 
stated  that  in  accepting  Captain  Parrj^'s  oft'er  of  service, 
regard  has  been  had  to  his  long  experience  in  arctic 
navigation,  and  to  the  great  attention  he  has  paid  to 
the  subject  of  the  missing  ships. 

He  was  left  in  a  great  measure  to  the  exercise  of  his 


VOYAGE  OF  TIIPJ  IiP:SOLUTE  AKD  ASSISTANCE,  ETC.      313 


5) 


'Avn  jiidginent  and  discretion,  in  combining  the  most 
active  and  energetic  search  atiter  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
with  a  strict  and  careful  regard  to  the  safety  of  tlie 
ships  and  tlieir  crews  under  his  cliarge.  He  was  di- 
rected to  examine  Jones'  Sound  at  the  liead  of  BatKn's 
Vyny^  and  if  possible,  penetrate  through  to  tlie  Parry- 
Islands  ;  failing  ill  this,  he  was  to  try  Wellington  Strait, 
and  endeavor  to  rea  ''  Melville  Island.  He  was  to  use 
his  utmost  ende;i\<>is,  (consistent  with  the  safety  of  the 
lives  of  those  intrusted  to  his  command,)  to  succor,  ia 
tiie  summer  of  1850,  the  party  under  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, taking  carp  to  secure  his  winter-quarters  in  good 
time  ;  and  2dly,  the  same  active  measures  were  to  be 
used  in  the  summer  of  1851,  to  secure  tlie  return  of  the 
ships  under  his  charge  to  this  country. 

The  Lady  Franklin  was  off  Cape  York,  in  Baffin's 
Bay,  on  the  13th  of  August.  From  thence  she  pro- 
ceeded, in  company  with  H.  M.  S.  Assistance,  to  Wol- 
stenholme  Sound.  Slie  afterward,  in  accordance  with 
her  instructions,  crossed  over  to  the  west  with  the  in- 
tention of  examining  Jones'  Sound,  but  owing  to  the 
accumulation  of  ice,  Avas  unable  to  a])proach  it  within 
twenty-five  miles.  This  was  at  midnight  on  the  18th. 
She,  therefore,  continued  her  voyage  to  Lancaster 
Sound,  and  onward  to  Wellington  Channel,  where  she 
was  seen  by  Commander  Forsyth,  of  the  Prince  Albert, 
on  the  25th  of  August,  with  her  tender,  and  II.  M.  S. 
Assistance  in  company,  standing  toward  Cape  Ilotham. 


Voyage  of  II.  M.  Sriirs  "  Resolute  "  and  "  Assistance," 
WITH  the  Steam i:ks  "Pionekk"  and  "Intkepid" 
AS  Tenders,  undek  command  of  Captain  Austin, 
1850-51. 

Two  fine  teak-built  ships  of  al)Out  500  tons  each,  the 
Baboo  and  Ptarmigan,  whose  names  were  altered  to 
the  Assistance  and  Resolute,  "were  purchn^cd  ly  the 
government  in  1850,  and  sent  to  the  naval  yards  to  be 
properly  fitted  for  the  voyage  to  t1u'  polar  regions. 

Two  screw-propeller  steamers,  intended  to  accompany 


m 
M 


'A'i.iOl 


"■'''1'i 

'^l 


314 


riiOGKESS   OF   AECTIC   DISCOVEUY. 


tliese  vessels  us  stesim  tenders,  were  also  purchased  and 
similarly  fitted  ;  their  luuiies  were  changed  from  the 
Eider  and  Free  Trade  to  the  Pioneer  and  Intrepid. 

The  command  of  this  expedition  was  intrnsted  to 
Captain  Horatio  T.  Austin,  C.  B.,  who  was  first  Lieu- 
tenant of  the  Fury,  under  Commander  IJoppner,  in 
Captain  Sir  E.  Parry's  third  voyage,  in  1824-25.  The 
vessels  were  provisioned  for  three  years,  and  their  at- 
tention was  also  directed  to  tiie  de})ots  of  stores  lodged 
by  Sir  James  Ross  at  Leopold  Island,  and  at  Navy 
Board  Inlet  by  the  North  Star.  The  ships  sailetl  in 
May,  1850.  l^he  officers  employed  in  them  were  as 
follows  : — 

Resolute. 

Captain  —  Horatio  T.  Austin,  C.  B. 

Lieutenants  —  R.  D.  Aidrich,  and  W.  II.  J.  Browne. 

Mates  —  R.  B.  Pearse,  and  W.  M.  May. 

Purser  —  J.  E.  Brooman. 

Surgeon  —  A.  R.  Bi'adford. 

Assistant,  ditto—  Richard  King. 

Midshi])men  ■ —  C.  Bullock,  J.  P.  Cheyne. 

Second  Master  —  G.  F.  M'Dougall. 

Total  complement,  GO  men. 

Pioneer^  screw  steamer. 

Lieut.-Commandin^  —  Sherard  Osborn. 
Second  Master  —  J.  IT.  Allard. 
Assistant-Surgeon  —  F.  R.  Picthorn, 

Assistance. 
Captain  —  E.  Ommaney. 
Lieutenants  —  J.  E.  Elliot,  F.  L.  M'Clintock,  and 

G.  F.  Mecham. 
Surgeon  —  J.  J.  L.  Donnett. 
Assistant,  ditto — J.  "Ward,  {a.) 
Mates  —  R.  Y.  Hamilton,  and  J.  R.  Keane. 
Clerk  in  Charge — E.  N.  Harrison. 
Second  Master — "VY.  B.  Shellabear. 
Midshipman  —  C.  R.  Markham. 

Total  complement,  GO  men. 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  RESOLUTE  AND  ASSISTANCE,  ETC      315 


Intrepid^  screw  steamer. 
Lieiit.-Communder — B.  Cater.  ' 

Each  of  the  tenders  had  a  crew  of  30  men. 

Two  ot  the  officers  a])pointed  to  this  expedition,  Lieu- 
tenants Browne  and  M'Oiintock,  were  in  the  Enterprise 
under  Captain  Sir  James  C.  Hoss  in  1848. 

Tiio  Emma  Eugenia  tran^iport  was  dispatched  in  ad- 
vance with  provisions  to  the  Whale-Fish  Islands,  to  await 
the  arrival  of  the  expedition. 

It  having  been  suggested  by  some  parties  that  Sir 
Jolm  Franklin  might  have  effected  his  passage  to  Mel- 
ville Island,  and  been  detained  there  with  his  ships, 
or  that  the  ships  might  have  been  damaged  l)y  the  ice 
in  the  neighboring  sea,  and  that  with  his  crews  he  had 
abandonecl  them  and  made  his  escape  to  tliat  island, 
Ca]>tain  Austin  was  specially  instructed  to  use  every 
exertion  to  reach  this  island,  fletaching  a  portion  of  his 
ships  to  search  the  shores  of  Wellington  Channel  and 
the  coast  about  Cape  Walker,  to  which  point  Sir  John 
Franklin  was  ordered  to  proceed. 

Advices  were  first  received  from  the  Assistance,  after 
her  departure,  dated  5th  of  July ;  she  was  then  making 
her  way  to  the  northward.  The  season  was  less  favor- 
able fur  exploring  operations  than  on  many  previous 
years.  But  little  ice  had  been  met  with  in  Davis' 
Strait,  where  it  is  generally  found  in  large  quantities, 
Bo  that  obstacles  of  a  serious  nature  may  be  expected 
to  the  northward.  Penny's  ships  had  been  in  company 
with  them. 

Ice  is  an  insurmountable  barrier  to  rapid  progress ; 
fbrtilications  may  be  breached,  but  huge  masses  of  ice, 
200  to  000  feet  high,  are  not  to  be  overcome. 

On  the  2d  of  July  the  Assistance  was  towed  beneath 
a  perpendicular  cliff  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Shackle- 
ton,  rising  to  the  height  of  1500  feet,  which  was  ob- 
served to  ho,  crowded  with  the  foolish  guillemots,  ( Uria 
troile.)  When  the  ship  hooked  on  to  an  iceberg  for  the 
night,  a  party  sent  on  shore  for  the  purpose  brought  off 
200  l)ir(ls  and  al)out  twenty  dozen  of  their  eggs.  These 
bir>1s  only  lay  ont^  egg  each.      ,.^ 


m 

'■M 


■sa 


I 


310 


I'KOCJRKSS    OV   AUOTIC    DlSCOVKliY. 


» 


:l! 


The  followiiiiif  odicial  dispatch  luis  boon  since  reccivctl 
from  Captain  Oinuuuioy  : — 

"//cv  J/rc/tw/'y'.v  fihfp  '"Assistance^  ojf  Lancaster  Sound, 
latitude  75"  40'  iV^.,  loiKjitude  16"  40'  W.,  August 
17,  1850. 

"Silt, —  I  liavo  tlie  honor  to  acqnaint  yon,  for  the  in- 
formation of  tlio  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  A(hni- 
ralty,  that  her  Majesty's  sliip  Assistance,  and  lier  tender, 
her  ^lajesty's  steam-vessel  Intrepid,  l)ave  this  day  suc- 
ceeded in  eifecting  a  p.'issagc  across  to  the  west  water, 
and  are  now  proceedin<ij  to  Lancaster  Sonnd.  OlKcers 
and  crews  all  well,  with  fine  clear  weatlnn-,  and  open 
water  as  far  as  can  be  seen. 

"  Agreeably  with  instructions  received  from  Captain 
II.  Austin,  we  parted  company  on  the  15th  instant,  at 
one  A.  M.,  oif  Cape  Dudley  Biggs,  as  the  ice  was  then 
sutliciently  open  to  anticipate  no  farther  obstruction  in 
eifecting  the  nortli  passage.  He  was  anxious  to  proceed 
to  Pond's  Bay,  and  thence  take  up  the  examination  along 
the  soutli  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound,  leaving  me  to 
ascertain  the  truth  of  a  report  obtained  from  tlie  Esqui- 
maux at  Capo  York  respecting  some  sliip  or  ships  hav- 
ing been  seen  near  AVolstenhohne  Island,  after  which  to 
proceed  to  the  north  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound  and 
Wellington  Channel. 

"  On  passing  Cape  York,  (the  14th  inst.,)  natives  were 
seen.  By  the  directions  of  Captain  Austin  I  landed, 
and  communicated  with  tliem,  when  we  were  informed 
that  they  had  seen  a  ship  in  that  neighborhood  in  the 
spring,  and  that  she  was  housed  in.  Upon  this  intelli- 
gence I  shipped  one  of  the  natives,  who  volunteered  to 
join  us  as  interpreter  and  guide. 

"  On  parting  with  Captain  Austin  we  proceeded 
toward  AVolstenholme  Island,  where  I  left  the  ship  and 
proceeded  in  lier  Majesty's  steam- vessel  Intrepid  into 
Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  by  the  guidance  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, succeeded  in  finding  a  bay  about  thirteen  miles 
further  in,  and  sheltered  by  a  prominent  headland.  In 
the  cairns  erected  here  we  found  a  document  stating 


VOYAGl';   OF  THE  Ui:KOLL"n';    AM)   ASHISTAJ;iCE,  ETC.    317 


to 


that  the  North  Star  liad  ^villtered  in  the  bay,  a  copy 
of  whicli  1  liavc  tlic  honor  to  transmit  to  their  Lord- 
bliipH. 

"  J'rovious  to  Kearcliin*^  tlie  Kj)ot  wlioro  tlic  Nortli  Star 
wintered,  I  examined  the  deserted  Ks(|iiimaux  settle- 
ment. At  this  s])ot  we  fonnd  evident  traces  of  somo 
shij)  havinjj;  i)een  in  the  neighborhood,  from  empty  pre- 
served meat  canisters  and  some  chjthes  left  near  a  pool 
of  water,  marked  with  tlie  name  of  a  corporal  belonging 
to  the  North  Star. 

••'  Having  {i:'certaincd  tliis  satisfactory  information,  I 
returned  to  Wolstenholme  Ishmd,  where  a  document  was 
deposited  recording  oin*  proceedings.  At  (>  A.  m.,  of  the 
10th  inst,  1  rejoined  tiie  shij),  and  proceeded  at  two  to 
the  westward,  and  am  haj)py  to  inform  you  tliat  the 
passage  across  iuis  been  nuuk;  without  obstruction,  tow- 
ing througli  loose  and  stragiiling  ice. 

"  The  expedition  was  beset  in  Melville  Bay,  sur- 
rounded by  heavy  and  extensive  iloes  of  ice,  from  the 
11th  of  July  to  the  Dtli  of  August,  1850,  when,  after 
great  exertion,  a  release  was  effected,  and  we  succeeded 
in  reaching  Cape  York  by  continuing  along  the  edge  of 
tl»o  land-ice,  after  which  we  have  Ijeen  favored  with 
plenty  of  water. 

"  Captain  Penny's  expeu'tion  was  in  company  during 
the  most  part  of  the  time  while  in  Melville  Bay,  and  up 
to  the  14th  inst.,  when  we  left  him  olf  Cape  Dudley 
Diggs  —  all  well. 

"  In  crossing  Melville  Bay  we  fell  in  with  Sir  John 
Boss  and  C.iptain  Forsyth's  expeditions.  These  Capt. 
Austin  has  assisted  by  towing  them  toward  their  desti- 
nations. The  latter  proceeded  with  him,  and  the  former 
has  remained  with  us. 

"  Having  placed  Sir  John  Boss  in  a  fair  way  of 
reaching  Lancaster  Sound,  with  a  fair  wind  and  open 
water,  his  vessel  has  been  cast  off  in  this  position.  I 
shall,  therefore,  proceed  with  all  dispatch  to  the  exami- 
nation of  the  north  shores  of  Lancaster  Sound  and 
Wellington  Channel,  according  to  Captain  Austin's 
directions. 


018 


naxTiiKss  ov  AKtrrio  discoveuy. 


"  I  liiivo  tlio  liuiiur  to  be,  Sir,  your  most  obedient 
liuiiible  Berviuit. 

"  Erasmus  0]MaiANEY,  Captain.'" 

The  Hcsolnto  syot  elefir  of  tlu;  Orkneys  on  tlie  IHtli  of 
May,  and  arrived  with  lier  consort  and  tlie  two  tenders 
at  the  AVliale-Fis^li  Islands  on  tlic  .14tli  of  June. 

Tlie  Kesoluto  was  in  Possession  liay  on  the  ITtli  of 
Au<^ust.  From  thence  lier  ])ro]>osed  course  was  a]o?i<5 
the  coast,  northwai'd  and  westward,  to  AVhaler  Point, 
situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  Port  Leopold,  and 
afterward  to  Melville  Island. 

In  order  toannise  tliems(>lvcs  and  their  comrades,  tlie 
officers  of  the  Assistance  had  started  a  MS.  newspaper, 
under  the  name  of  t)ie  "Aurora  Borealis."  Many  of 
my  readers  M'ill  have  lieard  of  the  "  Cockjiit  Herald," 
and  such  other  productions  of  former  days,  in  his  Majes- 
ty'^s  lleet.  Parry,  too,  liad  Ids  journal  to  beguile  the 
long  hours  of  the  tedious  arctic  winter. 

1  have  seen  copies  of  this  novel  specimen  of  tbo 
"fourtli  estate,"  dated  Baffin's  Bay,  June,  1850,  in  which 
thei'c  is  a  hap])y  mixture  of  grave  and  gay,  prose  and 
verse  ;  numerous  very  fair  acrostics  are  published.  I 
aj^pend,  by  way  of  curiosity,  a  couple  of  extracts  : — 

"  "What  insect  that  Koah  had  with  him,  were  these 
regions  named  after? — The  arc-tic." 

"  To  the  editor  of  the  Aurora  Borealis. 

"Sm, —  Having  heard  from  an  arctic  voyager  that  he 
has  seen  '  crows'-nests'  in  tliose  icy  regions,  I  beg  to 
inquire  through  your  columns,  if  they  are  built  by  the 
crows,  {CorvKJ^  tinfJnnahulus^)  which  Goodsir  states  to 
utter  a  metallic  bell-like  croak?  My  fast  friend  begs 
me  to  inquire  when  rook  shooting  commences  in  those 
diggings  ?  *^ 

"  A  !N'atueatjst. 

["  "We  would  recommend  to  *  A  iN'aturalist '  a  visit  to 
these  '  crows'-nests,'  which  do  exist  in  the  arctic  regions. 
We  would   also  advise  his  fast  friend   to  investio-ato 


he 

to 

tlie 

to 


V       >y-'l-r^^'^%^ 


6 


VI 

o 
r! 


H 

i 

O 


S 


■■>:> 


'•'■■it 


'61, 


VOYAGE  OF  SIR  JOHN    liOSS   IN  THE  FELIX,   ETC.    319 

tbcso  said  nests  more  thoroiipjlily ;  ho  would  find  tlicMU 
tonjinted  by  very  old  birds  (ica  quarter-masters,)  who 
would  not  ordy  inform  liim  as  to  the  species  of  crows 
and  the  sporting  season,  but  would  give  them  a  fair 
chance  of  showing  him  how  a  pigeon  may  be  plucked. 
—  Editor."] 

VoYAOK  OF  Captain  Sir  John  Ross  in  the  "Felix" 

PRIVATE  SCUOONER,    1850-51. 

In  April,  1850,  Captain  Sir  John  Ross  having  vol- 
unteered his  services  to  proceed  in  the  search,  was  en- 
abled, by  the  liberality  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com})any, 
who  contributed  500^.,  and  public  subscription,  to  leave 
England  in  the  Felix  schooner,  of  120  tons,  with  a 
picked  crew,  and  accompanied  by  Commander  C.  Ger- 
vans  rhillips,  R.  N.  She  also  had  the  Mary,  Sir  John's 
own  yacht  of  twelve  tons,  as  a  tender.  Mr.  Abernethy 
proceeded  as  ice-master,  having  accompanied  Sir  John 
in  his  former  voyage  to  Boothia;  and  Mr.  Sivewright 
was  mate  of  the  Felix.  The  vessels  sailed  from  Scot- 
land on  the  23d  of  May,  and  reached  Ilolsteinborg  in 
June,  where  Captain  Ross  succeeded  in  obtaining  a 
Danish  interpreter  who  understood  the  Esquimaux 
language ;  he  then  proceeded  on,  calling  at  the  Whale- 
Fish  Islands,  and  passing  northway  through  the  Way- 
gatt  Strait,  overtook,  on  the  10th  of  August,  li.  M. 
ships  Assistance  and  Resolute,  with  their  tenders  the 
Intrepid  and  Pioneer,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Austin. 

On  the  ISth  of  August,  Captain  Ommaney  in  the 
Assistance,  and  Sir  John  Ross  in  the  Felix,  being 
somewhere  off  Cape  York,  observed  three  male  Es- 
quimaux on  the  ice  close  by,  and  with  these  peoj^le 
it  was  prudently  resolved  to  communicate.  Accord- 
ingly, Lieutenant  Cator  in  the  intrepid  steamer,  tender 
to  the  Assistance,  and  Commander  Phillips  in  the 
whale-boat  of  the  Felix,  put  off  on  this  service.  The 
Intrepid's  people  arrived  first,  but  apparently  without 
any  means  of  expressing  their  desires,  so  that  when  the 


H\ 

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320 


ruooiJKss  OK  Aitcric  discovijuv. 


boat  ot'tho  Felix,  contsiiiilnc;  an  Eaiiultiuiux  intorju'oter, 
joiiUMl  the  ptiity,  the  luitives  imiiiediutel}'  ^iive  siu;ii» 
of  rec!o<,'iiitloti  aiwl  rtiitist'actiun,  came  into  the  boat  with- 
out tlie  leaKt  hesitation,  and  engaj;e«l  tlieninelves  pre- 
gently  in  a  lon^if  and  animated  conversation  with  tlieii 
countryman  the  inter[)retcr.  Hall'  an  hour  was  do- 
voted  to  this  interchange  of  inteliii^ence,  but  with  no 
iminedlato  result,  for  the  interpreter  could  oidy  trans- 
late his  native  language  into  iJanish,  and  as  no  pernon 
in  the  boat  umlerstood  Danisli,  the  information  re- 
mained as  inaccessible  as  before.  In  this  predicament 
the  boats  returned  with  the  intention  of  coidVonting  the 
interpreter  —  whose  christianized  name  is  Adam  IJeek 
—  v/ith  Sir  John  Ji*)ss  himself.  As  Sir  John,  h(»\vever, 
was  i)ushing  ahead  in  the  Felix  toward  Ca])e  J)udley 
Diggs,  and  as  Adam  ajipeared  anxious  to  disburden 
liimself  t»f  his  newly  ac([uired  information,  the  boats 
droj)[)ed  on  board  the  Prince  Albert,  another  of  the 
exploring  vessels  in  the  neighborhood,  and  ther'j  }>ut 
Adam  in  communication  with  the  captain's  steward, 
John  Smith,  who  "understood  a  little  of  the  language,'' 
as  Sir  John  Koss  says,  or  "a  good  deal,"  as  (.'om- 
mander  Phillips  says,  and  who  presently  gave  such  an 
account  of  the  intelligence  as  startled  every  body  on 
board.  Its  purport  was  as  follows; — That  in  the  win- 
ter of  184(>,  when  the  snow  was  falling,  two  shii)s  wen- 
crushed  by  the  ice  a  good  way  otf  in  the  direction  ot 
Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  and  afterward  burned  by  a  fierce 
and  numerous  tribe  of  natives;  that  the  ships  in  ques- 
tion were  not  whalers,  atid  that  epaulettes  were  worn 
by  some  of  the  white  men;  that  a  part  of  the  crews 
were  drowned,  that  the  remainder  were  some  time  in 
huts  or  tents  apart  from  the  natives,  that  they  had  guns, 
but  no  balls,  and  that  being  in  a  weak  and  exhausted 
condition,  they  were  subsequently  killed  by  the  natives 
with  darts  or  arrows.  This  was  the  form  given  to  the 
Esquimaux  story  by  John  Smith,  captain's  steward  of 
the  Prince  Albert.  Impressed  with  the  importance  of 
these  tidings,  Captain  Ommaney  and  Commander 
Phillips  immediately  made  their  report  to  Captain 


VOYACH;    ok   SIU   JoUN    UohM    l\   TIfH    FKIJX,    KTf?.     321 

Aiisliii  ill  tlic  lu'soliito,  wliioh  was  tlien  in  coniimny 
with  tlio  Felix  iiuur('si|iu  Dudley  !)ijLrp:s.  (Japtuiii  Aus- 
tin at  onco  tlec-iiUul  ii|)(tn  iiive8ti;:;a1iii<;  llu!  crLMJihility 
of  the  Htory,  and  with  this  view  ilispatehed  a  e.s.sa;;'o 
to  the  J.a<ly  Franklin,  another  of  the  ex|)lorin<^'  ships, 
which  lav  a  few  miles  oil',  and  which  had  on  IxMird  a 
rejrular  Danish  interpreter.  This  interpreter  duly  ar- 
rived, hut  i>roceeded  forthwith  to  translate  the  story  by 
a  statement  '■'totally  at  variance"  with  the  lnterj»reta- 
tion  of  "the  other,"  whom,  as  wo  are  told,  he  called  a 
liar  and  intimidated  into  silence  ;  thou/^h  lU)  sooner  was 
the  latter  left  to  himself  than  he  a-;ain  repeated  his 
version  t>f  the  tal(%  and  stoutly  maintained  its  accuracy. 
Meantime  an  additiomd  ])iece  of  infornuition  hecamo 
known,  namely,  that  a  ctM-tain  ship  had  passed  the  win- 
ter safely  housed  in  Wolstenholme  Sound  —  a  state- 
ment soon  ascertained  by  actual  investij^ation  to  bo 
perfectly  truo.  Tho  following  is  an  extract  of  a  letter 
from  — 

Captain  Sir  John  Uohs^  li.  iT.,  to  Caj^tain  W.  A.B. 
Hamilton^  li.  iV.,  Secretary  of  the  Adiniraltij. 

^^'' I^clix'*  discovery  yachts  off  Adm/iralty  Inlet^ 
'•'' Lancaster  Sound ,  August  22. 

"Stk, —  I  have  to  acquaint  you,  for  tho  inforniation 
of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  tho  Admiralty,  that  the 
Felix  discovery  yacht,  with  her  tender,  the  Mary,  after 
obtaininj^  an  Esquimaux  inter])rcter  at  Ilolstoinbornr, 
and  callinpf  at  Whale-Fish  Islands,  proceeded  north  way 
throujnrh  the  "Wavtiatt  Straits,  and  overtook  her  ]\Ia- 
jesty's  discovery  ships,  under  the  cominand  of  Captain 
Austin  on  the  11th  of  Aufijust ;  and  on  the  12th  tho 
senior  ofiicer  and  the  second  in  command  havin<:]f  cor- 
dially corammiicated  with  me  on  the  best  mode  of 
performing  the  service  on  whicli  we  are  mutually  em- 
barked, arrangements  were  made  and  concluded  for  a 
simultaneous  examination  of  every  part  of  the  eastern 
side  of  a  northwest  passage  in  which  it  was  probable 
that  the  missing  ships  could  be  bound :  documents  t»> 


1 1- ''I 


■li 

m 

■I 


322 


I'llOGKESS   OF  AltCTIO   DISCOVERY. 


ill! 


m\ 


€ 


that  effect  were  exchanged,  and  subsequently  assented 
to  by  Captains  Forsyth  and  Fenny. 

"  On  the  13th  of  August  natives  were  discovered  on 
the  ice  near  to  Cape  York,  with  whom  it  was  deemed 
advii^able  to  coinmunicatc.  On  this  service.  Lieutenant 
Cator,  in  the  Intrepid,  was  detached  on  the  part  of 
Captain  Austin,  and  un  my  part  Commander  Phillips, 
witli  our  Escpiimaux  interpreter,  in  the  whale-boat  of 
tlie  Felix.  It  was  found  by  Lieutenant  Cator  that  Cap- 
tain Fenny  had  left  witii  the  natives  a  note  for  Captain 
Austin,  but  only  relative  to  the  state  of  the  navigation ; 
however,  when  Commander  Fhillips  arrived,  the  Esqui- 
maux, seeing  one  apparently  of  their  own  nation  in  the 
whale-boat,  came  immediately  to  him,  when  a  long 
conversation  took  place,  the  purport  of  which  could 
not  be  made  known,  as  the  interpreter  could  not  ex- 
plain himself  to  any  one,  either  in  the  Intrepid  or  the 
whale-boat,  (as  he  understands  only  the  Danisli  besides 
his  own  language,)  until  he  was  brought  on  board  the 
Prince  Albert,  where  John  Smith,  tlie  captain's  stew- 
ard of  that  vessel,  who  had  been  some  years  at  the 
Hudson's  Bay  settlement  of  Churchill,  and  understands 
a  little  of  tiie  language,  was  able  to  give  some  expla- 
nation of  Adam  Peek's  information,  which  was  deemed 
of  such  importance  that  Captains  Ommaney,  Phillips, 
and  Forsyth,  proceeded  in  the  Intrepid  to  the  Pesolute, 
when  it  was  decided  by  Captain  Austin  to  send  for  the 
Danish  Interpreter  of  the  Lady  Franklin,  which,  hav- 
ing boen  unsuccessful  in  an  attempt  at  getting  through 
the  ice  to  the  westward,  was  only  a  few  miles  distant. 
In  the  mean  time  it  was  known  that,  in  addition  to  the 
first  information,  a  ship,  which  could  only  be  the  North 
Star,  had  wintered  in  Wolstenholme  Sound,  called  by 
the  native.^  Ourinak,  and  had  only  left  it  a  month  ago. 
This  proved  to  be  true,  but  the  interpretation  of  the 
Dane  was  totally  at  variance  with  the  information  given 
by  the  other,  who,  although  for  obvious  reasons  he  did 
not  dare  to  contradict  the  Dane,  subsequently  main- 
tained the  truth  of  his  statement,  which  induced  Cap- 
tain Austin  to  dispatch  the   Intrepid  with  Captains 


ssented 

Bred  on 
ieenied 
utenant 
part  of 
Miillips, 
boat  of 
at  Cap- 
Japtain 
itratioTi : 
)  Esqui- 
1  in  the 

a  lonsf 
li  could 
not  ex- 
1  or  the 
besides 
ard  tlie 
's  stew- 

at  the 
srstands 
)  ex])la- 
leemed 
*}iillip8, 

solute, 

for  the 
h,  hav- 
Ihrough 

listant. 

to  the 

North 
lied  by 
Ith  anjo. 

of  the 
given 

|he  did 

main- 

Cap- 

[.ptains 


VOYAGK   OF   SIR  JOHN   KOSS   IN   TI[E  FELIX,   ETC.     323  . 

Oinmaney  and  Phillips,  taking  with  them  both  our  in- 
terpreters, Adam  Beek  and  a  young  native  who  had 
been  persuaded  to  come  as  one  of  the  crew  of  the  As- 
sistance, to  examine  Wolstenholme  Sound.  In  the 
mean  time  it  had  been  unanimously  decided  that  no 
alteration  should  be  made  in  our  previous  arrangement, 
it  being  obvious  that  while  there  remained  a  chance  of 
saving  the  lives  of  those  of  the  missing  ships  who  may 
l)e  yet  alive,  a  further  search  for  those  who  had  per- 
ished should  be  postponed,  and  accordingly  the  Reso- 
lute, Pioneer,  and  Prince  Albert  parted  com])any  on 
the  15th.  It  is  here  unnecessary  to  give  the  official  re- 
ports made  to  me  by  Commander  Phillips,  which  are 
of  course  transmitted  by  me  to  the  Secretary  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which,  with  the  information 
written  in  the  Esquimaux  language  by  Adam  Beek, 
will  no  doubt  be  sent  to  you  for  their  Lordships'  infor- 
mation ;  and  it  will  be  manifest  by  these  reports  that 
Commander  Phillips  has  performed  his  duty  with  sa- 
gacity, circumspection,  and  address,  which  do  him  in- 
finite credit,  although  it  is  only  such  as  I  must  have 
expected  from  so  intelligent  an  officer;  and  I  have 
much  satisfaction  in  adding  that  it  has  been  mainly 
owing  to  his  zeal  and  activity  that  I  was  able,  under 
disadvantai'i''  lis  circumstances,  to  overtake  her  Majes- 
ty's ships,  Millie  by  his  scientific  acquirements  and  ac- 
curacy in  surveying,  he  has  been  able  to  make  many 
important  corrections  and  valuable  additions  to  the 
charts  of  the  much-frequented  eastern  side  of  Baffin's 
Bay,  which  has  been  more  closely  observed  and  navi- 
gated by  us  than  by  any  former  expedition,  and,  much 
to  my  satisfaction,  coniirming  the  latitude  and  longi- 
tude of  every  headland  I  had  an  opportunity  of  laying 
down  in  the  year  1818. 

"I  have  only  to  add  that  I  have  much  satisfaction 
in  co-operating  with  her  Majesty's  expedition.  With 
such  support  and  with  such  vessels  so  ]iarticularly 
adapted  for  the  service,  no  exertion  shall  be  wanting 
on  my  part.  But  I  cannot  conclude  this  letter  without 
acknowledging  my  obligations  to  Commodore  Austin 


•  v.  t 


W-l 


>"M 


I 


ii'il 


m> 


ai'i 


324 


PROGRESS   OF    ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


and  Captain  Ominaney  for  tlie  assistance  they  liave  af- 
forded me,  and  for  the  cordiality  and  courtesy  with 
which  I  have  been  treated  by  these  distinguished  offi- 
cers and  others  of  tlie  ships  under  their  orders.     Ani- 
mated as  we  are  witli  an  ardent  and  sincere  desire  to 
rescue  our  imperiled  countrymen,  I  confidently  trust 
fhat  our  united  exertions  and  humble  endeavors  may, 
mder  a  merciful  Providence,  be  completely  successful. 
"I  am,  \vith  truth  and  regard,  Sir,  your  faithful  and 
v>bedient  servant, 

"John  Ross,  Captain,  R.  N." 

By  the  accounts  brought  home  by  Commander  For- 
syth from  Lancaster  Sound,  to  the  25th  of  August,  it 
is  stated  that  Sir  John  lioss,  in  the  Felix,  intended  to 
return  to  England. 

The  ice  was  at  that  period  very  heavy,  extending  all 
around  from  Leopold  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  Regent 
Inlet,  to  Cape  Farewell,  to  the  westward,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent the  possibility  of  any  of  the  vessels  pushing  on  to 
Cape  Walker.  When  the  Prince  Albert  was  between 
Cape  Spencer  and  Cape  Innes,  in  Wellington  Cliannel, 
Mr.  Snow  went  at  noon  to  the  mast-head,  and  saw  II. 
M.  Ship  Assistance  as  near  as  possible  within  Cape 
Ilotliam,  under  a  press  of  sail.  Her  tender,  the  In- 
trepid, was  not  seen,  but  was  believed  to  be  with  her. 
Captain  Penny,  witli  his  two  ships,  the  Lady  Fran]<lin 
and  Sophia,  was  endeavoring  to  make  his  way  up  the 
same  Channel,  but  it  was  feared  the  ice  would  ulti- 
mately be  too  strong  for  him,  and  that  he  would  have 
to  return  home,  leaving  Captain  Austin's  squadron  only 
to  winter  in  the  ice. 

The  American  man-of-war  brig  Rescue  was  close  be- 
set with  the  ice  near  Ca])e  Bowen. 

The  Pioneer  was  with  the  Resolute  on  the  17th 
August. 


LADY  franklin's  APPEAL  TO  AMEHICAN  NATION.    325 


17tb 


A  lERicAN  Searching  Expedition. —  United  States' 
(Ships,  "Advance"  and  "IIescue,"  under  the  Com- 
mand OF  Lieutenant  De  Haven,  1850-51. 

In  tlie  spring  of  1849,  Lady  Fninklin  made  a  touch- 
ing and  pathetic  appeal  to  the  feelings  of  the  American 
nation,  in  the  following  letter  to  the  President  of  the 
Kepublic :  — 

The  Lady  of  Sir  John  FranMin  to  the  President. 

^^ Bedford-place^  London^  4:th  April,  1849. 

"Sir, —  I  address  myself  to  you  as  the  head  of  a 
great  nation,  whose  power  to  help  me  I  cannot  doubt, 
and  in  whose  disposition  to  do  so  I  have  a  confidence 
which  I  trust  you  will  not  deem  presumptuous. 

"The  name  of  my  husband,  Sir  John  Franklin,  is 
probably  not  unknown  to  you.  It  is  intimately  con- 
nected with  tlie  northern  part  of  that  continent  of 
which  the  American  republic  forms  so  vast  and  con- 
spicuous a  portion.  When  I  visited  the  United  States 
three  years  ago,  among  the  many  proofs  I  received  of 
respect  and  courtesy,  there  was  none  which  toliched 
and  even  surprised  me  more  than  the  appreciation 
everywhere  expressed  to  me  of  his  former  services  in 
geographical  discovery,  and  the  interest  felt  in  the  en- 
tei'jjrise  in  which  he  was  then  known  to  be  engaged." 
*  *  *  *  * 

[Her  ladyship  here  gives  the  details  of  the  departure 

of  the  expedition,  and  the  measures  already  taken  for 

its  relief] 

***** 

"I  have  entered  into  these  details  with  the  view  of 
proving  that,  though  the  British  government  has  not 
forgotten  th^  duty  it  owes  to  the  brave  men  whom  it 
has  sent  on  a  perilous  service,  and  has  spent  a  very 
large  sum  in  providing  the  means  for  their  rescue,  yet 
that,  owing  to  various  causes,  tlie  means  actually  in 
operation  for  this  purpose  are  quite  inadequate  t(»  meet 
the    extreme  exigence  of  the  case;   for,  it   must   btv 


n 


m 


: 


320 


riiOGKESS  OF  AKCTIC   DISCOVKRY. 


m ' 


remembered,  tliat  the  missing  ships  were  victualed  fov 
three  yejirs  only,  and  that  nearly  four  years  have  now 
elapsed,  so  that  the  survivors  of  so  many  winters  in  the 
ice  must  be  at  the  last  extremity.  And  also,  it  must 
be  borne  in  mind,  that  the  channels  by  which  the  ships 
may  have  attempted  to  force  a  passage  to  the  westward, 
or  which  they  may  have  been  compelled,  by  adverse 
circumstances,  to  take,  are  very  numerous  and  compli- 
cated, and  that  one  or  two  ships  cannot  possibly,  in  the 
course  of  the  next  short  summer,  explore  them  all. 

"The  Board  of  Admiraltv,  under  a  conviction  of  this 
fact,  has  been  induced  to  offer  a  reward  of  20,000/. 
sterling  to  any  ship  or  ships,  of  any  country,  or  to  any 
exploring  pj^rty  whatever,  which  sliall  render  efficient 
assistance  to  the  missing  ships,  or  their  crews,  or  to  any 
portion  of  them.  This  announcement,  wliich,  even  if 
the  sum  had  been  doubled  or  trebled,  would  have  met 
with  public  approbation,  comes,  however,  too  late  for 
our  v/halers,  which  hfid  unfortunately  sailed  before  it 
was  issued,  and  which,  even  if  the  news  should  over- 
take them  at  their  fishing-grounds,  are  totally  unfitted 
for  any  prolonged  adventure,  having  only  a  few  months' 
provision  on  bo<ard,  and  no  additional  clothing.  To  the 
American  whalers,  both  in  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  I 
look  with  more  hope,  as  competitors  for  the  prize,  be- 
ing well  aware  of  their  numbers  and  strength,  their 
thorough  equipment,  and  the  bold  spirit  of  enterprise 
which  animates  their  crews.  But  I  venture  to  look* 
even  beyond  these.  I  am  not  without  hope  that  you 
will  deem  it  not  unworthv  of  a  great  and  kindred  na- 
tion  to  take  up  the  cause  of  humanity  wiiich  I  plead,  in 
a  national  spirit,  and  thus  generously  make  it  your  own. 

"  I  must  here,  in  gratitude,  adduce  the  example  of 
the  imperial  Ilussian  government,  which,  as  I  am  led 
to  hope  by  his  Excellency,  the  Russian  embassador  in 
London,  who  forwarded  a  memorial  on  the  subject,  will 
send  out  exploring  parties  this  summer,  from  the  Asiatic 
Bide  of  Behring's  Strait,  northward,  in  search  of  the 
lost  vessels.  It  would  be  a  noble  spectacle  to  the 
^pi'orld,  if  three  great  nations,  possessed  of  the  widest 


LADY  franklin's   APPEAL  TO  AMEKICAN  NATION.   327 

empires  on  tJie  face  of  the  globe,  were  thus  to  unite 
their  efforts  in  the  truly  chriHtian  work  of  saving  their 
perishing  fellow-men  from  destruction. 

"It  is  not  for  me  to  suggest  the  mode  in  which  such 
benevolent  efforts  might  best  be  made.  1  will  only  say, 
however,  that  if  the  conceptions  of  my  own  mind,  to 
which  1  do  not  venture  to  give  utterance,  were  realized, 
and  that  in  the  noble  competition  which  followed,  Amer- 
ican seamen  had  the  good  fortune  to  wrest  from  us  the 
glory,  as  might  be  the  case,  of  solving  the  problem  of 
tlie  unfound  passage,  or  the  still  greater  glory  of  saving 
our  adventurous  navigators  from  a  lingering  fate  which 
the  mind  sickens  to  dwell  on,  though  1  should  in  either 
case  regret  that  it  was  not  my  own  brave  countrymen 
in  those  seas  whose  devotion  was  thus  rewarded,  yet 
should  I  rejoice  that  it  was  to  America  we  owed  our 
restored  hap})iness,  and  should  be  forever  bound  to  her 
by  ties  of  affectionate  gratitude. 

"I  am  not  without  some  misgivings  while  I  thus  ad- 
dress you.     The  intense  anxieties  of  a  wife  and  of  a 
daughter  may  have  led  me  to  press  too  earnestly  on 
your  notice  the  trials  under  which  we  are  suffering, 
(yet  not  we  only,  but  hundreds  of  others,)  and  to  pre- 
sume too  much  on  the  sympathy  which  we  are  assured 
is  felt  beyond  the  limits  of  our  own  land,     let,  if 
you  deem  this  to  be  the  case,  you  will  still  find,  1  am 
sure,  even  in  that  personal  intensity  of  feeling,  an 
excuse  for  the  fearlessness  wifli  which  I  have  throwir* 
myself  on  your  generosity,  and  will  pardon  the  ho»; 
age  I  thus  pay  to  your  own  high  character,  and  to  thr 
of  the  peojjle  over  whom  you  have  the  distinction  t' 
preside.  "  I  have,  &c., 

(Signed)  "Jane  Feanklin." 

To  which  the  following  reply  was  received  : — 

Mr.  Clayton  to  Lady  Jane  Franhlin. 

''''Department  of  State^  Washington^ 
''26th' April,  1849. 

"Madam, — Your  letter  to  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  dated  April  4th,  1849,  has  been  received  by 


M 


id 


m 


328 


PKOORESa   OF   AUCTIO   DISCOVEKY. 


liiin,  and  lie  lias  instructed  rac  to  make  to  you  the  fol- 


io 


wiiiir  re 


ply 


h 


"■  Tlie  a])[)eal  made  in  the  letter  with  which  you  nave 
honored  him,  is  such  as  would  strongly  enlist  the  sym- 
patliy  of  the  rulers  and  the  people  of  any  portion  of 
the  civilized  world. 

"  To  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  who  share  so 
largely  in  the  emotions  wliich  agitate  the  puMic  mind 
in  your  own  country,  the  name  of  Sir  John  Franklin 
has  been  endeared  by  his  heroic  virtues,  and  the  suffer- 
ings and  sacritices  which  he  has  encountered  for  the 
benefit  of  mankind.  The  appeal  of  his  wife  and  daugh- 
ter, in  tiieir  distress,  has  been  borne  across  the  waters, 
asking  the  assistance  of  a  kindred  people  to  save  the 
bi'ave  men  who  embarked  in  this  unfortunate  exj^edi- 
tion  ;  and  the  people  of  the  United  States,  who  have 
watched  with  the  deepest  interest  that  hazardous  enter- 
j)rise,  will  now  respond  to  that  appeal,  by  the  expression 
of  their  united  wishes  that  every  proper  effort  may  be 
made  by  this  government  for  the  rescue  of  your  hus- 
band and  his  companions. 

"  To  accomplish  the  objects  you  have  in  view,  the 
attention  of  American  navigators,  and  especially  of 
our  wlialcrs,  will  be  immediately  invoked.  All  the  in- 
formation in  the  possession  of  this  government,  to 
enable  them  to  aid  in  discovering  the  missing  ships, 
relieving  their  crews  and  restoring  them  to  their  fami- 
lies, sliall  be  spread  far  and  wide  among  our  people ; 
and  all  that  tlie  executive  government  of  the  United 
States,  in  the  exercise  of  its  constitutional  powers,  can 
effect,  to  meet  this  requisition  on  American  enterprise, 
skill  and  bravery,  will  be  promptly  undertaken. 

"  The  hearts  of  the  American  people  will  be  deeply 
touched  by  your  eloquent  address  to  their  Chief  Magis- 
trate, and  tliey  will  join  with  you  in  an  earnest  prayer 
to  llini  whose  spirit  is  on  the  waters,  tliat  your  husband 
and  his  companions  may  yet  be  restored  to  their  coun- 
try and  their  friends. 

"  I  have,  &c., 
(Signed)  "  John  M.  Clayton." 


LADY  FliANKLIN  8  AIM'EAL   TO  AMKItlCAN   .NATION.    821) 


fol- 


heeply 

Nlagis- 

)rayer 

[sband 

coun- 


)N 


?? 


A  second  U'ttcr  wub  also  addressed  by  Lady  Franklin 
to  tlie  President  in  tiic  close  of  that  year,  after  the  I'ureed 
return  of  Captain  Sir  James  lloss,  from  whose  active 
exertions  so  much  had  been  exj^ected  — 

The  Lad^i    ^ Sir  John  Franld'm  to  the  President. 
Sjpr      '  Gardens,  LoiiJ.    .,,  Wth  Dec,  1849. 

"Sir, —  I  had  tiio  honor  of  addressing  myself  to 
you,  in  the  month  of  April  last,  in  belialf  of  my  hus- 
band, Sir  John  Franklin,  his  officers  and  crews,  who 
were  sent  by  Iler  Majesty's  govermnent,  in  the  spring 
of  1845,  on  a  maritime  expedition  for  a  discovery  of 
the  northwest  passage,  and  who  have  never  since  been 
heard  of. 

"Their  mysterious  fate  has  excited,  I  believe,  the 
deepest  interest  throughout  the  civilized  world,  but  no- 
where more  so,  not  even  in  England  itself,  than  in  the 
United  States  of  America.  It  was  under  a  deep  con- 
viction of  this  fact,  and  with  the  humble  hope  that  an 
appeal  to  those  general  sentiments  would  never  Ijo 
made  altogether  m  vain,  that  I  ventured  to  lay  before 
you  the  necessities  of  that  critical  period,  and  to  ask 
you  to  take  up  the  cause  of  humanity  which  I  pleaded, 
and  generously  make  it  your  own. 

"  liow  nobly  you,  sir,  and  the  American  people, 
responded  to  that  appeal,  —  how  kindly  and  courteously 
that  response  was  conveyed  to  me,  —  is  known  wherever 
our  common  language  is  spoken  or  understood ;  and 
though  difiiculties,  which  were  mainly  owing  to  the 
advanced  state  of  the  season,  presented  themselves  after 
your  official  announcement  had  been  made  known  to  our 
government,  and  prevented  the  inniiediate  execution  of 
your  intentions,  yet  the  generous  pledge  you  had  givm 
was  not  altogether  withdrawn,  and  hope  still  remained 
to  me  that,  should  the  necessity  for  renewed  measures 
continue  to  exist,  I  might  look  again  across  tht^  waters 
for  the  needed  succor. 

"A  period  has  now,  alas,  arrived,  wlien  our  d(>arest 
hopes  as  to  the  safe  return  of  t'le  discovery  ■A\\\)^'  this 
autunin  are  tinallv  cruslied   l)v  t!ie  uiiexru'cf!';].  lliuii:j^h 

15 


:1m 


.•YV.3 

M. 


:;;u) 


iMU)()i:i;ss  oi-'  Auoru!  discovkuv. 


I:  t 
1 


ioivetl  rohini  of  Sir  .Jjuuch  Iuism,  Nvitliont;  uny  t,M»iiij*s  of 
tluMu,  ami  also  l»v  tlu'  cIosimiI'  llm  arctic  hiiuhoii.  Aial 
not  only  liavo  no  tidiiiii's  hccii  hroiiijlit  of  tlicir  sut'ctv  or 
of  tlicir  fate,  but  even  tlio  very  liaccH  of  tlu'ir  coiiiso 
liayc  yet  to  bo  disiMjycrcd  ;  for  siicii  wuh  the  concur- 
iviK'c  of  inil'oi'tunatc  and  unusual  cin'unistanccs  altcnd- 
iui;'  tlic  I'llortH  of  tlie  l>rayt»  and  able  olliccr  albidcd  to, 
that  \h)  was  not  able  to  reach  those,  points  where  indi- 
cations of  the  course  of  discoyery  Khi|M  would  most 
]>robably  bo  found.  And  thus,  at  tlu^  close  of  a  second 
reason  since  the  di'jtarlure  of  tlu^  reci>nt  expedition  of 
aearch,  \ye  renuiin  in  nearly  the  same  state  of  i<:;norance 
rcspectiujj;  the  niissini;;  expedition  as  at  the  nionient  of 
its  starting;  from  our  sliores.  And  in  the  mean  time  our 
braye  countrymen,  \yiiether  c!in<^in^  still  to  their  ships, 
or  dispersed  in  yarious  directions,  haye  entered  upon  a 
iifth  \vinter  in  those  dark  and  dreary  solitudes,  with 
exhausted  means  of  sustenance,  while  yet  their  expected 
succor  comes  not! 

''  It  is  in  the  time,  then,  of  their  <»;reatest  peril,  in  the 
day  of  their  extremest  need,  that  J.  yenture,  encouraujed 
by  your  former  kiiuhu'ss,  to  Unik  to  yon  au-ain  for  some 
active  ellbrts  which  may  come  in  aid  of  those  of  my 
own  country,  and  add  to  the  means  t>f  search,  ilcu* 
]\bijesty's  ^linisters  haye  ab'eady  resohed  on  sending 
an  e\})edition  to  llehrino-'s  Strait,  and  doubtless  haye 
other  necessary  measures  in  contem])lation,  Kuj)portiMl 
as  they  are,  in  every  means  that  can  be  d(>yised  for  this 
liunume  purpose,  by  the  sym])athies  of  the  nation,  and 
by  the  iTv'uerous  solicitude  which  our  (^ueen  is  knowji 
to  feel  in  tiie  fa(:e  of  her  brave  people  imperiled  in  theii 
country's  scn-yice.  Ihit,  whatever  be  the  measuivs  con- 
temi)l..i,ed  bv  the  Admiralty,  they  cannot  be  such  as 

1  ft  t,'      ■  V 

\\\\\  leave  no  room  or  necessity  fi>r  more,  sinc^e  it  is 
oidv  by  the  multiplication  of  means,  and  those  yiu'orous 
and  lutstant  ones,  tliat  we  can  liope,  at  this  last  sta<i^e, 
anvl  in  this  last  hour,  perhaps,  of  the  lost  navigators' 
existence,  to  snatch  them  from  a  dreary  srave.  And 
surely,  rill  the  slun'es  and  seas  of  those  frozen  re^'ions 
Ii;!V(>  h-cii  swept-  in  all  directions,  or  until  some  memo- 


MKiniCNANT   OHIKfUN  H    HIOtJIKirONH. 


Or>i 


iL'inlinjj; 


liuemo- 


rh\]  !>«'  tomid  lo  ulU'st,  tlicir  lUlc,  ncitlu^r  I'!ii;^liin(l,  who 
Hciil.  Iliom  otit,  iior  oven  AiiKiricu,  <»ii  wliust-  sIkii-cm  liny 
liiivt^  luHin  luimclu'd  in  n  cuusc,  wliicli  Iiuh  intcrislctl  Iho 
World  f(»r  ('('iit.iii'it'H,  will  dcciii  ilic,  (|ii('sti(»ri  ut  rcht 

''•  May  it  jdiasc  (iod  ho  to  in(»vc  llio  liciiits  iiiid  willn 
of  Ji  ^vvni  tiiid  kiii<lr<'d  in'oplc,  and  of  tlu-ir  clioscFi 
('lii(ft'  Mai^dslralc,  that  llicy  may  join  heart  and  hand 
in  t  he  ;i;(n('ronH  ont((r[»ris(!  I  The  resjiect  and  admiration 
of  the  world,  which  watchcH  with  <irowin^  interest  evitry 
movement  of  your  ^reat  repuMie,  will  follow  the.  ehiv- 
alriir  and  humane  endeavor,  and  the  hlessin^  of  them 
wiio  were  ready  to  periwh  nhall  come  to  you! 

"  1  have,  i^i\, 
(Signed)  Jank  Fijankun. 

''''Ilifi  J^'xcelUmey  the  President  of  the  IJnUcd  Sla      ." 

In  a  very  adnn'ral)]o  letter  addresBcjd  to  Lady  Frank- 
lin in  Kehruary,  1850,  hy  J.i((ut.  Sherard  Oshorn,  If.  N., 
oeeur  the  following  remarlv.s  und  Hngg(!Htion,s,  whieh 
aj>|)ear  to  me  ho  explicit  und  valuable  that  1  j'uhli.sh 
them  entire  :  — 

''''Great  J^jding^  Middlese.x^  Cdh  F^lrniary^  1850. 

"My  DioAit  Ladv  Franklin.  —  It  is  of  course  of  vitjd 
importance  that  the  generous  co-c»peration  of  the  Ameri- 
cans in  the  rescue  of  ISii'  flohn  Franklin  and  his  crew3 
be  <lirecl('d  to  ])oints  which  call  for  search,  and  at  the 
same  time  give  them  a  clc^ar  Held  for  the  exercis<!  of 
their  eru  rgy  and  emulation.  It  would  be  a  pity,  for 
instance,  if  they  should  be  merely  working  on  the  same 
giound  with  ourselves,  while  extensive  jxn-tioiis  f)f  the 
Arctic  Sea,  in  which  it  is  e(|ually  ])robable  the  lost  ex- 
])edition  may  bcrfound, should  be  lefr  iinexaminerl ;  and 
none,  in  my  oi)inion,  oilers  a  better  prospect  of  success- 
ful search  than  the  coasts  of  liepulse  I'ay,  Jlecla  and 
Fury  Strait,  Conunittoe  Bay,  Felix  Harbor,  the  estuary 
of  the  (rreat  Fish  Kiver,  and  Simpson's  Strait,  with  the 
sea  to  the  northwest  of  it.  My  reasons  for  saying  so 
are  as  follows  ;  — 


m 


J33 


puonijKsfl  OF  Aucric  discovery. 


.? 


'"Suppose  Sir  John  Fninlvlin  to  have  80  far  carried 
out  the  tenor  of  his  orders  as  to  liave  jienotratcd  south- 


ith 


west  from  Cape  AV^iIkor,  aiul  to  liave  Deen  eitiier  'cast 
away,'  or  liopelessl y  imj)e(led  hy  ice,  and  that  eitlier  in 
the  past  or  j)resent  year  he,  found  it  necessary  to  (piit 
liis  siiips,  tliey  being  anywiiere  betM'een  10(>°  and  l(»s'' 
west  longitu«k>,  ami  70"^  and  7o°  north  latitude.  Kow, 
to  retrace  his  steps  to  Cape  Walker,  and  tlience  to  Ite- 
gcnt  Inlet,  M'ould  he  no  doubt  tlie  iirst  suijgestion  tlia.t 
wouhl  arise.  Yet  there  are  objections  to  it:  firstly,  he 
M'ould  have  to  contend  against  the  prevailing  set  of  the 
ice,  and  currents,  and  iu)rtherly  wiiul  ;  sectnully,  if  no 
whalers  were  found  in  Lancaster  Sound,  how  was  ho 
to  support  his  hirge  party  in  regions  where  the  musk 
OK  or  reindeer  is  never  seen  ^  thirdly,  leaving  his 
shijjs  in  the  summer,  he  knew  he  could  oidy  reach  the 
whaling  ground  in  the  fall  of  the  year  ;  and,  in  such 
case.  Mould  it  not  be  advisable  to  mnkvi  rather  for 
the  southej'ii  than  the  northern  limit  of  the  seas  vis- 
ited by  the  M'halers?  fourthly,  by  edging  to  tiie  south 
rather  than  the  north,  Sir  John  Fraidclin  would  be 
falling  back  to,  rather  than  going  from,  relief,  and  in- 
crease the  probabilities  of  providing  food  for  his  large 
])arty. 

"  1  do  not  believe  he  would  have  decided  on  going 
due  south,  because  the  lofty  land  of  Victoria  Island 
was  in  his  road,  and  when  he  did  reach  the  American 
shore,  he  would  only  attain  a  desert,  of  VvOiose  horn»r8 
he  no  doubt  retained  a  vivid  recollection  ;  and  a 
lengthy  laud  iourney  of  more  than  lOUO  miles  to  the 
Hudson's  Bay  settlements  was  more  than  his  men  were 
capable  of. 

"  There  remains,  therefore,  but  one  route  for  Sir  John 
under  such  circumstances  to  follow  ;  and  it  decidedly 
has  the  following  merits,  that  of  l)eing  in  a  direct  line 
for  the  southern  limit  of  the  whale  fishery  ;  that  of 
leading  through  a  series  of  narrow  seas  adapted  for  the 
navigation  of  small  open  boats  ;  that  of  being  the  most 
expeditious  route  by  which  to  reach  Fort  Churchill,  in 
Hudson's  15ay  ;  that  of  leading  through  a  region  visited 


LIKUTKiNANT   0SU01t^'  8  SUGGESTIONS. 


333 


iirgo 


Jolm 
tU'dlv 
it  line 
at  of 
or  tlio 
)  most 
ill,  in 
i  sited 


by  Ksquiuianx  and  niif]^ratoiy  animals  ;  and  tln'n  ronto 
is  tliroii;^li  tlie'8imit  of  ISir  .hunes  IIosh,'  across  tlio 
narrow  fstliiniis  of  JJoothia  Felix,  (wliicli,  as  }'ou  re- 
minded me  to-day,  was  not  suj)j)ose(l  to  exist  wJien  Sir 
John  Frankiin  left  Knuland,  and  has  been  sinc((  discov 


()V- 


ered,)  into  tiie  (iidf  of  Jiootliia,  where  h(^  could  either 
]»ass  hy  ileela  and  Fnry  Strait  int(>  the  fishinii^-^ritHnd 
of  Hudson's  Strait,  or  els(^  <^o  soutiiward  (h»wn  (Joiuniit- 
tee  liay,  across  the  Itae  Isthmus  into  liepulse  i>ay,  and 
endeavor  from  there  to  reach  some  vessels  in  IJudson's 
IJav,  or  otherwise  Fort  ('hnrchill. 

"•It  is  not  unlikely  either,  that  M'hen  Franklin  had 
got  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  James  Jioss's  Strait, 
and  found  the  land  to  bo  across  his  j)ath  where  he  had 
expected  to  find  a  strait,  that  his  ])arty  mi<^lit  have  di- 
vided, and  tho  more  active  ])ortion  of  them  attenijited 
to  ascend  the  Great  Fish  liiver,  where  we  have  Sir 
Geor<^e  Back's  authority  forsui)])osiii<^  they  would  find, 
close  to  the  arctic  shores,  abundance  of  food  in  fish, 
and  lierds  of  reindeer,  ct:c.,  while  the.  others  traveled 
on  the  road  I  have  already  mentioned. 

"  To  search  for  them,  therefore,  on  this  line  of  retreat, 
I  should  think  hi^iily  essential,  and  if  ne^-lected*  this 
year,  it  must  be  done  next  ;  and  if  not  done  by  the 
Americans,  it  oni>'ht  to  be  done  by  us. 

"1  therefore  suii'ijest  the  tbllowing  plan: — Suppose 
a  well-equli>i)ed  ex])edilion  to  leave  America  in  May, 
and  to  enter  Hudson's  Strait,  and  then  divide  into  two 
divisions.  The  first  division  might  go  northward, 
through  Fox's  Channel  to  llecla  and  Fury  Strait,  exam- 
ine the  shores  of  the  latter  carefully,  de])osit  provisions 
at  the  western  extreme,  erect  conspicuous  beacons,  and 
proceed  to  Melville  or  Felix  Harbor,  in  Boothia,  secure 
their  vessel  or  vessels,  and  dispatch,  as  soon  as  circum- 
stances Would  allow,  boat  parties  across  the  neck  of 
the  isthmus  into  the  western  waters.  Here  let  them 
divide,  and  one  party  proceed  through  James  Hoss's 

aminino-  the  coast,  Ji 


'fully 


Y)m 


ice,  or  land,  to  the  northwest  as  far  as  possible.     The 
other  boat  party  to  examine  the  estuary  of  the  Great 


m 


m 


;.-y 


'•-'■f'i'l 


su 


ri:OGKF,S8   OF   AKCTIC    DISCOVF.UY. 


Fish  Ilivov,  and  tlionoo  proceofl  wostwarrl  ii\o\\<^  tlio 
coant  of  Simpsoirs  Strait,  aiMl,  it'  possihlc,  oxaniine  tiio 
broad  hay  loriiicd  hotweon  it  and  Dfasc/H  Strait. 

"Tlu;  second  divinion,  on  partiiijjj  (MMnjiany,  niii]^l»l 
pass  sontli  (»f  Southaini)ton  Ishmd,  and  coa>t  alonjjj  t'nnn 
Cliosterliidd  Inlet  nortlnvard  to  Kepiilse  Day,  a  boat, 
party  with  two  b(»at8  inip;ht  cross  llac  Ifstiunns  into  tlio 
bottom  of  Committee  I>ay,  witli  instructions  to  visit 
botli  sliores  of  the  said  l)ay,  and  to  retidezvous  at  tlio 
western  entrance  of  IlecUi  and  Fnry  Stniit.  Tiie  sec- 
ov.d  division  (be  it  one  or  more  vessels)  shouhl  then 
])ass  into  Fox'ti  Channel,  and  turninj}^  through  Ifecla 
and  Fury  Strait,  ])ick  n])  the  boats  at  the  rendezvous; 
and  thence,  if  the  lirst  division  have  ])assed  on  all  ri;^ht, 
and  do  not  re([nire  reinforcement,  the  second  division 
sli<mld  steer  northward  aloni^  the  unknown  coast,  ex- 
temlinjLf  as  far  as  Capelvater;  from  Cajie  Kater  pio- 
ceed  to  Leopold  Island,  and  havinjjj  secured  their  ships 
there,  dispatch  boat  or  traveliug  parties  in  a  direction 
southwest  from  Ca])o  Rennell,  in  Xorth  Somerset,  be- 
ing in  a  parallel  line  to  tlie  line  of  search  wo  shall 
ad(>pt  from  Cape  Walker,  and  .at  the  same  time  it  will 
traverse  the  nnknowji  sea  beyond  the  Islands  hitely 
observed  by  Captain  Sir  James  Koss, 

"Some  such  plan  as  this  would,  I  think,  insure  voni 
£(allant  husband  being  met  or  assisted,  should  he  be  to 
the  sonth  or  the  west  of  Cape  Walker,  and  attem]it  to 
return  by  a  southeast  conrse,  a  direction  which,  I  think, 
others  as  well  as  myself  woidd  agree  in  thinking  a  very 
ratiomd  and  probal)le  one. 

"I  will  next  speak  of  an  argument  which  has  been 
brought  forward  in  consequence  of  no  traces  of  the 
missing  expedition  having  been  discovered  iji  Lancas- 
ter Sound  ;  that  it  is  quite  possible,  if  Franklin  failed 
in  getting  through  the  middle  ice  from  Melville  l>ay  to 
Lancaster  Sound,  that,  sooner  than  disappoint  ])ub1ic 
anxiety  and  expectation  of  a  profitable  result  arisino 
from  his  expedition,  he  may  have  turned  northwaid, 
and  gone  up  Smith's  Sound  ;  every  mile  beyond  its  en- 
trance was  new  ground,  and  therefore  a  reward  to  the 


DtJUA'lJJ    l^    CO>OUK88. 


305 


]<*  the 
ne  tho 


tr  tVoiii 
a  boiit 
nto  tlio 
()  visit 

sit  tlio 
Im  POC- 
(1  then 

Ilocla 
'/A'ous ; 
1  ri!i;lit, 
livirtioii 
}ist,  ex- 
tor  pro- 
ir  sliipii 
iroction 
set,  be- 
shall 

it  will 
hitely 


0 


re  yom 
e  be  to 
)inpt  tu 
[  think, 
<;  a  very 

IS  been 
of  the 

Liiiicfis- 

fjiiU'd 

P>ay  to 

public 

arising 

hwurd, 
its  en- 
to  tlie 


discoverer.  It  likewise  bro\ii;ht  them  nearer  the  ])olo, 
and  may  i)e  they  found  tluit  o]>en  sea  of  wiiich  iJaroii 
AVranuci  speaks  so  (•">n>tantiy  in  iiis  j(jurney8  over  tlio 
ice  northward  IVom  Siberia. 

''It  is  tlierefoi'e  dehiral)le  that  some  vessels  uliould 
carefully  examine  tho  entrance  of  this  sound,  and  vi;-it 
all  tlu^  consj)icu')US  headlands  for  some  consideraMe 
distance  within  it;  for  it  ouijfht  to  be  borm  in  mind, 
that  l(»calities  ]>erfeetly  acce>  ible  for  the  purpose  of 
erectiiiLr  beacons,  tfcc,  one  season,  may  be  <iuite  ini- 
I)racticable  tho  next,  and  Franklin,  late  in  the  season 
and  pressed  for  time,  would  not  have  wtuited  time,  scal- 
inir  berj^s  to  reach  tho  shore  and  i)iio  u|)  Cu/ns,  i.f 
which,  in  all  the  sani>uine  hope  of  success,  h<*  i  ,ald  not 
have;  i'oreseen  the  necessit}*. 

'"Should  any  clue  be  found  to  tho  "".-t,  expedition  ia 
this  direction,  to  follow  it  up  would,  of  ..'ourse,  be  tlio 
duty  of  the  relieviuij^  p'^^'^y,  and  every  thin;jf  would  de- 
pend necessarily  upon  the  judL^mentof  thecomnninders. 

''In  connection  with  tiiis  line  of  search,  1  think  a 
Bnnill  division  of  vessels,  startiuij  from  S[)it/,ber^en,  and 
])ushinjjj  from  it  in  a  northwest  direcliuu,  miujlit  be  of 
f:;reat  service ;  for  on  reference  to  tiie  chart,  it  will  bo 
seen  that  Spit/J)ergen  is  as  near  the  j)robal)lo  position 
of  Franklin  (if  he  went  north  about,)  on  the  east,  as 
Behrin<r''8  Strait  is  upon  tho  west;  and  the  probability 
of  reach  inji:  the  meridian  of  80°  west  from  Sj)itzberj;eu 
is  e(inally  as  o>ood  as,  if  not  •-oi^'jrthan,  Ijohrinjjj's  Strait, 
a?)d,  moreover,  a  country  capable  of  supporting  lifo 
always  in  the  rear  to  fall  back  npon. 

"ShERARO  OSROKN, 

"Lieutenant  Koyal  Navy. 
"To  Lady  Franklin." 

D:  BATE  IN  TUE  AMERICAN  CoNGRESS. 

The  followinir  remarks  of  honorable  members  and 
senators,  in  defense  of  the  bill  for  carrying};  out  Mr. 
Grinneirs expedition,  will  explain  the  jn'rounds  on  which 
the  government  countenance  was  invoked  for  the  noble 
iMidertakino- :  — 


.'■?•! 


■  f  ■  i;  ti 


?:''''Hlill 

M 


330 


riiOGKESS   OF   ARCrriO   DISCO VEUY. 


"Mr.  Mii,i,i;ii :  I  pivt'er  tliat  the  governiiieut  sliould 
have  the  iMitirc  control  of  thiB  ontcrprisc  ;  but,  Sir,  I. 
do  not  think  that  ciiii  be  aeconiplished  ;  at  all  events,  it 
cannot  within  tlie  time  required  to  produce  the  good 
results  wiiieh  are  to  be  lioped  from  this  expedition.  It 
is  well  known  to  all  that  the  uncertain  fate  of  Sir  John 
Franklin  aiul  his  companions  has  attracted  the  attention 
and  called  forth  the  svmi)athies  of  the  civilized  world. 
This  government,  Sir,  has  been  indilferent  to  the  call. 
An  application,  an  a[»])eal  was  nuuletothis  government 
of  no  ordinary  cliaracter ;  one  which  was  cheeri'ull}' 
entertained  by  the  President,  and  which  he  was  anxiouii 
should  be  complied  with.  But  it  is  known  to  the  conn 
try  and  to  the  Senate  that,  altlunigh  the  President  had 
every  disposition  to  eeiul  out  an  exi)edition  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Franklin,  it  was  found  ui)on  in([uiry  that 
we  had  no  ships  iitted  for  the  occasion,  and  that  the 
Executive  had  no  authority  to  procure  them  for  an  ex- 
pedition of  this  kind,  and  suitable  for  this  sort  of  navi- 
gation. The  Executive  was  therefore  obliged,  for  want 
of  authority  to  build  the  ships,  to  forego  further  action 
on  this  noble  enterprise,  until  Congress  should  meet, 
and  authorize  the  expedition. 

"In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Grinnell,  one  of  the  most 
res]>ectable  and  worthy  merchants  of  the  city  of  New 
York,  understanding  the  ditticulty  that  the  government 
bad  in  fitting  out  the  expedition,  has  gone  to  work,  and 
with  his  own  means  has  built  two  small  vessels  espe- 
cially prepared  for  the  expedition;  and  he  iiow  most 
jjenerouslv  tenders  them  to  the  government,  not  to  be 
nnder  his  own  control,  but  the  control  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  to  be  made  part  of  the  navy  of  the  United 
States.  The  honorable  senator  from  Alabama  (INlr. 
King)  is  mistaken  with  regard  to  the  terms  and  effect 
of  this  resolution.  This  resolution  places  those  two 
ships  under  the  control  of  the  government,  as  much 
so  as  if  they  were  built  expressly  for  tlie  navy  of  the 
United  Slates.  Their  direction,  their  iitting  out,  theii 
oflic.eiN  and  men,  are  a'l  to  be  nnder  the  control  of 
the   Kxecutive.     Tiieir  o Ulcers  are  to  be  oflicers  of  our 


1^. 


DEBATE    ]N    CONORKSl 


337 


navy  — their  seamen  the  seamen  of  our  navy  —  so  that 
tlie  expedition  will  be  as  thoroughly  under  the  control  of 
this  fJjovermnent  as  if  the  ships  belonged  to  us.  iNow, 
Sir,  1  .should  have  no  objections  myself  to  amend  this 
resolution  so  as  to  authorize  the  purcliuse  of  these  two 
siiiiill  vessels  at  once,  and  make  them  a  part  of  our  na- 
val establishment;  but,  when  1  recollecc  the  magnani- 
mous feeling  whicli  urged  this  noble-hearted  merchant 
to  ))nipare  these  ships,  1  know  that  that  same  feeling 
would  forbid  him  to  make  merchandise  of  that  which 
he  has  devoted  to  humanity,  lie  oilers  them  for  this 
great  cause  ;  they  are  his  property,  prepared  for  this 
enterprise,  and  he  oilers  them  to  us  to  be  used  by  the 
government  in  this  great  undertaking.  AVe  must  either 
accc[)t  them  for  the  puri)Ose  to  which  he  has  dedicated 
them,  or  reject  them  altogether.  If  we  refuse  these 
Bhii)S,  we  will  defeat  the  whole  enterprise,  and  lose  all 
0})p()rtunity  of  participation  in  a  work  of  humanity 
•which  now  commands  the  attention  of  the  world. 

"  If  we  refer  this  resolution  back  to  the  committee, 
and  they  report  a  bill  authorizing  government  to  build 
ships  to  carry  on  the  expedition  on  its  own  account,  it 
would  be  attended  with  v<  '-y  great  delay,  and,  in  my 
ojiinion  defeat  the  object  we  have  in  view.  In  a  case 
oi'this  kind  time  is  every  thing.  It  must  be  done  s])eed- 
ily,  if  done  at  all.  Every  houi-'s  delay  may  be  worth 
the  life  of  a  man.  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  compan- 
ions may  ere  this  have  perished,  but  our  hope  is  that 
they  are  still  living  in  some  narrow  sea,  imprisoned  by 
walls  of  ice,  where  our  succor  may  yet  reach  them. 
But,  Sir,  whether  our  hopes  are  fallacious  or  not,  the 
public  feeling  —  the  feeling  of  humanity  —  is,  that  the 
fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin  should,  if  possible,  be  ascer- 
tained, and  as  soon  as  possible.  The  public  mind  will 
never  be  satisfied  till  an  expedition  from  this  country, 
or  from  some  other  countrv,  shall  have  ascertained  their 
fate.  I  therefore  trust  that  this  resolution,  as  it  is,  will 
be  acted  upon  at  once,  and  that  it  will  receive  the 
unnnimous  vote  of  the  Semite.     *  *  *  ■'^' 

"I  am  so  ini])ressed  W\\  President,  with  the  impor- 
i3* 


*R«i 


m 

>i'3  ■■( 

■'4 


t  i 

'A  i  L. 


338 


Plid^ESS    OF    AliOTlO    inSCOVEKY. 


tance  of  time  as  regards  the  disposal  of  this  question, 
that  1  hesitate  even  to  occupy  the  attention  of  the 
Senate  for  a  few  moments  ;  and  I  only  do  so  for  the 
purpose  of  correcting  some  views  wliich  have  been  ex- 
pressed by  the  senator  from  Mississippi.  *  *  *  The 
question  is,  whether  we  shall  adopt  tliis  resolution,  and 
inmiediately  send  forth  tliis  expedition  for  the  ])urjK)se 
of  accomplisliing  this  great  object,  or  whetlier  we  shall 
throw  back  this  resolution  to  drag  its  slow  course 
through  Congress,  in  the  form  of  another  bill,  to  make 
an  appropriation  for  the  purpose  of  building  vessels. 
For  what  object?  To  secure,  as  the  senator  says,  to  the 
United  States,  the  sole  honor  and  glory  of  this  expedi- 
tion. Sir,  if  this  expedition  is  got  up  merely  for  honor 
and  glory  eitlier  to  the  United  States  or  to  an  individual, 
I  will  have  notliing  wliatever  to  do  with  it.  Sir,  there 
is  a  deeper  and  a  higher  sentiment  that  has  induced  the 
action  of  Congress  on  this  subject.  It  is  to  engage  in 
a  great  work  of  Inimanity,  to  do  that  which  is  not  only 
being  done  by  the  government  of  England,  but  by  pri- 
vate individuals,  who  ai'e  litting  out  expeditions  at  their 
own  expense,  and  sending  them  to  the  northern  seas, 
for  the  purpose  of  discovering  the  fate  of  this  great 
man,  who  had  periled  his  life  in  the  cause  of  science 
and  of  commerce. 

"  Mr  President,  I  have  been  informed  that  a  private 
expedition  is  now  being  fitted  out  in  England  under  tlie 
direction  of  that  great  commander,  or  I  may  call  liim 
the  king  of  the  Polar  Seas,  Sir  John  Iloss,  who  is  going 
again  to  devote  himself  and  his  life  to  this  perilous  ex- 
pedit'on.  Sir,  altogether  I  have  not  had  heretofore 
much  confidence  in  the  success  of  this  expedition,  yet 
when  I  consider  the  reputation  of  Sir  John  Ross,  and 
the  fact  that  he  is  better  acquainted  with  those  seas 
than  any  other  man  living,  and  understanding  that  he 
entertains  the  belief  tljat  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
companions  are  yet  alive,  and  may  be  rescued,  —  I  say, 
finding  such  a  man  as  Sir  John  lioss  engaged  in  an  ex- 
pedition of  th's  kind,  I  am  not  without  hope  that  our 
eftbrts  may,  under  Providence,  be  crowned  with  success. 


DEBATE    IN    CONGIiJ:SS. 


339 


ex- 
bre 
yet 
and 
eas 
he 
his 

ay, 

ex- 
our 

ess. 


But  the  honorable  senator  says  that  nothinf^  ia  likely  to 
be  derived  from  this  expedition  but  honor  and  glory, 
and  that  that  is  to  be  divided  between  tlie  government 
of  the  United  States  and  a  private  individual.  Sir,  i8 
there  nothing  to  be  derived  iVomtlie  performance  of  an 
act  of  humanity  but  honor  and  glory?  Sir,  it  is  said 
that  in  this  instance  both  the  government  and  the  in<li- 
vidual  alluded  to  are  engaged  in  the  sjime  work.  Well, 
Sir,  what  objection  can  tliere  be  to  that  connection  ? 
Does  tiie  honorable  senator  from  Mississippi  envy  the 
individual  his  share  of  the  honor  and  glory  ?  Does  he 
desire  to  monopolize  it  all  to  the  United  States  ?  I  hope 
he  has  no  sucli  feeling  as  that. 

"But,  Mr.  President,  the  honorable  senator  made  use 
of  an  expression  whicli  I  tliink  he  will  withdraw.  He 
intimated,  if  I  \md(;rstood  him  rightly,  some  suspicion 
that  this  was  a  matter  of  speculation  on  the  part  of  Mr. 
Grinnell. 

"Mr.  Foote:  I  said  I  had  heard  such  a  thing  sug- 
gested ;  but  I  do  not  make  any  such  charge  myself. 

"  Mr.  MiixKii :  I  have  iieard  this  urged  as  an  objec- 
tion heretofore,  but  I  am  satisfied  that  if  the  senator 
from  Mississippi  knew  tlie  character  and  the  history  of 
this  gentleman,  he  would  not  even  repeat  tliat  he  had 
heard  such  an  insinuation.  Sir,  although  this  is  a 
liberal  donation  from  an  individual,  the  sum  need  not 
alarm  gentlemen  about  after  claims.  These  ships  are 
but  small  ships  ;  and  it  is  necessary  that  they  should  bo 
small  in  order  that  they  may  be  effective.  One  of  them 
is,  1  understand,  150  tons,  and  the  other  00  tons.  They 
have  cost,  I  believe,  30.000  dollai's.  Now,  when  we 
iind  this  mercliant  devoting  his  property,  not  for  tlie 
purpose  of  building  ships  to  convey  merchandise  to  the 
markets  of  the  world  ;  when  we  iind  him  retiring  from 
the  ordinary  course  of  connnercial  pursuit  in  which  all 
the  world  is  engaged,  and  devoting  a  portion  of  his 
fortune  to  the  building  of  ships  that  can  be  used  for  no 

this  vovaire  of  hum 


othei 


purpose 


but 


ity, 


imagined  that  any  thought  of  speculation  on  his  part 
could  have  influenced  liis  conduct?     No,  Sir.     On  the 


"? 


f  i- 


n 


it  ^ 


310 


PKOOlilCSS   OF   AUCriO   DISCOVERY. 


contniiy,  it  is  ji  hioli  uiul  wortliy  motive  ;  and  I  think 
it  ouglit  to  receive  the  approbation  of  th.'s  and  all  otlier 
intelligent  Cliristian  nations^  to  see  a  merciiant,  who, 
while  the  conuuercial  world  are  encompassing  the 
globe  by  sea  and  land  in  quest  of  prolit  and  of  gold,  is 
dedicating  himself  to  his  groat  object,  and  devoting  a 
part  of  his  fortune  to  the  cause  of  humanity,  and  olfer- 
ing  to  government,  not  as  a  bounty,  but  because  the 
government,  with  all  its  means,  has  not  the  power  and 
the  time  to  prepare  vessela  to  do  tiiis  work.  That,  ISir, 
is  the  object. 

"  !Now,  if  we  do  not  accei)t  these  shi])s,  there  will  be 
an  end  of  this  exi)edition.  Sir,  shall  it  be  said,  that 
this  government  has  lost  sucli  an  opportunity  as  this  of 
exhibiting  the  dee])  interest  which  our  people  feel  both 
in  the  cause  of  science  and  hunumity,  and  that,  too,  at 
the  very  time  when  we  are  entering  into  treaties  and  com- 
pacts with  all  the  conuuercial  nations  of  the  world,  for 
the  purpose  of  extending  connnerce  and  civilization, 
and  opening  communications  of  trade  from  sea  to  sea'^ 
"When  the  government  is  not  t>nly  doing  all  by  its  own 
power,  but  also  acting  in  concert  with  our  private  citi- 
zens in  constructing  rail-roads  and  canals,  and  by  vari- 
ous other  modes  extending  commercial  civilization 
throughout  the  world,  shall  it  be  said  that  we,  at  this 
moment,  refused,  througji  the  fear  of  losing  a  little 
honor  and  glory  and  national  dignity,  to  accei3t  two 
Bhips  —  the  only  two  ships  in  America  that  can  do  the 
work  —  in  the  accomplishment  of  this  great  enterprise'^ 
I  hope  not.  Let  us  not,  then,  cavil  and  w^aste  time 
about  these  little  matters.  If  the  work  is  to  be  done 
at  all  it  must  be  done  now,  and  done,  as  I  conceive,  by 
the  adoption  of  this  resolution. 

Governor  Sewakq  spoke  as  follows  in  the  Senate 
on  the  same  sid)ject :  —  "I  am  liap]>y  to  perceive,  Mr. 
President,  indications  all  around  the  chand)er  that  there 
is  no^  disagreement  in  regard  to  tlie  importance,  or  in 
relation  to  the  pi'oi)riety.  of  a  search  on  the  ])art  of  this 
nation,  by  the  government  itself,  or  ])y  individual  citi- 
zens, for  the  lost  and  heroic  navigator.     Since  so  much 


UKUATK    IN   CONGRESS. 


341 


aition 

this 

little 

t  two 

lu  tllG 

rise  ? 
time 
clone 
e,  by 

lenate 

b,  Mr. 
I  there 
lor  in 
If  this 
eiti- 
iiiuch 


is  conceded,  and  since  I  come  from  the  State  whence 
this  pro])osition  emanates,  I  desire  to  notice,  in  a  very 
few  words,  the  objections  raised  a<jjaiiist  the  mode  of 
carryini^  tiie  proposed  desi<rii  into  elfect.     It  is  always 
the  case,  I  think,  when  gi'eat  objects  and  fjreat  enter- 
prises winch  are  feasibUi  are  hindered  or  defeated,  that 
they  are  hindered  or  defeated,  not  so  miicii  by  want  of 
a.i^reement  concerning  tiie  measures  themselves,  as  by 
diversity  of  opinion  concerning'  tiie  mode  of  carryinj^ 
them  into  execution.     Since  tin's  is  so  generally  the 
case,  the  rule  wliich  I  always  adopt,  and  wliich  seems 
to  be  a  safe  one,  is,  that  wliere  I  cannot  have  my  own 
way  of  obtaining  a  great  public  object,  I  will  accept 
the  best  otlier  way  wiiicli  o|)ens  ])efore  me.     Kow,  I 
cordially  Jigree  with    those   lionorable    Scnatt.rs  who 
would  have  preferred  that  at  some  appropriiite  time, 
and  in  some  pro])er  and  unobjectionaoie  manner,  the 
government  should  have  moved  for  the  attainment  of 
this  object,  as  a  government,  and  liave  made  it  exclu- 
sively the  act  of  the  nation.     And  I  would  liave  pre- 
ferred this,  not  so  much  on  account  of  the  glory  that  it 
is  supposed  would  have  followed  it,  as  because  of  the 
beneiicence   of   the    enterprise.      Enterprises   Mdiich 
spririg  from  a  desire  of  glory  are  very  apt  to  end  in 
disappointment.     True  national  glory  is  always  safely 
attained  by  prosecuting  beneficent  designs,  whatever 
may  be  their  success.     1  say.  Sir,  then,  that  I  w(»nld 
have  preferred  the  alternative  suggested ;  but  the  fact 
is,  without  stopping  to  incpiire  where  the  fault  lies,  or 
whether  there  be  fault  at  all,  the  government  has  not 
moved,  and  the  reason  which  has  been  assigned  is,  I 
have  no  doubt,  the  true  one.     I  do  not  know  that  it 
has  ever  been  contradicted  or  called  in  question ;  that 
reason  is,  that  the  Navv  of  the  United  States  contains 
no  vessels  adapted  to  the  enterprise,  but  consists  of 
ships  constructed  and  fitted  for  very  diiferent  objects 
and  jKirposes  than  an  exploring  expedition  amid  the 
ice-bound  seas  of  the  arctic  pole.     Our  naval  marine 
consists  of  vessels  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  convoys, 
military  armament,  and  the  suppression  of  the  slave- 


■%m 


342 


PROGRESS    OF   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


m 


trade  on  the  coast  of  Afric.i.  The  executive  portions 
of  tlie  government  failed  for  want  of  vessels  suitable 
to  be  employed  in  this  particular  service.  It  therefore 
devolved  upon  the  Legislature  of  the  United  States. 
But,  although  we  have  been  here  now  nearly  five 
months,  no  Committee  of  either  House,  no  member  of 
either  House  of  Congress  has  proposed  to  equip  a  na- 
tional fleet  for  this  purpose.  While  this  fact  exists  on 
one  side,  it  is  to  be  remarked  on  the  other,  that  the 
time  has  arrived  in  which  the  movement  must  be  made 
if  it  is  to  be  made  at  all,  and  also  that  a  careful  inves- 
tigation, made  by  scientific  and  practical  men,  has  re- 
vived the  hope  in  Europe  and  iVmerica  that  the  humane 
object  can  be  attained.  There  can,  then,  be  no  delay 
allowed  for  considering  whether  the  manner  for  carry- 
ing the  design  into  effect  could  not  be  changed.  Let 
us,  then,  practically  survey  the  case  as  it  comes  before 
us.  The  government  of  the  (Inited  States  has  really 
no  vessels  adapted  to  the  purpose.  To  say  nothing  of 
the  expense,  the  government  has  not  time  to  provide, 
prepare,  or  equip  vessels  for  the  exjiediHon.  Under 
such  circumstances,  a  citizen  of  the  United  States 
tenders  to  the  government  vessels  of  his  own,  }>recisely 
adequate  in  number,  and  exactly  fitted  in  construction 
and  equipment,  for  the  performance  of  the  duty  to  be 
assumed.  Since  he  offers  them  to  tlie  government, 
what  reason  can  we  assign  for  I'efnsing  them  ?  No 
reason  can  be  assigned,  except  that  he  is  too  generous, 
and  offers  to  (/ive  us  the  use  of  the  vessels  instead  of 
demanding  compensation  for  it.  Well,  Sir,  if  we  do 
accept  them  it  can  be  immediately  carried  into  execu- 
tion, with  a  cheering  prospect  of  attaining  the  great 
object  which  the  United  States  and  the  civilized  world 
liave  such  deep  interest  in  securing.  Then  the  ques- 
tion resolves  itself  into  this  —  the  question  raised  by 
the  honorable  Senator  from  Alabama  (Mr,  King) — • 
whether,  in  seeking  so  beneficent  an  object,  it  is  con- 
sistent with  the  dignity  of  the  nation  to  combine  indi- 
vidual action  with  a  national  enterjirise.  I  do  not 
think,  Mr.  President,  that  that  honorable  Senator  will 


DEBATE    IN   CONGRESS. 


US 


find  himself  oblinred  to  insist  upon  tliis  objection  ai'ter 
he  siiall  have  carefully  examined  the  bill  before  us. 
He  will  find  that  it  converts  the  undertaking  into  a 
national  enter|)rise.  The  vessels  are  to  be  accepted 
not  as  individual  property,  but  as  national  vessels. 
They  will  absolutely  cease  to  be  under  the  direction, 
management,  or  control  of  the  owners,  and  will  become 
at  once  national  hips,  and  for  the  time,  at  least,  and 
for  all  the  purposes  of  the  expedition,  a  part  of  the 
national  marine. 

"Now,  Sir,  have  we  not  postal  arrangements  with 
various  foreign  countries  carried  into  effect  in  the  same 
way,  and  is  the  dignity  of  the  nation  compromised  by 
them  ?  During  the  war  with  Mexico,  the  government 
continually  hired  shij^s  and  steamboats  from  citizens  for 
military  operations.  Is  the  glory  of  tiuxt  war  tarnished 
uv  the  use  of  those  means?  The  government  in  this 
case,  as  m  those  cases,  is  in  no  sense  a  partner.  It 
assumes  the  whole  control  of  the  vessels,  and  the  enter- 
prise becomes  a  national  one.  The  only  circumstance 
remaining  to  be  considered  is,  whether  the  government 
can  accept  the  loan  of  the  service  of  the  vessels  without 
making  compensation.  Kow,  Sir,  I  should  not  have  had 
the  least  objection,  and,  indeed,  it  would  have  been 
more  agreeable  to  me  if  the  government  could  have 
made  an  arrangement  to  have  paid  a  compensation. 
But  I  hold  it  to  be  quite  unnecessary  in  the  present 
case  because  the  character  of  the  person  who  tenders 
these  vessels,  and  the  circumstances  and  manner  of  the 
whole  transaction,  show  that  it  is  not  a  speculation. 
No  compensation  is  wanted.  It  would  only  be  a  cere- 
mony on  the  part  of  the  government  to  offer  it,  and  a 
ceremony  on  the  part  of  the  merchant  to  decline  it.  I 
am,  therefore,  willing  to  march  directly  to  the  object, 
and  to  assume  that  these  ceremonies  have  been  duly 
performed,  that  the  government  has  offered  to  pay,  and 
the  noble-spirited  merchant  declined  to  receive. 

"Now,  then,  is  there  any  thing  derogatory  from  the 
dignity  and  independence  of  this  nation  in  emjiloying 
the  vessels?     Certainly  not,  since  that  employment  is 


m 


m 


ml 


I 


1.  ■.•»-?.  1' 


t} 


M 


■;*5 

w. 
m 


nil 


rUCHJKKSt*    OV    AKCTIC    lUHlHtVKUY. 


iihlisjH'11'^jiMo.  If  it.  weiv  not  iiidisiHMJsuMo  1  do  not 
flunk  fliiU.  the  dignity  of  tlio  lu'piiMic.  woidd  l)0  im- 
j>;iiri'<l  ;  I  tliink,  on  tl»o  contnirv,  that  it  winihl  bo  i-n- 
nanci'd  and  I'lovatod.  It  is  u  transaction  worthy  of  tho 
nati(tn,  u  sjn'i'taclo  dosorvini^  tiio  coutcn'itiation  and 
n-spiH't  of  mankind,  to  hoi^  that  not  only  does  thi^  nation 
|trosi't'\jtt',  Imt  that  it  has  citi/ons  '>.!*Io  and  willint^  to 
fontrihijto,  voluntarily  and  without  compulsion,  to  an 
cntiM'jU'iso  so  ii\t(.MVstin<jj  to  (  cause  of  iscicncc  and  of 
hunwinity.  It  is  indeed  a  new  an<l  distinct  cause  for 
national  i)ride,  that  an  individual  citizen,  not  a  merchant 
j>iince,  as  he  would  he  called  in  some  «>ther  countries, 
but  a  republican  merchant,  comes  forward  in  this  way 
and  moves  the  ji;overnmtMit  and  co-opi-rates  Mith  it.  Ifc 
illustrates  the  nuiji-nanimitv  of  the  nation  and  of  the 
citi/^en.  Sir,  there  is  nothinij;  objectionabh^  in  this  fea- 
ture of  the  transaction.  It  results  from  the  character 
of  the  ii'overnment,  which  is  essentially  popular,  that 
there  are  ])erpetual  debate^?  on  the  (juestion  how  far 
measures  and  enterprises,  for  the  purposes  of  humanity 
and  sciiMice,  are  consistent  with  the  constitutional  or- 
ijani/ation  of  the  ti^overnment,  althouufh  they  art^  ad- 
n\itted  to  be  eminently  compatible  with  the  dignity, 
character,  and  intelliujence  of  the  nation.  All  our  en- 
terjirises,  more  or  less,  are  carried  into  execution,  if 
thev  are  carried  into  execution  at  all,  nctt  bv  the  direct 
action  of  the  iijovcrnment,  but  by  the  icivlini?  of  its 
favor,  countenance,  and  aid  to  individuals,  to  corj)ora- 
tions,  and  to  States.  Thus  it  is  that  we  construct  rail- 
roads and  canals,  and  found  colle<»;es  and  universities. 
"Nor  is  this  mode  (.)f  ])rosecuting  enterprises  of  iijreat 
pith  and  moment  peculiar  to  this  <rovermnent.  There 
was  a  navijjjator  who  went  forth  from  a  port  in  Spain, 
some  three  or  four  hundivd  years  aijo,  on  an  enter])i'iso 
quite  as  doubtful  and  quite  as  ])erilous  as  this.  After 
trvinorunsuccessfullv  several  States,  he  was  forced  to  be 
content  with  the  sanction,  and  little  more  than  the  sanc- 
tion and  patronage  i>f  the  Court  of  "Madrid.  The  scanty 
treasu'-es  devoted  to  that  undertaldni*  were  the  ])rivato 
contribitions  of  a  Queen  and  her  subjects,  and  the  vcs- 


DKIIATK  IN  c;oN(;i{r;sa. 


uc> 


I  liero 
pain. 


Hcls  w'vw  lilted  out  and  nuuiiiod  ut  tlio  ox|»ensi»  ot'inor- 
I'liiiiits  and  citizens,  wliicli  ojivo  u  now  \V(»rld  to  tlio 
l<iii«;<loni  of  (vaslilci  and  Leon. 

'*  I'lntertainiiiii;  tlu'se  views  imw,  whatever  my  o|>inion 
niiii'lit  have  heen  iMi(h'r  other  eircnnistances,  I  shiJi  voto 
against  a  reeonnniltal,  and  in  liivor  ot' the  hill,  as  tiio 
snrestway  of  |H'eventini;'  its  defeat,  and  of  attain inii;  tiio 
sid»Iiine  and   henelicent  ohjeet  whieh   it  eonteniplatcs." 

The  eonnnittee  of  h(»lli  JIousi's  ol"  ('on<;ress,  to  wiioni 
T\rr.  (JrinnelPs  [)etition  for  men  and  su[»|)lies  was  re- 
t'erred,  made  a  unanimous  report  in  favor;  and  the 
vessels  left  on  tiieir  (hii'inL>;  and  ^-enerons  errand. 

The  foUowinij;  are  thi^  j(»int  resointions  whieh  passed 
Itoth  llonses  of  (■on<;ress  and  were  a|)j)rove<|  hy  (ien- 
eral  Ta}dor,  anthori/ini>;  the  President  of  tiic  Tnited 
States  to  ae('e])t  and  attach  to  the  (T.  S.  Navy  the  two 
vessels,  offered  l»y  Afr.  (Jrimiell,  to  be  pent  to  the  arctic 
Beas  in  searcli  of  Sirflohn  Franklin  and  his  companions: 

"Resolved  hy  the  Si-nate  and  llonso  of  Jicpresent- 
atives  of  the  llnittid  States  of  America  in  Con<»res8 
ussend)led,  That  tiie  President  he,  und  'io  is  hereby 
anthorized  and  directed,  to  receive  frt>m  Henry  (Jrinneli, 
of  the  city  «if  New  York,  tin;  two  vessels  prejtared  by 
hitn  for  ail  expedition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Pranklin 
and  his  companions,  and  to  detail  from  the  Navy  such 
commissioned  and  warrant  otllcers,  and  so  many  sea- 
men as  niav  be  necessarv  for  said  exiiedition,  and  who 
may  be  willin_«»;  to  en|L!:a«i;(;  therein.  The  said  otlicers 
and  men  shall  be  furnished  with  suitable  rations,  at  the 
discretion  of  the  President,  for  ii  ]>eriod  not  exceed in<jj 
three  years,  and  shall  have  the  nse  of  such  nec(!ssary 
instruments  as  are  now  on  hand  and  can  l)es]>jired  from 
the  Navy,  to  be  accounted  for  or  returned  by  the  ofli- 
cers  M'lu>  shall  receive  the  same. 

"  Skc.  2.  T>G  it  further  resolved.  That  the  said  vessels, 
ofHcers,  and  men  shall  be  in  all  resiK-ctsimder  the  laws 
and  reii^ulations  of  the  Navy  of  the  United  States  until 
their  retm-n.  when  the  Bai<l  vessels  shall  be  delivered 
to  the  said  Henry  CJrinnell :  Provided,  That  the  United 
States  shall  not  be  liable  to  any  claim  for  coiTipensation 


■iWi 


'iJi 


f    > 


t»; 


m 

.-  "if 


t.    ^ 


m 


4    I 

•t 

vie 


I]|i5 


I'i;(»(iWi:SH   OV  AfMTK!    IUHCOVKUY. 


in  cnsc^  of  tin*  loss,  (lsiiMa^i>(»r  dt'ti'i'Iunvtion  of  tlic  Kuid 
vcsrtt'ls,  (»r  rilluT  of  tliom,  tVctiii  uiiy  cause  or  in  any 
nianiu'i'  whuti'vcr,  nor  he  liaMo  to  any  dcniand  for  tlio 
lisc  (»!■  risk  of  tlu-  said  vi-s.-rls  or  I'illicr  of  tlicni.'" 

Dii'fctiy  tlic  fact  Inrainc  I<no\\n  tiiat  flic  American 
trovi'i'nnicnt  had  nohly  conic  forward  to  aid  in  tiic  search 
which  was  Ikmu:^  s(»  strcnuoii'^iy  nuuh',  the  different 
learned  societies  ot'the  metropolis  vied  with  cacli  oidier  , 
in  testifvinij  the  e-timation  in  which  this  nohio  conduct 
was  held. 

At  till-  annual  nieeiino-  ,,('  the  Uoval  Society,  on  Iho 
Till  of  .luiii',  ni»on  the  motion  of  Sir  (^harles  Lennt)X, 
hceondetl  l»y  the  late  Marquis  of  Noi'tliamjit(»n,  a  vote 
of  thanks  was  carried  with  the  utmost  enthusiasm,  e.\- 
jTis^ive  of  the  ijjratitiide  of  the  Soeiety  to  the  Anii'rican 
<io\ernment,  ami  of  their  <le(>i>  seiisi^  of  the  kind  and 
hrotlierly  feeling'  which  had  |)romi>ted  s(>  liheral  an  act 
of  hnmanitv.  A  simihii*  \dte  was  cari'ied,  on  the  lltli 
of  dune,  at  a  n'eiuM-al  nuH'tiiiin'  of  the  Ivoyal  (Jeoo-raph- 
ical  Society,  [of  whieli  Sii'  .John  Franklin  was  long  uuo 
of  the  vice-jiresidents.') 

The  Anu'i'ican  expedition  consists  of  two  briijantinea 
—  now  iMirolK'd  in  the  I'liited  Stati>s  Navy — the  Ad- 
vance, of  111  tons,  and  the  lu'scue,  !)[  tons.  These 
vessels  have  heen  ])rovided  and  fitted  out  hy  the  ijjener- 
ous  niunitieence  of  M^r.  Henry  (Ti-imu'll,  a  merchant  of 
Xew  York,  at  an  expense  to  him  of  hetween  5000'.  and 
t!;'  ••»',  The  American  u'ovei'nment  also  did  nmch  to- 
U'ard  iittiiiLT  and  e(pn]>])ini>'  tliem.  Tin;  Advance  was  - 
t', 'o  yeai's  old.  and  the  liescue  (piite  new.  l>oth  vessels 
were  stren'j;thened  in  every  pai't.  and  ]>ut  in  the  most 
com])lete  order  for  the  service  in  which  they  were  to  be 
eniiaL;:ed.  Tlu'v  are  under  tlie  conunand  of  Lieutenant 
Iviwanl  S.  De  llavi'u.  who  was  emploved  in  Com- 
mander AVilkes'  expedition  in  1S48  ;  Mr.'S.  P.  Gritfm, 
aetinii"  master,  has  char<j:;e  of  the  Tie  eue.  The  other 
ollieers  of  the  expeilition  are  "Messrs.  AV.  IT.  ]\rurdau'rh, 
acti iiii'-n Ulster  ;  T.  A\^  P)ro:idhead,  and  Tt.  11.  Caricr, 
passed  midshijmien  ;  Dr.  K.  Iv.  Tvane,  ]>assed  assistant- 
surgeon  ;  jMr.  Benjann'n  Finland,  assistant-surgeon  ;  W 


TFIIQ    AMKIU<"AN    KXI'KDITION. 


347 


S  Novell,  luidshijiniiin  ;  II.  T>r«)o1<H,  ])oat.swaIn  ;  and  a 
(•(.  (ipli'iiii'iit  of  tliii'ty-six  K«.'jiiiic'H  in  tlie  two  vcssrls  — 
tlui  iTow  of  tlui  Advuiict;  coiL^i^tiii;^  of  lifrt'cn  iticii,  and 
t\\(.'  UcHCMii!  tliii'ti'cn  iiii'ii.  The  vc,>-si'Ih  left  Mew  V«»rk 
oti  tlio  iJatli  of  May,  ls,">(>.  Tlii-ir  ]»rt>j»os('d  dc-tiiialioti 
is  tlironii^Ii  Harrow's  Strait,  wc.-tward  to  ("a|»c  Wnlker, 
and  r(Miii<l  !Mclvillo  Ibland.  riicy  wcri.!  [)rovibii  iicd  I'or 
tlirco  vrais. 

AVIiati'viT  may  Ix^  tlio  result  of  t]\U  oxjx'dition,  as 
connected  with  tlie  fatu  of  the  jn'alhmt  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin, it  is  one  whidi  I'l'lleets  the  hin'hi'st  h(Hior  upon  tho 
]>hihinthro]>i(r  individual  who  ]>ro)i'cted  it,  and  u[ton  tho 
ollieers  and  men  en<^;i<j;ed  therein. 

A  disj>ateh  lias  Keen  reeeive<l  from  Lieutenant  Do 
JIaven,  datinl  oil'  LeopoM  Ishmd,  Aui/;ust  '2-2(1^  wliieh 
n'])ort-i  the  |)roi!:ress  of  the  ex))e(lition  thus  fill*.  'J'ho 
Advane(»,  in  eotiij)any  with  iier  cousoi-t,  tiic  iieseue, 
sailed  from  the  Wiiale  Fish  Islands  on  the  21)th  of  Juno; 
after  many  delays  and  obstructions  from  calms,  stream 
ice,  and  tlu^  main  ]>aek,  they  forced  a  i>assni;e  thi'ou^h 
it  for  a  considerable  distance,  but  at  Inst  i>-(>t  wed-^ed  jip 
in  the  ])ack  innn(»vably  until  tlui  2!)th  of  July,  wIk'U 
by  a  sudden  movenu'iit  of  tlie  floes,  an  o|H'nin^!f  pre- 
sented itself,  aiul  nnder  a  ])ress  of  sail  the  vessels  forced 
tlieii-  way  into  clear  water.  Tlu^y  encountered  a  heavy 
^ale,  Avhich,  with  a  thick  ton;,  made  their  situation  very 
danc:eroua,  the  Iniij;!'  masses  of  ice  beiniij  driven  along 
by  the  strength  of  the  wind  and  current  v/itli  gi-eat 
fury.  V>y  the  aid  of  war])ing  in  culm  weather,  they 
readied  Cape  Yoi-ke  on  tlie  I'lth  of  August,  and  a  littkj 
to  the  eastward  met  \vith  two  Esoiiiuiaux,  but  could  not 
understand  much  from  them.  Between  Capo  Vorko 
and  Cape  Dudley  Diggs,  M'hile  delayed  by  calms,  being 
in  o])en  water,  they  hauled  the  ships  into  the  shore  at: 
the  Crimson  Cliffs  of  ]>everley,  (so  named  fiom  the  red 
snow  on  them,)  and  filled  their  water  casks  from  a 
mountain  stream. 

On  the  ISth,  with  a  fair  Miiid,they  shnped  their  course 
for  the  western  side  of  EatHiTs  Bay,  nnd  met  the  pack  in 
streams  and  very  loose,  which  they  cleared  entirely  by 


ii 


ifr 


•'■'t?;l 


hh: 


II 


m 


11?   '' 


W[ 


848 


ritOGRESS   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


li 


;  I  I 


tl»e  t< )llo\vii)<j^ (lay  —  fi;ett*m<:j  into tlio  nortli  waters,  mIkto 
tlioy  toll  in  witii  Captain  Prnny'si  two  vessols,  Aviiicli 
liavin<ji;  been  unsncccsistul  in  thtir  cH'orts  to  cMitcrJum-.s' 
8unn(l,  "Were  now  taking  the  same  course  up  LancastiT 
Pound.  On  tlie  IDtli,  in  a  violent  <;ale,  the  Adviince 
])arte(l  coni])any  Mith  the  Ileseue.  On  the  niorniii<^  of 
the  21fit  of  AuLJust,  the  fo<«:  cleared,  and  JJeutenant  Do 
JIaven  found  he  M'as  oil'  ()aj)e  Crawford,  on  the  south 
ern  shore  of  the  Sound.  Here  he  fell  in  with  the  Felix 
Bchooner,  under  (yaj)tain  Sir  John  Uoss,  from  M'hom  ho 
learned  that  Commodor(!  Austin  was  at  Pond's  Hay  with 
two  of  his  vessels,  seeking  for  informatitui,  mImIc  tho 
N,  other  two  had  been  dispatched  to  examine  the  north 
shore  of  the  Sound.  Lieutenant  ])e  Haven  ])roposed 
jiroccedinfj  on  from  Port  J.eojjold  to  AV^ellitiii:ton  ('han- 
nel,  the  appointed  place  of  rendezvous  with  liis  consort. 

Captain  Forsyth's  Riitsiarkadle  Yoyaoe  in  the 
"Prince  Alijert."' 

In  April,  1850,  a  branch  expedition  to  aid  those  ves- 
sels sent  out  by  the  «]fovermnent  was  determined  on  by 
Lady  Fraiddin,  who  contributed  largely  toward  its  out- 
lit  ;  u  considerable  sum  being  also  raised  by  public 
6ubscrii)tion.  The  expenses  of  this  expedition  M'cro 
nearly  -iOOO/.,  of  which  2500/.  were  contributed  by  Latly 
Franklin  herself.  The  object  of  this  expedition  was 
the  providing  for  the  search  of  si  portion  of  the  Arctic 
Sea,  which  it  was  distinctly  understood  could  not  be 
executed  by  the  vessels  under  Captain  Austin  ;  but  tho 
importance  of  which  had  been  set  forth,  by  arctic  and 
other  authorities,  in  documents  printed  ill  the  Parlia- 
mentary Papers. 

The  iniprovided  portion  alluded  to,  includes  Tlegent 
Inlet,  and  the  passages  connecting  it  with  the  western 
sea,  James  Iloss's  Strait,  and  other  localities,  S,  W.  of 
Cape  "Walker,  to  which  quarter  Sir  John  Franklin  Avas 
required  by  his  instructions  to  proceed  in  the  first  in- 
Btance,     This  search  is  assumed  to  be  necessary  on  the 


foil 


owing  gi'ouiuls 


voYAOE  OF  Tin:  ruiNcic  amjkut. 


3K) 


IS 


isc  ves- 
oii  by 
out- 
)ul>lic 
wero 
Lmly 
I  was 
Vrctic 

()t   1)0 

)Ut  tlio 

c  and 

'arlia- 


n  Avas 
I'st  iii- 
>n  the 


1.  Tlie  probability  of  Sir  John  Fraiihlin  liaving 
Abandoned  hi;}  vessela  to  the  S.  \V.  of  Crt[)o  Walker. 

2.  The  fact  that,  in  his  charts,  an  open  passage  is 
laid  down  from  the  west  into  the  south  part  of  Kegent 
Inlet. 

H.  Sir  John  Franklin  would  be  more  likely  to  take 
this  course  throu<:;h  a  country  known  to  possess  the  re- 
sources of  animal  life,  with  the  wreck  of  the  Victory 
in  Felix  Harbor  for  fuel,  and  the  stores  of  Fury  IJeach 
farther  iu)rth  in  view,  than  to  fall  upon  an  utterly  barren 
region  of  the  nortli  coast  of  America. 

4.  He  would  be  more  likely  to  expect  succor  to  be 
sent  to  him  by  way  of  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's 
Strait,  into  which  Regent  Inlet  opens,  than  in  any 
other  direction. 

In  corroboration  of  the  necessity  of  this  part  of  the 
search,  I  would  refer  generally  to  the  Parliamentary 
])apers  of  184:8-0  and  50.     As  an  individual  opinion,! 
nuiy  quote  the  words  of  Captain  Beecliey,  p.  31  of  the 
lirst  series.     "  If,  in   this  condition,"  (that   of  being 
hoi)elessly  blocked  up  to  the  S.  W.  of  Caj)e  Walker,) 
"  which  I  trust  may  not  be  the  case.  Sir  John  Franklin 
should  resolve  upon  taking  to  his  boats,  he  would  prefer 
attempting  a  boat  navigation  through  Sir  James  Ross's 
Strait,  and  np  Ilegent  Inlet,  to  a  long  land  journey 
across  the  continent  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Settlements, 
to  which  the  greater  ])art  of  his  crew  would  be  wholly 
unequal."     And  again,  in  his  letter  to  the  Secretary 
of  the   Admiralty,  7th   of  February,   1850,  Ca])tain 
Beechey  writes,  "  *  *  *  *  the  bottom  of  Ilegent  Iidet, 
about  the  Pelly  Islands,  shfmld  not  be  left  unexamined, 
[n  the  memorandum  submitted  to  their  Lordships,  17th 
of  January,  18-49,  this  quarter  was  considered  of  im- 
portance, and  I  am  still  of  o])inion  that  had  Sir  John 
Franklin   abandoned    his  vessels   near   the   coast   of 
America,  and  much  short  of  the  j\Iackenzie  River,  he 
would  have  preferred  the  ])robahi1ity  of  retaining  the 
use  of  his  boats  until  he  found  relief  in  Barrow's  Strait, 
to   risking   an  ovt>rlan(l  jonrnt^y  rJa  the  befoi'e-men- 
tioned  river;  mikI   it  must  he  reiiioiiihered  that  at  the 


I' 


l: 


H-.: 


■iM 


1 


350 


PKOGEE88   OF  ARCTIC  DISCOVERY. 


^1 


time  he  sailed,  Sir  George  Back's  discovery  had  ren- 
dered it  very  probal)le  that  IJootiiia  was  an  ishmd. 

The  inemoraiuhim  alluded  to  by  Captain  Beecjey 
as  havinji;  been  submitted  to  the  Lords  of  the  Admi- 
ralty ontlie  17th  of  January,  1810,  was,  the  expression 
of  tlie  unanimous  opinion  of  the  arctic  officers  assem- 
bled by  command  of  the  Admiralty  to  deliberate  u})on 
the  best  means  to  be  taken  for  the  relief  of  the  missing 
expedition  ;  and  in  this  report,  chiuse  11  is  expressly 
devoted  to  the  recommendation  of  the  search  of  Keifent 
Inlet. 

The  necessity  for  the  proposed  search  may  be  tluis 
furtiier  developed.  Sir  John  Franldin  may  have  aban- 
doned his  ships,  when  his  provisions  were  nearly  ex- 
hausted somewhere  about  the  latitude  of  73°  N.,  long. 
105'^  W. ;  in  short,  at  any  point  S.  W.  of  Cape  AValker, 
not  further  W.  than  long.  110°.  And  in  such  case, 
rather  than  return  north,  (wlilch  might  be  indeed  im- 
])racticable)  or  moving  south  upon  the  Amei'ican  Con- 
tinent, of  which  (upon  the  coast.)  the  utter  barrenness 
was  already  m'cU  known  to  him,  he  migiit  ])refer  a 
southeastern  course,  with  a  view  of  passing  in  his  boats, 
either  through  James  Iloss's,  or  through  Simpson's 
Straits,  into  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  and  so  up  into  liegent 
Inlet  to  the  house  and  stores  left  at  Fury  Beacii,  the 
only  depot  of  provisions  known  to  him.  The  advantages 
of  such  a  course  might  appear  to  him  very  great. 

1.  Two  open  passages  being  laid  down  in  his  ciuirts 
into  Regent  Inlet,  by  James  lloss's  Strait,  and  by  Simp- 
son's Strait,  a  means  of  boat  transport  for  his  party 
would  be  afforded,  of  which  alone  perhaps  their  ex- 
hausted strength  and  resources  might  admit;  such  a 
Course  would  obviously  recommend  itself  to  a  com- 
mander Avlio  had  exi)erienced  the  frightful  difficulties 
of  a  land  iournev  in  those  rcijions. 

2.  1  he  pro])osed  course  would  lead  through  a  part, 
the  Isthmus  of  J^oothia,  in  which  animal  life  is  known 
at  some  sonsons  to  abound. 

3.  The  Esquimaux  who  have  been  found  en  the 
L-timins  of  iHxttliia  are  extremely  well  disposed  and 
fi'iendly. 


bad  ren- 
liiTid. 
Beecney 
e  Ad  111  i- 
pression 
•8  assoiii- 
iite  u})Oii 
missing 
xpivssly 
:*  Kegeiit 

be  tlius 
ve  aba II- 
iiivly  ex- 

S^.,  long. 
Walker, 


ease. 


ch 
leed  ini- 
;aii  Con- 
rreiniess 
)refei'  a 
is  boats, 
mp.-;(.ni's 
'  lieiient 
aeli,  tlie 
'antaijes 
3at. 

s  cliarts 
y  Siinp- 
s  party 
jeir  ex- 
such  a 
a  com- 
iculties 

a  part, 
known 

on  tlio 
ed  and 


VOYAGE   OF   THE    I'EINCE    ALBERT. 


3aJ 


scend  Kegent  Inlet  to  a  considerable  distance  south. 

5.  Tiiere  are  two  persons  attached  to  the  expedition 
who  are  well  acquainted  with  this  region  and  its  re- 
sources—  viz.,  Mr.  Blanky,  ice  master,  and  Mr.  Mac- 
Donald,  assistant  surgeon,  of  the  Terror.  The  former 
was  with  Sir  John  Koss  in  the  Victory.  The  latter 
has  made  several  voyages  in  whaling  vessels  and  is 
acquainted  with  the  parts  lying  between  Regent  Inlet 
and  Davis'  Strait.  Whore  so  few  among  the  crews  of 
the  missing  ships  have  had  any  local  experience,  the 
concurrent  knowledge  of  two  persons  would  have 
considerable  weight. 

6.  Opinions  are  very  greatly  divided  as  to  the  part 
m  which  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  may  have  been  ar- 
rested, and  as  to  the  course  they  may  have  taken  in 
consequence.  It  would  be  therefore  mauilestly  unfair, 
and  most  dangerous,  to  reason  out  and  magnify  any  one 
hypothesis  at  the  expense  of  the  others.  Tiie  plan  here 
alluded  to  sought  to  provide  for  the  probability  of  the 
Expedition  having  been  pto]>i)ed  shortly  after  passing  to 
the  southwest  of  Cape  Walker.  Tiie  very  open  season 
of  1815  was  followed  by  years  of  unusual  severity  until 
1841).  It  is  therefore  very  possible  that  retreat  as  well 
as  onward  progress  has  been  impossible  —  that  safety 
alone  has  become  their  Irst  object.  The  hope  of  rescu- 
ing them  in  their  last  extremity  depends,  then,  (as  far 
as  human  means  can  insure  it,)  on  the  multiplying  of 
simultaneous  efforts  in  every  direction.  Ca])tain  Aus- 
tin's vessels  will,  if  moving  in  pairs,  take  two  most  iiii- 
])ortant  sections  only,  of  the  general  search,  and  will 
iind  they  have  enough  to  do  to  reach  their  several  points 
of  operation  this  season. 

The  necessity  for  this  search  was  greatly  enhanced 
t)j  the  intelligence  received  about  this  time  in  England 
^f  tlie  arrival  of  Mr.  Eae  and  Commander  Pullen  at 
the  Mackenzie  River,  thus  establishing  the  fact,  that 
Sir  Jcihn  Frnnklin's  party  had  not  readied  any  part  of 


.\ 


Mh- 


m 


352 


PEOGKESa  OF  AECrnC  DISCOVERY. 


the  coast  between  Bchring's  Strait  and  the  Coppermine 
Kiver,  while  the  check  Which  Mr.  llae  received  in 
Lis  course  to  the  north  of  the  Coppermine,  tended  to 
give  increased  importance  to  the  (j^uarter  eastward  of 
that  jwsition. 

(Commander  Charles  Codrington  Forsyth,  R.  JN'.,  an 
enterprising  young  otHcer,  who  had  not  long  previously 
been  promoted  in  conse(pience  of  his  arduous  services 
in  surveying  on  the  Australian,  African,  and  American 
chores,  and  who  had  rendered  good  service  to  tlie  gov- 
ernment by  landing  supplies  on  tlie  east  coast  of  Africa, 
imder  circumstances  of  great  difficulty  during  the  Kafir 
war,  had  volunteered  unsuccessfallv  for  all  the  govorn- 
ment  expeditions,  but  was  permitted  by  tlie  Admiralty 
to  command  this  private  brancii  expedition,  in  wliich 
he  embarked  without  fee  or  reward  —  on  the  noble  and 
honorable  mission  of  endeavoring  to  reUeve  his  long- 
imprisoned  brother  officers. 

Tlie  Prince  Albert,  a  small  clipper  vessel  of  about 
ninety  tons,  originally  built  by  Messrs.  White,  of  Cowes, 
in  October,  1848,  for  the  fruit  trade,  was  accordin:!;'ly 
hastily  fitted  out  and  dispatched  from  Aberdeen,  and 
Captain  Forsyth  was  instructed  to  winter,  if  possible, 
in  Brentford  Bay,  in  Regent  Inlet,  and  thence  send 
parties  to  explore  the  opposite  side  of  the  isthmus  and 
the  various  shores  and  bays  of  the  Inlet  She  had  a 
crew  of  twentv,  W.  Kav  and  W.  Wilson  actino;  as  first 
and  second  mates,  and  Mr.  W.  P.  Snow  as  clerk.  She 
sailed  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  was  consequently  the 
last  vessel  that  left,  and  yet  is  the  first  that  has  reached 
home,  having  also  brought  some  account  of  the  track 
of  Franklin's  ex])edition. 

The  Prince  Albert  arrived  off  Cape  Farewell,  July 
2d,  entered  the  ice  on  the  lOth,  and  on  the  21st,  came 
up  with  Sir  John  Ross  in  a  labyrinth  of  ice.  She  ])ro- 
ceeded  up  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait,  fell  in 
with  most  of  the  English  ships  in  th<:>se  seas,  and  also 
with  the  American  l)rig  Advance,  sailing  some  time  in 
company,  and  attem]ited  to  enter  Regent  Inlet  and  AVel- 

Slie  left  the  Advance  aground   near 


lington  Channel 


V0YAG15  OP  THE  PRINCE  ALBERT. 


353 


,  July 

ClllUG 

c  pro- 


Cape  Riley,  at  the  entrance  of  Wellington  Channel, 
though  not  in  a  situation  supposed  to  ue  dangerous. 
Commander  Forsyth,  in  his  omcial  letter  to  the  Lords 
of  the  Admiralty,  says  that  "  traces  of  the  missing  ex- 
pedition under  Sir  John  Franklin  had  been  found  at 
Cape  Riley  and  Beechey  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Wellington  Cliannel.  We  observed  five  places  where 
tents  had  been  pitched,  or  stones  placed  as  if  they  had 
been  used  for  keeping  the  lower  part  of  the  tents  down, 
also  great  quantities  of  beef,  pork,  and  birds'  bones,  a 
piece  of  rope,  with  the  Woolwich  naval  mark  on  it, 
(yellow,)  part  of  which  I  have  inclosed."  Having  en- 
tered Wellington  Channel,  and  examined  the  coast  as 
far  as  Point  Innis,  and  finding  no  further  t .aces  of  the 
missing  vessels,  and  it  being  impracticable  to  penetrate 
further  to  the  west.  Commander  Forsyth  returned  to  Re 
gent  Inlet,  but  meeting  no  opening  there,  the  season 
being  near  at  hand  when  the  ice  begins  to  form,  and 
his  vessel  not  of  a  strength  which  would  enable  it  to 
resist  a  heavy  pressure  of  ice,  he  determined  on  return- 
ing without  further  delay  to  England,  after  examining 
a  number  of  points  along  the  coast. 

On  the  25th  of  August,  a  signal  staff  being  observed 
on  shore  at  Cape  Riley,  Mr.  feiv/^v  was  sent  by  Captain 
Forsyth  to  examine  it.  He  fo  ind  that  the  Assistance, 
Captain  Ommaney,  had  been  f  here  two  days  before,  and 
had  left  the  following  notice  . — 

"  This  is  to  certify  that  "''aptain  Omiuaney,  with  the 
officers  of  her  Majesty's  ships  Assistan(,'e  and  Intrepid, 
landed  upon  Cape  Riley  on  the  23d  August,  1850,  wliere 
he  found  traces  of  encampments,  and  collected  the  re- 
mains of  materials,  wliicfi  evidently  proved  that  some 
party  belonging  to  her  Majesty's  ships  had  been  de- 
tained on  that  spot.  Beechey  Island  was  also  examined, 
where  traces  were  found  of  the  same  ]uirty.  This  is 
also  to  give  notice  that  a  supply  of  provisions  and  fuel 
is  at  Cape  Riley.  Since  15t]i  August,  ^hey  have  ex- 
amined the  north  shore  of  Lancaster  Sound  and  Bar- 
row's Strait,  without  meeting  witli  any  otlici*  traces. 
Captain  Ommaney  proceeds  to  Cape  Ilotliam  and  Capo 


m 


-1*3. 


354 


rUOGRKSS    OF    AUCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


VV"alker  in  search  of  further  traces  of  Sir  John  Frank- 
lin's expedition.  Dated  on  board  her  Majesty's  ship 
Assistance,  off  Cape  liih^y,  the  2'.>d  August,  1850." 

Tlie  seamen  who  were  dispatched  from  tlie  Assistance 
to  examine  these  remains,  Ibund  a  rope  with  the  naval 
mark,  evidently  behnii^ing  to  a  vessel  wliich  had  l)een 
fitted  out  at  Woohvieli,  and  wliich,  in  all  probability, 
was  either  the  Erebus  or  the  Terror,  Other  indications 
were  also  noticed,  which  showed  that  some  vessel  had 
visited  the  place  l)esides  the  Assistance.  Captain  For- 
syth left  a  notice  that  the  Prince  Albert  had  called  off 
Cape  Ililey  on  the  25th  of  August,  and  then  bore  up 
to  the  eastward.  Captain  Forsyth  landed  at  Posses- 
Bion  Bay  on  the  20th  August,  but  nothing  was  found 
there  to  repay  tlie  search  instituted. 

The  Prince  Albert  arrived  at  Aberdeen,  on  the  22d 
of  October,  after  a  quick  passiige,  having  been  absent 
something  less  than  four  months. 

Captain  Forsyth  proceeded  to  London  by  the  mail 
train,  taking  with  him,  for  tiie  infonnation  of  the  Ad- 
miralty, the  several  bones,  (beef,  pork,  &c.,)  which  were 
found  on  Cape  Kiley,  together  with  u  ])iece  of  rope  of 
about  a  foot  and  a  half  in  length,  and  a  small  ])iece  of 
canvas  with  the  Queen's  nuuk  u])on  it,  both  in  an  ex- 
cellent state  of  ])reservation  ;  placing  it  almost  beyond 
a  doubt  that  they  were  left  on  that  spot  by  the  expedi- 
tion under  Sir  John  Frnnklin. 

Captain  Forsyth,  during  his  short  trip,  ex])lored  re- 
gions which  Sir  efames  lloss  was  unable  to  rench  the 
previous  year,  lie  was  at  AVellington  Channel,  and 
penetrated  to  Fury  Beach,  where  Sir  E.  Parry  aban- 
doned his  vessel,  (the  Fury,)  in  1825,  after  she  had 
taken  the  ground.  It  is  situated  in  al»out  72°  40'  N. 
latitude,  and  91°  50'  W.  longitude.  This  is  a  point 
vhich  has  not  been  reached  by  any  vessel  for  twenty 
years  past.  It  was  found,  however,  utterly  impossible 
to  land  there  on  account  of  tlie  packed  ice.  The  whole 
of  the  coasts  of  Baffin's  Bay  have  also  now  been  visited 
without  result. 

The  intelligence  which  Capt.  Forsyth  brouglit  home 


VOYAGE   OF  THE   PRINCE    ALBERT. 


355 


Frank- 
's ship 
50." 

jiistance 
e  naval 
L(l  l)een 
)ability, 
ications 
sel  had 
ain  For- 
illed  off 
3ore  up 
Posses- 
LS  found 

the  22d 
I  absent 

he  mail 

the  Ad- 

icli  were 

rope  t)t' 

)iece  of 

n  an  ex- 

beyond 

expedi- 

ored  re- 
ncli  the 
nel,  and 
y  aban- 
die  liad 
°  40'  N. 
a  point 
twentv 
possible 
e  whole 
visited 

it  home 


has,  as  a  matter  of  course,  excited  the  most  intense  in- 
terest in  naval  circles,  and  among  the  friends  and  rela- 
tives of  the  parties  absent  in  the  Erebus  and  Terror, 
the  more  so  inasmuch  as  it  has  been  ascertained  at 
Cliatham  Dockyard  that  the  rope  which  Captain  For- 
syth found  on  the  spot  when  he  visited  it,  and  copied 
Capt.  Onnnaney's  notice,  is  proved  by  its  yellow  mark 
to  have  been  manufactured  tiiere,  and  certainly  since 
1824  ;  and  moreover,  from  inquiries  instituted,  very 
strong  evidence  has  been  elicited  in  tavor  of  the  l)elief 
that  the  rope  was  made  between  the  years  1841  and 
1849.  That  the  trail  of  the  Franklin  expedition,  or 
some  detachment  of  it,  has  been  struck,  there  cannot 
be  the  slightest  doubt  in  the  mind  of  any  one  who  has 
read  the  dispatches  and  reports.  That  Captain  Om- 
maney  felt  satisfied  on  this  score  is  evident  from  the 
terms  of  the  paper  he  left  beliind  him.  The  squadron, 
it  appears,  were  in  full  cry  upon  tlu  scent  on  the  2r)th 
of  August,  and  we  must  wait  patiently,  but  anxiojisly, 
for  the  next  accounts  of  the  results  of  their  indefatiga- 
ble researches,  which  can  hardly  reach  us  from  Bar- 
row's Strait  before  the  autumn  of  1851. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  now  in  the  mind  of  any  one, 
that  the  Arctic  Searching  Expeditions  have  at  length 
come  upon  trace.%  if  not  the  track  of  Sir  John  >  ranlc- 
liiik  Tiie  accounts  brought  by  Captain  Forsyth  must 
have  at  least  satisfied  the  most  desponding  that  there 
is  still  hope  left  —  that  the  ships  liave  not  foundered  in 
Baffin's  Bay,  at  the  outset  of  the  voyage,  nor  Ix^en 
crushed  in  the  ice,  and  burned  by  a  savage  tri])e  of 
Esquimaux,  who  had  murdered  the  crew.  That  the 
former  mir/ht  have  liappened,  all  must  admit ;  but  to 
tlie  latter,  few,  we  imagine,  will  give  their  assent,  not- 
\vithstan<ling  the  numerous  cruel  rumors  promulgated 
from  time  to  time.  It  would  be  idle  to  dwell  upon  so 
impossible  an  event.  Where  could  this  savage  tribe 
spring  from  'i  Mr.  Saunders  describes  the  natives  of 
WolstenhoUne  Sound  as  the  most  miserable  and  help- 
less of  mortals.  They  had  no  articles  obtained  from 
Europeans  ;  and  he  was  of  opinion  that  ther.  were  no 


Mi 


1!   '  1  i 


^■f' 


Ml 

m 

Mi 


356 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERT. 


settlements  further  north  ;  and  if  there  were,  doubtless 
they  would  be  even  more  impotent  than  these  wretched 
beings.  That  the  ship  might  have  foundered  all  jnust 
admit.  The  President  did  so  with  many  a  gallant  soul 
on  board.  The  Avenger  ran  on  the  Sorelli,  and  300 
brave  fellows,  in  an  instant,  met  with  a  watery  grave  ; 
and  till  the  sea  shall  give  up  her  dead,  who  can  count 
the  thousands  tliat  lie  benoatli  the  billows  of  tlie  mightv 
ocean  ?  "VVe  have  now  certain  evidence  that  Franldin  s 
ships  did  not  founder  —  not,  at  least,  in  Baffin's  Bay  ; 
and  our  own  belief,  (says  a  well-informed  and  compe- 
tent writer  in  the  Morning  Herald,)  is  that  the  pennant 
still  floats  in  the  northern  breeze,  amid  eternal  regions 
of  snow  and  ice. 

The  voyage  performed  by  the  Prince  Albert  has  thus 
been  the  mean-,  of  keeping  alive  our  hopes,  and  of  in- 
forming us,  up  to  a  certain  point,  of  the  progress  of 
the  expeditions,  and  the  situation  of  the  different  ships, 
of  which  we  might  have  been  left  in  a  state  of  utter 
ignorance  till  the  close  of  this  year.  Every  thing  con- 
nected with  the  navigation  of  the  arctic  seas  is  a 
chance,  coupled,  of  course,  with  skill ;  and  in  looking 
at  this  voyage  performed  by  Lady  Franklin's  little 
vessel,  it  must  be  obvious  to  every  one  that  Captain 
Forsyth  has  had  the  chance  of  an  open  season,  and  the 
skill  to  make  use  of  it. 

"  Live  a  thousand  years,"  and  we  may  never  see  such 
another  voyage  performed.  We  have  only  to  look  at 
all  that  havo  preceded.  Parry,  it  is  true,  in  one  year 
ran  to  Melville  Island,  and  passing  a  winter,  got  back 
to  Eri^'land  i,he  following  season  —  and  this  is  at  present 
the  lu  plus  ultra  of  arctic  navigation.  Sir  John  Ross, 
we  Iviiow,  went  out  in  the  Victory  to  Regent  Inlet,  and 
was  frozen  in  for  four  years,  and  all  the  world  gave 
him  up  for  lost  —  but  "there's  life  in  the  old  dog  yet," 
as  the  song  has  it. 

Sir  James  Ross  was  frozen  in  at  Leopold  Harbor, 
and  only  got  out,  aftc  ^^assing  a  winter,  to  be  carried 
away  in  a  floe  of  ice  into  Jiaffin's  Bay,  v/hich  no  human 
ekili  could  prevent. 


VOYAOK   OF   THE   rUlNCE   ALBERT. 


357 


ubtless 
retched 
\l  jnust 
,nt  soul 
nd  300 
grave  ; 
II  count 
mighty 
inldins 
s  Bay  ; 
corape- 
)ennani 
regions 

las  thus 
d  of  in- 
ress  of 
it  ships, 
^f  utter 
ng  con- 
[is  is  a 
looking 
}  little 
aptain 
and  the 

ee  such 
look  at 
le  year 
ot  back 
present 
n  Ross, 
et,  and 
gave 

g  yet," 

larbor, 
carried 
human 


Sir  George  Back  was  to  make  a  summer's  cruise  to 
Wager  Inlet,  and  return  to  England.  The  result  every 
one  knows  or  may  make  themselves  acquainted  with, 
by  reading  the  fearful  voyage  of  the  Terror,  an  ab- 
stract of  which  I  have  already  given.  It  would  be 
sui)erfluous  to  enumerate  many  other  of  our  series  of 
polar  voyages,  but  it  is  pretty  evident  that  Captain 
Forsyth's  voyage,  performed  in  the  summer  montlis 
of  1850,  will  be  handed  down  to  posterity  as  one  of  the 
most  remarkable,  if  not  the  most  remarkable,  that  has 
ever  been  accomplished  in  the  arctic  seas  —  the  expe- 
dition consisting  of  one  solitary  small  vessel. 

The  main  object  of  the  voyage,  it  is  true,  has  not 
been  accomplished,  but  as  all  the  harbors  iii  Regent 
Inlet  were  frozen  up,  and  it  was  utterly  impossible  to 
cut  through  a  vast  tract  of  ice,  extending  for  perhaps 
four  or  five  miles,  to  get  the  ship  to  a  secure  anchor- 
age, under  these  circumstances,  Captain  Forsyth  had 
no  alternative  but  to  return,  and  in  doing  so,  he  has, 
in  the  opinion  of  all  the  best-informed  officers,  dis- 
played great  good  sense  and  judgment  rather  than  re- 
main frozen  in  at  the  Wellington  Channel,  where  he 
only  went  to  reconnoiter,  and  where  he  had  no  business 
whatever,  his  instructions  being  confined  to  Regent 
Inlet. 

Lady  Franklin  purposes,  if  she  can  raise  sufiicient 
funds,  to  send  out  another  boat  expedition  this  spring  to 
Regent  Inlet,  to  prosecute  the  search  in  the  regions  to 
which  we  have  before  alluded,  and  on  which  she  places 
so  much  reliance.  The  party,  under  the  charge  of  Mr. 
Kennedy,  will  probably  winter  in  Brentford  Bay  or 
some  other  convenient  place,  and  carry  on  the  search- 
ing operations  on  the  opposite  shores  of  Boothia,  as 
the  season  permits.  But  her  ladyship's  income  has 
been  so  largely  drawn  upon  by  the  various  enormous 
expenses  she  has  been  put  to,  that  it  is  doubtful 
whether  she  will  be  able  to  carry  out  her  views  without 
assistance  from  the  public. 

I  sincerely  trust  that  the  generosity  and  chivalry  of 
the  people  of  England,  which  has  displayed  its  sympa 


i 


m 


I 


■m 


358 


PROaitESS   OF  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


til 


1: 


tliies  with  tho  dlstressctl  soldier  ami  the  weather-bound 
scaiueii  on  so  many  occasions,  and  in  so  many  Hj>lendid 
and  richly-endowed  institutions,  will  not  allow  this 
noble-minded  lady  to  exhaust  her  private  resources 
in  the  equipment  ofexpeditions  which  are  deemed  so 
important  and  necessary,  but  that  they  will  come  for- 
ward and  relieve  her,  recollectinuj  that  the  expedition 
is  re(piired  in  searcli  of  two  of  iier  Majesty's  ships, 
sent  out  on  their  arduous  service  by  the  government 
of  tho  country,  and  under  command  of  her  honored, 
amiable,  and  distinguished  husband,  the  good  and 
brave  Sir  John  Franklin. 

I  have  thus  gone  through,  as  fully  as  my  space  M'ould 
permit,  the  voyages  and  journeys  of  our  navigators  and 
travelers  within  the  Arctic  circle,  and  the  record  of 
their  arduous  services  cannot  fail  to  prove  interesting. 

There  is  one  land  expedition,  that  of  Dr.  Sir  John 
Richardson,  on  tho  Polar  shore  between  the  Copper- 
mine and  Mackenzie  llivers,  in  1848,  which  I  have  not 
touched  on  because  it  has  already  been  published  in 
detail  in  several  tpiarters,  and  the  gallant  Doctor  is  pre- 
paring a  very  full  account  of  it  for  immediate  publica- 
tion. Captain  Kellett,  also,  has  it  in  contemplation  to 
publish  an  account  of  the  voyage  of  the  Herald. 

The  following  recapitulation  will  give  the  ])08ition 
of  the  different  vessels  engaged  in  the  search,  when  last 
heard  of. 

The  Investigator  having  passed  Behring's  Strait, 
reached  Kotzebue  Sound  on  the  27th  of  July,  and 
when  last  heard  of,  was  pushing  her  way  along  between 
the  ice  toward  Melville  Island.  The  Enterprise  had 
put  back  to  Ilong  Kong  to  winter  having  been  unable 
to  enter  the  ice. 

The  Advance,  was  aground  off  Cape  Riley,  August 
2oth. 

The  Assistance,  in  "Wellington  Channel,  August 
25th,  standing  toward  Capo  Hothara. 

The  Felix,  off  Cape  Crawford,  in  Lancaster  Sound, 
August  22d. 

The  Intrepid  and  Lady  Franklin,  on  August  24th 


:   i 


LATKST    I'OSITION  OF    ALF.   TIIIO    VKHHIJ.S. 


1\K 


50 


mid  2r>tli,  in  Wellington  Clmnnel,  standing  tovviird 
Cuj)o  Jlothuni. 

Tho  Kesoluto  and  Pioneer,  in  IVsKossion  ]>ay,  Aug. 
ITtii. 

The  liescnc  and  Sophia,  in  Wellington  Channel,  Au- 
gust iJ5tli,  aj)i)arently  beriet  with  ice. 

The  Plover,  wintering  in  Grantley  Harbor,  Port 
Clarence,  1S50. 

The  Ts'orth  Star  and  Prince  Albert  have,  as  we  havo 
Keen,  arrived  in  England,  and  the  Herald  is  also  on 
her  passage  home.  1  have  been  favored  with  the  sight 
of  a  private  letter  of  very  recent  date  from  an  olhcer 
of  the  JJerald,  dated  J  long  Kong,  2',k\  of  December, 
1850,  from  which  I  make  the  tullowing  extracts  : 

"  On  our  third  and  last  (;ruiso  north  in  search  of  the 
ill-fated  expedition  under  Sir  John  Franklin,  we  sailed 
from  Oaliu  on  the  24th  of  ]\[ay,  1850,  arriving  in  Kot- 
zebue  Sound  on  the  14th  of  July.  The  Sound  was  a 
peifect  wall  of  ice,  with  no  prospect  of  our  being  able 
to  communicate  with  the  Plover  for  a  week  or  ten  days. 
One  of  our  cutters  was  sent  in  with  letters,  getting  be- 
tween the  flo(!s,  and  hauling  over  some,  at  last  reached 
her,  and  found  them  all  well,  but  no  news  during  the 
winter  of  Sir  John  Pranklin.  On  the  21st  of  July, 
after  watering  and  refitting,  we  sailed  for  tJape  Lis- 
Lurne  to  intercept  the  Enterprise  and  Investigator, 
this  being  the  ap])ointed  rendezvous.  The  Plover  also 
sailed  for  Point  Barrow  to  look  after  Pullen's  party. 
On  the  26th,  in  a  dense  fog,  we  made  the  ice-pack, 
much  to  our  surprise,  180  miles  south  of  where  wo 
found  it  last  season,  in  latitude  70°  13'  N.  The  ice  was 
fourteen  feet  high,  a  solid  wall  without  an  opening 
through  which  we  might  with  safety  sail.  Toward 
midnight  it  blew  a  gale  of  wind,  and  we  were  compel- 
led to  liaul  off.  On  the  29th,  we  again  made  the  pack 
much  higher  than  before,  rising  like  a  hill  from  the  sea 
face,  in  latitude  71°  12'  N.  On  the  night  of  the  80th, 
we  saw  detached  icebergs  off  Wainwright  Inlet,  from 
thirty  to  forty  feet  high.  The  wind  again  increasing  to 
a  jrale,  witli  thick  rainy  \veather,  reduced  us  to  close 
reefs,  and  compelled  us  to  bear  up  for  Cape  Lisburne. 


I'll 
lilt 

IS 


mi 


M 


300 


PKOOKE88  OF  ABOTIO  DISCi  "ERY. 


it 


% 


3 


% 


"  Arriving  oft'  that  place  on  tho  last  day  of  July,  wo 
wore  fortunate  enough  to  fall  in  \^i:A>  the  Investigator  in 
a  dense  fog.  Clearing  for  an  iiistant,  we  were  along- 
side each  other  1  and  wo  had  the  news  of  the  last 
twelve  months.  She  had  come  from  Oahu  in  the  rihort 
spaf'o  of  tim(^,  twenty-six  days.  The  Enterprise  sailed 
iive  days  before  her.  They  had  't  seen  each  other 
since  rounding  the  Horn.  The  Investigator  remained 
but  a  few  minutes  in  our  com  pan  3',  and  then  departed 
with  three  hearty  cheers  from  us  for  the  ice  pack,  deter- 
mined to  get  to  Melville  Island.  She  had  our  good 
wishes,  but  at  the  same  time  our  doubts  as  to  her  suc- 
cess ;  we  had  the  experience  of  three  voyages.  She 
was  as  yet  green,  and  all  her  troubles  to  go  through. 

"From  tliis  day.  31st  of  July,  to  2()th  of  August,  wo 
were  blockading  Cape  Lisburnt,  to  intercept  the  En- 
ivTprise  and  Plover,  a  most  tedious  and  troublesome 
twenty-six  days  as  ever  we  experienced  ;  we  did  not 
pee  the  former,  but  the  Plover  we  spoke.  She  had  been 
to  Point  Barrow,  had  heard  from  the  natives  that  a 
party  of  white  men  had  been  murdered  and  buried  near 
the  Col\  ille  River,  near  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  that 
whales' jaws  and  bones  now  marked  the  spot.  If  it 
had  not  been  so  late  in  the  season  we  should  have  sent 
a  boat  expedition  there,  but  we  hardly  knew  what  con- 
clusion to  come  to.  It  may  be  Pullen's  party, —  it  may 
be  only '  native  report '  to  get  tobacco  and  beads.  My 
o])inion  was,  and  is,  that  the  story  was  a  most  improb- 
able one,  as  the  natives  refused  to  accept  a  cask  of  to- 
bacco and  two  muskets  to  go  there  as  pilots.  But  should 
any  thing  have  unfortunately  happened  to  Pullen's 
party,  and  no  movement  made  by  us  to  rescue  them  if 
still  alive,  it  would  be  a  damper  on  the  Herald,  and  the 
aifair  never  forgiven  or  forgotten  by  the  public. 

"  Finding  it  useless  to  wait  any  longer  for  the  Enter- 
prise, we  sailed  for  Po"t  Clarence,  and  put  the  Plover 
into  winter  quarters  as  a  depot  for  the  two  ships  north." 


Till!   REAKCIIING    EXPEDITIONS. 


361 


TO  THE  EXPEDITIONS  IN  SEARCH  OF  SIR 
JOHN  FRANKLIN. 

[From  Fisher'H  Drawing-Uooiu  Scrap-Book.] 

Across  the  Arctic  foam, 

To  bring  tho  wnnclercr  home, 
Speed  on,  yo  fleets,  wlutm  Mercy's  liaiid  equips  f 

And  nmy  tin  favoring  it^nles 

M.ike  niiisii  in  your  sjiils, 
And  waft  you  sifuly         vn  ppillant  sliijiv  I 

May  suiisli        ^j^lit  your  path. 

And  tem[>'         lill  thuir  wrath, 
And  fortune  guide  ym,     n  your  darkest  tnick  ; 

Speed  on  with  hiirh  endeavor, 

And  hopeful  couin^^c  ever, 
And  bring  to  British  herrts  their  long  lost  hero  back. 

Farewell  —  a  short  farewell  I  — 

The  liopes  of  nations  swell. 
And  prayei-s  of  myriads  rise  to  Heaven  for  you, 

That  perils  of  the  cold. 

And  hai'dships  manifold, 
May  bear  their  gentlest  on  each  hardy  crew  1 

A  thankful  world  looks  on. 

And  gives  its  benison  ; 
America  and  Europe  join  their  hands  ; 

And  o'er  the  Northern  Sea, 

Gaze  forward  hopefully. 
And  sound  our  Franklin's  name  through  all  the  anxious  lands. 

Return  I  oli,  soon  return  I 

And  let  our  beal-fires  burn 
On  every  mountain-top  and  dizzy  scaur ; 

And  let  the  people's  voice. 

And  clapping  hands  rejoice 
For  his  and  your  returning  from  afar. 

No  conqueror  antique,  * 

Of  Roman  fame  or  Greek, 
Such  proud  ovation  gathered,  laurel-crowned, 

As  we  on  him  would  pour, 

From  every  sea  or  shore, 
And  hive  of  busy  men,  on  all  our  English  ground. 

But  if  this  may  not  be, 

And  o'er  the  frozen  sea 
They  oleep  in  death,  the  victims  ot  their  zeal ; 

Be  yours  the  task  to  show 

The  greatness  of  our  woe, 
And  end  the  doubting  hopes  that  millions  feel. 

Then  shall  tho  tears  be  shed 

For  them,  the  glorious  dead ;     . 
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PROGRESS   OF   AROllC   DISCOVERT. 


And  then  shall  History,  on  a  spotless  page. 

Inscribe  each  honest  name 

With  tributary  fame  — 
The  mfin  of  noble  soul —  true  heroes  of  our  agOi 

Speed  on  across  the  wave  1  — 

For  you  the  good  and  brave. 
The  good  and  brave  of  every  land  implore 

All  blessings  and  success, 

Sunshine  and  happiness, 
And  safety  on  the  far  and  frozen  shore. 

From  storm  and  hidden  rock, 

And  from  the  ice-berg's  shock. 
May  Heaven  protect  you,  wheresoe'er  ye  stray  I 

On  Mercy's  errand  sped 

On  you  be  mercy  shed, 
Qod  guide  you,  mariners,  and  shield  you  on  your  way 


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I  K 


THE  AMERICAN  ARCTIO  EXPEDITION. 


The  safe  return  of  the  expedition  sent  out  by  Mr 
Henry  Grinnell,  an  opulent  merchant  of  New  York  city 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions,  is 
an  event  of  much  interest ;  and  the  voyage,  though  not 
resulting  in  the  discovery  of  the  long-absent  mariners, 
presents  many  considerations  satisfactory  to  the  parties 
immediately  concerned,  and  the  American  public  in 
general. 

Mr.  GrinnelPs  expedition  consisted  of  only  two  small 
brigs,  the  Advance  of  140  tons ;  the  Rescue  of  only  90 
tons.  The  former  had  been  engaged  in  the  Havana 
trade  ;  the  latter  was  a  new  vessel  built  for  the  mer- 
chant service.  Both  were  strengthened  for  the  arctic 
voyage  at  a  heavy  cost.  They  were  then  placed  under 
the  directions  of  our  Navy  Board,  and  subject  to  naval 
regulations,  as  if  in  permanent  service.  The  command 
was  given  to  Lieut.  E.  De  Haven,  a  young  naval  officer 
who  accompanied  the  United  States  exploring  expedi- 
tion. The  result  has  proved  that  a  better  choice  could 
not  have  been  made.  His  officers  consisted  of  Mr. 
Murdoch,  sailinff-master ;  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane,  surgeon  and 
naturalist ;  and  Mr.  Lovell,  midshipman.  The  Advance 
had  a  crew  of  twelve  men  when  she  sailed  ;  two  of  them 
complaining  of  sickness,  and  expressing  a  desire  to 
return  home,  were  left  at  the  Danisli  settlement  at  Disco 
Island,  on  the  coast  of  Greenland. 

The  Expedition  left  New  York  on  the  23d  of  May, 
1850,  and  was  absent  a  little  more  than  sixteen  months. 
They  passed  the  eastern  extremity  of  Newfoundland 


36(J 


PKOGRESS   OF  AROTIO   DI8COVEKY. 


\^ 


ten  clays  after  leaving  Sandy  ITook,  and  tlien  sailed 
east-nortbeast,  directly  for  Cape  Comfort,  on  the  coast 
of  Greenland.  Tiie  weatlier  was  generally  fine,  and 
only  a  single  accident  occurred  on  the  voyage  to  that 
country  of  frost  and  snow.  Off  the  coast  of  Labrador 
they  met  an  iceberg  making  its  way  toward  the  tropics. 
The  night  was  very  dark,  and  as  the  huge  voyager  had 
no  "  light  out,"  the  Advance  could  not  be  censured  for 
running  foul.  She  was  punished,  however,  by  the  loss 
of  her  jib-boom,  as  she  ran  against  the  iceberg  at  the 
rate  of  seven  or  eight  knots  an  hour. 

The  voyagers  did  not  land  at  Cape  Comfort,  but 
turning  nortliward,  sailed  along  the  southwest  coast  of 
Greenland,  sometimes  in  the  midst  of  broad  acres  of 
broken  ice,  (particularly  in  Davis'  Straits,)  as  far  as 
Whale  Island.  On  the  way  the  anniversary  of  our 
national  independence  occurred  ;  it  was  observed  by 
the  seamen  by  "splicing  the  main-brace" — in  other 
words,  they  were  allowed  an  extra  glass  of  grog  on  that 
day. 

From  "Whale  Island,  a  boat,  with  two  officers  and 
four  seamen,  was  sent  to  Disco  Island,  a  distance  of 
about  26  miles,  to  a  Danish  settlement  there,  to  procure 
skin  clothing  and  other  articles  necessary  for  use  during 
the  rigors  of  a  polar  winter.  The  officers  were  enter- 
tained at  the  government  house  ;  the  seamen  were  com- 
fortably lodged  with  the  Esquimaux,  sleeping  in  fur 
bags  at  night.  They  returned  to  the  ship  the  following 
day,  and  the  expedition  proceeded  on  its  voyage.  When 
passing  the  little  Danish  settlement  of  TJpernavick,  they 
were  boarded  by  natives  for  the  first  time.  They  were 
out  in  government  whale-boats,  hunting  for  ducks  and 
seals.  These  hardy  children  of  the  Arctic  Circle  were 
not  shy,  for  through  the  Danes,  the  English  whalers,and 
government  expeditions,  they  had  become  acquainted 
with  men  of  other  latitudes. 

When  the  expedition  reached  Melville  Bay,  which, 
on  account  of  its  fearful  character,  is  also  called  the 
DemVs  Nip^  the  voyagers  began  to  witness  more  of 


the  grandeur  and  perils  of  arctic  scenes. 


Icebergs  of 


THE   ASIERICAN   ARCTIC  EXPEDITION. 


367 


all  dimensions  came  bearing  down  from  the  Polar  seas, 
like  vast  squadrons,  and  the  roar  of  their  rending  came 
over  the  waters  like  the  booming  of  heavy  broadsides 
of  contending  navies.  They  also  encountered  immense 
floes,  with  omy  narrow  channels  between,  and  at  times 
their  situation  was  exceedingly  perilous.  On  one  occa- 
sion, after  heaving  through  fields  of  ice  for  five  consecu- 
tive weeks,  two  immense  floes,  between  which  thev 
were  making  their  way,  gradually  approached  each 
other,  and  for  several  hours  they  expected  their  tiny 
vessels  —  tiny  when  compared  with  the  mighty  objects 
around  them  —  would  be  crushed.  An  immense  calf 
of  ice,  six  or  eight  feet  thick,  slid  under  the  Rescue, 
lifting  her  almost  "  high  and  dry,"  and  careening  her 
partially  upon  her  beam  ends.  By  means  of  ice-an- 
chors, (large  iron  hooks,)  they  kept  her  from  capsizing. 
In  this  position  they  remained  about  sixty  hours,  when, 
with  saws  and  axes,  they  succeeded  in  relieving  her. 
The  ice  now  opened  a  little,  and  they  finally  warped 
through  into  clear  water.  While  they  were  thus  con- 
fined, polar  bears  came  around  them  in  abundance, 
greedy  for  prey,  and  the  seamen  indulged  a  little  in  the 
^perilous  sports  of  the  chase. 

The  open  sea  continued  but  a  short  time,  when  they 
again  became  entangled  among  bergs,  floes,  and  hum- 
mocks, and  encountered  the  most  fearful  perils.  Some- 
times they  anchored  their  vessels  to  icebergs,  and  some- 
times to  noes  or  masses  of  hummock.  On  one  of  these 
occasions,  while  the  cook,  an  active  Frenchman,  was 
upon  a  berg,  making  a  place  for  an  anchor,  the  mass  of 
ice  split  beneath  him,  and  he  was  dropped  through  the 
yawning  fissure  into  the  water,  a  distance  of  almost 
thirty  feet.  Fortunately  the  masses,  as  is  often  the 
case,  did  not  close  up  again,  but  floated  apart,  and  the 
poor  cook  was  hauled  on  board  more  dead  than  alive, 
from  excessive  fright.  It  was  in  this  fearful  region  that 
they  first  encountered  pack-ice,  and  there  they  were 
locked  in  from  the  7th  to  the  23d  of  July.  During  that 
time  they  were  joined  by  the  yacht  Prince  Albert,  com- 
manded by  Captain  Forsyth,  of  the  Eoyal  Navy,  and 


368 


PROGRESS  OF  AROTIO  DISCOVERY. 


together  the  three  vessels  were  anchored,  for  a  while, 
to  an  immense  field  of  ice,  in  sight  of  the  DeviPs 
Thumb.  That  high,  rocky  peak,  situated  in  latitude 
74°  22',  was  about  thirty  miles  distant,  and  with  the 
dark  hills  adjacent,  presented  a  strange  aspect  where 
all  was  white  and  glittering.  The  pa^  and  the  hills 
are  masses  of  rock,  with  occasionally  a  lichen  or  a  moss 
growing  upon  their  otherwise  naked  surfaces.  In  the 
midst  of  the  vast  ice-field  loomed  up  many  loft^  bergs, 
all  of  them  in  motion  —  slow  and  majestic  motion. 

From  the  Devil's  Thumb  the  American  vessels  passed 
onward  through  the  pack  toward  Sabine's  Islands,  while 
the  Prince  Albert  essayed  to  make  a  more  westerly 
course.  They  reached  Cape  York  at  the  beginning  of 
August.  Far  across  the  ice,  laiidward,  they  discovered, 
through  their  glasses,  several  men,  apparently  making 
signals  ;  and  for  a  while  they  rejoiced  in  the  belief  that 
they  saw  a  portion  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  companions. 
Four  men,  (among  whom  was  our  sailor-artist.,)  were 
dispatched  with  a  whale-boat  to  reconnoiter.  They  soon 
discovered  the  men  to  be  Esquimaux,  who,  by  signs, 
professed  great  friendship,  ana  endeavored  to  get  the 
voyagers  to  accompany  them  to  their  homes  beyond 
the  hills.  They  declined  ;  rfnd  as  soon  as  they  returned 
tvLthe  vessel,  the  expedition  again  pushed  forward,  and 

ide  its  way  to  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  which  they 

iched  on  the  7th  of  August. 

At  Cape  Dudley  Digues  they  were  charmed  by  the 
sight  of  the  Crimson  Cliffs,  spoken  of  by  Captain  rarry 
and  other  arctic  navigators.  These  are  lofty  cliffs  of 
dark  brown  stone,  covered  with  snow  of  a  rich  crimson 
color.  It  was  a  magnificent  sight  in  that  cold  region, 
to  see  such  an  apparently  warm  object  standing  out  in 
bold  relief  against  the  dark  blue  back-ground  of  a  polar 
sky.  This  was  the  most  northern  point  to  which  the 
expedition  penetrated.  The  whole  coast  which  they 
had  passed  from  Disco  to  this  cape  is  high,  rugged,  and 
barren,  only  some  of  the  low  points,  stretching  into  the 
sea,  bearing  a  species  of  dwarf  fir.  Northeast  from 
the  cape  rise  the  Arctic  Highlands,  to  an  unknown  alti- 


THE  AMERICAN   ARCTIO  EXPEDITION. 


3«9 


I  go, 


the 


tude  ;  and  stretchinff  away  northward  is  the  unexplored 
Smith's  Sound,  filled  with  impenetrable  ice. 

From  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  the  Advance  and  Res- 
cue, beating  against  wind  and  tide  in  the  midst  of  the 
ice-fields,  made  Wolstenholme  Sound,  and  then  chang- 
ing their  course  to  the  southwest,  emerged  from  the 
fields  into  the  open  waters  of  Lancaster  Sound.  Here, 
on  the  18th  of  August,  they  encountered  a  tremendous 
gale,  which  lasted  about  twenty-four  hours.  The  two 
vessels  parted  company  during  the  storm,  and  remained 
separate  several  aays.  Across  Lancaster  Sound,  the 
Advance  made  her  way  to  Barrow's  Straits,  and  on  the 
22d  discovered  the  Prince  Albert  on  the  southern  shore 
of  the  straits,  near  Leopold  Island,  a  mass  of  lofty, 
precipitous  rocks,  dark  and  barren,  and  hooded  and 
draped  with  snow.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  soon 
the  officers  and  crews  of  the  two  vessels  met  in  friendly 
greeting.  Those  of  the  Prince  Albert  were  much  as- 
tonished, for  they  (being  towed  by  a  steamer,)  left  the 
Americans  in  Melville  Bay  on  the  6th,  pressing  north- 
ward through  the  pack,  and  could  not  conceive  how 
thev  so  soon  aad  safely  penetrated  it.  Captain  For- 
sytn  had  attempted  to  reach  a  particular  point,  where 
he  intended  to  remain  through  the  winter,  but  finding 
the  passage  thereto  completely  blocked  up  with  ice,  he 
had  resolved,  on  the  very  day  when  the  Americans  ap- 
peared, to  "  'bout  ship,"  and  return  hoLNi.  This  fagt, 
and  the  disappointment  felt  by  Mr.  Snow,  au  mentioned 
in  our  former  article. 

The  two  vessels  remained  together  a  day  or  two, 
when  they  parted  company,  the  Prince  Albert  to  re« 
iurn  home,  and  the  Advance  to  make  further  explora- 
tions. It  was  off  Leopold  Island,  on  the  22d  of  Au- 
gust, that  the  "  mad  Yankee  "  took  the  lead  through  the 
vast  masses  of  floating  ice,  so  vividlv  described  'by  Mr. 
Snow,  and  so  graphically  portrayed  by  the  sailor-artisk 
"  The  way  was  before  them,"  says  Mr.  Snow,  who  stood 
upon  the  deck  of  the  Advance  ;  "  the  stream  of  ice  had 
to  be  either  gone  through  boldly,  or  a  long  detour  made; 
and,  despite  the  heaviness  of  the  stream,  they  2>ushed 


yl! 


I  ■ 


870 


rit«)OUK88   OF   ARCTIC    DISCOVKRY. 


the  vessel  through  in  her  proper  rottrse.  Two  or  threo 
shocks,  as  she  caine  in  contact  with  some  largo  jiicccs, 
were  unheeded  ;  and  the  moment  the  hist  block  was 
past  the  bow,  tlie  ofHcer  Bxiur^  out, '  So  :  steady  as  siio 
goes  on  her  course  ;'  and  came  at\  as  if  notliing  more 
tium  ordinary  sailing  had  boon  going  on.  I  observed 
our  own  little  bark  nobly  ft>llowing  in  the  American's 
wake ;  and  as  I  afterward  kiarned,  she  got  through  it 
pretty  well,  tiiough  not  witiiout  mucii  doubt  of  the  pro- 
priety of  keeping  on  in  such  procedure  after  the  '  mad 
Yankee,'  as  he  was  called  by  our  nuite." 

From  Leopold  Island  the  Advance  proceeded  to  the 
northwest,  and  on  tiie  25th  reached  Capo  Riley,  an 
otiier  amorphous  mass,  not  so  regular  and  precipitate 
as  Leopold  Island,  but  more  lofty.  Here  a  strong  tide, 
setting  in  to  tlie  shore,  drifted  the  Advance  toward  the 
beach,  where  she  stranded.  Around  her  were  small 
bergs  and  large  masses  of  floating  ice,  all  under  tlio 
influence  of  the  strong  current.  It  was  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  whon  siie  struck.  By  diligent 
labor  in  removing  every  thing  from  her  deck  to  a  small 
floe,  she  was  so  lightened,  that  at  four  o'clock  the  next 
morning  she  floated,  and  soon  every  thing  was  properly 
replaced. 

Near  Cape  Kiley  the  Americans  fell  in  with  a  por- 
tion of  an  English  Expedition,  and  there  also  the 
Rescue,  left  behind  in  the  gale  in  Lancaster  Sound, 
overtook  the  Advance.  There  was  Captain  Penny 
with  the  Sophia  and  Lady  Franklin;  the  veteran  Sir 
John  Ross,  with  the  Felix,  and  Commodore  Austin, 
with  the  Resolute  steamer.  Together  the  navigators 
of  both  nations  explored  the  coast  at  and  near  Cape 
Riley,  and  on  the  27t)»  they  saw  in  a  cove  on  the  sliore 
of  Beechey  Island,  or  Beeciiey  Cape,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  entrance  to  Wellington  Channel,  unmistakable  evi 
dence  that  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions  were 
there  in  April,  1846.  There  they  found  many  articles 
known  to  belong  to  the  British  Navy,  and  some  that 
were  the  property  of  the  Erebus  and  Terror,  the  ships 
under  the  command  of  Sir  John.     There  lay,  bleachad 


•'«• 


«5 


THE  AilKUICAN    AKCTIO   KXPEDITION. 


371 


to  tlio  wliitenesfl  of  the  surrounding;  snow,  a  piece  of 
caiivtts,  witli  the  nmnc  of  the  Terror,  marked  uptni  it 
with  inde8tructil)le  charcoal.  It  was  very  faint,  yet 
perfectly  lej^ible.  Near  it  was  a 
guide  board,  lying  ihit  n])on  its 
face,  liaving  been  ])roHti"ated  by 
the  wind.  It  had  evidently  been 
used  to  direct  exploring  parties  to 
the  vessels,  or  rather,  to  the  en- 
campment on  shore.  The  board 
was  pine,  thirteen  inches  in  length 
and  six  and  a  half  in  breadth,  and 
nailed  to  a  boarding  pike  eight 
feet  in  length.  It  is  8upj)08ed 
that  the  sudden  opening  of  the 
ice,  caused  Sir  John  to  depart 
hastily,  and  in  so  doing,  this  pike 
and  its  board  were  left  behind. 
They  also  found  a  large  number 
of  tin  canisters, 
such  as  are  used 
for  packing  meats 
for  a  sea  voyage;  an 
anvil  block :  rem- 
nants of  clothing, 
which  evinced,  by 
numerous  patches 
and  their  thread- 
bare character,that 
they  had  been  worn 
as  long  as  the  own- 
ers could  keep  them  ANVIL  BLOCK.  GUIDE  BOAED. 
on ;  the  remains  of  an  India  Kubber  glove,  lined  with 
wool ;  some  old  sacks ;  a  cask,  or  tub,  partly  filled  with 
charcoal,  and  an  unfinished  rope-mat,  which,  like  other 
fibrous  fabrics,  was  bleached  white. 

But  the  most  interesting,  and  at  the  same  time  most 
melancholy  traces  of  the  navigators,  were  three  graves, 
in  a  little  sheltered  cove,  each  with  a  board  at  the  head, 
bearing  the  name  of  the  sleeper  below.    These  inscrij)- 


■m 

m 


■M 


872 


PROCJUKSS    OK   AKCTIO    DWCOVKKY. 


tlons  testify  positively  when  Sir  .Tt)hn  and  his  compan- 
ions were  there.  The  bonrU  at  the  head  of  the  grave 
on  the  left  has  the  following  inscription  : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  John  Touuin(jton,  who 
departed  this  life,  January  Ist,  a  p.,  1846,  on  board 
her  Majesty's  ship  Terror,  aged  20  years." 

On  the  center  one  —  "Sacred  to  the  memory  of 
iTouN  IIartneix,  a.  B.,  of  her  Majesty's  shin  Erebus ; 
died,  January  4th,  1840,  aged  25  years.  '  Thus  saith 
the  Lord  of  Hosts,  Consider  your  ways ;'  Ilaggai,  chap, 
i.  5,  7." 

On  the  right — "Sacred  to  the  memory  of  W.  Bratne, 
R.  M.,  of  her  Majesty's  ship  Erebus,  who  died  April  3d, 
1846,  aged  32  years.  *  Choose  you  this  day  whom  you 
will  serve :'  Joshua,  chap,  xxiv.,  part  of  the  16th  verso." 


■^v 


THBEE  GRAVK8  AT  BEECHEY. 

How  much  later  than  April  3d  (the  date  upon  the 
last-named  head-board,)  Sir  John  remained  atBeechej, 
can  not  be  determined.  They  saw  evidences  of  his 
having  gone  northward,  for  sledge  tracks  in  that  di- 
rection were  visible.  It  is  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Kane 
that,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  in  the  spring,  Sir 
John  passed  northward  with  his  ships  through  Welling- 
ton Channel,  into  the  great  Polar  basin,  and  that  \\q 
did  not  return.  This,  too,  is  the  opinion  of  Captain 
Penny,  and  he  zealously  urges  the  British  government 
to  send  a  powerful  screw  steamer  to  pass  through  tha> 


TI1I5  AMKKICAN   AKCTIO   EXPKDITION. 


373 


channel,  and  explore  the  theoretically  more  liospitablo 
cuaHts  beyond.  This  will  doubtless  l)e  undertaken 
another  season,  it  beinj^  the  opinions  of  Ca2)tains  I'tirry, 
iieechey.  Sir  John  Uoss,  and  otiiers,  ex])ressed  at  a  con- 
ference with  the  board  of  Admiralty,  in  September,  that 
tiie  season  was  too  far  advanced  to  attempt  it  the  pres- 
ent year.  Dr.  Kane,  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  Grinuell,  since 
the  return  of  the  expedition,  thus  expresses  his  opin 
ion  concerning  the  safety  of  Sir  John 


panions.    Atter  saying,  "I  should 


and  his  com- 
think  that  he  is 
now  to  be  sought  for  north  and  west  of  Cornwallis 
Island,"  he  adds,  ^^as  to  the  chance  of  the  destruction 
of  his  party  by  the  casualties  of  ice,  the  return  of  our 
own  party  after  something  more  than  the  usual  share 
of  them,  is  the  only  fact  that  I  can  add  to  what  wo 
knew  when  we  set  out.  The  hazards  from  cold  and 
privation  of  food  may  be  almost  looked  upon  as  sub-  ' 
ordinate.  The  snow-hut,  the  fire  and  light  from  the 
moss-lamp  fed  with  blubber,  the  seal,  the  narwhal,  the 
white  whale,  and  occasionally  abundant  stores  of  mi- 
gratory birds,  would  sustain  vigorous  life.  The  scurvy, 
the  worst  visitation  of  explorers  deprived  of  perma- 
nent quarters,  is  more  rare  in  the  depths  of  a  polar 
winter,  than  in  the  milder  weather  of  the  moist  sum- 
mer ;  and  our  two  little  vessels  encountered  both 
seasons  without  losing  a  man." 

Leaving  Beechey  Cape,  our  expedition  forced  its  way 
through  the  ice  to  Barrow's  Inlet,  where  they  narrowly 
escaped  being  frozen  in  for  the  winter.  They  endeav- 
ored to  enter  the  Inlet,  for  the  purpose  of  making  it 
their  winter  quarters,  but  were  prevented  by  the  mass 
of  pack-ice  at  its  entrance.  It  was  on  the  4th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1850,  when  they  arrived  there,  and  after  re- 
maining seven  or  eight  days,  they  abandoned  the 
attempt  to  enter.     On  the  right  and  left  of  the  above 

ficture,  are  seen  the  dark  rocks  at  the  entrance  of  the 
nlet,  and  in  the  center  of  the  frozen  waters  and  the 
range  of  hills  beyond.  There  was  much  smooth  ice 
within  the  Inlet,  and  while  the  vessels  lay  anchored 
to  the  "  field,"  officers  and  crew  exercised  and  amused 


t 


874 


ruodKEHS  OF  AKci'io  i)is(;(n'i':uY. 


* 
•"»^ 


tliemsolvos  by  8kiitiM<jf.  On  the  left  of  the  Tnlet,  (in 
diciitcil  by  tl»o  dark  conical  object,)  tliey  (liscovored  u 
Cairn,  (u  licaj)  of  stones  witli  a  cavity,)  ei|tijht  or  ten 
foet  in  liei<j;bt,  which  vvii«  erected  by  Captain  Otnmaney 
of  the  English  Kxpedition  then  in  the  |)(»lar  waters. 
AVithin  it  he  had  j)laced  two  letters,  for  "  Whom  it 
inii:;ht  concern."  Commander  Do  Haven  also  dej)os- 
ited  a  letter  there.  It  is  believed  to  be  the  only  post- 
ollico  in  the  world,  free  for  the  use  of  all  nations.  Tiio 
rocks,  here,  ])resented  vast  lissnres  made  by  the  frost; 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  clilf  on  the  ri«^ht  that  powerful 
agent  had  cast  down  vast  hea|)s  of  debris. 

From  l^arlow's  Inlet,  cmr  expedition  moved  slowly 
westward,  battling  with  the  ice  every  rotxl  of  the  way, 
until  they  reached  (irillin's  Island,  at  about  !>({'^  west 
longitude  from  Greenwich.  This  was  attained  on  the 
11th,  afid  was  the  extreme  westing  made  by  the  expit- 
dition.  All  beyond  seemed  impt'ni^trable  ice ;  and, 
despairing  of  making  any  further  discoveries  before  the 
W'inter  sluudd  set  in,  they  resolved  tc)  return  honu\ 
Turning  eastward,  they  hoped  to  reach  Davis'  Strait 
by  the  southern  route,  before  the  cold  and  darkness 
came  on  ;  but  they  were  doomed  to  disap])ointment. 
ISV'ar  the  entrance  to  Wellington  ( -hannel  tliey  lu'came 
com])letely  locked  in  by  hummock-ice,  and  soon  foimd 
themselves  drifting  with  an  irresistible  tide  uj)  that 
channel  towarc'.  tiie  pole. 

Is'ow  began  the  most  perilous  adventures  of  the  navi- 
gators. The  sunnner  day  was  drawing  to  a  close;  the 
diurnal  visits  of  the  pale  sun  were  raj)idly  shortening, 
and  soon  the  long  polar  night,  with  all  its  darkness  and 
horrors,  would  fall  u})on  them.  Slowly  tlu^y  drifted  in 
those  vast  tields  of  ice,  whither,  or  to  what  result,  they 
kncAV  not.  Lockecl  in  the  moving  yet  compact  mass  ; 
liable  at  every  moment  to  be  crushed  ;  far  away  from 
land  ;  the  mercury  sinking  daily  lower  and  lower  from 
the  zero  figure,  toward  the  point  where  tluit  metal 
freces,  they  felt  snuUl  hope  of  ever  reaching  home  again. 
Vet  they  p!'e])ared  for  winter  comforts  and  winter  sports, 
as  cheei'fully  as  if  lying  safe  in  I'arlow's  Inlet.     As  the 


I 


>mi 


t' 


THE  AMERICAN  AECTIO  EXPEDITION. 


375 


printer  advanced,  the  crews  of  both  the  vessels  went  on 
board  the  larger  one.  They  unshipped  the  rudders  of 
each,  to  prevent  their  being  injured  by  the  ice,  cover(Ml 
the  deck  of  the  Advance  with  felt,  prepared  their  stores, 
and  made  arrangements  for  enduring  the  long  wintei-, 
now  upon  them.  Physical  and  mental  activity  being 
necessary  for  the  preservation  of  health,  they  daily  ex- 
ercised in  the  open  air  for  several  hours.  They  built 
ice  huts,  hunted  the  huge  white  bears  and  the  little  polar 
foxes,  and  when  the  darkness  of  the  winter  night  had 
spread  over  them  they  arranged  in-door  amusements 
and  employments. 

Before  the  end  of  October,  the  sun  made  its  appear- 
ance for  the  last  time,  and  the  awful  polar  night 
closed  in.  Early  in  November  they  wholly  abandoned 
the  Kescue,  and  both  crews  made  the  Advance  their 
permanent  winter  home.  The  cold  soon  became  in- 
tense ;  the  mercury  congealed,  and  the  spirit  thermome- 
ter indicated  46°  below  zero  !  Its  average  range  was 
30°  to  35°.  They  had  drifted  helplessly  up  Wellington 
Channel,  almost  to  the  latitude  from  whence  Captain 
Penny  saw  an  open  sea,  and  which  all  believe  to  bo 
the  great  polar  basin,  where  there  is  a  more  genial 
clime  than  that  which  intervenes  between  the  Arctic 
Circle  and  the  75th  degree.  Here,  when  almost  in 
Bight  of  the  open  ocean,  that  mighty  polar  tide,  with 
its  vast  masses  of  ice,  suddenly  ebbed,  and  our  little 
vessels  were  carried  back  as  resistlessly  as  before, 
through  Barrow's  Straits  into  Lancaster  Sound!  All 
this  while  the  immense  fields  of  hummock-ice  were 
moving,  and  the  vessels  were  in  hourly  danger  of  being 
crushed  and  destroyed.  At  length,  while  drifting 
through  Barrow's  Straits,  the  congealed  mass,  as  if 
crushed  together  by  the  opposite  shores,  became  more 
compact,  and  the  Advance  was  elevated  almost  seven 
feet  by  the  stern,  and  keeled  two  feet  eight  inches,  star- 
board. In  this  position  she  remained,  with  very  little 
alteration  for  five  consecutive  months  ;  for,  soon  after 
entering  Baffin's  Bay  in  tlie  midst  of  tlie  winter,  tlie 
ice  became  fi'ozeii  in  one  immense  tract,  covering  rnil- 


'■\ 


■P 

ill 


376 


rROGRESS   OF   AKCTIC    DISCOVKRY. 


lions  of  acres.  Thus  frozen  in,  sometimes  more  than  a 
Imndrecl  miles  from  hind,  tliey  drifted  slowly  along  the 
soutiiwest  coast  of  Batiin's  Bay,  a  distance  of  more  than 
a  thousand  miles  from  Wellington  Channel.  For  eleven 
■weeks  that  dreary  night  continued,  and  during  that 
time  the  disc  of  the  sun  was  never  seen  above  the  hori- 
zon. Yet  nature  was  not  wholly  forbidding  in  aspect. 
Sometimes  the  Aurora  Boreal  is  would  flash  up  still 
fui'ther  northward  ;  and  sometimes  Aurora  Parhelia^ — 
mock  suns  and  mock  moons  —  would  appear  in  varied 
beauty  in  the  starry  sky.  Brilliant,  too,  were  the  north- 
ern constellations  ;  and  when  tiie  real  moon  was  at  its 
full,  it  made  its  stately  circuit  in  the  heavens,  without 
descending  below  the  horizon,  and  lighted  up  the  vast 
2^iles  of  ice  with  a  pale  luster,  almost  as  great  as  the 
morning  twilights  of  more  genial  skies. 

Around  the  vessels  the  crews  built  a  wall  of  ice  ;  and 
in  ice  huts  they  stowed  away  their  cordage  and  stores 
to  make  room  for  exercise  on  the  decks.  They  organ- 
ized a  theatrical  company,  and  amused  themselves  and 
the  officers  with  comedy  well  performed.  Behind  the 
pieces  of  hummock  each  actor  learned  his  part,  and 
by  means  of  calico  they  transformed  themselves  into 
female  characters,  as  occasion  required.  These  dramas 
were  acted  on  the  deck  of  the  Advance,  sometimes 
while  the  thermometer  indicated  30°  below  zero,  and 
actors  and  audiences  highly  enjoyed  the  fun.  They 
also  went  in  parties  during  that  long  night,  fully  armed, 
to  hunt  the  polar  bear,  the  grim  monarch  of  the  frozen 
Korth,  on  w'hich  occasions  they  often  encountered  peril- 
ous ad  ventures.  They  jilayed  at  foot-ball,  and  exercised 
themselves  in  drawing  sledges,  heavily  laden  with  pro- 
visions. Five  hours  of  each  twenty-four,  they  thus  exer- 
cised in  the  open  air,  and  once  a  week  each  nuin  washed 
his  whole  body  in  cold  snow  watcsr.  Serious  sickness 
was  consequently  avoided,  and  the  scurvy  which  at- 
tacked them  soon  yielded  to  remedies. 

Often  during  that  fearful  night,  they  expected  the 
disaster  of  hiivini»;  their  vessels  ciMislu'd.  All  through 
IN'ovcnilKM'  ami    Dc'Ci'iuboi".  b.-'loiv  llu^  ice  ItccaiiH;  t;i.st 


TIIK    AMKUICAN   AKCTIC   KXrKniTION. 


377 


pro- 
>xer- 
5hed 

Iness 
at- 

the 

It'uHt 


tlioy  slept  in  their  clothes,  witli  Ivimpsacks  on  their 
bucks,  and  sledges  npun  the  ice,  laden  with  stores,  not 
knowing  at  what  moment  the  vessels  nii<i;ht  be  demol- 
ished, and  themselves  forced  to  leave  tiieni,  and  nnike 
their  way  toward  land.  On  tiie  8th  of  December,  and 
the  23d  of  January,  they  actually  lowered  their  boats 
and  stood  npon  the  ice,  for  the  ci  u.shing  masses  were 
making  the  timbers  of  tlie  gallant  vessel  creak  and  its 
decks  to  rise  in  the  center.  Tiiey  were  tlien  ninety 
miles  from  land,  and  hope  hardly  whispered  an  encour- 
aging idea  of  life  beino'  sustained.  On  the  latter  occa- 
sion, when  otticers  and  crew  stood  upon  the  ice,  with 
the  ropes  of  their  provision  sledges  in  their  Lands,  a 
terrible  snow-drift  came  from  the  northeast,  and  intense 
darkness  shrouded  them.  Had  the  vessel  then  been 
crushed,  all  must  have  perisiied.  But  God,  who  ruled 
the  storm,  also  put  forth  His  protecting  arm  and  saved 
them. 

Early  in  February  the  northern  horizon  began  to  be 
streaked  with  gorgeous  twilight,  the  herald  of  the  ap- 
proaching king  of  day  ;  and.  on  the  18th  the  disc  of 
the  sun  first  appeared  above  the  horizon.  As  its  golden 
rim  rose  above  the  glittering  snow-drifts  and  piles  of 
ice,  three  hearty  cheers  went  up  from  those  hardy  mar- 
iners, and  they  welcomed  their  deliverer  from  the 
chains  of  frost  a^  cordially  as  those  of  old  who  chanted, 

"See  !  the  conquering  hero  comes, 
Sound  the  trumpet,  beat  tlic  drums." 

Day  after  day  it  rose  higher  and  higher,  and  while  the 
pallid  faces  of  the  voyagers,  bleached  during  that  long 
night,  darkened  by  its  beams,  the  vast  masses  of  ice 
began  to  yield  to  its  fervid  influences.  The  scurvy  dis- 
appeared, and  from  that  time,  until  their  arrival  home, 
not  a  man  suftered  from  sickness.  As  they  slowly 
drifted  throngh  Davis'  Straits,  and  the  ice  gave  indica- 
tions of  breaking  np,  the  voyagers  made  preparations 
for  sailing.  The  Rescue  was  re-occupied,  (May  13th, 
1851,)  and  her  stone-post,  which  had  been  broken  by 
the  ice  in  Barrow's  Straits,  was  repaired.  To  accom- 
plish this,  they  were  ol)ligcd  to  dig  away  the  ice  which 


378 


PROGRESS  OF  ARCTIC  DI8C0VKRY. 


was  from  12  to  14  feet  tliick  around  lier,  as  represented 
in  t!ie  en.i^raving.     They  resliipped  their  rudders  ;  re- 
moved tlie  fell  coverin<j^ ;  phiced  their  stores  on  deck, 
and  then  patienily  awaited  the  disru])tion  of  the  ice 
Tliis  event  was  very  sudden  and  ap]Millin^.     It  began 
to  give  way  on  tlie  5th  of  June,  aiul  in  the  space  of 
twenty  minutes  tlie  whole  mass,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  ])ecame  one  vast  iield  of  moving  floes.     On  the 
loth   of  June,   thoy  emerged  into  open  water,  a  little 
south  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  in  latitude  05°  30'.     They 
immediately  repaired    to  Godhaven,  on  the  coast  of 
Greeidand,  where  they  refitted,  and,  unappalled  by  the 
perils^  through  which  they  had  just  passed,  they  once 
more  turned  their  prows  northward  to  encounter  anew 
the  ice  squadrons  of  Baffin's  Bay.     Again  they  trav- 
ersed the  coast  of  Greenland  to  about  the  73d  de- 
gree, when  they  bore  to  the  M'^estward,  and  on  the  7tb 
and  8th  of  July,  passed  the  English  whaling  fleet  near 
the   Dutch   Islands.      Onward  they  pressed   through 
the  accumulating  ice  to  Baffin's  Island,   where,  on 
the  11th,  they  were  joined  by  the  Prince  Albert,  then 
out  upon   another   cruise.     They   continued   in   com- 
pany until  the  3d  of  August,  when  the  Albert  departed 
for  the  westward,  determined  to  try  the  more  south 
ern  passage.     Here  again  our  expedition  encountered 
vast  flelds  of  hummock-ice,  and  were  subjected  to  the 
most  imminent  perils.     The  floating  ice,  as  if  moved  by 
adverse  currents,  tumbled  in  huge  masses,  and  reared 
u])on  the  sides  of  the  sturdy  little  vessels  like  monsters 
of  tlie  deep  intent  upon  destruction.      These   masses 
broke  in  the  bulwarks,  and  sometimes  fell  over  upon 
the  decks  with  terrible  force,  like  rocks  rolled  over  a 
plain  by  mountain  torrents.     The  noise  was  fearful ;  so 
deafening  that  the  mariners  could  scarcely  hear  each 
other's  voices.    The  sounds  of  these  rolling  masses,  to- 
gether with  the  rending  of  the  icebergs  floating  near, 
and  the  vast  floes,  produced  a  din  like  tlie  discharge  of 
a  thousand  pieces  of  ordnance  upon  a  field  of  battle- 
Finding  the  north  and  west  closed  against  further 
progress,  by  impenetrable  ice,  the  brave  De  Haven  was 


THE   AMERICAN   ARCTIC   EXPEDITION. 


379 


re- 


to- 


l,;ilkcd,  and  turning  liis  vessels  liomcward,  they  caino 
out  into  an  open  sea,  soniewiiat  crippled,  but  not  a 
plank  seriously  started.  During  a  storm  oft'  the  banks 
of  Newfoundland,  a  thousand  miles  from  New  York, 
the  vessels  parted  company.  The  Ad  ance  airived 
sjifely  at  the  Navy  Yard  at  I>rooklyn  on  the  30th  of 
Se])tember,  and  the  llescue  joined  her  there  a  few  days 
afterward.  Toward  the  close  of  October,  the  goveiii- 
ment  resigned  the  vessels  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  (Jrin- 
nell,  to  be  used  in  other  service,  but  witii  the  stipulation 
that  they  are  to  be  subject  to  the  order  of  the  Secretary 
of  the  Navy  in  the  spring,  if  rerpiired  for  another 
expedition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin. 

We  have  thus  given  a  very  brief  account  of  the  prin- 
cipal events  of  interest  connected  M'ith  the  American 
Arctic  Expedition  ;  tiie  officers  of  which  will  doubtless 
publish  a  more  detailed  Jiarrative.  Aside  from  the  suc- 
cess which  attended  our  little  vessels  in  encountering  the 
perils  of  the  polar  seas,  there  are  associations  which  must 
forever  hallow  the  effort  as  one  of  the  noblest  exhibitions 
of  the  true  glory  of  nations.  The  navies  of  America  and 
England  have  before  met  upon  the  ocean,  but  they  met 
for  deadly  strife.  Now,  too,  they  met  for  strife,  ecpially 
determiricd,  but  not  with  each  other.  They  met  in  the 
holy  cause  of  Ixnievolence  and  human  sympathy,  to 
battle  with  the  elements  beneath  the  Arctic  Circle  ;  and 
the  chivalric  heroism  which  the  few  stout  hearts  of  the 
two  nations  displayed  in  that  terrible  conflict,  redounds 
a  thousand-fold  more  to  the  glory  of  the  actors,  their 
governments,  and  the  race,  than  if  four-score  ships, 
with  ten  thousand  armed  men  had  fought  for  the  mas- 
tery of  each  other  upon  the  broad  ocean,  and  battered 
hulks  and  marred  corpses  had  gone  down  to  the  coral 
caves  of  the  sea,  a  dreadful  offering  to  the  demon  of 
Discord.  In  the  latter  event,  troops  of  widows  and  or- 
phan children  would  have  sent  up  a  cry  of  wail  ;  now, 
the  heroes  advanced  manfully  to  rescue  husbands  and 
fiithers  to  restore  them  to  their  wives  and  children. 
How  glorious  the  thought !  and  how  suggestive  of  the 

lien  the  nations 


* 


:auty 


ap[. 


^y^ 


.      *•  4 


->3 


380 


ruooiu<:ss  of  Aucric  disco vkuy. 


shall  Rlt  down  in  pcaco 
household. 


as  united   children  of  ono 


"Winter  in  the  Akctic  Ocean. 

The  following  narrative,  showing  tlic  way  the  wintei 
of  1851-52  was  passed  by  those  engaged  in  the  recent 
arctic  expedition,  is  from  the  oflicial  report  made  by 
Lieut.  De  Haven,  the  Commander  of  tiie  exj)edition  : 

"On  tlie  morning  of  the  llJtIi  Se])t.,  1850,  the  wind 
having  moderated  sutliciently,  we  got  under  way,  and 
working  our  way  through  some  streams  of  ice,  arrived 
in  a  few  hours  at  '  Gritllth's'  Ishiiid,  under  the  lee  of 
M'hich  we  found  our  consort  nnido  fast  to  the  shore, 
where  she  had  taken  shelter  in  the  gale,  her  cre\y  hav- 
ing suffered  a  good  deal  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather.  In  bringing  to  under  the  lee  of  the  island, 
she  had  the  misfortune  to  s])ring  her  rudder,  so  that  on 
joining  ns,  it  was  witii  much  ditHcidty  she  could  steer. 
To  insure  her  safety  and  more  rapid  j^rogress,  she  was 
taken  in  tow  by  the  Advance,  when  she  bore  up  with 
a  fine  breeze  from  tlie  westward.  Oft*  Cape  Martyr, 
we  left  the  English  squadron  nnder  Capt.  Austin. 
Abont  ten  miles  further  to  the  cast,  the  two  vessels  un- 
der Capt.  Penny,  and  that  under  Sir  John  Eoss,  were 
seen  secured  near  the  land.  At  8  r.  m..  we  had  ad- 
vanced as  far  as  Cape  ITotham.  Thence  as  far  as  the 
increasing  darkness  of  the  niijht  enabled  us  to  see,  there 
was  nothing  to  obstruct  our  progress,  except  the  ba}'' 
ice.  This,  with  a  good  breeze,  woidd  not  have  im- 
peded us  much  ;  but  nnfortunately  the  wind,  when  it  was 
most  required,  failed  ns.  The  snow,  with  which  the 
surface  of  the  w^ater  was  covered,  rai)idly  cemented, 
and  formed  a  tenacious  coat,  through  which  it  was  im- 
possible with  all  dur appliances  to  force  tiie  vessels.  At 
8  p.  M.,  they  came  to  a  dead  stand,  some  ten  miles  to 
the  east  of  Barlow's  Inlet. 

"The  following  day  the  wind  hauled  to  the  southward, 
from.whicii  quarter  it  lasted  till  the  10th.  During  this 
period  tiie  young  ice  was  broken,  its  edges  squeezed  u\) 


WINTKU    IN   THK    AKCTIO   OCKAN. 


381 


like  liaiTunocks,  ami  one  floe  ovcrnin  by  another  until 
it  all  assumed  tlie  appearance  ot*  heavy  ice.  The  ves- 
sels received  some  iieavy  ni)>s  Irnm  it,  hnt  they  with- 
stood them  without  injury.  Whenever  a  nool  of  water 
made  its  ap^jearance,  every  ellort  was  made  to  reach  it, 
in  hopes  that  it  woidd  lead  us  into  IJeechey  Island,  oi' 
some  other  place  where  the  vessel  miylit  he  j>lace(l  ii\ 
security  ;  for  the  winter  set  in  unusually  early,  and  the 
severity  with  which  it  connnenced,  forbade  all  lioj>es 
of  our  being  able  to  return  this  season.  I  now  became 
anxious  to  attain  a  ])oint  in  the  neighboi'hood,  from 
whence  by  means  of  land  parties,  in  the  si)riniif,  a  goodly 
extent  of  Wellington  Channel  might  be  examined. 

"In  the  mean  time,  under  the  influence  of  the  south 
wind,  we  were  being  set  up  the  channel.  On  the  18th 
we  were  above  Ca])e  IJowden,  the  most  northern  ])oint 
seen  on  this  shore  by  Parry.  The  land  on  both  shores 
was  seen  much  furthei*,  and  trended  considerably  to  the 
west  of  north.  To  account  for  this  drift,  the  fixed  ico 
of  Wellington  Channel,  which  we  had  observed  in  pass- 
ing to  the  westward,  must  have  been  broken  uv  m  d 
driven  to  the  southward  by  the  heavy  gale  of  the  J2ih. 
On  the  10th  the  wind  veered  to  the  north,  which  g  ive 
us  a  southerly''  set,  forcing  us  at  the  same  time  with  the 
western  shore.  This  did  not  last  long ;  for  the  next  day 
the  wind  hauled  again  to  the  sontli,  and  blew  fresh, 
bringing  the  ice  in  uj)on  us  with  mnch  pressure.  At 
midnight  it  broke  up  all  around  us,  8t>  that  we  had  work 
to  maintain  the  Advance  in  a  safe  ])osition,  and  keep 
her  from  being  separated  from  her  consort,  which  was 
immovably  fixed  in  the  center  of  a  lai'ge  floe. 

"  We  continued  to  drift  slowly  to  the  N.  N.  W.,  until 
the  22d,  when  our  })rogress  appeared  to  be  arrested  by 
a  small  low  island,  which  was  discovered  in  that  direc- 
tion, about  seven  miles  distant.  A  channel  of  three  or 
four  miles  in  width  separated  it  from  Cornwall  is  Island. 
This  latter  island,  trending  N.  W.  from  our  jmsition, 
terminated  abruptly  in  an  elevated  ca])e,  to  which  I 
have  given  the  name  of  Manning,  alter  a  warm  ]>cr- 
sonal  friend  and  ardent  sup])orter  of  the  ex])edition. 


'li 


$1 


382 


PROGRESS    OP   ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


lietvvoen  Cornwallia  Islftnd  and  some  distant  l»i<ijh  land 
visible  in  the  north,  api)eare(l  a  wide  channel  leadin;» 
to  the  westward.  A  dark,  mi  sty -looking  ck>ud  which 
liung  over  it,  (technically  termed  frost-smoke,)  was  in- 
dicative of  nmch  open  water, in  that  direction.  Tiiis 
was  the  directii)n  in  which  my  instructions,  referring  to 
the  investigations  of  the  National  Observatory,  concern- 
ing the  winds  and  currents  of  the  ocean,  directed  me  to 
look  for  open  water.  Nor  was  the  open  water  the  only 
indication  that  j)resentcd  itself  in  confirmation  of  this 
theoretical  conjecture  as  to  a  milder  climate  in  that 
direction.  As  we  entered  Wellington  Channel,  the 
signs  of  animal  life  became  more  abundant,  and  Cap- 
tain Pennv,  commander  of  one  of  the  English  ex])e- 
ditions,  who  afterward  penetrated  on  sledges  mnch 
toward  the  region  of  the  '  frost-smoke,'  much  further 
than  it  was  possible  for  ns  to  do  in  our  vessels  reported 
that  he  actually  arrived  on  the  borders  of  this  open  sea. 
"Tims,  these  admirably  drawn  instructions,  deriving 
arguments  from  the  enlarged  and  comprehensive  sys- 
tem of  physical  research,  not  only  pointed  with  em- 
phasis to  an  unknown  sea  into  which  Franklin  had 
probably  found  bis  way,  but  directed  me  to  search  for 
traces  of  his  expedition  in  the  very  channel  at  the 
entrance  of  which  it  is  now  ascertained  he  had  passed 
his  first  winter.  The  direction  in  which  search  with 
most  chances  of  success  is  now  to  be  made  for  the 
missing  expedition,  or  for  traces  of  it,  is  no  doubt  in 
the  direction  which  is  so  clearly  pointed  out  in  my  in- 
structions. To  the  channel  which  appeared  to  lead 
into  the  open  sea  over  which  the  cloud  of '  frost-smoke ' 
hung  as  a  sign,  I  have  given  the  name  of  Maury,  after 
the  distinguished  gentleman  at  the  head  of  our  National 
Observatory,  wliose  theory  with  regard  to  an  open  sea 
to  tlie  north  is  likely  to  be  realized  through  this  chan- 
nel. To  the  large  mass  of  land  visible  between  N.  W. 
to  N.  N.  E.,  I  gave  the  name  of  Grinnell,  in  honor  of 
the  head  and  heart  of  the  man  in  whose  philanthropio 
mind  orinfinnterl  the  idea  of  Mils  expedition,  and  !*■<; 
who-^e  munifie  nre  it  owes  its  existence. 


WINTKR   IN   TlIK   ARCTIC  OCKAN. 


383 


IIS 


>pic 


"To  a  renmrkultle  pouk  ]>eiu'ing  N.  N.  E.  from  us, 
distant  iiljout  forty  luilcs,  was  given  the  name  of 
Mount  Franklin.  An  inlet  or  luirhor  immediately  to 
the  north  of  (Jano  Uovvden  wan  discovered  by  Mr. 
GritHn  in  his  hind  excursion  from  Point  Innes,  on  tiio 
27th  of  August,  and  has  received  the  name  of  GritHn 
Inlet.  The  small  island  mentioned  before  was  called 
Murdangh's  Island,  after  the  acting  nuister  of  the  Ad- 
vance. The  eastern  shore  of  AVellington  Channel  ap- 
peared to  run  ])arallel  with  the  Mestern,  but  it  became 
quite  low,  and  being  covered  with  snow,  could  not  bo 
distinguished  with  certainty,  so  that  its  continuity  with 
the  high  land  to  the  north  was  not  ascertained.  Some 
enuUl  pools  of  open  water  aj)])earing  near  us,  an  attempt 
was  made  about  iifty  yards,  but  all  our  combined 
efibrts  were  of  no  avail  in  extricating  the  liescue  from 
her  icy  cradle.  A  change  of  wind  not  only  closed  the 
ice  np  again,  but  threatened  to  give  a  severe  nip.  We 
imshipped  her  rudder  and  jiluced  it  out  of  harm's  way. 

"Septend)er  22d,  was  an  uncomfortable  day.  The 
"wind  was  from  N.  E.  with  snow.  From  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning,  the  floes  began  to  be  pressed  together 
with  so  much  force  that  their  edge  was  thrown  up  in 
immense  ridsr^'S  of  rui^ijed  hummocks.  The  Advance 
was  heavily  nipped  betwc^en  two  iloes,  and  the  ice  was 
piled  up  so  high  above  the  rail  on  tiie  starboard  side 
as  to  threaten  to  come  on  board  and  sink  iis  with  its 
weight.  All  hands  were  occupied  in  keeping  it  out. 
Tiie  pressure  and  commotion  did  not  cease  till  near 
midnight,  when  we  were  very  glad  to  have  a  respite 
from  our  labors  and  fears.  Tiie  next  day  we  were 
threatened  with  a  similar  scene,  but  it  fortunately 
ceased  in  a  short  time.  For  the  remainder  of  Septem- 
ber, and  until  the  4th  ^of  October,  the  vessels  drifted 
bnt  little.  The  winds  were  very  light,  the  thermometer 
fell  to  minus  12,  and  ice  formed  over  the  pools  in  sight, 
Rufficiently  strong  to  travel  upon.  We  were  now 
strongly  impressed  with  the  belief  that  the  ice  had  be- 
come fixed  for  the  winter,  and  that  we  should  be  able 
to  send  out  traveling] dirties  from  the  advanced  podtion 

17* 


1 


884 


PR00UEH8    OK    AKCTIC    DISCOVKltV. 


for  the  exttniiniition  of  the  hinds  to  the  northward 
Stnmihvtetl  by  this  fair  pronpoet,  another  attempt  wan 
made  to  reaeh  the  shore  in  order  to  establish  u  dej)o^ 
of  provisions  at  or  near  Cape  Manning,  wliicli  would 
niateriallv  facilitate  tlio  pro'^ress  of  our  parties  in  tlip 
spring  ;  but  the  ice  was  still  found  to  be  detached  froip 
the  shore,  and  a  narrow  lane  of  water  cut  us  from  it. 

"  During  the  interval  of  comparative  quiet,  ])relimi 
nary  measures  were  taken  for  heating  the  Advance 
and  increasing  lun*  quarters,  bo  as  to  accomodate  the 
otHcers  and  crew  of  l)oth  vessels.  No  stoves  had  as 
yet  been  used  in  either  vessel ;  indeed  they  could  not 
well  be  put  up  without  placing  a  large  quantity  of  stores 
and  fuel  upon  the  ice.  Tlie  attempt  was  made  to  do 
this,  but  a  sudden  crack  in  tlie  floe  where  it  ap]3eared 
strongest,  causing  the  loss  of  several  tons  of  coal,  con- 
vinced US  that  it  was  not  yet  safe  to  do  so.  It  was  not 
until  the  2()th  of  October,  we  got  tires  below.  Ten 
days  later  the  housing  cloth  was  put  over,  and  the  offi- 
cers and  crew  of  the  lloscue  ordered  on  board  the  Ad- 
vance for  the  winter.  Room  was  found  on  the  deck  of 
tlie  Rescue  for  many  of  the  provisions  removed  from 
the  hold  of  this  vessel.  Still  a  large  quantity  had  to 
be  placed  on  the  ice.  The  absence  of  lire  below  had 
caused  much  discomfort  to  all  hands  ever  since  the  be- 
ginning of  September,  not  so  much  from  the  low  tem- 
perature, as  from  the  accumulation  of  moisture  by 
condensation,  which  congealed  as  the  temperature  de- 
creased, and  covered  the  wood  work  of  our  apartments 
with  ice.  This  state  of  things  soon  began  to  work  its 
effect  upon  the  health  of  the  crews.  Several  cases  of 
scurvy  appeared  among  them,  and  notwithstanding  the 
indetatiijable  attention  and  active  treatment  resorted  to 
by  the  medical  officers,  it  could  not  be  eradicated  —  its 
progress,  however,  was  checked. 

"All  througli  October  and  November,  we  were  drifted 
to  and  fro  by  the  changing  wind,  but  never  passing  out 
of  Wellington  Chaimel.  On  the  1st  of  November,  the 
new  ice  had  attained  the  thickness  of  37  inches.  Still, 
frequent  breaks  would  occur  in  it,  often  in  fearful  prox- 


WINTKtt    IN   TIIK   AUCrriO    OOKAN. 


885 


(Tiiity  to  the  vospt'ls.  TTummooks  consisting  of  massivo 
graiiite-liko  bl.ks,  would  1j(^  thrown  up  to  the  liui^ht 
of  twenty,  and  even  thirty  feet.  This  action  in  the  ico 
was  aeconipanied  with  a  varicsty  of  sounds  inipo88il)lo 
to  be  deseribod,  but  wlien  heard  never  failed  to  carry  a 
feeling  of  awe  into  the  stoutest  hearts.  lu  tiie  stillness 
of  an  arctic  night,  they  could  bo  heard  several  miles, 
and  otlen  was  the  rest  of  all  hands  disturl)ed  by  them. 
To  guard  against  the  worst  that  could  ha])pen  to  us— - 
the  destruction  of  the  vessels  —  the  boats  were  prepared 
and  sledges  built.  Thirty  days'  provisions  were  placed 
in  for  all  hands,  together  with  tents  and  blanket  bags 
for  sleeping  in.  Besides  tliis,  each  num  and  otlicer  had 
his  knansack  containing  an  extra  suit  of  clothes.  These 
were  all  kept  in  readiness  for  use  at  a  moment's  notice. 
"For  the  sake  of  wholeso!ue  exercise,  as  well  as  to  in- 
ure the  ])eople  to  ice  traveling,  fre(|uent  excursions  were 
made  with  our  laden  sledges.  The  oflicers  usually  took 
the  lead  at  the  drag  ropes,  and  tiiev,  as  well  as  the  men 
underwent  the  labor  of  surniountiiin:  the  ruijired  hum- 
mocks,  with  great  cheerfulness  and  zeal.  Notwith- 
standing the  low  tem])erature,  all  hands  usually  returned 
in  a  profuse  perspiration.  AVe  had  also  other  sources 
of  exer,cise  and  amusements,  such  as  foot-ball,  skating, 
sliding,  racing,  with  theatrical  representations  on  holi- 
days and  national  anniversaries.  These  amusements 
were  continued  throughout  the  winter,  and  contributed 
very  materially  to  the  cheerfulness  t^  .a  general  good 
health  of  all  hands.  The  drift  had  st .  us  gradually  to 
the  S.  E.,  until  we  were  about  five  miles  to  the  S.  W. 
of  liecchey  Island.  In  this  position  we  remained  com- 
paratively stationary  about  a  week.  We  once  more 
began  to  entertain  a  hope  that  we  had  become  fixed  for 
the  winter,  but  it  proved  a  vain  one,  for  on  the  last  day 
of  November  a  strong  wind  from  the  westward  set  in, 
with  thick  snowy  weather.  The  wind  created  an  im- 
mediate movement  in  the  ice.  Several  fractures  took 
place  near  us,  and  many  heavy  hummocks  were  thrown 
U]).  The  floe  in  which  our  vessels  were  imbedded,  was 
being  rapidly  encroached  upon,  so  that  we  were  in  mo- 


3SG 


I'KOOUKSS   OF  AKCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


mentary  feav  of  tlic  ice  breaking  from  around  them, 
and  tliat  they  would  l)e  once  more  broken  out  and  left 
to  tlie  tender  mercies  of  tlie  crashing  floes. 

"  On  the  followincj  day  (the  1st  of  December)  the 
weather  cleared  off,  and  the  few"  liours  of  twilight 
\vhich  we  had  about  noon,  enabled  us  to  get  a  glimi)se 
of  the  land.  As  well  as  we  could  m.ake  it  out,  we  ap- 
peared to  be  off  Gascoigne  Inlet.  We  were  now  clear 
of  Wellington  Channel,  and  in  the  fair  way  of  Lan- 
caster Sound,  to  be  set  either  up  or  down,  at  the  mercy 
of  the  prevailijij;  winds  and  currents.  AVe  were  not 
long  leit  in  doul)t  as  to  the  direction  we  had  to  pursue. 
Tlie  winds  prevailed  from  the  westw^ard,  and  our  drift 
was  steady  and  rai)id  toward  the  mouth  of  the  Sound. 
The  pros])ect  befoi  e  us  was  now  any  thing  but  cheering. 
We  wore  deprived  of  our  last  fond  liope,  that  of  be- 
coming fixed  in  some  ])osition  whence  operations  could 
be  carried  on  by  means  of  traveling  ])artles  in  the 
spring.  The  vessels  M'ero  fast  being  set  out  of  the 
region  of  search.  Nor  Avas  this  our  only  source  of  un- 
easiness. The  line  of  our  drift  was  from  two  to  five 
miles  from  the  north  shore,  and  whenever  the  moving 
ice  met  with  any  of  the  capes  or  projecting  points  of 
land,  the  obstruction  would  cause  fractures  in  it,  ex- 
tending off  to  and  far  beyond  us.  Cape  Ilurd  w^as  the 
first  and  most  prominent  point  —  wc  were  but  two 
miles  from  it  on  the  3d  of  December.  Nearly  all  day 
the  ice  was  both  seen  and  heard  to  be  in  constant  mo- 
tion at  no  great  distance  from  us.  In  the  evening  a 
crack  on  our  floe  took  ])lace  not  more  than  twenty -five 
yards  ahead  of  tlie  Advance.  It  opened  in  the  course 
of  the  evening  to  the  width  of  100  yards, 

"  No  further  disturbance  took  ])lace  until  noon  of  the 
5th,  when  we  were  somewliat  startled  by  the  familiar 
and  unmistakable  sound  of  the  ice  grinding  against 
the  side  of  tiie  shi]).  Going  on  deck,  I  perceived  that 
another  crack  had  taken  ])lace,  passing  along  the  length 
of  the  vessel.  It  did  not  o]Hm  more  than  a  foot;  this, 
liowever,  was  sufHcicnt  to  liberate  the  vessel,  and  she 
rose  several  inches  bodily,  having  become  more  buoy- 


' 


WINTKK    IN   Till-:   AliCl'lU    OCEAN. 


387 


: 


aii^  since  she  froze  in.  Tiie  followins;  day,  in  the 
ev  ling  the  crack  opened  several  yards,  leaving  the 
sides  oV  the  Advance  entirely  free,  aiid  slie  was  once 
more  snpported  by  and  rode  in  her  own  element.  AVe 
were  not,  thongli,  by  any  means,  in  a  pleasant  situation. 
Tile  floes  were  considerably  broken  in  all  directions 
around  us,  and  one  crack  had  taken  place  between  the 
two  vessels.  The  liescue  was  not  disturbed  in  her  bed 
of  ice. 

"  December  Tth,  at  8  A.  M.,  the  crack  in  which  we 
were,  liad  opened  and  formed  a  lane  of  water  iifty-six 
feet  wide,  communicating  aliead  at  the  distance  of  sixty 
feet  with  ice  of  about  one  foot  in  thickness,  which  had 
formed  since  the  Jkl.  The  vessel  was  secured  to  the 
largest  floe  near  us  (that  on  which  our  spare  stores  were 
deposited.)  At  noon,  tiie  ice  was  again  in  motion, 
and  began  to  cU)se,  uiibrding  us  the  pleasant  prospect 
of  an  inevitable  nip  betw.een  two  floes  of  the  heaviest 
kind.  In  a  short  time  the  prominent  jioints  took  our 
side,  on  the  starboard,  just  about  the  main-rigging,  and 
on  the  ])ort  under  tiie  counter,  and  at  the  fore-rigging; 
thus  bringing  tiiree  points  of  pressure  in  such  a  position 
that  it  must  have  proved  fatal  to  a  larger  or  less 
strengthened  vessel.  Tiie  Advance,  however,  stood  it 
bravely.  After  trembling  and  groaning  in  every  joint, 
the  ice  passed  under  and  raised  her  about  two  and 
a  half  feet.  Slie  was  let  down  again  for  a  moment, 
and  then  her  stern  was  raised  about  Ave  feet.  ITer 
bows  being  unsupported,  were  de]iressed  almost  as 
much.  In  this  uncomfortable  position  we  remained. 
The  wind  blew  a  gale  from  the  eastward,  and  the  ice 
all  around  was  in  dreadful  commotion,  exce]iting,  for- 
tunately, that  in  immediate  contact  with  us.  The  com- 
motion in  the  ice  continued  all  tlirough  the  night;  and 
we  were  in  momentary  expectation  of  the  destruction 
of  both  vessels.  Tiie  easterly  gale  had  set  us  some 
two  or  three  miles  to  the  west.  As  soon  as  it  was  light 
enough  to  see  on  the  9th,  it  liras  discovered  that  the 
heavy  ice  on  which  the  Tvl^cue  iiad  been  imbedded 
for  so  long  a  time,  was  entirely  broken  up,  and  piled 


"^ 


»8S 


PliOGBESS   OF   AKCrriO    DISCOVEKT. 


lip  around  her  in  massive  liumniocks.  On  her  pumps 
being  sounded,  I  was  gratiiied  to  learn  that  she  remained 
tiglit,  notwithstanding  tlie  immense  straining  and 
pressure  she  must  have  endured. 

"  During  this  period  of  trial,  as  well  as  in  all  former 
and  subsequent  ones,  I  could  not  avoid  being  struck 
with  the  calmness  and  decision  of  the  officers,  as  well 
as  the  subordination  and  good  conduct  of  the  men, 
without  an  exception.  Each  one  knew  the  imminen(;e 
of  the  peril  that  surrounded  us,  and  was  pre})ared  to 
abide  it  with  a  stout  heart.  There  was  no  noise,  no 
confusion.  I  did  not  detect,  even  in  the  moment  when 
the  destruction  of  the  vessel  seemed  inevitable,  a  sin- 
gle desponding  look  among  the  whole  crew ;  on  the 
contrary,  each  one  seemed  resolved  to  do  his  whole 
duty,  and  every  thing  went  on  cheerily  and  bravely. 
For  my  own  part,  1  had  become  quite  an  invalid,  so 
much  so  as  to  prevent  my  taking  an  active  part  in  the 
duties  of  the  vessel  as  I  had  always  done,  or  even  from 
incurring  the  exposure  necessary  to  proper  exercise. 
However,  I  felt  no  apprehensions  that  tlie  vessel  would 
ni>t  be  properly  taken  care  of,  for  I  had  perfect  conli- 
dence  in  one  and  all  by  whom  I  was  surrounded.  I 
knew  them  to  be  equal  to  any  emergency,  but  I  I'elt 
under  special  obligations  to  the  gallant  commander 
of  the  Rescue,  for  the  efficient  aid  he  render(!d  me. 
With  the  kindest  consideration,  and  the  most  cheeiful 
alacrity,  he  volunteered  to  ])erf()rm  the  executive  duties 
during  the  winter,  and  relieve  me  from  everv  thing 
that  might  tend  in  the  least  to  retard  my  recovery. 

"  During  the  remainder  of  December,  the  ice  re- 
mained quiet  immediately  around  us,  and  breaks  vveie 
all  strongly  cemented  by  new  ice.  In  our  neighbor- 
hood, however,  ci'acks  were  daily  visil>le.  Our  drift 
to  the  eastward  averaged  nearly  six  miles  per  day;  so 
that  on  the  last  of  the  month  we  were  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Sound,  Cape  Osborn  bearing  north  from  us. 

"January,  1851. —  On  passing  out  of  the  Sound,  and 
opening  BatKn's  Bay,  to  the  north  was  seen  a  dark  hoi-i- 
zon,  indicating  much  open  water  in  that  direction.     On 


1,1 


W'lNTl^R   IN   TirE   AKCTIC  OCEAN. 


389 


? 


the  11th,  a  crack  took  place  between  us  and  the  Rescue, 
passing  close  under  our  stern,  and  Ibrniinjr  a  lane  of 
water  eighty  feet  wide.  In  the  afternoon  the  iioes  be- 
ijan  to  move,  the  lane  was  closed  up,  and  the  edges  of 
the  ice  coming  in  contact  with  so  much  pressure,  tlireat- 
ened  the  demolition  of  the  narrow  space  which  sepa- 
rated us  from  the  line  ot  fracture.  Fortunately,  the 
floes  again  separated,  and  assumed  a  motion  by  which 
the  Rescue  passed  from  our  stern  to  the  port  bow,  and 
increased  her  distance  from  us  701)  yards,  where  she 
came  to  a  stand.  Our  stores  that  were  on  the  ice  were 
on  the  same  side  of  the  cracks  as  the  Itescue,  and  of 
course  were  carried  with  her.  The  following  day  the 
ice  remained  quiet,  but  soon  after  midnight,  on  the 
13th,  a  gale  having  sprung  up  from  the  westwaiu,  it 
once  more  got  into  violent  motion.  The  young  ice  in 
the  crack  near  our  stern  was  soon  broken  up,  the  edges 
of  the  thick  ice  camo  in  contact,  and  fearful  pressures 
took  ])lace,  forcing  up  a  line  of  hummocks  which  ap- 
proached within  ten  feet  of  our  stern.  The  vessel 
trembled  and  complained  a  great  deal. 

"  At  last  the  floe  broke  u[)  around  us  into  many 
pieces,  and  became  detached  from  the  sides  of  the 
vessel.  The  scene  of  irightful  commotion  lasted  until 
4  A.  M.  Every  moment  I  expected  the  vessel  would 
be  crushed  or  overwhelmed  by  the  massive  ice  forced 
up  far  above  our  bulwarks.  The  Rescue  being  further 
removed  on  the  other  side  of  the  crack  from  the  line 
of  crushing,  and  being  firmly  imbedded  in  heavy  ice, 
I  was  in  hopes  would  remain  undisturbed.  This  was 
not  the  case ;  for,  on  sending  to  her  as  soon  as  it  was 
light  enough  to  see,  the  floe  was  found  to  be  broken 
away  entirely  up  to  her  bows,  and  there  formed  into 
such  high  hummocks  that  her  bowsprit  was  broken  ofl*, 
together  with  her  head,  and  all  the  light  wood  Mork 
about  it.  Had  the  action  of  the  ice  continued  much 
longer,  she  must  have  been  destroyed.  We  had  the 
misfortune  to  find  sad  havoc  had  been  made  among 
the  stores  and  provisions  left  on  the  ice ;  and  few  bar- 
rels wei'e  recovered ;  but  a  large  portion  were  crushed 
and  had  disa])peared. 


390 


ntOOKESS    OF    AIJCTIC    DISCOVERY. 


"  On  the  morning  of  the  14th  there  was  again  some 
mention  in  the  floes.  Tiuit  on  tlie  port  side  moved  otf 
from  the  vessel  two  or  three  feet  and  there  became 
stationary.  Tins  lefr,  tiie  vessel  entirely  detached 
frum  the  ice  round  the  water  line,  and  it  was  expected 
she  would  once  more  resume  an  upright  position.  In 
this,  however,  we  were  disappointed,  for  she  remained 
with  her  stern  elevated,  and  a  considerable  lift  to  star- 
board, being  held  in  this  uncomfortable  position  by  the 
heavy  masses  which  had  been  forced  under  her  bottom 
She  retained  thjs  position  until  she  finally  broke  out 
in  tlie  spring..  We  were  now  fully  launched  into  Bat- 
fin's  Bay,  and  our  line  of  drift  began  to  be  more  south- 
erly, assuming  a  direction  nearly  parallel  with  the 
western  shore  of  the  Bay  at  a  distance  of  from  40  to 
70  miles  from  it. 

"  After  an  absence  of  87  days,  the  sun,  on  the  29th 
of  January,  rose  his  whole  diameter  above  the  eouth- 
ern  horizon,  and  remained  visible  more  than  an  hour. 
All  hands  gave  vent  to  delight  on  seeing  an  old  friend 
again,  in  three  hearty  cheers.  The  length  of  the  days 
now  went  on  increasing  rapidly,  but  no  warmth  was 
yet  experienced  from  the  sun's  rays ;  on  the  contrary 
the  cold  became  more  intense.  Mercury  became  con- 
gealed in  February,  also  in  March,  which  did  not  occur 
at  any  other  period  during  the  winter.  A  very  low 
temperature  was  invariably  accompanied  with  clear 
and  calm  weather,  so  that  our  coldest  days  were  per- 
haps the  most  pleasant.  In  the  absence  of  wind,  we 
could  take  exerci  o  in  the  open  air  without  any  incon- 
venience from  the  cold.  But  with  a  strong  wind  blow 
ing,  it  was  dangerous  to  be  exposed  to  its  chilling  blasts 
for  any  length  of  time,  even  when  the  thermometer 
indicated  a  comparatively  moderate  degree  of  tem- 
perature. 

"The  ice  around  the  vessels  soon  became  cemented 
again  and  fixed,  and  no  other  rupture  was  exjjerienced 
until  it  finall}'^  broke  up  in  tlie  spring,  and  allowed  us 
to  escape.  Still  we  ke]>t  driving  to  the  southward 
along  with  the  ^\  hole  mass.     Open  lanes  of  water  were 


WINTER  IN  THE   AKCTIO   OCEAN. 


391 


visible  at  all  times  from  aloft ;  sometimes  they  would 
be  formed  within  a  mile  or  two  of  us.  Narwhals, 
seals,  and  dovekys  were  seen  in  them.  Our  sports- 
men were  not  expert  enough  to  procure  any,  except  a 
few  of  the  latter ;  although  tliey  were  indefatigable  in 
their  exertions  to  do  so.  Bears  would  frequently  be 
seen  prowling  about ;  only  two  were  killed  during  the 
winter ;  others  were  wounded,  but  made  their  escape. 
A  few  of  us  thought  their  flesh  very  palatable  and 
wholesome ;  but  the  majority  utterly  rejected  it.  The 
flesh  of  the  seal,  when  it  could  be  obtained,  was  re- 
ceived with  more  favor. 

"  As  the  season  advanced,  the  cases  of  scurvy  became 
more  numerous,  yet  they  were  all  kept  under  control 
by  the  unwearied  attention  and  skillful  treatment  of 
the  medical  oflicers.  My  thanks  are  due  to  them,  es- 
pecially to  Passed  Assistant  Surgeon  Kane,  the  senior 
medical  officer  of  the  expedition.  I  often  had  occa- 
sion to  consult  him  concerning  the  hygiene  of  the 
ci-ew,  and  it  is  in  a  great  measure  owing  to  the  advice 
which  he  gave  and  the  expedients  which  he  recom- 
mended, that  the  expedition  was  enabled  to  return 
without  the  loss  of  one  man.  By  the  latter  end  of 
February  the  ice  had  become  sufficiently  thick  to  en- 
able us  to  build  a  trench  around  the  stern  of  the  Res- 
cue, sufficiently  deep  to  ascertain  the  extent  of  the 
injury  she  had  received  in  the  gale  at  Griffith's  Isl- 
and. It  was  not  found  to  be  material ;  the  upper  gud- 
geon alone  had  been  wrenched  from  the  stern  post.  It 
was  adjusted,  and  the  rudder  repaired  in  readiness  for 
shipping,  when  it  should  be  required.  A  new  bow- 
sprit wus  also  made  for  her  out  of  the  few  spare  spars 
we  had  left,  and  every  thing  made  seaworthy  in  both 
vessels  before  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice. 

'*  In  May,  the  noon-day  began  to  take  effect  upon  the 
snow  which  covered  the  ice  ;  the  surface  of  the  floes 
became  watery,  and  difficult  to  walk  over.  Still  the 
dissolution  was  so  slow  in  comparison  with  the  mass 
to  be  dissolved,  tliat  it  must  have  taken  it  a  long  pe- 
riod to  become  liberated  from  this  cause  alone.     More 


392 


PliOaiiESS   OE  ARCTIC   DISCOVERY. 


was  expected  from  our  southerly  drift,  wliich  still  con- 
tinued, and  must  soon  carry  us  into  a  milder  climuto 
and  open  sea.  On  the  JOth  of  May,  the  land  about 
Cape  Searle  was  made  out,  the  In-st  that  we  had  seen 
since  passing  Cape  Walter  Bathurst,  about  the  20th  of 
January.  A  few  days  later  we  were  off  Cape  Walsing- 
ham,  and  on  the  27th,  passed  out  of  tlie  Arctic  Zone. 

"  On  the  1st  of  Aj^ril,  a  hole  was  cut  in  some  ice  that 
had  been  fonning  since  our  lirst  besetnient  in  Septem- 
ber; it  was  found  to  have  attained  tlic  thickness  of  7 
feet  2  inches.  In  this  month,  (April,)  the  amelioration 
of  the  temi)erature  became  quite  sensible.  All  hands 
were  ke])t  at  work,  cutting  and  sawing  the  ice  around 
the  vessels,  in  order  to  allow  them  to  lloat  once  more. 
"With  the  Kescue,  they  succeeded,  after  much  labor,  in 
attaining  this  object ;  but  around  the  stern  of  the  Ad- 
vance, the  ice  was  so  thick  that  our  13  feet  saw  was  too 
short  to  pass  through  it ;  her  bows  and  sides,  as  far  aft 
as  the  gangway,  were  liberated.  After  making  some 
alteration  in  the  Rescue  for  the  better  accommodation 
of  her  crew,  and  fires  being  lighted  on  board  of  her 
several  days  previous,  to  remove  the  ice  and  dampness, 
which  had  accumulated  during  the  winter,  both  officers 
and  crew  were  transferred  to"  her  on  the  24th  of  April. 
The  stores  of  this  vessel,  Mdiich  had  been  taken  out, 
were  restored,  the  housing  cloth  taken  oif,  and  the  ves- 
sel made  in  every  respect  ready  for  sea.  There  was 
little  prospect,  however,  of  our  being  able  to  reach  the 
desired  element  very  soon.  The  nearest  water  was  a 
narrow  lane  more  than  two  miles  distant.  To  cut 
through  tlie  ice  which  intervened,  would  have  been  next 
to  impossible.  IJeyond  this  lane,  from  the  mast-head, 
nothing  but  intermeinnte  floes  could  be  seen.  It  was 
thought  best  to  wait  witli  patience,  and  allow  nature  to 
work  for  us. 

"•  June  6th,  a  moderate  breeze  from  £.  E.  with  pleasant 
weather  —  thermometer  up  to  40  at  noon,  and  altogether 
quite  warm  and  melting  day.  During  the  morning  a 
peculiar  cracking  sound  was  heard  on  the  floe.  I  was 
mclined  to  impute  it  to  the  settling  of  the  snowdrifts  as 


■WINTiat  IN   TlIK  AKCriO   OCI':AN. 


393 


;h  still  con- 
ler  clinuito 
land  about 
3  had  seen 
the  20th  of 
)e  Walsing- 
rctic  Zone. 
me  ice  that 
in  Septem- 
ckness  of  7 
melioration 
All  hands 
ice  around 
once  more, 
ch  labor,  in 
of  the  Ad- 
saw  was  too 
)s,  as  far  aft 
aking  some 
inmodation 
)ard  of  her 
dampness, 
)otli  officers 
li  of  April, 
taken  out, 
nd  the  ves- 
There  was 
o  reach  the 
ater  was  a 
t.    To   cut 
e  been  next 
mast-head, 
n.    It  was 
V  nature  to 


they  were  acted  upon  by  the  sun,  but  in  the  afternoon, 
about  5  o'clock,  tiie  ])uzzle  was  solved  very  lucidly,  and 
to  the  exceeding  satisfaction  of  all  hands.  A  crack  in 
the  floe  took  place  between  us  and  the  Rescue,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  thereafter,  the  whole  immense  field  in 
which  we  had  been  imbedded  for  so  many  months, 
was  rent  in  all  directions,  leaving  not  a  piece  of  100 
yards  in  diameter.  The  rupture  was  not  accompanied 
with  any  noise.  The  Rescue  was  entirely  liberated, 
the  Advance  only  partially.  The  ice  in  which  her  after 
part  was  imbedded,  still  adhered  to  her  from  the  main 
chains  aft,  keeping  her  stern  elevated  in  its  misightly 
position.  The  pack,  (as  it  may  now  be  called,)  became 
quite  loose,  and  Ijut  for  our  pertinacious  friend  acting 
as  an  immense  drag  upon  us,  we  might  have  made 
some  headway  in  any  desired  direction.  All  our  eftbrts 
were  now  turned  to  getting  rid  of  it.  With  saws,  axes, 
and  crowbars,  the  i)eoi)le  went  to  work  with  a  right 
good  will,  and  after  hard  labor  for  48  hours  succeeded. 
The  vessel  was  again  afloat,  and  she  righted.  The  joy 
of  all  hands  vented  itself  spontaneously  in  three  hearty 
cheers.  The  after  part  of  tlie  false  keel  was  gone,  be- 
ing carried  away  by  the  ice.  The  loss  of  it,  however, 
I  was  glad  to  perceive,  did  not  materially  affect  the 
sailing  or  working  qualities  of  the  vessel.  The  rudders 
were  shijDped,  and  we  were  once  more  ready  to  move, 
as  efficient  as  on  the  day  we  left  New  York. 

"Steering  to  the  S.  E.  and  working  slowly  through  the 
loose  but  heavy  pack,  on  the  9th  we  parted  from  the 
Rescue  in  a  dense  fog,  she  taking  a  different  lead  from 
the  one  the  Advance  was  pursuing." 


th  pleasant 
altogether 
morning  a 
oe.  I  was 
)W  drifts  as 


i  ( 


i  I 


i 


394  pllookess  of  arctic  discovert. 

Latest  Accounts  —  Ground  for  Hope. 

Mr.  Wm.  Penny,  of  Aberdeen,  states  in  a  letter  to 
the  Times,  that  Capt.  Martin,  who,  when  cominaiidiiig 
the  whaler  Enterprise,  in  1845,  was  the  last  ])ersou  to 
communicate  with  Sir.  J.  Franklin,  has  just  int'oi-ined 
him  that  the  Enterprise  was  alongside  the  Erehus,  in 
Melville  Bay,  and  Sir  John  Franklin  invited  him, 
(Capt.  Martin,)  to  dine  with  him,  which  the  hitter  de- 
clined doing,  as  the  wind  was  fair  to  go  south.  Sir 
John,  while  conversing  with  Capt.  Martin,  tuld  him 
that  he  had  live  years'  provisions,  which  he  could 
make  last  seven,  and  his  peo]>le  were  busily  engaged 
in  salting  down  birds,  of  which  they  had  several  casks 
full  already,  and  twelve  men  were  out  sliooting  more. 
"To  see  such  determination  and  foresight,"  observes 
Mr.  Penny,  "at  that  early  period,  is  really  wonderful, 
and  must  give  us  the  greatest  hopes."  Mr.  Penny 
says  that  Capt.  Martin  is  a  man  of  fortune,  and  of  the 
strictest  integrity. 

The  following  is  the  deposition  of  Capt.  Martin,  just 
received  in  the  London  Times,  of  Jan.  1,  1852,  con- 
taining the  facts  above  alluded  to : 

Robert  Martin,  now  master  and  commander  of  the 
wlialeship  Litrepid,  of  Peterhead,  solemnly  and  sin- 
cerely declares  that  on  the  22d  day  of  July,  1845,  when 
in  command  of  the  whale  ship  Enterprise,  of  Peter- 
head, in  lat.  To'^  10',  long.  66°  W.,  calm  weather,  and 
towing,  the  Erebus  and  Terror  were  in  company.  These 
ships  were  alongside  the  Enterprise  for  about  tlfreen 
minutes.  The  declarant  conversed  with  Sir  John 
rra.?klin,  and  Mr.  Reid,  his  ice-master.  The  conver- 
sation lasted  all  the  time  the  ships  were  close.  That 
Sir  John,  in  answer  to  a  question  by  the  declarant  if 
he  had  a  good  supply  of  provisions,  and  how  long  he 
expected  them  to  last,  stated  that  he  had  provisions 
for  five  years,  and  if  it  were  necessary  he  conld  "make 
them  spin  out  seven  years ;"  and  he  said  further,  tiui!; 
he  would  lose  no  opportunity  of  killing  birds,  and 
whatever  else  was  useful  tliat  came  in  the  way,  to  keep 


letter  to 
iiiaiuiing 
person  to 
iiit'onned 
rel)us,  ill 
ted  liini, 
1  utter  de- 
ntil. Sir 
told  him 
he  could 

engajifed 
ii'id  casks 
nj;  more. 

observes 
wonderful, 
r.  Penny 
md  of  the 

irtin,  just 
852,  con- 

er  of  the 

and  sin- 

145,  when 

of  Peter- 

her,  and 

These 

it  fifteen 

Sir  John 

3  conver- 

That 

ilarant  if 

Ion  Of  he 

rovisions 

d  "make 

lior,  tiia!; 

rdi*.  and 

,  to  keep 


LATEST   ACCOUNTS. 


305 


up  their  stock,  and  that  he  had  plenty  of  powder  and 
shot  for  the  purpose.  That  Sir  John  also  stated  that 
he  had  already  several  casks  of  birds  salted,  and  had 
then  two  shooting  parties  out  —  one  from  each  ship. 
The  birds  were  very  numerous  ;  many  would  fall  at  a 
single  shot,  and  the  declarant  has  himself  killed  forty 
at  a  shot  with  white  pease.  That  the  birds  are  very 
agreeable  food,  are  in  taste  and  size  somewhat  like 
young  pigeons,  and  are  called  by  the  sailors  "  rotges." 

That  on  the  2Gth  or  28th  of  said  month  of  July,  two 
parties  of  Sir  John's  officers,  who  had  been  out  shoot- 
ing, dined  with  the  declarant  on  board  the  Enterprise. 
There  was  a  boat  with  six  from  each  ship.  Their  con- 
versation was  to  the  same  effect  as  Sir  John's.  They 
spoke  of  expecting  to  be  absent  four  or  five,  or  per- 
haps six  years.  These  officers  also  said  that  the  ships 
would  winter  where  they  could  find  a  convenient  place, 
and  in  spring  push  on  as  far  as  possible,  and  so  on 
year  after  year,  as  the  determination  was  to  push  on 
as  far  as  practicable. 

That  on  the  following  day,  an  invitation  was  brought 
to  the  declarant,  verbally,  to  dine  with  Sir  John,  but 
the  wind  shifted,  and  the  Enterprise  having  cut  through 
the  ice  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  the  declarant  was 
obliged  to  decline  the  invitation.  That  he  saw  the 
Erebus  and  Terror  for  two  days  longer;  they  were 
still  lying  at  an  iceberg,  and  the  Enterprise  was  mov- 
ing slowly  down  the  country.  That  so  numerous  were 
the  birds  mentioned,  and  so  favorable  was  the  weather 
for  shooting  them,  that  a  very  large  number  must  have 
been  secured  during  the  time  the  declarant  was  in 
eight  of  the  two  ships.  The  Prince  of  Wales  whaler 
vvivs  also  within  sight  during  the  most  of  the  time. 
That  from  the  state  of  the  wind  and  weather  for  a  pe- 
riod of  10  days,"  during  part  of  which  the  declarant 
•vas  not  in  sight  of  the  two  ships,  the  best  opportunity 
vas  afforded  fcr  securing  the  birds.  That  the  birds 
described  are  not  to  be  found  at  all  places  on  the  fish- 
inc:  ground  during  tlio  whaling  POMJ^on,  l^nt  are  met 
with  in  vast  numbers  evci'v  season  on  certain  feeding 


1 


'•■■'*4i' 


'*'W*2«-.:r-«^- 


31)0 


rKOORESa  OF  ABCTIO  DISCOVERY. 


banks  and  places  for  brooding,  and  it  appeared  at  tljo 
time  by  the  dechirant  to  bo  a  most  fortunate  circum- 
stance that  the  Erebus  and  Terror  had  fallen  in  with 
80  many  birds,  and  that  the  state  of  the  weather  was 
so  favorable  for  securing  large  numberr  of  them.  The 
declarant  has  himself  had  a  supply  of  the  same  de- 
scription of  birds,  which  kept  Iresh  and  good  during 
three  months,  at  Davis'  Strait,  and  the  last  were  as 
good  as  the  first  of  them. 

Which  declaration,  above  written,  is  now  made 
conscientiously,  believing  the  same  to  be  true. 

Robert  Martin. 

Declared,  December,  29th,  1851,  before 

R.  Gkatii,  Provost  of  Poterhead. 

From  this  it  would  appear  that  it  is  not  impossible, 
perhaps  not  improbable,  that  Sir  John  Fianklin  may 
yet  make  his  appearance,  coming  down  from  those  ice- 
bound regions  bringing  with  him  his  noble  shi;  3  and 
their  daring  crews,  and  giving  joy  to  thousands  upon 
thousands  who  are  watching  with  intense  interest  the 
unraveling  of  the  mystery  of  hw  absence,  and  espe- 
cially bringing  joy  inexpressible  to  the  heart  of  that 
noble  lady,  with  which  thousands  of  hearts  throughout 
the  civilized  world  beat  in  sympathy. 


r^fLT. 


t       * 


^5 


1  at  tlio 
ciicuin- 
in  witli 
ler  waa 
1.  Tho 
me  (le- 
dui'ing 
i^ere  us 


)i 


mado 

ITIN. 

ead. 

ssiblo, 
1  may. 
se  ice- 

3  and 
I  upon 
St  the 

espe- 
f  that 
ghout 


ntj. 


r 


